Custer State Park Archives : Tranquil Trekker

Hiking Black Elk Peak, Trail #9: the Easy Way!

In this post, I detail the main route up Black Elk Peak in the Black Hills.

Black Elk Peak trail (Trail #9) is one of the most popular hikes in the entire Black Hills. It summits Black Elk Peak, which is the tallest peak in the Hills (at over 7000 feet in elevation) and it is also the tallest mountain in the entire country east of the Rockies!

In this post, I am reviewing the route that traverses the south side of the mountain. This is the easiest way up Black Elk Peak. You can also attempt Trail #9 from the north. For a review of that trail, which is only lightly traveled and is FAR more strenuous than the southern route (in my opinion it is one of the hardest trails in the entire Black Hills) click here.

Where is the Black Elk Peak Trailhead?

The trailhead is located within Custer State Park. It is adjacent to the picturesque Sylvan Lake. You can reach it from the east side of the main parking lot at the lake, which is found just off of Route 87.

When is the best time of year to hike the Black Elk Peak Trail?

You can hike this trail any time of the year (weather-permitting that Route 87 is open so you can get to the trailhead). Always remember that because this is the highest portion of the Black Hills, it tends to get more snow than the surrounding areas and that snow tends to stick around longer.

Also, this trail is VERY popular, even in the winter months, so the snow on it gets packed into very slippery ice. At a bare minimum, traction devices such as Yaktrax are a MUST during the snowy months.

As with the majority of Custer State Park, you can take dogs on this trail. Please keep them leashed though. Unlike many other trails in the Black Hills, you should expect to have A LOT of company on your hike, at least during the busy season.

Black Elk Peak is the new name for Harney Peak

Black Elk Peak is located within the Harney range. The name of the mountain was changed from Harney Peak just a few years ago so many signs and maps still carry the old name. The new name honors Black Elk, a Lakota, Holy Man who died in 1950. The wilderness area that the peak is located within was named after him, as well.

*If you’re interested in learning more about this great man and the rich, Lakota culture, check out the book Black Elk Speaks by John Neihardt. Neihardt wrote this biography after interviewing Black Elk near the end of his life.

The Holy Man had an incredibly rich life filled with diverse experiences. These ranged from growing up in a nomadic tribe on the South Dakota Plains to traveling the world with the Wild Bill Hickok Wild West show! Black Elk was even at the Battle of Little Bighorn where General Custer was killed. In the book, he discusses how everything changed when “the yellow metal that makes white men crazy”–-his name for gold–was found in the Black Hills.

What is the Black Elk Peak trail like?

The trail is quite wide and graded, with very little rock-scrambling required (until you get to the summit). Due to this, I would give it a rating of Moderate.

The only things that make this trail difficult are the length (it’s over seven miles long, out-and-back, and can easily take 4 – 5 hours to complete) and it sits at a high altitude. Throughout the entire hike you never drop below 6000 feet, so expect to feel the lower oxygen levels present at this higher elevation. You will get out of breath and tired more quickly and you may feel dizzy (or like your head is “swimming”.)

The summit can be a little daunting. As with much of the rest of the Black Hills this area is left primarily to nature. There are very few fences or barriers between you and the cliff edges that surround the summit of the mountain. If you are responsible you can very safely enjoy this site. Just be watchful with small children and pets.

All that being said, this trail is family-friendly as long as you know your limits and take your time. I would recommend hiking boots (or at least sturdy shoes) for this hike but I’ve seen people do it in simple sneakers and even flip-flops or sandals. 😮

A grey, rocky cliff in the foreground overlooking tree-covered mountains and plains stretching to the horizon far below, all under puffy, white clouds in a blue sky. — It’s a long way down!

The other concern here is the weather. It can change incredibly quickly. It can also be drastically different here than the lower elevations in the rest of the park or the surrounding countryside. The peak is solely made of granite rock, there are no trees for shade or protection.

While the hike does meander through the Black Hills National Forest, this portion of it was decimated by the pine beetle epidemic just a few years ago so there are many areas that were left bare of trees. So don’t expect a lot of shade to hide you from the sun in the summer.

There is also little protection from the wind. If a thunderstorm pops up while you’re on the mountain (which can frequently be expected during the afternoon in the summer months) you should immediately trek back down the trail and get to an area with more trees and protection!

What will you see on the Black Elk Peak Trail?

The panorama that greets you at the summit is unrivaled anywhere in the Black Hills (you’re taller than everything else so there is nothing to block your view! ) We are talking a 360-degree vista of the entirety of Custer State Park, the town of Custer to the south, Rapid City to the north, and the plains that spread to the east of town! On clear days you may also be able to spot the Badlands, which is almost 100 miles to the east (bring your binoculars!)

View from above overlooking an expanse of grey, rocky mountains covered in green pine trees. Lower mountains covered in trees and plains stretch to the horizon, all under a blue sky with puffy, white clouds. — The view from 7000+ feet high!

Much like the rest of the park, this route is the perfect place to see the wide variety of flora (plants) and fauna (critters) that call Custer State Park home. These include mountain goats, bighorn sheep, deer (both whitetail and mule), elk, chipmunks, and the squirrels who will chatter at you along the way. There are also coyotes, mountain lions, and bobcats, though you are less likely to see these shy animals.

