The Backroads of Colorado

This post outlines our adventures on several Colorado backroads, including some at State Forest State Park and around the Crested Butte area.

 

On our 2018 road trip in the Colorado High Country, we really wanted to improve our 4×4 driving (and navigation) skills.  Fortunately, there are a number of backroads in Colorado that are perfect for this! 

One series of books we found to be incredibly helpful is A Guide to Colorado Backroads.  It’s actually a series of books covering the northern, central, and southern regions of the state.  These provide helpful information on the roads and trails including their difficulty level, equipment needed to successfully complete them, and details on each of the routes’ conditions.  

Below is a listing of the new roads we enjoyed:

Montgomery Pass Road, State Forest State Park

The first road we mastered, the Montgomery Pass Road at State Forest State Park, ended up being the most technical route we attempted on the entire trip. This out-and-back trek is listed as “moderate” in the guidebook.  It was fun, though, definitely, challenging.  A high clearance, 4WD vehicle is required and skid plates are an added benefit–we were VERY glad for them as we scraped across one particular rock.  Several spots even required me to exit the vehicle and play “spotter” for Mr. Trekker to assist him in navigating the obstacles…it was fun!  😁  The road was wide, with room to pass in most spots, and mostly traversed the forest, so, it lacked the stomach-churning shelf roads we experienced on much of the rest of the trip.  

The road ends before it reaches the top of Montgomery Pass, and the final half-mile or so must be completed on foot.  It’s an easy hike (minus the altitude) as the trail is an abandoned forest road.  It was windy at over 11,000 feet, but the incredible views of the Never Summer Mountains and the promise of the 360-degree vista at the top provide motivation despite beleaguered lungs.

Hand holding an analog dial showing a little over 11,000 feet elevation
Made it to the top of Montgomery Pass!

The wildflowers had begun to carpet the surrounding meadows while snow still blanketed portions of the nearby peaks (in early July!)   Another quality of this wilderness area is that we felt like we had the entire mountain to ourselves on a Monday morning, seeing only two other groups for the duration of the excursion.  You can also hike the entire way to the peak from the other side of the mountain.  The trailhead is found off Route 14 on the eastern edge of the park.   

A small, rock cairn in the foreground with a grassy meadow spreading out behind. A spine of grass and tree-covered mountain peaks can be seen in the distance with occasional spats of snow
The view from the summit

Bockman Road, State Forest State Park

We supplemented the adventure above with a side trip down Bockman Road which intersects the Montgomery Pass Road farther down the mountain.  This road was easy, I think my CRV may have been able to handle it if you were careful on a few of the bumpy sections.  It was dirt, but wide enough for two vehicles and mostly graded.  It made for a fun, relaxing afternoon as a bubbling creek accompanied us for much of the trip, as well as countless more wildflowers (have I mentioned the wildflowers are beautiful in Colorado this time of year?) 😉  

Gothic Road near Crested Butte

Probably the most nerve-wracking drive we completed was Gothic Road, from Gothic ghost town to Schofield Pass–I discuss Gothic in this post

The road is in good condition–a sedan could probably negotiate it.  The problem we ran into was that it is a 1 1/2-lane shelf road with a significant drop-off at one side and no barrier–a frequent condition we encountered on Colorado back roads.  

When we were there it was also INCREDIBLY busy; filled with 2-way traffic in addition to hikers and mountain bikers.  Part of the trouble was that we were there on a weekend in July (our fault, it was just the way the trip itinerary worked out).  But the horde of visitors combined with people who are unaccustomed to driving in those white-knuckle conditions made for what felt like a genuinely unsafe situation from time to time.  

From the top of the pass, a dangerous 4×4 road continues on through the acclaimed “Devil’s Punchbowl” to Crystal Mill–one of the worst 4×4 accidents in Colorado history occurred on this road.  We chose NOT to take that route, 😝 but check out this post for the 4×4 adventure we had on Forest Road 314 from Marble to Crystal Mill!

