In this post, I review a 4×4 driving class the Trekkers took and our adventure at Great Sand Dunes National Park.
Author’s note: In a previous post regarding one of our epic, summer road trips, I mentioned we canceled plans at this locale due to me falling ill. I had originally intended this adventure as a present for Mr. Trekker for achieving Tenure, but, since our plans got changed, it ended up being an anniversary trip instead.
The Great Sand Dunes National Park is located in south-central Colorado, near the small town of Saguache. The park is nestled among the beautiful Sangre de Cristo Mountains in the San Luis Valley.
We were able to reschedule our trip for the fall (which consequently is a much prettier time to visit that area due to leaf colors. It’s also less busy and much cooler, all pluses in the Trekker book! Ya’ll know how I LOVE the heat! 😓)
Unbeknownst to us, when we had originally planned to visit, in early June, is one of the busiest times at the park. This is when the creek runs high due to snowmelt in the mountains.
The Great Sand Dunes are situated in a GORGEOUS location!
We woke up the first morning surrounded by a 360-degree view of the rounded peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Gorgeous pictures painted the walls of the rental house, reflecting the spectacular scenery found in the surrounding area.
I’ve waxed lyrical about our love for Air B&B’s before. This choice was a simple, rustic old farmhouse that had been renovated. The kitchen was well-stocked with the cooking equipment/utensils you might need and beautiful cabinetry adorned the walls. The home offered plenty of room for a family to sleep and is centrally located in the San Luis Valley, making an ideal base camp for day treks to the Great Sand Dunes or any hiking, 4×4-ing, or winter sports you want to engage in within the surrounding area.
The adorable kitchen in the rental houseSunrise over the Sangre de Cristo range
We rented a jeep for the weekend and spent Saturday in a hands-on 4×4 driving class. We learned proper tire placement, how to navigate various routes (picking the correct line, sticking to the high ground), as well as acquiring safety tips and how to get ourselves out of sticky situations (such as fashioning a winch using a hi-lift jack to get a vehicle out of a bind).
We then spent Sunday trekking around Great Sand Dunes National Park, driving the Medano Pass Primitive Road, and getting sandblasted on the dunes (it was windy that day!)
Medano Creek, which you cross numerous times when driving the Primitive Road, runs fairly low in the fall which made for easier crossings for us novices. If you want the challenge of higher water crossings early June through summer would be a better time to visit (though there are times in spring when the road is closed due to extremely high water from snowmelt and spring rains.) Also, as the road is two-way but is only one lane wide, there were times we found it complicated to navigate while leaving room for others to pass. I can’t imagine how this challenge may be exacerbated in the crowded, summer months.
Pathfinders 4×4
We rented the jeep through Pathfinders 4×4 and its proprietor, Cam Benton, taught the class. The company offers jeeps for rent as well as jeep tours and 4×4 driving classes. You can find out more at Pathfinders 4×4.
I cannot say enough about Cam, he was incredible! He was friendly, personable, and a wonderful teacher. Not only did he allow us to cancel our original reservations inside the 5-day “no cancellations” window, but he also gave us an almost total refund (with the exception of our initial deposit which he then credited back to us when we rescheduled).
Cam also owns several Air B&B properties. We had originally reserved a room in his home for that weekend but the week before our arrival he suggested we could use the nearby rental house, which he also owned, if we preferred. It provided more privacy, more space for us, and was actually more centrally located to our planned activities for that weekend. The cost of the home was close to double the cost of the room we actually paid for but he offered it to us for no extra charge.
**To be clear, Cam has not reimbursed me in any way for giving him this glowing review, I just firmly believe in giving credit where credit is due. 😁
As is often true for mountain weather, we were able to experience multiple seasons in just a few days. The weekend was full of clear blue skies and warm temperatures in southern Colorado, and we had intended to stay through Sunday night. However, with impending Winter Storm warnings for the Denver area on Monday (Denver was between us and home) we opted to leave Sunday afternoon instead. Not all was lost though. This change in travel plans allowed us to enjoy a leisurely, beautiful fall drive on scenic US 285 through the South Park area and Trout Creek Pass back to Denver, and on Monday we were able to enjoy our first snow of the season!
Below are some more pictures from our weekend of fun. Thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker for several of these!
Sunset over the Great Sand Dunes and Medano CreekFall at Great Sand Dunes National Park!Snow in Denver!
This is a great park to visit no matter the time of year. Definitely put it on your “to-do” list!
Have you ever visited the park or driven the Medano Creek Road? Tell me about it in the comments!
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In case you haven’t figured it out by now, I LOVE to travel and I LOVE road trips. The freedom of the open road; the excitement of not knowing what you’ll find around the next corner; the varying beauty of the ever-changing landscape; the unique individuals you encounter along the way. For my final “2017 Summer Trip” post, I thought I’d offer a compilation of the various thoughts/observations I had, and lessons learned while trekking across the country this summer.
Road Trip across The Great Plains:
I’m always pleasantly surprised at how lovely I find western Nebraska to be with its rugged badlands and rolling prairies. As I always assumed all of Nebraska to be flat, I didn’t expect to enjoy it more than Kansas. Although its seas of green and brown crops (and cows!) has a beauty in its own right, I actually found western Kansas to be boring as it was “flat-as-a-pancake” flat–perhaps the beauty of the corn belt is lost on me having grown up surrounded by it. 😇 Both states showcased “horizon-to-horizon” blue skies and incredibly friendly people. The country roads lined with upside-down boots planted on fence posts accentuated the iconic scene.
The moose observation point at State Forest State Park
Unfortunately, the Plains aren’t comprised solely of simplistic beauty. Many of the small towns we encountered were incredibly run-down with boarded up store windows on their main streets and lack of development. They just felt depressed. Many of these places appeared as though they’ve been languishing for decades. They’re either too remote, too small or they lack much impact on the greater country so they are forgotten and left behind. One can imagine the people living there may start to feel the same way.
Traveling through these areas helped me to understand an often misunderstood portion of our population. In recent months, some people have asked, “how did we get here?” (politically speaking). For me, spending time in these downtrodden areas offered an explanation. It’s understandable that distressed people flock to anything that appears to promise relief from what has become the unfortunate norm.
Similar to politics that smell to high heaven, let’s talk about feedlots! 😉 The smell…the sheer size—thousands of head of cattle corralled in pens as far as the eye can see–the smell. 🤥 I’ve had minor experiences with these while traveling around the country in the past but never to the extent that we encountered on this trip. Wow…did I mention the smell? Not only are they immense, but the odor emanating off a feedlot on a 90-degree day is something to behold! I thought the pit toilet we encountered at State Forest State Park was bad! 😝 I almost felt bad for the poor bovines, being fattened for slaughter…and then I’d catch a whiff trailing on the breeze of someone grilling in their backyard and think, “mmmmm…steak…” 🤤
My memory of this state will always be of heading off into an endless expanse of desert punctuated by scrub brush and beautiful mountain mesas; under the watchful gaze of a buzzard poised on an electrical pole; as old telegraph wires frame the railroad that accompanies you on your journey. I expected the state to be desolate, but it felt even more rural than South Dakota, and that’s saying something! I also fell in love with a pink, blooming, cactus bush we encountered along the roadside that Google informs me is a “cane cholla cactus”.
I’ve mentioned this in a previous post, but I never expected to see so much rain in this state. Isn’t it supposed to be a desert? 🤔 We saw rain each of the five days we spent there and regularly experienced “sunshowers”—when a cloud would darken the sky and then rain would pelt your windshield as the sun returned. I certainly didn’t expect to see temps in the 50s (in rainstorms) in New Mexico that time of year!
The Rockies!
The drastic change in ecosystems between the northern and southern portions of the state was stark. I found the south to be depressing with the hot, dry, desert that was permeated by cracked earth. As you traveled north you quickly returned to almost a prairie-like scrubland. This area reminded me of northeastern Wyoming. The grass was such a verdant spring green color that it felt like going back in time to early spring, even though it was the first week of June.
Lessons Learned on the Road:
As we drove past a rockslide on I-25 that had closed both westbound lanes, I couldn’t help but be amazed by the power of Nature and the fact that, even in 2017, we don’t really control it, we just react to what it throws at us. It was encouraging to see how it carries on. As an example, when the pines die from disease or fire, the aspen/birch trees shoot up to replace them. It may take a couple of decades, and it may never be “the same” again, but Nature can’t truly be contained. As can be seen in the beautiful aspen groves, this change doesn’t have to be a bad thing!
