Category: cross-country skiing

Little Devils Tower, Cathedral Spires and Needles Highway Loop

In this post, I review a loop hike made from two popular trails and a scenic road, all amidst the beauty of Custer State Park!

 

While there are many great hikes in Custer State Park, one of my favorites is an awesome loop trail that connects the Cathedral Spires to the Little Devils Tower Trails and incorporates a portion of the Needles Highway.

You can do this loop any time of the year, but I suggest extreme caution if you try it in the summer.  It includes either a lengthy overlanding stretch which requires scrambling over steep, unmarked terrain, or it means you have to walk along the narrow, CROWDED Needles Highway.

Where are the Little Devils Tower and Cathedral Spires trailheads?

You can reach both of these trails from the Sylvan Lake area, which is found off Route 87 in Custer State Park.  Both are accessible throughout the year (weather permitting) though you can’t drive directly to the trailheads during the winter months. (You can access them via a spur trail from Sylvan Lake or other connector trails in the local area.)  See below for directions to both trailheads:

Little Devils Tower Trailhead

Brown grass with some snow in the foreground. Gray, pointy rock structures in the background, dotted with green, pine trees, all under a clear, blue sky.This is found just past the turnoff for Sylvan Lake. (Continue on Route 87 a little less than a mile south of the turnoff for the lake.  You will see a sign for the trailhead on your left and will make a left-hand turn into the parking lot.)

You can’t reach this trailhead by car in the winter months as the road is closed in that area.  In this case, you can access the Little Devils Tower trail via an easy spur trail that is located on the western corner of the main Sylvan Lake parking area.   

Cathedral Spires Trailhead

This trailhead can be found less than one mile south of the Needle Overlook on the Needles Highway (Route 87). (Note, this is south of the turnoff for Sylvan Lake.)

Extreme caution should be practiced in this area.  The parking lot is small and is located at a bend in an extremely curvy and narrow portion of the Needles Highway.  It is necessary to cross the road to reach the trailhead and in the summer this area is frequently crowded with traffic.  The curves and rock walls can greatly reduce a driver’s visibility and cars are sometimes parked incorrectly, as well, further exacerbating the problem.

As the Needles Highway is closed in the winter, that time of year you can only access this trail by car if you do it via a connector trail (such as the Little Devils Tower trail).

Snow in the foreground, then green, pine trees and gray, rock spires in the background. A brown sign reads, "Cathedral Spires".
This is the junction where the Little Devils Tower trail meets the Cathedral Spires trail

What will you see on the Cathedral Spires/Little Devils Tower/Needles Highway loop?

The loop can be completed in any direction, or you can hike each section individually.  The Trekkers find it easier to start at either Sylvan Lake and take the spur to the Little Devils Tower Trail or to just drive to that trailhead directly.

This route is especially enjoyable during the winter months (roughly November through April depending on the weather) because the Needles Highway is closed to all vehicles during that time.  You can still hike/snowshoe/ski it though!  It’s so cool to be able to slowly and calmly enjoy this route, and all the beautiful views it offers, in peace.

No offense tourists, we love you guys!  It’s just that during the busy, warm months, all the bustling of cars, busses, and motorcycles makes us miss our quiet, peaceful Hills. 😇   

See below for a description of each trail:

Little Devils Tower Trail

This trail is around two miles long, in each direction.  It is fairly wide and smooth and isn’t overly difficult (it does ascend the entire way out but the grade is low).

If you know where to look, the fabled Poet’s Table can also be found in this area.  If you want a few hints on how to find it, click here.  

Near the summit, the last several hundred feet does require scrambling over large, steep boulders.  There are some absolutely gorgeous vistas on this trail, and from the summit, you can get great views of the Cathedral Spires…

Brown grass with some snow in the foreground, dotted with green, pine trees. Gray, pointy rock structures in the background, , all under a clear, blue sky.