Schofield Pass and Slate River Road

Once we reached Schofield Pass, we completed the loop via Slate River Road (Forest Road 734) through Paradise Divide.  This section was not only FAR quieter and more relaxing, but it was also one of the most scenic drives I’ve ever been on (it made the other half of the loop worth the gray hairs). 😉  

Pine trees frame the rugged slopes of green, tree-covered mountains in the background
Paradise Divide

Showcasing towering mountains donning green meadows, grass-covered avalanche chutes, and streaming rivers fueled by snowmelt, this drive is incredible!  We were fortunate enough to grab one of the last remaining dispersed campsites in this area that was nestled right next to a small canyon.  We fell asleep listening to the water coursing through it that night!

Short, green, tree and grass-covered canyon walls with a small stream/waterfall flowing among them
Waterfall along Paradise Divide
An orange rooftop tent sits on a trailer in front of a truck with an awning. This is in a clearing with tall pine trees surrounding it
Our campsite

Below is a video I took of the Divide.  Be patient with me, my videographer experience is minimal, the road was bumpy, and this was taken on an iPhone.  But…this valley was so INCREDIBLY beautiful, I had to share this with you!  You can see why they gave it the name they did! 😎

The drive from Rifle to Grand Mesa Colorado

Even when not looking for a 4×4 adventure, we learned that travel on Colorado back roads can be an interesting experience.  We drove the back route from Rifle to Grand Mesa National Forest, taking Dry Hollow Road from Silt.  Then we continued, via Route 270, into Colbran and then took Route 121 to enter Grand Mesa the back way.  

The drive was lovely!  The eclectic scenery transitioned from desert-like scrubland in the Rifle area to aspen forest in the higher elevations, then to rolling farmland in the valleys (that reminded us of Pennsylvania) before ending in the spruce forests that comprise the Grand Mesa area.  

Related Posts:  Guide to Colorado Backroads and 4-Wheel-Drive Trails: Book ReviewThe Best Hidden Gems of Northern Colorado, 7 “Must-See” Colorado Ghost TownsThe Drive to Crystal Mill in Colorado

I mentioned earlier that the gazetteer didn’t always differentiate road surfaces well.  We found the regular road atlas (and the 4×4 book mentioned above) gave far better indications of what to expect for the actual conditions of the roads…

…In this situation, these routes were indicated to be “major connectors” (and I’m sure they were for that, extremely rural, area). However, this indication included roads that varied from paved and painted to those that are dirt/gravel, with some being extremely rough due to a washboard surface.  They were, often, also, narrow and winding (where two, full-size vehicles may struggle to pass).  Many also hugged the sides of cliffs on shelf roads.  They offered incredible views but may be alarming to people who aren’t accustomed to those conditions.  

We had a great time, but I note this so people are aware these conditions can make travel more difficult and may require you to budget additional time to complete the drive.     

Green grass and trees in the foreground spreading out to rocky, tree-covered mountains in the background. White puffy clouds on a blue sky
Viewpoint on the road to Grand Mesa from Silt

These portions of our trip were thrilling, nerve-wracking, and challenging.  However you manage to do it, whether it be machine-powered by a 4×4 vehicle or using your own two feet, I’d encourage you to venture out onto these lesser-traveled routes (as you are comfortable, of course).  You’ll see sites and experience adventures that the average person misses on the more well-traveled highways.  It will give you a whole different appreciation for the nature that surrounds us.

Have you ever tried out any of these Colorado backroads?  Tell me about your experience in the comments!

 

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Four pictures of a green, grassy meadow and a dirt road meandering around grass-covered mountains. Also a meadow filled with wildflowers and a lake in the background. Pin reads, "The Backroads of the Colorado High Country" 

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West Tensleep Trail, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming

The Big Horn National Forest, in Wyoming, is a wonderful place to enjoy some secluded time in the woods.

