moose Archives : Tranquil Trekker

Bighorn Medicine Wheel in Wyoming

In this post, I discuss an ancient medicine wheel in the Bighorns!

There is a prehistoric Medicine Wheel hidden in the northern, Bighorn mountains of eastern Wyoming. It was built by the ancient ancestors of today’s American Indian tribes. More than 80 tribes claim the wheel in their oral traditions so it can’t be attributed to any one group or culture, though it’s, obviously, a very sacred site.

What does the Bighorn Medicine Wheel look like?

This is one of the largest, stone medicine wheels in North America (there are at least 150 spread throughout the continent). It’s constructed with a center cairn with spokes emanating from it to an outer circle that connects six, smaller cairns that appear to be strategically placed.

Archeologists aren’t sure of the wheel’s exact age, most estimates date it back at least 800 years, but it could be far older. Archaeological evidence shows human habitation as far back as 12,000 years in this area!

The ranger we spoke with stated the six rock cairns that dot the outer portion of the circle are believed to have a celestial purpose, but the exact function remains a mystery–it is thought that they may have been used during vision quests. The last time the six cairns matched up with celestial markers was at least as far back as the 1700s!

Medicine Wheels are Sacred Sites

Religious ceremonies are still held at the wheel on a regular basis as many tribal members make religious pilgrimages to the site. Some of the ceremonies involve large groups, while others include only a few individuals–two, small, private ceremonies occurred while we were there. Anyone with American Indian heritage can participate in a ceremony.

It’s always enthralling for me to observe religious practices that I’m not familiar with. I’m fascinated by the emotions you see play out on the faces of the participants, and how descriptive their movements can be. I find their actions evoke emotions within me as well. You can actually feel the peace and tranquility emanating from them as they dance, pray, or worship in their own way.

A tour of the wheel may be delayed if a ceremony is occurring, though they usually don’t last longer than 30 minutes, so please be patient and respectful during this time of worship. Numerous religious offerings are tied to the fence that rings the site (or are placed within the wheel itself). Please do not touch or photograph these items directly as they are sacred. It is also requested that people not take photos or videos of the ceremonies, as they are occurring, to respect the privacy of the participants.

Where is the Bighorn Medicine Wheel?

The wheel is located on Forest Road 12, off of US 14A, in the northern part of the Bighorns. It’s about 20 miles from Burgess Junction (where 14A branches off from US 14 to the east) and about 30 miles from Lovell, Wyoming, to the west.

Related posts: Lake Helen, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming; 4 Don’t Miss Sites in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming; West Tensleep Trail, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming; Camping in the Bighorns

The parking lot is a mile-and-a-half walk from the wheel on a graded, dirt road. The hike isn’t bad, though it is uphill both ways (seriously 😝) and the altitude is over 9,000 feet, so take your time. The site is also above tree line so bring a hat, water, and sunscreen, and be prepared for the ever-present, Wyoming wind. It usually takes an hour or so to complete the entire route. The site is free to visit, though donations are appreciated. Because this is a sacred site, pets are not permitted and must be left in the parking area.

The only thing that marred the experience was the large, FAA radar placed on the adjoining peak (because none of the numerous, other peaks in the surrounding area, that were a little farther away, wouldn’t have worked? REALLY?!) Federal Government, do better! 😤

Panoramic view of a rocky mountainside. Tree-covered mountains spread in the distance under a crystal clear, blue sky — The incredible view of the Bighorns from the Medicine Wheel site (to the right is the road you hike to reach the wheel)

Small stones on the ground form the center and outer portions of a wheel with stone spokes connecting them — The Medicine Wheel (you can see one of the rock cairns in the foreground to the left)

The Backroads of Wyoming

I’ve suggested before, to always take the scenic route, when time permits. We enjoyed a good bit of that on this trip! We started by taking Route 24, west, from where it branches off near the Island Park campground. We then took Forest Road 408, to BLM Road 1117, on to Hyattville.

This route is listed in the gazetteer as being Hyattville Road, but we saw NO signs reflecting this. Similar to what we’ve found in Colorado, even though a road may be listed as a “major connector”, especially in the gazetteer, this could easily mean the road is actually dirt (sometimes wide and graded, other times little more than a narrow, two-track, high-clearance road that I wouldn’t be comfortable taking an Outback on). 😝

We used three separate maps–the gazetteer, a Bighorns map we picked up at a local, outdoor store, and a road atlas–to gather a–somewhat accurate–estimate of the roads’ actual conditions. Part of the difficulty was the roads traversed National Forest and BLM land in this area, and each department names and maintains their roads differently.