Cathedral Spires Trail

You can reach this trail directly from the Little Devils Tower Trail or from the Cathedral Spires Trailhead on Needles Highway (if it’s open).  At one-and-a-half miles in each direction, the hike is fairly flat, smooth, and well-marked.  At its terminus, you will find yourself in an amphitheater.  It is surrounded on three sides by rock spires that reach to the heavens as they tower overhead.  Sounds reverberate off the rock causing a cacophony of noise.  This is a prime area to stop for a quick lunch break and it is especially haunting in the fog when it creates a spooky, almost fairy-tale-like scene.

Green, pine trees in the snow in the foreground. In the background, gray, rocky spires reach to the clear, blue sky.
The Cathedral Spires!

Small, green, pine trees in the snow in the foreground, along with a dirt path. In the background, gray, rocky spires reach to the clear, blue sky. Needles Highway

This connector section of the trail offers incredible views of Custer State Park and the town of Custer that sits directly to the south of the park.  On clear days you can also see the plains that stretch to the east and south.  It is truly a beautiful area!  Watch for mountain goats here too as they favor the rocky, granite crags that this part of the state is known for.

Green, pine trees in the snow in the foreground. In the background, large, gray, pointy boulders under a clear, blue sky.
Can you spot the mountain goat?
Rear view of a woman and dog walking on a snow-covered path through a tunnel of pointy rocks. A sign on the rocks reads, "Needles Eye Tunnel".
Puppers and I entering the Needles Eye Tunnel! Can you believe full-sized buses fit through here?! True story!
Two large, rock structures, one with a long, narrow hole, all under a blue sky.
The Needles Eye!

The entire loop is around 9ish miles in total length so it’s a little long.  However, there isn’t a lot of elevation gain as you’re already at one of the highest points in the Hills and the routes themselves aren’t difficult.  I would rate this as a moderate hike.

So, if you’re looking for a fun and scenic way to see well-known parts of Custer State Park, check out this loop trail made from the Little Devils Tower and Cathedral Spires trails, and the Needles Highway!

Have you hiked these trails? Tell me about your experience in the comments!

 

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Two large, rock structures, one with a long, narrow hole, all under a blue sky. Pin reads, "Hike this loop, off-season in Custer State Park. A loop trail of the Little/Cathedral Spires Trails and the Needles Highway"

 

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Conquer Lengthy Trails in Small Portions

In this post, I discuss how to build your self-confidence by “connecting the dots” and finishing portions of trails you haven’t conquered in the past.

 

Today I’m going to discuss the incredible feeling of accomplishment that comes from completing a lengthy trail in small, manageable portions, regardless of how many tries, trips, or years it takes to achieve that goal. 😁  Below I outline several different trails we’ve done sections of in the past and have finally “connected-the-dots” on.

Willow Creek/Rushmore Trail (Trail #5)

View through the woods of pine trees and tree-covered mountains in the background

 We completed the Willow Creek/Rushmore trail (Trail #5,) all the way to where it meets up with the Harney Trail {Trail #9, the hard way up Black Elk (formerly Harney) Peak}.  

This is really just a connector trail and not that big of a deal (though it’s a nice trek with lovely views).  It’s just such an accomplishment when you complete these various routes.  

The Willow Creek/Rushmore Trail was one I’ve been wanting to do for years.  Every time we’ve hiked the difficult Harney Trail (Trail #9), we’ve always used the Willow Creek turn-off as a bit of a landmark to watch for.  So, to finally connect the two was such a delight! 

This accomplishment was especially exhilarating as it was already getting snowy up that way and some of the knee-deep snow was a challenge to hike through–we hadn’t taken snowshoes that day as the lower elevations didn’t have any snow and we didn’t know how much we’d be encountering.

Eagle Cliff Trails in the Black Hills

After numerous tries throughout multiple seasons, we finally completed several sections of various trails in the Eagle Cliff area. 

