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Glacier National Park: Hiking the Apgar Lookout Trail

In this post, I review the Apgar Lookout Trail at Glacier National Park, and discuss our failure to reach the summit.

Author’s Note: Since we visited Glacier in 2016, the Park Service has implemented a complex, ticket system for visiting the park in the summer. To be honest, I can’t make much sense of it as it involves multiple tickets being required to enjoy various activities around the park. For more information on this system, visit the park website and/or contact the park office.

Also, Just a word of warning, as this is a National Park, no dogs are allowed on any trails within the park (exceptions for Service Animals). They are only permitted in the campgrounds and parking lots.**

Otherwise known as the “Soul-Crushing Switchbacks Trail” 😮–thank you Mr. Trekker, for that!–the Apgar Lookout Trail traverses Apgar Mountain to the fire tower near the peak, and offers views of Lake McDonald, in Glacier National Park.

Where is the Apgar Lookout Trail?

The easiest way to reach the trailhead is from the West Glacier entrance on the west side of the park. Shortly after passing through the West Glacier entrance gate a road branches off to the left with signs for the Glacier Institute, a horse corral, and the Apgar Lookout Trail. At the next intersection, you’ll turn right towards the horse corral, then continue following the signs to the left which take you to an unpaved dirt road and the trailhead.

Hiking on the Apgar Lookout Trail

This trek was rough! The trail is interesting because it isn’t that long (only about seven miles round trip); it’s also fairly wide (enough so that two people can walk side-by-side in some cases), and it’s smooth (there aren’t many roots/rocks to trip you up). The first 3/4 of a mile is fairly flat but then the elevation gain begins. You gain almost 2000 feet of elevation in about three miles over a series of three, LONG switchbacks.

Related posts: Going to the Sun Road at Glacier National Park; Swiftcurrent Trail at Glacier National Park and 5 Other “Don’t Miss” Sites!; 5 Things you Don’t Want to Miss at Glacier National Park; Gunsight Pass Trail, Glacier National Park

We didn’t fully appreciate just how steep it was on the way up, it was the difficulty in keeping our balance on the way down that clued us in. Part of what makes it so difficult is that almost the entire trail runs through a burn scar left by a forest fire from several years ago; so it is completely exposed to the sun.

We got a late start (about 2 pm as we made the attempt shortly after arriving at the park) and it was hot and fairly humid that day (about 85 degrees). I should also note my body does not tolerate heat well. There’s a reason why I rejoiced in our move to the cool Northern Plains after living in the steamy South!

The lack of shade-producing foliage does offer one advantage…this trail allows for incredible views of the surrounding Flathead River Valley!

If you make it to the top, we were told the views of Lake McDonald bordered by the park’s mountains to the north are beautiful. (click here for the webcam view from the summit of Apgar Mountain.)

In my semi-delirious state, I half-heartedly named this “the Butterfly Trail” for the numerous (and lovely) flying insects we stirred up on our trek.

As I’ve mentioned in other posts for this park, beware of bears on this trail. We did not see any but some hikers that were exiting the trail as we were starting out did. Also, three days later, a mountain biker (and park ranger) was tragically killed when he surprised a grizzly on a bike path about six miles from this very trail (outside the boundaries of the park).

A dirt path through knee-high, pine trees with green hills in the background. — The trail–the view is looking upward near the beginning of the LONG climb, this is essentially what the entire trail looks like.

Know How Hard to Push Yourself When Hiking

I’m going to get on my soapbox a bit regarding an important safety tip: KNOW YOUR LIMITS in the outdoors! There is a fine line between pushing yourself to extend your stamina and increase your strength…and putting yourself into a dangerous/potentially deadly situation.

There are some well-known symptoms of exhaustion, dehydration, and heat stress but it also helps to know your body. This takes time and experience to learn what signals your body gives when it’s being stressed and what those signals mean.

As much as it pains my pride to admit it…we didn’t make it to the top of this trail. We decided to turn around about a quarter of the way through the 3rd switchback when the “bent-double” stomach cramps and nausea hit me. I’ve learned from past experience that this is a major sign of dehydration for myself and I didn’t want to push things too far.

Always remember, just because you get to the top, that’s only halfway, you still have to get back down and sometimes going downhill can be more difficult. Exhaustion combined with the pull of gravity on the return trip can prove disastrous–I’ve worn scrapes and bruises resulting from stumbles caused by this dastardly combination on more than one occasion.

