Black Hills Blackberry Trail, near Mt. Rushmore

In this post, I review the Blackberry Trail in the Black Elk Wilderness!

 

The Blackberry Trail is a great hike into the Black Elk Wilderness.  This trail is fairly unknown, which is ironic because it sits directly across from one of the biggest tourist spots in the Black Hills, Mount Rushmore!

Where is the Blackberry Trail in the Black Hills?

The Blackberry trailhead is found in an old gravel parking area (that is sometimes roped off) directly across the road from Mt. Rushmore.

If the gravel parking area is roped off, you can actually park in the Mt. Rushmore parking deck. (This means you will have to pay the parking fee at the site. It used to be that once you bought a pass it was good for a year.  Now it’s only good for the day. 😛–Insert rant here, from Mr. Trekker, about the evil, automated kiosks they installed to replace humans 😂.)

We had interesting weather the day we trekked this trail, typical of spring in the Black Hills.  It was windy, with precipitation varying between light rain, heavy snow showers, and pelting mini-ice balls!  This was all mixed in with blue sky and warm sun, and we experienced all of these conditions within about 30 minutes of each other! 😛

Bring Extra Clothes when Hiking

As we were navigating the route, Mr. Trekker proved why you always bring extra supplies along, especially a change of socks!  You never know when you’re going to slip off a mossy rock and fall knee-deep into a swollen creek!

(I can’t make fun of him too much, he was actually trying to find an easy way across so he could then help me across. 😳  Of course, if he had listened to his wife and taken the route I suggested in the first place…😉.)

The water level seemed much higher than usual, as many of these creeks are just suggestions in drier times.  With the recent snowmelt and wet conditions of spring, the local waters were definitely running higher than normal.

What you’ll see on the Blackberry Trail

This is an absolutely GORGEOUS trail!  While it does climb the majority of the way, the route undulates through the hills and beautiful canyons that are common in the Black Hills National Forest.  There were a few lengthy, steep spots, but for the most part, they didn’t become overbearing.  The first half mile or so of the trail actually runs downhill. (You know what that means for the return trip!  Everyone loves a good, uphill climb to finish! 😛)

We did an out-and-back trek, taking the Blackberry Trail south to where it meets up with the Centennial Trail (just in the last few years, this portion of the route earned the classification of a National Recreation Trail.)  Then we took the Centennial Trail south, to its junction with the Grizzly Bear Creek Trail, which I discuss in this post.

I’m not sure why it’s called Grizzly Bear Creek. There may be been grizzlies in this area at one time, but that was MANY years ago (we’re talking centuries. 😛)

A portion of the way, the path runs along with Grizzly Bear Creek, which helps to make it so picturesque.  There were numerous water crossings and very few bridges throughout the trek.  Again, in drier times of the year, this may not be an issue, but I would recommend wearing either waterproof hiking boots or sandals you don’t mind getting wet if you’re planning to tackle this hike.  Also, be on the lookout for mountain goats and marmots, as they tend to frequent this area!

A marmot peaks it's head over some boulders
Marmot!
Mountain goal eating grass on the side of the road
You see these guys A LOT at Mt. Rushmore!
A boardwalk traverses the forest floor
One of the only bridges we encountered. It was quite picturesque!

How Long is the Blackberry Trail?

This route was about eight miles, out-and-back.  Not a bad day’s hike for us, though you could easily make it shorter or longer, to suit your tastes. Depending on how adventurous you are, this is a great area for backpacking, as it would allow you more time to fully explore the various trails that wander through the Black Elk Wilderness Area.  One other unique thing about this trail is that it offers cool views of Mt. Rushmore along the way!

Mt. Rushmore as seen through a break in the trees

Harney Range in the Black Hills National Forest

I know I’ve mentioned it in the past, but I LOVE hiking in the Harney Range.  The granite mounds and spires that are frequently found throughout the area give the region its own, unique flair.  The Ponderosa Pines that grow here allow a lot of light through their branches.  Also, the drier conditions (usually) found in the Hills lend themselves to little or no undergrowth on the forest floor. This means, even in the midst of the forest, you can actually see for quite a distance.

This is pretty unique compared to many forests we’ve visited.  Some areas of Colorado and Wyoming are similar, but these definitely contrast with forests that you find in many other parts of the country.  Most of those are comprised of dark, foreboding woods with trees so thick it’s hard to see between them.  Even in North Carolina, with the almost-tropical plants and ferns that covered the forest floor, it was easy to lose the trail.

There are all sorts of trails winding around the Black Elk Wilderness.  These aren’t the big trails that all the tourists hear about throughout the Wilderness Area and Custer State Park, though many of these do connect with the better-known trails, such as Black Elk Peak Trail, Trail #9 (formerly the Harney Trail) or the Cathedral Spires/Little Devil’s Tower Trails.

But if you’re looking for a nice, afternoon jaunt through the woods on a warm day, these are perfect.  Because they aren’t as well known, they tend to be far less crowded.  They aren’t overly difficult either.  I would give the majority of these side trails a moderate rating, with some strenuous spots.  They are sometimes single-track, rather than wide and graded, and you do have to watch for roots and rocks that you may need to clamber over or around.  But there aren’t any large, rocky areas that need to be navigated.

More pics from our day on the Blackberry Trail!

A dirt hiking trail forms a tunnel between the trees
I LOVE “tunnels”!
Mountain goats on the side of the road with Mt. Rushmore in the background
Our “Greeter” at Mt. Rushmore!

So the next time you’re looking for an interesting hike in the Black Hills, consider one of the lesser-known trails in the Black Elk Wilderness like the Blackberry Trail.  You may be surprised how much you enjoy these hidden gems!

Have you enjoyed this trail or do you have any questions on how to reach it?  Feel free to leave your experiences or any questions in the comments!

 

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A boardwalk in the woods with the title "Blackberry Trail"

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Hiking Devils Tower

Devils Tower, in nearby Wyoming, is worth the time it takes to visit. In this post, I review the hiking trails that help you enjoy the site, as well as its history and some unusual legends that surround this other-worldly monolith.

 

As it holds the title of the nation’s First National Monument (thank you Teddy Roosevelt!), Devils Tower should be on your bucket list!  Several different hiking trails offer beautiful views as the site rises over the surrounding valley floor.  You’ll find yourself surrounded by yellow rock layers that stand out in contrast to the red layers of the Spearfish Formation, while the gorgeous Wyoming countryside spreads out before you like a mottled quilt.

As it holds the title of the nation’s first National Monument (thank you Teddy Roosevelt!), Devil’s Tower should be on your bucket list!  You’ll find several different hiking trails throughout the park, of varying lengths and difficulties.  Beautiful views are available from all the trails as the tower rises above the surrounding valley floor.  Below you, the gorgeous Wyoming countryside spreads out before you like a mottled quilt. The yellowed rock layers that surround you stand out in contrast to the red cliffs of the Spearfish Formatio

Watch out for rattlesnakes in this area during the warmer months. You won’t usually find them on the well-traveled paths–though they will, occasionally, seek out the warmer blacktop in the mornings or evenings.  However, you may come upon them in the grass if you wander off-trail, or if you are hiking some of the more rugged, grassier routes.

If you visit the Visitor’s Center, you can see views of the top of the Tower. Interestingly enough, there is actually grass up there!  It offers a nice place for the climbers to relax and take a break before they trek back down.

Snakes have even been found on the summit, though naturalists aren’t quite sure how they got there.  It has been theorized that they may have been dropped by birds that were planning to make a meal of them.  While this meant good fortune for the snake, it also meant an empty tummy for the bird. 😳

Devils Tower Hikes:

All of the hiking trails at Devils Tower are worth checking out and can be enjoyed by those with a variety of hiking expertise.  You should be aware, there isn’t a lot of shade available on any of the routes.  While this makes for a hot trek in the warmer months, the good news is you’re in Wyoming, so there is almost ALWAYS at least a slight breeze! 😉

The Tower Trail:

This is the main trail that traverses the base of the tower.  At a little over a mile in length, it is paved or graded the entire way and offers benches for resting.  This route should be accessible for most people, just watch out for the occasional root.  Bring binoculars and watch for climbers on the monolith!