New Mexico has a unique landscape, Colorado has unique people
–We met some very interesting characters on our jaunt around the Rocky Mountain state, but everyone was friendly and seemed to be good-hearted. Sitting in a parking lot at a state park, a lady walked up to my window and accosted me with, “so…what do you think?” No “hello” or pleasantries. I was like, “uh, about the park?” She started laughing. As it turns out, she wanted my personal opinion of my Outback, which I then happily gave her!
–As we were talking with the kindly elderly volunteers at a southern Colorado Welcome Center, another verbose local engaged us in conversation regarding made-up cowboy names for our dog–who wasn’t there. (Another patron had brought a friendly dog into the store which initiated the whole conversation.)
–There was the wisened cowboy who closely resembled a certain “Jolly Old Elf” (on holiday?) who was playing the fiddle at a rest stop (he was quite good!)
More of the beautiful Rocky Mountains!
–We also spotted a VW van full of twenty-something “Hippies” at a gas station (it was a very iconic site).
–Then there was the man who “followed” us from Mesa Verde to Ridgeway State Park. He was recognizable because he used no tent, choosing only to sleep in a bivvy bag out in the open, under the stars. This made him memorable and was probably the only reason I noticed him (I’m not sure he noticed us). He also just happened to be at campsites near ours at both parks.
Random Musings:
–I was heartened by all the solar panels we saw that appeared to be used privately as well a commercially. We also saw countless stretches of land accented by wind turbines. Regardless of any official policies that may or may not be put in place by local/state/federal governments, these sights encouraged me that the country as a whole has turned a corner and is “going green”.
An exception to this would be the farming of cattle in arid areas. We saw quite a bit of watering of pastureland to provide food for the cows. I couldn’t help but marvel at what appeared to be the absurdity of it. Driving through land that is naturally arid and seeing water being used to keep grass green when it naturally wouldn’t be. I couldn’t help but think, “what’s the point?” I grew up on a small farm and I, in no way, wish to shirk people the joy of that lifestyle or to run them out of their livelihood, but I do believe in the principle of “Work Smarter, Not Harder”. It just seems that we should stop fighting Nature. As we feel more effects from climate change these struggles could become even more pronounced. Let’s make the land productive by working with it and letting it work for us. If there’s not enough water naturally to keep grazing land for cows in a given location, perhaps it’s time to initiate a new crop there that thrives in (and is preferably native to) a dry climate.
–The regular appearance of “roadside tables” accompanied us along our route, and we enjoyed them very much! They make very convenient lunch stops, offering space for humans and our 4-legged companions to stretch our legs. We have also found picnic lunches to be more relaxing for the ease of stopping they afford. They offer more healthy food opportunities, they allow you to enjoy the outdoors more, and they’re cheaper than stopping at restaurants (fast food or otherwise!)
Lovely view of a stream flowing through Telluride, CO
–One fun activity I’ve found as you start racking unique road trips under your belt is to compare how similar various areas of the country feel. Many of the mountain vistas we encountered in the Colorado Rockies reminded us of views we saw on previous trips to Glacier or Yellowstone National Parks.
As we descended out of the Sacramento Mountains westward, heading into Alamagordo, New Mexico, I was reminded of the Black Hills. The low mountains sporting the drier, ponderosa pine forest made me feel like we had returned home. Western Colorado reminds me of Southern California with the desert/scrubland. I had no idea how dry it is. I knew the southern portion would be dry but I assumed the northern portion (east and west) would be wet and foresty, like Rocky Mountain National Park. Out near Grand Junction, it was pure desert, which reminded me of nearby Utah and the Moab area.
–One unique aspect we had not seen before was several miles-long trains, just sitting on the tracks that paralleled the highway. I got the impression their stay was intended to be long-term as there was a break in the line at EVERY SINGLE crossing we came across to allow vehicles to pass. I can’t imagine how much work it took to get that in place!
–This trip helped us to really appreciate how spoiled we are living in the Black Hills. Beautiful campgrounds are plentiful that cater to RV’s and “tenters” alike; fires are usually allowed in campgrounds (unless the fire danger is high); firewood is easily available; the weather is frequently lovely (any time of the year); and, smoky days notwithstanding, we’re regularly blessed with truly blue skies (air pollution is low here as is the haze you find in numerous other areas of the county). Although somewhat isolated, we have access to many opportunities usually found in larger cities while still being able to enjoy a small-town air. We’re also blessed to have areas that are thriving and changing, rather than falling victim to the passage of time. (All that being said, while it’s a nice place to visit, this is an AWFUL place to live and NO ONE should move here). 😉 😇
To conclude, I truly feel a road trip is one of the best ways to experience the diverse cultures that make up the “melting-pot” population of our great country. There are things to learn from every region of this great land and the only way to truly appreciate it or understand it is to experience it! So get out there!
What lessons have you learned from road-tripping around the country? Tell me about them in the comments!
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We spent the second week of our 2017 Road Trip enjoying 11 Don’t Miss Sites in Colorado. That state is, by far, one of my favorite locations in the entire country to visit (and we’ve seen the 48 Continental US States!) Its beauty is indescribable and pictures don’t truly do it justice.
The following is a rundown of the highlights of our tour around the state. Thanks again to Mr. Trekker for some of the pictures!
Trinidad, Colorado
Trinidad is an old-school, Western town in far Southwestern Colorado, only about 15 miles from the New Mexico border. It’s a cute little community that’s been well-maintained and has seen some modern updates in recent years.
I’m still adjusting to the whole “pot legalization thing” in Colorado. 😂 It’s not my fault, I was a DARE child of the ’90s, I grew up being taught that it was bad (of course this was by the same people who also taught us that Pluto was a planet–and people wonder why I have a skeptical nature!) Then there’s the issue where it’s legal in the state but not in National Parks within that state because that’s Federal land and it’s still illegal Federally. Like every good Libertarian, I’m willing to tolerate it but *sigh*, does this make anyone else’s brain hurt?
The next day, we headed West from Trinidad on Route 160, bound for Mesa Verde National Park! 12 years ago we visited the park and parts of Western Colorado on our very first road trip, so it was cool going back. Some of it we remembered, but it had been so long that there was plenty that we were seeing again “for the first time”.
Having just recently survived a bout with an aggressive flu, I was still not my best self at this point, though, as we were entering some beautiful country we wanted to do a little sightseeing. The first pass we arrived at (and the first overlook) we stopped to take some pictures. I stepped out of the car, took one step on the unsteady gravel in my flip-flops, and skidded to my knees. The fall left a lovely road rash in its wake (because this trip just hadn’t been adventurous enough!)
At first, I figured it was nothing, till I looked down and saw red rivulets running down my leg *sigh*. So, back to the car, we went, with Mr. Trekker coming at me with the first aid kit. Unfortunately, it only had alcohol swabs in it and we were FAR from any modern bathroom with water and soap. Needless to say, Mr. Trekker was NOT my favorite person that day! But, kudos to him, he bandaged me up well (albeit painfully) and I now only have a minor scar to show for my misfortune. 😝
Mesa Verde National Park:
This unique park showcases cliff dwellings from the civilizations who lived there thousands of years ago. Some you can view from overlooks, and some you can actually tour (self-guided and ranger-led). They’ve also got a great campground with spectacular star-gazing opportunities.
Our first trip to the park was one of my first camping experiences out West where there’s far less light pollution. I remember being astounded at the light show the night sky put on (and that’s coming from a girl who grew up on an Indiana farm). It was on my first visit to this park that I fell in love with Colorado and “the West”. I didn’t know then that in six years I’d become a “Westerner” myself!
Unlike many of the national parks (such as Rocky), the campgrounds have modern bathrooms—read, flush toilets, and showers. I’d recommend at minimum a 2-day stay to really get the most out of the park.
Cliff dwellingNavajo Canyon
Route 550, the Million Dollar Highway:
On our first trip to this area, we stumbled upon this highway accidentally, completely unprepared for what we were about to experience (it was just the most accessible option to get us where we wanted to go). The second time around we knew what we were in for…and were still awed.
Route 550, in western Colorado, runs north to south between Grand Junction and Durango. It is called the Million Dollar Highway because it is so beautiful it offers million-dollar views as it traverses many mountain passes.
If you’ve never traveled this route, I STRONGLY recommend it, though I’d suggest navigating the road from south to north starting in Durango. This ensures your car is on the inside of the sharp turns the majority of the time. If you’re coming from the north you will find yourself frequently perched along cliff edges with nothing between you and the gaping maw of the canyon below than some thin oxygen (there are no guardrails the majority of the drive as the snowplow drivers need space to push the snow off the cliffs in the winter months).