 

The Trekkers LOVE to visit the Bighorn Mountains, in northeastern Wyoming.  Each time we go to this area I re-discover my love for them all over again!  I enjoy that mountain range almost as much as the Rockies.  This is probably because they are very similar with a few wonderful exceptions:  there are fewer people in the Bighorns and the Wyoming wilderness is only a few hours from the Black Hills–rather than the 6 to 8-hour drive to the Rockies.  Traffic is much better too!  😉

The weather in this area (during the warmer months, at least) is usually comprised of blue skies, warm temps, and clear, crisp evenings.  Conditions can change fast though!  The Trekkers have a tradition of camping in the Bighorns over Labor Day Weekend and it isn’t unusual for this area to receive its first significant snowstorm of the year a scant week or so later. 

On this particular visit, we came to hike the West Ten Sleep trail to Mirror Lake. The only downside for this trip was lingering smoke from wildfires in Montana.  When we arrived in Buffalo, Wyoming, on Friday evening, you could barely make out the mountains through the smoky haze. 

If you’ve never been there, Buffalo is basically nestled into the eastern base of the Bighorns, similar to how Rapid City is nestled into the eastern base of the Black Hills.  If you’ve never been to either locale, well, let’s just say you normally can’t miss the mountains, they’re like, right there!  😜  Also, you need to plan a visit!!!

Where is the West Tensleep Trailhead?

You will find the trailhead at the end of Route 27 North.  The road basically ends at West Tensleep Lake and the trail continues along the Tensleep Creek from there.  Route 27 branches off of US 16 just east of the B-E-A-Utiful Tensleep Canyon and just west of Meadowlark Lake and the Meadowlark Ski Lodge.

You should note that Route 27 is often closed to regular vehicles during the snowy season, which is lengthy in this part of the country, as it becomes a snowmobile trail.  Other times of the year this dirt road can become rugged (in snowy or muddy conditions, even if it’s open) and a 4WD or high-clearance AWD vehicle may be able to handle it better.

Hiking the West Tensleep Trail to Mirror Lake

That Saturday dawned clear and beautiful–we were thankful for a reprieve from the smoke that day–so we hiked West Tensleep Trail (Trail #65) to Mirror Lake.  This trail can go as far as Twin Lakes, though that is a 12-mile hike in each direction.  We opted to stop at Mirror Lake (at about the halfway point), but the full trail would be ideal for an overnight backpacking trip.  This moderate trek is beautiful and accented with stream crossings, sprawling meadows, and a few waterfall views.  It is well-marked and wide in most places and not overly difficult.  What makes it strenuous at times is the altitude (it reaches close to 10,000 feet in places) though the views of the surrounding summits are worth it!

Related posts: Lake Helen, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming; Camping in the Bighorns; Bighorn Medicine Wheel in Wyoming; 4 Don’t Miss Sites in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming

The gurgling creek accompanies you most of the way creating an iconic, mountain experience.  The neighboring stream and the craggy peaks towering nearby especially reminded me of hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park. 

A stream runs through a forest
West Tensleep Trail

A creek meanders through a narrow meadow with pine trees lining both sides

A trail meanders through a rocky meadow. A large, rocky mountain can be seen in the background.

Mirror Lake!

Mirror Lake is a beautiful, alpine lake that mirrors the sky and adjacent cliffs when calm (likely where it gets its name!) and makes a prime lunch spot before turning back or continuing on to Twin Lakes.  Usually, we enjoy peaceful solitude in this region, but this time it was quite “crowded” (we saw 5 – 10 other groups on the same trail–that’s crowded in the Bighorns!)  Apparently, we weren’t the only ones looking to escape the 90-degree heat of the lower elevations that weekend!

A woman sits looking out over the dark, smooth water of Mirror Lake surrounded by forest. A tree-covered mountainside is in the background.
Mirror Lake
Mr. Trekker stands on a cliff edge with his back to us, looking out over the mountain vista. Tree-covered mountain slopes are in the background.
Just a man and his mountains

Island Park Campground, Bighorn Mountains

We stayed at the Island Park campground and our campsite was located on the fringe of the national forest, overlooking a marshy, grassy valley.