South Side and Valley View Trails:

Both of these are side trails that connect to the Red Beds Trail and add an additional half mile to that route.  They are shorter and take you into the valley that skirts the south side of the tower (imagine that!) 😝  They wind through a prairie dog town that is also accessible from the road.  The furry little critters are cute, but stay back!  DO NOT FEED THEM!  Their fleas carry Plague (yes, THAT plague). 😝

The Joyner Trail:

This trek is a 1.5-mile loop that covers mostly the grassland north of the tower.  It also includes a connector to the Red Beds Trail if you choose to use it.  Its trailhead is found in a different location on the north side of the park, which also makes a prime lunch spot as it offers one of the most dramatic shots of the monolith (see below):

A large, rock monolith rises above the trees and brown, prairie grass into the cloudy, blue sky.

Red Beds Trail:

This is our favorite hike at Devils Tower!  At almost three total miles in length, this loop is the longest and most strenuous of all the trails.  You can take it either direction, though both will start by heading downhill to about the halfway point and then will return uphill.  So, while you think it’s easy at first, remember, it’s uphill ALL the way back! 😉 

While you won’t have as good of views of the tower from this route, it tends to be far less busy and it offers more views of the surrounding landscape.  It also takes you through different ecosystems including the nearby grassland and the dry, red rock bed–hence the name–of the Spearfish Formation.

Below are some of the scenic views available from the Red Beds Trail:

View up a hill covered in brown grass and sparse, pine trees. A tall, rock monolith rises from behind the crest of the hill.

View from the bottom of a brown-grass and sparse, pine tree-covered hill. A tall, rock monolith rises from behind the crest of the hill.
This route does offer a few nice views of the tower!

A muddy river snakes through brown-grass and pine tree-covered banks.
The Cheyenne River

A red rock wall spreads to the distance. Pine and brown-grass-covered hills are in the foreground.
You can see why they call it the Red Beds Trail!

Pine tree-covered hills in the fore and far background. A brown grass valley sits in between them.
The surrounding valley
View from between two pine trees of pine tree-covered hills with two rocky mountains rising above them in the far background.

How was Devils Tower Formed?

There are several explanations for how the tower came to be:

The “boring” scientific explanation 😉:

There are various theories that explain the creation of the Tower, but the most accepted one is that, back when the Earth was young, this was once a volcanic plug that allowed lava to escape to the surface.  The rock that formed around the plug was harder and of a different type than the surrounding rock.  In later years, this softer rock eroded, leaving the plug behind.  

But enough with “provable facts”, let’s move on to the far more interesting legends. 😁

American Indian legends:

The legends vary by tribe, but most feature young children being chased by a large bear.  The children usually climb on a rock to escape the bear and pray for help.  The Great Spirit causes the rock to grow so the children are transported out of the bear’s reach.  As the bear tries to climb the rock and falls, his claws leave large gashes in the rock (this explains the igneous columns).

Several of the legends state the children are girls who eventually turned into the Seven Sisters star constellation.  One Lakota Sioux legend states the bear grows tired, wanders away to the land that is now South Dakota, and eventually falls asleep.  He then turns into Bear Butte, a sister volcanic plug found in the northern Black Hills.  

Both of these sites are considered sacred by numerous American Indian tribes.  It is common to see prayer bundles at either location and sometimes, people can be observed practicing ceremonies there. These locales are occasionally closed to visitors when certain tribal events are occurring.  Please respect any religious observances you note and refrain from touching or moving them.  We are truly visitors to these sacred areas and should respect them as such. 

“I’m not saying it’s aliens…”

Then there’s the “other” explanation…when in doubt, always assume it’s the aliens! 👽  

Some people may have never heard of one of Steven Spielberg’s classics from the 1970’s–and one of Richard Dreyfuss’ first big movies–Close Encounters of the Third Kind.  This film was old when I watched it as a kid (and we don’t need to discuss how long ago THAT was! 😝).  It’s always been one of my favorites, though I may be a little biased as a large portion of the movie takes place in my home state of Indiana. 😉 

Devils Tower features heavily into the plot of the film, so you can imagine how excited I was to learn it was nearby when we moved to the Black Hills.  The movie is relatively kid-friendly, aside from one (in my opinion) unnecessarily, frightening scene.  The aliens are more akin to those found in ET than Independence Day. 😉  

I STRONGLY recommend you check out the movie after visiting the tower, especially the Director’s Cut with all the deleted scenes.  The Special Edition version is actually my favorite, as it is the only one to include the fabled “Mothership Scene” at the end.  While Spielberg later regretted bowing to the film studio’s pressure and adding this scene in, it was always one of my favorites.  Think about the special effects that were required to make this scene and how few of them would have been available to Spielberg in the ’70s.  This was well before computer effects kiddos! 😳  And yes, once you hear it, that theme music will be an earworm that will drive you INSANE! 😝

Where is Devils Tower?

 The tower is pretty easy to reach from the Black Hills.  The directions are simple: drive west on I-90; follow the signs. 😉 

Driving through beautiful Wyoming

Though it does take a couple of hours, part of the reason we enjoy this trip so much is the drive (I’ve mentioned before how much I enjoy long drives through the countryside).  There are a couple of different routes you can take…

We like to form a loop where we take I-90 out (the quick way) to Sundance, get off on US 14 North, and take that to Route 24 North.  When we leave the site, we continue on Route 24 to the north (the scenic route) and take that all the way back to Belle Fourche, SD where you can pick up I-90 again.  The drive takes around 1.5 – 2 hours or so each direction, but boy is it worth it!  

This part of the country is, truly, God’s Country.  I love South Dakota, but the Wyoming countryside brings with it a new definition of wild and wonderful.  It’s so incredibly rugged (as is the weather!) and you’ll notice the change immediately after crossing the state line.  The red rocks form a distinct backdrop as they stand out in direct contrast to the dun-colored prairie.

Take the time to visit the Wyoming Black Hills, you’ll be glad you did! 

A dirt road skirts a brown-grass meadow. A bare, rocky mountain rises from the prairie in the far background.
We even got a nice view of Bear Butte on the way home!
What is your favorite legend for the creation of this unique monolith?  Let me know in the comments! 

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Humans Aren’t at the Top of the Food Chain

In this post, I discuss the humbling status of where humans rank on the food chain when we venture out into the Wilds.

 

The Trekkers had a unique experience when snowshoeing one early, spring day.  It was a humbling reminder that when we venture out into the Wilds, humans are NOT at the top of the food chain!

We were snowshoeing on the Deerfield Trail, just off the Mickelson Trail, in the central Black Hills of western South Dakota.  We were trudging down a forest road, just tromping along.  It was a lovely day!  The sun was shining in a bright blue sky, the birds were tweeting, we were happily enjoying our own, peaceful, little slice of paradise.  That all changed when we wandered around a bend in the road and came upon a deer…that had seen better days (or, at least, what was left of it). 😳  This was easily the most gruesome, mountain lion kill scene we’ve ever come across.   

I’ll spare you the grisly details, except to say it was a bit unnerving to see blood spatters scattered along a long span of the road.  It raises the hairs on the back of your neck a bit when you come upon this type of scene.  Our senses were immediately heightened to the possibility that we may not be alone out there, especially as mountain lions are known to guard their kills. (We never saw or heard any sign of the predator, fortunately.)  