If you can handle the drop-offs, this drive is a must! This area is referred to as the “Switzerland of America” because its incredible mountain vistas rival those found in the immensely beautiful, European country.
I can testify the views here rival those we saw in Glacier National Park on the Going to the Sun Road (though these are more accessible, depending on your location). Also, this road is open all year, weather permitting.
The most popular portion of the drive (between Durango and Ouray) is less than 70 miles in length, but plan for it to take several hours (that was our big mistake the first go-around). It’s a slow drive, in some areas the suggested speed limit on the curves is only 10 – 15 mph (and trust me, they aren’t joking). It can be slower if you find yourself traveling behind larger, slower-moving vehicles.
The most intense (and most beautiful) portion of the route runs the 25 miles between Silverton and Ouray. Stops are frequently caused by construction in the summer months as workers are constantly fighting the ongoing battle with natural erosion. Rockslides are also common (as well as avalanches in the winter).
This drive can be frightening for us acrophobes with its steep drop offs but the immensely beautiful views are worth it! There’s plenty of skiing, 4×4 trails, hiking, camping, rafting, and a slew of other activities available in this corner of Colorado, so be sure to put it on your “must-see” list.
Telluride, Colorado:
Telluride was about what I would expect from a ski town (the Trekkers are uncoordinated and therefore not downhill skiers). It was lovely, though we were a little early for the summer season so the upper roads weren’t clear of snow or open yet. We walked down the road to view a staple of the town, Bridal Veil Falls. The road up to it was open for hiking, but as I still wasn’t at my best we decided to skip that option this trip. Instead, we opted for lunch at Brown Dog Pizza, a local joint where I can honestly say I had the best cheese calzone I have ever eaten, hands down.
The ricotta cheese seemed as though it had been whipped into an airy froth. I’m no food connoisseur, but it was incredible.
Bridal Veil Falls
Ouray, Colorado (pronounced U-Ray):
The drive into town from the south is one of the most beautiful views I’ve ever seen. THIS I remembered from 12 years ago. You descend from the harrowing Million Dollar Highway and this small oasis of civilization opens up before you in the valley, beckoning you down from the peaks. (If you’ve seen the show “The Ranch” on Netflix, this town is the one used in the opening credits).
Ridgeway State Park:
Ridgeway State Park has one of my favorite campgrounds we visited on the entire trip (part of the reason we spent three days there!) It’s located just north of Ridgeway on Route 550 (north of Ouray, so out of the peaks). They have a lovely, shaded, tent-camping area that’s back off the road, complete with level, graded tent sites, modern restrooms (and showers!), all surrounded by cedar trees.
This brings me to another point. Apparently, it’s perfectly legal to smoke pot in Colorado State Parks, but don’t you dare hang a hammock from a cedar tree! I’m sure there is a good reason for this due to the risk of damage to the trees, and I’m all about protecting nature, but this just seemed to be a bit of a misalignment of priorities to me! 😝
The park surrounds a picturesque reservoir set against a backdrop of snow-capped Rockies to the east. Its location makes it an ideal base camp for numerous day trips and activities.
Ridgeway State ParkIt was so strange to look to the east and see the Rockies
True Grit Film Sites
The park also happens to be near the filming location of the original western, True Grit (the one from 1969 with John Wayne, not the new version). If you’re a good enough detective there are numerous filming sites you can locate in this area (though please be aware, many of these areas are located on private land and you are trespassing if you travel on them without the owner’s permission. Please be respectful of private property!) Click here for some help finding the sites!
We were able to view Mattie Ross’ Ranch, Courthouse Mountain, Chimney Peak, and the meadow where the shootout scene was filmed, without difficulty. The last three can be found off of Route 8 (to reach this travel east from Route 550). You’ll reach The Meadow about ½ mile before the summit of Owl Creek Pass. Courthouse Mountain and Chimney Peak are visible from The Meadow and Sleeping Rock is located at the summit of the pass.
Sleeping Rock (the rock Mattie Ross slept on in the 1969 version of True Grit)Courthouse Mountain and Chimney Peak
Mattie Ross’ Ranch is located off of Last Dollar Road which is found off of Highway 62 (the road from Ridgeway to Telluride).
Mattie Ross’ ranchDeb’s Meadow (where the final shootout scene was filmed)
Grand Mesa National Forest:
Grand Mesa National Forest is another “must-see” location in the mountains east of Grand Junction. It’s primarily used for cross-country skiing and snowmobiling in the winter months. It’s got some great campground/fishing/hiking opportunities as well, but we were, unfortunately, too early in the season to really take advantage of these options. The hiking trails weren’t yet open as there were still feet of snow drifted on them in some places. Click here for more info on our return trip to Grand Mesa!
During the peak of summer, this would be a prime place to escape the heat though, the day we were there it was near 90 in the closest town on the valley floor and it was in the ’40s, and raining/snowing large glops on us at the summit.
Snow on the summit, this was June 6th ya’ll!
Rifle/Rifle Falls, Colorado:
We spent our final hotel stay of the trip in the small town of Rifle, Colorado. This is an adorable, little town with an awesome state park!
Rifle Falls State Park was absolutely beautiful. It was the only place I’ve ever been where you can traverse walkways that stick out over the TOP of the falls! The caves at the bottom were picturesque as well (and provided a cool respite from the summer heat).
Rifle FallsA different view of the falls
State Forest State Park:
$20/night for a campsite; going several days with no indoor plumbing (or showering); a DISGUSTING pit toilet (seriously, it was an upside-down pail sitting over a stinky hole in the ground); BUT…eating dinner while a cow moose and two calves eat theirs, in a field, a few thousand yards away with the Rockies as a backdrop…PRICELESS!!!
We spent the last three nights of our trip at State Forest State Park which is renowned for its moose sightings (many were re-introduced here back in the 90s.). The park actually claims to be the “Moose Viewing Capital of the World!”
It definitely offered the best moose sightings we had ever experienced…until our Labor Day camping trip in the Big Horns later that year…you can read about that here!
This view reminded us of the Garden Wall at Glacier NP.Alpenglow over the Western Rockies (Rocky Mountain National Park and the Never Summer Mountains are basically due east from here, right over those mountains.)Ranger LakesMoose from the campsite
CLOSE ENCOUNTER of the Mountain Lion Kind!!!
The final night of our trip I had a true close encounter (at least I think I did, it was dark and it was over fast!) It was late and we were the only people still up in the half-full campground. Our campsite was perched on a hill backed by the forest and fronted by a lake.
The first night, we spied a moose family skirting the campground using a gully to get to the lake for their evening drink, so we knew it was a popular thoroughfare for the local wildlife. We were waiting for the fire to burn down and out of the corner of my eye, I spotted movement in the empty campsite across the road (maybe 30 yards away and downhill from our site). At first, I thought it was a deer I had seen meandering around earlier that evening…and then I realized the “deer” had a long tail…
Interesting side note, many stories I’ve heard of people spotting mountain lions start with, “I thought it was a deer till I realized it had a long tail…” 😮
…then I thought it was a dog from one of the neighboring campsites, but I was pretty sure he was in the tent with his family…and the creature I spotted didn’t move like a dog…
Its movements were stealthy, fluid, and sleek; beautiful actually. I couldn’t tear my eyes away. It almost glided across the ground. It reminded me of watching a cat jumping onto a high shelf when you’re sure any minute it will send objects flailing into space but instead it glides gracefully around them.
It was visible for only a few seconds, once it saw me it hightailed it out of there (which is exactly what we WANT wild animals to do!), and I wasn’t able to get Mr. Trekker’s attention quickly enough for him to see it. We looked for tracks the next morning and didn’t find any but the ground was very dry and hard so this wasn’t a surprise. I can’t prove it but…I think I saw my first mountain lion that night (that’s my story and I’m sticking to it! 😉)
Oregon Trail Ruts, Guernsey, Wyoming:
On the last day of our trek, we stopped for lunch in Guernsey, Wyoming at the Oregon Trail Ruts State Historic Site. There we viewed wagon wheel ruts left forever engraved on the landscape by the pioneers traveling the Oregon Trail.
You could almost hear the lowing of oxen, the clanking of household items, and the creaking of the wagons as they slowly made their way across the prairie. You could almost smell the rank odor of animal and human sweat mixed with the constant cling of dust stirred up by the plodding of the animals’ hooves.
It was humbling to think that we traveled almost 3500 miles on our two-week road trip, crisscrossing across eight states and visiting countless places in our air-conditioned, all-wheel-drive car, with a suspension that gently glides across any bumps in our path (on the paved or graded gravel roads we drove on). Whereas these people traveled thousands of miles in a wagon train, a trip that took MONTHS as they slowly crept their way across the bumpy, muddy, rutted, rock-strewn ground, and lived under constant threat of death by exposure, disease, or attack.
