9 “Don’t Miss” Places for Your Vermont and New Hampshire Road Trip

In this post, I review the New England road trip we took through Vermont and New Hampshire during the summer of 2019.

 

3 weeks, 13 states, 5,138 miles, and 2 quarts of oil (FYI, Subarus inhale oil) gives you a grand New England Road Trip!  Because, when you live in Western South Dakota, why wouldn’t you drive all the way to the coast of Maine for summer vacation? 😮😛

In 2019 the Trekkers spent three weeks on a whirlwind tour of the Northeast. We spent the first week visiting with Mr. Trekkers’ family in Connecticut, enjoying some of the old haunts from his childhood.  Then we spent a weekend toodling around Vermont and New Hampshire, and then enjoyed several days at Acadia National Park, in Maine.  We finished with a quick visit with my family in Indiana on the way back. Read on for “Don’t Miss” places for your Vermont and New Hampshire road trip! 

Northern New England Countryside

I love northern New England!  After traveling the crazy highways that snake all around its southern section, you hit the Vermont state line and life seems to slow down a little, again.  You find yourself quickly returning to the small-town charm of country towns; earthy, damp smells radiate from the walls of green trees and ferns in the woods that surround you.  It feels different here… most of the trees are deciduous hardwoods, whereas we’re used to the evergreens more commonly found in the Black Hills (and areas of Colorado that we frequent).  It feels almost like a rainforest compared to the more arid land we’re used to.  It reminded us a bit of the Redwood forests in California (except without the Redwood trees 😛).

“Don’t Miss” sites in Vermont and New Hampshire

Below are some highlights from our whirlwind tour…

Route 100, Vermont:

We traversed much of this scenic byway that spans the majority of the state, from north to south.  Several of the locations listed below were found on or near that road.  Throughout these travels, we enjoyed one of Vermont’s prime attractions, covered bridges, as well.  

Small waterfall trickles down rocks into a rocky pool of water, surrounded by forest and boulders
Moss Glen Falls

A waterfall over rocks landing in a pool at the bottom in the middle of the woods

 

For more pictures of some great waterfalls around New England, check out my friend, Kathy’s blog here.

 

A waterfall over rocks landing in a pool at the bottom in the middle of the woods. Large rocks sit in a pile near the pool of water

Large, covered bridge spans a river
Covered bridge over the Quechee River

Large, covered bridge spans a river

Ben and Jerry’s Flagship Store, Waterbury Vermont: 

We decided we didn’t have time to actually do the factory tour where you can watch how the ice cream is made (though that would have been REALLY cool).  However, we did get ice cream from the official store, and I’ve got a tie-dyed t-shirt to prove it!  We did take the time to check out a portion of the grounds called the “flavor graveyard”.  It was a little weird 🙃 but it was interesting seeing the various flavor options that have come and gone throughout the years.  Check out the website for the factory here

Cold Hollow Cider Mill, Waterbury, VT: 

Just up the road from Ben and Jerry’s is a cool cider mill.  It specializes in fresh-baked, cider donuts.  I thought they tasted more like spice cake, but either way, they were good! Click here to check out the website for the mill! 

The Vermont Country Store, Weston, VT: 

This place was nice.  It kind of reminded me of Wall Drug, in Wall, SD, but was far less immense.  It was definitely a cute place to pick up some local delicacies and check out some cool, retro toys and games from the ’80s, that brought back memories of our childhoods. 😁

Quechee Gorge, Hartford, VT: 

This place was really cool!  The Ottauquechee River cuts through over 100 feet of rock in this area, the result is a GORGEOUS, scenic view.  A hiking trail nearby takes you on an easy hike of less than one mile, to the head of the gorge, where the river is dammed.  This provides a unique view down the length of the canyon. 

The trail also traverses about a mile downhill, the length of the gorge, to where the river emerges from the rock again.  This is a popular swimming area.  Be aware though, as it’s downhill from the main parking lot all the way to the swimming site, you know what that means for the return trip! 😛

Looking through a hole in the trees, a dam in the background narrows into a large waterfall over some rocks
The dam at the head of the Quechee Gorge
Looking down the length of a tree-lined gorge from above. Rocky walls lead to the river far below
This pic gives you an idea of how deep the gorge is
Looking down the length of a tree-lined gorge from above with tree-covered mountains in the background
A view of the gorge from the bridge

Looking down the length of a tree-lined gorge from eye level

Simon Pearce Glass Mill and Store, Quechee, VT: 

Ran using hydroelectric power from the same river that formed the Quechee Gorge, this place was AWESOME!  We were able to watch the artisans blow and shape the glass in the mill, in the basement, while the final product is sold in the store upstairs.  The shop also features a nice restaurant that overlooks the river. 

We decided the creations (even the seconds) were a little too rich for our blood, especially with the risk of breaking them as it was the middle of a lengthy road trip!

A glass blower crafts red-hot, liquid glass in a workshop
A glassblower craftsman at Simon Pearce

Camping at State Parks in Vermont and Maine

Because we enjoy camping, and it helps to keep costs down when on road trips, we spent a few nights at state parks in both Vermont and Maine. The mosquitoes were bad throughout the trip, but that’s to be expected in the middle of the damp woods. 😉

I’m a nature girl, I like critters, even the slithery, skittering, venomous–if we must–kind, as long as we can leave each other alone.  What I can’t abide are mosquitoes.  Seriously, why, just why?  That will be one of the many questions I have for the “Big Guy” someday. 

What purpose do they serve?  Food for other critters?  That’s fine, but why do they have to suck OUR blood, causing welts that itch to high heaven (and are bigger than the critter that left them) that last for days on end, and can even end up infected due to excessive scratching brought on by the extreme itching (I know from experience).  A bug that DOESN’T carry potentially deadly disease couldn’t fill that spot?  I’m just saying. 😛  They say God doesn’t make mistakes but the presence of mosquitoes makes me wonder a bit. 🤔  

The campsites throughout the campgrounds were largely gravel and flat.  They have large stone hearths to use for fires, we aren’t used to that in the Black Hills.  It made me think of the Flintstones. 😂  Most of the sites were large enough they could fit a small trailer/pop-up camper (we just brought the old, trusty, ground tent for this trip).  There were also flush toilets, electricity, and showers (oh my! 😱)  I can’t remember the last time we had those types of “fancy” amenities when camping! 😉 

This may be because it’s been a while since we stayed at a state park.  We’ve gotten used to national forest sites, with their vault toilets (and that’s it). 😋  Other than their more rustic accommodations though, national forests are still my favorite places to camp.

Below are some of the parks we visited:

Coolidge State Park, Plymouth, VT: 

This is a newer park, and it includes buildings from the historical homestead of the 30th President of the United States, Calvin Coolidge.  This was the first place we camped, and the quietest.  Sites were shaded and well-separated from each other.

A tent sits on a wooded campsite
Our campsite at Coolidge State Park
New Discovery State Park, Marshfield, VT: 

This place was cute.  It rained that night, but not till we were nearing the end of our fire logs, so it was a nice sound to lull us to sleep.  There was a weird bird that kept attacking its reflection in the side mirror of my car, and a garter snake got my heart racing when it crawled out of a hole in our fire hearth! 😱  Other than these visitors, though, it was a decent little campground.

Sebago Lake State Park, Naples, ME: 

Funnily enough, I actually completed a writeup about this park, just a few weeks before we visited, for an online job I had at the time!  This was the busiest park we stayed at, with sites that were placed the closest together.  They were nice, and shaded, and allowed you close contact with all your New Yorker neighbors 😋 (we definitely don’t hear the Brooklyn accent much out in Western South Dakota! 😂)  One unique aspect of this area was all the sycamore trees, with their LARGE, scalloped leaves. 

This park sits on the northern shores of the VERY large, Sebago Lake.  It was cold, but refreshing to swim in.  We enjoyed our almost-lakeside campsite.  It was cool watching the full moon rise over the flat, mirrored waters of the lake after dark.

A full moon in the dark, night sky. It is reflected in the dark water of the lake, below
The full moon over Sebago Lake
A small fire in a rocky hearth in a campground
The cool, rock, fire hearth

Camping in Vermont

I love camping!  I love the random, natural experiences you have that you don’t notice cooped up in a house…the sun that dapples through the treetops as water droplets dribble and drip from the still-wet leaves after the rainstorm from the night before…you can see blue sky and stars peeking through the crowns of the trees…the sunbeams filter through the crown of tree leaves and slice through the morning mists that rise from the damp ground…you wake up in the morning to the granddaddy-long-leg who waves at you from his perch on the outside of your tent…

Blue sky through a crown of green trees

Vermont state parks are pretty nice.  They have lean-to’s that can be rented out, which we’ve never seen at developed campgrounds before.  They don’t seem like they would provide the most privacy or protection from the weather–or any critters–as it appeared people just set their hammocks/sleeping gear up in the shelter that has a roof, but only three walls.  We did see several people putting up tarps as a fourth wall.

They’re big on their “ponds” in New England, except many of them are bigger than the “lakes”.  Many are as big as some of the largest reservoirs in the Black Hills.  They may need to work on their wording a bit. 😋

Scenic Drives in New Hampshire

As we’ve already driven several of the main scenic routes through the White Mountains in New Hampshire, this time we chose to try out the northern route (US 2 to Route 16).  As it turns out, this isn’t nearly as pretty as the scenic byways that are comprised of Route 112 and US 302, that traverse areas such as Franconia Notch.  Those areas are GORGEOUS!

We then ventured into North Conway for lunch.  This was our second time visiting this little town.  We realized we had been there almost exactly 10 years ago, shortly before we got married! 

We had attempted to hike the infamous Mount Washington on that trip, but we didn’t make it to the summit thanks to several factors (including a certain blogger leaving breakfast on the side of the mountain 🤮).  I want to come back and try it again though, Tuckerman Ravine looks SO beautiful!  Now that we hike more regularly and are FAR more used to higher altitudes, I’m hoping we’ll be able to handle it a bit better.

Green, tree-covered mountains cloaked in clouds
Mount Washington, lost in the clouds (it’s the peak you can’t see)

Both of the Trekkers visited New Hampshire several times throughout our childhoods and we always really enjoyed it.   We were surprised to note that, on this trip, we both found the woods of southern Vermont to be more welcoming than the rugged forests of northern Vermont and New Hampshire/Maine. (The northern mountains reminded us of the Black Hills so they didn’t seem as much like a vacation. 😋)  They also reminded us of other northern forests that we’ve been to, such as those in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, those in Glacier National Park/northwestern Montana, those in the Big Horns, and those in northern Colorado (such as in State Forest State Park).

Looking for more amazing pictures of the New England mountains? Check out the Rusch to the Outdoors blog!

It got us to thinking about how much has happened in 10 years:  we got married; we moved to South Dakota; there were new jobs for both of us; we bought a house…what will the next 10 years bring?  Good things hopefully!

Next up,  Part 2 of our trip, Acadia National Park

Have you ever been to these parts of New Hampshire or Vermont? Tell me about your experiences in the comments! 

 

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Three pictures: 1) A waterfall over rocks landing in a pool at the bottom in the middle of the woods; 2) Large, covered bridge spans a river; 3) Looking down the length of a tree-lined gorge from above with tree-covered mountains in the background. Pin reads, "9 'Don't Miss' places for your next Vermont and New Hampshire Road Trip"

 

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Bighorn Medicine Wheel in Wyoming

In this post, I discuss an ancient medicine wheel in the Bighorns!

 

There is a prehistoric Medicine Wheel hidden in the northern, Bighorn mountains of eastern Wyoming.  It was built by the ancient ancestors of today’s American Indian tribes.  More than 80 tribes claim the wheel in their oral traditions so it can’t be attributed to any one group or culture, though it’s, obviously, a very sacred site.  

What does the Bighorn Medicine Wheel look like?

This is one of the largest, stone medicine wheels in North America (there are at least 150 spread throughout the continent).  It’s constructed with a center cairn with spokes emanating from it to an outer circle that connects six, smaller cairns that appear to be strategically placed.  

Archeologists aren’t sure of the wheel’s exact age, most estimates date it back at least 800 years, but it could be far older.  Archaeological evidence shows human habitation as far back as 12,000 years in this area!  

The ranger we spoke with stated the six rock cairns that dot the outer portion of the circle are believed to have a celestial purpose, but the exact function remains a mystery–it is thought that they may have been used during vision quests.  The last time the six cairns matched up with celestial markers was at least as far back as the 1700s!

Medicine Wheels are Sacred Sites

Religious ceremonies are still held at the wheel on a regular basis as many tribal members make religious pilgrimages to the site.  Some of the ceremonies involve large groups, while others include only a few individuals–two, small, private ceremonies occurred while we were there.  Anyone with American Indian heritage can participate in a ceremony.  

