An Amazing Southeastern US Road Trip

I review a road trip to Florida, and discuss thoughts I often have on the open road, and why I enjoy lengthy road trips so much!

On an amazing, southeastern road trip one Thanksgiving, the Trekkers experienced 9 days, 13 states, 4,433 miles, 1 snowstorm, 3 seasons and numerous ecosystems.  We were invited to spend the holiday in Florida, with family.  Neither Mr. Trekker, nor I, had been there in at least a decade, and we realized we’d never visited together.  

We also figured out a route that allowed us, both, to check off another item on both of our “bucket lists”…after this trip, both Mr. Trekker and I have visited all 48 of the continental US states!  {Note: the Trekkers are currently accepting donations to fund trips to States #49 and #50… 😉–Based on my above statement, you should be able to guess which two states these are. 😉} 

Oil Refineries, Route 66 and the Ozarks!

We enjoyed some unique experiences on this trip:

–We saw oil refineries that twinkle across the bays as they hug the coast.  I prefer green energy, but, there’s a certain beauty connected with these structures (at least at night).

They remind me of the old, steel factories you see in Gary, Indiana, near where I grew up.  There, an eerie, orange glow emanates from them and the reflection glitters on nearby Lake Michigan.  In Louisiana, the bays of the Gulf of Mexico proffer a similar effect.

Bright lights shine and are reflected across a bay of water at night.

View from a car on a bridge: bright lights shine and are reflected across a bay of water at night
Some of the refineries are HUGE!

View from a car on a bridge: bright lights shine and are reflected across a bay of water at night


–We drove another portion of Route 66!  I had forgotten it runs through Missouri until we stumbled on it while surveying the map.  We had last seen that route on a trip through New Mexico in 2017.

A blue and white road sign reads, "Historic Byway, Missouri US 66"

A mural on the side of an old, cement building shows a picture of an old car driving past a large road sign which reads, "Joplin Missouri, You're in Historic Route 66"; along with a Route 66 road sign. Below this is painted a road map across the US with Route 66 signs.


–I was also able to experience the beauty of the Ozarks for the first time (Mr. Trekker had been there before.)  I had no idea how lovely the majority of Missouri and western Arkansas are with their rolling farmlands and forested hills.  Fall also runs a little later in those states, so we got to enjoy the late, remaining foliage as well! (Note to the Missouri Department of Transportation, your snow management on your highways could use some work. 😝)

–We experienced multiple seasons on this trip.  When we left South Dakota it was 15 degrees out!  We enjoyed fall colors in the Ozarks and through beautiful, northern Georgia.  Then, at the end of the weekend, we fast-tracked it back to South Dakota to outrun the impending, winter storm that was bearing down on the lower Midwest. 😳

THIS is why we drive rather than fly (this, the TSA and the fact that I hate those cramped machines! 😉)–I’m not afraid of flying, per se, it’s the crashing-to-a-fiery-death-in-a-cramped-metal-tube-from-30,000-feet-up that scares me. 😝

Cross-country travel in a car also allows you to truly experience the varying landscapes and cultures that are present throughout our wonderful country. In addition to the US being a “melting-pot” of various people and religious identities, it showcases a cornucopia of landscapes as well.  On every road trip we take I’m always amazed at the various scenes and inhabitants we encounter.  

Things you’ll notice when you visit the “Lower 48”: 

The South

This region is characterized by cotton fields, salt marshes and flat, coastal plains.  Comprising a portion of the “Bible Belt”, folks here are friendly, though they’re often quick to spot that, “ya’ll ain’t from around here are ya?” 😉

The Northeast/New England

Highlighted by rolling, hilly, farmland, heavily-forested mountains and flat, coastal plain; many think of this region as sporting “city-folk” with fast-paced lifestyles.  There’s plenty of “country folk” outside the urban centers who may disagree with that assessment, though.

The Midwest and Great Plains

This area is comprised mostly of flat farmland.  Many think of it as boring, flyover country.  It may not be as exciting as other regions, but this area has a unique beauty of its own.  Being that I grew up there, its charmingly simple way of life will always hold a piece of my heart.  And you can’t beat their sunsets over the “amber waves of grain” (and cornfields). 😉  The folks who live here, residing fully in the ‘Bible Belt”, are known for their friendliness (and tornadoes!  It’s THE place to be, in the country, for storm chasing! 🌪) 

The West

I would define the borders of this area as the country west of the Missouri River (excluding the West Coast) and north of the Desert Southwest.  In my personal opinion, you can’t beat the beauty of the craggy mountains that are found here.  They don’t call this area “God’s Country” for nothing.  

In my experience, some of the friendliest people I’ve encountered live in the rural West.  This is an interesting contrast to, what can be, a difficult life.  Living in the West is a whole other ballgame.  The land is rugged, the weather is harsh, and its residents have to be tough.  It’s a place that, even in the 21st Century, has to be survived.  Maybe this fosters kinship among those who choose to brave its challenges?  Here, the weather and nature–both flora and fauna, can, quite literally, kill you.  But the people who call this, immensely beautiful and often desolate place, “home”, won’t make you regret a visit.

The West Coast (ie: the western halves of the West Coast states)

It’s amazing how different the various sides of these states can be!  The eastern halves of Washington, Oregon, and California are comprised of more rural, scrub and farmland, and the people trend toward a more conservative ideology. 

**The two halves are split but rugged mountains!**

The western halves of these states are flatter, far wetter, coastal plains; sometimes ranging to a temperate, rainforest climate.  The people who reside there are usually categorized as metropolitan.  I was, pleasantly surprised, though, by the light-hearted lifestyle of the LA area.  

Texas/the Desert Southwest

Texas is one area I can’t speak much to, as we haven’t spent enough time there for me to get a feel of it (a problem we’re hoping to correct). 🤞  I do know it’s hot and dry, though.  😅  The rest of the Desert Southwest shares characteristics with the West! 

The statements above are just generalizations, of course.  As we’ve traveled around the country, I’m always amazed how cultures vary within these local regions, as well.  

As you traverse the states, rural areas are usually more conservative, and the larger cities tend to trend more liberal.  The change from urban to rural can be stark and often occurs quite quickly.  Many living in the rural areas of Illinois, Virginia or New York may not feel they have much in common with their counterparts living in the DC suburbs, Chicago or New York City.

 “Transplants”, people who move from places like NYC to more conservative states, like North Carolina (and others), make those places a melting pot of cultures and ideologies within their own right.  One place we visited several years ago was the small town of Willits, in northern California.  It was one of the first places we’d visited in the state, and I was surprised how charming and “Midwestern” it felt.  

Let’s embrace our similarities!

What am I trying to get at here?  The bottom line is, none of that sh*t really matters.  I think we often forget that we’re all in this together.  We all vary, but we all share similarities as well.  Often times, those similarities aren’t categorized by skin color, religion, politics, etc.  Regardless of where we live, what church–or synagogue, or mosque, or temple–we attend (or don’t); who we vote for, or who our favorite sports team is, we’re all human.

We all live in the same, magnificent country.  I firmly believe, we’re all, for the most part, good people (one generalization we all share).  As our country remains divided on numerous issues politically, religiously, racially, culturally, I think it’s important to keep this fact in mind.   THIS is what makes road trips so enjoyable!  I LOVE traveling the country, and experiencing how much we all have in common!

The late chef and world-traveler, Anthony Bordain, felt food bonded us, that our connection with it could bridge divides between cultures, religions, politics, etc.  I think we need to seek out other “bridges” like this, as well.   Whether that be a common love (or hatred? 😳) for a specific sports team, a love of the outdoors, whatever.  I don’t care who you voted for in the last election (or if you voted at all); if you cheer for the Yankees or Red Sox; if you say “pop” or “soda”.  

I. DON’T. CARE.  

Those things aren’t important in the long run.  What is important, and what we need to focus on, are the commonalities we all share.  We need to seek out the things that unite us, not those that divide us.  We need to realize how blessed we ALL are to live in this incredible, messy, complicated place.  