Harney Fire Tower

There is an incredibly picturesque fire tower at the top of the peak and to my knowledge, it still bears Harney’s name. It was built in the 1930s and rumor has it the infamous burrows that can be spotted in other portions of the park are descendants of the pack animals who were used when the fire tower was in service. The tower is no longer in operation, but it is still maintained and can be climbed! For more info on the tower, click here!

View from below: dark silhouette of a rocky, castle-like fire tower on top of a rocky, tree-covered mountain. — First glimpse of the Harney Fire Tower!

This trail is not “easy” but it is quite doable for almost any able-bodied hiker. Plan to spend an entire day at Sylvan Lake and hiking the Black Elk Peak trail, it is most definitely worth that much time! Enjoy the trail, appreciate the summit and the splendid beauty of the Black Hills that surround you. This is a fun trek with incredible views and I would encourage anyone who has even the slightest interest in hiking to try it out! You’ll be glad you did!

Have you enjoyed the “easy” hike up Black Elk Peak? Tell me about your experience in the comments!

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Little Devils Tower, Cathedral Spires and Needles Highway Loop

In this post, I review a loop hike made from two popular trails and a scenic road, all amidst the beauty of Custer State Park!

While there are many great hikes in Custer State Park, one of my favorites is an awesome loop trail that connects the Cathedral Spires to the Little Devils Tower Trails and incorporates a portion of the Needles Highway.

You can do this loop any time of the year, but I suggest extreme caution if you try it in the summer. It includes either a lengthy overlanding stretch which requires scrambling over steep, unmarked terrain, or it means you have to walk along the narrow, CROWDED Needles Highway.

Where are the Little Devils Tower and Cathedral Spires trailheads?

You can reach both of these trails from the Sylvan Lake area, which is found off Route 87 in Custer State Park. Both are accessible throughout the year (weather permitting) though you can’t drive directly to the trailheads during the winter months. (You can access them via a spur trail from Sylvan Lake or other connector trails in the local area.) See below for directions to both trailheads:

Little Devils Tower Trailhead

This is found just past the turnoff for Sylvan Lake. (Continue on Route 87 a little less than a mile south of the turnoff for the lake. You will see a sign for the trailhead on your left and will make a left-hand turn into the parking lot.)

You can’t reach this trailhead by car in the winter months as the road is closed in that area. In this case, you can access the Little Devils Tower trail via an easy spur trail that is located on the western corner of the main Sylvan Lake parking area.

Cathedral Spires Trailhead

This trailhead can be found less than one mile south of the Needle Overlook on the Needles Highway (Route 87). (Note, this is south of the turnoff for Sylvan Lake.)

Extreme caution should be practiced in this area. The parking lot is small and is located at a bend in an extremely curvy and narrow portion of the Needles Highway. It is necessary to cross the road to reach the trailhead and in the summer this area is frequently crowded with traffic. The curves and rock walls can greatly reduce a driver’s visibility and cars are sometimes parked incorrectly, as well, further exacerbating the problem.

As the Needles Highway is closed in the winter, that time of year you can only access this trail by car if you do it via a connector trail (such as the Little Devils Tower trail).

Snow in the foreground, then green, pine trees and gray, rock spires in the background. A brown sign reads, "Cathedral Spires". — This is the junction where the Little Devils Tower trail meets the Cathedral Spires trail

What will you see on the Cathedral Spires/Little Devils Tower/Needles Highway loop?

The loop can be completed in any direction, or you can hike each section individually. The Trekkers find it easier to start at either Sylvan Lake and take the spur to the Little Devils Tower Trail or to just drive to that trailhead directly.

This route is especially enjoyable during the winter months (roughly November through April depending on the weather) because the Needles Highway is closed to all vehicles during that time. You can still hike/snowshoe/ski it though! It’s so cool to be able to slowly and calmly enjoy this route, and all the beautiful views it offers, in peace.

No offense tourists, we love you guys! It’s just that during the busy, warm months, all the bustling of cars, busses, and motorcycles makes us miss our quiet, peaceful Hills. 😇

See below for a description of each trail:

Little Devils Tower Trail

This trail is around two miles long, in each direction. It is fairly wide and smooth and isn’t overly difficult (it does ascend the entire way out but the grade is low).

If you know where to look, the fabled Poet’s Table can also be found in this area. If you want a few hints on how to find it, click here.

Near the summit, the last several hundred feet does require scrambling over large, steep boulders. There are some absolutely gorgeous vistas on this trail, and from the summit, you can get great views of the Cathedral Spires…

Cathedral Spires Trail

You can reach this trail directly from the Little Devils Tower Trail or from the Cathedral Spires Trailhead on Needles Highway (if it’s open). At one-and-a-half miles in each direction, the hike is fairly flat, smooth, and well-marked. At its terminus, you will find yourself in an amphitheater. It is surrounded on three sides by rock spires that reach to the heavens as they tower overhead. Sounds reverberate off the rock causing a cacophony of noise. This is a prime area to stop for a quick lunch break and it is especially haunting in the fog when it creates a spooky, almost fairy-tale-like scene.

Green, pine trees in the snow in the foreground. In the background, gray, rocky spires reach to the clear, blue sky. — The Cathedral Spires!

Needles Highway

This connector section of the trail offers incredible views of Custer State Park and the town of Custer that sits directly to the south of the park. On clear days you can also see the plains that stretch to the east and south. It is truly a beautiful area! Watch for mountain goats here too as they favor the rocky, granite crags that this part of the state is known for.

Green, pine trees in the snow in the foreground. In the background, large, gray, pointy boulders under a clear, blue sky. — Can you spot the mountain goat?