It’s always enthralling for me to observe religious practices that I’m not familiar with.  I’m fascinated by the emotions you see play out on the faces of the participants, and how descriptive their movements can be.  I find their actions evoke emotions within me as well.  You can actually feel the peace and tranquility emanating from them as they dance, pray, or worship in their own way.  

A tour of the wheel may be delayed if a ceremony is occurring, though they usually don’t last longer than 30 minutes, so please be patient and respectful during this time of worship.  Numerous religious offerings are tied to the fence that rings the site (or are placed within the wheel itself).  Please do not touch or photograph these items directly as they are sacred.  It is also requested that people not take photos or videos of the ceremonies, as they are occurring, to respect the privacy of the participants.  

Where is the Bighorn Medicine Wheel?

The wheel is located on Forest Road 12, off of US 14A, in the northern part of the Bighorns.  It’s about 20 miles from Burgess Junction (where 14A branches off from US 14 to the east) and about 30 miles from Lovell, Wyoming, to the west.

Related posts: Lake Helen, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming; 4 Don’t Miss Sites in the Bighorn Mountains of WyomingWest Tensleep Trail, Bighorn Mountains, WyomingCamping in the Bighorns

The parking lot is a mile-and-a-half walk from the wheel on a graded, dirt road.  The hike isn’t bad, though it is uphill both ways (seriously 😝) and the altitude is over 9,000 feet, so take your time.  The site is also above tree line so bring a hat, water, and sunscreen, and be prepared for the ever-present, Wyoming wind.  It usually takes an hour or so to complete the entire route.  The site is free to visit, though donations are appreciated.  Because this is a sacred site, pets are not permitted and must be left in the parking area.

The only thing that marred the experience was the large, FAA radar placed on the adjoining peak (because none of the numerous, other peaks in the surrounding area, that were a little farther away, wouldn’t have worked?  REALLY?!)  Federal Government, do better! 😤      

Panoramic view of a rocky mountainside. Tree-covered mountains spread in the distance under a crystal clear, blue sky
The incredible view of the Bighorns from the Medicine Wheel site (to the right is the road you hike to reach the wheel)
Small stones on the ground form the center and outer portions of a wheel with stone spokes connecting them
The Medicine Wheel (you can see one of the rock cairns in the foreground to the left)

The Backroads of Wyoming

I’ve suggested before, to always take the scenic route, when time permits.  We enjoyed a good bit of that on this trip!  We started by taking Route 24, west, from where it branches off near the Island Park campground.  We then took Forest Road 408, to BLM Road 1117, on to Hyattville.  

This route is listed in the gazetteer as being Hyattville Road, but we saw NO signs reflecting this.  Similar to what we’ve found in Colorado, even though a road may be listed as a “major connector”, especially in the gazetteer, this could easily mean the road is actually dirt (sometimes wide and graded, other times little more than a narrow, two-track, high-clearance road that I wouldn’t be comfortable taking an Outback on). 😝 

We used three separate maps–the gazetteer, a Bighorns map we picked up at a local, outdoor store, and a road atlas–to gather a–somewhat accurate–estimate of the roads’ actual conditions.  Part of the difficulty was the roads traversed National Forest and BLM land in this area, and each department names and maintains their roads differently.  

Overlooking a rocky cliff with pine trees growing up from below
A view from our backroad trip

The drive was very manageable with Mr. Trekker’s Tacoma (any high-clearance, 4WD vehicle could handle it in good conditions).  There were no steep drop-offs and no, real, technical obstacles like what we’ve encountered on some of the roads in Colorado.  It was also beautiful, ranging from alpine, spruce forests and aspen groves, to dun-colored high prairies dotted with tan and red clay mounds, adorned with the varying greens of the diverse foliage.  Rock-rimmed canyons with their gaping mouths open onto prairie grasses far below, while rocky cliffs of various colors traverse throughout, all with the imposing Bighorns as a backdrop.  

Here is a video I made that showcases the beauty that is eastern Wyoming.

After leaving the Medicine Wheel, we decided we were game to try a few more back roads.  We took another scenic trip, east, on US 14A to Burgess Junction, where we picked up US 14 and took it west.  We took that road to Route 17, another “major connector”, that we then took to Alkali Road/BLM Road 1111/Route 228, back to Hyattville (this is a back way to reach the Medicine Wheel from the south).  

Again, these road numbers and names were listed on the gazetteer and one of the maps–some of these roads didn’t even appear on the Atlas–but were NOT shown on the actual road.  We just trusted the signs that directed us back to Hyattville.  You always need to be flexible when taking back roads, as you never know what kind of obstacles or conditions may cross your path.  I should also note, there was NO cell coverage in this remote location (and GPS can often be inaccurate), so maps are often times your only option–time to go “old school” folks!  

Another road we could have driven was labeled in the Gazetteer as the “Red Gulch, Alkali National Back Country Byway”.  We didn’t actually drive it this time–though we returned at a later date to check out the fossilized dinosaur footprints it leads to! 😯  

The Back Country Byway is more of a two-track, high-clearance path, at least in spots.  I certainly wouldn’t call it a “main road”.  Funnily enough, the roads we took back to Hyattville ended up being in better shape than the back road we brought out from the campground.  They were graded, gravel roads that one could expect to travel 30 – 40 mph on (if the rancher in front of us hadn’t decided a slower speed was better.  Unfortunately, on those roads, that are only about 1.5 lanes wide, passing really isn’t an option unless the person in front of you is feeling charitable and pulls over.  This man didn’t. 😜)  So, we enjoyed a leisurely, scenic stroll through the beautiful Wyoming countryside.  😁  

After reaching Hyattville we took Route R54 (another graded, well-maintained, gravel road) to Ten Sleep and then got to enjoy the, INCREDIBLY beautiful, US 16 east through Ten Sleep Canyon, back to our campground. (Did I mention, almost all of these roads, despite their varying conditions–with the exception of the highways–had the EXACT SAME indicators on the map? 😜)

Peering through the trees across tree-covered mountains out to the dry, high prairie far in the distance

The topography of Wyoming is very unique.  It’s characterized by the towering Bighorns in the northeast, to the Grand Tetons that criss-cross Yellowstone and the Rockies, in the west.  A drier, large, bluff-filled basin sits between Yellowstone and the Bighorns.  

Some parts of the state are prettier than others–while the dry, scrubland that surrounds the mountains can be pretty and green in spring, it usually turns rather drab in the later months.  The basin area is dotted with oil fields and sketchy-looking, government sites with warning signs plastered on the fences, which can be rather intimidating. 😳

Below are some more pics of our scenic drive:

Dry, green meadow with trees and rocky mountains far in the background, under a clear, blue skyWhite, rocky cliffs rise high aboveA dry, scrubland canyon with a dry, high plain in the far distanceDry, grassy meadow with dry, high plains and bluffs in the distanceDry, grassy meadow with dry, high plains and red-rock bluffs in the distanceDry, grassy meadow with tree-covered, white cliffs and dry, high plains and mountains in the backgroundDry, grassy high plains with pine-covered mountains in the background

MOOSE in the Bighorn Mountains!

Earlier that summer, we spent ten days in the Colorado high country during peak season and we didn’t see one moose.  Later that fall, we spent ten seconds in the Bighorn mountains of Wyoming (literally), and TWO moose were waiting to greet us when we arrived at our campsite!  Bighorns for the win!   

Two moose in a field as seen through the trees
Our ungulate friends (this year it was Maggie and Megan)

As I’ve mentioned previously, I’m always surprised at how much this part of Wyoming reminds me of the Colorado mountains.  The scenery and critters are very similar, with the added benefit of being half as long a distance from the Black Hills and FAR less crowded than Colorado. 😉  

If you’re looking for an amazing, historical site to visit in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming, check out the Bighorn Medicine Wheel!

Have you ever visited the prehistoric Medicine Wheel in the Bighorns?  Tell me about it in the comments! 

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Small stones on the ground form the center and outer portions of a wheel with stone spokes connecting them. Pin reads, "A Prehistoric Medicine Wheel in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming"

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7 “Must-See” Colorado Ghost Towns

I review several ghost towns we toured around the Colorado High Country as well as our drive up Independence Pass.

 

The Trekkers LOVE visiting ghost towns! We try to include them whenever possible on our trips.  During our 2018 road trip, we got to check out several awesome ghost towns in Colorado.  

Ghost towns give you a true, visual understanding of how people lived “back in the day”.  I’m a very visual person so this helps me fully appreciate what the lives of the inhabitants of these towns must have been like.  I prefer the towns that are restored, with at least several buildings remaining that you can view.  Sometimes, however, the places that are comprised mostly of ruins allow you to use your own imagination of how they must have appeared in their heyday.

Click here for a list of ALL the ghost towns the Trekker’s have visited around the country!

Below is a list of seven ghost towns we visited in central and western Colorado…

Teller City Ghost Town: 

This was the first ghost town we visited and the one that required the most effort to access.  The townsite is near State Forest State Park, in far northern Colorado, around nine miles south of Gould, on Route 740 (Baker Pass Road).  You reach it by driving on a, somewhat rough, 4WD shelf road. (The Guide to Colorado Backroads† book that I mentioned in a previous post, rates this road as “easy”.  I would rate it as “moderate”.  A high clearance, 4WD vehicle should be all you’d need to access this site in good conditions).  

We didn’t actually complete the 4×4 road all the way to Baker Pass, though we spoke with a local who said it was worth the drive.  Alas, daylight was waning (and the mosquitoes were starting to bite!) 😝

 The way was fairly well-marked and obvious, but be watchful.  The road branched off several times and the correct route was only marked with orange, snowmobile trail markers (this is a snowmachine trail in the winter months).  

An old cabin sits amongst small trees in a grassy, open space. Tree-covered mountains are in the background.

An old, abandoned cabin without windows or a door

One plus with this site is that there’s a designated parking area and then you hike a Nature Trail loop to view the remains of the town.  Not much is left, but you could almost hear the voices of the patrons visiting the busy shops, and smell the dust kicked up by the wagons as they rolled along–what used to be–a bustling Main Street.  

At various places along the trail, markers describe the history of that home or business.  At one of the stops, the words of a young girl who came into town one winter night, via the pass, were noted.  Her description of the twinkling town lights flickering through the evening shadows was incredible.  

Below are a few more pics of the ruins at Teller City (as usual, thanks to Mr. Trekker for several of these):

The ruins of an old cabin sits amongst small trees in an open space. Tree-covered mountains are in the background.
The ruined walls of an old cabin sit in an open space. No roof or door remains. Tree-covered mountains are in the background.
The ruined walls of an old cabin sit in an open space. No roof or door remains. Tree-covered mountains are in the background.

A large, dark hole in the ground is circled by rocks and covered by a wrought-iron cage
An old well pit

Coalmont, Colorado: 

After leaving State Forest State Park, we visited Coalmont on our way to the Flattop Wilderness area.  Only the schoolhouse remains of this dusty hamlet, but from what we could see through the grime-spattered window, it appears to have been restored inside.  It would have been neat to be able to view it in more detail! 

The townsite is located off of Route 14, southwest of Walden, Colorado and can be reached via either Route 24 or Route 26 (they form a half-moon-shaped loop here).  The site is directly off of Route 26.

Old, white-boarded schoolhouse building sits in an arid landscape. Dark mountains are seen far in the background

Remains of an old ranch at Grand Mesa National Forest:

This site is located on top of the mesa, off the Land’s End Road.  It is the remains of a ranch that operated in this area long ago. Several cabins, one of which you can walk inside, and an old livestock corral, have been restored.  They can be viewed on a Nature Trail loop (it is part of a cross-country ski trail in the snowy months).  

A two-story cabin sits amongst tall, green grasses. It is a grey, cloudy day

An old, wooden fence-surround sits in a grassy, open space just outside a deep woods surrounded by tall pine trees
The old corral

Yellow wildflowers in a tall, grassy meadow. An old cabin can be seen down the hill

Pitkin Ghost Town: 

This “living” ghost town is located about 27 miles east of Gunnison Colorado.  Take US 50, east, from Gunnison, then turn left onto Route 76 in Parlin.  

As an aside, we enjoyed several good meals in Gunnison.  We had a wonderful breakfast at the W. Café, and, I can attest that the High Alpine Brewing Company makes great pizza!

Old, freshly-painted, one-story building sits on a plot in town. A statue of a prospector sits out front. The sign over the door reads, "Pitkin Assay Office"

Letters read "Pitkin Hotel" on the glass front of the building. Modern-day trucks sit on the street out front

At about the halfway point on Route 76, you will pass the “living” ghost town of Ohio City. (I call them “living” because some hearty souls are still living in both of these locations!) 

