Poet’s Table, Black Hills of South Dakota

I discuss our various attempts to discover this “secret” Black Hills landmark.

 

After only two tries, the Trekkers were finally able to locate Poet’s Table!  (As it turned out, we almost reached it the first time, and probably would have, had it not been for the mist blanketing everything and the fog hiding the site from view).  

If you’re looking for specific instructions on finding this awesome spot…keep looking.  I won’t give any details that can’t already be found on Google.  Part of the fun is in the search! (I will say this much if you think you’re close…make sure you look up!)

But if you’re looking for hints to help with your search…keep scrolling! 😁

Where is Poet’s Table

Poet’s Table is in the Black Hills, of course! 😉

Our first attempt to find Poet’s Table was in early June on a particularly foggy day–which can be a really cool time to hike in this area.  It’s eerily beautiful to see the rock outcrops and spires looming out of the mist. 

Our second attempt was a few years later, also in June, and we were actually able to help some visitors from Illinois locate the spot.  They were grateful for our assistance as they were eager to ferret out this iconic, Black Hills location.

The only major clue I’ll give you is that this “secret” spot is within Custer State Park.  There are no signs or trail markers so you’re going to have to put your sleuthing hat on to find Poet’s Table.  The trail is unmarked and is located about a half-mile from the Little Devil’s Tower trailhead, which is about half a mile from Sylvan Lake, on Route 87.  It is also not far from the scenic Cathedral Spires Trail.  

After about a 1/2 mile hike down the Little Devil’s Tower trail and crossing a footbridge, you will see a fallen log on your right.  On your left is a rather large, well-trodden path going off to your left, heading uphill, traversing a bit of a canyon.  Take this path.  

As you trek this new, unmarked trail, within a few minutes you’ll see another, smaller, also well-trodden trail heading off to the left, toward more towering granite summits.  Take this left…

…this is where my directions end, the rest is up to you!

A mountain landscape with trees and rocks in the foreground. A meadow and more mountains are in the background
The view from Poet’s Table

Poet’s Table Can be Hard to Find

Don’t get discouraged if you don’t find the site on your first attempt (or even your 3rd!)  Just enjoy the hike, the views, and the beauty of the natural world that surrounds you.  We found some pretty nifty spots in the area even when we failed to find the actual Poet’s Table.  Good luck, have fun, and happy hunting!

Note:  There are several other unmarked trails traversing gulleys and canyons in this area.  They don’t “go anywhere” per se, but I encourage you to investigate them.  This is a pretty amazing area that you’ll have largely to yourself most any time of year (though summer is the busiest time).  There are lovely canyons, picturesque granite outcroppings, and the occasional small waterfall to hunt if you’re there during a wetter period of the year.  

Trails in this area aren’t overly long but they can get rather steep so watch your footing, especially in wet, muddy, snowy, or icy conditions.  The trail is in the Harney Range, which is also one of the higher elevations in the Black Hills (over 6000 ft), so flat-landers should take heed. 😉  Another nice thing about the trails being relatively short, most are half-day hikes or less (though you can, obviously, spend as much time in this area as your heart desires.)  You won’t get bored!

Thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker for this great shot of Poet’s Table!

Green table, chairs and cabinet sitting on a rock slab backed by tall rock. Some people are taking pictures.
Poet’s Table! (and our new friends from Illinois. 😉)

**A few months after our trip, this iconic landmark was vandalized. Fortunately, it has been reset. You can read my feelings about that event here.

Have you ever been to Poet’s Table (or got lost trying to find it? Tell me about your experience in the comments!)

 

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A mountain landscape with trees and rocks in the foreground. A meadow and more mountains are in the background. Pin reads, "Poet's Table, Black Hills of South Dakota"

 

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Hike at Gay City State Park in Connecticut

In this post, I review a wonderful State Park in Connecticut.

 

I’m going to take a diversion from my typical “out West” posts to write about a park we used to enjoy in New England when the Trekker In-Laws lived there.  Gay City State Park is located in Hebron, Connecticut.  It’s easily accessible from, I-384, Route 6, or Route 2 off of Route 85, just follow the signs.

Gay City Ghost Town in Connecticut

The park actually encompasses an old ghost town, though few remnants remain other than the foundation from the old mill.  The town was originally known as Factory Hollow, though with many of its inhabitants sharing the last name of Gay it was renamed to Gay City upon its sale to the state. 

There is also an aged cemetery on-site, where you can still read the inscriptions on some of the gravestones.  Please be respectful of this historic location and the final resting place for these individuals.

What you will see at Gay City State Park

The park offers miles of hiking trails (which are easily convertible to cross-country ski and snowshoe trails in the winter months); a small, scenic lake; a beach, a campground, picnic and swimming areas, and opportunities for a host of other activities.  The trails also connect to others outside the park boundaries that venture into other local, recreation areas.  For further info, you can visit the website.

Gay City State Park is fairly ordinary compared to those we’ve visited in the Western US, but it’s a place we always enjoyed and tried to visit whenever we were in the area. 

The trails are easy in difficulty, wide, and fairly free of roots and rocks.  None are much longer than five miles–although you can combine various trails for longer treks-so they’re ideal for families. 

Your trek takes you on a stroll through an old forest comprised of mostly deciduous trees dressed in the leafy clothes of the current season.  Only the sound of the babbling brook that parallels much of the trail, the wind in the trees, and the call of the birds flying overhead accompany you.  

The area is highlighted by the fieldstone walls that are iconic in the New England countryside.  It’s an opportune place to enjoy the lovely fall colors this region is famous for.  We usually visited in early winter, enveloped in the tranquil “swish, swish, CRUNCH” of fallen leaves underfoot, from which a nutty smell wafts with each step.

The most recent time we were there was lovely!  It was cold (around 18 degrees), but it was sunny, with little wind.  As it was the first day in about five that we had seen the sun, we had just recently driven 1800 miles across the country and we had countless, delicious holiday meals weighing us down, it was nice to be able to get out and stretch our legs a bit. 

There was just enough snow to make the scenery beautiful, but, as it was powdery, nothing more than hiking boots was needed to trudge through.  I was impressed by how many hearty souls we saw out with us, including cross-country skiers and fellow hikers.

Below are a few pics from our trek.  Thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker for a few of these!

A shallow creek meanders through leafless trees, all under a clear, blue sky. A downed tree covered in light snow lies across the creek

A white, snowy expanse of a frozen lake is surrounded by leafless trees. Long shadows of trees and two people cover the lake surface.
Shadow Trekkers!

If you’re looking for a fun, outdoor activity in central Connecticut, check out Gay City State Park! 

Have you visited Gay City?  Tell me about it in the comments!

 

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3 pictures: 1) A shallow creek meanders through leafless trees, all under a clear, blue sky. A downed tree covered in light snow lies across the creek; 2) A white, snowy expanse of a frozen lake is surrounded by leafless trees. Long shadows of trees and two people cover the lake surface; 3) A shallow creek dotted with large rocks meanders through leafless trees, all under a clear, blue sky. Pin reads, "Hike Gay City State Park"

 

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West Tensleep Trail, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming

The Big Horn National Forest, in Wyoming, is a wonderful place to enjoy some secluded time in the woods.