Rear view of a woman and dog walking on a snow-covered path through a tunnel of pointy rocks. A sign on the rocks reads, "Needles Eye Tunnel". — Puppers and I entering the Needles Eye Tunnel! Can you believe full-sized buses fit through here?! True story!

Two large, rock structures, one with a long, narrow hole, all under a blue sky. — The Needles Eye!

The entire loop is around 9ish miles in total length so it’s a little long. However, there isn’t a lot of elevation gain as you’re already at one of the highest points in the Hills and the routes themselves aren’t difficult. I would rate this as a moderate hike.

So, if you’re looking for a fun and scenic way to see well-known parts of Custer State Park, check out this loop trail made from the Little Devils Tower and Cathedral Spires trails, and the Needles Highway!

Have you hiked these trails? Tell me about your experience in the comments!

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Barnes Canyon Trail in Custer State Park

In this post, I review a newer, lesser-known trail in Custer State Park.

The Barnes Canyon Trail is a relatively new hiking option located within Custer State Park. It is a great path as it is broad and easy to follow (being that it used to be a road 😉). Because it is so wide and well-graded it is appropriate for almost everyone in your party.

Where in Custer State Park is the Barnes Canyon Trail?

The trailhead is located on the eastern edge of the park, near Custer State Park Airport. It also connects through to the Badger Clark Memorial Trail which is located off of Route 16A, found farther west, and deeper within the park. (I discuss this portion of the trail in another post.)

How long is the hike?

The hike is around 10 miles in total length (4.7 miles in each direction). You only have to traverse as much of it as you want, of course. The road is out-and-back and was once used for forest and logging access. (It has now been closed to motorized vehicles.)

Many old maps show that the trail makes a loop. We didn’t see any obvious evidence of this on our hike. We found on several websites that the loop can be difficult to follow as one of the sections is heavily overgrown, not well-maintained, and not well-marked. If you want to try the whole loop be my guest, but be sure you have good maps and a compass with you as it may require some bushwhacking of your own trail.

A gravel road with tree-covered hillsides in the distance — This road is basically what the entire tail looks like

What will you see on the Barnes Canyon Trail?

The route includes hills and dips, but traveling east to west it generally traverses uphill. It isn’t a very steep or difficult trek, however, so it should be appropriate for almost anyone. In several places, it offers nice views of the surrounding prairies and wooded hillsides. While the majority of the trail mostly runs through forestland, you do cross a few meadowy areas, as well.

One nice thing about this trail is that it allows you to get out into the middle of Custer State Park. Here it is quiet and far from the many tourists that are frequently in the area. You may spot many different wildlife on your trek including deer, buffalo, elk, and bighorn sheep, not to mention a wide variety of birds and other forest critters. This is also a very quiet hike as the trail does not run near any major roads. Use your time here to soak up the tranquility, peace, and natural sounds of the forest.

When is the best time of the year to hike this trail?

This trail is appropriate to use at any time of the year, though it could be difficult to reach in deep snow or very muddy conditions. Also, if you attempt this hike during the colder months, you may want to bring traction devices, such as Yaktrax, to help you manage any icy sections that may form in shaded areas, especially on hills.

If you’re looking for a great trail that isn’t difficult but offers some beautiful views of the flora and fauna that make up the amazing scenery of the Black Hills, check out the Barnes Canyon Trail in Custer State Park!

Have you tried this new-ish trail? Tell me what you thought of the route in the comments!

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Lover’s Leap Trail, Custer State Park

In this post, I review this popular trail found in Custer State Park!

The Lover’s Leap Trail is one the Trekkers always enjoy at Custer State Park! This route is a great option almost any time of the year. It is of moderate length and is family-friendly.

Lover’s Leap Trailhead

The trailhead is located on the south branch of Highway 16A. To reach it you park in the lot for the old schoolhouse which is almost directly across the road from the Peter Norbeck Education Center. It also sits between the Custer State Park Resort and the Coolidge General Store on the south side of the road.

Hiking the Lovers Leap Trail in Custer State Park

This is a great loop trail! You will start with a bit of a strenuous hike up the side of the hill. From there you can choose which fork of the loop to take (we’ve enjoyed the trail in both directions).

If you choose the left fork, you will continue up a fairly strenuous climb to the overlook, this is also the “Lovers Leap”. If you choose the right fork, you will traverse a more gradual (though lengthier) trek that eventually climbs to the overlook near its end.

We have completed this trail on several occasions, though our favorite route is by taking the right branch at the fork. This trek takes you along the edge of the hill for a distance, on an almost shelf-like trail that gives you a nice view of the area through the trees. Eventually, you will wind your way down through a valley with a creek that meanders through it.

*Be aware, that this lower portion of the trail can get rather soggy and muddy during very wet times. You will see various trails that branch off from here, some are game trails, and others are used by people just walking from the road and parking lot into the creek to fish. Watch carefully for signs so you stay on the correct trail.*

There are some awesome views available from the lookout point. You will understand how the point got its name when you reach it. Be careful peering over the rocks, it’s a LONG way down from there! 😮

This one got my acrophobia going a bit. There are beautiful views of the pine-covered Black Hills offered from here, however, as well as the South Dakota plains that spread to the east. On clear days, you can even spot some of the rock spires and walls from the Badlands, rising from the flatter grasslands, almost 100 miles away!

