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Great Hikes in the Black Elk Wilderness

In this post, I review some hiking trails found in the Black Elk Wilderness, in the Black Hills of South Dakota.

The Black Elk Wilderness covers a portion of the central Black Hills, in the Mount Rushmore/Horsethief Lake portion of the Harney range (now the Black Elk range) of South Dakota. There are some great hiking trails that traverse this area!

Hike the Horsethief Lake Trail to Grizzly Bear Creek Trail in the Black Hills

One great option is to begin at the Horsethief Lake Trail. The trailhead can be found at the Horsethief Lake Fishing/Rec area which is located off of Hwy 244, west of Mt. Rushmore.

Note: this is one turnoff east of the drive for the Horsethief Lake Campground.

There is a larger parking area right at the lake. The trailhead is located at a small parking area just to the east of here–there is a sign.

We took the Horsethief Lake Trail (Trail #14) to the Grizzly Bear Creek Trail (Trail #7) which traverses a lovely canyon area and parallels Grizzly Bear Creek for a time.

This portion of the Black Hills is particularly vulnerable to storm damage as it was decimated by the Pine Beetle plague in recent years. Due to this, there are several hazards to watch out for in this area, including blow-down sections of trees and falling limbs/trees if windy conditions are occurring.

What you’ll see hiking through the Black Elk Wilderness

The hike was lovely. Much of it traverses canyons, surrounded on all sides by towers of granite. There are several beautiful, lookout points with views of the surrounding Hills and the prairie stretching far to the east. The trail is in a largely wooded area so it would be fairly shaded in the warmer months, and as you climb there is usually at least a moderate, cooling breeze (that can be downright chilling in the cooler months).

Portions of this trail are open to horses as well so be watchful for the equines (and be careful not to step in what they leave behind).

The portion of the trail we completed was of moderate difficulty, was well-developed, and was fairly wide. There weren’t many rocks/large steps to negotiate and while there were few trail markers, they weren’t needed as the path was evident.

It should be noted that the lower part of the Horsethief Trail is frequently wet and muddy so waterproof shoes/boots are suggested. In the winter/early spring, thanks to snow-melt and the nearby creek it is often extremely icy and slick. This portion of the trail is located in a canyon under a canopy of trees so it doesn’t get much sunlight to melt the ice. We have seen several inches of thick, hazardous ice on this trail in the early spring that required our Yaktrax to navigate safely.

Other trail loops in the Black Elk Wilderness

If you’re up to the challenge, a loop can be made of this trail using the Horsethief Lake Trail to the Grizzly Bear Creek Trail to the Centennial Trail (Trail # 89). This will then eventually take you back to the Horsethief Lake trail almost at the Trailhead (the loop can be completed in either direction). This entire loop would be around 10 – 12 miles. While this is within our ability level, we weren’t sure about the steepness/difficulty of the remainder of the trail, and daylight was growing short so we chose to stop at about the halfway point, have some lunch along the creekside, and return the way we had come.

Numerous trails connect throughout the Harney (Black Elk) range. Depending on your skill level and how long you are willing to commit to being out in the wild you can hike any combination of these, ranging from a simple hike of a few hours to a backpacking trek of several days.

For those non-locals who may be wondering why I keep referring to this area as the Harney (Black Elk) range, I’ll explain. Harney Peak is the highest mountain in the Black Hills (and the tallest east of the Rockies). It stands out among the surrounding peaks of the Harney Range. The Black Elk Wilderness area comprises much of this range.

Black Elk was a Lakota, Holy Man who lived around the turn of the century, the Wilderness area is named after him.* A few years ago, it was decided that Harney Peak would be renamed Black Elk Peak in honor of this great man and as a tribute to the local, Lakota culture. As it has been such a short duration of time since the change, many of the books/maps regarding this local area (and the signs currently posted) will still carry the former name of the mountain/range.

*If you’re a history buff or just interested in American Indian culture, I highly recommend the book Black Elk Speaks by John Neihardt. It’s a biography of the Holy Man’s life based on interviews Neihardt completed with him in his final years. It is a very interesting, fairly objective account of a man growing up in a changing world. It discusses Black Elk’s nomadic life before General Custer and his soldiers arrived and the way this life changed after gold–or as Black Elk called it, “the yellow metal that makes white men crazy”–was found in the Black Hills.