When I got sick we drove five minutes to the local Urgent Care, it took maybe an hour to get seen, then we went to the Walgreens across the street for medicine and I was back in the hotel room on the road to recovery 20 minutes later. Back in the days of the wagon trains the same ailment likely would have meant DAYS of misery as the best of potential outcomes.
The Oregon Trail Wheel Ruts
A few final pictures from our jaunt around Colorado. If you haven’t been there, I STRONGLY encourage you to put it on your bucket list. You won’t regret it!
The RockiesRifle Gap ReservoirOdometer reading as we pulled into the driveway (No! We didn’t drive around the block an extra time to get it to 3500, I don’t know what you’re talking about!) 🙂
Have you visited any of these places? Tell me about your adventure in the comments!
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We spent an interesting few days in New Mexico on our 2017 road trip. Included is our trip to the International UFO Museum in Roswell, an excursion at White Sands National Monument and…the flu?
New Mexico was next on our list for our 2017 road trip after the Great Plains. Originally we had planned on visiting Amarillo and the Palo Duro Canyon State Park in the Texas panhandle. However, with the expected 90-degree temperatures and plenty of scrub-land ahead of us, we decided to press on into New Mexico, instead–as we found out later, this was a VERY wise choice…
Tucumcari, New Mexico
We stayed at the Tucumcari KOA, in the northwest corner of the state, for our first night.
Aside from a two-hour rain delay in the tent setup, it was a decent campground, though it was noisy. It is actually located on Route 66, but, unfortunately, is literally only a few hundred feet from the coursing vehicles on I-40 (Route 66 runs with the highway in this area).
The tent sites all came with grills and protected picnic tables, though again, firewood was hard to come by and there were no fire rings.
I was unclear as to the discouragement of campfires in this part of the country. It is the desert, to be fair, but it’s comprised mostly of sandy scrubland. It’s not entirely clear to me where the concern about the spread of wildfires lies (but I will defer to the experts on this).
Lack of tent sites in “campgrounds”
Another frustration we encountered in the early part of our trip was what seemed to be catering to RVs by the parks. There’s nothing wrong with RVing, but if a park’s facilities are better matched to an RV and not a tent, then proprietors, you are an RV park, not a campground. I say this because when travelers who are unfamiliar with the area locate a “campground” on Google, it is frustrating to then find they offer no tent sites. 😡
When daydreaming of road trips, it’s easy to drum up iconic images of a station wagon pulling a tiny camper, cooking outside, and even sleeping out under the stars. But until we reached the more remote parks in Colorado, we saw very few tents. Does no one tent camp anymore? Is it a bygone pastime? For the first half of the trip, we felt like “tenters” were just an afterthought to many of the campgrounds we visited.
Strange Animals in New Mexico
We encountered several new fauna in this state. One, a Western Kingbird, is a beautiful bird that resembles a robin, though it is grey and has a yellow rather than red breast. It’s also apparently known to be quite social. Our new friend planted himself on a tree branch only a few feet from us for the majority of the morning and proffered us a lovely serenade while we packed up camp.
I found favor with another local while washing dishes that morning. I saved a Carolina Wolf Spider from the outdoor sink! (I found the name ironic as I don’t remember seeing them when we lived in the Carolinas.) As I learned later, this is the largest of the wolf spider species. For a fervent arachnophobe, I thought this rescue was quite an impressive feat! Its body was grey and tan and it appeared to have black “socks” on its feet. I could also see black mandibles that it was unsuccessfully attempting to use to clean the water off its legs.
I’m not usually a fan of spiders in my home—though after learning that a favorite food of the benevolent wolf spider is the fearsome black widow, I do try to release them in my garage. Feast my friends! My zeal for killing “those that skitter” has been lessened by sage advice I received from my father-in-law, “When a critter comes into your home he’s trespassing on your space, but when you go outside you’re trespassing on his.” So, I try to uphold this mindset and maintain a tolerant coexistence with our creepy, crawly, outdoor cohabitors.
International UFO Museum, Roswell, New Mexico
Later that day, I was able to knock another item off my Road Trip Bucket List when we visited Roswell, New Mexico, and the International UFO Museum! Yes, it is just as wacky as it sounds!
I was a little disappointed with the actual town of Roswell. It’s a fine place, but it is, in fact, just another town (with the occasional alien waving at you from a hotel sign). They do have a McDonald’s shaped like a UFO, but even that was underwhelming as it’s just the playground portion (apparently the inside is rather cool as it is alien/space-themed, but we chose not to partake).
The actual “alien crash site” is located on private land so we weren’t able to visit, but the town is missing out on great revenue potential. The Deep South has ghost tours, the Plains has tornado-chasing tours, and Roswell should have UFO-viewing tours! (Seriously, an enterprising person should get on this, you’d make a killing!)
The museum was interesting. I’ve long been a fan of Unsolved Mysteries, X-Files, Ancient Aliens, etc. so nothing we saw or heard was really surprising. Mostly it was comprised of a lot of suppositions and hearsay (though my coworkers used it as a prime opportunity to make numerous jokes at my expense upon my return).
The International UFO Museum in Roswell, New Mexico!
We reached Alamogordo in the southcentral part of the state that night with plans to camp at the Oliver Lee Memorial State Park which we had heard many good things about. However, as we pulled into town and storm clouds were again becoming entrenched directly over the park (and we still suffered from a lack of firewood), we opted for a shower and a hotel instead.
White Sands National Park
The next day we ventured to the White Sands National Park to tour the sand dunes. We were EXTREMELY lucky as the high for the day was only going to be in the mid-80s and there was a breeze and a fair amount of clouds to provide respite from the sun (I honestly couldn’t think of better weather in that area in early summer ).
We got a bit of a late start, not beginning our trek until around 10 am, though we were well-prepared with plenty of water, sunscreen, light clothing, and sun hats. We also had a plan to not venture too far, to watch each other for heat stress, and to only be gone an hour or so (there is NO SHADE at the dunes and the reflection of the sunlight on the white sand makes heat stress an even greater risk—as do the dry winds that increase the chances of dehydration).
The dunes were fascinating! The sand was a beautiful light cream color (hence the name) and we saw several similarly colored lizards that would have been perfectly camouflaged had they not been dashing across the hot surface at the time. There’s an airbase and missile range nearby so we were treated to military jets zooming overhead, the thunder from their engines ricocheting over the heat waves as the San Andres mountains loomed in the distance.
Sick while on vacation
We ended our hike around noon, just as we were both starting to feel the sun’s effects and went to the shaded picnic area for lunch. I was feeling a bit queasy, but that’s not unusual when I get overheated and hungry. We were out of the sun, getting some food and a cool drink, and relaxing in the shade, so all should have been well…
…after lunch, we drove around a bit more, took some pictures, and then started to make our way across the rutted road back to the Visitor’s Center (we had plans of camping that night at the State Park)…and then it hit, hard and fast! I’ll spare you the grisly details but let’s just say I’m not proud to admit that I failed miserably in my “Leave No Trace” practices on the dunes that day. 🤮 We thought it was just the heat so we made plans to go to a hotel that night so I could have a cool shower and recover in the air conditioning. Eight hours later, with the illness still racking my body, Mr. Trekker wisely suggested we visit the urgent care just a scant five minutes away.
I’m a fairly healthy person and I usually prefer to allow nature to take its course in these types of situations but, 1000 miles from home, in a strange place, in the middle of vacation, and facing a possible trip to the ER for treatment of dehydration, I decided to heed his astute advice.
I am happy to say the Urgent Care treated us very well–side note, whoever invented Zofran (anti-nausea med) should be Sainted! The medicine worked like a charm and rehydration/rest finally began!
We ended up spending two days at a lovely Fairfield Inn, playing several card games of War and watching COUNTLESS hours of Last Man Standing (the hotel also had a lovely patio I was able to enjoy the next day). See, even a severe stomach ailment on vacation can offer some opportunities for enjoyment (a wonderful traveling partner turned incredible nursemaid didn’t hurt either!)
We still don’t know what made me sick. The urgent care didn’t run any tests, they didn’t seem too concerned about why I was sick, they just wanted to make me better. It could have been heat exhaustion, something I ate or drank, or just the basic flu (Mr. Trekker had ingested basically the same things I had with no negative side effects).
