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The Backroads of Colorado

This post outlines our adventures on several Colorado backroads, including some at State Forest State Park and around the Crested Butte area.

On our 2018 road trip in the Colorado High Country, we really wanted to improve our 4×4 driving (and navigation) skills. Fortunately, there are a number of backroads in Colorado that are perfect for this!

One series of books we found to be incredibly helpful is A Guide to Colorado Backroads†. It’s actually a series of books covering the northern, central, and southern regions of the state. These provide helpful information on the roads and trails including their difficulty level, equipment needed to successfully complete them, and details on each of the routes’ conditions.

Below is a listing of the new roads we enjoyed:

Montgomery Pass Road, State Forest State Park

The first road we mastered, the Montgomery Pass Road at State Forest State Park, ended up being the most technical route we attempted on the entire trip. This out-and-back trek is listed as “moderate” in the guidebook. It was fun, though, definitely, challenging. A high clearance, 4WD vehicle is required and skid plates are an added benefit–we were VERY glad for them as we scraped across one particular rock. Several spots even required me to exit the vehicle and play “spotter” for Mr. Trekker to assist him in navigating the obstacles…it was fun! 😁 The road was wide, with room to pass in most spots, and mostly traversed the forest, so, it lacked the stomach-churning shelf roads we experienced on much of the rest of the trip.

The road ends before it reaches the top of Montgomery Pass, and the final half-mile or so must be completed on foot. It’s an easy hike (minus the altitude) as the trail is an abandoned forest road. It was windy at over 11,000 feet, but the incredible views of the Never Summer Mountains and the promise of the 360-degree vista at the top provide motivation despite beleaguered lungs.

Hand holding an analog dial showing a little over 11,000 feet elevation — Made it to the top of Montgomery Pass!

The wildflowers had begun to carpet the surrounding meadows while snow still blanketed portions of the nearby peaks (in early July!) Another quality of this wilderness area is that we felt like we had the entire mountain to ourselves on a Monday morning, seeing only two other groups for the duration of the excursion. You can also hike the entire way to the peak from the other side of the mountain. The trailhead is found off Route 14 on the eastern edge of the park.

A small, rock cairn in the foreground with a grassy meadow spreading out behind. A spine of grass and tree-covered mountain peaks can be seen in the distance with occasional spats of snow — The view from the summit

Bockman Road, State Forest State Park

We supplemented the adventure above with a side trip down Bockman Road which intersects the Montgomery Pass Road farther down the mountain. This road was easy, I think my CRV may have been able to handle it if you were careful on a few of the bumpy sections. It was dirt, but wide enough for two vehicles and mostly graded. It made for a fun, relaxing afternoon as a bubbling creek accompanied us for much of the trip, as well as countless more wildflowers (have I mentioned the wildflowers are beautiful in Colorado this time of year?) 😉

Gothic Road near Crested Butte

Probably the most nerve-wracking drive we completed was Gothic Road, from Gothic ghost town to Schofield Pass–I discuss Gothic in this post.

The road is in good condition–a sedan could probably negotiate it. The problem we ran into was that it is a 1 1/2-lane shelf road with a significant drop-off at one side and no barrier–a frequent condition we encountered on Colorado back roads.

When we were there it was also INCREDIBLY busy; filled with 2-way traffic in addition to hikers and mountain bikers. Part of the trouble was that we were there on a weekend in July (our fault, it was just the way the trip itinerary worked out). But the horde of visitors combined with people who are unaccustomed to driving in those white-knuckle conditions made for what felt like a genuinely unsafe situation from time to time.

From the top of the pass, a dangerous 4×4 road continues on through the acclaimed “Devil’s Punchbowl” to Crystal Mill–one of the worst 4×4 accidents in Colorado history occurred on this road. We chose NOT to take that route, 😝 but check out this post for the 4×4 adventure we had on Forest Road 314 from Marble to Crystal Mill!