 

The Trekkers LOVE to visit the Bighorn Mountains, in northeastern Wyoming.  Each time we go to this area I re-discover my love for them all over again!  I enjoy that mountain range almost as much as the Rockies.  This is probably because they are very similar with a few wonderful exceptions:  there are fewer people in the Bighorns and the Wyoming wilderness is only a few hours from the Black Hills–rather than the 6 to 8-hour drive to the Rockies.  Traffic is much better too!  😉

The weather in this area (during the warmer months, at least) is usually comprised of blue skies, warm temps, and clear, crisp evenings.  Conditions can change fast though!  The Trekkers have a tradition of camping in the Bighorns over Labor Day Weekend and it isn’t unusual for this area to receive its first significant snowstorm of the year a scant week or so later. 

On this particular visit, we came to hike the West Ten Sleep trail to Mirror Lake. The only downside for this trip was lingering smoke from wildfires in Montana.  When we arrived in Buffalo, Wyoming, on Friday evening, you could barely make out the mountains through the smoky haze. 

If you’ve never been there, Buffalo is basically nestled into the eastern base of the Bighorns, similar to how Rapid City is nestled into the eastern base of the Black Hills.  If you’ve never been to either locale, well, let’s just say you normally can’t miss the mountains, they’re like, right there!  😜  Also, you need to plan a visit!!!

Where is the West Tensleep Trailhead?

You will find the trailhead at the end of Route 27 North.  The road basically ends at West Tensleep Lake and the trail continues along the Tensleep Creek from there.  Route 27 branches off of US 16 just east of the B-E-A-Utiful Tensleep Canyon and just west of Meadowlark Lake and the Meadowlark Ski Lodge.

You should note that Route 27 is often closed to regular vehicles during the snowy season, which is lengthy in this part of the country, as it becomes a snowmobile trail.  Other times of the year this dirt road can become rugged (in snowy or muddy conditions, even if it’s open) and a 4WD or high-clearance AWD vehicle may be able to handle it better.

Hiking the West Tensleep Trail to Mirror Lake

That Saturday dawned clear and beautiful–we were thankful for a reprieve from the smoke that day–so we hiked West Tensleep Trail (Trail #65) to Mirror Lake.  This trail can go as far as Twin Lakes, though that is a 12-mile hike in each direction.  We opted to stop at Mirror Lake (at about the halfway point), but the full trail would be ideal for an overnight backpacking trip.  This moderate trek is beautiful and accented with stream crossings, sprawling meadows, and a few waterfall views.  It is well-marked and wide in most places and not overly difficult.  What makes it strenuous at times is the altitude (it reaches close to 10,000 feet in places) though the views of the surrounding summits are worth it!

Related posts: Lake Helen, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming; Camping in the Bighorns; Bighorn Medicine Wheel in Wyoming; 4 Don’t Miss Sites in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming

The gurgling creek accompanies you most of the way creating an iconic, mountain experience.  The neighboring stream and the craggy peaks towering nearby especially reminded me of hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park. 

A stream runs through a forest
West Tensleep Trail

A creek meanders through a narrow meadow with pine trees lining both sides

A trail meanders through a rocky meadow. A large, rocky mountain can be seen in the background.

Mirror Lake!

Mirror Lake is a beautiful, alpine lake that mirrors the sky and adjacent cliffs when calm (likely where it gets its name!) and makes a prime lunch spot before turning back or continuing on to Twin Lakes.  Usually, we enjoy peaceful solitude in this region, but this time it was quite “crowded” (we saw 5 – 10 other groups on the same trail–that’s crowded in the Bighorns!)  Apparently, we weren’t the only ones looking to escape the 90-degree heat of the lower elevations that weekend!

A woman sits looking out over the dark, smooth water of Mirror Lake surrounded by forest. A tree-covered mountainside is in the background.
Mirror Lake
Mr. Trekker stands on a cliff edge with his back to us, looking out over the mountain vista. Tree-covered mountain slopes are in the background.
Just a man and his mountains

Island Park Campground, Bighorn Mountains

We stayed at the Island Park campground and our campsite was located on the fringe of the national forest, overlooking a marshy, grassy valley.

Don’t be afraid of the lesser-developed national forest campgrounds.  They are spectacular, though you do need a tolerance for “roughing it” a bit if you’re tent camping (while potable water is often available in the “on” season, pit toilets are regularly all that is offered).  If you’ve got an RV this may not be an issue (and the “developed” campgrounds can often accommodate RVs).  These sites are usually more off the beaten path so they tend to be quieter, more enjoyable, and may provide more wildlife viewing opportunities.

Moose in the Bighorns!

An added bonus that made this weekend laudable was the “visitors” we received each evening (and most mornings).  If you’ll recall, in a previous post, I mentioned State Forest State Park in north-central Colorado had the best moose-viewing opportunities we’d ever seen…until this trip! 😁  A single cow and another momma and her baby visited us at least once a day the whole weekend.  One evening a large bull also graced us with his presence. 

This campground was the perfect place to view moose as they happily gorged on the willow branches that dotted the boundary.  We named them Maggie, Molly, Matilda, and Marvin (they’re moose, obviously all their names have to start with “m”! 😉)  Marvin kept his distance but the three ladies ventured right up near the campsites if people were quiet enough and gave them their space.  It was an incredibly beautiful, (dare I say tranquil?) site to behold.

A cow and baby moose walk through a meadow with a stream running through it. The forest creates a backdrop.
Maggie and Molly

I’ve always been fascinated by moose, perhaps because they’re one of the only critters that aren’t native to the various regions I’ve lived in.  They’re slightly odd-looking creatures (though cute too), and while they seem like they would be awkward clodhoppers 😂, with their large bodies –especially the males–they’re actually quite graceful when they run through wetlands or swim across streams.  They seem like big cows but be warned, they ARE wild animals that can be quite dangerous and aggressive if provoked (especially the mothers protecting their babies or the males during the rutting season).  Usually, if you leave them alone and give them the respect they deserve, they’ll offer you the same consideration.

Note: Moose are NOT afraid of dogs and they have been known to kill dogs. PLEASE, keep your dogs leashed and fully under control in Moose Country. (Also, the Forest Service can and will ticket you for “harassing wildlife” if they feel you’re allowing your dogs to bother the moose.  Always remember, this is at the ranger’s discretion, it doesn’t matter if you agree that harassment was occurring or not… 

A cow moose is seen eating willows just a few feet from a tent!
Oh, hello! (you can see how close she got to the campground!)

West Tensleep Lake

Sunday we canoed West Tensleep Lake surrounded by the imposing peaks of the Cloud Peak Wilderness (and only slightly marred by lingering smoke).  This is a small lake but it’s no-wake so it’s ideal for canoeing, kayaking, and wake-boarding (just give your fellow fishermen space to enjoy their activities, as well.) 