We’re all stuck on this big, beautiful, blue ball, hurtling through the dark, cold, emptiness of space.  We’re all in this together, so let’s make the most of it, be kind and try to get along, yeah?  🤠  


See below for some more pics from our cross-country adventure! (Thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker for some of these):

A drawbridge is raised on a road bridge in the background. The blue water in a bay flows in the foreground and under the bridge.
Drawbridge!
A white bird with black feathers sweeping from its head pecks at the sand on a beach.
Is it just me…
A white bird with black feathers sweeping from its head stands on a beach.
A white bird with black feathers sweeping from its head pecks at the sand on a beach. …or does this bird look like Bernie Sanders?  😳
A large tree (with moss clinging to it) hangs over an old rest stop building
I love the moss!
A road sign is lit by lights at night and reads, "Welcome to Mississippi, birthplace of America's music"
State #48 for the Trekkers!
A radial elevation dial held in a person's hand over water--where a foot sits in the water--reads "0 feet" (sea level)
The lowest altitude we reached on the trip. You can see my foot is in the Gulf of Mexico if you look in the lower left corner…
A radial elevation dial sits on a car consul and reads, "12,100 feet"
…contrast that with the highest altitude we reached on our road trip the previous summer, at the top of Independence Pass, in Colorado!
Multi-colored (mostly white) shells sit on the sand as a wave comes into shore
Seashells!
Two peoples bare feet stand in water to their ankles
“I got my toes in the water…”

 

Florida Beaches:

A beach in the foreground with minimal waves and the blue ocean expanding to the horizon, all under a blue sky with white, wispy clouds
A beach in the foreground with minimal, white-capped waves and the blue ocean expanding to the horizon, all under a blue sky with white, wispy clouds. Some green trees are in the far, side-background along the beach.A white beach with tall grass in the foreground, multi-story beach homes are in the background. Dark, minimal waves wash up on a dark beach as the ocean stretches to the horizon. The sun sets into the clouds causing yellow and pink colors in the clouds. Several birds are on the beachSmall gray, ocean waves wash up on the beach. Multi-story buildings stand along the beach in the far background

The shadows of two people stretch across the beach. Multi-story buildings stand along the beach in the far background
Beach Trekkers!

Rear view of a woman walking along the beach, with minimal waves washing on shore. Numerous people stand in the background with multi-story buildings standing along the beach in the far background

Goodnight Florida!

An orange and blue sunset shines in the cloudy sky over a beachDry beach grass in the foreground, a white-sand beach stretches to the horizon dotted with people and a lifeguard stand. The sky is gray-cloudy with peaks of yellow, orange and pink sunset barely shining through. Dry beach grass in the foreground, a white-sand beach stretches to the horizon dotted with people and a lifeguard stand. The sky is gray-cloudy with peaks of yellow, orange and pink sunset barely shining through. The reddish-orange setting sun is peaking through the clouds.Green beach grass in the foreground. The sky is gray-cloudy with peaks of yellow, orange and pink sunset barely shining through. The reddish-orange setting sun is peaking through the clouds in the far background.Dark beach grass in the foreground. The sky is light blue with gray-cloud wisps. The reddish-orange setting sun is peaking through the clouds.Green, palm trees with gray-pink clouds in the blue sky overhead

What have you learned from traveling around the country (or world)?  Let me know in the comments!

 

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Three pictures: 1) A blue and white road sign reads, "Historic Byway, Missouri US 66"; 2)3) A beach in the foreground with minimal, white-capped waves and the blue ocean expanding to the horizon, all under a blue sky with white, wispy clouds. Pin reads, "What I learned on a Southeastern US Road Trip"

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Car Altimeter and Sun Shower Review

In this post, I review one of my favorite gear items (a car altimeter), as well as a piece of gear no long-term camping trip should be without (a sun shower!)

 

The car altimeter and sun shower are two items the Trekkers use fairly regularly when car camping/traveling.  Neither are must-haves, per se, but they make the trip more comfortable and more fun!

What is a Sun Shower?

A sun shower is simply a reusable, robust, vinyl bag and tube, with a spout and black backing, that you fill with water and leave out in the sun–it looks like a giant water bladder.  When you return to camp after a day on the trail, you have warm water and a spigot you can wash with.  The device is gravity-powered, so you’ll need to keep this in mind when you’re picking a spot to hang it.  

There are various brands and versions of this apparatus, this specific one holds four gallons of water.  We’ve found this system works well even to just rinse off, or to have hanging around camp to use to help keep hands and feet clean. (We have found this setup also works well to make sure your fire is out at the end of the evening as you can direct the water more easily than using a bucket).

What is a car altimeter?

The car altimeter indicates the elevation you’re currently residing at.  This may not be a necessary piece of gear for the average hiker, but it’s fun on a road trip to see just how high (or low) of an altitude you’ve achieved.  It’s also one of my favorite gear items, even though it isn’t, usually, essential to regular hikers (those venturing to the truly high altitudes–10,000+ feet–may find it more useful.)

The device responds to changes in barometric pressure caused by weather, as well, so you may have to recalibrate it a little, each day, to maintain the most accurate readings.  

Other versions of this instrument are digital, but I like the classic feel of the dial.  For amateur interest, this is a fun, portable, way to keep track of elevation changes.  It also mounts to the vehicle using velcro, so it can be easily removed and taken on a hike if you’re so inclined. 

Below is a close-up picture of the altimeter:

A small dial showing various elevations sits on a table

So, if you’re wanting to maintain a higher level of hygiene on your next camping trip, or you want to know exactly why you’re breathing a little harder on the mountain top you’re currently standing on 😳, check into these devices!

Have you used either of these products?  What were your experiences?  Tell me about them in the comments!

 

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A plastic container and tub labled, "Sun Shower" and a small dial sit on the floor. Pin reads, Car Altimeter and Sun Shower 2 Reviews of some of my favorite gear items!"

 

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Spokane, South Dakota (ghost town)

I discuss our discovery of the ghost town of Spokane, SD near Custer State Park.

There is a really cool, hidden site in the central Black Hills, the ghost town of Spokane, South Dakota!  I was surprised how long we lived in the Black Hills before we heard about this location! 😳 (This is likely due to it not being well-publicized, even though it’s very near a major tourist attraction in the local area…)

The site was pretty amazing (it didn’t hurt that the day we visited was GORGEOUS!)  I’d encourage you to research the town’s history as it’s pretty interesting.  Spokane was an actual town at one point (rather than just a simple mining camp) complete with a schoolhouse and a general store.

While the majority of the buildings have been destroyed by fire and Mother Nature, we think we found the foundation of the old schoolhouse.  The only structures still completely standing were a house with some outlying buildings.  There is also a root cellar in the main valley and the mine manager’s home still sits on a hill, overlooking the former town that was nestled in the meadow below (or it would overlook the town if there weren’t trees in the way, now. 😉) 

An old house in the woods, surrounded by pine trees
The mine manager’s house

Hazards in a Ghost Town

There are always numerous hazards to be VERY cautious of at these sites. Among a few other foundations, metal remnants, and ancient mining equipment, there was also an old well that had been sealed with a cement cover, but this has since been dislodged.  While you could see the bottom, a fall of 20 – 50 feet could be deadly, and either way, the rescue operation would be difficult for all involved. (This is another time it’s important to remember you can NOT rely on cell service when in the mountains).  

*Let’s talk safety for a bit, shall we?  When you visit ruins of old towns, mines, natural caves, etc. safety should be your #1 priority (respect for the site should be a VERY close #2).  These buildings can be dangerous. The wood is rotting, most are in the process of falling down.  Many have basements/root cellars (that you may not even be aware of).  If you fall through the wood into these, you could be seriously injured.  

Many of these buildings are also havens for rattlesnakes and other critters who may not appreciate you barging in (a mountain lion could be using a cool, abandoned root cellar as a place to nap.)  

Old mines can collapse or cave-ins–even in natural caves–can occur at any time and with little to no warning.  I cringe whenever I see pictures of people venturing into abandoned mines. 🤦‍♀️  So, adventure at your own risk, but, the Trekkers NEVER encourage people to actually venture into any of these structures. They can be enjoyed perfectly well and safely from outside.  (You should be watchful even in the outside areas around these old sites.  You never know when old holes, sharp metal pieces, or even disgruntled snakes may be camouflaged by the tall grass that often surround the structures.)

A hole a foot or more deep sits in the ground, lined with thin, regular rocks placed on top of each other. The hole is overgrown with grass and weeds on the bottom and the sides.
This hole in the ground appeared to be constructed, not sure if it was an old well, or what.  This is what I’m talking about with safety, though.  This hole was in the middle of what used to be the yard, without a cover or barrier around it.