We did drink strange water at the National Park that day that tasted TERRIBLE (due to chlorine) but it was marked for drinking. I have a sensitive stomach and heat sensitivity that I’ve noted in previous posts, but this seemed different. I’m hopeful it was just a badly-timed case of the flu–and continuing proof of our bad luck on this trip–that won’t be making a reappearance any time soon!
By that time we were ready to throw in the towel on this vacation. It just seemed that we were stymied at every turn. We did manage to stop at “The Giant Pistachio” on our way out of Alamagordo—which is exactly what it sounds like. It’s a pistachio ranch with a store where you can buy various food items (including delicious green chile salsa and of course, pistachios). It also has a giant statue of a pistachio out front!
Don’t let frustrations derail your vacation plans
We drove north with plans to cancel the rest of our trip, hit I-25, and be home the next day…however, almost as soon as we left town, the terrain seemed to change. The dry, soulless scrub-land filled with nothing but dirt and cacti that we had been experiencing the last several days transformed into an area that, while still dry, also sported dark green pines, bushes, and tan prairie grass all set against a backdrop of bright red earth! This in conjunction with the sun that had finally broken through the rain clouds, and the desert mountains towering on either side of us as we traversed the valley, brightened our hopes a bit.
We had already canceled our plans in the Great Sand Dunes (see this post for info regarding our rescheduled trip there)*, but I casually suggested to my loyal driver that maybe we could still try to push for Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado…and I got a hearty, “I was just thinking the same thing!” in reply. The Adventure was back on!
*A side note, apparently the last week of May/first week of June is when the Medano Creek runs high from spring snowmelt and it’s an INCREDIBLY busy time at the park. We weren’t aware of that until we canceled the reservations but it is something to keep in mind if planning a visit.
The Flora of Northern New Mexico
This trip allowed me to verify again for myself that the desert isn’t my favorite place to visit. It’s hot…it’s dry…it’s hot…there’s pokey plants…did I mention it’s hot? 😓 I’ve discussed on several occasions that heat and I are not the best of friends, so I was looking forward to trading in the dry deserts of New Mexico for the lush forests of Colorado.
But I learned something along the way…northern New Mexico is absolutely beautiful! The mountains and plains surrounded us in a verdant spring green which contrasted with the black volcanic rocks. I assume we were lucky to be there so early in the summer season so things were still green (it also seemed that they had an unusually wet spring, who would expect to see standing water in fields in New Mexico? We had rain almost every day we were in the state!)
Capulin Volcano National Monument
Did you know there is an extinct volcano in northern New Mexico? From my extremely limited understanding of volcanology, an “extinct” volcano simply means it hasn’t erupted in a REALLY long time…but that in no way ensures another eruption isn’t possible! (For more information on this national monument, click here.)
So, we arrived at the Capulin Volcano, in northwest New Mexico, with plans to hike around it a bit before heading to Colorado for the night. FYI, the park closes at 5:00 pm promptly, even during the summer months. We learned this when we arrived at the park…just as the ranger was locking the gate. *sigh* Seriously, at this point our bad luck on this trip was becoming laughable! 😜
So instead, we took the long way back to the Interstate on back roads, enjoying the beauty and solitude of the northern New Mexican countryside on our way to the hotel in southern Colorado that night. Yes, after 1600 miles, we had finally reached the Interstate (this was by choice. We could have continued on back roads but this was actually a more direct route to our destination and we decided for that short time we wanted to get where we were going quickly).
With that, after five days of chaos, we left New Mexico behind. We do intend to return though, at least to the northern section, as I still want to investigate that volcano and there are more places (like Taos and Sante Fe) we want to explore!
The barren New Mexico countrysideThe scrubland against the mountain backdrop was beautiful!The white mirage shimmering in the distance is the sand dunes at White Sands National Park.
Have you enjoyed any of these destinations? Tell me about it in the comments!
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In this post, I review our adventures while traversing the Great Plains on our 2017 road trip.
The Trekkers had an adventurous, 2017 Road Trip. It included 3500 miles (only 185 on Interstate and that was by choice); two days sick in a hotel with one trip to the urgent care; a nasty road rash; difficulty locating firewood; countless cows; interesting people; beautiful countryside and one “Close Encounter of the Furry Kind”!
We spent two weeks roaming a landscape that spanned almost 1000 miles north to south and almost 700 miles east to west. It was an interesting, frustrating, challenging, exhausting, wonderful trip that I can’t wait to share with you. So, without further ado… let’s get started with our first portion, The Great Plains!
Note: This was more of a sightseeing trip rather than our usual recreational adventures. We did some hiking, which I’ll touch on, but I’ll mostly be drawing attention to family-friendly, roadside attractions available in small towns throughout the Great Plains and the West. I hope this will inspire you to visit these sometimes little-known areas, and that the challenges we faced will encourage you to persevere when the going gets tough (or well-intentioned plans get altered) as grand experiences may be waiting just around the corner.
Carhenge and Chimney Rock in Western Nebraska
On the first day, we visited Carhenge and Chimney Rock (we learned throughout the trip there are several Chimney Rocks in the country). Carhenge is a unique art sculpture in the middle of the Nebraska plains near Alliance.
It looks exactly as it sounds! It is a sculpture made of old, half-buried, American cars arranged in a pattern resembling the ancient European relic, Stonehenge. It’s been on my Road Trip Bucket List for some time, so I was thrilled to visit, and it did not disappoint.
Carhenge
We also stopped at Chimney Rock near Scottsbluff, a key landmark used by pioneers on the Oregon Trail on their westward trek into the frontier. It looks about like the name sounds (the old American Indian name for it basically translates to “elk penis” which is apt as well…hey, I’m just the messenger! 😇)
Chimney Rock
Enders Reservoir State Recreation Area, Enders, Nebraska
The first night we arrived at our pre-determined stop, Enders State Park in southwestern Nebraska. The park is nice, though the website was a bit misleading. It highlighted “showers and modern toilets”. We never found the “modern” toilets–unless in Nebraska a pit toilet is considered “modern”–and the only “showers” we saw were outdoor cement slabs, with drains, that would be suitable for hosing off.
As we didn’t arrive until after six on the Saturday of Memorial Day weekend, there were no attendants on duty and registration was self-pay. That was fine, though it was confusing as to where exactly you should pay as there were multiple entrance points/camping areas.
A Frustrating Road Trip
We encountered quite a few frustrations on the Great Plains portion of our Road Trip…
Lack of Firewood
Unlike the Black Hills, where firewood is available at just about every corner gas station/grocery store, we found locating it in the Plains to be almost impossible. As it turned out, the camp store just outside the park sold firewood, but it closed at 7 pm. We arrived around 6:50, not knowing when the store closed or that it was our only option to acquire firewood. Needless to say, by the time we realized our error…it was about 7:15 (this lousy luck would become a pattern throughout the trip). 😝
Lack of nice tent-camping areas
Enders State Park provides plenty of tent-camping areas, the problem was they were difficult to locate, all terribly overgrown and extremely primitive–to the point where you’d have to walk a large distance or take your car to reach the nearest pit toilet. Fire rings were also not available in the tent camping areas. We ended up disperse camping in a nice picnic area which allowed us a covered picnic table to prepare dinner (there were no signs forbidding us from pitching our tent there and the ranger we saw the next morning didn’t chastise us for our choice).
A surprise event!
Needless to say, by this point, we were getting rather frustrated…not a good way to start the trip. That was until we were packing up for bed, and we noticed faint blue flames in the northern sky, wisps dancing from left to right…the Northern Lights! At one point they resembled pillars rotating around a cylinder, like a campfire. They were eerie, awesome, and utterly beautiful. Needless to say, our bedtime was delayed that night!
Sometimes lousy luck is just a prelude to grand things to come! If we had found a different campsite that wasn’t as isolated or had sat by a roaring fire that night, we may have missed the pale light show dimly burning in the night sky…
On Day 2 we visited one of the most interesting sites I’ve ever seen, Monument Rocks near Oakley, Kansas. These are large, sedimentary rock formations that rise out of the middle of the Kansas cornfields! They reminded me of those found in Badlands National Park. They loom oddly out of place as they rise from the Kansas prairie, though they are quite beautiful.
Monument Rocks
The Keyhole at Monument Rocks
Later, we visited Dodge City, Kansas. For anyone who’s been to the tourist trap that is Keystone, SD, that’s what I was expecting, but on a grander scale. Sadly, I was disappointed.
There was an interesting “Pioneer Town” which offered a museum you could tour, but it was in the middle of town. You could literally see the double arches at the McDonald’s across the street through the clapboard fence. 🙃 The town did have a nice downtown area with trendy shops, but we decided to press on.