Don’t be afraid of the lesser-developed national forest campgrounds.  They are spectacular, though you do need a tolerance for “roughing it” a bit if you’re tent camping (while potable water is often available in the “on” season, pit toilets are regularly all that is offered).  If you’ve got an RV this may not be an issue (and the “developed” campgrounds can often accommodate RVs).  These sites are usually more off the beaten path so they tend to be quieter, more enjoyable, and may provide more wildlife viewing opportunities.

Moose in the Bighorns!

An added bonus that made this weekend laudable was the “visitors” we received each evening (and most mornings).  If you’ll recall, in a previous post, I mentioned State Forest State Park in north-central Colorado had the best moose-viewing opportunities we’d ever seen…until this trip! 😁  A single cow and another momma and her baby visited us at least once a day the whole weekend.  One evening a large bull also graced us with his presence. 

This campground was the perfect place to view moose as they happily gorged on the willow branches that dotted the boundary.  We named them Maggie, Molly, Matilda, and Marvin (they’re moose, obviously all their names have to start with “m”! 😉)  Marvin kept his distance but the three ladies ventured right up near the campsites if people were quiet enough and gave them their space.  It was an incredibly beautiful, (dare I say tranquil?) site to behold.

A cow and baby moose walk through a meadow with a stream running through it. The forest creates a backdrop.
Maggie and Molly

I’ve always been fascinated by moose, perhaps because they’re one of the only critters that aren’t native to the various regions I’ve lived in.  They’re slightly odd-looking creatures (though cute too), and while they seem like they would be awkward clodhoppers 😂, with their large bodies –especially the males–they’re actually quite graceful when they run through wetlands or swim across streams.  They seem like big cows but be warned, they ARE wild animals that can be quite dangerous and aggressive if provoked (especially the mothers protecting their babies or the males during the rutting season).  Usually, if you leave them alone and give them the respect they deserve, they’ll offer you the same consideration.

Note: Moose are NOT afraid of dogs and they have been known to kill dogs. PLEASE, keep your dogs leashed and fully under control in Moose Country. (Also, the Forest Service can and will ticket you for “harassing wildlife” if they feel you’re allowing your dogs to bother the moose.  Always remember, this is at the ranger’s discretion, it doesn’t matter if you agree that harassment was occurring or not… 

A cow moose is seen eating willows just a few feet from a tent!
Oh, hello! (you can see how close she got to the campground!)

West Tensleep Lake

Sunday we canoed West Tensleep Lake surrounded by the imposing peaks of the Cloud Peak Wilderness (and only slightly marred by lingering smoke).  This is a small lake but it’s no-wake so it’s ideal for canoeing, kayaking, and wake-boarding (just give your fellow fishermen space to enjoy their activities, as well.) 

The dark, rippling waters of West Tensleep Lake with rocky mountains looming through the haze in the background
West Tensleep Lake, you can see the Cloud Peak Wilderness area looming through the smoky haze

We also attempted to reach East Tensleep Lake via Forest Road 430.  While Mr. Trekker had fun practicing his 4×4-ing skills we decided the road was a little more than we wanted to tackle that day so we only traveled about halfway.  We enjoyed beautiful views throughout, however. (Check out this post for info on our return trip to that lake!) 

A creek runs through a meadow scattered with trees. Mountains can be seen looming through the haze in the background.
Off Forest Road 430

The road parallels Tensleep Creek which offers countless fishing opportunities.  It also crosses several expansive meadows providing prime disperse-camping opportunities (this is national forestland so dispersed camping is allowed, just follow all local regulations pertaining to the use of fires).  There are also ample opportunities for on and off-trail hiking.

Busy Bee Cafe, Buffalo, Wyoming

Monday morning dawned smoky once again as we packed up to head for home.  We ended our trip by enjoying a well-earned breakfast at one of our favorite local haunts, the Busy Bee Cafe in Buffalo!  This small diner was thrust into the spotlight thanks to Craig Johnson’s Longmire series that is based in this general area (and its reputation is warranted).