Unique sites in Spokane, South Dakota

One unique aspect of this ghost town (at least compared to others the Trekkers have visited) is the presence of old cars!  Most of the towns we’ve toured had heydays in the late 1800s when horse and cart were the primary source of travel.  This town hit it’s prime in the 1920s (and wasn’t abandoned until the 1940s) so the unusual site of motor vehicles and evidence of electrical wiring on the buildings felt out of place.

The cab of a rusted, old truck with no windows sits on the ground, in a meadow, surrounded by trees.
I LOVE this old truck!

A rusted, old car with no windows or tires, and the hood and trunk stuck open sits in some overgrown grass on the outskirts of the woods.

Two rusted cars with no tires or windows with graffiti on them sit in an open spot in the woods.

Where is the Spokane ghost town?

In order to help preserve the integrity of the site, I’m not going to give the exact directions to this location–other than what is already available with a simple Google search.  I will give a few hints though:

      • It’s near Custer State Park (VERY, near).  You can reach the site using Playhouse Road and/or Iron Mountain Road.
      • There are two entrances to the site.  The main entrance, described in Google, requires a half-mile (or so) walk up a steep, rocky, abandoned forest road to reach the valley.  We–somewhat accidentally–stumbled on the back entrance with an easy walk of only about 1/8th of a mile to reach the meadow.
      • The rest of the discovery is up to you (as I said, Google is your friend!)Author’s Note:  In recent years the site has become more popular. Unfortunately, that means it’s also been vandalized–it’s too bad there are a few jerks out there who insist on ruining the fun for everyone–Some barriers have been erected in recent years to help keep people away from the buildings to hopefully help mitigate the damage. If you want clearer instructions on how to reach the site, you may contact me via social media as indicated below, or by using my contact form, and I may be able to help you a little more. (I won’t give precise instructions–that ruins the fun!–but I can give a few more helpful hints. 😇) 

The mood this site created was pretty cool.  The sun-dappled trees and forest floor make shadows flit on the ruins.  You can almost smell the musky scent of horse, and hear the horses, wagons–and cars?! 😳–that trundled down the rutted, dirt road, as the wind rattles the dry leaves of the aspen trees that border the ramshackle houses.  

While visiting the ghost town, why not check out Iron Mountain Road found nearby, as well?

This location would also make for a creepy adventure during the Halloween season! 👻  The site was pretty haunting, between the dilapidated old cars and buildings, you got a sense that this is what a post-apocalyptic society would look like (I may have been watching too much Walking Dead lately.) 😜

Below are some more pics of our adventure (thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker for many of these)!

An old, two-story home that is broken-down to the frame sits amongst some trees in a meadow.
To be clear, the house is leaning, not the photographer!  😉

Inside the room of an old house. No doors or windows are left and the frame is visible on the floor/walls/ceiling
Inside the room of an old house. No doors or windows are left and the frame is visible on the floor/walls/ceiling. The floor is messy, covered in plaster and the ceiling sags.
Inside the room of an old house. No doors or windows are left and the frame is visible on the floor/walls/ceiling. The floor is messy, covered in plaster and the ceiling sags.

An old, metal container, open in the middle with an agitator sticking out of the open portion
Dishwasher or a washing machine?

Old metal barn missing windows and doors sits in a grassy meadowOld shed missing windows and doors sits in a grassy meadow

Old wood pallets lay in overgrown grass amongst the trees

Looking through the doorway from the porch, into an old house. No doors are left and the frame is visible on the floor/walls/ceiling. Stairs lead to the second floor and an old stove is in the kitchen in a room far in back
I’m loving the old stove!  (FYI, those are YEARS of pine cones, left by squirrels, layering the floor in front of it!) 😳

An old, cement foundation now filled with grass, trees and trash

 

Have you ever visited this unique place?  Tell me about it in the comments!

 

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Three pictures: 1) Looking through the doorway from the porch, into an old house. No doors are left and the frame is visible on the floor/walls/ceiling. Stairs lead to the second floor and an old stove is in the kitchen in a room far in back; 2) The cab of a rusted, old truck with no windows sits on the ground, in a meadow, surrounded by trees; 3) dirt lane traverses a meadow surrounded by trees. Pin reads "The Ghost Town of Spokane South Dakota"

 

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Corn Palace in Mitchell, South Dakota

In this post, I review a trip we took to the Corn Palace in Mitchell, South Dakota.

 

On a quick trip to the east side of our large state, to enjoy a Metallica concert (the pyrotechnics weren’t tranquil but they were VERY cool!*) we were able to knock another item off my South Dakota bucket list.  We visited the Corn Palace in Mitchell, South Dakota!  I have to say, while I was expecting something a bit campy and hickish, it was actually pretty cool. 😁

*A note on heavy metal concerts, they wouldn’t appear to be “tranquil” at first glance.  However, I find them to be almost meditative…in a sense… 

As long as you aren’t being jostled too much by the screaming throngs 😳, the blaring music envelops you and blocks out your other senses.  If you close your eyes and let the music take you, it’s almost like being underwater.  I find the sensation of sensory deprivation to be calming.  It’s like you’re floating, in a sea of sound, gently drifting on the sonic waves. 🎶        

Is the Corn Palace really made of corn?

The Corn Palace was originally constructed in the 1890s to help draw people to the tiny town of Mitchell, South Dakota.  It was built in response to other, similar sites that were cropping up (no pun intended) around the Midwest.  It has showcased stars ranging from Arlo Guthrie to Brittany Spears!  

To clear up any confusion, it’s not actually constructed entirely of corn.  Apparently, the original palace was fabricated with more corn but was also a haven to rats and not very warm during the–many–cold months on the northern prairie.  

The Corn Palace has been rebuilt several times, but, it’s a typical steel and wood building with walls that are covered in variously-colored corn cobs and husks on the outside in designs that change each year (for 2018 the walls celebrated South Dakota weather, much to the delight of the meteorologist, Mr. Trekker!)

A building with a mural or a tornado running across a field towards a barn and the words, "USS South Dakota 2018" on it.
I thought this depiction of a tornado was so cool! (You can see that they’re in the process of transitioning the mural into the next year’s design.)    

What is the Corn Palace like on the inside?

When you first enter it, it looks like the lobby of your typical high school (or small, college) gym.  That then opens into a larger gymnasium/auditorium area where some local college/high school teams play.  

The scene took me back to my country roots.  The gymnasium reminded me of the one I spent many a Friday night in during my high school years back in Indiana (basketball is big there too, in case you were wondering. 😉)

I was impressed by the wide variety of themes that have been showcased on the walls of the palace throughout the years, relating to natural phenomena, worldwide events (such as the World Wars) as well as the culture and activities familiar to the Northern Plains.  

I was also intrigued by the effort required to design and construct the various murals that cover the walls every year. (I can also recommend the YUMMY popcorn sold at the concession stand! 🤤 )

A building that looks like a palace with corn cobs coming off the top of the towers and signs that say, "South Dakota Weather", "USS South Dakota 1942" and "World's Only Corn Palace.

For more information on the Corn Palace, please visit the attraction’s website here.  If you’re ever near Mitchell, South Dakota (it’s right off I-90), I’d encourage you to stop in and check out this relic of the past.  I think you’ll be glad you did!

Have you ever visited the Corn Palace?  Tell me about your experience in the comments! 

 

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A building that looks like a palace with corn cobs coming off the top of the towers and signs that say, "South Dakota Weather", "USS South Dakota 1942" and "World's Only Corn Palace. Pin reads, "Visit the Corn Palace in Mitchell, South Dakota."

 

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Guide to Colorado Backroads and 4WD Trails: A Book Review

In this post, I review a collection of guidebooks the Trekkers have found helpful regarding 4×4 roads and trails in Colorado.

 

The Guide to Colorado Backroads and 4-Wheel-Drive Trails may have a long name, but these are some of the best guidebooks we’ve used for offroading, in general. (To be fair, I don’t have much experience with books that, specifically, discuss 4WD trails).  In this post, I mentioned that we used these books quite a bit during our Colorado road trip this summer. 

What makes the books so great?

The book series is composed of two volumes that encompass the central and southern regions, and the northern region of the state and divide the roads and trails into classifications of “easy”, “moderate” and “difficult”.  They give incredibly detailed descriptions of the routes (down to the tenth of a mile) and also discuss rules regarding permits needed, unlicensed off-road vehicles, etc.  