The dark, rippling waters of West Tensleep Lake with rocky mountains looming through the haze in the background
West Tensleep Lake, you can see the Cloud Peak Wilderness area looming through the smoky haze

We also attempted to reach East Tensleep Lake via Forest Road 430.  While Mr. Trekker had fun practicing his 4×4-ing skills we decided the road was a little more than we wanted to tackle that day so we only traveled about halfway.  We enjoyed beautiful views throughout, however. (Check out this post for info on our return trip to that lake!) 

A creek runs through a meadow scattered with trees. Mountains can be seen looming through the haze in the background.
Off Forest Road 430

The road parallels Tensleep Creek which offers countless fishing opportunities.  It also crosses several expansive meadows providing prime disperse-camping opportunities (this is national forestland so dispersed camping is allowed, just follow all local regulations pertaining to the use of fires).  There are also ample opportunities for on and off-trail hiking.

Busy Bee Cafe, Buffalo, Wyoming

Monday morning dawned smoky once again as we packed up to head for home.  We ended our trip by enjoying a well-earned breakfast at one of our favorite local haunts, the Busy Bee Cafe in Buffalo!  This small diner was thrust into the spotlight thanks to Craig Johnson’s Longmire series that is based in this general area (and its reputation is warranted).

Below are some more pictures from our wonderful weekend (as always thanks to Mr. Trekker for a few of these):

IMG_2512
Smoky sunrise
IMG_2494
Bridge over Tensleep Creek

IMG_2493

Have you hiked the West Tensleep Trail, or visited Mirror or West Tensleep Lakes?  Tell me about your experiences in the comments!

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3 pictures: 1) A creek meanders through a narrow meadow with pine trees lining both sides; 2) The dark waters of West Tensleep Lake with rocky mountains speckled with pine trees in the background; 3) A trail meanders through a rocky meadow. A large, rocky mountain can be seen in the background. Pin reads, Take a Hike on the West Tensleep Trail, Bighorn Mountains"

 

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Driving the Medano Creek Road at Great Sand Dunes National Park

In this post, I review a 4×4 driving class the Trekkers took and our adventure at Great Sand Dunes National Park.

 

Author’s note:  In a previous post regarding one of our epic, summer road trips, I mentioned we canceled plans at this locale due to me falling ill.  I had originally intended this adventure as a present for Mr. Trekker for achieving Tenure, but, since our plans got changed, it ended up being an anniversary trip instead. 

The Great Sand Dunes National Park is located in south-central Colorado, near the small town of Saguache.  The park is nestled among the beautiful Sangre de Cristo Mountains in the San Luis Valley. 

We were able to reschedule our trip for the fall (which consequently is a much prettier time to visit that area due to leaf colors.  It’s also less busy and much cooler, all pluses in the Trekker book! Ya’ll know how I LOVE the heat! 😓

Unbeknownst to us, when we had originally planned to visit, in early June, is one of the busiest times at the park.  This is when the creek runs high due to snowmelt in the mountains.

The Great Sand Dunes are situated in a GORGEOUS location!

We woke up the first morning surrounded by a 360-degree view of the rounded peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.  Gorgeous pictures painted the walls of the rental house, reflecting the spectacular scenery found in the surrounding area. 

I’ve waxed lyrical about our love for Air B&B’s before.  This choice was a simple, rustic old farmhouse that had been renovated.  The kitchen was well-stocked with the cooking equipment/utensils you might need and beautiful cabinetry adorned the walls.  The home offered plenty of room for a family to sleep and is centrally located in the San Luis Valley, making an ideal base camp for day treks to the Great Sand Dunes or any hiking, 4×4-ing, or winter sports you want to engage in within the surrounding area.

A small kitchen with charming, wooden cabinets
The adorable kitchen in the rental house
Panoramic view of a reddish sunrise with purple clouds over the dark silhouette of mountains
Sunrise over the Sangre de Cristo range

 

Related post:  Aliens and Sandhill Cranes in the San Luis Valley! 

4×4 trails at Great Sand Dunes National Park

We rented a jeep for the weekend and spent Saturday in a hands-on 4×4 driving class.  We learned proper tire placement, how to navigate various routes (picking the correct line, sticking to the high ground), as well as acquiring safety tips and how to get ourselves out of sticky situations (such as fashioning a winch using a hi-lift jack to get a vehicle out of a bind). 

We then spent Sunday trekking around Great Sand Dunes National Park, driving the Medano Pass Primitive Road, and getting sandblasted on the dunes (it was windy that day!) 

Medano Creek, which you cross numerous times when driving the Primitive Road,  runs fairly low in the fall which made for easier crossings for us novices.  If you want the challenge of higher water crossings early June through summer would be a better time to visit (though there are times in spring when the road is closed due to extremely high water from snowmelt and spring rains.)  Also, as the road is two-way but is only one lane wide, there were times we found it complicated to navigate while leaving room for others to pass.  I can’t imagine how this challenge may be exacerbated in the crowded, summer months.

Pathfinders 4×4

We rented the jeep through Pathfinders 4×4 and its proprietor, Cam Benton, taught the class.  The company offers jeeps for rent as well as jeep tours and 4×4 driving classes.  You can find out more at Pathfinders 4×4

I cannot say enough about Cam, he was incredible!  He was friendly, personable, and a wonderful teacher.  Not only did he allow us to cancel our original reservations inside the 5-day “no cancellations” window, but he also gave us an almost total refund (with the exception of our initial deposit which he then credited back to us when we rescheduled). 

Cam also owns several Air B&B properties.  We had originally reserved a room in his home for that weekend but the week before our arrival he suggested we could use the nearby rental house, which he also owned, if we preferred.  It provided more privacy, more space for us, and was actually more centrally located to our planned activities for that weekend.  The cost of the home was close to double the cost of the room we actually paid for but he offered it to us for no extra charge.

**To be clear, Cam has not reimbursed me in any way for giving him this glowing review, I just firmly believe in giving credit where credit is due. 😁  

As is often true for mountain weather, we were able to experience multiple seasons in just a few days.  The weekend was full of clear blue skies and warm temperatures in southern Colorado, and we had intended to stay through Sunday night.  However, with impending Winter Storm warnings for the Denver area on Monday (Denver was between us and home) we opted to leave Sunday afternoon instead.  Not all was lost though.  This change in travel plans allowed us to enjoy a leisurely, beautiful fall drive on scenic US 285 through the South Park area and Trout Creek Pass back to Denver, and on Monday we were able to enjoy our first snow of the season!

Below are some more pictures from our weekend of fun.  Thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker for several of these!

Sunset over a wide, very shallow creek that runs over a sandbar. Dark silhouettes of sand dunes are in the background.
Sunset over the Great Sand Dunes and Medano Creek
A flat, sandy area leads to trees decked in yellow leaves and tree-covered mountains in the distance, all under a clear, blue sky.
Fall at Great Sand Dunes National Park!
View through a hotel window speckled with water droplets of a parking lot, cars and other buildings with a dusting of snow, all under a gray, cloudy sky.
Snow in Denver!