Overlooking a rocky cliff with pine trees growing up from below — A view from our backroad trip

The drive was very manageable with Mr. Trekker’s Tacoma (any high-clearance, 4WD vehicle could handle it in good conditions). There were no steep drop-offs and no, real, technical obstacles like what we’ve encountered on some of the roads in Colorado. It was also beautiful, ranging from alpine, spruce forests and aspen groves, to dun-colored high prairies dotted with tan and red clay mounds, adorned with the varying greens of the diverse foliage. Rock-rimmed canyons with their gaping mouths open onto prairie grasses far below, while rocky cliffs of various colors traverse throughout, all with the imposing Bighorns as a backdrop.

Here is a video I made that showcases the beauty that is eastern Wyoming.

After leaving the Medicine Wheel, we decided we were game to try a few more back roads. We took another scenic trip, east, on US 14A to Burgess Junction, where we picked up US 14 and took it west. We took that road to Route 17, another “major connector”, that we then took to Alkali Road/BLM Road 1111/Route 228, back to Hyattville (this is a back way to reach the Medicine Wheel from the south).

Again, these road numbers and names were listed on the gazetteer and one of the maps–some of these roads didn’t even appear on the Atlas–but were NOT shown on the actual road. We just trusted the signs that directed us back to Hyattville. You always need to be flexible when taking back roads, as you never know what kind of obstacles or conditions may cross your path. I should also note, there was NO cell coverage in this remote location (and GPS can often be inaccurate), so maps are often times your only option–time to go “old school” folks!

Another road we could have driven was labeled in the Gazetteer as the “Red Gulch, Alkali National Back Country Byway”. We didn’t actually drive it this time–though we returned at a later date to check out the fossilized dinosaur footprints it leads to! 😯

The Back Country Byway is more of a two-track, high-clearance path, at least in spots. I certainly wouldn’t call it a “main road”. Funnily enough, the roads we took back to Hyattville ended up being in better shape than the back road we brought out from the campground. They were graded, gravel roads that one could expect to travel 30 – 40 mph on (if the rancher in front of us hadn’t decided a slower speed was better. Unfortunately, on those roads, that are only about 1.5 lanes wide, passing really isn’t an option unless the person in front of you is feeling charitable and pulls over. This man didn’t. 😜) So, we enjoyed a leisurely, scenic stroll through the beautiful Wyoming countryside. 😁

After reaching Hyattville we took Route R54 (another graded, well-maintained, gravel road) to Ten Sleep and then got to enjoy the, INCREDIBLY beautiful, US 16 east through Ten Sleep Canyon, back to our campground. (Did I mention, almost all of these roads, despite their varying conditions–with the exception of the highways–had the EXACT SAME indicators on the map? 😜)

The topography of Wyoming is very unique. It’s characterized by the towering Bighorns in the northeast, to the Grand Tetons that criss-cross Yellowstone and the Rockies, in the west. A drier, large, bluff-filled basin sits between Yellowstone and the Bighorns.

Some parts of the state are prettier than others–while the dry, scrubland that surrounds the mountains can be pretty and green in spring, it usually turns rather drab in the later months. The basin area is dotted with oil fields and sketchy-looking, government sites with warning signs plastered on the fences, which can be rather intimidating. 😳

Below are some more pics of our scenic drive:

MOOSE in the Bighorn Mountains!

Earlier that summer, we spent ten days in the Colorado high country during peak season and we didn’t see one moose. Later that fall, we spent ten seconds in the Bighorn mountains of Wyoming (literally), and TWO moose were waiting to greet us when we arrived at our campsite! Bighorns for the win!

Two moose in a field as seen through the trees — Our ungulate friends (this year it was Maggie and Megan)

As I’ve mentioned previously, I’m always surprised at how much this part of Wyoming reminds me of the Colorado mountains. The scenery and critters are very similar, with the added benefit of being half as long a distance from the Black Hills and FAR less crowded than Colorado. 😉

If you’re looking for an amazing, historical site to visit in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming, check out the Bighorn Medicine Wheel!

Have you ever visited the prehistoric Medicine Wheel in the Bighorns? Tell me about it in the comments!

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West Tensleep Trail, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming

The Big Horn National Forest, in Wyoming, is a wonderful place to enjoy some secluded time in the woods.

The Trekkers LOVE to visit the Bighorn Mountains, in northeastern Wyoming. Each time we go to this area I re-discover my love for them all over again! I enjoy that mountain range almost as much as the Rockies. This is probably because they are very similar with a few wonderful exceptions: there are fewer people in the Bighorns and the Wyoming wilderness is only a few hours from the Black Hills–rather than the 6 to 8-hour drive to the Rockies. Traffic is much better too! 😉

The weather in this area (during the warmer months, at least) is usually comprised of blue skies, warm temps, and clear, crisp evenings. Conditions can change fast though! The Trekkers have a tradition of camping in the Bighorns over Labor Day Weekend and it isn’t unusual for this area to receive its first significant snowstorm of the year a scant week or so later.