It should be noted that the books assume that a 4WD vehicle will be used when attempting these roads/trails,  So, classifications of “easy” should be understood within that context.  We found some (though not all) of the “easy” roads should be approached with care in a passenger vehicle (even higher-clearance vehicles such as my CRV).  It should also be noted that even the easiest trail can quickly become difficult if weather conditions deteriorate.   

The books tell you what you will encounter on the route

The books’ excerpts describe the types of vehicles that each route can accommodate–a full-sized truck or jeep versus an ATV with a shorter wheelbase, whether or not modifications (such as skid plates, rock sliders, winches, etc.) are advisable.  These excerpts also do a good job of differentiating between paved and gravel roads (information we found to be lacking in the Gazetteer), the usual condition of the routes, as well as how surface conditions can vary based on changing weather conditions. 

The books give directions on how to reach a route, bug-out options if needed (and if they’re available at all), hazards to watch out for, the best time of the year to experience the trail (as well as when they may be closed, entirely, due to weather conditions), and contact numbers to verify the most updated road conditions.  

The route’s length, the highest altitude it reaches, and activities available on or near the trail (availability of camping, hiking, rock crawling, ghost towns to explore, etc.) are also discussed.  Color-coded maps are provided in spiral-bound, durable pages that make for easy use in a vehicle (I can vouch for this as the navigator).  😉  

Related Posts:  7 “Must-See” Colorado Ghost TownsThe Best Hidden Gems of Northern ColoradoThe Backroads of ColoradoThe Drive to Crystal Mill in Colorado

According to Amazon, similar books by the same authors are available for other locales as well, including, Moab, Utah, and portions of Arizona and California.  I can’t speak for the quality of these volumes, though, if they’re anything like the ones described above (and I have no reason to believe they aren’t), they would be beneficial additions to any gear list if you’re visiting these areas.  

So, if you’re itching to get away from the crowds and explore some Colorado backroads, consider these books for your adventure!

Have you ever used either of these books?  What did you think of them?  Tell me about your experience in the comments! 

 

†As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases

 

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Hot Air Balloons at the Stratobowl!

In this post, I review a hot air balloon launch that occurs every year at the historic Stratobowl, in the Black Hills.

 

The alarm wails and wakes you from a deep slumber, it’s 4:30 am…

…you stumble out of bed and feel for your clothes through sleep-blurred eyes…the dog wonders if you’re crazy for being up before the sun…

…a short drive later and you park along the roadside in an ever-growing line of vehicles, strap a headlamp to your brow, and set off for the mile-or-so-walk to the Stratobowl as, ever so slowly, the darkness perceptibly lessens…  

The Stratobowl Historic Hot Air Balloon Launch

This is a really cool annual event that occurs one weekend each year in early September.  It is VERY weather-dependent and can be canceled due to the frequent, South Dakota wind.  On the days the flight is canceled, some of the balloons are often at least inflated and fly, tethered, several hundred feet above the ground.  

I discussed the Stratobowl in a previous post.  If, however, you’re unfamiliar with this location, the hike takes you along the Stratobowl rim with a valley that spreads far below you. (The balloons take off from the meadow in this valley.)  One of the meadow’s unique aspects is that one of the residents who lives there mows a peace sign in the same field that is the site of the launch.  It fits the tranquility of the site–and the Black Hills in general–well.  It also compliments the kaleidoscope of bright colors that adorn the balloons.

Top view of four colorful, hot air balloons floating near a grassy, valley floor surrounded by pine trees. A peace sign has been mowed into the grass. Cars and trucks also dot the valley floor.
Our view from the Stratobowl rim.  If you look closely enough, you can see the “peace sign” mowed into the grass.
View from a cliff above with rocks and gravel in the foreground. In the background, four colorful, hot air balloons floating near a grassy, valley floor surrounded by pine trees. Cars and trucks also dot the valley floor.
This gives you an idea of how far below you the valley floor is

The rainbow of colors from the balloons make for a spectacular contrast against the dark green backdrop of the Black Hills National Forest, where the aspen trees are usually just beginning to take on their autumnal, yellow hue.  As the sun rises, it slowly unfurls its light over the tree-covered Hills to the west.  The *whoosh!* of the flame-heated air rushing in to fill the balloons then reaches your ears from the basin far below.  

If you’ve never seen a hot-air balloon, a large propane tank is attached to a basket.  At regular intervals (as controlled by the pilot) the tank springs to life, spurts out a flame, and rushes hot air into the balloon. (A fan also helps with the initial inflating process.)  

Hot air rises, so, once it’s full enough, the balloon does as well–yay science! 😝  The pilots can control the altitude of the balloon using this device, allowing for a safe landing, but they can’t control where the wind blows the craft (Someone Else is still in charge of that department 😉).  A “chase vehicle” follows the balloon to collect it from whatever field it finally lands in.   

I have fond memories of hot-air balloons from my childhood in Indiana.  There were several pilots around the local area where I grew up, so these craft were a regular sight in the sky.  We also enjoyed several mass-launches at the county fair in the summer.  I have one, specific, memory of a balloon flying over my grandparents’ pool so low to the ground that we were able to talk with the pilot (he ended up landing in the field across the road).  

Embrace Life’s Simple Pleasures

This is another opportunity to enjoy the simple things in life, not to mention a micro-adventure close to home.  It is a family-friendly, free activity, less than a half-hour drive from Rapid City, which requires only the small sacrifice of missing some sleep.  But it allows us to enjoy the natural beauty that surrounds us in a unique and easy way.  

So again, strive to seek out these simple, everyday opportunities that are present in your local neighborhood (farmer’s markets, county fairs, free events downtown or in local parks, etc.)  You’ll be surprised how much fun you can have (and it’s frugal too!) 🤑

Top view of four colorful, hot air balloons floating near a grassy, valley floor surrounded by pine trees. A few tethers string down from the balloons. Cars and trucks also dot the valley floor.
You can see the tethers on the dark blue balloon, anchoring it to the ground

Have you ever watched balloons take off from the Stratobowl?  What did you think?  Tell me about your experience in the comments!

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Bighorn Medicine Wheel in Wyoming

In this post, I discuss an ancient medicine wheel in the Bighorns!

 

There is a prehistoric Medicine Wheel hidden in the northern, Bighorn mountains of eastern Wyoming.  It was built by the ancient ancestors of today’s American Indian tribes.  More than 80 tribes claim the wheel in their oral traditions so it can’t be attributed to any one group or culture, though it’s, obviously, a very sacred site.  

What does the Bighorn Medicine Wheel look like?

This is one of the largest, stone medicine wheels in North America (there are at least 150 spread throughout the continent).  It’s constructed with a center cairn with spokes emanating from it to an outer circle that connects six, smaller cairns that appear to be strategically placed.  

Archeologists aren’t sure of the wheel’s exact age, most estimates date it back at least 800 years, but it could be far older.  Archaeological evidence shows human habitation as far back as 12,000 years in this area!  

The ranger we spoke with stated the six rock cairns that dot the outer portion of the circle are believed to have a celestial purpose, but the exact function remains a mystery–it is thought that they may have been used during vision quests.  The last time the six cairns matched up with celestial markers was at least as far back as the 1700s!

Medicine Wheels are Sacred Sites

Religious ceremonies are still held at the wheel on a regular basis as many tribal members make religious pilgrimages to the site.  Some of the ceremonies involve large groups, while others include only a few individuals–two, small, private ceremonies occurred while we were there.  Anyone with American Indian heritage can participate in a ceremony.  

It’s always enthralling for me to observe religious practices that I’m not familiar with.  I’m fascinated by the emotions you see play out on the faces of the participants, and how descriptive their movements can be.  I find their actions evoke emotions within me as well.  You can actually feel the peace and tranquility emanating from them as they dance, pray, or worship in their own way.  

A tour of the wheel may be delayed if a ceremony is occurring, though they usually don’t last longer than 30 minutes, so please be patient and respectful during this time of worship.  Numerous religious offerings are tied to the fence that rings the site (or are placed within the wheel itself).  Please do not touch or photograph these items directly as they are sacred.  It is also requested that people not take photos or videos of the ceremonies, as they are occurring, to respect the privacy of the participants.  

Where is the Bighorn Medicine Wheel?

The wheel is located on Forest Road 12, off of US 14A, in the northern part of the Bighorns.  It’s about 20 miles from Burgess Junction (where 14A branches off from US 14 to the east) and about 30 miles from Lovell, Wyoming, to the west.