This is a great park to visit no matter the time of year.  Definitely put it on your “to-do” list! 

Have you ever visited the park or driven the Medano Creek Road?  Tell me about it in the comments! 

 

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A dirt road runs through desert scrubland with pine and yellow-leafed trees and tree-covered mountains in the distance, all under a clear, blue sky. Pin reads, "The Medano Creek Road at Great Sand Dunes National Park"

 

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Stratobowl near Rapid City

In this post, I review the Stratobowl trail near Rapid City, SD.

 

The Stratobowl Rim Trail is a simple hike near Rapid City that offers spectacular views of the Black Hills and a local, historical site.  The Stratobowl is a great trail for a short hike.  It’s only around one mile each way, so it’s amenable to almost any skill level.  

Where is the Stratobowl?

The Stratobowl is located off Route 16, about a half-mile south of Old McDonald’s Farm.  There is no roadside sign highlighting the trail, but there is an obvious parking area just off of Highway 16.  If you’re there during daylight hours, it’s likely you’ll see other vehicles.

Hiking the Stratobowl

The path is comprised of simple, rolling hills on an old access road that traverses through pines and offers a prime opportunity for spotting deer and wild turkeys.  A substantial logging operation was recently completed there (necessitated by pine beetle damage) so chances of viewing wildlife are now even more likely. 

At the trail’s terminus, the road opens onto the rim and the yawning chasm that is the actual Stratobowl.  From here, a valley formed by Spring Creek spreads out before you with homes dotting the canyon floor. You’ll also often see vultures soaring the thermals…below you! 

Related posts:  Willow Creek Trail Black Hills; Hiking the Boulder Hill Trail; Secret Spots in the Black Hills!; Coon Hollow TrailLittle Elk Creek Trail; Flume Loop Trail

The Stratobowl is also a prime place to watch the sun setting over the expanse of the Black Hills (and being so close to town it’s convenient for an evening hike).  The name stems from the bowl-like shape of the valley created by the surrounding terrain.  The north side of the rim can be reached from several other trails/old logging roads off of Sheridan Lake Road to the north (I discuss these options in this post.)

This setting was the site of high-altitude, manned balloon flights that took place in the ’30s (there are several monoliths on-site detailing these); it also currently hosts an annual hot air balloon launch.  Be aware, you may hear the haunting sound of howling wolves when hiking.  Do not be alarmed though, wolves are not usually found in the Hills and those you hear are safely contained at Bear County, just a few miles away.

Sunset shot from above over a valley floor. There is a meadow and pine trees at the bottom. The dark silhouette of mountains is in the distance with the sun setting behind them.
Thank you Mr. Trekker for this sunset shot of the Stratobowl
View from above of a snowy valley floor with the tops of pine trees covered in snow. A house sits in the middle of a meadow, The whole picture is obscured with flying snow.
The Stratobowl in the snow!

This trail is perfect for an afternoon or after-work hike, or if you’re just looking for an easier place to take the kids or the dog that’s close to home.  It’s gorgeous in almost any kind of weather and the trail is family-friendly.  This is another great one to add to your list of fun hikes found near Rapid City!

Do you enjoy hiking the Stratobowl?  Tell me about it in the comments! 

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View from above of a snowy valley floor with the tops of pine trees covered in snow. A house sits in the middle of a meadow, The whole picture is obscured with flying snow. Pin reads, "For a quick hike near Rapid City check out the Stratobowl Trail"

 

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Winter Activities at Big Hill, Spearfish, South Dakota

In this post, I discuss winter activities available at the Big Hill recreation area, in the northern Black Hills.

 

Big Hill is a recreation area located in the Black Hills National Forest that offers outdoor, leisure opportunities year-round.  The prime activities enjoyed here are cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and fat-biking in the winter, though people regularly hike and mountain bike here during the summer months, as well. 

Where is Big Hill?

The Big Hill recreation area is located southwest of Spearfish, in the northern Black Hills.  The easiest way to reach the main trailhead is to take Exit 8, off of I-90, for McGuigan Road.  Take this south until you reach the T-intersection with Tinton Road.  Turn right at the intersection to drive up the hill. 

After about 8 miles, watch for a VERY tiny brown sign on the right-hand side of the road showing a hiker.  Shortly after this sign, at the top of the hill, you’ll see a large parking area on your right. (The trailhead is directly across the road from the parking area).  It is difficult to miss as there are usually numerous other cars there (especially in the winter). 

There are other routes you can take to reach this trailhead–coming from downtown Spearfish–as well as a scenic route coming up the other direction on Tinton Road from the south (from Roughlock Falls Road).  While this is a beautiful, scenic drive that I highly recommend in the summer, it should be approached with extreme caution in the winter.  This portion of the road is barely maintained for winter driving and is usually at least somewhat snow-covered.  We have successfully taken this route in the 4×4 truck in the winter, but it’s not for the faint of heart (though it is necessary if you want to reach the Old Baldy trailhead to enjoy winter activities in that area). 

The route from McGuigan Road to the trailhead is usually maintained quite well and can often be reached using a typical, 2-wheel drive vehicle (we made our first trip there in an old Civic).  It should also be noted that whether Summer or Winter, all of these dirt/gravel forest roads are dependent on the current weather and their condition can vary greatly (and QUICKLY) as the weather changes.

What is the Big Hill Recreation Area like?

Big Hill offers over 15 miles of trails formed by several different loops/routes (many follow old forest roads) that can be combined in a variety of ways.  Trail maps are usually available at the trailhead.

The trails at Big Hill are very well-signed but it’s still best to have a map to help determine the best route for you (the map also indicates the difficulty levels of the various trails).  The managers of this recreation area also do a marvelous job of keeping the ski trails and the snowshoe/fat bike/dog-friendly trails separate while ensuring everyone can still enjoy this beautiful area! 

Big Hill tends to be one of the snowier places in the Black Hills so you can potentially participate in winter activities here anywhere from October – May (dependent on current snow conditions, of course).  We’ve enjoyed snowshoeing here, as well, though there are times the snow isn’t quite deep enough so we tend to favor the Eagle Cliff area for our snowshoeing adventures. 

Today, I am focusing on the winter sports available here.  I will say though, this area is a must-see in the fall when the yellow Aspens are in full color.

Brown meadowgrass in the foreground with a hillside of yellow aspen trees (intermixed with evergreens) in the background, all under a blue sky.

**I mentioned the Eagle Cliff area above.  It only has one groomed trail, the rest are just trails cut by outdoor enthusiasts.  Big Hill offers machine-groomed ski trails that are better for practicing the fundamental drills of skiing as they are smoother. 

Machine-groomed trails require FAR less effort, but I find I enjoy them less.  They are more crowded and while faster, I find it’s harder to control my skis.  The person-groomed trails require more effort and you’ll move less quickly, but I find the resistance the snow provides aides in control of the skis and balance.  So, while the groomed trails are usually recommended for beginners, I’d say you have to decide what is most important to you; ease of effort or less fear of hurtling down a hill uncontrollably…possibly towards a tree. 😳

Warmer the higher up you go?