On this particular visit, we came to hike the West Ten Sleep trail to Mirror Lake. The only downside for this trip was lingering smoke from wildfires in Montana. When we arrived in Buffalo, Wyoming, on Friday evening, you could barely make out the mountains through the smoky haze.

If you’ve never been there, Buffalo is basically nestled into the eastern base of the Bighorns, similar to how Rapid City is nestled into the eastern base of the Black Hills. If you’ve never been to either locale, well, let’s just say you normally can’t miss the mountains, they’re like, right there! 😜 Also, you need to plan a visit!!!

Where is the West Tensleep Trailhead?

You will find the trailhead at the end of Route 27 North. The road basically ends at West Tensleep Lake and the trail continues along the Tensleep Creek from there. Route 27 branches off of US 16 just east of the B-E-A-Utiful Tensleep Canyon and just west of Meadowlark Lake and the Meadowlark Ski Lodge.

You should note that Route 27 is often closed to regular vehicles during the snowy season, which is lengthy in this part of the country, as it becomes a snowmobile trail. Other times of the year this dirt road can become rugged (in snowy or muddy conditions, even if it’s open) and a 4WD or high-clearance AWD vehicle may be able to handle it better.

Hiking the West Tensleep Trail to Mirror Lake

That Saturday dawned clear and beautiful–we were thankful for a reprieve from the smoke that day–so we hiked West Tensleep Trail (Trail #65) to Mirror Lake. This trail can go as far as Twin Lakes, though that is a 12-mile hike in each direction. We opted to stop at Mirror Lake (at about the halfway point), but the full trail would be ideal for an overnight backpacking trip. This moderate trek is beautiful and accented with stream crossings, sprawling meadows, and a few waterfall views. It is well-marked and wide in most places and not overly difficult. What makes it strenuous at times is the altitude (it reaches close to 10,000 feet in places) though the views of the surrounding summits are worth it!

Related posts: Lake Helen, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming; Camping in the Bighorns; Bighorn Medicine Wheel in Wyoming; 4 Don’t Miss Sites in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming

The gurgling creek accompanies you most of the way creating an iconic, mountain experience. The neighboring stream and the craggy peaks towering nearby especially reminded me of hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park.

A stream runs through a forest — West Tensleep Trail

Mirror Lake!

Mirror Lake is a beautiful, alpine lake that mirrors the sky and adjacent cliffs when calm (likely where it gets its name!) and makes a prime lunch spot before turning back or continuing on to Twin Lakes. Usually, we enjoy peaceful solitude in this region, but this time it was quite “crowded” (we saw 5 – 10 other groups on the same trail–that’s crowded in the Bighorns!) Apparently, we weren’t the only ones looking to escape the 90-degree heat of the lower elevations that weekend!

Mr. Trekker stands on a cliff edge with his back to us, looking out over the mountain vista. Tree-covered mountain slopes are in the background. — Just a man and his mountains

Island Park Campground, Bighorn Mountains

We stayed at the Island Park campground and our campsite was located on the fringe of the national forest, overlooking a marshy, grassy valley.

Don’t be afraid of the lesser-developed national forest campgrounds. They are spectacular, though you do need a tolerance for “roughing it” a bit if you’re tent camping (while potable water is often available in the “on” season, pit toilets are regularly all that is offered). If you’ve got an RV this may not be an issue (and the “developed” campgrounds can often accommodate RVs). These sites are usually more off the beaten path so they tend to be quieter, more enjoyable, and may provide more wildlife viewing opportunities.

Moose in the Bighorns!

An added bonus that made this weekend laudable was the “visitors” we received each evening (and most mornings). If you’ll recall, in a previous post, I mentioned State Forest State Park in north-central Colorado had the best moose-viewing opportunities we’d ever seen…until this trip! 😁 A single cow and another momma and her baby visited us at least once a day the whole weekend. One evening a large bull also graced us with his presence.

This campground was the perfect place to view moose as they happily gorged on the willow branches that dotted the boundary. We named them Maggie, Molly, Matilda, and Marvin (they’re moose, obviously all their names have to start with “m”! 😉) Marvin kept his distance but the three ladies ventured right up near the campsites if people were quiet enough and gave them their space. It was an incredibly beautiful, (dare I say tranquil?) site to behold.

A cow and baby moose walk through a meadow with a stream running through it. The forest creates a backdrop. — Maggie and Molly

I’ve always been fascinated by moose, perhaps because they’re one of the only critters that aren’t native to the various regions I’ve lived in. They’re slightly odd-looking creatures (though cute too), and while they seem like they would be awkward clodhoppers 😂, with their large bodies –especially the males–they’re actually quite graceful when they run through wetlands or swim across streams. They seem like big cows but be warned, they ARE wild animals that can be quite dangerous and aggressive if provoked (especially the mothers protecting their babies or the males during the rutting season). Usually, if you leave them alone and give them the respect they deserve, they’ll offer you the same consideration.