The rain was falling fairly heavily as we passed through Ohio City, so we chose not to stop, but Pitkin should definitely be on your list of places to visit!  It was one of the more “real-feel” ghost towns we toured as it wasn’t crowded with visitors, and enough of the old buildings have been restored that you felt as though you were actually walking down the town’s Main Street.  

The Silver Plume General Store, located on the east side of town at the corner of 9th and State Streets, is a great place to stop for lunch.  We certainly enjoyed our burgers from the outdoor grille! Note: Pitkin is the last chance at civilization if you’re venturing onward to Tincup, Cottonwood Pass, the Alpine Tunnel, or St. Elmo ghost town via Tincup Pass.

We didn’t make it to Tincup on this trip, being that Cottonwood Pass was closed for paving.  We are hoping to, one day, try the Tincup Pass between Tincup and St. Elmo and hike to the Alpine Tunnel.  Another journey for another time, I don’t worry that we’ll be back in Colorado soon!  😁

A two-story building with a belfry on top sits in front of a tree-covered hill. The sign under the belfry reads, "City Hall 1900"
Two old, single-story buildings with false fronts. One reads, "Pitkin Bank". A modern car sits in an alley nearby.
Two old, very small cabins sit so close they appear to connect. One sign reads, "Road Kill Cafe", the other "Stage Stop, Pitkin 1880"
An old, white-clapboard church and steeple

Below is a short video I took of the hummingbirds near the Pitkin Hotel.  I’ve always liked hummingbirds, but I’ve never heard them make this noise outside of Colorado…

St. Elmo Ghost Town: 

Everyone we talked to (and all the guide books we read) told us we HAD to visit St. Elmo, and it was, definitely, worth the visit!

The only disappointment I had with this site is that vehicles are allowed to park in the town itself.  Its spirit seems to be somewhat ruined when there’s a modern Audi parked in front of Town Hall. 😝  Also, they were restoring several buildings while we were there—which I’m sure is necessary and will be wonderful when it’s completed—but it meant that construction equipment was parked along Main Street.  *sigh*  Guess we’ll have to visit another time! 😉 

Two old, single-story buildings that look like they were once shops. One appears weathered, the other freshly-painted. A very tall, rocky mountain can be seen in the background

Two old, small, weathered cabins sit next to the dirt road

As I mentioned previously, if you’re daring, you can reach St. Elmo via Tincup Pass.  If you’re looking for a tamer route, you can do what we did and take the long way.  For this trek take Route 50 east of Gunnison through Monarch Pass (another great view) and turn north onto US 285 at Poncha Springs.  Then take Route 162 west–an out-and-back road (for the less daring among us)–toward the Mt. Princeton Hot Springs resort and on to St. Elmo.  

Near this area, there’s also a turnoff for Hagerman Pass Road to the site of another ghost town, Hancock.  From there, you can hike to the Alpine Tunnel from the east, though it sounded as though the hike is longer and the view isn’t quite as good as hiking from the west side–we chose not to complete the hike at this time due to time constraints and the monsoon-fueled thunderheads that were threatening.  

As I stated previously, since we missed a few ghostly spots this time around, we’ll be putting this area on our “must-visit” list for the future.  It’s always a shame when you visit a location and find out you HAVE to come back to explore further (that happens to us regularly on trips, especially in Colorado…have I mentioned that I enjoy vacationing in this state? 😉)

An old, wooden cabin with two chimneys. Two very tall mountains, one rocky, the other tree-covered, can be seen in the backdrop
Two old, wooden cabins sit amongst the trees
An old, one-story shop that reads, "Miners Exchange, St. Elmo General Store"

Much to the Tranquil Trekker’s dismay (we DON’T feed wildlife) one unique feature of St. Elmo is that visitors are encouraged to feed the WAY-overly-friendly and almost-aggressive local chipmunks. You can buy food for them at the General Store. 😝

The Cascades Waterfall near Buena Vista, Colorado:

After leaving Saint Elmo, on our way east, back to US 285, we stopped at The Cascades.  This is a lovely waterfall that’s just off the side of the road.  It’s a beautiful, peaceful location where you can walk right up to the base of the river that creates a picturesque waterfall in this area as it cascades across boulders–hence the name. 😉  

A creek runs over rocks and down a hill, creating a waterfall amongst the mountains and trees
Water from the creek dribbles over large boulders
A creek runs over rocks, creating a mini waterfall amongst the boulders and trees
A creek runs over rocks and down a hill, creating a waterfall amongst the mountains and trees

Gothic Ghost Town, Crested Butte, Colorado: 

I was a bit disappointed by this town.  The Rocky Mountain Biological Laboratory bought the town and did an exceptional job of restoring many of the old buildings which the lab uses for its work.  This we knew going in… what I hadn’t realized is that the lab has taken over almost the entirety of the townsite.  As it’s now, mostly, all private property, it’s almost impossible to tour around and browse the various buildings. 😒

I’m glad the town is being used for something, and I’m thankful to the lab for helping to save its structures, I just wish the historical features were easier to access.  And a note to the general store in town:  you close by four? In the middle of summer?? On a Saturday???  REALLY?!  Afternoons are a good time for people to eat ice cream you know!  😝😳😉

Sign at the edge of town reads, "GOTHIC site of The Rocky Mountain Biological Laboratory founded 1928"

No trespassing/no pets signs on a wooden fence. Old cabins sit in an open field within the fence. Rocky mountains are in the far background
Signs regarding the lab dotted the entire town 😕

You can reach Gothic by taking Gothic Road, Route 317, north of Crested Butte and the ski village.  You can’t miss it, this is, literally, the only main road going north of town! 😉  This will also lead you to Schofield Pass that I discussed in this post.  

Old cabins sit in front of a rocky mountain. Modern day cars and a construction cone are parked on the dirt street
Old cabins sit in a grassy field in front of a rocky mountain

Modern cars line both sides of the dirt street. Old cabins sit in front of a rocky mountain far in the background
Main Street in Gothic

Old cabins sit in an open field within a wooden fence. Tree-covered mountains are in the background

Old, brown, two-story building. Sign on front reads, "1880 Town Hall"
The General Store with its questionable hours of operation 😝

Old cabins sit amongst short trees with the forest in the background

Independence Ghost Town and Independence Pass:

Independence ghost town is located on Independence Pass (Route 82), around 16 miles east of Aspen, and around 21 miles west of Twin Lakes.  

It’s just east of the peak of the Pass itself, and is, actually, easy to miss.  It’s below the grade of the road and the two parking pullouts are small and not well-marked.  There are, blue, “Places of Interest” signs, but you have to be watching for them.  We actually saw the ruins of the mill, on the other side of the road, first.  

The townsite is located in a valley, along the Roaring Fork River, framed by the towering Sawatch Range on both sides.  

Independence Ghost Town:

This was my favorite ghost town of the entire trip!  It’s easy to access as the site is located directly on Independence Pass.  You actually park at a pullout on the Pass road and then hike out to the site, so no vehicles marred the view. 

The walk into the town site is about one-mile in each direction, on an old, two-track, dirt road. (The hike is pretty easy as there is almost no elevation gain.  Beware though, the town site still sits at about 10,000 feet in elevation.)  You can see the town from quite a ways off, which helps you to imagine what it must have felt like riding a horse or wagon along that route during the height of the town’s life.

This would have been an incredibly beautiful place to live! (Had it not been so isolated and suffered such extreme weather.)

Related Posts:  Guide to Colorado Backroads and 4-Wheel-Drive Trails: Book ReviewThe Best Hidden Gems of Northern ColoradoThe Backroads of ColoradoThe Drive to Crystal Mill in Colorado

The wooden remains of an old structure sit on a hill with a tree-covered mountain in the background
The old mill in Independence, Colorado. (This is the first building we saw to clue us in that we were “there”.)

The wooden remains of an old structure that has no roof. Trees are in the background

A two-track dirt road leads over a small, grassy hill. Old cabins in a grassy meadow can be seen far in the distance with tree-covered and rocky mountains in the background
I don’t imagine this view was much different when the town was thriving

An old cabin sits in a grassy meadow with a tree-covered mountain in the backgroundThe wooden remains of an old structure that has no roof or doors. Trees are in the backgroundThe wooden remains of an old, in-tact structure. Trees are in the backgroundA grassy meadow leads down the hill into a valley. Tree-covered and rocky mountains are in the backgroundThe remains of two old cabins sit on a grassy hill. A tree-covered mountain is in the background.

Independence Pass:

Independence Pass was incredibly beautiful, as well.  This one has been on my Colorado Bucket List for some time and it did not disappoint! (It was also the highest altitude we reached on this trip, maxing out at, just over, 12,000 feet!)  The scenic overlook and hiking area at the top of the Pass offer, almost, 360-degree views of the Continental Divide, which the Pass spans.

Looking down into a grassy, mountain valley. Rugged, rocky peaks and tree-covered mountains stretch to the horizon where they meet a blue sky filled with white, puffy clouds

Sign reads, "Independence Pass, elevation 12,095 feet, Continental Divide"

An analog device sits on a vehicle dashboard. It's dial is pointed to just over 12,000 feet
We finally topped 12,000 feet!

You may have noticed I’ve been enjoying using a Sun Company altimeter† in many of these posts.  It responds to changes in barometric pressure caused by weather as well as air pressure at-elevation, so you may have to recalibrate it a little each day to maintain the most accurate readings.  But, for amateur interest, it’s a fun, portable, way to keep track of changes in altitude–it connects to the vehicle using velcro so it can be easily removed and taken on a hike if you’re so inclined. 

A paved road winds down and around a hill. Rocky, rugged and tree-covered mountains are in the background and line both sides of the road

I made another video of our drive up Independence Pass.  I think my videographer skills got a “little” better with this one! 🤔

If you’re looking for something fun to do this summer, definitely check out the ghost towns of the Colorado High Country! 

Have you visited any of these amazing places?  Tell me about it in the comments!

 

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Four pictures of old buildings at ghost towns and Rocky Mountain passes. Pin reads, "The Ghost Towns of Colorado's High Country"

 

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The Backroads of Colorado

This post outlines our adventures on several Colorado backroads, including some at State Forest State Park and around the Crested Butte area.

 

On our 2018 road trip in the Colorado High Country, we really wanted to improve our 4×4 driving (and navigation) skills.  Fortunately, there are a number of backroads in Colorado that are perfect for this! 

One series of books we found to be incredibly helpful is A Guide to Colorado Backroads.  It’s actually a series of books covering the northern, central, and southern regions of the state.  These provide helpful information on the roads and trails including their difficulty level, equipment needed to successfully complete them, and details on each of the routes’ conditions.  

Below is a listing of the new roads we enjoyed:

Montgomery Pass Road, State Forest State Park

The first road we mastered, the Montgomery Pass Road at State Forest State Park, ended up being the most technical route we attempted on the entire trip. This out-and-back trek is listed as “moderate” in the guidebook.  It was fun, though, definitely, challenging.  A high clearance, 4WD vehicle is required and skid plates are an added benefit–we were VERY glad for them as we scraped across one particular rock.  Several spots even required me to exit the vehicle and play “spotter” for Mr. Trekker to assist him in navigating the obstacles…it was fun!  😁  The road was wide, with room to pass in most spots, and mostly traversed the forest, so, it lacked the stomach-churning shelf roads we experienced on much of the rest of the trip.  

The road ends before it reaches the top of Montgomery Pass, and the final half-mile or so must be completed on foot.  It’s an easy hike (minus the altitude) as the trail is an abandoned forest road.  It was windy at over 11,000 feet, but the incredible views of the Never Summer Mountains and the promise of the 360-degree vista at the top provide motivation despite beleaguered lungs.

Hand holding an analog dial showing a little over 11,000 feet elevation
Made it to the top of Montgomery Pass!

The wildflowers had begun to carpet the surrounding meadows while snow still blanketed portions of the nearby peaks (in early July!)   Another quality of this wilderness area is that we felt like we had the entire mountain to ourselves on a Monday morning, seeing only two other groups for the duration of the excursion.  You can also hike the entire way to the peak from the other side of the mountain.  The trailhead is found off Route 14 on the eastern edge of the park.   

A small, rock cairn in the foreground with a grassy meadow spreading out behind. A spine of grass and tree-covered mountain peaks can be seen in the distance with occasional spats of snow
The view from the summit

Bockman Road, State Forest State Park

We supplemented the adventure above with a side trip down Bockman Road which intersects the Montgomery Pass Road farther down the mountain.  This road was easy, I think my CRV may have been able to handle it if you were careful on a few of the bumpy sections.  It was dirt, but wide enough for two vehicles and mostly graded.  It made for a fun, relaxing afternoon as a bubbling creek accompanied us for much of the trip, as well as countless more wildflowers (have I mentioned the wildflowers are beautiful in Colorado this time of year?) 😉  

Gothic Road near Crested Butte

Probably the most nerve-wracking drive we completed was Gothic Road, from Gothic ghost town to Schofield Pass–I discuss Gothic in this post

The road is in good condition–a sedan could probably negotiate it.  The problem we ran into was that it is a 1 1/2-lane shelf road with a significant drop-off at one side and no barrier–a frequent condition we encountered on Colorado back roads.  