Related posts: Lake Helen, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming; 4 Don’t Miss Sites in the Bighorn Mountains of WyomingWest Tensleep Trail, Bighorn Mountains, WyomingCamping in the Bighorns

The parking lot is a mile-and-a-half walk from the wheel on a graded, dirt road.  The hike isn’t bad, though it is uphill both ways (seriously 😝) and the altitude is over 9,000 feet, so take your time.  The site is also above tree line so bring a hat, water, and sunscreen, and be prepared for the ever-present, Wyoming wind.  It usually takes an hour or so to complete the entire route.  The site is free to visit, though donations are appreciated.  Because this is a sacred site, pets are not permitted and must be left in the parking area.

The only thing that marred the experience was the large, FAA radar placed on the adjoining peak (because none of the numerous, other peaks in the surrounding area, that were a little farther away, wouldn’t have worked?  REALLY?!)  Federal Government, do better! 😤      

Panoramic view of a rocky mountainside. Tree-covered mountains spread in the distance under a crystal clear, blue sky
The incredible view of the Bighorns from the Medicine Wheel site (to the right is the road you hike to reach the wheel)
Small stones on the ground form the center and outer portions of a wheel with stone spokes connecting them
The Medicine Wheel (you can see one of the rock cairns in the foreground to the left)

The Backroads of Wyoming

I’ve suggested before, to always take the scenic route, when time permits.  We enjoyed a good bit of that on this trip!  We started by taking Route 24, west, from where it branches off near the Island Park campground.  We then took Forest Road 408, to BLM Road 1117, on to Hyattville.  

This route is listed in the gazetteer as being Hyattville Road, but we saw NO signs reflecting this.  Similar to what we’ve found in Colorado, even though a road may be listed as a “major connector”, especially in the gazetteer, this could easily mean the road is actually dirt (sometimes wide and graded, other times little more than a narrow, two-track, high-clearance road that I wouldn’t be comfortable taking an Outback on). 😝 

We used three separate maps–the gazetteer, a Bighorns map we picked up at a local, outdoor store, and a road atlas–to gather a–somewhat accurate–estimate of the roads’ actual conditions.  Part of the difficulty was the roads traversed National Forest and BLM land in this area, and each department names and maintains their roads differently.  

Overlooking a rocky cliff with pine trees growing up from below
A view from our backroad trip

The drive was very manageable with Mr. Trekker’s Tacoma (any high-clearance, 4WD vehicle could handle it in good conditions).  There were no steep drop-offs and no, real, technical obstacles like what we’ve encountered on some of the roads in Colorado.  It was also beautiful, ranging from alpine, spruce forests and aspen groves, to dun-colored high prairies dotted with tan and red clay mounds, adorned with the varying greens of the diverse foliage.  Rock-rimmed canyons with their gaping mouths open onto prairie grasses far below, while rocky cliffs of various colors traverse throughout, all with the imposing Bighorns as a backdrop.  

Here is a video I made that showcases the beauty that is eastern Wyoming.

After leaving the Medicine Wheel, we decided we were game to try a few more back roads.  We took another scenic trip, east, on US 14A to Burgess Junction, where we picked up US 14 and took it west.  We took that road to Route 17, another “major connector”, that we then took to Alkali Road/BLM Road 1111/Route 228, back to Hyattville (this is a back way to reach the Medicine Wheel from the south).  

Again, these road numbers and names were listed on the gazetteer and one of the maps–some of these roads didn’t even appear on the Atlas–but were NOT shown on the actual road.  We just trusted the signs that directed us back to Hyattville.  You always need to be flexible when taking back roads, as you never know what kind of obstacles or conditions may cross your path.  I should also note, there was NO cell coverage in this remote location (and GPS can often be inaccurate), so maps are often times your only option–time to go “old school” folks!  

Another road we could have driven was labeled in the Gazetteer as the “Red Gulch, Alkali National Back Country Byway”.  We didn’t actually drive it this time–though we returned at a later date to check out the fossilized dinosaur footprints it leads to! 😯  

The Back Country Byway is more of a two-track, high-clearance path, at least in spots.  I certainly wouldn’t call it a “main road”.  Funnily enough, the roads we took back to Hyattville ended up being in better shape than the back road we brought out from the campground.  They were graded, gravel roads that one could expect to travel 30 – 40 mph on (if the rancher in front of us hadn’t decided a slower speed was better.  Unfortunately, on those roads, that are only about 1.5 lanes wide, passing really isn’t an option unless the person in front of you is feeling charitable and pulls over.  This man didn’t. 😜)  So, we enjoyed a leisurely, scenic stroll through the beautiful Wyoming countryside.  😁  

After reaching Hyattville we took Route R54 (another graded, well-maintained, gravel road) to Ten Sleep and then got to enjoy the, INCREDIBLY beautiful, US 16 east through Ten Sleep Canyon, back to our campground. (Did I mention, almost all of these roads, despite their varying conditions–with the exception of the highways–had the EXACT SAME indicators on the map? 😜)

Peering through the trees across tree-covered mountains out to the dry, high prairie far in the distance

The topography of Wyoming is very unique.  It’s characterized by the towering Bighorns in the northeast, to the Grand Tetons that criss-cross Yellowstone and the Rockies, in the west.  A drier, large, bluff-filled basin sits between Yellowstone and the Bighorns.  

Some parts of the state are prettier than others–while the dry, scrubland that surrounds the mountains can be pretty and green in spring, it usually turns rather drab in the later months.  The basin area is dotted with oil fields and sketchy-looking, government sites with warning signs plastered on the fences, which can be rather intimidating. 😳

Below are some more pics of our scenic drive:

Dry, green meadow with trees and rocky mountains far in the background, under a clear, blue skyWhite, rocky cliffs rise high aboveA dry, scrubland canyon with a dry, high plain in the far distanceDry, grassy meadow with dry, high plains and bluffs in the distanceDry, grassy meadow with dry, high plains and red-rock bluffs in the distanceDry, grassy meadow with tree-covered, white cliffs and dry, high plains and mountains in the backgroundDry, grassy high plains with pine-covered mountains in the background

MOOSE in the Bighorn Mountains!

Earlier that summer, we spent ten days in the Colorado high country during peak season and we didn’t see one moose.  Later that fall, we spent ten seconds in the Bighorn mountains of Wyoming (literally), and TWO moose were waiting to greet us when we arrived at our campsite!  Bighorns for the win!   

Two moose in a field as seen through the trees
Our ungulate friends (this year it was Maggie and Megan)

As I’ve mentioned previously, I’m always surprised at how much this part of Wyoming reminds me of the Colorado mountains.  The scenery and critters are very similar, with the added benefit of being half as long a distance from the Black Hills and FAR less crowded than Colorado. 😉  

If you’re looking for an amazing, historical site to visit in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming, check out the Bighorn Medicine Wheel!

Have you ever visited the prehistoric Medicine Wheel in the Bighorns?  Tell me about it in the comments! 

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Small stones on the ground form the center and outer portions of a wheel with stone spokes connecting them. Pin reads, "A Prehistoric Medicine Wheel in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming"

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Chapel in the Hills, Rapid City

In this post, I review the Chapel in the Hills, located in Rapid City.

 

Unlike most of the places I write about, Chapel in the Hills is unique because it is hidden within the limits of Rapid City.  This makes it easy to access, even if it is a bit difficult to locate. 😁   As you pull into the parking lot, the Chapel commands your view as it appears, positioned against the hill, dominating over the surrounding landscape.  

A wooden church stands amongst trees on a green lawn

Where in Rapid City is the Chapel in the Hills?

To reach the Chapel in the Hills, take Route 44/Jackson Boulevard west, out of Rapid City, and then take the first left, past Canyon Lake Park, for Chapel Lane.  Stay on Chapel Lane until you reach the gate. There are a few jogs in the route and several roads branch off, so be watchful (there are signs, though a few are small).   The chapel is located about 1.5 miles from Canyon Lake Park.  

As an aside, if you’ve never visited Canyon Lake Park, I recommend it.  It’s a perfect place for a picnic, to walk your dog, or take a jog, and at night, the path is illuminated with lovely, subdued lighting.  Just be wary of the MANY geese and their “leavings”, especially on the island in the middle of the lake. 😝 

The drive to the chapel traverses a lovely, tree-lined, residential area complete with the 1960s architectural style that is common to the west side of Rapid City.  I’m regularly, pleasantly surprised by the picturesque, residential areas around town; not to mention the spectacular views of the surrounding countryside that they bestow–in this case, views of the Black Hills.  