Meade State Park, Meade Kansas
That night we attempted to stay at Meade State Parkin extreme southern Kansas, but to no avail. It was our own fault for not making reservations on Memorial Day weekend (and as it turned out it was one of the only state parks in the area), though I was rather glad we didn’t. The place was absolutely packed!
Meade State Park was lovely, shaded, and situated around a lake. Unfortunately, not just every campsite was full, but people were also pitching tents almost on top of each other in picnic areas, music was blasting from every corner, and people were milling about so badly it was difficult to drive through them in some spots…not very tranquil. Needless to say, due to this and the fact we still hadn’t located any firewood*, we ended up having a lovely dinner at Arby’s and staying at a hotel in Liberal, Kansas that night!
*It’s not that we’re terribly unprepared, we intentionally planned to acquire firewood along the way rather than bringing it with us. This is because many parks that we’ve visited out West don’t allow firewood from outside the state due to the concern of spreading pests. As we learned, this was not the case in the Plains. Not sure if the lack of firewood is due to fewer trees on the Plains, or if it’s just that the regulations are so lax everyone just brings their own, but either way, come prepared!
Liberal Kansas
Day 3 was one of the highlights of the trip, we visited Dorothy’s House (along with the Coronado Museum) and the Mid-America Air Museum in Liberal, KS! As it turned out, not camping the night before and having already made the hour drive to Liberal meant we could start the morning touring straight from there!
Dorothy’s House and the Coronado Museum, Liberal Kansas
Dorothy’s house was as cheesy as you can possibly imagine such a place would be…and I absolutely LOVED it! I was impressed with how in-depth it was.
You actually tour a historical home from that area that was built around the time the book, Wizard of Oz, was originally written. It was laid out just like Uncle Henry’s and Aunt Em’s home from the movie.
Then you meander through the Land of Oz, complete with Dorothy as a tour guide. She gave us the choice of hearing the story again or getting random trivia from the making of the movie. The group agreed that we’d all seen the movie so we opted for the trivia!
There was a good amount of movie memorabilia, including the actual model of the home used during the tornado scene. Our tour guide gave us plenty of unique tidbits, but I won’t ruin those surprises. You’ll have to visit this fun roadside attraction yourself if you’re ever in that area and offer patronage to Liberal’s Historical Society to boot!
While we were there we also toured the neighboring Coronado Museum and saw many unique figurines from that era, including some disturbing medical/dental equipment!
Mid-America Air Museum, Liberal Kansas
If you enjoy air museums, this place has quite a bit to offer. It was started by a former pilot from Oklahoma City who donated his collection of over 50 planes. The Mid-America Air Museum offers a mixture of military and civilian aircraft in a spacious, air-conditioned hangar. They put on quite a show for such a small non-profit!
**I was also able to knock two more items off my Road Trip Bucket List in the early part of the trip. I can now say that I’ve visited both Oklahoma and Texas. We only drove through the panhandles of both states, they were flat. 😉
The “Mother Road”, Route 66 in New Mexico
We ended the 3rd night on the famed Route 66 in northeastern New Mexico. Otherwise known as “the Mother Road”, Route 66 was one of the first highways to span the country, connecting Chicago with the California coast, and it’s definitely worth a visit!
Locating the actual Route 66 can be difficult due to the current highway systems (sometimes it runs with a current highway, other times it almost disappears completely). The road has also been re-routed throughout the years, making its “true” location even more cryptic. Truly enterprising adventurers can track it, though a high clearance, 4WD vehicle may be required to navigate what’s left of the pockmarked, scrub-covered pavement in some areas.
Fortunately for us, where the route traverses northeastern New Mexico is one of the easier portions to locate. It serves as the main drag for several small towns—including Tucumcari and Santa Rosa—and parallels I-40 as a service road in this area.
There are still some signs of life on this section of the old road, some still-functioning hotels and gas stations lit with neon lights that maintain the motif of ages past. Without the large, classic cars of that era though, it’s hard to imagine the atmosphere is anywhere near comparable.
Unfortunately, most of the still-standing buildings are dilapidated skeletons of their once-great selves, frequently forming ghost towns with other structures of that bygone era. We ended our 3rd night, traveling Route 66 westward into a bank of thunderheads in Tucumcari, New Mexico.
Route 66, Tucumcari, New Mexico
Have you visited any of these places? Tell me about your experience in the comments!
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In this post, I review the Stratobowl trail near Rapid City, SD.
The Stratobowl Rim Trail is a simple hike near Rapid City that offers spectacular views of the Black Hills and a local, historical site. The Stratobowl is a great trail for a short hike. It’s only around one mile each way, so it’s amenable to almost any skill level.
Where is the Stratobowl?
The Stratobowl is located off Route 16, about a half-mile south of Old McDonald’s Farm. There is no roadside sign highlighting the trail, but there is an obvious parking area just off of Highway 16. If you’re there during daylight hours, it’s likely you’ll see other vehicles.
Hiking the Stratobowl
The path is comprised of simple, rolling hills on an old access road that traverses through pines and offers a prime opportunity for spotting deer and wild turkeys. A substantial logging operation was recently completed there (necessitated by pine beetle damage) so chances of viewing wildlife are now even more likely.
At the trail’s terminus, the road opens onto the rim and the yawning chasm that is the actual Stratobowl. From here, a valley formed by Spring Creek spreads out before you with homes dotting the canyon floor. You’ll also often see vultures soaring the thermals…below you!
The Stratobowl is also a prime place to watch the sun setting over the expanse of the Black Hills (and being so close to town it’s convenient for an evening hike). The name stems from the bowl-like shape of the valley created by the surrounding terrain. The north side of the rim can be reached from several other trails/old logging roads off of Sheridan Lake Road to the north (I discuss these options in this post.)
This setting was the site of high-altitude, manned balloon flights that took place in the ’30s (there are several monoliths on-site detailing these); it also currently hosts an annual hot air balloon launch. Be aware, you may hear the haunting sound of howling wolves when hiking. Do not be alarmed though, wolves are not usually found in the Hills and those you hear are safely contained at Bear County, just a few miles away.
Thank you Mr. Trekker for this sunset shot of the StratobowlThe Stratobowl in the snow!
This trail is perfect for an afternoon or after-work hike, or if you’re just looking for an easier place to take the kids or the dog that’s close to home. It’s gorgeous in almost any kind of weather and the trail is family-friendly. This is another great one to add to your list of fun hikes found near Rapid City!
Do you enjoy hiking the Stratobowl? Tell me about it in the comments!
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In this post, I review the drive on Jenny Gulch Road, in the central Black Hills.
In a previous post, I gave a brief mention to Jenny Gulch Road. It is found off Silver City Road, on the way to the Jenney Gulch boat ramp of Pactola Lake and the tiny community of Silver City.
This gets a little confusing. There are several roads in the Rapid City and the central Black Hills area that go by this name so Google Maps (and possibly other mapping programs) may send you to the wrong place. To be clear, for this post I am referencing the Jenny Gulch Road that follows along Forest Road 261 and runs through a central portion of the Black Hills National Forest, outside of town. It meets up with Broad Gulch Road and runs as far as Rochford Road, both of which eventually lead you to Highway 385, one of the main routes through the Hills.
In the earlier post, I mentioned a large section of the road heads off to the north (and consequently not near Jenney Gulch at all) but we’d never taken that route. I am happy to report we have rectified that issue and I can now give you details of that road, as well!
Jenny Gulch Road offers a nice drive through national forestland. It doesn’t really provide any exciting activity options, but several dead-end forest roads branch off from it which present prime “set-up-your-hammock-and-enjoy-the-quiet of-the forest” opportunities. These would also be some good spots for dispersed camping.
We did learn these are off-limits to vehicle travel and are barred by gates in the off-season (though they’re still available for foot travel).
The road is recommended for high clearance vehicles only and near the northern terminus, I was glad we had the 4×4 with the higher ground clearance. A regular AWD vehicle could probably make it but some of the ruts could cause the situation to become a little dodgy.
This back road is something to think about if you’re looking for a secluded place in the forest to collect your thoughts, and another item checked off of our Black Hills Bucket List!
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In this post, I discuss winter activities available at the Eagle Cliff recreation area, near Lead, South Dakota.
The Eagle Cliff ski area is located on national forestland just outside of Lead, South Dakota. Much like Big Hill, it is a great place for winter recreation (though it provides outdoor leisure opportunities year-round.)
Where is Eagle Cliff?
The Eagle Cliff ski area is located around 10 miles west of Lead, South Dakota on Highway 85, just west of Cheyenne Crossing and the southern mouth of Spearfish Canyon.