Note: Moose are NOT afraid of dogs and they have been known to kill dogs. PLEASE, keep your dogs leashed and fully under control in Moose Country. (Also, the Forest Service can and will ticket you for “harassing wildlife” if they feel you’re allowing your dogs to bother the moose. Always remember, this is at the ranger’s discretion, it doesn’t matter if you agree that harassment was occurring or not…

A cow moose is seen eating willows just a few feet from a tent! — Oh, hello! (you can see how close she got to the campground!)

West Tensleep Lake

Sunday we canoed West Tensleep Lake surrounded by the imposing peaks of the Cloud Peak Wilderness (and only slightly marred by lingering smoke). This is a small lake but it’s no-wake so it’s ideal for canoeing, kayaking, and wake-boarding (just give your fellow fishermen space to enjoy their activities, as well.)

We also attempted to reach East Tensleep Lake via Forest Road 430. While Mr. Trekker had fun practicing his 4×4-ing skills we decided the road was a little more than we wanted to tackle that day so we only traveled about halfway. We enjoyed beautiful views throughout, however. (Check out this post for info on our return trip to that lake!)

A creek runs through a meadow scattered with trees. Mountains can be seen looming through the haze in the background. — Off Forest Road 430

The road parallels Tensleep Creek which offers countless fishing opportunities. It also crosses several expansive meadows providing prime disperse-camping opportunities (this is national forestland so dispersed camping is allowed, just follow all local regulations pertaining to the use of fires). There are also ample opportunities for on and off-trail hiking.

Busy Bee Cafe, Buffalo, Wyoming

Monday morning dawned smoky once again as we packed up to head for home. We ended our trip by enjoying a well-earned breakfast at one of our favorite local haunts, the Busy Bee Cafe in Buffalo! This small diner was thrust into the spotlight thanks to Craig Johnson’s Longmire series that is based in this general area (and its reputation is warranted).

Below are some more pictures from our wonderful weekend (as always thanks to Mr. Trekker for a few of these):

Have you hiked the West Tensleep Trail, or visited Mirror or West Tensleep Lakes? Tell me about your experiences in the comments!

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11 “Don’t Miss” Sites in Colorado

Our adventures in Colorado on our 2017 road trip.

We spent the second week of our 2017 Road Trip enjoying 11 Don’t Miss Sites in Colorado. That state is, by far, one of my favorite locations in the entire country to visit (and we’ve seen the 48 Continental US States!) Its beauty is indescribable and pictures don’t truly do it justice.

The following is a rundown of the highlights of our tour around the state. Thanks again to Mr. Trekker for some of the pictures!

Trinidad, Colorado

Trinidad is an old-school, Western town in far Southwestern Colorado, only about 15 miles from the New Mexico border. It’s a cute little community that’s been well-maintained and has seen some modern updates in recent years.

I’m still adjusting to the whole “pot legalization thing” in Colorado. 😂 It’s not my fault, I was a DARE child of the ’90s, I grew up being taught that it was bad (of course this was by the same people who also taught us that Pluto was a planet–and people wonder why I have a skeptical nature!) Then there’s the issue where it’s legal in the state but not in National Parks within that state because that’s Federal land and it’s still illegal Federally. Like every good Libertarian, I’m willing to tolerate it but *sigh*, does this make anyone else’s brain hurt?

The next day, we headed West from Trinidad on Route 160, bound for Mesa Verde National Park! 12 years ago we visited the park and parts of Western Colorado on our very first road trip, so it was cool going back. Some of it we remembered, but it had been so long that there was plenty that we were seeing again “for the first time”.

Related Posts: 10 “Don’t Miss” Places for your Great Plains Road Trip; Lessons Learned on a Road Trip; 5 “Don’t Miss” Places for Your New Mexico Road Trip

Having just recently survived a bout with an aggressive flu, I was still not my best self at this point, though, as we were entering some beautiful country we wanted to do a little sightseeing. The first pass we arrived at (and the first overlook) we stopped to take some pictures. I stepped out of the car, took one step on the unsteady gravel in my flip-flops, and skidded to my knees. The fall left a lovely road rash in its wake (because this trip just hadn’t been adventurous enough!)

At first, I figured it was nothing, till I looked down and saw red rivulets running down my leg *sigh*. So, back to the car, we went, with Mr. Trekker coming at me with the first aid kit. Unfortunately, it only had alcohol swabs in it and we were FAR from any modern bathroom with water and soap. Needless to say, Mr. Trekker was NOT my favorite person that day! But, kudos to him, he bandaged me up well (albeit painfully) and I now only have a minor scar to show for my misfortune. 😝

Mesa Verde National Park:

This unique park showcases cliff dwellings from the civilizations who lived there thousands of years ago. Some you can view from overlooks, and some you can actually tour (self-guided and ranger-led). They’ve also got a great campground with spectacular star-gazing opportunities.