There wasn’t much remaining of the deer other than the head and spinal column. While some birds were still snacking on the remnants, we assumed any larger predators had already had their fill and wouldn’t be returning, though we opted not to stick around to find out. 😝 

We assumed it was a mountain lion kill, as there weren’t many tracks to be found in the snow.  It appeared there may have been a coyote or two that had come by.  We surmised this due to tracks, and because big cats usually cache their kills.  However, in this case, lengthy drag marks had been left in the snow and the kill had been scattered over a wide area.  We didn’t see any obvious evidence of a coyote pack so it may have been a loner.  These critters have been known to scavenge and even try to steal kills from mountain lions (they are a lot braver–stupider?–than I am! 😝) 

I didn’t take any pictures, for obvious reasons.  I try to avoid putting anything too grisly on this blog, and it felt a bit disrespectful to the dead.  In a bit of an odd contrast, there was one interesting sight–amongst the gore–you could see marks left in the snow from where the wings of flying scavengers had whisked across it as they landed.  It felt odd to see something so beautiful in a scene so full of death.  

Humbled by Mortality

It’s humbling to view a sight like that.  This isn’t the first kill site we’ve ventured upon while traversing the Wilds, and I’m sure it won’t be our last.  Though it was one of the more bloody sites we’ve encountered, I have found my anxiety surrounding these situations continues to abate with repeated exposure.  We’re always careful to watch and listen for critters, and we don’t hang around these macabre scenes long.  

It seems brutal, but it’s a perfectly natural act.  The mountain lion gets hungry (and if it was a female, she may have either been pregnant and near birth, or may have been caring for newly born young in a den). 

The predators also provide a necessary check on the local deer population.  Without them, the number of deer would quickly grow out of control, to the point that the natural resources of the local area would be depleted and wouldn’t be able to sustain their large population.  This eventually leads to famine and starvation within the species (and possibly that of other animals living in the local area).  

So, this is, obviously, a necessary service.  I am reminded of when I was a child, and my family would watch the show “Nature”, every Sunday night on the local PBS station.  A favorite saying of one of the narrators was, “where there is something to eat, there will be something to eat it.” 😮

Nature Shows no Mercy

This situation offers a stark reality check and a reminder that nature isn’t kind.  It isn’t always pretty and it certainly isn’t always gentle.  It favors the strong at the expense of the weak.  Nature isn’t “fair” and it isn’t “compassionate”, it’s all about survival of the fittest.  We must remember this when we venture out into the wilderness, especially because this policy applies to us as well!

We must always respect Mother Nature when we set out to commune with Her.  We can never turn our back on Her because, when we embark on a wild adventure…we become part of the food chain…and we aren’t necessarily on top! 😳

How to Protect Yourself in the Wilderness

There are various methods you can use to protect yourself when out in the wild, some are more useful than others: 

Recreating alone is risky:  One of the biggest and easiest things to remember is that it is very risky to recreate solo.  This isn’t always a popular opinion, but I stand behind it 100%.  Not everyone has human companions to adventure with (consider this motivation for locating some!) while others truly enjoy their solitude and prefer to head out alone (or just with a four-legged friend).  

The bottom line is though, being out in the wilderness alone puts you at FAR greater risk of both injury and animal attack.  Cell phone service is frequently spotty in these areas and all it takes is one wrong step to sustain an injury that will make it impossible for you to hike out.  If you don’t have good cell service where you’re located, that leaves you with no choice but to crawl to a place you can get it.  This could require hundreds of feet (at a minimum) of dragging yourself over unforgiving terrain.  Your four-legged friend can’t offer much assistance in this instance either (no opposable thumbs 😝).  

If you can avoid injury, it is still more likely that you could be at risk of wild animal attack when alone.  Your four-legged friend will be able to assist in this matter, as you’ll both make noise to warn away any wild animals.  Your furry companion can also serve as a deterrent, though don’t allow them to antagonize a wild animal.  Moose, especially, hold no fear of dogs and will attack if they feel threatened.  

Any time you are present in a group (of at least two or more humans), you make more noise, that’s just physics.  Even if none of you speak, the sounds of your feet, or snowshoes, or skis (or paws) making their way through the environment, create quite the clamor. Humans are inadvertently loud, and we also stink of awful things like shampoo and soap. 😉  Animals know those smells and sounds aren’t “natural”, so they prefer to just avoid us if they know we’re around.  Venturing out in a group can really help with this.  

Firearms:  I will begin this portion of today’s lesson by admitting this is a controversial subject. 😝 (Anything said below is meant to be US-centric.  I can’t speak to any laws outside of the United States.)  

I’ve mentioned before that I lean Libertarian, so I fully support the 2nd Amendment and the responsible use of firearms.  This is a personal choice that we all must decide for ourselves.

HOWEVER–and I can’t stress this enough–“responsible use” means following ALL Federal, State, and local laws of the area where you are located (whether you agree with them or not).  Always remember that laws can vary greatly between states with lenient gun regulations (like South Dakota) and those with much stricter laws (such as California or Connecticut).  It is YOUR RESPONSIBILITY to educate yourself on the laws of the local area.  Ignorance is NOT an excuse.  

It should also be noted that according to the US Fish and Wildlife Service:

“Persons encountering grizzlies and defending themselves with firearms suffer injury about 50% of the time.  During the same period, persons defending themselves with pepper spray escaped injury most of the time, and those that were injured experienced shorter duration attacks and less severe injuries.”  

And on that happy note…

Bear Spray:  I am a big believer in this, though again, it must be used responsibly.  Bear spray is pepper spray, on steroids.  People and pets can be severely injured with it, so please, treat it with the respect it deserves.  Though it’s legal in most states, some have strict laws regarding its use, and again, it’s your responsibility to educate yourself on these.  

The biggest thing to remember with bear spray is to ONLY SPRAY DOWNWIND! (This may seem obvious, but in an intense situation, this crucial detail could be easily forgotten.)  If you spray into the wind, all you’ll succeed in doing is making yourself an incapacitated, pepper-flavored snack. 😝 

It should also be noted that this is NOT a bear repellant.  It should NEVER be used unless you feel an attack is likely/imminent and then only as a deterrent.  Educate yourself on the use of this product BEFORE it is needed.  

Another point to note, “bear spray” can be used on any animal that is posing a threat, it doesn’t have to be a bear. One thing I like about this method is that it is intended to be non-lethal.  It will, likely, cause intense pain to the animal, but any damage should be temporary.   

We should not be flippant about the use of bear spray; however, if it is used successfully, while the animal will be uncomfortable for a time, the experience will serve as an important and unpleasant reminder that getting too close to humans results in pain. The goal being, in the future, the animal will do all it can to completely avoid a human, to begin with.  This negative reinforcement is a behavioral method for deterring the animal. (Ever burn your hand by touching a hot stove when you were a kid?  Did you touch the stove again?  The same principle applies here. 😝)

Mother Nature Deserves Respect

I don’t bring this situation up to scare people.  I LOVE spending time in the wild (and that includes in “Big Cat” and “Grizzly Country”).  It can be such a rewarding experience, I want to encourage everyone to try their hand at enjoying it.  I just want people to keep in mind that when they do venture out, you are leaving behind the safety and security of our dull, civilized lives.  This is a good thing!  However, it is something that needs to be kept in mind and respected.  Follow these guidelines and you’ll increase your likelihood of having a safe, enjoyable adventure.  

Humans may not rank at the top of the food chain when we set out into the uncivilized, natural world and nature may be all about “survival of the fittest”.  Fortunately, we were blessed with intelligent brains that make up for what we lack in brawn.

Have you had any hair-raising experiences with animals in the Wild?  Tell me about them in the comments! 

 

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Conquer Lengthy Trails in Small Portions

In this post, I discuss how to build your self-confidence by “connecting the dots” and finishing portions of trails you haven’t conquered in the past.

 

Today I’m going to discuss the incredible feeling of accomplishment that comes from completing a lengthy trail in small, manageable portions, regardless of how many tries, trips, or years it takes to achieve that goal. 😁  Below I outline several different trails we’ve done sections of in the past and have finally “connected-the-dots” on.