Things you will see on the Lover’s Leap Trail

Depending on the time of year, you’re likely to see and hear many different birds throughout your trek. Chipmunks and squirrels may also scold you from the branches of nearby trees for invading their territory. Watch for two varieties of deer, both mule and white-tail, who call the park home, as well.

You can enjoy this trail almost any time of year, though snowshoes and/or traction devices may be warranted when snow and ice are present. This path is also a great option during the fall when the vibrant yellow of the aspen leaves contrast well against the dark, forever-green of the ponderosa pines.

How difficult is the Lovers Leap Trail?

I would rate this trail as moderate. It’s not overly long and much of it is shaded in the summer so it’s a cooler, hiking option. The path is also fairly wide and well-graded in most places with no real need to scramble over rocks unless you want a better vantage point at the lookout.

While this route has a few lengthy climbs, much of it rolls over the lower-elevation Black Hills that are found in this area. Visitors should be aware the park still sits at around 4000 feet or more, so if you are not used to the thinner air at these altitudes, you may notice some lightheadedness or shortness of breath when you exert yourself.

The next time you’re visiting Custer State Park and you’re looking for a shorter, less strenuous hike, check out the Lovers Leap Trail!

Have you hiked the Lovers Leap Trail in Custer State Park? Tell me about your experience in the comments!

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Centennial Trail: Badger Clark Trailhead to French Creek

In this post, I review the Badger Clark Trail, which connects with the Barnes Canyon Trail and the French Creek Horse Camp, in Custer State Park, in the central Black Hills.

Looking for a fun, beautiful location to hike that offers both an easier, family-friendly trail as well as a more challenging option? Check out a portion of the Centennial Trail that runs between the Badger Clark Trailhead and French Creek within Custer State Park!

This post is going to be a little unique as there are two options when hiking this trail.

Option 1: Badger Clark to Barnes Canyon Trail

This is the easiest and most family-friendly of the two options. It is about two-and-a-half miles in each direction.

Where is the Badger Clark Trailhead?

The trailhead is found off the Badger Clark Road, which is situated very near the junction of Route 16A (the southern route) and Route 87 (the Needles Highway). It is also found just to the east of the Legion Lake Lodge. All of these places are located within the central portion of the very large, Custer State Park, in the central Black Hills of western South Dakota.

The trailhead is found at the parking area for the Badger Hole Historic Site, which was the historical retreat of the poet laureate, Charles Badger Clark Jr., during the mid-1900s. He enjoyed vacationing here throughout his final 30 years of life. During the summer months, the home is open for touring, though in the winter, you can only tour the outside grounds.

A dog does a "puppy bow" on some fallen leaves mixed with snow. — Puppers recommends this trail!

What you will see on the Badger Clark Trail

This is a great trail! It’s got a few lengthy, steep portions, but for the most part, it meanders along through the rolling Black Hills that comprise this portion of the park.

The trail is quite scenic, snaking through forested hillsides and more arid, grassland areas. (This combination of ecosystems is common in this park.) You can also see some of the burn scars leftover from the terrible, Legion Lake wildfire that roared through this area in 2017. Some of the scenic views you will see from the trail include the grasslands of central South Dakota branching off to the east, and the green, pine-covered Black Hills surrounding you in all the other directions.

Many pine trees in the foreground with tree-covered mountains in the background, all under a blue sky. — A view from the trail!

This trail is not one of the more popular ones in the park, so it is fairly lightly-traveled. This is nice as it is quieter and allows you to more easily enjoy the peace and tranquility found in the park’s inner portions. You also won’t miss anything by taking this lesser-traveled trail as you’ll see much of the same scenery that is available throughout much of the rest of the park.

The shadows of two people are visible on a large rock. Behind the rock, many pine trees in the foreground with tree-covered mountains in the background, all under a blue sky. — Trekker shadows!

At its terminus, this trail ends at the Barnes Canyon Trail, another great, family-friendly option!

Option 2: Badger Clark Trailhead to French Creek

This is the more difficult of the two options. It is around four miles in each direction. I would NOT recommend this hike in the winter unless you have some serious traction devices, such as YakTrax. (These come in various options which you can check out below.) Several of the steeper slopes are in more shaded areas and/or on slopes that aren’t likely to see much sun in the colder months. Expect these areas to remain icy long after much of the rest of the trail has dried out.

YakTrax options: (†As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.)

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What you will see on your way to French Creek

This is one of the most difficult sections of the Centennial Trail that the Trekkers have hiked to date. It is VERY pretty but in a few sections, it’s the steepest terrain that we’ve seen on this trail. Be watchful, many of these areas are made slick with loose rocks, gravel, and pine cones that like to stymie your step!

You will see clumps of deciduous trees (mostly along waterways) mixed in with the majority Ponderosa Pines that cling to the hillsides.

This route runs to the French Creek Trail and a VERY nice horse camp located off of North Lame Johnny Road (the Centennial Trail continues to the south from here). There are a few water crossings over French Creek on this portion of the trail, and there are no bridges. Depending on the time of year, this could be problematic. (This is one of the few, local creeks that usually has water in it–depending on what portion of it you cross. We had to rock-skip when we did this route in late November–and that was in a drought year).

Normally, I would STRONGLY advise against crossing creeks during colder times of the year, it’s too risky that you can get wet and cold. But, this particular day we were only planning for a short hike of a mile or two so we knew we’d never be far from the car. It was also almost 70 degrees so it was VERY warm.