The roof of a wooden church with unique wooden sculptures and steeple on the top

The roof of a wooden church with multiple wooden crosses coming off the top

What makes the Chapel in the Hills unique?

The campus is cool!  The chapel, an ELCA Lutheran church, is modeled after a Norwegian stave church (the Borgund stavkirke, of Laerdal, Norway, to be exact, that was built in the 12th Century), in honor of the Norwegian Lutherans that settled the area.  There is also a small visitor’s center that dons a traditional, grass roof that was built in Norway and shipped to Rapid City.  The site also sports a small museum showcasing what life would have been like for the church’s parishioners at the time it was built.

Wooden building with grass on the roof and a flag coming out the top, surrounded by woodland
The traditional grass roof of the Visitor Center

Weddings are held here and evening vespers occur, nightly, during the summer months.  You can visit the website here.  There is no cost to tour the site, though donations are appreciated.

The architecture of this building is incredible!  Intricate wood carvings adorn the walls of the church, both outside and in, and the russet-colored wood contrasts with the vibrant green of the surrounding lawns, the azure blue of the sky, and the sun-dappled trees of the forest backdrop.  Flowers of various types colorfully frame the chapel and dot the beds that encircle it while butterflies flit about and bees sip the nectar from the Russian sage flowers.  The musty aroma of old wood tickles your nose, while bird chatter surrounds you; the gentle breeze sighs through the boughs of the trees and dry leaves crackle as they are swept past.

Wooden entrance to a church with an ornate border
The front entrance to the Chapel
View from below, open wooden rafters of a church
The ceiling of the Chapel

A short, peaceful, meditation/prayer path, complete with small, marble statues, traverses a ravine where towering slopes frame three of its sides in the forest behind the structure.  I LOVE this place!  It is so beautiful and peaceful!  It makes for a perfect location to meditate, pray, or just relax.  For someone who is spiritual but also delights in nature, it makes for the perfect fusion between the two.  It’s an incredibly tranquil, mystical experience.  Here, my soul is at peace!    

A dirt path through the woods with a stone bench and religious statue along the side
The prayer/meditation path

 

More pics of the Chapel in the Hills are below:

A wooden church sits on a concrete patio surrounded by pine trees, all under a clear, blue sky

A wooden, church door with ornate, wrought iron knockers
The Chapel’s commanding front door
Ornate wooden carving
Intricate carvings on one of the Chapel’s pillars
Stone altar of a church with a wooden backdrop
The Chapel altar
Rear view of two people, a man and a woman, sitting on wooden benches looking around the interior of a wooden church.
My parents, appreciating the interior of the Chapel
A wooden, bell tower sits on a dirt path in the woods
A bell tower

If you’re looking for a unique, family activity, close to Rapid City, check this location out, I know I’ll be returning!

Have you ever visited the Chapel in the Hills?  What did you think?  Tell me about it in the comments! 

 

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7 “Must-See” Colorado Ghost Towns

I review several ghost towns we toured around the Colorado High Country as well as our drive up Independence Pass.

 

The Trekkers LOVE visiting ghost towns! We try to include them whenever possible on our trips.  During our 2018 road trip, we got to check out several awesome ghost towns in Colorado.  

Ghost towns give you a true, visual understanding of how people lived “back in the day”.  I’m a very visual person so this helps me fully appreciate what the lives of the inhabitants of these towns must have been like.  I prefer the towns that are restored, with at least several buildings remaining that you can view.  Sometimes, however, the places that are comprised mostly of ruins allow you to use your own imagination of how they must have appeared in their heyday.

Click here for a list of ALL the ghost towns the Trekker’s have visited around the country!

Below is a list of seven ghost towns we visited in central and western Colorado…

Teller City Ghost Town: 

This was the first ghost town we visited and the one that required the most effort to access.  The townsite is near State Forest State Park, in far northern Colorado, around nine miles south of Gould, on Route 740 (Baker Pass Road).  You reach it by driving on a, somewhat rough, 4WD shelf road. (The Guide to Colorado Backroads† book that I mentioned in a previous post, rates this road as “easy”.  I would rate it as “moderate”.  A high clearance, 4WD vehicle should be all you’d need to access this site in good conditions).  

We didn’t actually complete the 4×4 road all the way to Baker Pass, though we spoke with a local who said it was worth the drive.  Alas, daylight was waning (and the mosquitoes were starting to bite!) 😝

 The way was fairly well-marked and obvious, but be watchful.  The road branched off several times and the correct route was only marked with orange, snowmobile trail markers (this is a snowmachine trail in the winter months).  

An old cabin sits amongst small trees in a grassy, open space. Tree-covered mountains are in the background.

An old, abandoned cabin without windows or a door

One plus with this site is that there’s a designated parking area and then you hike a Nature Trail loop to view the remains of the town.  Not much is left, but you could almost hear the voices of the patrons visiting the busy shops, and smell the dust kicked up by the wagons as they rolled along–what used to be–a bustling Main Street.  

At various places along the trail, markers describe the history of that home or business.  At one of the stops, the words of a young girl who came into town one winter night, via the pass, were noted.  Her description of the twinkling town lights flickering through the evening shadows was incredible.  

Below are a few more pics of the ruins at Teller City (as usual, thanks to Mr. Trekker for several of these):

The ruins of an old cabin sits amongst small trees in an open space. Tree-covered mountains are in the background.
The ruined walls of an old cabin sit in an open space. No roof or door remains. Tree-covered mountains are in the background.
The ruined walls of an old cabin sit in an open space. No roof or door remains. Tree-covered mountains are in the background.

A large, dark hole in the ground is circled by rocks and covered by a wrought-iron cage
An old well pit

Coalmont, Colorado: 

After leaving State Forest State Park, we visited Coalmont on our way to the Flattop Wilderness area.  Only the schoolhouse remains of this dusty hamlet, but from what we could see through the grime-spattered window, it appears to have been restored inside.  It would have been neat to be able to view it in more detail! 

The townsite is located off of Route 14, southwest of Walden, Colorado and can be reached via either Route 24 or Route 26 (they form a half-moon-shaped loop here).  The site is directly off of Route 26.

Old, white-boarded schoolhouse building sits in an arid landscape. Dark mountains are seen far in the background

Remains of an old ranch at Grand Mesa National Forest:

This site is located on top of the mesa, off the Land’s End Road.  It is the remains of a ranch that operated in this area long ago. Several cabins, one of which you can walk inside, and an old livestock corral, have been restored.  They can be viewed on a Nature Trail loop (it is part of a cross-country ski trail in the snowy months).  

A two-story cabin sits amongst tall, green grasses. It is a grey, cloudy day

An old, wooden fence-surround sits in a grassy, open space just outside a deep woods surrounded by tall pine trees
The old corral

Yellow wildflowers in a tall, grassy meadow. An old cabin can be seen down the hill

Pitkin Ghost Town: 

This “living” ghost town is located about 27 miles east of Gunnison Colorado.  Take US 50, east, from Gunnison, then turn left onto Route 76 in Parlin.  

As an aside, we enjoyed several good meals in Gunnison.  We had a wonderful breakfast at the W. Café, and, I can attest that the High Alpine Brewing Company makes great pizza!

Old, freshly-painted, one-story building sits on a plot in town. A statue of a prospector sits out front. The sign over the door reads, "Pitkin Assay Office"

Letters read "Pitkin Hotel" on the glass front of the building. Modern-day trucks sit on the street out front

At about the halfway point on Route 76, you will pass the “living” ghost town of Ohio City. (I call them “living” because some hearty souls are still living in both of these locations!) 

The rain was falling fairly heavily as we passed through Ohio City, so we chose not to stop, but Pitkin should definitely be on your list of places to visit!  It was one of the more “real-feel” ghost towns we toured as it wasn’t crowded with visitors, and enough of the old buildings have been restored that you felt as though you were actually walking down the town’s Main Street.  

The Silver Plume General Store, located on the east side of town at the corner of 9th and State Streets, is a great place to stop for lunch.  We certainly enjoyed our burgers from the outdoor grille! Note: Pitkin is the last chance at civilization if you’re venturing onward to Tincup, Cottonwood Pass, the Alpine Tunnel, or St. Elmo ghost town via Tincup Pass.