Schofield Pass and Slate River Road

Once we reached Schofield Pass, we completed the loop via Slate River Road (Forest Road 734) through Paradise Divide. This section was not only FAR quieter and more relaxing, but it was also one of the most scenic drives I’ve ever been on (it made the other half of the loop worth the gray hairs). 😉

Pine trees frame the rugged slopes of green, tree-covered mountains in the background — Paradise Divide

Showcasing towering mountains donning green meadows, grass-covered avalanche chutes, and streaming rivers fueled by snowmelt, this drive is incredible! We were fortunate enough to grab one of the last remaining dispersed campsites in this area that was nestled right next to a small canyon. We fell asleep listening to the water coursing through it that night!

Short, green, tree and grass-covered canyon walls with a small stream/waterfall flowing among them — Waterfall along Paradise Divide

An orange rooftop tent sits on a trailer in front of a truck with an awning. This is in a clearing with tall pine trees surrounding it — Our campsite

Below is a video I took of the Divide. Be patient with me, my videographer experience is minimal, the road was bumpy, and this was taken on an iPhone. But…this valley was so INCREDIBLY beautiful, I had to share this with you! You can see why they gave it the name they did! 😎

The drive from Rifle to Grand Mesa Colorado

Even when not looking for a 4×4 adventure, we learned that travel on Colorado back roads can be an interesting experience. We drove the back route from Rifle to Grand Mesa National Forest, taking Dry Hollow Road from Silt. Then we continued, via Route 270, into Colbran and then took Route 121 to enter Grand Mesa the back way.

The drive was lovely! The eclectic scenery transitioned from desert-like scrubland in the Rifle area to aspen forest in the higher elevations, then to rolling farmland in the valleys (that reminded us of Pennsylvania) before ending in the spruce forests that comprise the Grand Mesa area.

Related Posts: Guide to Colorado Backroads and 4-Wheel-Drive Trails: Book Review, The Best Hidden Gems of Northern Colorado, 7 “Must-See” Colorado Ghost Towns, The Drive to Crystal Mill in Colorado

I mentioned earlier that the gazetteer didn’t always differentiate road surfaces well. We found the regular road atlas (and the 4×4 book mentioned above) gave far better indications of what to expect for the actual conditions of the roads…

…In this situation, these routes were indicated to be “major connectors” (and I’m sure they were for that, extremely rural, area). However, this indication included roads that varied from paved and painted to those that are dirt/gravel, with some being extremely rough due to a washboard surface. They were, often, also, narrow and winding (where two, full-size vehicles may struggle to pass). Many also hugged the sides of cliffs on shelf roads. They offered incredible views but may be alarming to people who aren’t accustomed to those conditions.

We had a great time, but I note this so people are aware these conditions can make travel more difficult and may require you to budget additional time to complete the drive.

Green grass and trees in the foreground spreading out to rocky, tree-covered mountains in the background. White puffy clouds on a blue sky — Viewpoint on the road to Grand Mesa from Silt

These portions of our trip were thrilling, nerve-wracking, and challenging. However you manage to do it, whether it be machine-powered by a 4×4 vehicle or using your own two feet, I’d encourage you to venture out onto these lesser-traveled routes (as you are comfortable, of course). You’ll see sites and experience adventures that the average person misses on the more well-traveled highways. It will give you a whole different appreciation for the nature that surrounds us.

Have you ever tried out any of these Colorado backroads? Tell me about your experience in the comments!

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The Terry Peak Lookout Tower

The Terry Peak summit road and lookout near Lead, SD.

Several years ago, I had family visiting the Black Hills from the great (albeit flat) state of Indiana. 😊 They rented a cabin up near Terry Peak (and were almost blown out of it by the, incredibly unusual, tornado that went within a short distance of where they were staying!) 😳

My aunt and uncle brought their ATV along and were seeking an interesting destination to drive it to, so, we checked out the Terry Peak Lookout Tower. Mr. Trekker and I had visited there once before but it was cold and windy and we weren’t able to locate the trail to the actual tower. This time, thanks to my aunt’s keen eye, we found it!