Below are two pics that Mr. Trekker took of our hike:

Rock spires rise above the green, pine forest, all under a clear, blue sky — The granite spires surrounding the canyon we were hiking in

A fall scene. A small creek running through dry grass and bare trees, with green pine trees in the background, all under a clear, blue sky. — Grizzly Creek

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For more information on other trails available in the Black Elk Wilderness, click here.

Have you hiked this portion of the Black Elk Wilderness? Tell me what you thought of the beauty here in the comments!

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Swiftcurrent Trail at Glacier National Park and 5 Other “Don’t Miss” Sites!

In this post, I review the early portion of the Swiftcurrent Trail (before the Pass) at Glacier National Park.

Author’s Note: Since we visited Glacier in 2016, the Park Service has implemented a complex, ticket system for visiting the park in the summer. To be honest, I can’t make much sense of it as it involves multiple tickets being required to enjoy various activities around the park. For more information on this system, visit the park website and/or contact the park office.

Our trip to Glacier National Park was an incredible experience and we barely scratched the surface of the adventures available. We’re already making a list of the new things we want to try on our next visit (that’s the problem when we go on vacation, we don’t cross places off our list, we just find more stuff we want to do!) I’d encourage everyone to make it a priority to visit the park if you’ve never been there. Its beauty is awe-inspiring, and no one knows how greatly it may be changed in the next few decades.

The last few days of our trip we hiked the early portion of the Swiftcurrent Trail (before the Pass) and then headed home via the Beartooth and Chief Joseph Highways. It’s always fun to include a little adventure on your way home. It helps to make the return trip something to look forward to, as well!

Swiftcurrent Trail at Glacier National Park

The Swiftcurrent Trailhead is found off the parking lot for the Swiftcurrent Lodge near Many Glacier, on the east side of the park, north of St. Mary’s.

It’s an interesting trail and it varies in difficulty depending on how you choose to navigate it. It traverses as far as the Granite Park Chalet, which is a seven-mile hike to the top of Swiftcurrent Pass. There it meets up with the Highline Trail coming from Logan Pass to the south, and The Loop trail coming from Going to the Sun Road to the east.

Related posts: Going to the Sun Road at Glacier National Park; 5 Things you Don’t Want to Miss at Glacier National Park; Gunsight Pass Trail, Glacier National Park; Glacier National Park: Hiking the Apgar Lookout Trail

This is a beautiful trail that starts as a relatively flat, easy path. It then progresses into a strenuous hike on a narrow trail with sweeping dropoffs, if you choose to go that far. I wasn’t feeling well that day so we chose not to attempt the entire route this time, choosing only to go as far as Red Rock Falls.

The section of the trail we hiked was well-maintained, smooth, and not too overgrown; it’s also shaded in many parts, depending on the time of day. This was actually my favorite trail of all the ones we did throughout the week, even though it was the least challenging. Similar to other trails at this park, always be watchful for bears (can you guess if we saw any?)

We did have a close encounter with a bull moose! They are frequent visitors to this area as there are several lakes and numerous streams and they like the willows growing nearby. We were made aware of the moose further up the trail by other hikers so we had fair warning–a fellow hiker almost had a head-on collision with the ungulate though as neither he nor the moose was paying close attention!

As we came over a rise we saw a small cluster of people and then spotted the full-grown bull moose just a few steps off the trail. He appeared completely oblivious to the commotion he was causing as he calmly munched on nearby scrub. When he grew tired of the attention he sauntered down the trail and off into the woods.

Fortunately, he was mild-mannered as several hikers inadvertently had closer encounters than would be recommended. Moose are not predators but they are very large and can be very dangerous if they feel threatened (especially during the fall rut or if they’re protecting young). As with any wild animals always admire them from afar and remember the general rule of thumb, if the animal is reacting to you, you’re too close.

A bull moose amongst trees — Our friend, the moose

A bull moose stands right next to a hiking trail in the woods — He was CLOSE to the trail

Don’t Miss Red Rock Lake and Red Rock Falls!