Watch signage carefully on this trail. We missed the turnoff for the Centennial Trail once as the sign marking it had been knocked over by a buffalo, scratching an itch 😮–oddly, this is a common occurrence in this park. 😝 So, we ended up on a horse trail, instead.

Where is the French Creek Trailhead?

This portion of the trail can be hiked from either direction. If you wish to start at the French Creek Trailhead, you can find it at the far end of the French Creek Horse Camp (just follow the main road through the campground till it ends.) There is a sign regarding hiking the Centennial Trail.

To reach the campground take the dirt road marked Route 4 from the Blue Bell Lodge area of Custer State Park (near the corrals used for horseback riding). There are signs pointing towards the horse camp. Note: Use caution on this route in the winter. It is not heavily traveled and it may not be maintained. The Blue Bell Lodge is located on Route 87 on the western side of the park.

This is a great way to see Custer State Park! On your next visit there, be sure to check it out! It will give you easy access to the inner, very scenic portions of the park that not everyone sees!

Have you ever hiked either of these trails? What did you think? Tell me about your experience in the comments!

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Hiking the Prairie Trail at Custer State Park

In this post, I review a great, moderate trail found off the Wildlife Loop Road in Custer State Park.

The Prairie Trail, in Custer State Park, is one the Trekkers really enjoy and have hiked on multiple occasions! It is a loop trail that is around three miles in total length.

This trek traverses multiple ecosystems throughout its duration. From cottonwoods and oaks that line the lower creek beds, to the higher, pine-forested hillsides and rolling prairies, this trail has it all! It’s crazy how you can experience multiple habitats in just a matter of minutes by ascending or descending just a few hundred feet.

Where is the Prairie Trail?

The trailhead is located on the south side of the Wildlife Loop Road, around six miles from the Blue Bell Campground, or 13 miles from the State Game Lodge, in Custer State Park. It consists of rolling hills, bits of pine forest, and grassland areas. The hike can get pretty steep in a few spots, while you climb or descend the next hill. Fortunately, none of these rises is overly lengthy.

What animals you will see on the Prairie Trail

You’ll see all sorts of critters on this trail, namely prairie dogs, turkeys, and buffalo.

This path actually has some of the busiest and most regular buffalo activity we’ve experienced in the Black Hills. They seem to enjoy lounging along the trail itself, so you should always be ready to turn around or alter your course if you come near them. We have hiked here on several different occasions, and rarely haven’t had to skirt a herd of bison. Dogs are allowed (and both dogs we’ve taken on it thoroughly enjoyed themselves). I would STRONGLY encourage you though, unless you have your pup under ABSOLUTE voice control, to keep them on a leash so they can’t antagonize the buffalo.

A few water crossings may be required depending on the level of the creek, and recent snowmelt or rainfall. Depending on its height, you may be able to cross it by jumping rocks or using the well-placed logs. There can also be times, during dryer spells, when the creek will almost run dry.

Hikers should also be watchful for rattlesnakes along the route. They are especially active during the summer months and tend to frequent the tall grass that flanks both sides of the trail.

What sites you will see on the Prairie Trail

Great views of the surrounding prairie and park are available from the tops of the hills. You may even be able to see the Badlands, far to the east, on a clear day.

Much of the trail crosses the open prairie, so be prepared for lack of shade when it’s warm out. This is supposed to be a prime area for spotting wildflowers in the summer (though I can’t speak to this personally. As the park tends to be pretty busy that time of year, we often avoid it, so we’ve never actually tried this trail during the summer).

We can complete the entire loop in about an hour, though this will vary on your speed, ability level, and if you choose to take any breaks or not (or if you’re required to take a detour around a buffalo herd). There are plenty of scenic spots that would be good for a picnic lunch, or just to view the surroundings and critters found nearby.

If you’re looking for a fun trail to hike in Custer State Park, that the whole family can enjoy, check out the Prairie Trail! In a short amount of time and space, you can experience much of the flora and fauna that is offered throughout the park!

Have you encountered buffalo on the Prairie Trail? Tell me about your experience in the comments!

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Hiking the Robber’s Roost Trail, Custer State Park

In this post, I review two adventures where we learned the value in seeking out the “boring” locales, even on “less-than-ideal” days.

Author’s Note: The Trekkers originally hiked the Robber’s Roost Trail in Custer State Park on a foggy, mild, January day. Many of the pictures below are from that trip. We have since returned in warmer weather and found it to be equally enjoyable so I’ve added a few more pictures!

Is it cold out, or windy, or really hot, or raining…then it’s not a good day to spend outside, right?…or is it?

The Robber’s Roost Trail, in Custer State Park, can be enjoyed in almost ANY weather!

One thing anyone who lives near mountainous terrain can tell you is the weather can change at a moment’s notice–which can be both good and bad–and it can vary greatly between nearby locations. The Trekkers have experienced this frequently.

One particular January day our local area was socked in with heavy, freezing fog. It was a damp, 30ish-degrees so it wasn’t exactly ideal for being out (though the hoarfrost on the trees was beautiful!)

Previous experience has shown us how variable our local weather can be, dependent on terrain. Due to this, we knew the weather in the Black Hills could be far different than what we were currently experiencing in town (being married to a meteorologist who can look up conditions in certain areas helps too 😉). So, we decided to try out the Robber’s Roost Trail in Custer State Park. We knew, at the worst, we would be able to enjoy a pretty drive and could get some nice hiking in, while at the best the weather could be FAR different as we climbed in elevation. Boy, was it!