We’ve enjoyed parts of these trails in previous years–sometimes skiing, sometimes snowshoeing, sometimes mountain biking–but we’ve never fully connected them all.  In the past, we failed to complete the entire loop as we’ve always turned around due to being tired, being cold, or losing the trail.**

This time, however, we started with the Hamburger Snowshoe Route (who comes up with these names?! 😝); took that to Lily Park Trailhead; then continued on to the Holey Rock Trail.  We then looped back to the Bratwurst Ski Trail and brought that all the way back to our starting point–not to worry, we stayed off the ski trails. 😇 (Another group had, kindly, already blazed a snowshoe trail alongside the main road that we were able to follow. 😁)

**As much as we love the Eagle Cliff area, we’ve frequently lost our trail up there.  This has occurred both in the summer and the winter months and has actually been worse in the summer (the tall grasses don’t do much to suggest a trail.  At least in the winter, there are, oftentimes, other tracks to follow!)  Fortunately, we’ve never gotten lost to the point of being in trouble, we were always able to retrace our steps and find our way back.  Sometimes too, we’ve been able to spot the valley we were seeking from a ways off and reach it via off-trail routes.  

I do believe some of this was due to poor signage, the old maps were difficult to read and often sun-faded, or they were an inaccurate match with the current trails that year.  The new ones seem far more clear.  The trail blazes on the trees also seem to be closer together and better-marked now.  It could also be that we’re finally getting comfortable with the area as we’ve completed so many of the trails.  

Related posts:  Cross-Country Skiing at Big Hill, Spearfish, SD; Winter Activities at Eagle Cliff

To Conclude

The point to discussing all this is that, if there is a difficult or lengthy trail (or set of trails) you’re interested in, but they seem too challenging or long for you to accomplish in one sitting, complete them in sections!  It still counts as mastering the entire monster, even if you don’t do it all in one try!
Start from one end and try to make it halfway.  Then, on another occasion, start from the other end and make it halfway again.  You just finished the entire thing, even if you only ever did half a section at a time!  

I have a few other, personal examples of this in relation to local trails.  The Trekkers are aiming to hike the entire, 111-mile-long, Centennial Trail that traverses the length of the Black Hills.  We also want to bike the entirety of the Mikelson Trail, the 109-mile-long, graded, gravel path that spans the Hills, from north to south.  It follows an old railroad grade, leftover from the Gold Rush days of yesteryear.   It’s taken us more than a decade, but so far we’ve completed over half of the Centennial Trail and almost the same amount for the Mikelson.  

With routes that are quite lengthy, numerous trailheads often split them up into more manageable sections.  Completing one several-mile section every few months is far simpler than attempting an entire 25-mile trail all at once.  

We’ve even split up single sections before.  There is a 14-mile portion of the Mikelson trail that we’ve just never been able to finish all at once.  We HAVE completed it using the “halfway method” mentioned above, starting from each direction, though.  

This technique is also a good way to keep your spirits and enthusiasm up.  It’s much easier to stay motivated if you’re not trying to psych yourself up for a crazy excursion, but instead, a fun, shorter, one-day outing.  

With this post, I want to stress that you don’t have to be a marathon recreator.  It’s perfectly reasonable to be more of a “sprinter”, who feels a five-mile outing is a perfectly acceptable definition of a “full day”.  When you’re out on the trail you aren’t competing with anyone or anything else (with the exception of Mother Nature, of course).  Your only rival is yourself. So, don’t compare yourself to others.  The only thing that matters is that you’re improving your skills, your strength, and your health–both mental and physical–along with it.  

The other caveat is, of course, that you’re having fun!  As long as you’re getting out, connecting with the natural world, working off the steam of any built-up, negative energy, and you’re accomplishing the goals you have set for yourself, that’s the only thing that’s really important.  

You’ll find achieving goals is also quite the confidence booster, as you’re pushing yourself and meeting challenges. (If you are the marathoner-type person who can go out and accomplish 20 miles in one sitting, mad points to you too! 😉)

So, what are you waiting for?  Get out there and accomplish some goals and in the process, boost your confidence by finishing​ what you start!   

Have you conquered lengthy trails in small sections?  Tell me about it in the comments!

 

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Winter Fun at Eagle Cliff Ski Area

In this post, I discuss winter activities available at the Eagle Cliff recreation area, near Lead, South Dakota.