When we were there it was also INCREDIBLY busy; filled with 2-way traffic in addition to hikers and mountain bikers.  Part of the trouble was that we were there on a weekend in July (our fault, it was just the way the trip itinerary worked out).  But the horde of visitors combined with people who are unaccustomed to driving in those white-knuckle conditions made for what felt like a genuinely unsafe situation from time to time.  

From the top of the pass, a dangerous 4×4 road continues on through the acclaimed “Devil’s Punchbowl” to Crystal Mill–one of the worst 4×4 accidents in Colorado history occurred on this road.  We chose NOT to take that route, 😝 but check out this post for the 4×4 adventure we had on Forest Road 314 from Marble to Crystal Mill!

Schofield Pass and Slate River Road

Once we reached Schofield Pass, we completed the loop via Slate River Road (Forest Road 734) through Paradise Divide.  This section was not only FAR quieter and more relaxing, but it was also one of the most scenic drives I’ve ever been on (it made the other half of the loop worth the gray hairs). 😉  

Pine trees frame the rugged slopes of green, tree-covered mountains in the background
Paradise Divide

Showcasing towering mountains donning green meadows, grass-covered avalanche chutes, and streaming rivers fueled by snowmelt, this drive is incredible!  We were fortunate enough to grab one of the last remaining dispersed campsites in this area that was nestled right next to a small canyon.  We fell asleep listening to the water coursing through it that night!

Short, green, tree and grass-covered canyon walls with a small stream/waterfall flowing among them
Waterfall along Paradise Divide
An orange rooftop tent sits on a trailer in front of a truck with an awning. This is in a clearing with tall pine trees surrounding it
Our campsite

Below is a video I took of the Divide.  Be patient with me, my videographer experience is minimal, the road was bumpy, and this was taken on an iPhone.  But…this valley was so INCREDIBLY beautiful, I had to share this with you!  You can see why they gave it the name they did! 😎

The drive from Rifle to Grand Mesa Colorado

Even when not looking for a 4×4 adventure, we learned that travel on Colorado back roads can be an interesting experience.  We drove the back route from Rifle to Grand Mesa National Forest, taking Dry Hollow Road from Silt.  Then we continued, via Route 270, into Colbran and then took Route 121 to enter Grand Mesa the back way.  

The drive was lovely!  The eclectic scenery transitioned from desert-like scrubland in the Rifle area to aspen forest in the higher elevations, then to rolling farmland in the valleys (that reminded us of Pennsylvania) before ending in the spruce forests that comprise the Grand Mesa area.  

Related Posts:  Guide to Colorado Backroads and 4-Wheel-Drive Trails: Book ReviewThe Best Hidden Gems of Northern Colorado, 7 “Must-See” Colorado Ghost TownsThe Drive to Crystal Mill in Colorado

I mentioned earlier that the gazetteer didn’t always differentiate road surfaces well.  We found the regular road atlas (and the 4×4 book mentioned above) gave far better indications of what to expect for the actual conditions of the roads…

…In this situation, these routes were indicated to be “major connectors” (and I’m sure they were for that, extremely rural, area). However, this indication included roads that varied from paved and painted to those that are dirt/gravel, with some being extremely rough due to a washboard surface.  They were, often, also, narrow and winding (where two, full-size vehicles may struggle to pass).  Many also hugged the sides of cliffs on shelf roads.  They offered incredible views but may be alarming to people who aren’t accustomed to those conditions.  

We had a great time, but I note this so people are aware these conditions can make travel more difficult and may require you to budget additional time to complete the drive.     

Green grass and trees in the foreground spreading out to rocky, tree-covered mountains in the background. White puffy clouds on a blue sky
Viewpoint on the road to Grand Mesa from Silt

These portions of our trip were thrilling, nerve-wracking, and challenging.  However you manage to do it, whether it be machine-powered by a 4×4 vehicle or using your own two feet, I’d encourage you to venture out onto these lesser-traveled routes (as you are comfortable, of course).  You’ll see sites and experience adventures that the average person misses on the more well-traveled highways.  It will give you a whole different appreciation for the nature that surrounds us.

Have you ever tried out any of these Colorado backroads?  Tell me about your experience in the comments!

 

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Four pictures of a green, grassy meadow and a dirt road meandering around grass-covered mountains. Also a meadow filled with wildflowers and a lake in the background. Pin reads, "The Backroads of the Colorado High Country" 

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West Tensleep Trail, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming

The Big Horn National Forest, in Wyoming, is a wonderful place to enjoy some secluded time in the woods.

 

The Trekkers LOVE to visit the Bighorn Mountains, in northeastern Wyoming.  Each time we go to this area I re-discover my love for them all over again!  I enjoy that mountain range almost as much as the Rockies.  This is probably because they are very similar with a few wonderful exceptions:  there are fewer people in the Bighorns and the Wyoming wilderness is only a few hours from the Black Hills–rather than the 6 to 8-hour drive to the Rockies.  Traffic is much better too!  😉

The weather in this area (during the warmer months, at least) is usually comprised of blue skies, warm temps, and clear, crisp evenings.  Conditions can change fast though!  The Trekkers have a tradition of camping in the Bighorns over Labor Day Weekend and it isn’t unusual for this area to receive its first significant snowstorm of the year a scant week or so later. 

On this particular visit, we came to hike the West Ten Sleep trail to Mirror Lake. The only downside for this trip was lingering smoke from wildfires in Montana.  When we arrived in Buffalo, Wyoming, on Friday evening, you could barely make out the mountains through the smoky haze. 

If you’ve never been there, Buffalo is basically nestled into the eastern base of the Bighorns, similar to how Rapid City is nestled into the eastern base of the Black Hills.  If you’ve never been to either locale, well, let’s just say you normally can’t miss the mountains, they’re like, right there!  😜  Also, you need to plan a visit!!!

Where is the West Tensleep Trailhead?

You will find the trailhead at the end of Route 27 North.  The road basically ends at West Tensleep Lake and the trail continues along the Tensleep Creek from there.  Route 27 branches off of US 16 just east of the B-E-A-Utiful Tensleep Canyon and just west of Meadowlark Lake and the Meadowlark Ski Lodge.

You should note that Route 27 is often closed to regular vehicles during the snowy season, which is lengthy in this part of the country, as it becomes a snowmobile trail.  Other times of the year this dirt road can become rugged (in snowy or muddy conditions, even if it’s open) and a 4WD or high-clearance AWD vehicle may be able to handle it better.

Hiking the West Tensleep Trail to Mirror Lake

That Saturday dawned clear and beautiful–we were thankful for a reprieve from the smoke that day–so we hiked West Tensleep Trail (Trail #65) to Mirror Lake.  This trail can go as far as Twin Lakes, though that is a 12-mile hike in each direction.  We opted to stop at Mirror Lake (at about the halfway point), but the full trail would be ideal for an overnight backpacking trip.  This moderate trek is beautiful and accented with stream crossings, sprawling meadows, and a few waterfall views.  It is well-marked and wide in most places and not overly difficult.  What makes it strenuous at times is the altitude (it reaches close to 10,000 feet in places) though the views of the surrounding summits are worth it!

Related posts: Lake Helen, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming; Camping in the Bighorns; Bighorn Medicine Wheel in Wyoming; 4 Don’t Miss Sites in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming

The gurgling creek accompanies you most of the way creating an iconic, mountain experience.  The neighboring stream and the craggy peaks towering nearby especially reminded me of hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park. 

A stream runs through a forest
West Tensleep Trail

A creek meanders through a narrow meadow with pine trees lining both sides

A trail meanders through a rocky meadow. A large, rocky mountain can be seen in the background.

Mirror Lake!

Mirror Lake is a beautiful, alpine lake that mirrors the sky and adjacent cliffs when calm (likely where it gets its name!) and makes a prime lunch spot before turning back or continuing on to Twin Lakes.  Usually, we enjoy peaceful solitude in this region, but this time it was quite “crowded” (we saw 5 – 10 other groups on the same trail–that’s crowded in the Bighorns!)  Apparently, we weren’t the only ones looking to escape the 90-degree heat of the lower elevations that weekend!

A woman sits looking out over the dark, smooth water of Mirror Lake surrounded by forest. A tree-covered mountainside is in the background.
Mirror Lake
Mr. Trekker stands on a cliff edge with his back to us, looking out over the mountain vista. Tree-covered mountain slopes are in the background.
Just a man and his mountains

Island Park Campground, Bighorn Mountains

We stayed at the Island Park campground and our campsite was located on the fringe of the national forest, overlooking a marshy, grassy valley.

Don’t be afraid of the lesser-developed national forest campgrounds.  They are spectacular, though you do need a tolerance for “roughing it” a bit if you’re tent camping (while potable water is often available in the “on” season, pit toilets are regularly all that is offered).  If you’ve got an RV this may not be an issue (and the “developed” campgrounds can often accommodate RVs).  These sites are usually more off the beaten path so they tend to be quieter, more enjoyable, and may provide more wildlife viewing opportunities.

Moose in the Bighorns!

An added bonus that made this weekend laudable was the “visitors” we received each evening (and most mornings).  If you’ll recall, in a previous post, I mentioned State Forest State Park in north-central Colorado had the best moose-viewing opportunities we’d ever seen…until this trip! 😁  A single cow and another momma and her baby visited us at least once a day the whole weekend.  One evening a large bull also graced us with his presence. 

This campground was the perfect place to view moose as they happily gorged on the willow branches that dotted the boundary.  We named them Maggie, Molly, Matilda, and Marvin (they’re moose, obviously all their names have to start with “m”! 😉)  Marvin kept his distance but the three ladies ventured right up near the campsites if people were quiet enough and gave them their space.  It was an incredibly beautiful, (dare I say tranquil?) site to behold.

A cow and baby moose walk through a meadow with a stream running through it. The forest creates a backdrop.
Maggie and Molly

I’ve always been fascinated by moose, perhaps because they’re one of the only critters that aren’t native to the various regions I’ve lived in.  They’re slightly odd-looking creatures (though cute too), and while they seem like they would be awkward clodhoppers 😂, with their large bodies –especially the males–they’re actually quite graceful when they run through wetlands or swim across streams.  They seem like big cows but be warned, they ARE wild animals that can be quite dangerous and aggressive if provoked (especially the mothers protecting their babies or the males during the rutting season).  Usually, if you leave them alone and give them the respect they deserve, they’ll offer you the same consideration.

Note: Moose are NOT afraid of dogs and they have been known to kill dogs. PLEASE, keep your dogs leashed and fully under control in Moose Country. (Also, the Forest Service can and will ticket you for “harassing wildlife” if they feel you’re allowing your dogs to bother the moose.  Always remember, this is at the ranger’s discretion, it doesn’t matter if you agree that harassment was occurring or not… 

A cow moose is seen eating willows just a few feet from a tent!
Oh, hello! (you can see how close she got to the campground!)

West Tensleep Lake

Sunday we canoed West Tensleep Lake surrounded by the imposing peaks of the Cloud Peak Wilderness (and only slightly marred by lingering smoke).  This is a small lake but it’s no-wake so it’s ideal for canoeing, kayaking, and wake-boarding (just give your fellow fishermen space to enjoy their activities, as well.) 

The dark, rippling waters of West Tensleep Lake with rocky mountains looming through the haze in the background
West Tensleep Lake, you can see the Cloud Peak Wilderness area looming through the smoky haze

We also attempted to reach East Tensleep Lake via Forest Road 430.  While Mr. Trekker had fun practicing his 4×4-ing skills we decided the road was a little more than we wanted to tackle that day so we only traveled about halfway.  We enjoyed beautiful views throughout, however. (Check out this post for info on our return trip to that lake!) 

A creek runs through a meadow scattered with trees. Mountains can be seen looming through the haze in the background.
Off Forest Road 430

The road parallels Tensleep Creek which offers countless fishing opportunities.  It also crosses several expansive meadows providing prime disperse-camping opportunities (this is national forestland so dispersed camping is allowed, just follow all local regulations pertaining to the use of fires).  There are also ample opportunities for on and off-trail hiking.

Busy Bee Cafe, Buffalo, Wyoming

Monday morning dawned smoky once again as we packed up to head for home.  We ended our trip by enjoying a well-earned breakfast at one of our favorite local haunts, the Busy Bee Cafe in Buffalo!  This small diner was thrust into the spotlight thanks to Craig Johnson’s Longmire series that is based in this general area (and its reputation is warranted).