Willow Creek/Rushmore Trail (Trail #5)

View through the woods of pine trees and tree-covered mountains in the background

 We completed the Willow Creek/Rushmore trail (Trail #5,) all the way to where it meets up with the Harney Trail {Trail #9, the hard way up Black Elk (formerly Harney) Peak}.  

This is really just a connector trail and not that big of a deal (though it’s a nice trek with lovely views).  It’s just such an accomplishment when you complete these various routes.  

The Willow Creek/Rushmore Trail was one I’ve been wanting to do for years.  Every time we’ve hiked the difficult Harney Trail (Trail #9), we’ve always used the Willow Creek turn-off as a bit of a landmark to watch for.  So, to finally connect the two was such a delight! 

This accomplishment was especially exhilarating as it was already getting snowy up that way and some of the knee-deep snow was a challenge to hike through–we hadn’t taken snowshoes that day as the lower elevations didn’t have any snow and we didn’t know how much we’d be encountering.

Eagle Cliff Trails in the Black Hills

After numerous tries throughout multiple seasons, we finally completed several sections of various trails in the Eagle Cliff area. 

We’ve enjoyed parts of these trails in previous years–sometimes skiing, sometimes snowshoeing, sometimes mountain biking–but we’ve never fully connected them all.  In the past, we failed to complete the entire loop as we’ve always turned around due to being tired, being cold, or losing the trail.**

This time, however, we started with the Hamburger Snowshoe Route (who comes up with these names?! 😝); took that to Lily Park Trailhead; then continued on to the Holey Rock Trail.  We then looped back to the Bratwurst Ski Trail and brought that all the way back to our starting point–not to worry, we stayed off the ski trails. 😇 (Another group had, kindly, already blazed a snowshoe trail alongside the main road that we were able to follow. 😁)

**As much as we love the Eagle Cliff area, we’ve frequently lost our trail up there.  This has occurred both in the summer and the winter months and has actually been worse in the summer (the tall grasses don’t do much to suggest a trail.  At least in the winter, there are, oftentimes, other tracks to follow!)  Fortunately, we’ve never gotten lost to the point of being in trouble, we were always able to retrace our steps and find our way back.  Sometimes too, we’ve been able to spot the valley we were seeking from a ways off and reach it via off-trail routes.  

I do believe some of this was due to poor signage, the old maps were difficult to read and often sun-faded, or they were an inaccurate match with the current trails that year.  The new ones seem far more clear.  The trail blazes on the trees also seem to be closer together and better-marked now.  It could also be that we’re finally getting comfortable with the area as we’ve completed so many of the trails.  

Related posts:  Cross-Country Skiing at Big Hill, Spearfish, SDWinter Activities at Eagle Cliff

To Conclude

The point to discussing all this is that, if there is a difficult or lengthy trail (or set of trails) you’re interested in, but they seem too challenging or long for you to accomplish in one sitting, complete them in sections!  It still counts as mastering the entire monster, even if you don’t do it all in one try!
Start from one end and try to make it halfway.  Then, on another occasion, start from the other end and make it halfway again.  You just finished the entire thing, even if you only ever did half a section at a time!  

I have a few other, personal examples of this in relation to local trails.  The Trekkers are aiming to hike the entire, 111-mile-long, Centennial Trail that traverses the length of the Black Hills.  We also want to bike the entirety of the Mikelson Trail, the 109-mile-long, graded, gravel path that spans the Hills, from north to south.  It follows an old railroad grade, leftover from the Gold Rush days of yesteryear.   It’s taken us more than a decade, but so far we’ve completed over half of the Centennial Trail and almost the same amount for the Mikelson.  

With routes that are quite lengthy, numerous trailheads often split them up into more manageable sections.  Completing one several-mile section every few months is far simpler than attempting an entire 25-mile trail all at once.  

We’ve even split up single sections before.  There is a 14-mile portion of the Mikelson trail that we’ve just never been able to finish all at once.  We HAVE completed it using the “halfway method” mentioned above, starting from each direction, though.  

This technique is also a good way to keep your spirits and enthusiasm up.  It’s much easier to stay motivated if you’re not trying to psych yourself up for a crazy excursion, but instead, a fun, shorter, one-day outing.  

With this post, I want to stress that you don’t have to be a marathon recreator.  It’s perfectly reasonable to be more of a “sprinter”, who feels a five-mile outing is a perfectly acceptable definition of a “full day”.  When you’re out on the trail you aren’t competing with anyone or anything else (with the exception of Mother Nature, of course).  Your only rival is yourself. So, don’t compare yourself to others.  The only thing that matters is that you’re improving your skills, your strength, and your health–both mental and physical–along with it.  

The other caveat is, of course, that you’re having fun!  As long as you’re getting out, connecting with the natural world, working off the steam of any built-up, negative energy, and you’re accomplishing the goals you have set for yourself, that’s the only thing that’s really important.  

You’ll find achieving goals is also quite the confidence booster, as you’re pushing yourself and meeting challenges. (If you are the marathoner-type person who can go out and accomplish 20 miles in one sitting, mad points to you too! 😉)

So, what are you waiting for?  Get out there and accomplish some goals and in the process, boost your confidence by finishing​ what you start!   

Have you conquered lengthy trails in small sections?  Tell me about it in the comments!

 

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Hiking the Robber’s Roost Trail, Custer State Park

In this post, I review two adventures where we learned the value in seeking out the “boring” locales, even on “less-than-ideal” days.

 

Author’s Note: The Trekkers originally hiked the Robber’s Roost Trail in Custer State Park on a foggy, mild, January day.  Many of the pictures below are from that trip.  We have since returned in warmer weather and found it to be equally enjoyable so I’ve added a few more pictures! 

Is it cold out, or windy, or really hot, or raining…then it’s not a good day to spend outside, right?…or is it?

The Robber’s Roost Trail, in Custer State Park, can be enjoyed in almost ANY weather!

One thing anyone who lives near mountainous terrain can tell you is the weather can change at a moment’s notice–which can be both good and bad–and it can vary greatly between nearby locations.  The Trekkers have experienced this frequently. 

One particular January day our local area was socked in with heavy, freezing fog.  It was a damp, 30ish-degrees so it wasn’t exactly ideal for being out (though the hoarfrost on the trees was beautiful!)  

Previous experience has shown us how variable our local weather can be, dependent on terrain.  Due to this, we knew the weather in the Black Hills could be far different than what we were currently experiencing in town (being married to a meteorologist who can look up conditions in certain areas helps too 😉).  So, we decided to try out the Robber’s Roost Trail in Custer State Park.  We knew, at the worst, we would be able to enjoy a pretty drive and could get some nice hiking in, while at the best the weather could be FAR different as we climbed in elevation.  Boy, was it!

A Foggy Drive through Custer State Park

As we headed for the park, Mr. Trekker made the prediction that we’d emerge from the fog shortly after passing the entrance sign (where the road begins to gain in elevation)…he was right on the money! (I’m gonna channel Johnny Depp from Pirates of the Caribbean and state, “There’ll be no living with him now.” 😝)  

As we headed toward our trailhead, we made several stops for photo opportunities of the gorgeous hoarfrost the freezing fog had left behind.  I can’t quite explain why, but that natural occurrence utterly fascinates me.  The way the frozen crystals cling to the local flora can cause a smooth piece of bark to look almost furry.  It reminds me of the tiny hairs on a spider’s legs.  

Close-up view of bare tree branches that are covered in frosty needles of ice
Isn’t this incredible?

Close-up view of a dirt path that runs through a brown-grass meadow with frost covering the individual grass stems. Pine trees appear through fog in the background.

Close-up view of tiny pine trees in a brown-grass meadow with frost covering the individual grass stems. Pine trees appear through fog in the background.