This area is another example of the complicated, frequently-contrasting weather you can have in the Black Hills.  On several occasions we’ve experienced temps in the single digits to low teens in the lower elevations–but it can feel almost balmy with temps in the mid-twenties at Big Hill (that equates to perfectly comfortable conditions when skiing, in the sun, with little wind.)  This contrasting weather is due to a temperature inversion.  Put in simple terms this basically means warmer air is lighter and floats over cooler air.  This makes it warmer the higher you go in elevation. (If you want a more scientific explanation you’ll have to track down Mr. Trekker. 😃)

Snowshoeing vs. Cross-Country Skiing

Snowshoeing is great fun, but it’s HARD work depending on snow conditions (this activity and mountain biking are literally the hardest workouts I’ve ever done). 

Cross-country skiing, in contrast, requires far less exertion (and I’ve found that working out with an elliptical during the week is perfect training for this sport as the body motions required for both are very similar). 

Anyone who can walk can snowshoe.  It takes a little skill to keep from stepping on your own shoes, but once you master that, you’re golden.  Cross-country skiing, on the other hand, is FAR more difficult.  It requires balance, finesse, and the ability to relax and just “go with the flow”–all characteristics I SORELY lack (“sore” being the keyword as that’s often the result of my endeavors 😝). 

I would also argue skiing is more dangerous as you’re moving faster and are more likely to slip/twist something when you fall (and you WILL fall).  If you fall while snowshoeing, you pretty much just end up on your rump or fall to the side into a cushioning snowbank.  It may be cold, but not really injury-inducing (although your snowshoe could become stuck under a buried log, as I found out at Big Hill one early, spring day…😮 )  

We’ve gotten pretty good at most outdoor sports we enjoy, but with skiing, we’re still very much beginners.  Standing on a thin object that’s meant to glide quickly and effortlessly does not lend itself to keeping one’s balance.  Neither do skis that are as long as I am tall and stick out several feet both in front of and behind you.  Not only do you have to learn how to move around without stepping on yourself (similar to snowshoes) but you have to do it while each leg is trying to slide in an opposite direction. 😝

So, if you’re enjoying a snowy weekend at Big Hill, and you see a bumbling idiot barely able to stay upright on their skis..it just might be me! 😇

The best trails at Big Hill

Dirt trail crossing a brown-grass meadow with yellow apens and evergreens in the background, all under a blue sky.For beginners, I strongly recommend starting with the initial Loop A.  It’s a short, groomed trail that just goes in a small circle around a meadow/forested area near the front of the Big Hill trail network.  It’s fairly flat with only a few short rises and dips and doesn’t offer much opportunity for falls (though, full disclosure, I have fallen here 😝). 

There is another Loop A that goes farther out.  This option is also usually groomed. It’s also good for beginners once you get a little more confidence as it’s solely a “green” route–meaning it’s considered “easy”.  There are a few steeper slopes, one especially on the right-hand (western) side of the loop as you’re heading out.  I’ve had my worst spills in this area and though they were frightening, I’ve left without injury–so far–and haven’t even felt very sore the next day. (A surprise as I was sure my ankles were being ripped from my body when I fell. 😮 )

What will you see at Big Hill?

Big Hill is absolutely BEAUTIFUL no matter the time of year.  It offers a mixture of forested and meadowy areas that contain leafless deciduous and evergreen trees, all covered in a soft blanket of snow during the winter.  On sunny days you’ll frequently hear birds chirping in the trees, and the ever-present, South Dakota breeze rustling through the pines provides a respite from the deafening, snowy silence.  In the fall, this area offers a warm glow with the bronze meadowgrass, and glowing, yellow aspens all standing in contrast to the evergreen trees.

Brown meadowgrass in the foreground with a hillside of yellow aspen trees (intermixed with evergreens) in the background.

This recreation area is far enough from civilization that it offers an incredibly peaceful environment.  It is sullied in the winter only by the occasional roar of snowmobiles that also enjoy nearby trails–though not these exact trails. (Fortunately, they focus on the region on the other side of the road so they are usually only really heard when you are near the parking lot.)

If you’re looking for a great place to enjoy some snow sports that is both beautiful, easy to reach, and that offers fun options for everyone, check out Big Hill!

Have you tried the Big Hill Recreation Area?  Tell me about your experience in the comments! 

 

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Lookout Point Trail at Wind Cave National Park

In this post, I discuss activities available above-ground at Wind Cave National Park.

 

Wind Cave National Park, located near Hot Springs, South Dakota, is best known for the sites it offers below-ground.  However, it also provides plenty of opportunities for hiking above-ground, as well!

Hiking trails at Wind Cave National Park

There are several trails found throughout Wind Cave National Park and countless route combinations and loops can be made depending on how long of a hike you are interested in.  These include the Rankin Ridge Trail, and one of our favorites, a loop formed by the Lookout Point Trail. 

It includes a short skirt where the Sanctuary/Centennial Trails run together and then continues on to the final portion of the hike which is solely comprised of the Centennial Trail.  This is all located in the southern portion of the park. 

Where is the trailhead for the Lookout Point Trail?

The trailhead we use for this hike (the Norbeck Trailhead) also marks the southern terminus of the 111-mile Centennial Trail.  This route traverses the spine of the Black Hills.

The Lookout Point trailhead can be found off Route 87 in Wind Cave National Park.  There are numerous ways to reach it but we usually take SD 79 south out of Rapid City, to US 18 west heading to Hot Springs.  We then take US 385 north out of Hot Springs until it connects with Route 87 north. 

To return to Rapid City you can retrace your steps, or if you’re interested in a longer, more scenic route, you can choose from a variety of options north through Wind Cave, Custer State Park, and the Black Hills.  Have I mentioned a map is helpful when adventuring in the Hills? 😉

What You Will See on the Lookout Point Trail

The Lookout Point loop can be completed in either direction though we prefer starting on the Lookout Point Trail (the climbs going this direction are less steep).  The hike starts off along a small creek and then almost immediately takes you up a steep hill (fortunately the climb is of relatively short duration and once you reach the ridge above, the terrain is fairly flat for some time).  

The correct route through this area isn’t always clear due to  NUMEROUS game trails left by the many four-legged critters traveling to the creek for water, so be very watchful so as not to lose the path.  The signage on the trail is decent but (even with previous experience) we’ve ended up following well-worn buffalo paths instead of the actual trail.  Luckily, we were able to recognize our error early on and quickly correct it.

Once you jump on the Sanctuary Trail portion of the loop (about halfway through), the ecosystem makes a clear change as you descend from the open grassland of the prairie into a forested canyon.  The descent is rather steep so take care not to slip on loose scree (or if ice is present). 

See if you can spot an unusual item in the Black Hills, cedar trees!  They appear to favor this protected, damper area. 

This portion of the trail is also characterized by the rock cliffs towering far overhead. 