Below are some more pictures from our wonderful weekend (as always thanks to Mr. Trekker for a few of these):

IMG_2512
Smoky sunrise
IMG_2494
Bridge over Tensleep Creek

IMG_2493

Have you hiked the West Tensleep Trail, or visited Mirror or West Tensleep Lakes?  Tell me about your experiences in the comments!

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3 pictures: 1) A creek meanders through a narrow meadow with pine trees lining both sides; 2) The dark waters of West Tensleep Lake with rocky mountains speckled with pine trees in the background; 3) A trail meanders through a rocky meadow. A large, rocky mountain can be seen in the background. Pin reads, Take a Hike on the West Tensleep Trail, Bighorn Mountains"

 

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Lessons Learned on a Road Trip

Final thoughts on our 2017 road trip.

 

In case you haven’t figured it out by now, I LOVE to travel and I LOVE road trips.  The freedom of the open road; the excitement of not knowing what you’ll find around the next corner; the varying beauty of the ever-changing landscape; the unique individuals you encounter along the way.  For my final “2017 Summer Trip” post, I thought I’d offer a compilation of the various thoughts/observations I had, and lessons learned while trekking across the country this summer.

 Road Trip across The Great Plains: 

I’m always pleasantly surprised at how lovely I find western Nebraska to be with its rugged badlands and rolling prairies.  As I always assumed all of Nebraska to be flat, I didn’t expect to enjoy it more than Kansas.  Although its seas of green and brown crops (and cows!) has a beauty in its own right, I actually found western Kansas to be boring as it was “flat-as-a-pancake” flat–perhaps the beauty of the corn belt is lost on me having grown up surrounded by it. 😇  Both states showcased “horizon-to-horizon” blue skies and incredibly friendly people.  The country roads lined with upside-down boots planted on fence posts accentuated the iconic scene.

A pine forest with mountains in the background, also a blue sky with clouds
The moose observation point at State Forest State Park

Unfortunately, the Plains aren’t comprised solely of simplistic beauty.  Many of the small towns we encountered were incredibly run-down with boarded up store windows on their main streets and lack of development.  They just felt depressed.  Many of these places appeared as though they’ve been languishing for decades.  They’re either too remote, too small or they lack much impact on the greater country so they are forgotten and left behind.  One can imagine the people living there may start to feel the same way. 

Traveling through these areas helped me to understand an often misunderstood portion of our population.  In recent months, some people have asked, “how did we get here?” (politically speaking).  For me, spending time in these downtrodden areas offered an explanation.  It’s understandable that distressed people flock to anything that appears to promise relief from what has become the unfortunate norm.

Similar to politics that smell to high heaven, let’s talk about feedlots! 😉  The smell…the sheer size—thousands of head of cattle corralled in pens as far as the eye can see–the smell. 🤥  I’ve had minor experiences with these while traveling around the country in the past but never to the extent that we encountered on this trip.  Wow…did I mention the smell?  Not only are they immense, but the odor emanating off a feedlot on a 90-degree day is something to behold!  I thought the pit toilet we encountered at State Forest State Park was bad! 😝  I almost felt bad for the poor bovines, being fattened for slaughter…and then I’d catch a whiff trailing on the breeze of someone grilling in their backyard and think, “mmmmm…steak…” 🤤

Related Posts:  10 “Don’t Miss” Places for your Great Plains Road Trip11 “Don’t Miss” sites in Colorado5 “Don’t Miss” Places for Your New Mexico Road Trip 

Scenic Drive through New Mexico: 

My memory of this state will always be of heading off into an endless expanse of desert punctuated by scrub brush and beautiful mountain mesas; under the watchful gaze of a buzzard poised on an electrical pole; as old telegraph wires frame the railroad that accompanies you on your journey.  I expected the state to be desolate, but it felt even more rural than South Dakota, and that’s saying something!  I also fell in love with a pink, blooming, cactus bush we encountered along the roadside that Google informs me is a “cane cholla cactus”.

I’ve mentioned this in a previous post, but I never expected to see so much rain in this state.  Isn’t it supposed to be a desert? 🤔  We saw rain each of the five days we spent there and regularly experienced “sunshowers”—when a cloud would darken the sky and then rain would pelt your windshield as the sun returned.  I certainly didn’t expect to see temps in the 50s (in rainstorms) in New Mexico that time of year!

A green meadow with snowy mountains in the background
The Rockies!

The drastic change in ecosystems between the northern and southern portions of the state was stark.  I found the south to be depressing with the hot, dry, desert that was permeated by cracked earth.  As you traveled north you quickly returned to almost a prairie-like scrubland.  This area reminded me of northeastern Wyoming.  The grass was such a verdant spring green color that it felt like going back in time to early spring, even though it was the first week of June.

Lessons Learned on the Road: 

As we drove past a rockslide on I-25 that had closed both westbound lanes, I couldn’t help but be amazed by the power of Nature and the fact that, even in 2017, we don’t really control it, we just react to what it throws at us.   It was encouraging to see how it carries on.  As an example, when the pines die from disease or fire, the aspen/birch trees shoot up to replace them.  It may take a couple of decades, and it may never be “the same” again, but Nature can’t truly be contained.  As can be seen in the beautiful aspen groves, this change doesn’t have to be a bad thing!

New Mexico has a unique landscape, Colorado has unique people  

–We met some very interesting characters on our jaunt around the Rocky Mountain state, but everyone was friendly and seemed to be good-hearted.  Sitting in a parking lot at a state park, a lady walked up to my window and accosted me with, “so…what do you think?”  No “hello” or pleasantries.  I was like, “uh, about the park?”  She started laughing.  As it turns out, she wanted my personal opinion of my Outback, which I then happily gave her!

–As we were talking with the kindly elderly volunteers at a southern Colorado Welcome Center, another verbose local engaged us in conversation regarding made-up cowboy names for our dog–who wasn’t there.  (Another patron had brought a friendly dog into the store which initiated the whole conversation.)

–There was the wisened cowboy who closely resembled a certain “Jolly Old Elf”  (on holiday?) who was playing the fiddle at a rest stop (he was quite good!)

Dry meadow landscape with snowy mountains in the background
More of the beautiful Rocky Mountains!

–We also spotted a VW van full of twenty-something “Hippies” at a gas station (it was a very iconic site).

–Then there was the man who “followed” us from Mesa Verde to Ridgeway State Park.  He was recognizable because he used no tent, choosing only to sleep in a bivvy bag out in the open, under the stars.  This made him memorable and was probably the only reason I noticed him (I’m not sure he noticed us).  He also just happened to be at campsites near ours at both parks.

Random Musings:

–I was heartened by all the solar panels we saw that appeared to be used privately as well a commercially.  We also saw countless stretches of land accented by wind turbines.  Regardless of any official policies that may or may not be put in place by local/state/federal governments, these sights encouraged me that the country as a whole has turned a corner and is “going green”. 

An exception to this would be the farming of cattle in arid areas.  We saw quite a bit of watering of pastureland to provide food for the cows.  I couldn’t help but marvel at what appeared to be the absurdity of it.  Driving through land that is naturally arid and seeing water being used to keep grass green when it naturally wouldn’t be.  I couldn’t help but think, “what’s the point?”  I grew up on a small farm and I, in no way, wish to shirk people the joy of that lifestyle or to run them out of their livelihood, but I do believe in the principle of “Work Smarter, Not Harder”.  It just seems that we should stop fighting Nature.  As we feel more effects from climate change these struggles could become even more pronounced.   Let’s make the land productive by working with it and letting it work for us.  If there’s not enough water naturally to keep grazing land for cows in a given location, perhaps it’s time to initiate a new crop there that thrives in (and is preferably native to) a dry climate.

–The regular appearance of “roadside tables” accompanied us along our route, and we enjoyed them very much!  They make very convenient lunch stops,  offering space for humans and our 4-legged companions to stretch our legs.  We have also found picnic lunches to be more relaxing for the ease of stopping they afford.   They offer more healthy food opportunities, they allow you to enjoy the outdoors more, and they’re cheaper than stopping at restaurants (fast food or otherwise!)

A creek flows down a rocky ravine, a small bridge crosses it
Lovely view of a stream flowing through Telluride, CO

–One fun activity I’ve found as you start racking unique road trips under your belt is to compare how similar various areas of the country feel.  Many of the mountain vistas we encountered in the Colorado Rockies reminded us of views we saw on previous trips to Glacier or Yellowstone National Parks

As we descended out of the Sacramento Mountains westward, heading into Alamagordo, New Mexico, I was reminded of the Black Hills.  The low mountains sporting the drier, ponderosa pine forest made me feel like we had returned home.  Western Colorado reminds me of Southern California with the desert/scrubland.  I had no idea how dry it is.  I knew the southern portion would be dry but I assumed the northern portion (east and west) would be wet and foresty, like Rocky Mountain National Park.  Out near Grand Junction, it was pure desert, which reminded me of nearby Utah and the Moab area.

–One unique aspect we had not seen before was several miles-long trains, just sitting on the tracks that paralleled the highway.  I got the impression their stay was intended to be long-term as there was a break in the line at EVERY SINGLE crossing we came across to allow vehicles to pass.  I can’t imagine how much work it took to get that in place!

–This trip helped us to really appreciate how spoiled we are living in the Black Hills.  Beautiful campgrounds are plentiful that cater to RV’s and “tenters” alike; fires are usually allowed in campgrounds (unless the fire danger is high); firewood is easily available; the weather is frequently lovely (any time of the year); and, smoky days notwithstanding, we’re regularly blessed with truly blue skies (air pollution is low here as is the haze you find in numerous other areas of the county).  Although somewhat isolated, we have access to many opportunities usually found in larger cities while still being able to enjoy a small-town air.  We’re also blessed to have areas that are thriving and changing, rather than falling victim to the passage of time.  (All that being said, while it’s a nice place to visit, this is an AWFUL place to live and NO ONE should move here). 😉 😇  

To conclude, I truly feel a road trip is one of the best ways to experience the diverse cultures that make up the “melting-pot” population of our great country.  There are things to learn from every region of this great land and the only way to truly appreciate it or understand it is to experience it!  So get out there!

What lessons have you learned from road-tripping around the country?  Tell me about them in the comments! 

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11 “Don’t Miss” Sites in Colorado

Our adventures in Colorado on our 2017 road trip.

 

We spent the second week of our 2017 Road Trip enjoying 11 Don’t Miss Sites in Colorado.  That state is, by far, one of my favorite locations in the entire country to visit (and we’ve seen the 48 Continental US States!)  Its beauty is indescribable and pictures don’t truly do it justice. 

The following is a rundown of the highlights of our tour around the state.  Thanks again to Mr. Trekker for some of the pictures!

Trinidad, Colorado

Trinidad is an old-school, Western town in far Southwestern Colorado, only about 15 miles from the New Mexico border.  It’s a cute little community that’s been well-maintained and has seen some modern updates in recent years.

I’m still adjusting to the whole “pot legalization thing” in Colorado. 😂  It’s not my fault, I was a DARE child of the ’90s, I grew up being taught that it was bad (of course this was by the same people who also taught us that Pluto was a planet–and people wonder why I have a skeptical nature!)  Then there’s the issue where it’s legal in the state but not in National Parks within that state because that’s Federal land and it’s still illegal Federally.  Like every good Libertarian, I’m willing to tolerate it but *sigh*, does this make anyone else’s brain hurt?

The next day, we headed West from Trinidad on Route 160, bound for Mesa Verde National Park!  12 years ago we visited the park and parts of Western Colorado on our very first road trip, so it was cool going back.  Some of it we remembered, but it had been so long that there was plenty that we were seeing again “for the first time”. 

Related Posts:  10 “Don’t Miss” Places for your Great Plains Road TripLessons Learned on a Road Trip; 5 “Don’t Miss” Places for Your New Mexico Road Trip 

Having just recently survived a bout with an aggressive flu, I was still not my best self at this point, though, as we were entering some beautiful country we wanted to do a little sightseeing.  The first pass we arrived at (and the first overlook) we stopped to take some pictures.  I stepped out of the car, took one step on the unsteady gravel in my flip-flops, and skidded to my knees.  The fall left a lovely road rash in its wake (because this trip just hadn’t been adventurous enough!) 

At first, I figured it was nothing, till I looked down and saw red rivulets running down my leg *sigh*.  So, back to the car, we went, with Mr. Trekker coming at me with the first aid kit.   Unfortunately, it only had alcohol swabs in it and we were FAR from any modern bathroom with water and soap.  Needless to say, Mr. Trekker was NOT my favorite person that day!  But, kudos to him, he bandaged me up well (albeit painfully) and I now only have a minor scar to show for my misfortune. 😝

Mesa Verde National Park: 

This unique park showcases cliff dwellings from the civilizations who lived there thousands of years ago.  Some you can view from overlooks, and some you can actually tour (self-guided and ranger-led).  They’ve also got a great campground with spectacular star-gazing opportunities. 