Hiking the Robber’s Roost Trail

When we arrived at our trailhead, the sun was shining brightly, and continued to do so…for the remainder of the afternoon!  We had many opportunities to view the fog bank below us, in the lower elevations, but it never reached our altitude until the very end of our trek.  By then, we had returned to the car and were wandering about, seeking out prime picture opportunities.  😁

A dirt path runs through a brown-grass meadow with pine tree-covered hillsides in the background. Fog rises over the trees and hills in the far background, all under a clear, blue sky.
The fog is coming!

A brown-grass meadow with pine tree-covered hillsides in the background. Fog rises over the trees and hills in the far background, all under a clear, blue sky.

A single, pine tree sits on a brown-grass hill with smoke rising over the pine trees in the valley behind, all under a clear, blue sky.
It was incredible, watching the fog slowly rise from the lower elevations.

A brown-grass meadow with pine tree-covered hillsides in the background. Fog rises over the trees and hills in the far background, all under a clear, blue sky with a foggy sun shining through.

The trail isn’t anything exciting, it’s just an old fire road that winds through prairie land, around and over hills throughout the park, but we had a great time!  

The scenery used to be more picturesque, but after the large, Legion Lake Fire that swept through this area in December 2017, this portion of the park now consists, mainly, of a burn scar.  For this reason, be aware, that in the warmer months, there is very little shade.  You should be prepared for hot conditions.   

If you’re looking for some additional fun activities to check out in Custer State Park, click here!

Where is the Robber’s Roost Trailhead?

The trailhead is located in the southern portion of Custer State Park, off of Oak Draw Road (just to the east of the Prairie Trail trailhead).  You can reach that road from the southern arm of the Wildlife Loop Road (Route 16A).  

The hike just follows an old, forest road, out-and-back, though it can be combined with other old roads, in the local area.  These would make for a great hike, horseback, or mountain bike ride. (We’re planning to try this route on our bikes soon!) 

A dog looks down a brown-grass hillside over an expanse of other hills in the distance, all covered by trees that appear to have been burnt.
Puppers enjoying the hike!
A dirt lane traverses a brown-grass hillside with a lone, pine tree on it's side and tree-covered hills in the background--some of the trees appear burnt.
You can see the burn scar in the distance

Below is a short video I took, at the end of the hike, of the coyotes’ haunting song that seemed to welcome the fog as it silently slipped back up the mountainside…(turn the sound up for this one!):

Below are a few more pictures of our trek.  Thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker, for several of the pictures!

Picture looks black & white. Leafless trees and a milky sun appear through the fog

The sun shines through whispy fog as it rises above hills
To me, this picture feels otherworldly, like smoke rising from a scorched landscape (it is just fog).
A fog bow forms over a fog-covered trees under a clear, blue sky
Fogbow!
2 hiking boots covered in mud on the ground
Did I mention this trail can get a “bit” muddy? 😳😁

In Conclusion

Don’t be afraid to seek out the “boring” or “go-nowhere” treks, they can sometimes offer some surprises of their own.  We enjoyed a great–albeit INCREDIBLY muddy–hike (basically in shirt sleeves)…in mid-January…in SOUTH DAKOTA!  Whereas, if we had stayed at home, we may have felt depressed by the cold, damp, foggy day.  So don’t be afraid to Get Out While the Gettin’s…Bad!

Have you had a positive experience where you ventured outdoors when the weather was less than perfect?  Tell me about it in the comments!

 

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Hike the Sunday Gulch Trail in Custer State Park

In this post, I review the Sunday Gulch Trail, in Custer State Park, near Sylvan Lake.

 

As part of the incredible trail system offered by Custer State Park, the Sunday Gulch Trail is a must-hike!  You will find the trailhead located behind the large rocks at the back of Sylvan Lake,  off the Sylvan Lake Shore Trail.  

Note:  this trail is closed in the winter months due to ice buildup from the nearby creek.  

Hiking the Sunday Gulch Trail

This loop trail is around three miles long and can be completed in either direction. 

I suggest taking the right fork at the trailhead.  This way, you’ll complete the most difficult portion of the hike first, and you’ll be doing it heading downhill.  You will still end your trek with an uphill climb, but it will be far less strenuous than the alternate option. 

Traveling this direction, the early portion of the trail is comprised of steps and large boulders that must be navigated—there is a handrail—as you make your way down the ravine.  Once you reach the bottom, the path is relatively easy and flat while you traverse a canyon; until the final climb back to Sylvan Lake at the top.

In the hotter months, be prepared for a hot hike!  Due to the gulch-like nature of the terrain, cool summer breezes often miss this area. Fortunately, the surrounding foliage provides significant shade opportunities (except when the sun is high, in the middle of the day).  

As you continue down the canyon, your trek will eventually begin to wind uphill when you commence the final, LONG ascent back to the lake.  The path is well-trodden and fairly smooth/free of debris, but it’s a long hill back to Sylvan Lake.  You will hear more road noise on this portion of the trail as it parallels Route 87.  

Pine trees with rock formations rising behind them
A view of the surrounding peaks from the top/end of the trail

Things you will see on the Sunday Gulch Trail

The trail is beautiful.  As you descend into the ravine, granite cliffs tower far above you on both sides, while a bubbling brook accompanies you the entire way.  

Once you reach the bottom of the gully, continue following the creek as it winds its way through the canyon.  This area is very peaceful as there is little road noise–the only main route, nearby, is Route 87, and that snakes along the edge of the ridge far above you.    

Rear view of a woman climbing down rocks while holding onto a metal railing
The Tranquil Trekker, navigating the steep, boulder section of the trail, through the ravine

Use caution when the path is wet, due to rain or snowmelt, as the creek often gushes across it when the water level is high.  Even in late spring, be prepared for the possibility of ice where the route traverses the deep ravine, as it doesn’t get sufficient sunlight throughout much of the day.

Traction devices, such as Yaktrax, are highly recommended unless you are hiking this trail at the height of summer. (Click here for more information on these awesome traction devices!)      

This trek can be managed by smaller children and pets, but they may require assistance with the really, rocky portions of the trail. 

As it combines bouldering with a relaxing jaunt through the forest, this fun hike contains a wide selection of scenery and is a must-see for those wanting a bit more adventure.  If you’re looking for a challenging and fun hiking trail on your visit to Custer State Park, check out the Sunday Gulch Trail near Sylvan Lake!  

Have you hiked this awesome trail?  Tell me about your experience in the comments!

 

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Hike the Norbeck Trail in Custer State Park

I review the Norbeck Trail, a low-use trail in the higher elevations of the Black Hills, near Custer State Park.

 

The Norbeck Trail is a beautiful, lesser-traveled hiking route situated within the Black Elk Wilderness.  This is found within the boundaries of Custer State Park in the Black Hills of South Dakota. 

How do you get to the Norbeck Trail in Custer State Park?

There are actually two trailheads to access the Norbeck Trail:

If you want a shorter hike and want to hit the more difficult, steeper sections sooner (while you have more energy) the Upper Norbeck trailhead comes first. It is located about .3 miles east of Sylvan Lake and about .1 miles east of the trailhead for the Cathedral Spires (all on the Needles Highway, Route 87.)

It’s kind of hard to find the trailhead because you can’t see it from the road and there isn’t any sign. Basically, once you pass the trailhead for the Cathedral Spires, start watching for a paved lane going off to the left. That’s the trailhead. (Sorry, that’s about the best description I can give. 😝)

To reach the main Norbeck trailhead, take Route 87 to Forest Road 345 (Camp Remington Road).  Then take Iron Creek Horse Camp Road (which will be on your left).  Watch for signs for the Iron Creek Horse Camp and the Iron Creek Centennial Trailhead as they’re both, also, found on this road.  You will actually park at the horse camp, or just outside of it if the gates are closed (when we were there in mid-April the campground was still closed for the winter.)