We didn’t make it to Tincup on this trip, being that Cottonwood Pass was closed for paving.  We are hoping to, one day, try the Tincup Pass between Tincup and St. Elmo and hike to the Alpine Tunnel.  Another journey for another time, I don’t worry that we’ll be back in Colorado soon!  😁

A two-story building with a belfry on top sits in front of a tree-covered hill. The sign under the belfry reads, "City Hall 1900"
Two old, single-story buildings with false fronts. One reads, "Pitkin Bank". A modern car sits in an alley nearby.
Two old, very small cabins sit so close they appear to connect. One sign reads, "Road Kill Cafe", the other "Stage Stop, Pitkin 1880"
An old, white-clapboard church and steeple

Below is a short video I took of the hummingbirds near the Pitkin Hotel.  I’ve always liked hummingbirds, but I’ve never heard them make this noise outside of Colorado…

St. Elmo Ghost Town: 

Everyone we talked to (and all the guide books we read) told us we HAD to visit St. Elmo, and it was, definitely, worth the visit!

The only disappointment I had with this site is that vehicles are allowed to park in the town itself.  Its spirit seems to be somewhat ruined when there’s a modern Audi parked in front of Town Hall. 😝  Also, they were restoring several buildings while we were there—which I’m sure is necessary and will be wonderful when it’s completed—but it meant that construction equipment was parked along Main Street.  *sigh*  Guess we’ll have to visit another time! 😉 

Two old, single-story buildings that look like they were once shops. One appears weathered, the other freshly-painted. A very tall, rocky mountain can be seen in the background

Two old, small, weathered cabins sit next to the dirt road

As I mentioned previously, if you’re daring, you can reach St. Elmo via Tincup Pass.  If you’re looking for a tamer route, you can do what we did and take the long way.  For this trek take Route 50 east of Gunnison through Monarch Pass (another great view) and turn north onto US 285 at Poncha Springs.  Then take Route 162 west–an out-and-back road (for the less daring among us)–toward the Mt. Princeton Hot Springs resort and on to St. Elmo.  

Near this area, there’s also a turnoff for Hagerman Pass Road to the site of another ghost town, Hancock.  From there, you can hike to the Alpine Tunnel from the east, though it sounded as though the hike is longer and the view isn’t quite as good as hiking from the west side–we chose not to complete the hike at this time due to time constraints and the monsoon-fueled thunderheads that were threatening.  

As I stated previously, since we missed a few ghostly spots this time around, we’ll be putting this area on our “must-visit” list for the future.  It’s always a shame when you visit a location and find out you HAVE to come back to explore further (that happens to us regularly on trips, especially in Colorado…have I mentioned that I enjoy vacationing in this state? 😉)

An old, wooden cabin with two chimneys. Two very tall mountains, one rocky, the other tree-covered, can be seen in the backdrop
Two old, wooden cabins sit amongst the trees
An old, one-story shop that reads, "Miners Exchange, St. Elmo General Store"

Much to the Tranquil Trekker’s dismay (we DON’T feed wildlife) one unique feature of St. Elmo is that visitors are encouraged to feed the WAY-overly-friendly and almost-aggressive local chipmunks. You can buy food for them at the General Store. 😝

The Cascades Waterfall near Buena Vista, Colorado:

After leaving Saint Elmo, on our way east, back to US 285, we stopped at The Cascades.  This is a lovely waterfall that’s just off the side of the road.  It’s a beautiful, peaceful location where you can walk right up to the base of the river that creates a picturesque waterfall in this area as it cascades across boulders–hence the name. 😉  

A creek runs over rocks and down a hill, creating a waterfall amongst the mountains and trees
Water from the creek dribbles over large boulders
A creek runs over rocks, creating a mini waterfall amongst the boulders and trees
A creek runs over rocks and down a hill, creating a waterfall amongst the mountains and trees

Gothic Ghost Town, Crested Butte, Colorado: 

I was a bit disappointed by this town.  The Rocky Mountain Biological Laboratory bought the town and did an exceptional job of restoring many of the old buildings which the lab uses for its work.  This we knew going in… what I hadn’t realized is that the lab has taken over almost the entirety of the townsite.  As it’s now, mostly, all private property, it’s almost impossible to tour around and browse the various buildings. 😒

I’m glad the town is being used for something, and I’m thankful to the lab for helping to save its structures, I just wish the historical features were easier to access.  And a note to the general store in town:  you close by four? In the middle of summer?? On a Saturday???  REALLY?!  Afternoons are a good time for people to eat ice cream you know!  😝😳😉

Sign at the edge of town reads, "GOTHIC site of The Rocky Mountain Biological Laboratory founded 1928"

No trespassing/no pets signs on a wooden fence. Old cabins sit in an open field within the fence. Rocky mountains are in the far background
Signs regarding the lab dotted the entire town 😕

You can reach Gothic by taking Gothic Road, Route 317, north of Crested Butte and the ski village.  You can’t miss it, this is, literally, the only main road going north of town! 😉  This will also lead you to Schofield Pass that I discussed in this post.  

Old cabins sit in front of a rocky mountain. Modern day cars and a construction cone are parked on the dirt street
Old cabins sit in a grassy field in front of a rocky mountain

Modern cars line both sides of the dirt street. Old cabins sit in front of a rocky mountain far in the background
Main Street in Gothic

Old cabins sit in an open field within a wooden fence. Tree-covered mountains are in the background

Old, brown, two-story building. Sign on front reads, "1880 Town Hall"
The General Store with its questionable hours of operation 😝

Old cabins sit amongst short trees with the forest in the background

Independence Ghost Town and Independence Pass:

Independence ghost town is located on Independence Pass (Route 82), around 16 miles east of Aspen, and around 21 miles west of Twin Lakes.  

It’s just east of the peak of the Pass itself, and is, actually, easy to miss.  It’s below the grade of the road and the two parking pullouts are small and not well-marked.  There are, blue, “Places of Interest” signs, but you have to be watching for them.  We actually saw the ruins of the mill, on the other side of the road, first.  

The townsite is located in a valley, along the Roaring Fork River, framed by the towering Sawatch Range on both sides.  

Independence Ghost Town:

This was my favorite ghost town of the entire trip!  It’s easy to access as the site is located directly on Independence Pass.  You actually park at a pullout on the Pass road and then hike out to the site, so no vehicles marred the view. 

The walk into the town site is about one-mile in each direction, on an old, two-track, dirt road. (The hike is pretty easy as there is almost no elevation gain.  Beware though, the town site still sits at about 10,000 feet in elevation.)  You can see the town from quite a ways off, which helps you to imagine what it must have felt like riding a horse or wagon along that route during the height of the town’s life.

This would have been an incredibly beautiful place to live! (Had it not been so isolated and suffered such extreme weather.)

Related Posts:  Guide to Colorado Backroads and 4-Wheel-Drive Trails: Book ReviewThe Best Hidden Gems of Northern ColoradoThe Backroads of ColoradoThe Drive to Crystal Mill in Colorado

The wooden remains of an old structure sit on a hill with a tree-covered mountain in the background
The old mill in Independence, Colorado. (This is the first building we saw to clue us in that we were “there”.)

The wooden remains of an old structure that has no roof. Trees are in the background

A two-track dirt road leads over a small, grassy hill. Old cabins in a grassy meadow can be seen far in the distance with tree-covered and rocky mountains in the background
I don’t imagine this view was much different when the town was thriving

An old cabin sits in a grassy meadow with a tree-covered mountain in the backgroundThe wooden remains of an old structure that has no roof or doors. Trees are in the backgroundThe wooden remains of an old, in-tact structure. Trees are in the backgroundA grassy meadow leads down the hill into a valley. Tree-covered and rocky mountains are in the backgroundThe remains of two old cabins sit on a grassy hill. A tree-covered mountain is in the background.

Independence Pass:

Independence Pass was incredibly beautiful, as well.  This one has been on my Colorado Bucket List for some time and it did not disappoint! (It was also the highest altitude we reached on this trip, maxing out at, just over, 12,000 feet!)  The scenic overlook and hiking area at the top of the Pass offer, almost, 360-degree views of the Continental Divide, which the Pass spans.

Looking down into a grassy, mountain valley. Rugged, rocky peaks and tree-covered mountains stretch to the horizon where they meet a blue sky filled with white, puffy clouds

Sign reads, "Independence Pass, elevation 12,095 feet, Continental Divide"

An analog device sits on a vehicle dashboard. It's dial is pointed to just over 12,000 feet
We finally topped 12,000 feet!