A Foggy Drive through Custer State Park

As we headed for the park, Mr. Trekker made the prediction that we’d emerge from the fog shortly after passing the entrance sign (where the road begins to gain in elevation)…he was right on the money! (I’m gonna channel Johnny Depp from Pirates of the Caribbean and state, “There’ll be no living with him now.” 😝)

As we headed toward our trailhead, we made several stops for photo opportunities of the gorgeous hoarfrost the freezing fog had left behind. I can’t quite explain why, but that natural occurrence utterly fascinates me. The way the frozen crystals cling to the local flora can cause a smooth piece of bark to look almost furry. It reminds me of the tiny hairs on a spider’s legs.

Close-up view of bare tree branches that are covered in frosty needles of ice — Isn’t this incredible?

Hiking the Robber’s Roost Trail

When we arrived at our trailhead, the sun was shining brightly, and continued to do so…for the remainder of the afternoon! We had many opportunities to view the fog bank below us, in the lower elevations, but it never reached our altitude until the very end of our trek. By then, we had returned to the car and were wandering about, seeking out prime picture opportunities. 😁

A dirt path runs through a brown-grass meadow with pine tree-covered hillsides in the background. Fog rises over the trees and hills in the far background, all under a clear, blue sky. — The fog is coming!

A single, pine tree sits on a brown-grass hill with smoke rising over the pine trees in the valley behind, all under a clear, blue sky. — It was incredible, watching the fog slowly rise from the lower elevations.

The trail isn’t anything exciting, it’s just an old fire road that winds through prairie land, around and over hills throughout the park, but we had a great time!

The scenery used to be more picturesque, but after the large, Legion Lake Fire that swept through this area in December 2017, this portion of the park now consists, mainly, of a burn scar. For this reason, be aware, that in the warmer months, there is very little shade. You should be prepared for hot conditions.

If you’re looking for some additional fun activities to check out in Custer State Park, click here!

Where is the Robber’s Roost Trailhead?

The trailhead is located in the southern portion of Custer State Park, off of Oak Draw Road (just to the east of the Prairie Trail trailhead). You can reach that road from the southern arm of the Wildlife Loop Road (Route 16A).

The hike just follows an old, forest road, out-and-back, though it can be combined with other old roads, in the local area. These would make for a great hike, horseback, or mountain bike ride. (We’re planning to try this route on our bikes soon!)

A dog looks down a brown-grass hillside over an expanse of other hills in the distance, all covered by trees that appear to have been burnt. — Puppers enjoying the hike!

A dirt lane traverses a brown-grass hillside with a lone, pine tree on it's side and tree-covered hills in the background--some of the trees appear burnt. — You can see the burn scar in the distance

Below is a short video I took, at the end of the hike, of the coyotes’ haunting song that seemed to welcome the fog as it silently slipped back up the mountainside…(turn the sound up for this one!):

Below are a few more pictures of our trek. Thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker, for several of the pictures!

The sun shines through whispy fog as it rises above hills — To me, this picture feels otherworldly, like smoke rising from a scorched landscape (it is just fog).

A fog bow forms over a fog-covered trees under a clear, blue sky — Fogbow!

2 hiking boots covered in mud on the ground — Did I mention this trail can get a “bit” muddy? 😳😁

In Conclusion

Don’t be afraid to seek out the “boring” or “go-nowhere” treks, they can sometimes offer some surprises of their own. We enjoyed a great–albeit INCREDIBLY muddy–hike (basically in shirt sleeves)…in mid-January…in SOUTH DAKOTA! Whereas, if we had stayed at home, we may have felt depressed by the cold, damp, foggy day. So don’t be afraid to Get Out While the Gettin’s…Bad!

Have you had a positive experience where you ventured outdoors when the weather was less than perfect? Tell me about it in the comments!

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Hike the Sunday Gulch Trail in Custer State Park

In this post, I review the Sunday Gulch Trail, in Custer State Park, near Sylvan Lake.

As part of the incredible trail system offered by Custer State Park, the Sunday Gulch Trail is a must-hike! You will find the trailhead located behind the large rocks at the back of Sylvan Lake, off the Sylvan Lake Shore Trail.

Note: this trail is closed in the winter months due to ice buildup from the nearby creek.

Hiking the Sunday Gulch Trail

This loop trail is around three miles long and can be completed in either direction.

I suggest taking the right fork at the trailhead. This way, you’ll complete the most difficult portion of the hike first, and you’ll be doing it heading downhill. You will still end your trek with an uphill climb, but it will be far less strenuous than the alternate option.

Traveling this direction, the early portion of the trail is comprised of steps and large boulders that must be navigated—there is a handrail—as you make your way down the ravine. Once you reach the bottom, the path is relatively easy and flat while you traverse a canyon; until the final climb back to Sylvan Lake at the top.

In the hotter months, be prepared for a hot hike! Due to the gulch-like nature of the terrain, cool summer breezes often miss this area. Fortunately, the surrounding foliage provides significant shade opportunities (except when the sun is high, in the middle of the day).

As you continue down the canyon, your trek will eventually begin to wind uphill when you commence the final, LONG ascent back to the lake. The path is well-trodden and fairly smooth/free of debris, but it’s a long hill back to Sylvan Lake. You will hear more road noise on this portion of the trail as it parallels Route 87.

Pine trees with rock formations rising behind them — A view of the surrounding peaks from the top/end of the trail

Things you will see on the Sunday Gulch Trail

The trail is beautiful. As you descend into the ravine, granite cliffs tower far above you on both sides, while a bubbling brook accompanies you the entire way.