Our first trip to the park was one of my first camping experiences out West where there’s far less light pollution. I remember being astounded at the light show the night sky put on (and that’s coming from a girl who grew up on an Indiana farm). It was on my first visit to this park that I fell in love with Colorado and “the West”. I didn’t know then that in six years I’d become a “Westerner” myself!

Unlike many of the national parks (such as Rocky), the campgrounds have modern bathrooms—read, flush toilets, and showers. I’d recommend at minimum a 2-day stay to really get the most out of the park.

Rocky ruins of an ancient residence sit in a slot in the cliff wall. Tree-covered rocky slopes are above and below the ruins. — Cliff dwelling

Dry canyon with sage brush and trees covering the canyon walls — Navajo Canyon

Route 550, the Million Dollar Highway:

On our first trip to this area, we stumbled upon this highway accidentally, completely unprepared for what we were about to experience (it was just the most accessible option to get us where we wanted to go). The second time around we knew what we were in for…and were still awed.

Route 550, in western Colorado, runs north to south between Grand Junction and Durango. It is called the Million Dollar Highway because it is so beautiful it offers million-dollar views as it traverses many mountain passes.

If you’ve never traveled this route, I STRONGLY recommend it, though I’d suggest navigating the road from south to north starting in Durango. This ensures your car is on the inside of the sharp turns the majority of the time. If you’re coming from the north you will find yourself frequently perched along cliff edges with nothing between you and the gaping maw of the canyon below than some thin oxygen (there are no guardrails the majority of the drive as the snowplow drivers need space to push the snow off the cliffs in the winter months).

If you can handle the drop-offs, this drive is a must! This area is referred to as the “Switzerland of America” because its incredible mountain vistas rival those found in the immensely beautiful, European country.

I can testify the views here rival those we saw in Glacier National Park on the Going to the Sun Road (though these are more accessible, depending on your location). Also, this road is open all year, weather permitting.

The most popular portion of the drive (between Durango and Ouray) is less than 70 miles in length, but plan for it to take several hours (that was our big mistake the first go-around). It’s a slow drive, in some areas the suggested speed limit on the curves is only 10 – 15 mph (and trust me, they aren’t joking). It can be slower if you find yourself traveling behind larger, slower-moving vehicles.

The most intense (and most beautiful) portion of the route runs the 25 miles between Silverton and Ouray. Stops are frequently caused by construction in the summer months as workers are constantly fighting the ongoing battle with natural erosion. Rockslides are also common (as well as avalanches in the winter).

This drive can be frightening for us acrophobes with its steep drop offs but the immensely beautiful views are worth it! There’s plenty of skiing, 4×4 trails, hiking, camping, rafting, and a slew of other activities available in this corner of Colorado, so be sure to put it on your “must-see” list.

Telluride, Colorado:

Telluride was about what I would expect from a ski town (the Trekkers are uncoordinated and therefore not downhill skiers). It was lovely, though we were a little early for the summer season so the upper roads weren’t clear of snow or open yet. We walked down the road to view a staple of the town, Bridal Veil Falls. The road up to it was open for hiking, but as I still wasn’t at my best we decided to skip that option this trip. Instead, we opted for lunch at Brown Dog Pizza, a local joint where I can honestly say I had the best cheese calzone I have ever eaten, hands down.

The ricotta cheese seemed as though it had been whipped into an airy froth. I’m no food connoisseur, but it was incredible.

Peering through a frame of spring-green trees, a tall waterfall cascades over a cliff with snow and tree-covered mountains in the background. — Bridal Veil Falls

Ouray, Colorado (pronounced U-Ray):

The drive into town from the south is one of the most beautiful views I’ve ever seen. THIS I remembered from 12 years ago. You descend from the harrowing Million Dollar Highway and this small oasis of civilization opens up before you in the valley, beckoning you down from the peaks. (If you’ve seen the show “The Ranch” on Netflix, this town is the one used in the opening credits).

Ridgeway State Park:

Ridgeway State Park has one of my favorite campgrounds we visited on the entire trip (part of the reason we spent three days there!) It’s located just north of Ridgeway on Route 550 (north of Ouray, so out of the peaks). They have a lovely, shaded, tent-camping area that’s back off the road, complete with level, graded tent sites, modern restrooms (and showers!), all surrounded by cedar trees.

This brings me to another point. Apparently, it’s perfectly legal to smoke pot in Colorado State Parks, but don’t you dare hang a hammock from a cedar tree! I’m sure there is a good reason for this due to the risk of damage to the trees, and I’m all about protecting nature, but this just seemed to be a bit of a misalignment of priorities to me! 😝

The park surrounds a picturesque reservoir set against a backdrop of snow-capped Rockies to the east. Its location makes it an ideal base camp for numerous day trips and activities.