Both Red Rock Lake and Red Rock Falls are stunning. After about 1 1/2 miles down the trail you reach your first view of the lake. It expands outward toward the west with Mt. Grinnell and its surrounding range as a backdrop. Then you skirt the lake for about another half a mile and will reach an unmarked side trail breaking off to the left towards the lake/waterfall. You can’t really see the waterfall at this point but you will hear it. Follow the unmarked trail a short distance and you’ll arrive at the base of the falls!

Lakewater ripples surrounded by rocky, towering mountains spotted with snow, all under a clear, blue sky — Red Rock Lake

A short waterfall surrounded by pine tree-covered mountainsides — Red Rock Falls

If you’re looking for some more challenging hikes in the St. Mary’s area, check out these: Siyeh Pass Trail; Iceberg Lake Trail

Montana’s Scenic Roads

On our return trip from Glacier, we spent several days driving across the Montana plains on two-lane, state roads. I’ve talked before about my love of back roads, and I strongly encourage people to get off the interstate and check out these state highways.

It can sometimes be a shortcut and it’s almost always a welcome change from the drudgery of the highway. Search for alternate routes to mix the journey up a bit so you aren’t crossing the same areas on the return trip as you traversed on your outbound route. Enjoy the drive that gets you to that vacation spot as part of your vacation.

This eases boredom but it also helps you to better appreciate the local culture and people in the areas you visit. You may be surprised at what you might learn–just pay attention to your fuel gauge and the availability of gas when venturing onto backroads. Also, be aware, that cell signal may be weak-to-nonexistent in many of these areas so be prepared to go old-school when searching for travel info. You may need to resurrect long-forgotten methods of acquiring information: travel books, hard copies of maps, and even phone books can be good resources in these areas.

We saw several missile sites leftover from the Cold War and learned about a sapphire mine from a Local (apparently these types of sapphires are only found in this area). I also had no idea Central and Eastern Montana had so many mountains! This was a pleasant surprise as I thought it was all rolling prairie.

Beartooth Pass and the Chief Joseph Highway

On our scenic trip home we knocked other points off our Vacation Bucket List by enjoying Beartooth Pass and the Chief Joseph Highway; two connecting Scenic Byways in southern Montana and northern Wyoming. Be warned, much of this area is tundra with few trees. This means there is little shelter to be found, so if a thunderstorm blows up (which one did while we were there–complete with small hail!) exercise extreme caution as lightning strikes are an especially dangerous risk in these highly exposed areas. This is also a very, high-altitude region. The Beartooth Highway usually does not open until Memorial Day Weekend (at the earliest).

Click here for a post I wrote on our attempt to navigate the route that time of year.

Red Lodge, Montana

I also highly recommend a visit to the town of Red Lodge, Montana. It was absolutely adorable with its friendly, small-town charm. It caters to summer and winter outdoor sports and is located off of US 212, about an hour south of Billings, at the base of the Rockies. The area is perfectly situated to be used as a “base camp” for whatever adventures you are seeking.

A dark, mountain lake surrounded by rocky and snow-speckled mountains — Beartooth Pass

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Gunsight Pass Trail, Glacier National Park

In this post, I review a portion of the Gunsight Pass Trail (starting from the Jackson Glacier Overlook) at Glacier National Park.

The Gunsight Pass Trail at Glacier National Park is a great hike that offers scenic views.

Similar to the Swiftcurrent Trail, this is a fairly long route that connects with several others throughout the park. It runs for almost 20 miles, from the Lake McDonald Lodge, past the Sperry Chalet, Gunsight Lake, and Lake Ellen Wilson, to the Jackson Glacier Overlook. The trail offers prime views of several waterfalls along its length. (Both trailheads can be reached from the Going to the Sun Road.) Because of its length, most thru-hikers do it in two days with an overnight stop at one of several backcountry campgrounds or the Sperry Chalet.

The Trekkers aren’t much for overnight camping in the backcountry, so we chose to only attempt the portion that runs from the Jackson Glacier Overlook, on the Going to the Sun Road, to Florence Falls. Both of us entered this hike with a bit of trepidation as it was our first real foray into Grizzly Country. Our goal was to make it to the Florence Falls trail junction (four miles in, making it a total hike of eight miles, round trip).