So don’t spend all your energy on only half the trail or you may find you’re unable to complete the most important half…getting home!

It’s also important to note, for the benefit of your wallet, that some parks/states require you to pay for at least a portion of the cost involved in a Search and Rescue operation if one is deemed necessary. They’ll come to get you, but the financial toll may remain long after the physical injuries have long since healed. If concern for your own body isn’t enough to convince you to turn back, perhaps concern for your wallet will be.

View down a mountain from above. Green grass and tree-covered mountains in the distance. — The view–the Flathead River Valley from near the middle of one of the switchbacks, you can see how far we’d come from the trail below us

Don’t be Afraid to Turn Back when Hiking

It’s difficult to admit we failed on this attempt, but I firmly believe we made the right decision in turning back. It’s easy to get “Summit Fever”, especially when you go into a situation expecting to succeed. The length of this trail was well within our average hiking range and it was fairly easy, technically speaking, so turning back definitely caused some wounded pride.

Don’t be afraid to admit you’ve bitten off more than you can chew though. A report from the years 2003 – 2006 found that 23% of Search and Rescue incidents included people in their 20’s and 66.3% of the victims were male. So the takeaway lesson is, that young males–the ones usually thought of as being the most healthy, strong, and capable–are also the ones most likely to run into trouble. If they struggle, the rest of us shouldn’t feel bad admitting we struggle too!

So guys, take note…find a hiking partner who wimps out before you do so you can turn back and still save face. 😉 I should note, that the cramps relented within minutes once I stopped climbing, found some shade, got some sustenance in me (food and drink), and cooled down.

If you’re looking for a challenging hike on your next trip to Glacier National Park, check out the Apgar Lookout Trail!

Have you attempted these infamous switchbacks? What was your experience like? Let me know in the comments!

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South Rim and Uncle Tom’s Trails, Yellowstone National Park

In this post I review Uncle Tom’s and the South Rim Trails, and their views of the Upper and Lower Falls, at Yellowstone National Park.

**Author’s note: Just a word of warning, as this is a National Park, no dogs are allowed on any trails (exceptions for Service Animals). They are only permitted in the campgrounds and parking lots.**

Several years ago, in June, we visited Yellowstone National Park with the Trekker In-Laws. As it was the first time there for all of us we didn’t get much hiking in, we just went full-blown tourist and hit all the “must-see” sights. But Mr. Trekker and I did get to do two very cool, very accessible hikes, the South Rim and Uncle Tom’s trails, which allow amazing views of Yellowstone’s Upper and Lower Falls.

The Trekkers visited during a time of snowmelt so some of the waterfalls were running especially high at the time.

Author’s Note: Not long after writing this post the Uncle Tom’s Trail was permanently closed due to safety concerns and maintenance costs. Unfortunately, future visitors to the park will not have the opportunity to enjoy these cool sites, so I will leave info on this trail up to allow others to experience what we saw. I feel very fortunate that we were able to see these views before they were forever altered.

The Yellowstone River:

Where are the South Rim and Uncle Tom’s Trails?

The trails are located in the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone on the South Rim. You access the South Rim Trail from the Wapiti Lake Trailhead, which then joins the Uncle Tom Trail. The trails encompass gorgeous views of both the Upper and Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River. (Only the Lower Falls was visible from the Uncle Tom Trail). The terminus of both of these routes is Point Sublime near Artist Point.

Yellowstone’s Upper Falls

Yellowstone’s Lower Falls

What are the hikes to view Yellowstone’s Upper and Lower Falls like?

Our hike began on the South Rim Trail. In a welcome contrast to the rest of the park, we saw relatively few fellow hikers even though this portion of the trail is easily accessed and has little elevation gain. I highly recommend this peaceful hike with its many beautiful views of the two falls; though as is good practice when hiking throughout the park, always be aware of the wildlife that may be sharing the trail with you (we had no bear encounters on our hike but heard stories of hikers who did).

We had more company on the Uncle Tom Trail as it was more popular. It was named for H.F. Richardson, or Uncle Tom, as was his nickname. In the late 19th Century he began guiding tourists into the Canyon to view the waterfalls and cross the river. At that time the trail consisted of numerous ropes and rope ladders that visitors had to negotiate. Fortunately on our hike, one only had to manage a hefty climb (300+ steps!) on a metal staircase bolted into the rock on the side of the canyon.