An icy creek traverses the bottom of a canyon. Dry, brown grass and green, pine trees speckle the rocky, canyon wall.
The creek through the canyon

The bottom of the canyon consists of a long, narrow meadow.  When you reach the floor of the canyon, be sure to turn left onto the Centennial Trail to keep to the loop (a right turn will put you on the Highland Creek Trail). 

There are several prime lunch spots along the creek and watch for remnants of the ungulates (deer and elk) whose bones are scattered throughout this area (whether they met their demise by flood or they were drug here by fanged animals, we will never know). 

Follow the canyon and its babbling creek for about two miles until you emerge dramatically into an open meadow.  A portion of the Centennial Trail will soon break off on an uphill branch to the right, while you will continue straight along the creek and eventually the trail will curve to the left.  It then ascends one final rise which brings you back to the trailhead.

A winter scene. A small, icy creak meanders through a brown-grass meadow with bare trees on its banks and green pine trees in the background.
The creek through the meadow (notice how it is just beginning to freeze)

Wildlife on the Lookout Point Trail

Be sure to keep VERY ALERT for buffalo in this area.  They are numerous and we see them every time we hike in this park.  It is rare that we don’t have to alter our route to skirt a buffalo (or 30).  They seem to favor the same trails the humans use so be prepared to go off-trail and give them a wide berth. 

Fortunately, this area is highly visible, open prairie so even if you have to go well off-trail you’re usually able to keep at least one trail marker in sight.  It’s always advisable to bring a topographical trail map and compass when hiking these areas (or anywhere, really) to assist you in maintaining your direction if you need to go off-trail. 

Always remember, if the animal is reacting to you (acting agitated in any way, huffing, stomping its feet, etc.) you are TOO CLOSE and should move away (calmly and slowly) as soon as possible.  As long as the animal’s space is respected there are rarely any altercations but it should always be remembered that these are wild (not to mention LARGE) animals and they may react aggressively if they feel threatened (this is especially true in the spring when calves are present). 

A brown-grassy hill dotted with pine trees, with two dark specks resembling buffalo at the top, all under a clear, blue sky.
Buffalo on the ridge, near the end of the hike

On this day’s hike the buffalo we saw didn’t even bother to get up and stop chewing their cud as they watched us wander by.  We have had buffalo turn to follow our every step until we’re out of sight when calves were present (and we were intentionally skirting them at the time).  We’re also often scolded by prairie dogs for “invading” their area when altering our course away from the buffalo. 

This brings up another safety point, give the prairie dogs space too.  According to the Forest Service, their fleas carry plague (yes, as in the Black Plague) which can be passed to you if you get too close and are bitten by said flea.  Also, the animals may bite if they feel threatened, though they aren’t usually aggressive.  In addition, rattlesnakes and black widow spiders favor abandoned prairie dog holes (not to mention these holes offer a prime opportunity to twist an ankle if you aren’t careful) so it’s best to treat these “prairie dog towns” with respect, as well. 

Be sure to keep a sharp eye out for coyote, elk, and deer in this area as this is prime viewing territory for that type of wildlife.  Be careful to also watch trail signs at junctions in these locales as there are several intersections and it is easy to get on the wrong trail.  

To Conclude

 This entire loop can be completed in about three hours (dependent on your skill level, speed, and how many sightseeing breaks you choose to take).  The trail is relatively easy with only short, moderate-difficulty climbs and is around five miles in distance for the entire loop.  This area is also lower in altitude than many areas in the Hills and may be easier for the “Lowlanders” to handle. 😉  In the summer, be prepared for unrelenting heat and little shade on the prairie section (though the ever-present prairie wind will offer some respite).

So, when visiting Wind Cave, don’t let the amazing sights below ground deter you from enjoying the numerous opportunities available above ground as well!

Have you hiked in Wind Cave? Tell me about your experience in the comments! 

 

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Great Hikes in the Black Elk Wilderness

In this post, I review some hiking trails found in the Black Elk Wilderness, in the Black Hills of South Dakota.

 

The Black Elk Wilderness covers a portion of the central Black Hills, in the Mount Rushmore/Horsethief Lake portion of the Harney range (now the Black Elk range) of South Dakota.  There are some great hiking trails that traverse this area!

Hike the Horsethief Lake Trail to Grizzly Bear Creek Trail in the Black Hills

One great option is to begin at the Horsethief Lake Trail.  The trailhead can be found at the Horsethief Lake Fishing/Rec area which is located off of Hwy 244, west of Mt. Rushmore.

Note: this is one turnoff east of the drive for the Horsethief Lake Campground. 

There is a larger parking area right at the lake. The trailhead is located at a small parking area just to the east of here–there is a sign. 

We took the Horsethief Lake Trail (Trail #14) to the Grizzly Bear Creek Trail (Trail #7) which traverses a lovely canyon area and parallels Grizzly Bear Creek for a time. 

This portion of the Black Hills is particularly vulnerable to storm damage as it was decimated by the Pine Beetle plague in recent years.  Due to this, there are several hazards to watch out for in this area, including blow-down sections of trees and falling limbs/trees if windy conditions are occurring. 

What you’ll see hiking through the Black Elk Wilderness

The hike was lovely.  Much of it traverses canyons, surrounded on all sides by towers of granite.  There are several beautiful, lookout points with views of the surrounding Hills and the prairie stretching far to the east.  The trail is in a largely wooded area so it would be fairly shaded in the warmer months, and as you climb there is usually at least a moderate, cooling breeze (that can be downright chilling in the cooler months). 

Portions of this trail are open to horses as well so be watchful for the equines (and be careful not to step in what they leave behind). 

The portion of the trail we completed was of moderate difficulty, was well-developed, and was fairly wide.  There weren’t many rocks/large steps to negotiate and while there were few trail markers, they weren’t needed as the path was evident. 

It should be noted that the lower part of the Horsethief Trail is frequently wet and muddy so waterproof shoes/boots are suggested.   In the winter/early spring, thanks to snow-melt and the nearby creek it is often extremely icy and slick.  This portion of the trail is located in a canyon under a canopy of trees so it doesn’t get much sunlight to melt the ice.   We have seen several inches of thick, hazardous ice on this trail in the early spring that required our Yaktrax to navigate safely.

Other trail loops in the Black Elk Wilderness

If you’re up to the challenge, a loop can be made of this trail using the Horsethief Lake Trail to the Grizzly Bear Creek Trail to the Centennial Trail (Trail # 89). This will then eventually take you back to the Horsethief Lake trail almost at the Trailhead (the loop can be completed in either direction).  This entire loop would be around 10 – 12 miles.  While this is within our ability level, we weren’t sure about the steepness/difficulty of the remainder of the trail, and daylight was growing short so we chose to stop at about the halfway point, have some lunch along the creekside, and return the way we had come. 

Numerous trails connect throughout the Harney (Black Elk) range. Depending on your skill level and how long you are willing to commit to being out in the wild you can hike any combination of these, ranging from a simple hike of a few hours to a backpacking trek of several days.