Note: the Needles Highway is closed to vehicle traffic during the winter months. You can hike, snowshoe or ski it though (which can be a lot of fun!) 

What you will see on the Norbeck Trail, in the Black Hills

The trail is comprised of picturesque, rolling terrain.  It’s well-marked and wide enough for two people to walk side-by-side in some places.  There are several water crossings that are small enough that they’re easy to cross but big enough to offer relief and respite on a hot day. 

The ecology found along the length of the trail varies greatly from moist, almost temperate rainforest near the base, to dry, alpine forest near the top. 

As you trek through these various ecosystems take note of the abundance of spruce trees in certain areas–usually on the northern slopes–that denote a wetter climate (you usually only see this variety in wetter locations in the Hills.)  

What is the difficulty level of the Norbeck Trail?

The route is steep in parts, but the elevation changes are fairly moderate until you near the terminus of the trail where it joins with the Little Devils Tower trail.  These last 2.5 miles of the trail gain 1000 feet in elevation! (To compare, we gained the same elevation amount on the Misty Moon trail in the Bighorn mountains of Wyoming over the course of five miles!) 

This more difficult area is beautiful, though, as it snakes through a canyon complete with rocky, craggy overhangs and caves.  You’ll see the backside of the Cathedral Spires towering over you to your left, and if you turn around you will be treated to beautiful views of the Southern Hills and plains to the south.

A word of advice: never let your focus on completing a trail keep you from looking around–and behind you!  You never know what incredible views you may be missing if you’re solely focusing on the trail in front of you.

Pine trees and tree-covered mountains. Spindly rock on top of a mountain are in the far background
The rear view of the Cathedral Spires.

This trail doesn’t really “go” anywhere, per se, it’s more of a connector to other notable trails.   It can be combined with different routes to form various loops depending on how long you wish to spend in the Wilderness Area.  From the trailhead to the junction with the Little Devil’s Tower Trail, the route is a little over five miles (one way)–and as mentioned above it gets steep–so plan for a full day’s hike when considering this option. 

We really enjoyed the hike and the ever-changing scenery was beautiful.  There were some gorgeous vantage points and numerous opportunities for wildlife sightings.  This trail is less well-known and, therefore, more secluded. 

A portion of the trek does run near Route 87, for a time, so the summer months may be busier.  Certain areas of the trail also traverse old burn scars so, if traveling in the summer, be prepared for lack of shade and a hot hike in some parts.

Person stands in an open space amongst deadfall of trees. A few scraggly pine trees remain standing. Rock mountains are in the far background
You can see the sparseness of the shade in some areas.

As with many other areas in the Black Hills, be watchful for deadfall as well as dead trees that remain, precipitously, standing (and their hanging, broken branches).  These are remnants of the recent pine beetle infestation, and they can fall at any time, even on not-so-windy days.    

A few scraggly pine trees standing amonst deadfall. Rock mountains are in the far background
Damage from the recent pine beetle infestation

If you’re looking for a fairly easy day hike, with nice views and few people, consider the Norbeck Trail!  

Have you ever hiked this lighter-use trail?  If so, tell me about your experience in the comments!

 

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Rimrock Trail Black Hills

In this post, I review Rimrock Trail, that traverses the canyon walls, floor and crest of Spearfish Canyon.

 

Located along the crest and walls of Spearfish Canyon, in the northern Black Hills of South Dakota, is Rimrock Trail–Trail #79. (This route also now offers access to the recently organized Tinton Trail that traverses this area, as well.)  

Where is Rimrock Trail?

You can access the route via several different trailheads.  The easiest is to use Forest Road 222 from the tiny hamlet of Savoy, at the junction of Spearfish and Little Spearfish Canyons.  

From the Spearfish Canyon Byway turn at the Spearfish Canyon Lodge.  Once you drive past the final pullout for Roughlock Falls, start looking for parking areas–there are several. (If you reach the T-intersection with Tinton Road you’ve gone too far.) 

The parking areas are near the Rod & Gun and Timon Campgrounds, on the right-hand side of the road.  Be watchful as they are VERY small–they only fit about two vehicles each.  Also, some of the trailhead signs are recessed into the woods a bit, so they’re easy to miss.  

Rear view of a woman walking on a trail through a grove of yellow aspen trees and green grass.
The Tranquil Trekker traverses an “Aspen Tunnel”!

There is easy, trail access from the Rod & Gun and Timon Campgrounds, as well, though there are technically no “official” trailheads here.  If you want to avoid the crowds near Savoy, you can also take Tinton Road north from US 85 as it heads west out of Lead (towards Wyoming) and turn right onto Roughlock Falls Road, heading towards the falls (in this case the trailheads will be on your left before you reach the falls).  

There is another access point to this route from a spur trail that begins at the Old Baldy trailhead and parking area, which is found further along Tinton Road.  From here you will actually approach the canyon from the top.  This portion of the trail is relatively flat.

What is the Rimrock Trail like? 

The trail is comprised of two loops, the Upper Loop is 4.7 miles long and the Lower Loop is  3.2 miles.  We enjoyed both, and doing so means you’ll experience around a 700-foot total elevation change (the trail is fairly flat, the entire elevation change is mostly contained within an area of 1/2 mile or so, twice, throughout the hike–once descending and once ascending the canyon wall).  

This area is open for hiking, snowshoeing, horseback riding, and mountain biking.  The trails can be enjoyed year-round with proper equipment, though be aware, Route 222 is closed in the winter to all vehicles other than snowmobiles.

Tinton Road is not usually maintained in this area during the winter either, so, its accessibility varies depending on current conditions.  In addition to the weather, these include the vehicle you’re driving, the recovery gear you’ve got at your disposal, and your experience level with 4×4 driving.  We’ve traversed it successfully, but we’ve also gotten stuck, to the point where we would have had to be rescued had we not had proper recovery gear with us.   

What you will see on the Rimrock Trail

The trail offers GORGEOUS aspen groves that are especially lovely in Fall (take note, this area is one of the higher elevations in the Hills and trees usually change earlier here.)  The trek also features canyons and open meadows that are perfect for a stop for lunch. 

This area used to be fairly well-shaded.  Unfortunately, it has been hit by multiple tornadoes in recent years so now there are several bare spots where the trees once stood. 😕

We started from the eastern, Lower Loop, trailhead (the first one you come to when traveling from Savoy.)  Beginning the hike from here, the climb isn’t as steep, whereas if you start from the western trailhead the trek gets VERY steep almost immediately.  Due to the grade of that climb, that area would be very difficult and potentially risky if it was muddy.  

A dirt path winds through yellow aspen trees and green grass with pine trees in the background, all under a blue sky.

From where we began, it was amazing how quickly the ecosystems changed from a cool, damp, almost rainforest-type environment to the dryer, warmer, ponderosa pine forest and meadows common to the rest of western South Dakota.  The trail also offers expansive views of the canyon and surrounding countryside once you reach the crest. 

Going this direction, the final stretch of the route is easy and almost flat (which is nice when your energy is running low) as it traverses the floor of the canyon.  The babbling Little Spearfish Creek accompanies you the entire way.  Feel free to stop for a spell and soak your tired feet in the cool water, or watch minnows dart in and out of the sun-dappled shallows. 

You’ll pass a filming site from the movie Dances with Wolves (from the final scene in the film).  The origin of the 1997 White House Christmas Tree and the remains of an abandoned ranger station/homestead can be seen in this area, as well.

A grove of yellow, aspen trees with green grass and pine trees in the background all under a blue sky dotted with white, fluffy clouds.

This really is a great trail!  It’s one of the better options to experience the various ecosystems western South Dakota has to offer and it’s also very pretty.  The canyon portions remind me of those I’ve mentioned previously on the Deerfield Trail.  