Sunset. Dark silhouettes of trees in the foreground with a lake and dark silhouettes of mountains in the background. — Ridgeway State Park

Green trees and a lake in the foreground, tree-covered mountains behind with snow-topped, rocky mountains in the background — It was so strange to look to the east and see the Rockies

True Grit Film Sites

The park also happens to be near the filming location of the original western, True Grit (the one from 1969 with John Wayne, not the new version). If you’re a good enough detective there are numerous filming sites you can locate in this area (though please be aware, many of these areas are located on private land and you are trespassing if you travel on them without the owner’s permission. Please be respectful of private property!) Click here for some help finding the sites!

We were able to view Mattie Ross’ Ranch, Courthouse Mountain, Chimney Peak, and the meadow where the shootout scene was filmed, without difficulty. The last three can be found off of Route 8 (to reach this travel east from Route 550). You’ll reach The Meadow about ½ mile before the summit of Owl Creek Pass. Courthouse Mountain and Chimney Peak are visible from The Meadow and Sleeping Rock is located at the summit of the pass.

Two large rocks sit leaning on each other amongst trees in the forest. — Sleeping Rock (the rock Mattie Ross slept on in the 1969 version of True Grit)

Green meadow surrounded by trees with early, spring-green leaves. A tall, chimney-like mountain and a box-like mountain sit side-by-side in the background. — Courthouse Mountain and Chimney Peak

Mattie Ross’ Ranch is located off of Last Dollar Road which is found off of Highway 62 (the road from Ridgeway to Telluride).

Several ranch buildings (barns, an old house) sit in a field behind fences. A grassy hill rises in the background. — Mattie Ross’ ranch

Green meadow surrounded by trees with early, spring-green leaves. — Deb’s Meadow (where the final shootout scene was filmed)

Grand Mesa National Forest:

Grand Mesa National Forest is another “must-see” location in the mountains east of Grand Junction. It’s primarily used for cross-country skiing and snowmobiling in the winter months. It’s got some great campground/fishing/hiking opportunities as well, but we were, unfortunately, too early in the season to really take advantage of these options. The hiking trails weren’t yet open as there were still feet of snow drifted on them in some places. Click here for more info on our return trip to Grand Mesa!

During the peak of summer, this would be a prime place to escape the heat though, the day we were there it was near 90 in the closest town on the valley floor and it was in the ’40s, and raining/snowing large glops on us at the summit.

A snowy field with gray, cloudy skies — Snow on the summit, this was June 6th ya’ll!

Rifle/Rifle Falls, Colorado:

We spent our final hotel stay of the trip in the small town of Rifle, Colorado. This is an adorable, little town with an awesome state park!

Rifle Falls State Park was absolutely beautiful. It was the only place I’ve ever been where you can traverse walkways that stick out over the TOP of the falls! The caves at the bottom were picturesque as well (and provided a cool respite from the summer heat).

Three small, short waterfalls cascade over rocks covered by trees into a pool of water surrounded by green grass — Rifle Falls

A side view of a waterfalls cascading over rocks covered in trees. A smaller falls is in the background — A different view of the falls

State Forest State Park:

$20/night for a campsite; going several days with no indoor plumbing (or showering); a DISGUSTING pit toilet (seriously, it was an upside-down pail sitting over a stinky hole in the ground); BUT…eating dinner while a cow moose and two calves eat theirs, in a field, a few thousand yards away with the Rockies as a backdrop…PRICELESS!!!

We spent the last three nights of our trip at State Forest State Park which is renowned for its moose sightings (many were re-introduced here back in the 90s.). The park actually claims to be the “Moose Viewing Capital of the World!”

It definitely offered the best moose sightings we had ever experienced…until our Labor Day camping trip in the Big Horns later that year…you can read about that here!

Tall, snow-peaked, rocky mountains with pine trees and grass in the foreground. — This view reminded us of the Garden Wall at Glacier NP.

A tent on grass, surrounded by trees in the foreground. Rocky, snow-topped mountains glowing a light pink in the sunset in the background — Alpenglow over the Western Rockies (Rocky Mountain National Park and the Never Summer Mountains are basically due east from here, right over those mountains.)

A lake, surrounded by pine trees with a rocky moutain with spots of snow in the background — Ranger Lakes

Green grass field with pine trees in the background. Three large, dark, shapes that appear to be moose are emerging from the trees. Mountains dotted with snow are in the far background — Moose from the campsite

CLOSE ENCOUNTER of the Mountain Lion Kind!!!

The final night of our trip I had a true close encounter (at least I think I did, it was dark and it was over fast!) It was late and we were the only people still up in the half-full campground. Our campsite was perched on a hill backed by the forest and fronted by a lake.