For those non-locals who may be wondering why I keep referring to this area as the Harney (Black Elk) range, I’ll explain.  Harney Peak is the highest mountain in the Black Hills (and the tallest east of the Rockies).  It stands out among the surrounding peaks of the Harney Range.  The Black Elk Wilderness area comprises much of this range. 

Black Elk was a Lakota, Holy Man who lived around the turn of the century, the Wilderness area is named after him.*  A few years ago, it was decided that Harney Peak would be renamed Black Elk Peak in honor of this great man and as a tribute to the local, Lakota culture.  As it has been such a short duration of time since the change, many of the books/maps regarding this local area (and the signs currently posted) will still carry the former name of the mountain/range.

*If you’re a history buff or just interested in American Indian culture, I highly recommend the book Black Elk Speaks by John Neihardt.  It’s a biography of the Holy Man’s life based on interviews Neihardt completed with him in his final years. It is a very interesting, fairly objective account of a man growing up in a changing world.  It discusses Black Elk’s nomadic life before General Custer and his soldiers arrived and the way this life changed after gold–or as Black Elk called it, “the yellow metal that makes white men crazy”–was found in the Black Hills.

Below are two pics that Mr. Trekker took of our hike:

Rock spires rise above the green, pine forest, all under a clear, blue sky
The granite spires surrounding the canyon we were hiking in
A fall scene. A small creek running through dry grass and bare trees, with green pine trees in the background, all under a clear, blue sky.
Grizzly Creek

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For more information on other trails available in the Black Elk Wilderness, click here.

Have you hiked this portion of the Black Elk Wilderness? Tell me what you thought of the beauty here in the comments! 

 

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A fall scene. A small creek running through dry grass and bare trees, with green pine trees in the background, all under a clear, blue sky. 

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Gunsight Pass Trail, Glacier National Park

In this post, I review a portion of the Gunsight Pass Trail (starting from the Jackson Glacier Overlook) at Glacier National Park.

 

Author’s Note: Since we visited Glacier in 2016, the Park Service has implemented a complex, ticket system for visiting the park in the summer. To be honest, I can’t make much sense of it as it involves multiple tickets being required to enjoy various activities around the park. For more information on this system, visit the park website and/or contact the park office. 

The Gunsight Pass Trail at Glacier National Park is a great hike that offers scenic views.

Similar to the Swiftcurrent Trail, this is a fairly long route that connects with several others throughout the park. It runs for almost 20 miles, from the Lake McDonald Lodge, past the Sperry Chalet, Gunsight Lake, and Lake Ellen Wilson, to the Jackson Glacier Overlook.  The trail offers prime views of several waterfalls along its length. (Both trailheads can be reached from the Going to the Sun Road.)  Because of its length, most thru-hikers do it in two days with an overnight stop at one of several backcountry campgrounds or the Sperry Chalet.

The Trekkers aren’t much for overnight camping in the backcountry, so we chose to only attempt the portion that runs from the Jackson Glacier Overlook, on the Going to the Sun Road, to Florence Falls.  Both of us entered this hike with a bit of trepidation as it was our first real foray into Grizzly Country.  Our goal was to make it to the Florence Falls trail junction (four miles in, making it a total hike of eight miles, round trip).

We had hopes of reaching the falls but wanted to wait to see how we were feeling when we got there.  We knew going in that the final mile of the return trip would be a strenuous uphill climb, so we planned to reserve some energy for that (and it was good we did).

Related posts: 5 Things you Don’t Want to Miss at Glacier National ParkGlacier National Park: Hiking the Apgar Lookout Trail

Hiking on the Gunsight Pass Trail

This is a beautiful trail!  As it runs largely through the forest, in a lower-lying area, along the St. Mary River, it was a cooler option on that 85-degree day.  It is fairly evenly-graded with some beautiful views and was the least crowded trail we experienced in late June (we saw several groups of hikers though none of the “lines” we encountered on a few other trails).  The section we chose was the least strenuous portion of the route–it runs along the valley floor as opposed to climbing the peaks as it does in other segments. 

Despite being in the forest, portions of this trail do allow for breaks in the foliage that overlook a marshy area (look for moose!) with incredible views of the soaring mountain peaks and Jackson Glacier as a backdrop.  Upon completing the initial steep descent the trail levels off at the picturesque Deadwood Falls. 

On your return trip, this is a good place for a break before attempting the final climb to the top.  There’s plenty of space to sit on the rocks in the sun or shade (depending on your preference and the time of day) and let the mist from the falling water cool you.  The creek below the falls is also an opportunity to dip your feet in the chilly water; just use caution, the current is strong and the rocks may be slippery. 

The coursing creek continues to accompany you along the trail.  Shortly after passing the falls and the first back-country campsites, you’ll encounter an interesting suspension bridge that crosses the creek.

A wooden bridge with wires on the sides hangs over a river
The suspension bridge over the creek
A short, turquoise waterfall flows over red rocks
The beautiful Deadwood Falls

Grizzly Bears at Glacier National Park

The only unpleasant factor on this trail was the huckleberry bushes; they were many and accompanied us for a large portion of the four-mile journey.  That time of year they were calf to knee height, though later in the summer they can reach chest to head height.

This causes an especially sensitive situation as the berries are a favorite for grizzly bears in late summer.  There are several places where the trail encounters blind corners and hills so be sure to follow standard safety guidelines when hiking in bear country:  never hike alone, don’t hike around dusk or dawn, carry bear spray, and make plenty of noise (one of our favorite methods is singing and hand-clapping–this also helps to alleviate trail fatigue). 

Also, be aware, that the water rushing in the nearby creek may mask your sounds and could increase the likelihood of surprising one of the large Ursines.  We did not see a bear on our hike (have you noticed a trend in our hikes in Bear Country?) though we saw evidence of a very recent pass-through. 

Another hazard of the thick bushes was they almost completely obscured the trail in some cases making it somewhat hard to follow.  They also hid a less menacing annoyance, bees–as I, unfortunately, found out when one flew inside my hiking boot and stung me for my intrusion.

A large pile of animal poop on a dirt path
This is gross but it’s shown to make a point. This is the closest we got (and that I ever want to get) to a grizzly.  I kid you not, it looked like something that came from an animal the size of a horse!

Wolverines on the Gunsight Pass Trail

We encountered another first on this trail…a wolverine! (It looked nothing like Hugh Jackman! 😝)  They are commonly known in this part of the park.

We were traversing one of the clearer portions of the trail, I was in the lead.  As I looked down the trail a wolverine came trotting towards us around a bend about 25 feet down the trail.  We all stopped…he looked at us…we looked at him…he looked especially cranky as he panted in the heat…then he kept coming!

We’ve never encountered a wolverine in the wild before but I’ve heard stories of their nastiness (apparently they’ve been known to kill moose that have gotten mired in snowdrifts, as well as a polar bear on at least one occasion–seriously!)  At this point, I was scanning the huckleberry-covered hillside for an escape route as I did NOT want to have to deal with this critter that is 1/10th my size but can kill creatures many times larger than me!  Fortunately, at about that moment, he decided it was too hot for a confrontation and sprinted off into the bushes.