Once you reach the bottom of the gully, continue following the creek as it winds its way through the canyon. This area is very peaceful as there is little road noise–the only main route, nearby, is Route 87, and that snakes along the edge of the ridge far above you.

Rear view of a woman climbing down rocks while holding onto a metal railing — The Tranquil Trekker, navigating the steep, boulder section of the trail, through the ravine

Use caution when the path is wet, due to rain or snowmelt, as the creek often gushes across it when the water level is high. Even in late spring, be prepared for the possibility of ice where the route traverses the deep ravine, as it doesn’t get sufficient sunlight throughout much of the day.

Traction devices, such as Yaktrax, are highly recommended unless you are hiking this trail at the height of summer. (Click here for more information on these awesome traction devices!)

This trek can be managed by smaller children and pets, but they may require assistance with the really, rocky portions of the trail.

As it combines bouldering with a relaxing jaunt through the forest, this fun hike contains a wide selection of scenery and is a must-see for those wanting a bit more adventure. If you’re looking for a challenging and fun hiking trail on your visit to Custer State Park, check out the Sunday Gulch Trail near Sylvan Lake!

Have you hiked this awesome trail? Tell me about your experience in the comments!

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Hike the Norbeck Trail in Custer State Park

I review the Norbeck Trail, a low-use trail in the higher elevations of the Black Hills, near Custer State Park.

The Norbeck Trail is a beautiful, lesser-traveled hiking route situated within the Black Elk Wilderness. This is found within the boundaries of Custer State Park in the Black Hills of South Dakota.

How do you get to the Norbeck Trail in Custer State Park?

There are actually two trailheads to access the Norbeck Trail:

If you want a shorter hike and want to hit the more difficult, steeper sections sooner (while you have more energy) the Upper Norbeck trailhead comes first. It is located about .3 miles east of Sylvan Lake and about .1 miles east of the trailhead for the Cathedral Spires (all on the Needles Highway, Route 87.)

It’s kind of hard to find the trailhead because you can’t see it from the road and there isn’t any sign. Basically, once you pass the trailhead for the Cathedral Spires, start watching for a paved lane going off to the left. That’s the trailhead. (Sorry, that’s about the best description I can give. 😝)

To reach the main Norbeck trailhead, take Route 87 to Forest Road 345 (Camp Remington Road). Then take Iron Creek Horse Camp Road (which will be on your left). Watch for signs for the Iron Creek Horse Camp and the Iron Creek Centennial Trailhead as they’re both, also, found on this road. You will actually park at the horse camp, or just outside of it if the gates are closed (when we were there in mid-April the campground was still closed for the winter.)

Note: the Needles Highway is closed to vehicle traffic during the winter months. You can hike, snowshoe or ski it though (which can be a lot of fun!)

What you will see on the Norbeck Trail, in the Black Hills

The trail is comprised of picturesque, rolling terrain. It’s well-marked and wide enough for two people to walk side-by-side in some places. There are several water crossings that are small enough that they’re easy to cross but big enough to offer relief and respite on a hot day.

The ecology found along the length of the trail varies greatly from moist, almost temperate rainforest near the base, to dry, alpine forest near the top.

As you trek through these various ecosystems take note of the abundance of spruce trees in certain areas–usually on the northern slopes–that denote a wetter climate (you usually only see this variety in wetter locations in the Hills.)

What is the difficulty level of the Norbeck Trail?

The route is steep in parts, but the elevation changes are fairly moderate until you near the terminus of the trail where it joins with the Little Devils Tower trail. These last 2.5 miles of the trail gain 1000 feet in elevation! (To compare, we gained the same elevation amount on the Misty Moon trail in the Bighorn mountains of Wyoming over the course of five miles!)

This more difficult area is beautiful, though, as it snakes through a canyon complete with rocky, craggy overhangs and caves. You’ll see the backside of the Cathedral Spires towering over you to your left, and if you turn around you will be treated to beautiful views of the Southern Hills and plains to the south.

A word of advice: never let your focus on completing a trail keep you from looking around–and behind you! You never know what incredible views you may be missing if you’re solely focusing on the trail in front of you.

Pine trees and tree-covered mountains. Spindly rock on top of a mountain are in the far background — The rear view of the Cathedral Spires.

This trail doesn’t really “go” anywhere, per se, it’s more of a connector to other notable trails. It can be combined with different routes to form various loops depending on how long you wish to spend in the Wilderness Area. From the trailhead to the junction with the Little Devil’s Tower Trail, the route is a little over five miles (one way)–and as mentioned above it gets steep–so plan for a full day’s hike when considering this option.

We really enjoyed the hike and the ever-changing scenery was beautiful. There were some gorgeous vantage points and numerous opportunities for wildlife sightings. This trail is less well-known and, therefore, more secluded.

A portion of the trek does run near Route 87, for a time, so the summer months may be busier. Certain areas of the trail also traverse old burn scars so, if traveling in the summer, be prepared for lack of shade and a hot hike in some parts.

Person stands in an open space amongst deadfall of trees. A few scraggly pine trees remain standing. Rock mountains are in the far background — You can see the sparseness of the shade in some areas.

As with many other areas in the Black Hills, be watchful for deadfall as well as dead trees that remain, precipitously, standing (and their hanging, broken branches). These are remnants of the recent pine beetle infestation, and they can fall at any time, even on not-so-windy days.