Where is the Terry Peak Lookout Tower?

The turnoff for the summit road can be found about four miles west of Nevada Gulch Road (the road you turn on to reach the Terry Peak Lodge). Once you turn onto that road it’s about a three-mile drive to the summit. The summit road is a dead-end, dirt road, but it is fairly well graded.

I completed the drive in my Subaru Outback with no problem, so, any passenger vehicle–and certainly any truck or ATV with higher clearance–should be able to manage it (at least in good conditions). There were a few rocks to negotiate, so, a typical, stock, sedan should take it easy. The driver should gauge for themselves if the vehicle can clear the obstacles. The road becomes a bit of a shelf road in a few spots (with no guardrail), so, while it can be easily managed, drive with caution.

The road is wide enough for vehicles to pass, throughout, and while you aren’t likely to see many others on your drive, be watchful for those coming the other way (especially in areas where the hill you’re cresting is steep and/or the curve you’re negotiating is sharp). The panoramic vistas of the surrounding hillsides, blanketed in aspen and pine, are spectacular though!

The sign for the trailhead is small and almost at ground level right next to the trail. As you pull into the parking turnaround, the trail is to the right and almost behind you (depending on where you park). If there are any snowdrifts around, the sign could easily be buried (which may be why Mr. Trekker and I missed it on our first attempt).

The Lookout itself can be achieved via a short hike up the hill using the charming cobblestone path that was intended for the purpose (there is a gravel road that can be driven–or traversed on foot–though it’s rather steep and narrow).

Once you reach the tower, there is a short flight of metal stairs that must be climbed to reach the platform on top (though there are some lovely views from the base of the tower, as well). Even speaking as an acrophobe, I didn’t find the height to be alarming. The Lookout is placed in the middle of the hill with no steep drop-offs in the vicinity.

Be aware, this is one of the higher points in the Black Hills and it tops out at just a little over 7000 feet (so flatlanders may find themselves huffing and puffing to excess). 😉 Full disclosure: Mr. Trekker and I live at around 3000 feet and we find ourselves breathing a little extra hard hiking at that altitude. 😜

Cobblestone steps ascend a hill through the trees — The cobblestone path leading to the Lookout

What you’ll see from the Terry Peak Lookout Tower

The lookout provides a spectacular, 360-degree view of the Black Hills. On clear days you should even be able to see parts of Montana, Wyoming, and North Dakota, as well. You can search out the various peaks in the local area (Crow Peak, Big Hill, etc.) and you get a unique view of the back side of the Terry Peak ski lift.

The scenery would be more attractive without the large communication towers and their guide wires that populate the summit. I wouldn’t recommend being up there during a lightning storm! 😱

Panoramic view of the flat lookout platform with many radio antennas in the background. — Did I mention the towers? 😩

We also had a commanding view of the Wharf Mine as well as several others scattered around the local area, and their “leavings” on our beautiful Black Hills (if you’re noting derision in my tone, you would be noting correctly). 😡

But, this blog is all about tranquility and focusing on the positives, so, I’ll end my critique of the mines there. My momma always taught me to look for the good things in life, so, I’ll offer one positive critique. At least the mines provide good-paying jobs to local residents (though I slept better before phrases like “large vat of cyanide” ever entered my lexicon). 😒

Ski lift and building on a grassy hill with mountains in the background. — The Terry Peak ski lift

The three of us enjoyed the lookout so much, I took the rest of my relatives back there later in the day. On the first trip, the colors of the surrounding Hills were muted by clouds. However, by that afternoon, the sun had returned and its light, along with the shadows it created with the remaining clouds, made for spectacular viewing.

More pics from the top!

A hazy view from the top of the mountain — Lead as seen from the summit. If you look really carefully in the distance you can see Bear Butte materializing through the haze.