We had hopes of reaching the falls but wanted to wait to see how we were feeling when we got there. We knew going in that the final mile of the return trip would be a strenuous uphill climb, so we planned to reserve some energy for that (and it was good we did).

Related posts: 5 Things you Don’t Want to Miss at Glacier National Park; Glacier National Park: Hiking the Apgar Lookout Trail

Hiking on the Gunsight Pass Trail

This is a beautiful trail! As it runs largely through the forest, in a lower-lying area, along the St. Mary River, it was a cooler option on that 85-degree day. It is fairly evenly-graded with some beautiful views and was the least crowded trail we experienced in late June (we saw several groups of hikers though none of the “lines” we encountered on a few other trails). The section we chose was the least strenuous portion of the route–it runs along the valley floor as opposed to climbing the peaks as it does in other segments.

Despite being in the forest, portions of this trail do allow for breaks in the foliage that overlook a marshy area (look for moose!) with incredible views of the soaring mountain peaks and Jackson Glacier as a backdrop. Upon completing the initial steep descent the trail levels off at the picturesque Deadwood Falls.

On your return trip, this is a good place for a break before attempting the final climb to the top. There’s plenty of space to sit on the rocks in the sun or shade (depending on your preference and the time of day) and let the mist from the falling water cool you. The creek below the falls is also an opportunity to dip your feet in the chilly water; just use caution, the current is strong and the rocks may be slippery.

The coursing creek continues to accompany you along the trail. Shortly after passing the falls and the first back-country campsites, you’ll encounter an interesting suspension bridge that crosses the creek.

A short, turquoise waterfall flows over red rocks — The beautiful Deadwood Falls

Grizzly Bears at Glacier National Park

The only unpleasant factor on this trail was the huckleberry bushes; they were many and accompanied us for a large portion of the four-mile journey. That time of year they were calf to knee height, though later in the summer they can reach chest to head height.

This causes an especially sensitive situation as the berries are a favorite for grizzly bears in late summer. There are several places where the trail encounters blind corners and hills so be sure to follow standard safety guidelines when hiking in bear country: never hike alone, don’t hike around dusk or dawn, carry bear spray, and make plenty of noise (one of our favorite methods is singing and hand-clapping–this also helps to alleviate trail fatigue).

Also, be aware, that the water rushing in the nearby creek may mask your sounds and could increase the likelihood of surprising one of the large Ursines. We did not see a bear on our hike (have you noticed a trend in our hikes in Bear Country?) though we saw evidence of a very recent pass-through.

Another hazard of the thick bushes was they almost completely obscured the trail in some cases making it somewhat hard to follow. They also hid a less menacing annoyance, bees–as I, unfortunately, found out when one flew inside my hiking boot and stung me for my intrusion.

A large pile of animal poop on a dirt path — This is gross but it’s shown to make a point. This is the closest we got (and that I ever want to get) to a grizzly. I kid you not, it looked like something that came from an animal the size of a horse!

Wolverines on the Gunsight Pass Trail

We encountered another first on this trail…a wolverine! (It looked nothing like Hugh Jackman! 😝) They are commonly known in this part of the park.

We were traversing one of the clearer portions of the trail, I was in the lead. As I looked down the trail a wolverine came trotting towards us around a bend about 25 feet down the trail. We all stopped…he looked at us…we looked at him…he looked especially cranky as he panted in the heat…then he kept coming!

We’ve never encountered a wolverine in the wild before but I’ve heard stories of their nastiness (apparently they’ve been known to kill moose that have gotten mired in snowdrifts, as well as a polar bear on at least one occasion–seriously!) At this point, I was scanning the huckleberry-covered hillside for an escape route as I did NOT want to have to deal with this critter that is 1/10th my size but can kill creatures many times larger than me! Fortunately, at about that moment, he decided it was too hot for a confrontation and sprinted off into the bushes.

The view overlooks a green, marshy area with a large, snow-covered mountain in the distance. — This is the view from one of the lookout points on the trail. Moose are frequently seen in this area (none were there the day we hiked). Jackson Glacier is just out of sight on the other side of this mountain.