Our first trip to the park was one of my first camping experiences out West where there’s far less light pollution.  I remember being astounded at the light show the night sky put on (and that’s coming from a girl who grew up on an Indiana farm).  It was on my first visit to this park that I fell in love with Colorado and “the West”.  I didn’t know then that in six years I’d become a “Westerner” myself! 

Unlike many of the national parks (such as Rocky), the campgrounds have modern bathrooms—read, flush toilets, and showers.  I’d recommend at minimum a 2-day stay to really get the most out of the park.

A dirt path traverses a steep hill covered in green, sage grass with a brown, rock wall towering above.

Expansive view of a tree-covered, rocky mesa. More grass and tree-covered mesas are in the background with mountains making up the far background.

A dead tree sits on the side of a cliff with rocky, tree-covered mesas and mountains in the background, all under a blue sky.

Rocky ruins of an ancient residence sit in a slot in the cliff wall. Tree-covered rocky slopes are above and below the ruins.
Cliff dwelling
Dry canyon with sage brush and trees covering the canyon walls
Navajo Canyon

Route 550, the Million Dollar Highway: 

On our first trip to this area, we stumbled upon this highway accidentally, completely unprepared for what we were about to experience (it was just the most accessible option to get us where we wanted to go).  The second time around we knew what we were in for…and were still awed. 

Route 550, in western Colorado, runs north to south between Grand Junction and Durango.  It is called the Million Dollar Highway because it is so beautiful it offers million-dollar views as it traverses many mountain passes.

If you’ve never traveled this route, I STRONGLY recommend it, though I’d suggest navigating the road from south to north starting in Durango.  This ensures your car is on the inside of the sharp turns the majority of the time. If you’re coming from the north you will find yourself frequently perched along cliff edges with nothing between you and the gaping maw of the canyon below than some thin oxygen (there are no guardrails the majority of the drive as the snowplow drivers need space to push the snow off the cliffs in the winter months). 

If you can handle the drop-offs, this drive is a must!  This area is referred to as the “Switzerland of America” because its incredible mountain vistas rival those found in the immensely beautiful, European country. 

I can testify the views here rival those we saw in Glacier National Park on the Going to the Sun Road (though these are more accessible, depending on your location). Also, this road is open all year, weather permitting.

The most popular portion of the drive (between Durango and Ouray) is less than 70 miles in length, but plan for it to take several hours (that was our big mistake the first go-around).  It’s a slow drive, in some areas the suggested speed limit on the curves is only 10 – 15 mph (and trust me, they aren’t joking).  It can be slower if you find yourself traveling behind larger, slower-moving vehicles. 

The most intense (and most beautiful) portion of the route runs the 25 miles between Silverton and Ouray.  Stops are frequently caused by construction in the summer months as workers are constantly fighting the ongoing battle with natural erosion.  Rockslides are also common (as well as avalanches in the winter). 

This drive can be frightening for us acrophobes with its steep drop offs but the immensely beautiful views are worth it!  There’s plenty of skiing, 4×4 trails, hiking, camping, rafting, and a slew of other activities available in this corner of Colorado, so be sure to put it on your “must-see” list.

Green, mountain valley leading to snow-covered mountains in the background.

Tree-covered mountain sides in the foreground, snow covered, rocky mountains in the background.

Telluride, Colorado: 

Telluride was about what I would expect from a ski town (the Trekkers are uncoordinated and therefore not downhill skiers).  It was lovely, though we were a little early for the summer season so the upper roads weren’t clear of snow or open yet.  We walked down the road to view a staple of the town, Bridal Veil Falls.  The road up to it was open for hiking, but as I still wasn’t at my best we decided to skip that option this trip.  Instead, we opted for lunch at Brown Dog Pizza, a local joint where I can honestly say I had the best cheese calzone I have ever eaten, hands down. 

The ricotta cheese seemed as though it had been whipped into an airy froth.  I’m no food connoisseur, but it was incredible.

Peering through a frame of spring-green trees, a tall waterfall cascades over a cliff with snow and tree-covered mountains in the background.
Bridal Veil Falls

Ouray, Colorado (pronounced U-Ray): 

The drive into town from the south is one of the most beautiful views I’ve ever seen.  THIS I remembered from 12 years ago.  You descend from the harrowing Million Dollar Highway and this small oasis of civilization opens up before you in the valley, beckoning you down from the peaks. (If you’ve seen the show “The Ranch” on Netflix, this town is the one used in the opening credits).

Ridgeway State Park: 

Ridgeway State Park has one of my favorite campgrounds we visited on the entire trip  (part of the reason we spent three days there!)  It’s located just north of Ridgeway on Route 550 (north of Ouray, so out of the peaks).  They have a lovely, shaded, tent-camping area that’s back off the road, complete with level, graded tent sites, modern restrooms (and showers!), all surrounded by cedar trees. 

This brings me to another point.  Apparently, it’s perfectly legal to smoke pot in Colorado State Parks, but don’t you dare hang a hammock from a cedar tree!  I’m sure there is a good reason for this due to the risk of damage to the trees, and I’m all about protecting nature, but this just seemed to be a bit of a misalignment of priorities to me! 😝

The park surrounds a picturesque reservoir set against a backdrop of snow-capped Rockies to the east.  Its location makes it an ideal base camp for numerous day trips and activities. 

Sunset. Dark silhouettes of trees in the foreground with a lake and dark silhouettes of mountains in the background.
Ridgeway State Park
Green trees and a lake in the foreground, tree-covered mountains behind with snow-topped, rocky mountains in the background
It was so strange to look to the east and see the Rockies

Green trees in the foreground frame snow-covered mountain peaks in the background

True Grit Film Sites

The park also happens to be near the filming location of the original western, True Grit (the one from 1969 with John Wayne, not the new version).  If you’re a good enough detective there are numerous filming sites you can locate in this area (though please be aware, many of these areas are located on private land and you are trespassing if you travel on them without the owner’s permission.  Please be respectful of private property!)  Click here for some help finding the sites!

We were able to view Mattie Ross’ Ranch, Courthouse Mountain, Chimney Peak, and the meadow where the shootout scene was filmed, without difficulty.  The last three can be found off of Route 8 (to reach this travel east from Route 550).  You’ll reach The Meadow about ½ mile before the summit of Owl Creek Pass.  Courthouse Mountain and Chimney Peak are visible from The Meadow and Sleeping Rock is located at the summit of the pass. 

Two large rocks sit leaning on each other amongst trees in the forest.
Sleeping Rock (the rock Mattie Ross slept on in the 1969 version of True Grit)
Green meadow surrounded by trees with early, spring-green leaves. A tall, chimney-like mountain and a box-like mountain sit side-by-side in the background.
Courthouse Mountain and Chimney Peak

Mattie Ross’ Ranch is located off of Last Dollar Road which is found off of Highway 62 (the road from Ridgeway to Telluride).

Several ranch buildings (barns, an old house) sit in a field behind fences. A grassy hill rises in the background.
Mattie Ross’ ranch
Green meadow surrounded by trees with early, spring-green leaves.
Deb’s Meadow (where the final shootout scene was filmed)

Grand Mesa National Forest: 

Grand Mesa National Forest is another “must-see” location in the mountains east of Grand Junction.  It’s primarily used for cross-country skiing and snowmobiling in the winter months.  It’s got some great campground/fishing/hiking opportunities as well, but we were, unfortunately, too early in the season to really take advantage of these options.  The hiking trails weren’t yet open as there were still feet of snow drifted on them in some places. Click here for more info on our return trip to Grand Mesa! 

During the peak of summer, this would be a prime place to escape the heat though, the day we were there it was near 90 in the closest town on the valley floor and it was in the ’40s, and raining/snowing large glops on us at the summit.

A snowy field with gray, cloudy skies
Snow on the summit, this was June 6th ya’ll!

Rifle/Rifle Falls, Colorado: 

We spent our final hotel stay of the trip in the small town of Rifle, Colorado.  This is an adorable, little town with an awesome state park!

Rifle Falls State Park was absolutely beautiful.  It was the only place I’ve ever been where you can traverse walkways that stick out over the TOP of the falls!  The caves at the bottom were picturesque as well (and provided a cool respite from the summer heat).

Three small, short waterfalls cascade over rocks covered by trees into a pool of water surrounded by green grass
Rifle Falls
A side view of a waterfalls cascading over rocks covered in trees. A smaller falls is in the background
A different view of the falls

State Forest State Park: 

$20/night for a campsite; going several days with no indoor plumbing (or showering); a DISGUSTING pit toilet (seriously, it was an upside-down pail sitting over a stinky hole in the ground); BUT…eating dinner while a cow moose and two calves eat theirs, in a field, a few thousand yards away with the Rockies as a backdrop…PRICELESS!!! 

We spent the last three nights of our trip at State Forest State Park which is renowned for its moose sightings (many were re-introduced here back in the 90s.). The park actually claims to be the “Moose Viewing Capital of the World!” 

It definitely offered the best moose sightings we had ever experienced…until our Labor Day camping trip in the Big Horns later that year…you can read about that here!

Tall, snow-peaked, rocky mountains with pine trees and grass in the foreground.
This view reminded us of the Garden Wall at Glacier NP.
A tent on grass, surrounded by trees in the foreground. Rocky, snow-topped mountains glowing a light pink in the sunset in the background
Alpenglow over the Western Rockies (Rocky Mountain National Park and the Never Summer Mountains are basically due east from here, right over those mountains.)
A lake, surrounded by pine trees with a rocky moutain with spots of snow in the background
Ranger Lakes
Green grass field with pine trees in the background. Three large, dark, shapes that appear to be moose are emerging from the trees. Mountains dotted with snow are in the far background
Moose from the campsite

CLOSE ENCOUNTER of the Mountain Lion Kind!!!

The final night of our trip I had a true close encounter (at least I think I did, it was dark and it was over fast!)  It was late and we were the only people still up in the half-full campground.  Our campsite was perched on a hill backed by the forest and fronted by a lake. 

The first night, we spied a moose family skirting the campground using a gully to get to the lake for their evening drink, so we knew it was a popular thoroughfare for the local wildlife.  We were waiting for the fire to burn down and out of the corner of my eye, I spotted movement in the empty campsite across the road (maybe 30 yards away and downhill from our site).  At first, I thought it was a deer I had seen meandering around earlier that evening…and then I realized the “deer” had a long tail…

Interesting side note, many stories I’ve heard of people spotting mountain lions start with, “I thought it was a deer till I realized it had a long tail…” 😮

…then I thought it was a dog from one of the neighboring campsites, but I was pretty sure he was in the tent with his family…and the creature I spotted didn’t move like a dog…

Its movements were stealthy, fluid, and sleek; beautiful actually.  I couldn’t tear my eyes away.  It almost glided across the ground.  It reminded me of watching a cat jumping onto a high shelf when you’re sure any minute it will send objects flailing into space but instead it glides gracefully around them. 

It was visible for only a few seconds, once it saw me it hightailed it out of there (which is exactly what we WANT wild animals to do!), and I wasn’t able to get Mr. Trekker’s attention quickly enough for him to see it.  We looked for tracks the next morning and didn’t find any but the ground was very dry and hard so this wasn’t a surprise.  I can’t prove it but…I think I saw my first mountain lion that night (that’s my story and I’m sticking to it! 😉)

Oregon Trail Ruts, Guernsey, Wyoming: 

On the last day of our trek, we stopped for lunch in Guernsey, Wyoming at the Oregon Trail Ruts State Historic Site.  There we viewed wagon wheel ruts left forever engraved on the landscape by the pioneers traveling the Oregon Trail. 

You could almost hear the lowing of oxen, the clanking of household items, and the creaking of the wagons as they slowly made their way across the prairie.  You could almost smell the rank odor of animal and human sweat mixed with the constant cling of dust stirred up by the plodding of the animals’ hooves. 

It was humbling to think that we traveled almost 3500 miles on our two-week road trip, crisscrossing across eight states and visiting countless places in our air-conditioned, all-wheel-drive car, with a suspension that gently glides across any bumps in our path (on the paved or graded gravel roads we drove on).  Whereas these people traveled thousands of miles in a wagon train, a trip that took MONTHS as they slowly crept their way across the bumpy, muddy, rutted, rock-strewn ground, and lived under constant threat of death by exposure, disease, or attack. 