An ATV drives down a steep, gravel road through the trees — My aunt and uncle driving down from the Lookout (I make no claims, pro or con, regarding the license plate on the front). 😇

If you’re looking for a unique place to visit in the northern Black Hills, check out the Terry Peak Lookout Tower!

Have you visited the lookout? What did you think? Tell me about it in the comments!

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NOLS Wilderness First Aid

The Trekker’s learned some Wilderness First Aid skills on a trip to Bozeman, Montana!

Since the Trekkers spend so much time in the wilderness, we thought it would be wise to take a Wilderness First Aid class.

The one we attended was in Bozeman, Montana, and was hosted by NOLS (National Outdoor Leadership School) and Crossing Latitudes. Together. They offer events and trainings all over the US, and the world, that range from weekend-long First Aid classes to semester-long Wilderness EMT and Rescue courses. They also offer leadership and wilderness skills training expeditions.

Most of the First Aid classes are offered at YMCAs, church camps, or local parks, though your local REI may host one, as well. For more information on what they have available, you can visit their websites here and here.

Visit Bozeman, Montana

Since there are no REIs in South Dakota and we wanted a more authentic experience, we opted for one of the park/camp locations. We had several options to choose from in both Colorado and Montana (all similar distances from us).

We had visited Bozeman briefly in 2014, on our way to Yellowstone, and had been wanting to return to explore it more in-depth so we thought this would be the perfect opportunity. We were surprised at how much Bozeman had grown in just the few years since we had last been there. We were also surprised at how crowded and busy the area felt, especially seeing as how our city is almost twice the size of this small hamlet. The new construction, busy streets, and “mountain feel” reminded both of us of Colorado’s Front Range towns. Bozeman has a fantastic downtown that is well-maintained with lots of dining and recreational opportunities throughout the year. It has an “old West” feel to it, and with many of the small boutiques, it reminded me of our foray into Telluride, Colorado from several years ago.

What are the NOLS Wilderness First Aid classes like?

The company was great to work with. They were quickly responsive to questions and the training offered was fun, comprehensive, and professional.

The course was a little pricey, but you get what you pay for! It was INTENSE! We completed 20 hours of First Aid training in two days (10 hours each day). We’ll have to revisit our notes from time to time to keep what we learned fresh in our minds but it was incredibly useful!

The weekend was absolutely exhausting and incredibly educational. Much of what we learned was common sense but was often things you may not think about unless specifically told.

The courses encompassed both classroom as well as “real world”, outdoor, training scenarios. We even got to practice the skills we were learning on “patients” covered in fake blood! 😳 For those who easily become queasy, this course may challenge you (though you’d have to face this issue in a real-world situation so this is good practice).

A person sits on concrete. This hand is covered with fake blood with a simulated spike through the hand. — You take a First Aid class and they stick a spike through your hand! 😳 *Note, no bloggers were injured in the simulation of this injury, and yes, I volunteered for this part.* 😁

Ousel Falls near Big Sky, Montana

We chose to take the scenic route back home. We had hoped to work our way back through the northern loop of Yellowstone, into Cook City, Montana, and down the Beartooth Highway to Cody, Wyoming. Alas, there was still several feet of snow blocking some of the passes on that route.

Instead, we traversed the southern Montana plains that border the mountains before winding through the Bighorns in northeastern Wyoming that evening.

We also took a side trip to Big Sky, Montana, and hiked out to see Ousel Falls. It was a beautiful hike, down and through a canyon formed by the “South Fork of the West Fork of the Gallatin River”–yes, the sign actually says that! ☺️ It was a bit more “touristy” than Rocky Mountain National Park’s version of a similarly named falls, but it offered both a hiking and a separate mountain bike trail.

The hike is incredibly scenic, paralleling the river much of the way. At only about 1.5 miles round trip, the trek is not overly difficult as the trail is graded, but it is rather steep in places. At that altitude (over 7000 feet), some may find it a challenge. We almost had the place to ourselves on a Monday morning in mid-May, though I would expect more company during the summer season and on weekends.