The view overlooks a green, marshy area with large, snow-covered mountains in the distance. — Another view from the trail lookout

We did reach our four-mile goal but did not make it to Florence Falls. We had the energy to continue on but knew it would have added over a mile to our trek and we still had a hefty climb ahead of us on the return trip. We were also running low on water so we again made the safe choice to turn back–this turned out to be wise as our water barely held out the remainder of the hike. Having faced our fears and successfully trekked eight full miles in the middle of Grizzly Country, we counted this hike as a success!

Have you hiked the Gunsight Pass Trail? What was your experience? Tell me in the comments!

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Glacier National Park: Hiking the Apgar Lookout Trail

In this post, I review the Apgar Lookout Trail at Glacier National Park, and discuss our failure to reach the summit.

Otherwise known as the “Soul-Crushing Switchbacks Trail” 😮–thank you Mr. Trekker, for that!–the Apgar Lookout Trail traverses Apgar Mountain to the fire tower near the peak, and offers views of Lake McDonald, in Glacier National Park.

Where is the Apgar Lookout Trail?

The easiest way to reach the trailhead is from the West Glacier entrance on the west side of the park. Shortly after passing through the West Glacier entrance gate a road branches off to the left with signs for the Glacier Institute, a horse corral, and the Apgar Lookout Trail. At the next intersection, you’ll turn right towards the horse corral, then continue following the signs to the left which take you to an unpaved dirt road and the trailhead.

Hiking on the Apgar Lookout Trail

This trek was rough! The trail is interesting because it isn’t that long (only about seven miles round trip); it’s also fairly wide (enough so that two people can walk side-by-side in some cases), and it’s smooth (there aren’t many roots/rocks to trip you up). The first 3/4 of a mile is fairly flat but then the elevation gain begins. You gain almost 2000 feet of elevation in about three miles over a series of three, LONG switchbacks.

Related posts: Going to the Sun Road at Glacier National Park; Swiftcurrent Trail at Glacier National Park and 5 Other “Don’t Miss” Sites!; 5 Things you Don’t Want to Miss at Glacier National Park; Gunsight Pass Trail, Glacier National Park

We didn’t fully appreciate just how steep it was on the way up, it was the difficulty in keeping our balance on the way down that clued us in. Part of what makes it so difficult is that almost the entire trail runs through a burn scar left by a forest fire from several years ago; so it is completely exposed to the sun.

We got a late start (about 2 pm as we made the attempt shortly after arriving at the park) and it was hot and fairly humid that day (about 85 degrees). I should also note my body does not tolerate heat well. There’s a reason why I rejoiced in our move to the cool Northern Plains after living in the steamy South!

The lack of shade-producing foliage does offer one advantage…this trail allows for incredible views of the surrounding Flathead River Valley!

If you make it to the top, we were told the views of Lake McDonald bordered by the park’s mountains to the north are beautiful. (click here for the webcam view from the summit of Apgar Mountain.)

In my semi-delirious state, I half-heartedly named this “the Butterfly Trail” for the numerous (and lovely) flying insects we stirred up on our trek.

As I’ve mentioned in other posts for this park, beware of bears on this trail. We did not see any but some hikers that were exiting the trail as we were starting out did. Also, three days later, a mountain biker (and park ranger) was tragically killed when he surprised a grizzly on a bike path about six miles from this very trail (outside the boundaries of the park).

A dirt path through knee-high, pine trees with green hills in the background. — The trail–the view is looking upward near the beginning of the LONG climb, this is essentially what the entire trail looks like.

Know How Hard to Push Yourself When Hiking

I’m going to get on my soapbox a bit regarding an important safety tip: KNOW YOUR LIMITS in the outdoors! There is a fine line between pushing yourself to extend your stamina and increase your strength…and putting yourself into a dangerous/potentially deadly situation.

There are some well-known symptoms of exhaustion, dehydration, and heat stress but it also helps to know your body. This takes time and experience to learn what signals your body gives when it’s being stressed and what those signals mean.

As much as it pains my pride to admit it…we didn’t make it to the top of this trail. We decided to turn around about a quarter of the way through the 3rd switchback when the “bent-double” stomach cramps and nausea hit me. I’ve learned from past experience that this is a major sign of dehydration for myself and I didn’t want to push things too far.