When I got sick we drove five minutes to the local Urgent Care, it took maybe an hour to get seen, then we went to the Walgreens across the street for medicine and I was back in the hotel room on the road to recovery 20 minutes later.  Back in the days of the wagon trains the same ailment likely would have meant DAYS of misery as the best of potential outcomes.

Two parallel ruts in the rock, green grass and tree-covered hills in the background
The Oregon Trail Wheel Ruts

A few final pictures from our jaunt around Colorado.  If you haven’t been there, I STRONGLY encourage you to put it on your bucket list.  You won’t regret it!

Green, grassy meadow with snow-capped mountains towering in the background
The Rockies
Lake surrounded by scrub brush and tree-covered mountains
Rifle Gap Reservoir
Dash of a car shows a mileage reading of 3501 miles
Odometer reading as we pulled into the driveway (No!  We didn’t drive around the block an extra time to get it to 3500, I don’t know what you’re talking about!) 🙂

Have you visited any of these places?  Tell me about your adventure in the comments! 

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5 “Don’t Miss” Places for Your New Mexico Road Trip

We spent an interesting few days in New Mexico on our 2017 road trip. Included is our trip to the International UFO Museum in Roswell, an excursion at White Sands National Monument and…the flu?

 

New Mexico was next on our list for our 2017 road trip after the Great Plains.  Originally we had planned on visiting Amarillo and the Palo Duro Canyon State Park in the Texas panhandle.  However, with the expected 90-degree temperatures and plenty of scrub-land ahead of us, we decided to press on into New Mexico, instead–as we found out later, this was a VERY wise choice…

Tucumcari, New Mexico

We stayed at the Tucumcari KOA, in the northwest corner of the state, for our first night. 

Aside from a two-hour rain delay in the tent setup, it was a decent campground, though it was noisy.  It is actually located on Route 66, but, unfortunately, is literally only a few hundred feet from the coursing vehicles on I-40 (Route 66 runs with the highway in this area).

  The tent sites all came with grills and protected picnic tables, though again, firewood was hard to come by and there were no fire rings.

I was unclear as to the discouragement of campfires in this part of the country.  It is the desert, to be fair, but it’s comprised mostly of sandy scrubland.  It’s not entirely clear to me where the concern about the spread of wildfires lies (but I will defer to the experts on this).

Lack of tent sites in “campgrounds”

Another frustration we encountered in the early part of our trip was what seemed to be catering to RVs by the parks.  There’s nothing wrong with RVing, but if a park’s facilities are better matched to an RV and not a tent, then proprietors, you are an RV park, not a campground.  I say this because when travelers who are unfamiliar with the area locate a “campground” on Google, it is frustrating to then find they offer no tent sites. 😡   

When daydreaming of road trips, it’s easy to drum up iconic images of a station wagon pulling a tiny camper, cooking outside, and even sleeping out under the stars.  But until we reached the more remote parks in Colorado, we saw very few tents.  Does no one tent camp anymore?  Is it a bygone pastime?  For the first half of the trip, we felt like “tenters” were just an afterthought to many of the campgrounds we visited.

Strange Animals in New Mexico

We encountered several new fauna in this state.  One, a Western Kingbird, is a beautiful bird that resembles a robin, though it is grey and has a yellow rather than red breast.  It’s also apparently known to be quite social.  Our new friend planted himself on a tree branch only a few feet from us for the majority of the morning and proffered us a lovely serenade while we packed up camp. 

I found favor with another local while washing dishes that morning.  I saved a Carolina Wolf Spider from the outdoor sink! (I found the name ironic as I don’t remember seeing them when we lived in the Carolinas.)  As I learned later, this is the largest of the wolf spider species.  For a fervent arachnophobe, I thought this rescue was quite an impressive feat!  Its body was grey and tan and it appeared to have black “socks” on its feet.  I could also see black mandibles that it was unsuccessfully attempting to use to clean the water off its legs.   

I’m not usually a fan of spiders in my home—though after learning that a favorite food of the benevolent wolf spider is the fearsome black widow, I do try to release them in my garage.  Feast my friends!  My zeal for killing “those that skitter” has been lessened by sage advice I received from my father-in-law, “When a critter comes into your home he’s trespassing on your space, but when you go outside you’re trespassing on his.”  So, I try to uphold this mindset and maintain a tolerant coexistence with our creepy, crawly, outdoor cohabitors.

International UFO Museum, Roswell, New Mexico

Later that day, I was able to knock another item off my Road Trip Bucket List when we visited Roswell, New Mexico, and the International UFO Museum!  Yes, it is just as wacky as it sounds! 

I was a little disappointed with the actual town of Roswell.  It’s a fine place, but it is, in fact, just another town (with the occasional alien waving at you from a hotel sign).  They do have a McDonald’s shaped like a UFO, but even that was underwhelming as it’s just the playground portion (apparently the inside is rather cool as it is alien/space-themed, but we chose not to partake). 

The actual “alien crash site” is located on private land so we weren’t able to visit, but the town is missing out on great revenue potential.  The Deep South has ghost tours, the Plains has tornado-chasing tours, and Roswell should have UFO-viewing tours!  (Seriously, an enterprising person should get on this, you’d make a killing!) 

The museum was interesting.  I’ve long been a fan of Unsolved Mysteries, X-Files, Ancient Aliens, etc. so nothing we saw or heard was really surprising.  Mostly it was comprised of a lot of suppositions and hearsay (though my coworkers used it as a prime opportunity to make numerous jokes at my expense upon my return).

A colorful large sign on a building with a green, alien head. The sign reads, "International UFO Museum Research Center Roswell, New Mexico".
The International UFO Museum in Roswell, New Mexico!

We reached Alamogordo in the southcentral part of the state that night with plans to camp at the Oliver Lee Memorial State Park which we had heard many good things about.  However, as we pulled into town and storm clouds were again becoming entrenched directly over the park (and we still suffered from a lack of firewood), we opted for a shower and a hotel instead.

White Sands National Park

The next day we ventured to the White Sands National Park to tour the sand dunes.  We were EXTREMELY lucky as the high for the day was only going to be in the mid-80s and there was a breeze and a fair amount of clouds to provide respite from the sun (I honestly couldn’t think of better weather in that area in early summer ). 

We got a bit of a late start, not beginning our trek until around 10 am, though we were well-prepared with plenty of water, sunscreen, light clothing, and sun hats.  We also had a plan to not venture too far, to watch each other for heat stress, and to only be gone an hour or so (there is NO SHADE at the dunes and the reflection of the sunlight on the white sand makes heat stress an even greater risk—as do the dry winds that increase the chances of dehydration).  

The dunes were fascinating!  The sand was a beautiful light cream color (hence the name) and we saw several similarly colored lizards that would have been perfectly camouflaged had they not been dashing across the hot surface at the time.  There’s an airbase and missile range nearby so we were treated to military jets zooming overhead, the thunder from their engines ricocheting over the heat waves as the San Andres mountains loomed in the distance.

Sick while on vacation

 We ended our hike around noon, just as we were both starting to feel the sun’s effects and went to the shaded picnic area for lunch.  I was feeling a bit queasy, but that’s not unusual when I get overheated and hungry.  We were out of the sun, getting some food and a cool drink, and relaxing in the shade, so all should have been well…   

…after lunch, we drove around a bit more, took some pictures, and then started to make our way across the rutted road back to the Visitor’s Center (we had plans of camping that night at the State Park)…and then it hit, hard and fast!  I’ll spare you the grisly details but let’s just say I’m not proud to admit that I failed miserably in my “Leave No Trace” practices on the dunes that day. 🤮  We thought it was just the heat so we made plans to go to a hotel that night so I could have a cool shower and recover in the air conditioning.  Eight hours later, with the illness still racking my body, Mr. Trekker wisely suggested we visit the urgent care just a scant five minutes away. 

I’m a fairly healthy person and I usually prefer to allow nature to take its course in these types of situations but, 1000 miles from home, in a strange place, in the middle of vacation, and facing a possible trip to the ER for treatment of dehydration, I decided to heed his astute advice. 

I am happy to say the Urgent Care treated us very well–side note, whoever invented Zofran (anti-nausea med) should be Sainted!  The medicine worked like a charm and rehydration/rest finally began!

We ended up spending two days at a lovely Fairfield Inn, playing several card games of War and watching COUNTLESS hours of Last Man Standing (the hotel also had a lovely patio I was able to enjoy the next day).  See, even a severe stomach ailment on vacation can offer some opportunities for enjoyment (a wonderful traveling partner turned incredible nursemaid didn’t hurt either!) 

We still don’t know what made me sick.  The urgent care didn’t run any tests, they didn’t seem too concerned about why I was sick, they just wanted to make me better.  It could have been heat exhaustion, something I ate or drank, or just the basic flu (Mr. Trekker had ingested basically the same things I had with no negative side effects). 

We did drink strange water at the National Park that day that tasted TERRIBLE (due to chlorine) but it was marked for drinking.  I have a sensitive stomach and heat sensitivity that I’ve noted in previous posts, but this seemed different.  I’m hopeful it was just a badly-timed case of the flu–and continuing proof of our bad luck on this trip–that won’t be making a reappearance any time soon!

Related Posts:  Lessons Learned on a Road Trip11 “Don’t Miss” sites in Colorado10 “Don’t Miss” Places for your Great Plains Road Trip

Giant Pistachio, Alamogordo, New Mexico

By that time we were ready to throw in the towel on this vacation.  It just seemed that we were stymied at every turn.  We did manage to stop at “The Giant Pistachio” on our way out of Alamagordo—which is exactly what it sounds like.  It’s a pistachio ranch with a store where you can buy various food items (including delicious green chile salsa and of course, pistachios).  It also has a giant statue of a pistachio out front! 

Don’t let frustrations derail your vacation plans

We drove north with plans to cancel the rest of our trip, hit I-25, and be home the next day…however, almost as soon as we left town, the terrain seemed to change.  The dry, soulless scrub-land filled with nothing but dirt and cacti that we had been experiencing the last several days transformed into an area that, while still dry, also sported dark green pines, bushes, and tan prairie grass all set against a backdrop of bright red earth!  This in conjunction with the sun that had finally broken through the rain clouds, and the desert mountains towering on either side of us as we traversed the valley, brightened our hopes a bit. 

We had already canceled our plans in the Great Sand Dunes (see this post for info regarding our rescheduled trip there)*, but I casually suggested to my loyal driver that maybe we could still try to push for Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado…and I got a hearty, “I was just thinking the same thing!” in reply.   The Adventure was back on!

*A side note, apparently the last week of May/first week of June is when the Medano Creek runs high from spring snowmelt and it’s an INCREDIBLY busy time at the park.  We weren’t aware of that until we canceled the reservations but it is something to keep in mind if planning a visit. 

The Flora of Northern New Mexico

This trip allowed me to verify again for myself that the desert isn’t my favorite place to visit.  It’s hot…it’s dry…it’s hot…there’s pokey plants…did I mention it’s hot? 😓  I’ve discussed on several occasions that heat and I are not the best of friends, so I was looking forward to trading in the dry deserts of New Mexico for the lush forests of Colorado. 

But I learned something along the way…northern New Mexico is absolutely beautiful!  The mountains and plains surrounded us in a verdant spring green which contrasted with the black volcanic rocks.  I assume we were lucky to be there so early in the summer season so things were still green (it also seemed that they had an unusually wet spring, who would expect to see standing water in fields in New Mexico?  We had rain almost every day we were in the state!) 

Capulin Volcano National Monument

Did you know there is an extinct volcano in northern New Mexico?  From my extremely limited understanding of volcanology, an “extinct” volcano simply means it hasn’t erupted in a REALLY long time…but that in no way ensures another eruption isn’t possible! (For more information on this national monument, click here.) 

So, we arrived at the Capulin Volcano, in northwest New Mexico, with plans to hike around it a bit before heading to Colorado for the night.  FYI, the park closes at 5:00 pm promptly, even during the summer months.  We learned this when we arrived at the park…just as the ranger was locking the gate. *sigh* Seriously, at this point our bad luck on this trip was becoming laughable!  😜

So instead, we took the long way back to the Interstate on back roads, enjoying the beauty and solitude of the northern New Mexican countryside on our way to the hotel in southern Colorado that night.  Yes, after 1600 miles, we had finally reached the Interstate (this was by choice.  We could have continued on back roads but this was actually a more direct route to our destination and we decided for that short time we wanted to get where we were going quickly). 

With that, after five days of chaos, we left New Mexico behind.  We do intend to return though, at least to the northern section, as I still want to investigate that volcano and there are more places (like Taos and Sante Fe) we want to explore!

A two-lane, paved road stretches to the horizon amidst desolate, desert scrubland
The barren New Mexico countryside
Desert scrubland in the foreground leads to dark mountains in the far background
The scrubland against the mountain backdrop was beautiful!
A dark picture where desert scrubland in the foreground and dark mountains in the background are barely visible. In the far background appears to be a white, shimmering lake.
The white mirage shimmering in the distance is the sand dunes at White Sands National Park.