A snow-covered mountain in the background with pine trees covering its lower sides, all under a blue sky with white clouds. — Montana Countryside

A white, frothing river runs between a pine tree-covered riverbank and tall, rock walls with pine trees on their rim. — The Gallatin River

A white, frothing river runs between pine tree-covered riverbanks and tall, rock walls with pine trees on their rim.

A white, frothing river runs between pine tree-covered riverbanks

A white, frothing waterfall cascades between pine tree-covered riverbanks — Ousel Falls, Big Sky, Montana

We made several new, large, ungulate friends (of the moose variety) in the Big Horns. A word of advice, while evenings and mornings are a bad time for hiking in bear country, if you’re specifically interested in scouting for wildlife, this is an exceptional time to be out! We saw four moose over the course of several miles (and just a few hours) while traversing Route 14 through the northern half of the Bighorns.

We were also able to enjoy the beautiful views and felt like we had the entire National Forest to ourselves (I’m sure it, again, helped that it was a Monday night during the shoulder season). We ended our trip with a stay in one of our favorite towns, Buffalo, Wyoming, and breakfast at one of our favorite haunts, the Busy Bee Cafe. I lauded its attributes in a previous post.

Rocky mountains shrowded in misty rain in the background with green hills in the foreground — Bighorns, Wyoming

A paved road meanders through rocky, canyon walls with green grass and trees interspersed throughout

A cow moose stands in the grass with a fence and trees behind her — Moose!

Lessons Learned from the NOLS Wilderness First Aid class

To close, I’m gonna get a little pensive for a minute (you’ve been warned!) 😋 In some ways this First Aid class was a negative for me. It made me acutely aware of all the various potential hazards that are present for us when we venture out into Nature. This is difficult for someone who struggles with anxiety (especially, health anxiety).

Risk is an inherent part of life though (especially for someone who is a self-described klutz). Instead of trying to remove it from our presence completely, which is impossible, we should, instead, seek to minimize it as much as is reasonably possible (a criterion which, in itself, is a personal choice for each person).

For me, First Aid training was a step to minimize that risk. It made me better aware of how to treat injuries/illnesses should they occur, and what signs to look for that indicate a situation has become severe. It also armed me with the knowledge that will help me remain calm if injuries/illnesses do occur (whether in the backcountry or in our daily lives). Knowledge is power, so I would encourage anyone who regularly ventures into the wilderness to take a class like this.

This class did strengthen my resolve that recreating in the backcountry, alone, is never advisable (and your 4-legged friend doesn’t count as a partner. 😇)

I know that’s a bit of a controversial position to take, and, to each his own, ultimately. This is just my personal opinion, we all have to decide what is best for us.

But, there are numerous situations where any of us could quickly become incapacitated in the wilderness to the point where we can’t escape without assistance from others. This could be a traumatic injury, severe dehydration/hypothermia, heat or water-borne illness, animal attack, etc. We always need to remember that cell phones are frequently without service in the wild, and devices like GPS can be rendered unreliable in certain terrains (such as canyons).

So, I just ask that before you venture out alone, take an extra few seconds to consider if you’ll be able to save yourself if the situation requires? If not, perhaps think twice before embarking solo. Besides, partnering up with people is an opportunity to make new friends!

Have you taken any Wilderness First Aid Courses? Tell me about your experience in the comments!

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Driving the Medano Creek Road at Great Sand Dunes National Park

In this post, I review a 4×4 driving class the Trekkers took and our adventure at Great Sand Dunes National Park.

Author’s note: In a previous post regarding one of our epic, summer road trips, I mentioned we canceled plans at this locale due to me falling ill. I had originally intended this adventure as a present for Mr. Trekker for achieving Tenure, but, since our plans got changed, it ended up being an anniversary trip instead.

The Great Sand Dunes National Park is located in south-central Colorado, near the small town of Saguache. The park is nestled among the beautiful Sangre de Cristo Mountains in the San Luis Valley.