In the fall, you can enjoy some of the best leaf viewing the Black Hills has to offer without having to negotiate all the traffic and visitors to the main portion of Spearfish Canyon.  During the autumn months, the yellow of the aspen contrasted with the dark ever-green of the pine trees; the brown bark of fallen logs; the incredible South Dakota blue sky, and the white puffy clouds (with red creekside plants speckled throughout the canyon areas) truly creates an iconic scene.  

I would rate the entirety of the trail as moderate (though several of the flatter portions are actually easy).  The climb up and down the canyon wall is relatively short but it’s steep enough for a strenuous rating, especially in less-than-superb conditions.  Because the trail can be divided into shorter sections, it is appropriate for smaller children, though they may need some assistance negotiating the steeper portions.  

A creek runs through yellow, green and red, fall foilage with pine trees in the backgound.
The view as you’re descending to the creek (creekside areas seem to be about the only place to reliably see red color in the Hills in the fall)

If you’re seeking a less well-known hike in the Hills, check out Rimrock Trail!

Have you ever hiked in this area?  What did you think?  Tell me about your experience in the comments!

 

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Black Elk Peak, Trail #9 (the Difficult, Northern Route)

In this post, I detail our attempts to conquer Trail #9, the difficult/northern route up Black Elk Peak.

 

Black Elk Peak, formerly Harney Peak, is the highest point in the Black Hills and one of the most sought-after hikes in this area. 

In case you aren’t aware of it (and as I outlined in this post), the name of this mountain changed just a few years ago and they’re still working on updating all the signs and maps.  

There are multiple trail options for getting to the summit.  The most popular route is the southern portion of Trail #9, the Black Elk Peak Trail, that starts at Sylvan Lake.  However, in this post, I’m going to talk about the far less-traveled (and far more difficult) northern portion of this same trail.

It is a little confusing because the names are the same.  Be watchful for this (there are signs!)}  This portion of the trail is actually shorter than the southern route, but it is far steeper, which is why it is more difficult.  

Accessing the Black Elk Peak Northern Route Trailhead

There are a number of ways to access this portion of the trail.  One of the easiest is from the Willow Creek Horse Camp off of Route 244.  You will find it directly across the road from the Mount Rushmore KOA campground (and around six miles west of Mount Rushmore. 

The Willow Creek Trail is an easy and fairly short loop that makes for a great, quick hike.  It is only around two miles in length and you can enjoy it in either direction.  You will need to start on the Willow Creek Trail to reach the Black Elk Peak Trail which branches off about halfway through the Willow Creek loop.   

1st Attempt to Conquer Black Elk Peak, the Hard Way

We’re standing at Black Elk Peak, we’ve been on the trail for five hours, the guidebook we’d consulted said the trail options we chose were only around eight, total miles long.  We now KNOW that can’t be right as our GPS says we’re well over five miles into the hike and we’ve only reached the summit.  It’s 5 p.m. and…it’s starting to drizzle…  

We had used the Lost Cabin trailhead off Palmer Creek Road to ascend the mountain on this attempt.  We weren’t sure if we’d make it the whole way or just turn back at some point, but at lunchtime, we were nearly four miles in and the book had said it was only an eight-mile trek so…this is a lesson in listening to your gut.  When your guidebook (and/or GPS) say one thing, but while looking at the map and using human logic your gut says another…ALWAYS listen to your gut!  😝

Fortunately, it was Memorial Day weekend so we had guaranteed daylight until 8:30 pm or so, and we had headlamps with us. (This was one of the only, true, “uh oh” moments I’ve ever had on a trail.  The thought crossed my mind that we could be facing a long, cold night.).   

We did, eventually, make it down safely, and with daylight remaining.  We even managed to save one set of dry pants, each, to change into when we got back to the car!

After descending this trail in drier conditions, I’m somewhat impressed we made it down as safely and easily as we did.  Water trickles over the large, boulder steps on sunny days, so, on rainy days, it can turn into a veritable river in spots! 

The path is steep and technical enough on its own, in the rain and growing darkness, it can get muddy and slippery very quickly–portions of it literally turn into mini-waterfalls from water running down the slope!  I thank Mr. Trekker for suppressing my tendency to rush…I hate this trail.  😝  

This trail system is a beast!  Mr. Trekker and I almost had a dead limb fall on us on another, nearby trail during a hike a few years ago, on a day that wasn’t particularly windy. 😳

A large tree limb lies across a dirt path that meanders through the woods
This big guy is the one that almost fell on us!
IMG_0397
See the limb?  See the trail?  About five minutes before this fell we walked through this area.  We then stopped for some lunch and were startled by the “CRASH!” when it fell!

2nd Attempt to Conquer Black Elk Peak’s North Route

It’s a beautiful, sunny day.  We began hiking fairly early in the morning.  One problem with Trail #9 is its exposure.  It used to be fairly shaded…until the pine beetles had their way.  That and the resultant logging to lessen the danger of falling, dead trees has culminated in A LOT of sun exposure.  Fortunately, a breeze is often present…but not always…  

The heat got the Trekkers on this day (especially me).  I’ve mentioned before that I don’t do well with heat. We made it about halfway to the summit, to the point where it really starts to get difficult.

I call this “the Boulder Section” because you have to clamber across a long length of boulders while negotiating a rather steep incline–this is the section that becomes mini-waterfalls in wetter conditions.

After this section comes the first phase of mind-numbing switchbacks (that’s right, I said FIRST! 😝)  You then proceed to a flatter section, before the final phase of switchbacks, which takes you to the junction with the Black Elk Peak Summit Trail (a short, spur trail).  

About the time we reached the “Boulder Section”, I started suffering from stomach cramps and nausea, similar to what I experienced when I became overheated hiking in Glacier National Park several years ago.  Due to this, we made the wise decision to turn back…have I mentioned that I HATE THIS TRAIL?! 😩  

3rd Attempt…SUCCESS!!!

It’s a, fairly cool, July day (lower 80’s).  Earlier that week we had returned from a 10-day trip to the Colorado High Country that I outlined in these four posts.  Due to hanging out at 8000 – 10,000 feet throughout that trip, we were especially acclimated to the altitude. (Black Elk Peak, at a little over 7000 feet, is not only the highest peak in the Black Hills, but it is also the highest peak in the country east of the Rockies).  I honestly felt in my gut that if I ever hoped to vanquish this monster, this was the time to do it.  All conditions were perfect, we were both feeling great and it was a beautiful day!  

We made it through the easy, early section with no difficulty.  We happily said “hello” to others on the trail, and avoided the occasional “remnant” from horses that had gone before us. 🤥  We reached “the Boulder Section”…my first nemesis.  We conquered that fairly easily as well!  

Then, we reached the first section of switchbacks.  Fortunately, the shade was on our side at that time of the day.  It was starting to hurt…but we made it through.

The next section traverses a ridge that parallels Black Elk Peak, so it is fairly flat.  This is beneficial as it’s also fairly exposed.  

This area affords lovely views of the crags that lord over you from nearby peaks, and the panoramic vistas of the plains to the east (on clear days).  Buzzards soar on the thermals high above your head (waiting for beleaguered hikers to falter? 🤔) There are also several, lovely, lookout points along the way that make for a great break/lunch spot.  We stopped at a couple, both on the trek up and down the mountain.

Rear view of a woman in hiking gear, standing on a large rock, looking out over a mountainous vista, all under a blue sky.

Then…we hit the final section of switchbacks.  Both of us had just started feeling the altitude a bit (we were pushing 7000 feet at that point).  This was the only spot where I started feeling ill.  Fortunately, it was still early afternoon and we were in a shaded, quiet area, so we were able to take some time to rest and recover.  