Have you enjoyed any of these destinations?  Tell me about it in the comments!

 

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3 pictures: 1) Brown road sign that reads, Historic New Mexico 66 Route; 2) A colorful large sign on a building with a green, alien head. The sign reads, "International UFO Museum Research Center Roswell, New Mexico"; 3) A dark picture of desert scrubland with a milky, setting sun. Pin reads, 5 "Don't Miss" Places for your New Mexico Road Trip

 

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10 “Don’t Miss” Places for your Great Plains Road Trip

In this post, I review our adventures while traversing the Great Plains on our 2017 road trip.

 

The Trekkers had an adventurous, 2017 Road Trip.  It included 3500 miles (only 185 on Interstate and that was by choice); two days sick in a hotel with one trip to the urgent care; a nasty road rash; difficulty locating firewood; countless cows; interesting people; beautiful countryside and one “Close Encounter of the Furry Kind”! 

We spent two weeks roaming a landscape that spanned almost 1000 miles north to south and almost 700 miles east to west.  It was an interesting, frustrating, challenging, exhausting, wonderful trip that I can’t wait to share with you.  So, without further ado… let’s get started with our first portion, The Great Plains!

Note:  This was more of a sightseeing trip rather than our usual recreational adventures.  We did some hiking, which I’ll touch on, but I’ll mostly be drawing attention to family-friendly, roadside attractions available in small towns throughout the Great Plains and the West.  I hope this will inspire you to visit these sometimes little-known areas, and that the challenges we faced will encourage you to persevere when the going gets tough (or well-intentioned plans get altered) as grand experiences may be waiting just around the corner.

Carhenge and Chimney Rock in Western Nebraska

On the first day, we visited Carhenge and Chimney Rock (we learned throughout the trip there are several Chimney Rocks in the country).  Carhenge is a unique art sculpture in the middle of the Nebraska plains near Alliance. 

It looks exactly as it sounds!  It is a sculpture made of old, half-buried, American cars arranged in a pattern resembling the ancient European relic, Stonehenge.  It’s been on my Road Trip Bucket List for some time, so I was thrilled to visit, and it did not disappoint. 

A circle-monument made of gray cars sits in a green field on a dirt path
Carhenge

We also stopped at Chimney Rock near Scottsbluff, a key landmark used by pioneers on the Oregon Trail on their westward trek into the frontier.  It looks about like the name sounds (the old American Indian name for it basically translates to “elk penis” which is apt as well…hey, I’m just the messenger! 😇)

A red rock spire rises from a red rock hill on a green plain
Chimney Rock

Enders Reservoir State Recreation Area, Enders, Nebraska

The first night we arrived at our pre-determined stop, Enders State Park in southwestern Nebraska.  The park is nice, though the website was a bit misleading.  It highlighted “showers and modern toilets”.  We never found the “modern” toilets–unless in Nebraska a pit toilet is considered “modern”–and the only “showers” we saw were outdoor cement slabs, with drains, that would be suitable for hosing off. 

As we didn’t arrive until after six on the Saturday of Memorial Day weekend, there were no attendants on duty and registration was self-pay.  That was fine, though it was confusing as to where exactly you should pay as there were multiple entrance points/camping areas. 

A Frustrating Road Trip

We encountered quite a few frustrations on the Great Plains portion of our Road Trip…

Lack of Firewood

Unlike the Black Hills, where firewood is available at just about every corner gas station/grocery store, we found locating it in the Plains to be almost impossible.  As it turned out, the camp store just outside the park sold firewood, but it closed at 7 pm.  We arrived around 6:50, not knowing when the store closed or that it was our only option to acquire firewood.  Needless to say, by the time we realized our error…it was about 7:15 (this lousy luck would become a pattern throughout the trip). 😝 

Lack of nice tent-camping areas

Enders State Park provides plenty of tent-camping areas, the problem was they were difficult to locate, all terribly overgrown and extremely primitive–to the point where you’d have to walk a large distance or take your car to reach the nearest pit toilet.  Fire rings were also not available in the tent camping areas.  We ended up disperse camping in a nice picnic area which allowed us a covered picnic table to prepare dinner (there were no signs forbidding us from pitching our tent there and the ranger we saw the next morning didn’t chastise us for our choice). 

A surprise event!

Needless to say, by this point, we were getting rather frustrated…not a good way to start the trip.  That was until we were packing up for bed, and we noticed faint blue flames in the northern sky, wisps dancing from left to right…the Northern Lights!   At one point they resembled pillars rotating around a cylinder, like a campfire.  They were eerie, awesome, and utterly beautiful.  Needless to say, our bedtime was delayed that night! 

Sometimes lousy luck is just a prelude to grand things to come!  If we had found a different campsite that wasn’t as isolated or had sat by a roaring fire that night, we may have missed the pale light show dimly burning in the night sky…

 

Related Posts:  Lessons Learned on a Road Trip11 “Don’t Miss” sites in Colorado5 “Don’t Miss” Places for Your New Mexico Road Trip 

Monument Rocks and Dodge City, Kansas 

On Day 2 we visited one of the most interesting sites I’ve ever seen, Monument Rocks near Oakley, Kansas.  These are large, sedimentary rock formations that rise out of the middle of the Kansas cornfields!  They reminded me of those found in Badlands National Park.  They loom oddly out of place as they rise from the Kansas prairie, though they are quite beautiful.  

White, rock spires rise from the ground in a sandy, desert-like area
Monument Rocks

White, rock spires rise from the ground in sandy, desert-like scrubland

A large, white, rock rises from the ground with a large hole in the middle in a sandy, desert-like area
The Keyhole at Monument Rocks

Later, we visited Dodge City, Kansas.  For anyone who’s been to the tourist trap that is Keystone, SD, that’s what I was expecting, but on a grander scale.  Sadly,  I was disappointed. 

There was an interesting “Pioneer Town” which offered a museum you could tour, but it was in the middle of town.  You could literally see the double arches at the McDonald’s across the street through the clapboard fence. 🙃  The town did have a nice downtown area with trendy shops, but we decided to press on.

Meade State Park, Meade Kansas

That night we attempted to stay at Meade State Park in extreme southern Kansas, but to no avail.  It was our own fault for not making reservations on Memorial Day weekend (and as it turned out it was one of the only state parks in the area), though I was rather glad we didn’t. The place was absolutely packed! 

Meade State Park was lovely, shaded, and situated around a lake.  Unfortunately, not just every campsite was full, but people were also pitching tents almost on top of each other in picnic areas, music was blasting from every corner, and people were milling about so badly it was difficult to drive through them in some spots…not very tranquil.  Needless to say, due to this and the fact we still hadn’t located any firewood*, we ended up having a lovely dinner at Arby’s and staying at a hotel in Liberal, Kansas that night!

*It’s not that we’re terribly unprepared, we intentionally planned to acquire firewood along the way rather than bringing it with us.  This is because many parks that we’ve visited out West don’t allow firewood from outside the state due to the concern of spreading pests.  As we learned, this was not the case in the Plains.  Not sure if the lack of firewood is due to fewer trees on the Plains, or if it’s just that the regulations are so lax everyone just brings their own, but either way, come prepared!

Liberal Kansas

Day 3 was one of the highlights of the trip, we visited Dorothy’s House (along with the Coronado Museum) and the Mid-America Air Museum in Liberal, KS!  As it turned out, not camping the night before and having already made the hour drive to Liberal meant we could start the morning touring straight from there!  

Dorothy’s House and the Coronado Museum, Liberal Kansas

Dorothy’s house was as cheesy as you can possibly imagine such a place would be…and I absolutely LOVED it!  I was impressed with how in-depth it was. 

You actually tour a historical home from that area that was built around the time the book, Wizard of Oz, was originally written.  It was laid out just like Uncle Henry’s and Aunt Em’s home from the movie. 

Then you meander through the Land of Oz, complete with Dorothy as a tour guide.  She gave us the choice of hearing the story again or getting random trivia from the making of the movie.  The group agreed that we’d all seen the movie so we opted for the trivia! 

There was a good amount of movie memorabilia, including the actual model of the home used during the tornado scene.  Our tour guide gave us plenty of unique tidbits, but I won’t ruin those surprises.  You’ll have to visit this fun roadside attraction yourself if you’re ever in that area and offer patronage to Liberal’s Historical Society to boot! 

While we were there we also toured the neighboring Coronado Museum and saw many unique figurines from that era, including some disturbing medical/dental equipment!

Mid-America Air Museum, Liberal Kansas

If you enjoy air museums, this place has quite a bit to offer.  It was started by a former pilot from Oklahoma City who donated his collection of over 50 planes.  The Mid-America Air Museum offers a mixture of military and civilian aircraft in a spacious, air-conditioned hangar.  They put on quite a show for such a small non-profit!

**I was also able to knock two more items off my Road Trip Bucket List in the early part of the trip.  I can now say that I’ve visited both Oklahoma and Texas.  We only drove through the panhandles of both states, they were flat. 😉   

The “Mother Road”, Route 66 in New Mexico

We ended the 3rd night on the famed Route 66 in northeastern New Mexico.  Otherwise known as “the Mother Road”, Route 66 was one of the first highways to span the country, connecting Chicago with the California coast, and it’s definitely worth a visit! 

Locating the actual Route 66 can be difficult due to the current highway systems (sometimes it runs with a current highway, other times it almost disappears completely).  The road has also been re-routed throughout the years, making its “true” location even more cryptic.  Truly enterprising adventurers can track it, though a high clearance, 4WD vehicle may be required to navigate what’s left of the pockmarked, scrub-covered pavement in some areas.

Fortunately for us, where the route traverses northeastern New Mexico is one of the easier portions to locate.  It serves as the main drag for several small towns—including Tucumcari and Santa Rosa—and parallels I-40 as a service road in this area. 

There are still some signs of life on this section of the old road, some still-functioning hotels and gas stations lit with neon lights that maintain the motif of ages past.  Without the large, classic cars of that era though, it’s hard to imagine the atmosphere is anywhere near comparable. 

Unfortunately, most of the still-standing buildings are dilapidated skeletons of their once-great selves, frequently forming ghost towns with other structures of that bygone era.  We ended our 3rd night, traveling Route 66 westward into a bank of thunderheads in Tucumcari, New Mexico.

Roof of a gas station reads, "The Mother Road Route 66"
Route 66, Tucumcari, New Mexico

Roof of a gas station reads, "Route 66 Get Your Kicks"

 

Have you visited any of these places?  Tell me about your experience in the comments!

 

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4 pictures: 1) White, rock spires rise from the ground in sandy, desert-like scrubland; 2) A large, white, rock rises from the ground with a large hole in the middle in a sandy, desert-like area; 3) A red rock spire rises from a red rock hill on a green plain; 4) Roof of a gas station reads, "The Mother Road Route 66". Pin reads, "10 'Don't Miss' Places for your Great Plains Road Trip"

 

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Jenny Gulch Road in the Black Hills

In this post, I review the drive on Jenny Gulch Road, in the central Black Hills.

 

In a  previous post, I gave a brief mention to Jenny Gulch Road.  It is found off Silver City Road, on the way to the Jenney Gulch boat ramp of Pactola Lake and the tiny community of Silver City. 

This gets a little confusing.  There are several roads in the Rapid City and the central Black Hills area that go by this name so Google Maps (and possibly other mapping programs) may send you to the wrong place.  To be clear, for this post I am referencing the Jenny Gulch Road that follows along Forest Road 261 and runs through a central portion of the Black Hills National Forest, outside of town.  It meets up with Broad Gulch Road and runs as far as Rochford Road, both of which eventually lead you to Highway 385, one of the main routes through the Hills. 

In the earlier post, I mentioned a large section of the road heads off to the north (and consequently not near Jenney Gulch at all) but we’d never taken that route.  I am happy to report we have rectified that issue and I can now give you details of that road, as well! 

Jenny Gulch Road offers a nice drive through national forestland.  It doesn’t really provide any exciting activity options, but several dead-end forest roads branch off from it which present prime “set-up-your-hammock-and-enjoy-the-quiet of-the forest” opportunities.  These would also be some good spots for dispersed camping. 

We did learn these are off-limits to vehicle travel and are barred by gates in the off-season (though they’re still available for foot travel). 

The road is recommended for high clearance vehicles only and near the northern terminus, I was glad we had the 4×4 with the higher ground clearance.  A regular AWD vehicle could probably make it but some of the ruts could cause the situation to become a little dodgy.

This back road is something to think about if you’re looking for a secluded place in the forest to collect your thoughts, and another item checked off of our Black Hills Bucket List!

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