We were able to reschedule our trip for the fall (which consequently is a much prettier time to visit that area due to leaf colors. It’s also less busy and much cooler, all pluses in the Trekker book! Ya’ll know how I LOVE the heat! 😓)

Unbeknownst to us, when we had originally planned to visit, in early June, is one of the busiest times at the park. This is when the creek runs high due to snowmelt in the mountains.

The Great Sand Dunes are situated in a GORGEOUS location!

We woke up the first morning surrounded by a 360-degree view of the rounded peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Gorgeous pictures painted the walls of the rental house, reflecting the spectacular scenery found in the surrounding area.

I’ve waxed lyrical about our love for Air B&B’s before. This choice was a simple, rustic old farmhouse that had been renovated. The kitchen was well-stocked with the cooking equipment/utensils you might need and beautiful cabinetry adorned the walls. The home offered plenty of room for a family to sleep and is centrally located in the San Luis Valley, making an ideal base camp for day treks to the Great Sand Dunes or any hiking, 4×4-ing, or winter sports you want to engage in within the surrounding area.

A small kitchen with charming, wooden cabinets — The adorable kitchen in the rental house

Panoramic view of a reddish sunrise with purple clouds over the dark silhouette of mountains — Sunrise over the Sangre de Cristo range

Related post: Aliens and Sandhill Cranes in the San Luis Valley!

4×4 trails at Great Sand Dunes National Park

We rented a jeep for the weekend and spent Saturday in a hands-on 4×4 driving class. We learned proper tire placement, how to navigate various routes (picking the correct line, sticking to the high ground), as well as acquiring safety tips and how to get ourselves out of sticky situations (such as fashioning a winch using a hi-lift jack to get a vehicle out of a bind).

We then spent Sunday trekking around Great Sand Dunes National Park, driving the Medano Pass Primitive Road, and getting sandblasted on the dunes (it was windy that day!)

Medano Creek, which you cross numerous times when driving the Primitive Road, runs fairly low in the fall which made for easier crossings for us novices. If you want the challenge of higher water crossings early June through summer would be a better time to visit (though there are times in spring when the road is closed due to extremely high water from snowmelt and spring rains.) Also, as the road is two-way but is only one lane wide, there were times we found it complicated to navigate while leaving room for others to pass. I can’t imagine how this challenge may be exacerbated in the crowded, summer months.

Pathfinders 4×4

We rented the jeep through Pathfinders 4×4 and its proprietor, Cam Benton, taught the class. The company offers jeeps for rent as well as jeep tours and 4×4 driving classes. You can find out more at Pathfinders 4×4.

I cannot say enough about Cam, he was incredible! He was friendly, personable, and a wonderful teacher. Not only did he allow us to cancel our original reservations inside the 5-day “no cancellations” window, but he also gave us an almost total refund (with the exception of our initial deposit which he then credited back to us when we rescheduled).

Cam also owns several Air B&B properties. We had originally reserved a room in his home for that weekend but the week before our arrival he suggested we could use the nearby rental house, which he also owned, if we preferred. It provided more privacy, more space for us, and was actually more centrally located to our planned activities for that weekend. The cost of the home was close to double the cost of the room we actually paid for but he offered it to us for no extra charge.

**To be clear, Cam has not reimbursed me in any way for giving him this glowing review, I just firmly believe in giving credit where credit is due. 😁

As is often true for mountain weather, we were able to experience multiple seasons in just a few days. The weekend was full of clear blue skies and warm temperatures in southern Colorado, and we had intended to stay through Sunday night. However, with impending Winter Storm warnings for the Denver area on Monday (Denver was between us and home) we opted to leave Sunday afternoon instead. Not all was lost though. This change in travel plans allowed us to enjoy a leisurely, beautiful fall drive on scenic US 285 through the South Park area and Trout Creek Pass back to Denver, and on Monday we were able to enjoy our first snow of the season!

Below are some more pictures from our weekend of fun. Thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker for several of these!