 

The Eagle Cliff ski area is located on national forestland just outside of Lead, South Dakota.  Much like Big Hill, it is a great place for winter recreation (though it provides outdoor leisure opportunities year-round.) 

Where is Eagle Cliff?

The Eagle Cliff ski area is located around 10 miles west of Lead, South Dakota on Highway 85, just west of Cheyenne Crossing and the southern mouth of Spearfish Canyon. 

Snow-covered hill covered in both pine and leafless trees on a cloudy day
The Winter Wonderland at Eagle Cliff

What are the Eagle Cliff trails like?

Eagle Cliff is comprised of a series of 21 trails with multiple trailheads and over 27 miles of possible trail combinations.  While this area is open year-round it is primarily used for winter recreation. 

Eagle Cliff is available for mountain biking and hiking in the summer but is not maintained at all and tends to become extremely overgrown.  When we’ve biked there in the past the grass has reached my knees or higher (while on the bike) in some locations. 

You can make a multitude of loops connecting various trails in this area.  Watch for the signs the many forest inhabitants that live here leave behind in the snow, including mountain lion tracks/scat.  Once we were able to surmise where a big cat had traveled through the fringes of the trees to stalk a herd of deer in the meadow below.

Mountain lion tracks in the snow
“Here kitty kitty”!

The Eagle Cliff trailheads are Dead Ox, Raddick, Bratwurst, Lily Park, and Sunny Meadow.  My personal favorites are Raddick and Sunny Meadow.  I especially like a loop made by taking the Raddick Gulch Trail to the Roller Coaster Trail loop.  This route is less than four miles in total length and it incorporates undulating hills and a beautiful landscape. 

This area is fully forested and doesn’t offer much by way of views, but as it’s protected from the wind, it is usually warmer here and the snow blankets the trees providing an iconic, winter landscape. 

View down a hill over a snow-covered open area surrounded by tall pine trees
This is near Raddick Gulch looking down into the valley where we saw evidence of a mountain lion stalking a herd of deer

Sunny Meadow is–as its name suggests–an open meadow, perfect for skiing or snowshoeing in the winter and biking in the summer (just watch out for the cows and their “leavings” in the warmer months 🤥).  This is an absolutely beautiful area with open, rolling hills surrounded by national forestland.  Because it is so open, this expanse can be rather windy and chilly in the winter, and due to lack of shade the sun beats down unmercifully here in the summer, so plan accordingly.  The only complaint I have regarding this beautiful space is that it is near snowmobile trails (though fortunately they aren’t allowed in the ski/snowshoe area) because their noise tends to shatter the serenity of this snowy landscape.

These are, literally, my favorite places in the Hills for winter sports.  Unfortunately, a few years ago, they closed these areas for snowshoeing (my favorite winter sport).  They are now only open for cross-country skiing and Raddick Gulch is a bit too steep for my menial XX-skiing skills.  This was because there were issues with snowshoers messing up the ski trails.  This is why we can’t have nice things! 😒 (FYI snowshoeing is only allowed off of the main, Eagle Cliff trailhead.  There is a large parking lot and a sign for it. 😀)

What activities can you enjoy at Eagle Cliff?

Although both snowshoeing and cross-country skiing are available in this area in the winter, there is only one groomed ski trail.  Similar to the Big Hill trails near Spearfish, this portion of the Black Hills usually receives some of the largest amounts of snow each winter.  This means that even if the ground is bare in Spearfish, Rapid City, or other lower elevations, it’s a good bet that there will be snow at these higher altitudes (oftentimes, A LOT of it)–It’s not unusual to step over the top of gates in the winter that you walk through in the summer or to see the trail signs that are at eye level in summer at boot level in winter. 😮

Ski tracks down a snow-covered forest road. Pine trees line both sides
One of the old forest roads available for snowshoeing or cross-country skiing

So, if you’re looking for a great place to enjoy winter sports that is both beautiful and quiet, check out the Eagle Cliff ski area! 

Have you enjoyed winter Sports at Eagle Cliff?  Tell me about your experience in the comments!