The Winter Wonderland at Eagle Cliff
What are the Eagle Cliff trails like?
Eagle Cliff is comprised of a series of 21 trails with multiple trailheads and over 27 miles of possible trail combinations. While this area is open year-round it is primarily used for winter recreation.
Eagle Cliff is available for mountain biking and hiking in the summer but is not maintained at all and tends to become extremely overgrown. When we’ve biked there in the past the grass has reached my knees or higher (while on the bike) in some locations.
You can make a multitude of loops connecting various trails in this area. Watch for the signs the many forest inhabitants that live here leave behind in the snow, including mountain lion tracks/scat. Once we were able to surmise where a big cat had traveled through the fringes of the trees to stalk a herd of deer in the meadow below.
“Here kitty kitty”!
The Eagle Cliff trailheads are Dead Ox, Raddick, Bratwurst, Lily Park, and Sunny Meadow. My personal favorites are Raddick and Sunny Meadow. I especially like a loop made by taking the Raddick Gulch Trail to the Roller Coaster Trail loop. This route is less than four miles in total length and it incorporates undulating hills and a beautiful landscape.
This area is fully forested and doesn’t offer much by way of views, but as it’s protected from the wind, it is usually warmer here and the snow blankets the trees providing an iconic, winter landscape.
This is near Raddick Gulch looking down into the valley where we saw evidence of a mountain lion stalking a herd of deer
Sunny Meadow is–as its name suggests–an open meadow, perfect for skiing or snowshoeing in the winter and biking in the summer (just watch out for the cows and their “leavings” in the warmer months 🤥). This is an absolutely beautiful area with open, rolling hills surrounded by national forestland. Because it is so open, this expanse can be rather windy and chilly in the winter, and due to lack of shade the sun beats down unmercifully here in the summer, so plan accordingly. The only complaint I have regarding this beautiful space is that it is near snowmobile trails (though fortunately they aren’t allowed in the ski/snowshoe area) because their noise tends to shatter the serenity of this snowy landscape.
These are, literally, my favorite places in the Hills for winter sports. Unfortunately, a few years ago, they closed these areas for snowshoeing (my favorite winter sport). They are now only open for cross-country skiing and Raddick Gulch is a bit too steep for my menial XX-skiing skills. This was because there were issues with snowshoers messing up the ski trails. This is why we can’t have nice things! 😒 (FYI snowshoeing is only allowed off of the main, Eagle Cliff trailhead. There is a large parking lot and a sign for it. 😀)
What activities can you enjoy at Eagle Cliff?
Although both snowshoeing and cross-country skiing are available in this area in the winter, there is only one groomed ski trail. Similar to the Big Hill trails near Spearfish, this portion of the Black Hills usually receives some of the largest amounts of snow each winter. This means that even if the ground is bare in Spearfish, Rapid City, or other lower elevations, it’s a good bet that there will be snow at these higher altitudes (oftentimes, A LOT of it)–It’s not unusual to step over the top of gates in the winter that you walk through in the summer or to see the trail signs that are at eye level in summer at boot level in winter. 😮
One of the old forest roads available for snowshoeing or cross-country skiing
So, if you’re looking for a great place to enjoy winter sports that is both beautiful and quiet, check out the Eagle Cliff ski area!
Have you enjoyed winter Sports at Eagle Cliff? Tell me about your experience in the comments!
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In this post, I discuss winter activities available at the Big Hill recreation area, in the northern Black Hills.
Big Hill is a recreation area located in the Black Hills National Forest that offers outdoor, leisure opportunities year-round. The prime activities enjoyed here are cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and fat-biking in the winter, though people regularly hike and mountain bike here during the summer months, as well.
Where is Big Hill?
The Big Hill recreation area is located southwest of Spearfish, in the northern Black Hills. The easiest way to reach the main trailhead is to take Exit 8, off of I-90, for McGuigan Road. Take this south until you reach the T-intersection with Tinton Road. Turn right at the intersection to drive up the hill.
After about 8 miles, watch for a VERY tiny brown sign on the right-hand side of the road showing a hiker. Shortly after this sign, at the top of the hill, you’ll see a large parking area on your right. (The trailhead is directly across the road from the parking area). It is difficult to miss as there are usually numerous other cars there (especially in the winter).
There are other routes you can take to reach this trailhead–coming from downtown Spearfish–as well as a scenic route coming up the other direction on Tinton Road from the south (from Roughlock Falls Road). While this is a beautiful, scenic drive that I highly recommend in the summer, it should be approached with extreme caution in the winter. This portion of the road is barely maintained for winter driving and is usually at least somewhat snow-covered. We have successfully taken this route in the 4×4 truck in the winter, but it’s not for the faint of heart (though it is necessary if you want to reach the Old Baldy trailhead to enjoy winter activities in that area).
The route from McGuigan Road to the trailhead is usually maintained quite well and can often be reached using a typical, 2-wheel drive vehicle (we made our first trip there in an old Civic). It should also be noted that whether Summer or Winter, all of these dirt/gravel forest roads are dependent on the current weather and their condition can vary greatly (and QUICKLY) as the weather changes.
What is the Big Hill Recreation Area like?
Big Hill offers over 15 miles of trails formed by several different loops/routes (many follow old forest roads) that can be combined in a variety of ways. Trail maps are usually available at the trailhead.
The trails at Big Hill are very well-signed but it’s still best to have a map to help determine the best route for you (the map also indicates the difficulty levels of the various trails). The managers of this recreation area also do a marvelous job of keeping the ski trails and the snowshoe/fat bike/dog-friendly trails separate while ensuring everyone can still enjoy this beautiful area!
Big Hill tends to be one of the snowier places in the Black Hills so you can potentially participate in winter activities here anywhere from October – May (dependent on current snow conditions, of course). We’ve enjoyed snowshoeing here, as well, though there are times the snow isn’t quite deep enough so we tend to favor the Eagle Cliff area for our snowshoeing adventures.
Today, I am focusing on the winter sports available here. I will say though, this area is a must-see in the fall when the yellow Aspens are in full color.
**I mentioned the Eagle Cliff area above. It only has one groomed trail, the rest are just trails cut by outdoor enthusiasts. Big Hill offers machine-groomed ski trails that are better for practicing the fundamental drills of skiing as they are smoother.
Machine-groomed trails require FAR less effort, but I find I enjoy them less. They are more crowded and while faster, I find it’s harder to control my skis. The person-groomed trails require more effort and you’ll move less quickly, but I find the resistance the snow provides aides in control of the skis and balance. So, while the groomed trails are usually recommended for beginners, I’d say you have to decide what is most important to you; ease of effort or less fear of hurtling down a hill uncontrollably…possibly towards a tree. 😳
Warmer the higher up you go?
This area is another example of the complicated, frequently-contrasting weather you can have in the Black Hills. On several occasions we’ve experienced temps in the single digits to low teens in the lower elevations–but it can feel almost balmy with temps in the mid-twenties at Big Hill (that equates to perfectly comfortable conditions when skiing, in the sun, with little wind.) This contrasting weather is due to a temperature inversion. Put in simple terms this basically means warmer air is lighter and floats over cooler air. This makes it warmer the higher you go in elevation. (If you want a more scientific explanation you’ll have to track down Mr. Trekker. 😃)
Snowshoeing vs. Cross-Country Skiing
Snowshoeing is great fun, but it’s HARD work depending on snow conditions (this activity and mountain biking are literally the hardest workouts I’ve ever done).
Cross-country skiing, in contrast, requires far less exertion (and I’ve found that working out with an elliptical during the week is perfect training for this sport as the body motions required for both are very similar).
Anyone who can walk can snowshoe. It takes a little skill to keep from stepping on your own shoes, but once you master that, you’re golden. Cross-country skiing, on the other hand, is FAR more difficult. It requires balance, finesse, and the ability to relax and just “go with the flow”–all characteristics I SORELY lack (“sore” being the keyword as that’s often the result of my endeavors 😝).
I would also argue skiing is more dangerous as you’re moving faster and are more likely to slip/twist something when you fall (and you WILL fall). If you fall while snowshoeing, you pretty much just end up on your rump or fall to the side into a cushioning snowbank. It may be cold, but not really injury-inducing (although your snowshoe could become stuck under a buried log, as I found out at Big Hill one early, spring day…😮 )
We’ve gotten pretty good at most outdoor sports we enjoy, but with skiing, we’re still very much beginners. Standing on a thin object that’s meant to glide quickly and effortlessly does not lend itself to keeping one’s balance. Neither do skis that are as long as I am tall and stick out several feet both in front of and behind you. Not only do you have to learn how to move around without stepping on yourself (similar to snowshoes) but you have to do it while each leg is trying to slide in an opposite direction. 😝
So, if you’re enjoying a snowy weekend at Big Hill, and you see a bumbling idiot barely able to stay upright on their skis..it just might be me! 😇
The best trails at Big Hill
For beginners, I strongly recommend starting with the initial Loop A. It’s a short, groomed trail that just goes in a small circle around a meadow/forested area near the front of the Big Hill trail network. It’s fairly flat with only a few short rises and dips and doesn’t offer much opportunity for falls (though, full disclosure, I have fallen here 😝).