Below are some more pictures from our wonderful weekend (as always thanks to Mr. Trekker for a few of these):

IMG_2512
Smoky sunrise
IMG_2494
Bridge over Tensleep Creek

IMG_2493

Have you hiked the West Tensleep Trail, or visited Mirror or West Tensleep Lakes?  Tell me about your experiences in the comments!

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3 pictures: 1) A creek meanders through a narrow meadow with pine trees lining both sides; 2) The dark waters of West Tensleep Lake with rocky mountains speckled with pine trees in the background; 3) A trail meanders through a rocky meadow. A large, rocky mountain can be seen in the background. Pin reads, Take a Hike on the West Tensleep Trail, Bighorn Mountains"

 

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Driving the Medano Creek Road at Great Sand Dunes National Park

In this post, I review a 4×4 driving class the Trekkers took and our adventure at Great Sand Dunes National Park.

 

Author’s note:  In a previous post regarding one of our epic, summer road trips, I mentioned we canceled plans at this locale due to me falling ill.  I had originally intended this adventure as a present for Mr. Trekker for achieving Tenure, but, since our plans got changed, it ended up being an anniversary trip instead. 

The Great Sand Dunes National Park is located in south-central Colorado, near the small town of Saguache.  The park is nestled among the beautiful Sangre de Cristo Mountains in the San Luis Valley. 

We were able to reschedule our trip for the fall (which consequently is a much prettier time to visit that area due to leaf colors.  It’s also less busy and much cooler, all pluses in the Trekker book! Ya’ll know how I LOVE the heat! 😓

Unbeknownst to us, when we had originally planned to visit, in early June, is one of the busiest times at the park.  This is when the creek runs high due to snowmelt in the mountains.

The Great Sand Dunes are situated in a GORGEOUS location!

We woke up the first morning surrounded by a 360-degree view of the rounded peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.  Gorgeous pictures painted the walls of the rental house, reflecting the spectacular scenery found in the surrounding area. 

I’ve waxed lyrical about our love for Air B&B’s before.  This choice was a simple, rustic old farmhouse that had been renovated.  The kitchen was well-stocked with the cooking equipment/utensils you might need and beautiful cabinetry adorned the walls.  The home offered plenty of room for a family to sleep and is centrally located in the San Luis Valley, making an ideal base camp for day treks to the Great Sand Dunes or any hiking, 4×4-ing, or winter sports you want to engage in within the surrounding area.

A small kitchen with charming, wooden cabinets
The adorable kitchen in the rental house
Panoramic view of a reddish sunrise with purple clouds over the dark silhouette of mountains
Sunrise over the Sangre de Cristo range

 

Related post:  Aliens and Sandhill Cranes in the San Luis Valley! 

4×4 trails at Great Sand Dunes National Park

We rented a jeep for the weekend and spent Saturday in a hands-on 4×4 driving class.  We learned proper tire placement, how to navigate various routes (picking the correct line, sticking to the high ground), as well as acquiring safety tips and how to get ourselves out of sticky situations (such as fashioning a winch using a hi-lift jack to get a vehicle out of a bind). 

We then spent Sunday trekking around Great Sand Dunes National Park, driving the Medano Pass Primitive Road, and getting sandblasted on the dunes (it was windy that day!) 

Medano Creek, which you cross numerous times when driving the Primitive Road,  runs fairly low in the fall which made for easier crossings for us novices.  If you want the challenge of higher water crossings early June through summer would be a better time to visit (though there are times in spring when the road is closed due to extremely high water from snowmelt and spring rains.)  Also, as the road is two-way but is only one lane wide, there were times we found it complicated to navigate while leaving room for others to pass.  I can’t imagine how this challenge may be exacerbated in the crowded, summer months.

Pathfinders 4×4

We rented the jeep through Pathfinders 4×4 and its proprietor, Cam Benton, taught the class.  The company offers jeeps for rent as well as jeep tours and 4×4 driving classes.  You can find out more at Pathfinders 4×4

I cannot say enough about Cam, he was incredible!  He was friendly, personable, and a wonderful teacher.  Not only did he allow us to cancel our original reservations inside the 5-day “no cancellations” window, but he also gave us an almost total refund (with the exception of our initial deposit which he then credited back to us when we rescheduled). 