You may have noticed I’ve been enjoying using a Sun Company altimeter† in many of these posts.  It responds to changes in barometric pressure caused by weather as well as air pressure at-elevation, so you may have to recalibrate it a little each day to maintain the most accurate readings.  But, for amateur interest, it’s a fun, portable, way to keep track of changes in altitude–it connects to the vehicle using velcro so it can be easily removed and taken on a hike if you’re so inclined. 

A paved road winds down and around a hill. Rocky, rugged and tree-covered mountains are in the background and line both sides of the road

I made another video of our drive up Independence Pass.  I think my videographer skills got a “little” better with this one! 🤔

If you’re looking for something fun to do this summer, definitely check out the ghost towns of the Colorado High Country! 

Have you visited any of these amazing places?  Tell me about it in the comments!

 

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Four pictures of old buildings at ghost towns and Rocky Mountain passes. Pin reads, "The Ghost Towns of Colorado's High Country"

 

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The Backroads of Colorado

This post outlines our adventures on several Colorado backroads, including some at State Forest State Park and around the Crested Butte area.

 

On our 2018 road trip in the Colorado High Country, we really wanted to improve our 4×4 driving (and navigation) skills.  Fortunately, there are a number of backroads in Colorado that are perfect for this! 

One series of books we found to be incredibly helpful is A Guide to Colorado Backroads.  It’s actually a series of books covering the northern, central, and southern regions of the state.  These provide helpful information on the roads and trails including their difficulty level, equipment needed to successfully complete them, and details on each of the routes’ conditions.  

Below is a listing of the new roads we enjoyed:

Montgomery Pass Road, State Forest State Park

The first road we mastered, the Montgomery Pass Road at State Forest State Park, ended up being the most technical route we attempted on the entire trip. This out-and-back trek is listed as “moderate” in the guidebook.  It was fun, though, definitely, challenging.  A high clearance, 4WD vehicle is required and skid plates are an added benefit–we were VERY glad for them as we scraped across one particular rock.  Several spots even required me to exit the vehicle and play “spotter” for Mr. Trekker to assist him in navigating the obstacles…it was fun!  😁  The road was wide, with room to pass in most spots, and mostly traversed the forest, so, it lacked the stomach-churning shelf roads we experienced on much of the rest of the trip.  

The road ends before it reaches the top of Montgomery Pass, and the final half-mile or so must be completed on foot.  It’s an easy hike (minus the altitude) as the trail is an abandoned forest road.  It was windy at over 11,000 feet, but the incredible views of the Never Summer Mountains and the promise of the 360-degree vista at the top provide motivation despite beleaguered lungs.

Hand holding an analog dial showing a little over 11,000 feet elevation
Made it to the top of Montgomery Pass!

The wildflowers had begun to carpet the surrounding meadows while snow still blanketed portions of the nearby peaks (in early July!)   Another quality of this wilderness area is that we felt like we had the entire mountain to ourselves on a Monday morning, seeing only two other groups for the duration of the excursion.  You can also hike the entire way to the peak from the other side of the mountain.  The trailhead is found off Route 14 on the eastern edge of the park.   

A small, rock cairn in the foreground with a grassy meadow spreading out behind. A spine of grass and tree-covered mountain peaks can be seen in the distance with occasional spats of snow
The view from the summit

Bockman Road, State Forest State Park

We supplemented the adventure above with a side trip down Bockman Road which intersects the Montgomery Pass Road farther down the mountain.  This road was easy, I think my CRV may have been able to handle it if you were careful on a few of the bumpy sections.  It was dirt, but wide enough for two vehicles and mostly graded.  It made for a fun, relaxing afternoon as a bubbling creek accompanied us for much of the trip, as well as countless more wildflowers (have I mentioned the wildflowers are beautiful in Colorado this time of year?) 😉  

Gothic Road near Crested Butte

Probably the most nerve-wracking drive we completed was Gothic Road, from Gothic ghost town to Schofield Pass–I discuss Gothic in this post

The road is in good condition–a sedan could probably negotiate it.  The problem we ran into was that it is a 1 1/2-lane shelf road with a significant drop-off at one side and no barrier–a frequent condition we encountered on Colorado back roads.  

When we were there it was also INCREDIBLY busy; filled with 2-way traffic in addition to hikers and mountain bikers.  Part of the trouble was that we were there on a weekend in July (our fault, it was just the way the trip itinerary worked out).  But the horde of visitors combined with people who are unaccustomed to driving in those white-knuckle conditions made for what felt like a genuinely unsafe situation from time to time.  

From the top of the pass, a dangerous 4×4 road continues on through the acclaimed “Devil’s Punchbowl” to Crystal Mill–one of the worst 4×4 accidents in Colorado history occurred on this road.  We chose NOT to take that route, 😝 but check out this post for the 4×4 adventure we had on Forest Road 314 from Marble to Crystal Mill!

Schofield Pass and Slate River Road

Once we reached Schofield Pass, we completed the loop via Slate River Road (Forest Road 734) through Paradise Divide.  This section was not only FAR quieter and more relaxing, but it was also one of the most scenic drives I’ve ever been on (it made the other half of the loop worth the gray hairs). 😉  

Pine trees frame the rugged slopes of green, tree-covered mountains in the background
Paradise Divide

Showcasing towering mountains donning green meadows, grass-covered avalanche chutes, and streaming rivers fueled by snowmelt, this drive is incredible!  We were fortunate enough to grab one of the last remaining dispersed campsites in this area that was nestled right next to a small canyon.  We fell asleep listening to the water coursing through it that night!

Short, green, tree and grass-covered canyon walls with a small stream/waterfall flowing among them
Waterfall along Paradise Divide
An orange rooftop tent sits on a trailer in front of a truck with an awning. This is in a clearing with tall pine trees surrounding it
Our campsite

Below is a video I took of the Divide.  Be patient with me, my videographer experience is minimal, the road was bumpy, and this was taken on an iPhone.  But…this valley was so INCREDIBLY beautiful, I had to share this with you!  You can see why they gave it the name they did! 😎

The drive from Rifle to Grand Mesa Colorado

Even when not looking for a 4×4 adventure, we learned that travel on Colorado back roads can be an interesting experience.  We drove the back route from Rifle to Grand Mesa National Forest, taking Dry Hollow Road from Silt.  Then we continued, via Route 270, into Colbran and then took Route 121 to enter Grand Mesa the back way.  

The drive was lovely!  The eclectic scenery transitioned from desert-like scrubland in the Rifle area to aspen forest in the higher elevations, then to rolling farmland in the valleys (that reminded us of Pennsylvania) before ending in the spruce forests that comprise the Grand Mesa area.  

Related Posts:  Guide to Colorado Backroads and 4-Wheel-Drive Trails: Book ReviewThe Best Hidden Gems of Northern Colorado, 7 “Must-See” Colorado Ghost TownsThe Drive to Crystal Mill in Colorado

I mentioned earlier that the gazetteer didn’t always differentiate road surfaces well.  We found the regular road atlas (and the 4×4 book mentioned above) gave far better indications of what to expect for the actual conditions of the roads…

…In this situation, these routes were indicated to be “major connectors” (and I’m sure they were for that, extremely rural, area). However, this indication included roads that varied from paved and painted to those that are dirt/gravel, with some being extremely rough due to a washboard surface.  They were, often, also, narrow and winding (where two, full-size vehicles may struggle to pass).  Many also hugged the sides of cliffs on shelf roads.  They offered incredible views but may be alarming to people who aren’t accustomed to those conditions.  

We had a great time, but I note this so people are aware these conditions can make travel more difficult and may require you to budget additional time to complete the drive.     

Green grass and trees in the foreground spreading out to rocky, tree-covered mountains in the background. White puffy clouds on a blue sky
Viewpoint on the road to Grand Mesa from Silt

These portions of our trip were thrilling, nerve-wracking, and challenging.  However you manage to do it, whether it be machine-powered by a 4×4 vehicle or using your own two feet, I’d encourage you to venture out onto these lesser-traveled routes (as you are comfortable, of course).  You’ll see sites and experience adventures that the average person misses on the more well-traveled highways.  It will give you a whole different appreciation for the nature that surrounds us.

Have you ever tried out any of these Colorado backroads?  Tell me about your experience in the comments!

 

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Four pictures of a green, grassy meadow and a dirt road meandering around grass-covered mountains. Also a meadow filled with wildflowers and a lake in the background. Pin reads, "The Backroads of the Colorado High Country" 

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