There is another Loop A that goes farther out. This option is also usually groomed. It’s also good for beginners once you get a little more confidence as it’s solely a “green” route–meaning it’s considered “easy”. There are a few steeper slopes, one especially on the right-hand (western) side of the loop as you’re heading out. I’ve had my worst spills in this area and though they were frightening, I’ve left without injury–so far–and haven’t even felt very sore the next day. (A surprise as I was sure my ankles were being ripped from my body when I fell. 😮 )
What will you see at Big Hill?
Big Hill is absolutely BEAUTIFUL no matter the time of year. It offers a mixture of forested and meadowy areas that contain leafless deciduous and evergreen trees, all covered in a soft blanket of snow during the winter. On sunny days you’ll frequently hear birds chirping in the trees, and the ever-present, South Dakota breeze rustling through the pines provides a respite from the deafening, snowy silence. In the fall, this area offers a warm glow with the bronze meadowgrass, and glowing, yellow aspens all standing in contrast to the evergreen trees.
This recreation area is far enough from civilization that it offers an incredibly peaceful environment. It is sullied in the winter only by the occasional roar of snowmobiles that also enjoy nearby trails–though not these exact trails. (Fortunately, they focus on the region on the other side of the road so they are usually only really heard when you are near the parking lot.)
If you’re looking for a great place to enjoy some snow sports that is both beautiful, easy to reach, and that offers fun options for everyone, check out Big Hill!
Have you tried the Big Hill Recreation Area? Tell me about your experience in the comments!
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In this post, I discuss activities available above-ground at Wind Cave National Park.
Wind Cave National Park, located near Hot Springs, South Dakota, is best known for the sites it offers below-ground. However, it also provides plenty of opportunities for hiking above-ground, as well!
Hiking trails at Wind Cave National Park
There are several trails found throughout Wind Cave National Park and countless route combinations and loops can be made depending on how long of a hike you are interested in. These include the Rankin Ridge Trail, and one of our favorites, a loop formed by the Lookout Point Trail.
It includes a short skirt where the Sanctuary/Centennial Trails run together and then continues on to the final portion of the hike which is solely comprised of the Centennial Trail. This is all located in the southern portion of the park.
Where is the trailhead for the Lookout Point Trail?
The trailhead we use for this hike (the Norbeck Trailhead) also marks the southern terminus of the 111-mile Centennial Trail. This route traverses the spine of the Black Hills.
The Lookout Point trailhead can be found off Route 87 in Wind Cave National Park. There are numerous ways to reach it but we usually take SD 79 south out of Rapid City, to US 18 west heading to Hot Springs. We then take US 385 north out of Hot Springs until it connects with Route 87 north.
To return to Rapid City you can retrace your steps, or if you’re interested in a longer, more scenic route, you can choose from a variety of options north through Wind Cave, Custer State Park, and the Black Hills. Have I mentioned a map is helpful when adventuring in the Hills? 😉
What You Will See on the Lookout Point Trail
The Lookout Point loop can be completed in either direction though we prefer starting on the Lookout Point Trail (the climbs going this direction are less steep). The hike starts off along a small creek and then almost immediately takes you up a steep hill (fortunately the climb is of relatively short duration and once you reach the ridge above, the terrain is fairly flat for some time).
The correct route through this area isn’t always clear due to NUMEROUS game trails left by the many four-legged critters traveling to the creek for water, so be very watchful so as not to lose the path. The signage on the trail is decent but (even with previous experience) we’ve ended up following well-worn buffalo paths instead of the actual trail. Luckily, we were able to recognize our error early on and quickly correct it.
Once you jump on the Sanctuary Trail portion of the loop (about halfway through), the ecosystem makes a clear change as you descend from the open grassland of the prairie into a forested canyon. The descent is rather steep so take care not to slip on loose scree (or if ice is present).
See if you can spot an unusual item in the Black Hills, cedar trees! They appear to favor this protected, damper area.
This portion of the trail is also characterized by the rock cliffs towering far overhead.
The creek through the canyon
The bottom of the canyon consists of a long, narrow meadow. When you reach the floor of the canyon, be sure to turn left onto the Centennial Trail to keep to the loop (a right turn will put you on the Highland Creek Trail).
There are several prime lunch spots along the creek and watch for remnants of the ungulates (deer and elk) whose bones are scattered throughout this area (whether they met their demise by flood or they were drug here by fanged animals, we will never know).
Follow the canyon and its babbling creek for about two miles until you emerge dramatically into an open meadow. A portion of the Centennial Trail will soon break off on an uphill branch to the right, while you will continue straight along the creek and eventually the trail will curve to the left. It then ascends one final rise which brings you back to the trailhead.
The creek through the meadow (notice how it is just beginning to freeze)
Wildlife on the Lookout Point Trail
Be sure to keep VERY ALERT for buffalo in this area. They are numerous and we see them every time we hike in this park. It is rare that we don’t have to alter our route to skirt a buffalo (or 30). They seem to favor the same trails the humans use so be prepared to go off-trail and give them a wide berth.
Fortunately, this area is highly visible, open prairie so even if you have to go well off-trail you’re usually able to keep at least one trail marker in sight. It’s always advisable to bring a topographical trail map and compass when hiking these areas (or anywhere, really) to assist you in maintaining your direction if you need to go off-trail.
Always remember, if the animal is reacting to you (acting agitated in any way, huffing, stomping its feet, etc.) you are TOO CLOSE and should move away (calmly and slowly) as soon as possible. As long as the animal’s space is respected there are rarely any altercations but it should always be remembered that these are wild (not to mention LARGE) animals and they may react aggressively if they feel threatened (this is especially true in the spring when calves are present).
Buffalo on the ridge, near the end of the hike
On this day’s hike the buffalo we saw didn’t even bother to get up and stop chewing their cud as they watched us wander by. We have had buffalo turn to follow our every step until we’re out of sight when calves were present (and we were intentionally skirting them at the time). We’re also often scolded by prairie dogs for “invading” their area when altering our course away from the buffalo.
This brings up another safety point, give the prairie dogs space too. According to the Forest Service, their fleas carry plague (yes, as in the Black Plague) which can be passed to you if you get too close and are bitten by said flea. Also, the animals may bite if they feel threatened, though they aren’t usually aggressive. In addition, rattlesnakes and black widow spiders favor abandoned prairie dog holes (not to mention these holes offer a prime opportunity to twist an ankle if you aren’t careful) so it’s best to treat these “prairie dog towns” with respect, as well.
Be sure to keep a sharp eye out for coyote, elk, and deer in this area as this is prime viewing territory for that type of wildlife. Be careful to also watch trail signs at junctions in these locales as there are several intersections and it is easy to get on the wrong trail.
To Conclude
This entire loop can be completed in about three hours (dependent on your skill level, speed, and how many sightseeing breaks you choose to take). The trail is relatively easy with only short, moderate-difficulty climbs and is around five miles in distance for the entire loop. This area is also lower in altitude than many areas in the Hills and may be easier for the “Lowlanders” to handle. 😉 In the summer, be prepared for unrelenting heat and little shade on the prairie section (though the ever-present prairie wind will offer some respite).
So, when visiting Wind Cave, don’t let the amazing sights below ground deter you from enjoying the numerous opportunities available above ground as well!
Have you hiked in Wind Cave? Tell me about your experience in the comments!
Did you enjoy this post? Pin it!
Like what you read here today? Please feel free to leave a comment, like or share this post! Add your email at the bottom of the page, or the sidebar to the right, to be notified when a new post is published. By signing up for the email list, you will also receive a free copy of the Tranquil Trekker’s Top 10 Tips of Trekking Do’s and Don’ts!
You can also follow the blog on social media by clicking the links below!
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For beginners, I strongly recommend starting with the initial Loop A. It’s a short, groomed trail that just goes in a small circle around a meadow/forested area near the front of the Big Hill trail network. It’s fairly flat with only a few short rises and dips and doesn’t offer much opportunity for falls (though, full disclosure, I have fallen here 😝). 