Always remember, just because you get to the top, that’s only halfway, you still have to get back down and sometimes going downhill can be more difficult. Exhaustion combined with the pull of gravity on the return trip can prove disastrous–I’ve worn scrapes and bruises resulting from stumbles caused by this dastardly combination on more than one occasion.

So don’t spend all your energy on only half the trail or you may find you’re unable to complete the most important half…getting home!

It’s also important to note, for the benefit of your wallet, that some parks/states require you to pay for at least a portion of the cost involved in a Search and Rescue operation if one is deemed necessary. They’ll come to get you, but the financial toll may remain long after the physical injuries have long since healed. If concern for your own body isn’t enough to convince you to turn back, perhaps concern for your wallet will be.

View down a mountain from above. Green grass and tree-covered mountains in the distance. — The view–the Flathead River Valley from near the middle of one of the switchbacks, you can see how far we’d come from the trail below us

Don’t be Afraid to Turn Back when Hiking

It’s difficult to admit we failed on this attempt, but I firmly believe we made the right decision in turning back. It’s easy to get “Summit Fever”, especially when you go into a situation expecting to succeed. The length of this trail was well within our average hiking range and it was fairly easy, technically speaking, so turning back definitely caused some wounded pride.

Don’t be afraid to admit you’ve bitten off more than you can chew though. A report from the years 2003 – 2006 found that 23% of Search and Rescue incidents included people in their 20’s and 66.3% of the victims were male. So the takeaway lesson is, that young males–the ones usually thought of as being the most healthy, strong, and capable–are also the ones most likely to run into trouble. If they struggle, the rest of us shouldn’t feel bad admitting we struggle too!

So guys, take note…find a hiking partner who wimps out before you do so you can turn back and still save face. 😉 I should note, that the cramps relented within minutes once I stopped climbing, found some shade, got some sustenance in me (food and drink), and cooled down.

If you’re looking for a challenging hike on your next trip to Glacier National Park, check out the Apgar Lookout Trail!

Have you attempted these infamous switchbacks? What was your experience like? Let me know in the comments!

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South Rim and Uncle Tom’s Trails, Yellowstone National Park

In this post I review Uncle Tom’s and the South Rim Trails, and their views of the Upper and Lower Falls, at Yellowstone National Park.

Several years ago, in June, we visited Yellowstone National Park with the Trekker In-Laws. As it was the first time there for all of us we didn’t get much hiking in, we just went full-blown tourist and hit all the “must-see” sights. But Mr. Trekker and I did get to do two very cool, very accessible hikes, the South Rim and Uncle Tom’s trails, which allow amazing views of Yellowstone’s Upper and Lower Falls.

The Trekkers visited during a time of snowmelt so some of the waterfalls were running especially high at the time.

Author’s Note: Not long after writing this post the Uncle Tom’s Trail was permanently closed due to safety concerns and maintenance costs. Unfortunately, future visitors to the park will not have the opportunity to enjoy these cool sites, so I will leave info on this trail up to allow others to experience what we saw. I feel very fortunate that we were able to see these views before they were forever altered.

The Yellowstone River:

Where are the South Rim and Uncle Tom’s Trails?

The trails are located in the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone on the South Rim. You access the South Rim Trail from the Wapiti Lake Trailhead, which then joins the Uncle Tom Trail. The trails encompass gorgeous views of both the Upper and Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River. (Only the Lower Falls was visible from the Uncle Tom Trail). The terminus of both of these routes is Point Sublime near Artist Point.

Yellowstone’s Upper Falls

Yellowstone’s Lower Falls

What are the hikes to view Yellowstone’s Upper and Lower Falls like?

Our hike began on the South Rim Trail. In a welcome contrast to the rest of the park, we saw relatively few fellow hikers even though this portion of the trail is easily accessed and has little elevation gain. I highly recommend this peaceful hike with its many beautiful views of the two falls; though as is good practice when hiking throughout the park, always be aware of the wildlife that may be sharing the trail with you (we had no bear encounters on our hike but heard stories of hikers who did).