As I’ve mentioned plenty of times on this blog, I harbor a hefty case of acrophobia, or fear of heights. I tend to get vertigo and “freeze” when confronted with a lack of earth in front of me–an interesting condition for someone who enjoys hiking in high places regularly. 😝

Due to this, I was a little nervous upon venturing onto the Uncle Tom Trail as I knew the steps bolted into the side of the canyon were composed of perforated steel. That’s right, not only were you hanging off the side of a cliff but as you descended you were awarded with a view of the gaping chasm yawning below you!…or so I thought. In truth, the canyon wall was very rocky and the steps lingered over rock ledges the entire way. Though the steps did hang off the side of the wall and span a chasm, the rock floor you saw was never more than 20 or 30 feet below your feet. To my surprise, I found the descent surprisingly bearable.

The Stairs that made up Uncle Tom’s Trail:

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

I’ve been to the “real” Grand Canyon, and while it’s got an exquisite beauty all its own, I think the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone surpasses that splendor in some ways and truly lives up to its name. This canyon is far smaller and more narrow than its big brother to the south, with rock colors that vary between yellows and reds contrasted with the deep greens of the pine trees on the rim. There were also numerous patches of snow still remaining in late June.

So, if you’re looking to stretch your legs a little on your next trip to Yellowstone and want amazing views of the Upper and Lower Falls, check out the South Rim Trail!

Have you hiked these trails? Let me know what you thought of them in the comments!

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Dugout Gulch Botanical Trail (#77)

In this post, I review the Dugout Gulch Botanical trail south of Beulah, WY.

The Dugout Gulch Botanical Trail is a nine-mile loop (4.6 mi out to the loop and back, then 4.4 for the actual loop). It is located in the Wyoming Black Hills.

We didn’t complete the entire route as it started thundering–when your hiking partner is a meteorologist, you defer to his expertise on these things. 😇

Where is the Dugout Gulch Botanical Trail?

The trail is situated near Ranch A, south of Beulah, Wyoming. Take exit 205 off of I-90 (it is the first exit as you come into Wyoming). Then take Forest Road 863, south, for about six miles to the trailhead. (This is an easy, one-hour trip from Rapid City.) As you near the end of the drive you’re rewarded with a gorgeous expanse of red sandstone on the western side of the Black Hills.

What is the Dugout Gulch Botanical Trail like?

The trail was secluded and free of road noise. It has a gentle ascent the entire way to the loop but the slope is gradual. The path is fairly root/rock-free so overall it’s not strenuous. It’s well-marked and very visible as it fluctuates between a single track and a path that’s large enough for several people to walk side-by-side; much of it follows old forest roads.

The Dugout Gulch Botanical Trail begins in lush undergrowth surrounded by leafy trees (it was warm and humid on Memorial Day Weekend) and eventually gives way to more open pine forest as you increase in elevation. This contrast equates to a unique change in ecosystems as you travel up the gulch.

The path is fairly narrow to start so be watchful for others sharing the trail. This also goes for the flora/fauna you may encounter–specifically snakes and poison ivy.

I won’t comment on the GIANT spider we saw sunbathing on the rocks but we did enjoy a close encounter with a friendly bull snake on this particular hike.

As the thunder started before we reached the top I can’t speak for the full sights the trail offers but the views of the canyon walls are gorgeous (especially on the return trip). The variance in rock color from slate gray to reddish-orange, as your eyes travel up the rock face, is incredible. On much of the trail, you’re accompanied by a bubbling brook, and this along with constant bird chatter, add aesthetic delight to the hike.

We chose to hike this particular day but the trail could be amenable for other activities as well. Once you reach the loop the wide, gradual slope would make for an enjoyable bike ride and the lack of obstacles on the path would present great snowshoeing or cross-country skiing opportunities in the winter months.

My verdict: it’s not the most beautiful trail I’ve ever seen but the views of the canyon walls, the peaceful solitude, and the ease of the path make for an enjoyable afternoon.

A picture of our new friend is below: 😊

A large, yellow and black snake blends in with the brown and green grass and brown pine needles on the forest floor.