The first night, we spied a moose family skirting the campground using a gully to get to the lake for their evening drink, so we knew it was a popular thoroughfare for the local wildlife. We were waiting for the fire to burn down and out of the corner of my eye, I spotted movement in the empty campsite across the road (maybe 30 yards away and downhill from our site). At first, I thought it was a deer I had seen meandering around earlier that evening…and then I realized the “deer” had a long tail…

Interesting side note, many stories I’ve heard of people spotting mountain lions start with, “I thought it was a deer till I realized it had a long tail…” 😮

…then I thought it was a dog from one of the neighboring campsites, but I was pretty sure he was in the tent with his family…and the creature I spotted didn’t move like a dog…

Its movements were stealthy, fluid, and sleek; beautiful actually. I couldn’t tear my eyes away. It almost glided across the ground. It reminded me of watching a cat jumping onto a high shelf when you’re sure any minute it will send objects flailing into space but instead it glides gracefully around them.

It was visible for only a few seconds, once it saw me it hightailed it out of there (which is exactly what we WANT wild animals to do!), and I wasn’t able to get Mr. Trekker’s attention quickly enough for him to see it. We looked for tracks the next morning and didn’t find any but the ground was very dry and hard so this wasn’t a surprise. I can’t prove it but…I think I saw my first mountain lion that night (that’s my story and I’m sticking to it! 😉)

Oregon Trail Ruts, Guernsey, Wyoming:

On the last day of our trek, we stopped for lunch in Guernsey, Wyoming at the Oregon Trail Ruts State Historic Site. There we viewed wagon wheel ruts left forever engraved on the landscape by the pioneers traveling the Oregon Trail.

You could almost hear the lowing of oxen, the clanking of household items, and the creaking of the wagons as they slowly made their way across the prairie. You could almost smell the rank odor of animal and human sweat mixed with the constant cling of dust stirred up by the plodding of the animals’ hooves.

It was humbling to think that we traveled almost 3500 miles on our two-week road trip, crisscrossing across eight states and visiting countless places in our air-conditioned, all-wheel-drive car, with a suspension that gently glides across any bumps in our path (on the paved or graded gravel roads we drove on). Whereas these people traveled thousands of miles in a wagon train, a trip that took MONTHS as they slowly crept their way across the bumpy, muddy, rutted, rock-strewn ground, and lived under constant threat of death by exposure, disease, or attack.

When I got sick we drove five minutes to the local Urgent Care, it took maybe an hour to get seen, then we went to the Walgreens across the street for medicine and I was back in the hotel room on the road to recovery 20 minutes later. Back in the days of the wagon trains the same ailment likely would have meant DAYS of misery as the best of potential outcomes.

Two parallel ruts in the rock, green grass and tree-covered hills in the background — The Oregon Trail Wheel Ruts

A few final pictures from our jaunt around Colorado. If you haven’t been there, I STRONGLY encourage you to put it on your bucket list. You won’t regret it!

Green, grassy meadow with snow-capped mountains towering in the background — The Rockies

Lake surrounded by scrub brush and tree-covered mountains — Rifle Gap Reservoir

Dash of a car shows a mileage reading of 3501 miles — Odometer reading as we pulled into the driveway (No! We didn’t drive around the block an extra time to get it to 3500, I don’t know what you’re talking about!) 🙂

Have you visited any of these places? Tell me about your adventure in the comments!

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Swiftcurrent Trail at Glacier National Park and 5 Other “Don’t Miss” Sites!

In this post, I review the early portion of the Swiftcurrent Trail (before the Pass) at Glacier National Park.

Author’s Note: Since we visited Glacier in 2016, the Park Service has implemented a complex, ticket system for visiting the park in the summer. To be honest, I can’t make much sense of it as it involves multiple tickets being required to enjoy various activities around the park. For more information on this system, visit the park website and/or contact the park office.

Our trip to Glacier National Park was an incredible experience and we barely scratched the surface of the adventures available. We’re already making a list of the new things we want to try on our next visit (that’s the problem when we go on vacation, we don’t cross places off our list, we just find more stuff we want to do!) I’d encourage everyone to make it a priority to visit the park if you’ve never been there. Its beauty is awe-inspiring, and no one knows how greatly it may be changed in the next few decades.

The last few days of our trip we hiked the early portion of the Swiftcurrent Trail (before the Pass) and then headed home via the Beartooth and Chief Joseph Highways. It’s always fun to include a little adventure on your way home. It helps to make the return trip something to look forward to, as well!

Swiftcurrent Trail at Glacier National Park

The Swiftcurrent Trailhead is found off the parking lot for the Swiftcurrent Lodge near Many Glacier, on the east side of the park, north of St. Mary’s.

It’s an interesting trail and it varies in difficulty depending on how you choose to navigate it. It traverses as far as the Granite Park Chalet, which is a seven-mile hike to the top of Swiftcurrent Pass. There it meets up with the Highline Trail coming from Logan Pass to the south, and The Loop trail coming from Going to the Sun Road to the east.