Cam also owns several Air B&B properties.  We had originally reserved a room in his home for that weekend but the week before our arrival he suggested we could use the nearby rental house, which he also owned, if we preferred.  It provided more privacy, more space for us, and was actually more centrally located to our planned activities for that weekend.  The cost of the home was close to double the cost of the room we actually paid for but he offered it to us for no extra charge.

**To be clear, Cam has not reimbursed me in any way for giving him this glowing review, I just firmly believe in giving credit where credit is due. 😁  

As is often true for mountain weather, we were able to experience multiple seasons in just a few days.  The weekend was full of clear blue skies and warm temperatures in southern Colorado, and we had intended to stay through Sunday night.  However, with impending Winter Storm warnings for the Denver area on Monday (Denver was between us and home) we opted to leave Sunday afternoon instead.  Not all was lost though.  This change in travel plans allowed us to enjoy a leisurely, beautiful fall drive on scenic US 285 through the South Park area and Trout Creek Pass back to Denver, and on Monday we were able to enjoy our first snow of the season!

Below are some more pictures from our weekend of fun.  Thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker for several of these!

Sunset over a wide, very shallow creek that runs over a sandbar. Dark silhouettes of sand dunes are in the background.
Sunset over the Great Sand Dunes and Medano Creek
A flat, sandy area leads to trees decked in yellow leaves and tree-covered mountains in the distance, all under a clear, blue sky.
Fall at Great Sand Dunes National Park!
View through a hotel window speckled with water droplets of a parking lot, cars and other buildings with a dusting of snow, all under a gray, cloudy sky.
Snow in Denver!

This is a great park to visit no matter the time of year.  Definitely put it on your “to-do” list! 

Have you ever visited the park or driven the Medano Creek Road?  Tell me about it in the comments! 

 

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A dirt road runs through desert scrubland with pine and yellow-leafed trees and tree-covered mountains in the distance, all under a clear, blue sky. Pin reads, "The Medano Creek Road at Great Sand Dunes National Park"

 

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Jenny Gulch Road in the Black Hills

In this post, I review the drive on Jenny Gulch Road, in the central Black Hills.

 

In a  previous post, I gave a brief mention to Jenny Gulch Road.  It is found off Silver City Road, on the way to the Jenney Gulch boat ramp of Pactola Lake and the tiny community of Silver City. 

This gets a little confusing.  There are several roads in the Rapid City and the central Black Hills area that go by this name so Google Maps (and possibly other mapping programs) may send you to the wrong place.  To be clear, for this post I am referencing the Jenny Gulch Road that follows along Forest Road 261 and runs through a central portion of the Black Hills National Forest, outside of town.  It meets up with Broad Gulch Road and runs as far as Rochford Road, both of which eventually lead you to Highway 385, one of the main routes through the Hills. 

In the earlier post, I mentioned a large section of the road heads off to the north (and consequently not near Jenney Gulch at all) but we’d never taken that route.  I am happy to report we have rectified that issue and I can now give you details of that road, as well! 

Jenny Gulch Road offers a nice drive through national forestland.  It doesn’t really provide any exciting activity options, but several dead-end forest roads branch off from it which present prime “set-up-your-hammock-and-enjoy-the-quiet of-the forest” opportunities.  These would also be some good spots for dispersed camping. 

We did learn these are off-limits to vehicle travel and are barred by gates in the off-season (though they’re still available for foot travel). 

The road is recommended for high clearance vehicles only and near the northern terminus, I was glad we had the 4×4 with the higher ground clearance.  A regular AWD vehicle could probably make it but some of the ruts could cause the situation to become a little dodgy.

This back road is something to think about if you’re looking for a secluded place in the forest to collect your thoughts, and another item checked off of our Black Hills Bucket List!

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