 

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Winter Activities at Big Hill, Spearfish, South Dakota

In this post, I discuss winter activities available at the Big Hill recreation area, in the northern Black Hills.

 

Big Hill is a recreation area located in the Black Hills National Forest that offers outdoor, leisure opportunities year-round.  The prime activities enjoyed here are cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and fat-biking in the winter, though people regularly hike and mountain bike here during the summer months, as well. 

Where is Big Hill?

The Big Hill recreation area is located southwest of Spearfish, in the northern Black Hills.  The easiest way to reach the main trailhead is to take Exit 8, off of I-90, for McGuigan Road.  Take this south until you reach the T-intersection with Tinton Road.  Turn right at the intersection to drive up the hill. 

After about 8 miles, watch for a VERY tiny brown sign on the right-hand side of the road showing a hiker.  Shortly after this sign, at the top of the hill, you’ll see a large parking area on your right. (The trailhead is directly across the road from the parking area).  It is difficult to miss as there are usually numerous other cars there (especially in the winter). 

There are other routes you can take to reach this trailhead–coming from downtown Spearfish–as well as a scenic route coming up the other direction on Tinton Road from the south (from Roughlock Falls Road).  While this is a beautiful, scenic drive that I highly recommend in the summer, it should be approached with extreme caution in the winter.  This portion of the road is barely maintained for winter driving and is usually at least somewhat snow-covered.  We have successfully taken this route in the 4×4 truck in the winter, but it’s not for the faint of heart (though it is necessary if you want to reach the Old Baldy trailhead to enjoy winter activities in that area). 

The route from McGuigan Road to the trailhead is usually maintained quite well and can often be reached using a typical, 2-wheel drive vehicle (we made our first trip there in an old Civic).  It should also be noted that whether Summer or Winter, all of these dirt/gravel forest roads are dependent on the current weather and their condition can vary greatly (and QUICKLY) as the weather changes.

What is the Big Hill Recreation Area like?

Big Hill offers over 15 miles of trails formed by several different loops/routes (many follow old forest roads) that can be combined in a variety of ways.  Trail maps are usually available at the trailhead.

The trails at Big Hill are very well-signed but it’s still best to have a map to help determine the best route for you (the map also indicates the difficulty levels of the various trails).  The managers of this recreation area also do a marvelous job of keeping the ski trails and the snowshoe/fat bike/dog-friendly trails separate while ensuring everyone can still enjoy this beautiful area! 

Big Hill tends to be one of the snowier places in the Black Hills so you can potentially participate in winter activities here anywhere from October – May (dependent on current snow conditions, of course).  We’ve enjoyed snowshoeing here, as well, though there are times the snow isn’t quite deep enough so we tend to favor the Eagle Cliff area for our snowshoeing adventures. 

Today, I am focusing on the winter sports available here.  I will say though, this area is a must-see in the fall when the yellow Aspens are in full color.

Brown meadowgrass in the foreground with a hillside of yellow aspen trees (intermixed with evergreens) in the background, all under a blue sky.

**I mentioned the Eagle Cliff area above.  It only has one groomed trail, the rest are just trails cut by outdoor enthusiasts.  Big Hill offers machine-groomed ski trails that are better for practicing the fundamental drills of skiing as they are smoother. 

Machine-groomed trails require FAR less effort, but I find I enjoy them less.  They are more crowded and while faster, I find it’s harder to control my skis.  The person-groomed trails require more effort and you’ll move less quickly, but I find the resistance the snow provides aides in control of the skis and balance.  So, while the groomed trails are usually recommended for beginners, I’d say you have to decide what is most important to you; ease of effort or less fear of hurtling down a hill uncontrollably…possibly towards a tree. 😳

Warmer the higher up you go?

This area is another example of the complicated, frequently-contrasting weather you can have in the Black Hills.  On several occasions we’ve experienced temps in the single digits to low teens in the lower elevations–but it can feel almost balmy with temps in the mid-twenties at Big Hill (that equates to perfectly comfortable conditions when skiing, in the sun, with little wind.)  This contrasting weather is due to a temperature inversion.  Put in simple terms this basically means warmer air is lighter and floats over cooler air.  This makes it warmer the higher you go in elevation. (If you want a more scientific explanation you’ll have to track down Mr. Trekker. 😃)

Snowshoeing vs. Cross-Country Skiing

Snowshoeing is great fun, but it’s HARD work depending on snow conditions (this activity and mountain biking are literally the hardest workouts I’ve ever done). 