We had more company on the Uncle Tom Trail as it was more popular. It was named for H.F. Richardson, or Uncle Tom, as was his nickname. In the late 19th Century he began guiding tourists into the Canyon to view the waterfalls and cross the river. At that time the trail consisted of numerous ropes and rope ladders that visitors had to negotiate. Fortunately on our hike, one only had to manage a hefty climb (300+ steps!) on a metal staircase bolted into the rock on the side of the canyon.

As I’ve mentioned plenty of times on this blog, I harbor a hefty case of acrophobia, or fear of heights. I tend to get vertigo and “freeze” when confronted with a lack of earth in front of me–an interesting condition for someone who enjoys hiking in high places regularly. 😝

Due to this, I was a little nervous upon venturing onto the Uncle Tom Trail as I knew the steps bolted into the side of the canyon were composed of perforated steel. That’s right, not only were you hanging off the side of a cliff but as you descended you were awarded with a view of the gaping chasm yawning below you!…or so I thought. In truth, the canyon wall was very rocky and the steps lingered over rock ledges the entire way. Though the steps did hang off the side of the wall and span a chasm, the rock floor you saw was never more than 20 or 30 feet below your feet. To my surprise, I found the descent surprisingly bearable.

The Stairs that made up Uncle Tom’s Trail:

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

I’ve been to the “real” Grand Canyon, and while it’s got an exquisite beauty all its own, I think the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone surpasses that splendor in some ways and truly lives up to its name. This canyon is far smaller and more narrow than its big brother to the south, with rock colors that vary between yellows and reds contrasted with the deep greens of the pine trees on the rim. There were also numerous patches of snow still remaining in late June.

So, if you’re looking to stretch your legs a little on your next trip to Yellowstone and want amazing views of the Upper and Lower Falls, check out the South Rim Trail!

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Canoeing at Jenney Gulch on Pactola Lake

In this post, I discuss a lovely place to enjoy paddle sports in the Black Hills, Jenny Gulch, part of Pactola Reservoir.

What’s a good way to enjoy the Great Outdoors on a hot day? Get up early to go canoeing before it gets too warm (and busy) of course!

Canoeing at Jenny Gulch on Pactola Lake

One of the Trekkers’ favorite places to take our canoe in the Black Hills is Jenny Gulch (the correct spelling is apparently “Jenney”).

This, along with Deerfield Lake, is one of the best options for paddle sports in the Black Hills, in my opinion.

This portion of the lake is a finger that branches off of the main body of water. It traverses a narrow gulch (hence the name 😉) so it is MUCH quieter than the main lake. It is a great spot for fishing, paddleboarding, canoeing or kayaking, swimming, and cliff jumping. Motorized boats are allowed but the majority of the area is “no wake” (unfortunately not all the motorboat captains choose to abide by this 😡).

For me personally, I enjoy canoeing. Kayaking is fun and can sometimes get you where a canoe can’t (as kayaks sit higher on the water) but you’re solely responsible for the control of the craft. In canoeing, you have a partner to help you. This is especially nice when your partner favors the back seat and does all the steering! 😇 Also, canoeing is a wonderful relationship-building activity. My uncle once told me, “Want to see if your relationship is meant for marriage? Go canoeing together!” (I also recommend tent camping in a severe thunderstorm/deluge of rain and home-maintenance projects. 😁)

Where is Jenny Gulch?

Jenney Gulch is located a short, 30-minute drive from Rapid City on the northwest portion of Pactola Lake. Take Highway 385 north from either Highway 44 or Sheridan Lake Road and turn left at Silver City Road. After about 3 – 4 miles turn left at the Jenney Gulch Lake/Fishing Access sign.

Before reaching this sign there’s another sign on the right for Jenney Gulch Rd., DON’T turn there. This takes you north into the hills, which we explored on another adventure. This is a bit confusing though they have improved the signage in recent years.)

If you reach Silver City, you’ve gone too far.

What you’ll see at Jenny Gulch

What’s so great about Jenney Gulch? The short answer is…EVERYTHING! For one thing, you can’t think of the name without hearing Forest Gump’s voice in your head calling it, “Jen-ay”! (or maybe that’s just me? 🤔) Beyond that, it’s a beautiful, narrow canyon with pine-covered walls that tower far above you.