A few scraggly pine trees standing amonst deadfall. Rock mountains are in the far background — Damage from the recent pine beetle infestation

If you’re looking for a fairly easy day hike, with nice views and few people, consider the Norbeck Trail!

Have you ever hiked this lighter-use trail? If so, tell me about your experience in the comments!

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Spokane, South Dakota (ghost town)

I discuss our discovery of the ghost town of Spokane, SD near Custer State Park.

There is a really cool, hidden site in the central Black Hills, the ghost town of Spokane, South Dakota! I was surprised how long we lived in the Black Hills before we heard about this location! 😳 (This is likely due to it not being well-publicized, even though it’s very near a major tourist attraction in the local area…)

The site was pretty amazing (it didn’t hurt that the day we visited was GORGEOUS!) I’d encourage you to research the town’s history as it’s pretty interesting. Spokane was an actual town at one point (rather than just a simple mining camp) complete with a schoolhouse and a general store.

While the majority of the buildings have been destroyed by fire and Mother Nature, we think we found the foundation of the old schoolhouse. The only structures still completely standing were a house with some outlying buildings. There is also a root cellar in the main valley and the mine manager’s home still sits on a hill, overlooking the former town that was nestled in the meadow below (or it would overlook the town if there weren’t trees in the way, now. 😉)

An old house in the woods, surrounded by pine trees — The mine manager’s house

Hazards in a Ghost Town

There are always numerous hazards to be VERY cautious of at these sites. Among a few other foundations, metal remnants, and ancient mining equipment, there was also an old well that had been sealed with a cement cover, but this has since been dislodged. While you could see the bottom, a fall of 20 – 50 feet could be deadly, and either way, the rescue operation would be difficult for all involved. (This is another time it’s important to remember you can NOT rely on cell service when in the mountains).

*Let’s talk safety for a bit, shall we? When you visit ruins of old towns, mines, natural caves, etc. safety should be your #1 priority (respect for the site should be a VERY close #2). These buildings can be dangerous. The wood is rotting, most are in the process of falling down. Many have basements/root cellars (that you may not even be aware of). If you fall through the wood into these, you could be seriously injured.

Many of these buildings are also havens for rattlesnakes and other critters who may not appreciate you barging in (a mountain lion could be using a cool, abandoned root cellar as a place to nap.)

Old mines can collapse or cave-ins–even in natural caves–can occur at any time and with little to no warning. I cringe whenever I see pictures of people venturing into abandoned mines. 🤦‍♀️ So, adventure at your own risk, but, the Trekkers NEVER encourage people to actually venture into any of these structures. They can be enjoyed perfectly well and safely from outside. (You should be watchful even in the outside areas around these old sites. You never know when old holes, sharp metal pieces, or even disgruntled snakes may be camouflaged by the tall grass that often surround the structures.)

A hole a foot or more deep sits in the ground, lined with thin, regular rocks placed on top of each other. The hole is overgrown with grass and weeds on the bottom and the sides. — This hole in the ground appeared to be constructed, not sure if it was an old well, or what. This is what I’m talking about with safety, though. This hole was in the middle of what used to be the yard, without a cover or barrier around it.

Unique sites in Spokane, South Dakota

One unique aspect of this ghost town (at least compared to others the Trekkers have visited) is the presence of old cars! Most of the towns we’ve toured had heydays in the late 1800s when horse and cart were the primary source of travel. This town hit it’s prime in the 1920s (and wasn’t abandoned until the 1940s) so the unusual site of motor vehicles and evidence of electrical wiring on the buildings felt out of place.

The cab of a rusted, old truck with no windows sits on the ground, in a meadow, surrounded by trees. — I LOVE this old truck!

Where is the Spokane ghost town?

In order to help preserve the integrity of the site, I’m not going to give the exact directions to this location–other than what is already available with a simple Google search. I will give a few hints though:

- - It’s near Custer State Park (VERY, near). You can reach the site using Playhouse Road and/or Iron Mountain Road.
  - There are two entrances to the site. The main entrance, described in Google, requires a half-mile (or so) walk up a steep, rocky, abandoned forest road to reach the valley. We–somewhat accidentally–stumbled on the back entrance with an easy walk of only about 1/8th of a mile to reach the meadow.
  - The rest of the discovery is up to you (as I said, Google is your friend!)Author’s Note: In recent years the site has become more popular. Unfortunately, that means it’s also been vandalized–it’s too bad there are a few jerks out there who insist on ruining the fun for everyone–Some barriers have been erected in recent years to help keep people away from the buildings to hopefully help mitigate the damage. If you want clearer instructions on how to reach the site, you may contact me via social media as indicated below, or by using my contact form, and I may be able to help you a little more. (I won’t give precise instructions–that ruins the fun!–but I can give a few more helpful hints. 😇)

The mood this site created was pretty cool. The sun-dappled trees and forest floor make shadows flit on the ruins. You can almost smell the musky scent of horse, and hear the horses, wagons–and cars?! 😳–that trundled down the rutted, dirt road, as the wind rattles the dry leaves of the aspen trees that border the ramshackle houses.

While visiting the ghost town, why not check out Iron Mountain Road found nearby, as well?

This location would also make for a creepy adventure during the Halloween season! 👻 The site was pretty haunting, between the dilapidated old cars and buildings, you got a sense that this is what a post-apocalyptic society would look like (I may have been watching too much Walking Dead lately.) 😜

Below are some more pics of our adventure (thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker for many of these)!