Cross-country skiing, in contrast, requires far less exertion (and I’ve found that working out with an elliptical during the week is perfect training for this sport as the body motions required for both are very similar). 

Anyone who can walk can snowshoe.  It takes a little skill to keep from stepping on your own shoes, but once you master that, you’re golden.  Cross-country skiing, on the other hand, is FAR more difficult.  It requires balance, finesse, and the ability to relax and just “go with the flow”–all characteristics I SORELY lack (“sore” being the keyword as that’s often the result of my endeavors 😝). 

I would also argue skiing is more dangerous as you’re moving faster and are more likely to slip/twist something when you fall (and you WILL fall).  If you fall while snowshoeing, you pretty much just end up on your rump or fall to the side into a cushioning snowbank.  It may be cold, but not really injury-inducing (although your snowshoe could become stuck under a buried log, as I found out at Big Hill one early, spring day…😮 )  

We’ve gotten pretty good at most outdoor sports we enjoy, but with skiing, we’re still very much beginners.  Standing on a thin object that’s meant to glide quickly and effortlessly does not lend itself to keeping one’s balance.  Neither do skis that are as long as I am tall and stick out several feet both in front of and behind you.  Not only do you have to learn how to move around without stepping on yourself (similar to snowshoes) but you have to do it while each leg is trying to slide in an opposite direction. 😝

So, if you’re enjoying a snowy weekend at Big Hill, and you see a bumbling idiot barely able to stay upright on their skis..it just might be me! 😇

The best trails at Big Hill

Dirt trail crossing a brown-grass meadow with yellow apens and evergreens in the background, all under a blue sky.For beginners, I strongly recommend starting with the initial Loop A.  It’s a short, groomed trail that just goes in a small circle around a meadow/forested area near the front of the Big Hill trail network.  It’s fairly flat with only a few short rises and dips and doesn’t offer much opportunity for falls (though, full disclosure, I have fallen here 😝). 

There is another Loop A that goes farther out.  This option is also usually groomed. It’s also good for beginners once you get a little more confidence as it’s solely a “green” route–meaning it’s considered “easy”.  There are a few steeper slopes, one especially on the right-hand (western) side of the loop as you’re heading out.  I’ve had my worst spills in this area and though they were frightening, I’ve left without injury–so far–and haven’t even felt very sore the next day. (A surprise as I was sure my ankles were being ripped from my body when I fell. 😮 )

What will you see at Big Hill?

Big Hill is absolutely BEAUTIFUL no matter the time of year.  It offers a mixture of forested and meadowy areas that contain leafless deciduous and evergreen trees, all covered in a soft blanket of snow during the winter.  On sunny days you’ll frequently hear birds chirping in the trees, and the ever-present, South Dakota breeze rustling through the pines provides a respite from the deafening, snowy silence.  In the fall, this area offers a warm glow with the bronze meadowgrass, and glowing, yellow aspens all standing in contrast to the evergreen trees.

Brown meadowgrass in the foreground with a hillside of yellow aspen trees (intermixed with evergreens) in the background.

This recreation area is far enough from civilization that it offers an incredibly peaceful environment.  It is sullied in the winter only by the occasional roar of snowmobiles that also enjoy nearby trails–though not these exact trails. (Fortunately, they focus on the region on the other side of the road so they are usually only really heard when you are near the parking lot.)

If you’re looking for a great place to enjoy some snow sports that is both beautiful, easy to reach, and that offers fun options for everyone, check out Big Hill!

Have you tried the Big Hill Recreation Area?  Tell me about your experience in the comments! 

 

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Snow-covered meadow in the foreground; green, pine trees in the background. Pin reads, "Winter Activities at Big Hill in South Dakota."

 

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