Several channels and coves branch off the main gulch with calm waters that are a joy to explore. Unlike the rest of the lake, there’s little-to-no road noise and lighter human activity here so you’re free to enjoy the abundance of wildlife that surrounds you: the beaver gliding effortlessly below the canoe; the geese swimming with their fuzzball goslings that paddle obediently in their parents’ wake; the flash of the fish darting just under the surface; the graceful swoop of the heron’s neck as it takes off into the sky; the “plop” of the turtles as they slide into the water from the log where they’ve been sunning themselves.

You hear a cacophony of birdsong–the rat-a-tat-tat staccato beat of the woodpecker; the trill of the Redwing Blackbird; the screech of the Osprey calling to its mate–as you watch the vultures soaring high overhead. You may even get to see (and hear) a beaver *THWACK!* its tail on the water to warn other beavers of your presence before it dives underwater, back to safety.

This area is my favorite part of Pactola Lake. It’s beautiful, serene, and offers activities the whole family can enjoy. It’s also close enough to Rapid City that you can easily make a day (or a morning) out of it. I feel so blessed to live in a place that offers such amazing opportunities.

Have you ever been to Jenney Gulch? What did you think? Tell me about it in the comments!

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Dugout Gulch Botanical Trail (#77)

In this post, I review the Dugout Gulch Botanical trail south of Beulah, WY.

The Dugout Gulch Botanical Trail is a nine-mile loop (4.6 mi out to the loop and back, then 4.4 for the actual loop). It is located in the Wyoming Black Hills.

We didn’t complete the entire route as it started thundering–when your hiking partner is a meteorologist, you defer to his expertise on these things. 😇

Where is the Dugout Gulch Botanical Trail?

The trail is situated near Ranch A, south of Beulah, Wyoming. Take exit 205 off of I-90 (it is the first exit as you come into Wyoming). Then take Forest Road 863, south, for about six miles to the trailhead. (This is an easy, one-hour trip from Rapid City.) As you near the end of the drive you’re rewarded with a gorgeous expanse of red sandstone on the western side of the Black Hills.

What is the Dugout Gulch Botanical Trail like?

The trail was secluded and free of road noise. It has a gentle ascent the entire way to the loop but the slope is gradual. The path is fairly root/rock-free so overall it’s not strenuous. It’s well-marked and very visible as it fluctuates between a single track and a path that’s large enough for several people to walk side-by-side; much of it follows old forest roads.

The Dugout Gulch Botanical Trail begins in lush undergrowth surrounded by leafy trees (it was warm and humid on Memorial Day Weekend) and eventually gives way to more open pine forest as you increase in elevation. This contrast equates to a unique change in ecosystems as you travel up the gulch.

The path is fairly narrow to start so be watchful for others sharing the trail. This also goes for the flora/fauna you may encounter–specifically snakes and poison ivy.

I won’t comment on the GIANT spider we saw sunbathing on the rocks but we did enjoy a close encounter with a friendly bull snake on this particular hike.

As the thunder started before we reached the top I can’t speak for the full sights the trail offers but the views of the canyon walls are gorgeous (especially on the return trip). The variance in rock color from slate gray to reddish-orange, as your eyes travel up the rock face, is incredible. On much of the trail, you’re accompanied by a bubbling brook, and this along with constant bird chatter, add aesthetic delight to the hike.

We chose to hike this particular day but the trail could be amenable for other activities as well. Once you reach the loop the wide, gradual slope would make for an enjoyable bike ride and the lack of obstacles on the path would present great snowshoeing or cross-country skiing opportunities in the winter months.

My verdict: it’s not the most beautiful trail I’ve ever seen but the views of the canyon walls, the peaceful solitude, and the ease of the path make for an enjoyable afternoon.

A picture of our new friend is below: 😊

A large, yellow and black snake blends in with the brown and green grass and brown pine needles on the forest floor.

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Intro

Welcome to my blog!

I am a 30-something wife and doggy momma who loves being outside, loves to travel and loves the freedom nature provides. I feel spiritually renewed when I’m out in the natural world and find that it’s a calming balm to offset hectic, everyday life. I also struggle with anxiety and find that my love of nature helps to mitigate those symptoms. This blog is meant to share experiences, provide opportunities to discover new adventures and to help others find peace in the natural world that surrounds us.

Enjoy!