Related posts: Going to the Sun Road at Glacier National Park; 5 Things you Don’t Want to Miss at Glacier National Park; Gunsight Pass Trail, Glacier National Park; Glacier National Park: Hiking the Apgar Lookout Trail

This is a beautiful trail that starts as a relatively flat, easy path. It then progresses into a strenuous hike on a narrow trail with sweeping dropoffs, if you choose to go that far. I wasn’t feeling well that day so we chose not to attempt the entire route this time, choosing only to go as far as Red Rock Falls.

The section of the trail we hiked was well-maintained, smooth, and not too overgrown; it’s also shaded in many parts, depending on the time of day. This was actually my favorite trail of all the ones we did throughout the week, even though it was the least challenging. Similar to other trails at this park, always be watchful for bears (can you guess if we saw any?)

We did have a close encounter with a bull moose! They are frequent visitors to this area as there are several lakes and numerous streams and they like the willows growing nearby. We were made aware of the moose further up the trail by other hikers so we had fair warning–a fellow hiker almost had a head-on collision with the ungulate though as neither he nor the moose was paying close attention!

As we came over a rise we saw a small cluster of people and then spotted the full-grown bull moose just a few steps off the trail. He appeared completely oblivious to the commotion he was causing as he calmly munched on nearby scrub. When he grew tired of the attention he sauntered down the trail and off into the woods.

Fortunately, he was mild-mannered as several hikers inadvertently had closer encounters than would be recommended. Moose are not predators but they are very large and can be very dangerous if they feel threatened (especially during the fall rut or if they’re protecting young). As with any wild animals always admire them from afar and remember the general rule of thumb, if the animal is reacting to you, you’re too close.

A bull moose amongst trees — Our friend, the moose

A bull moose stands right next to a hiking trail in the woods — He was CLOSE to the trail

Don’t Miss Red Rock Lake and Red Rock Falls!

Both Red Rock Lake and Red Rock Falls are stunning. After about 1 1/2 miles down the trail you reach your first view of the lake. It expands outward toward the west with Mt. Grinnell and its surrounding range as a backdrop. Then you skirt the lake for about another half a mile and will reach an unmarked side trail breaking off to the left towards the lake/waterfall. You can’t really see the waterfall at this point but you will hear it. Follow the unmarked trail a short distance and you’ll arrive at the base of the falls!

Lakewater ripples surrounded by rocky, towering mountains spotted with snow, all under a clear, blue sky — Red Rock Lake

A short waterfall surrounded by pine tree-covered mountainsides — Red Rock Falls

If you’re looking for some more challenging hikes in the St. Mary’s area, check out these: Siyeh Pass Trail; Iceberg Lake Trail

Montana’s Scenic Roads

On our return trip from Glacier, we spent several days driving across the Montana plains on two-lane, state roads. I’ve talked before about my love of back roads, and I strongly encourage people to get off the interstate and check out these state highways.

It can sometimes be a shortcut and it’s almost always a welcome change from the drudgery of the highway. Search for alternate routes to mix the journey up a bit so you aren’t crossing the same areas on the return trip as you traversed on your outbound route. Enjoy the drive that gets you to that vacation spot as part of your vacation.

This eases boredom but it also helps you to better appreciate the local culture and people in the areas you visit. You may be surprised at what you might learn–just pay attention to your fuel gauge and the availability of gas when venturing onto backroads. Also, be aware, that cell signal may be weak-to-nonexistent in many of these areas so be prepared to go old-school when searching for travel info. You may need to resurrect long-forgotten methods of acquiring information: travel books, hard copies of maps, and even phone books can be good resources in these areas.

We saw several missile sites leftover from the Cold War and learned about a sapphire mine from a Local (apparently these types of sapphires are only found in this area). I also had no idea Central and Eastern Montana had so many mountains! This was a pleasant surprise as I thought it was all rolling prairie.

Beartooth Pass and the Chief Joseph Highway

On our scenic trip home we knocked other points off our Vacation Bucket List by enjoying Beartooth Pass and the Chief Joseph Highway; two connecting Scenic Byways in southern Montana and northern Wyoming. Be warned, much of this area is tundra with few trees. This means there is little shelter to be found, so if a thunderstorm blows up (which one did while we were there–complete with small hail!) exercise extreme caution as lightning strikes are an especially dangerous risk in these highly exposed areas. This is also a very, high-altitude region. The Beartooth Highway usually does not open until Memorial Day Weekend (at the earliest).

Click here for a post I wrote on our attempt to navigate the route that time of year.

Red Lodge, Montana

I also highly recommend a visit to the town of Red Lodge, Montana. It was absolutely adorable with its friendly, small-town charm. It caters to summer and winter outdoor sports and is located off of US 212, about an hour south of Billings, at the base of the Rockies. The area is perfectly situated to be used as a “base camp” for whatever adventures you are seeking.