The view overlooks a green, marshy area with a large, snow-covered mountain in the distance.
This is the view from one of the lookout points on the trail.  Moose are frequently seen in this area (none were there the day we hiked).  Jackson Glacier is just out of sight on the other side of this mountain.
The view overlooks a green, marshy area with large, snow-covered mountains in the distance.
Another view from the trail lookout

We did reach our four-mile goal but did not make it to Florence Falls.  We had the energy to continue on but knew it would have added over a mile to our trek and we still had a hefty climb ahead of us on the return trip.  We were also running low on water so we again made the safe choice to turn back–this turned out to be wise as our water barely held out the remainder of the hike.  Having faced our fears and successfully trekked eight full miles in the middle of Grizzly Country, we counted this hike as a success!

Have you hiked the Gunsight Pass Trail?  What was your experience?  Tell me in the comments!

 

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Glacier National Park: Hiking the Apgar Lookout Trail

In this post, I review the Apgar Lookout Trail at Glacier National Park, and discuss our failure to reach the summit.

 

Author’s Note: Since we visited Glacier in 2016, the Park Service has implemented a complex, ticket system for visiting the park in the summer. To be honest, I can’t make much sense of it as it involves multiple tickets being required to enjoy various activities around the park. For more information on this system, visit the park website and/or contact the park office. 

Otherwise known as the “Soul-Crushing Switchbacks Trail” 😮–thank you Mr. Trekker, for that!–the Apgar Lookout Trail traverses Apgar Mountain to the fire tower near the peak, and offers views of Lake McDonald, in Glacier National Park.  

Where is the Apgar Lookout Trail?

The easiest way to reach the trailhead is from the West Glacier entrance on the west side of the park.  Shortly after passing through the West Glacier entrance gate a road branches off to the left with signs for the Glacier Institute, a horse corral, and the Apgar Lookout Trail.  At the next intersection, you’ll turn right towards the horse corral, then continue following the signs to the left which take you to an unpaved dirt road and the trailhead.

Hiking on the Apgar Lookout Trail

This trek was rough!  The trail is interesting because it isn’t that long (only about seven miles round trip); it’s also fairly wide (enough so that two people can walk side-by-side in some cases), and it’s smooth (there aren’t many roots/rocks to trip you up).  The first 3/4 of a mile is fairly flat but then the elevation gain begins.  You gain almost 2000 feet of elevation in about three miles over a series of three, LONG switchbacks. 

Related posts:  Going to the Sun Road at Glacier National Park; Swiftcurrent Trail at Glacier National Park and 5 Other “Don’t Miss” Sites!5 Things you Don’t Want to Miss at Glacier National ParkGunsight Pass Trail, Glacier National Park

We didn’t fully appreciate just how steep it was on the way up, it was the difficulty in keeping our balance on the way down that clued us in.   Part of what makes it so difficult is that almost the entire trail runs through a burn scar left by a forest fire from several years ago; so it is completely exposed to the sun. 

We got a late start (about 2 pm as we made the attempt shortly after arriving at the park) and it was hot and fairly humid that day (about 85 degrees).  I should also note my body does not tolerate heat well.  There’s a reason why I rejoiced in our move to the cool Northern Plains after living in the steamy South!

The lack of shade-producing foliage does offer one advantage…this trail allows for incredible views of the surrounding Flathead River Valley! 

If you make it to the top, we were told the views of Lake McDonald bordered by the park’s mountains to the north are beautiful. (click here for the webcam view from the summit of Apgar Mountain.) 

In my semi-delirious state, I half-heartedly named this “the Butterfly Trail” for the numerous (and lovely) flying insects we stirred up on our trek. 

As I’ve mentioned in other posts for this park, beware of bears on this trail.  We did not see any but some hikers that were exiting the trail as we were starting out did.  Also, three days later, a mountain biker (and park ranger) was tragically killed when he surprised a grizzly on a bike path about six miles from this very trail (outside the boundaries of the park).

A dirt path through knee-high, pine trees with green hills in the background.
The trail–the view is looking upward near the beginning of the LONG climb, this is essentially what the entire trail looks like.

Know How Hard to Push Yourself When Hiking

I’m going to get on my soapbox a bit regarding an important safety tip:  KNOW YOUR LIMITS in the outdoors!  There is a fine line between pushing yourself to extend your stamina and increase your strength…and putting yourself into a dangerous/potentially deadly situation. 

There are some well-known symptoms of exhaustion, dehydration, and heat stress but it also helps to know your body.  This takes time and experience to learn what signals your body gives when it’s being stressed and what those signals mean.

As much as it pains my pride to admit it…we didn’t make it to the top of this trail.  We decided to turn around about a quarter of the way through the 3rd switchback when the “bent-double” stomach cramps and nausea hit me.  I’ve learned from past experience that this is a major sign of dehydration for myself and I didn’t want to push things too far.

Always remember, just because you get to the top, that’s only halfway, you still have to get back down and sometimes going downhill can be more difficult.  Exhaustion combined with the pull of gravity on the return trip can prove disastrous–I’ve worn scrapes and bruises resulting from stumbles caused by this dastardly combination on more than one occasion.

So don’t spend all your energy on only half the trail or you may find you’re unable to complete the most important half…getting home!

It’s also important to note, for the benefit of your wallet, that some parks/states require you to pay for at least a portion of the cost involved in a Search and Rescue operation if one is deemed necessary.  They’ll come to get you, but the financial toll may remain long after the physical injuries have long since healed.  If concern for your own body isn’t enough to convince you to turn back, perhaps concern for your wallet will be.

View down a mountain from above. Green grass and tree-covered mountains in the distance.
The view–the Flathead River Valley from near the middle of one of the switchbacks, you can see how far we’d come from the trail below us

Don’t be Afraid to Turn Back when Hiking

It’s difficult to admit we failed on this attempt, but I firmly believe we made the right decision in turning back.  It’s easy to get “Summit Fever”, especially when you go into a situation expecting to succeed.  The length of this trail was well within our average hiking range and it was fairly easy, technically speaking, so turning back definitely caused some wounded pride.

Don’t be afraid to admit you’ve bitten off more than you can chew though.  A report from the years 2003 – 2006 found that 23% of Search and Rescue incidents included people in their 20’s and 66.3% of the victims were male.  So the takeaway lesson is, that young males–the ones usually thought of as being the most healthy, strong, and capable–are also the ones most likely to run into trouble.  If they struggle, the rest of us shouldn’t feel bad admitting we struggle too!

So guys, take note…find a hiking partner who wimps out before you do so you can turn back and still save face. 😉  I should note, that the cramps relented within minutes once I stopped climbing, found some shade, got some sustenance in me (food and drink), and cooled down.

If you’re looking for a challenging hike on your next trip to Glacier National Park, check out the Apgar Lookout Trail!

Have you attempted these infamous switchbacks?  What was your experience like? Let me know in the comments!

 

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