And then…

…we began our final push…

…as we rounded one, final switchback…

…and crested one, final rise in the trail…

…we saw a brown sign appear in the distance, indicating our destination was just ahead…

…WE HAD MADE IT!!! 😁  

A wooden sign on a wooden post in the woods that reads, "Harney Peak, Tr. 9" and "Sylvan Lake 3.5", both with arrows pointing to the correct direction
My ray of hope, the sign at the top of the trail!

Seriously ya’ll, I almost broke down in tears!  I get emotional now, just thinking about it.  It had taken us three attempts to conquer this beast!

I maintain this is the toughest trail I’ve ever completed in the entire Black Hills.  It has a reputation for being “a doozy”.  It’s long, it’s difficult, it’s exposed, and the weather can change at a moment’s notice.  Fog and rain can seep in, which is an experience unto itself. (You won’t have the grand vistas that you’ll see on clearer days, but the granite columns materializing through the mist create a spooky gloom that is definitely worth experiencing, just watch your footing!)    

Descending the Northern Route of Black Elk Peak

On the way down…we ran out of water (seriously).  With the exception of another difficult trek in Glacier National Park, this almost NEVER happens!  We usually return with a liter or so left in each of our water bladders.  

It was projected to be a fairly cool day and we wanted to limit weight as much as possible– due to the strenuous hike–so we didn’t fill them quite to their max, fill line.  I will NEVER make that mistake, in July, again!  

Fortunately, by the time we ran out, we were only about 1.5 miles from the trailhead, it was all downhill from there and we had reached the easier portion of the trek. (Also, fortunately, a gas station in Hill City, the nearest town, had LARGE Gatorades for sale! 😜

 

Have I mentioned that I HATE this trail?!  I don’t think I’ve ever said that about a hike before.  I am SO GLAD that we finally beat this brute, but seriously, I don’t know that I’d do it again.  

I may consider it with two cars, one parked at Sylvan Lake so you can take the easy route up, and the other parked at Willow Creek trailhead as descending the hard route isn’t too bad…as long as it isn’t raining. 😝  (Or, find a nice friend who will shuttle you between the two points).  Or I would try ascending the Lost Cabin trail and descending this one again.  

Below are some pics from our day of achievement! 😁 (Thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker for some of these!)

View over a forested mountainside with lots of dead trees. At the top of the mountain sits a silhouette of a stone building.
Our first glimpse of the fire tower on the summit!
View over a forested, mountainside vista with lots of dead trees.
My Hills!  You can see the sparseness of the foliage in the foreground.
View over a forested, mountainside vista with lots of dead trees. Flatter plains are in the far background through the haze. Random, rock mountains rise from the surrounding forest.
If you look closely, you can see the plains, far in the distance.  I “think” one of those rock faces is the backside of Mt. Rushmore! 🤔
View through sparse pine trees of large, craggy rocks, all under a clear, blue sky
This view of the nearby crags is on the first set of switchbacks
A standing, dead, tree trunk that has had the bark and most of the trunk chewed/whittled away in the middle, stands in the sparse forest, all under a clear, blue sky
Not really sure what happened here?!  Deer or elk perhaps?  Looks like somebody has been gnawing on it!

Conquer Fear by Reaching your Goals

This trail had beaten us twice before, but we had finally defeated it!  If we hadn’t already been acclimated to the altitude, it may have won again.  This was a personal goal of mine that I had wanted to achieve for years! 

This trail had made me sick, it left me with (several) blisters, it hurt me, it caused lingering anxiety to even think of attempting it again, and it pushed the limits of my endurance.  But…I beat it!  

Reaching this goal was an incredibly empowering, inspiring experience.  This was, truly, my “white whale”.  It’s hard to express my sense of accomplishment for finally completing this hike.  I know others have done it and claim it “isn’t that bad”.  I know it’s not a “14-er”, but so what?  I don’t hike “14-ers”! 😉  This was a personal goal and desire I had set for myself and I had achieved it!  What could be more empowering than that!

I don’t mean to sound like I’m bragging.  My point is just that, each person has their own, personal goals, whether they be to learn a new skill, to conquer a specific challenge, etc.  

Don’t compare yourself to others.  Only be concerned that you push yourself to expand your comfort zone.  It doesn’t matter what the goal is, as long as you strive to achieve it and, perhaps, find a way to trounce a few personal demons along the way.  👊

Have you attempted this trail?  What other difficult goals have you set for yourself and achieved?  Tell me about your experiences in the comments! 

 

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Rear view of a woman in hiking gear, standing on a large rock, looking out over a mountainous vista, all under a blue sky. Pin reads, "Hiking Black Elk Peak, the Difficult, Northern Route"

 

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Big Pine Trailhead Loop in the Black Hills

In this post, I review the Big Pine trail near Mount Rushmore in South Dakota.

One of the Trekkers’ favorite loop hikes in the Black Hills is found at the Big Pine trailhead.  It takes you through some lower elevations of the Black Hills, as well as a scenic canyon. 

Where is the Big Pine Trailhead?

The  Big Pine trailhead is located about 30 minutes from Rapid City on Route 244, approximately three miles west of Mount Rushmore and 1/2 mile west of Horsethief Lake.  If you’re traveling west on 244, you’ll see the parking area for the trailhead on your right shortly after passing the entrance to the Horsethief Lake Campground.  

This loop encompasses part of the larger Black Hills Centennial Trail which actually travels both directions from this trailhead.  We usually take the Centennial Trail (#89) south until it connects with the Horsethief Lake Trail (#14).  We then take this route back to the Horsethief Campground–the middle portion of the trail also runs along with the Willow Creek Trail (#5).

This loop does require you to walk along Route 244 or through the Horsethief Lake campground, and then hike off-trail through the forest for about 1/2 mile to return to the Big Pine trailhead.  It is very doable though.  

I would suggest staying off the road as it winds a good deal through this area and has no real shoulder, so drivers’ views can be impaired.  You can easily hike through the forest, though, while keeping the road in sight, so as not to lose your way.  The entire trip runs a little over 3.5 miles and takes 2 – 3 hours depending on your speed, how often you stop, etc.

What you’ll see hiking the Big Pine Loop Trail

This is a lovely trail that can be enjoyed throughout the year.  It can be completed in either direction, though traversing it counterclockwise and ending with the Horsethief Lake portion of the trail seems to allow for the least amount of climbing, so that route is the option we prefer.

Traveling counterclockwise on the trail, it starts with an uphill climb.  Then it levels off as it parallels a creek for a peaceful jaunt through a narrow canyon as an imposing rock ledge looms overhead.  I always imagine we’ll spot a big cat sunning itself on the ledges, though we’ve never seen one (we have seen tracks near the creek, however.).  This portion of the trek can become rather overgrown during the summer months.  

Moss and yellow-leaf covered boulders dappled in sunlight with tree trunks coming out of them
A view of the rocks found on the trail near Horsethief Lake

Near the path’s end, the hike takes you through picturesque, rocky outcroppings before you descend with the creek back to Horsethief Lake.  Be warned, much of the Horsethief Lake trail is in a shaded area.  The descent of the creek makes for a delightful frozen waterfall environment that lasts well into spring, but the nearby rocks that the trail traverses also become layered with ice and can be VERY slippery.  This is not a difficult trail but the ice can make it hazardous even into late spring.  We always bring Yaktrax with us when enjoying it at that time of year.

The canyon and creek portions of the trek are mostly shaded so they allow for a cooler hike in the summer months and offer lovely color viewing opportunities in the fall.  This trail can also be combined with others in the local area including further portions of the Centennial and Horsethief Lake trails, and the Willow Creek trail, that traverse farther into the Black Elk Wilderness.

If you’re looking for an easier trail option in the Black Hills, get out and enjoy this nearby trail!

Have you hiked the Big Pine loop?  Tell me about your experience in the comments!

 

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Moss and yellow-leaf-covered boulders dappled in sunlight with tree trunks coming out of them. Pin reads, "Big Pine Tralihead Loop in the Black Hills."

 

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