In this post, I review two adventures where we learned the value in seeking out the “boring” locales, even on “less-than-ideal” days.
Author’s Note: The Trekkers originally hiked the Robber’s Roost Trail in Custer State Park on a foggy, mild, January day. Many of the pictures below are from that trip. We have since returned in warmer weather and found it to be equally enjoyable so I’ve added a few more pictures!
Is it cold out, or windy, or really hot, or raining…then it’s not a good day to spend outside, right?…or is it?
The Robber’s Roost Trail, in Custer State Park, can be enjoyed in almost ANY weather!
One thing anyone who lives near mountainous terrain can tell you is the weather can change at a moment’s notice–which can be both good and bad–and it can vary greatly between nearby locations. The Trekkers have experienced this frequently.
One particular January day our local area was socked in with heavy, freezing fog. It was a damp, 30ish-degrees so it wasn’t exactly ideal for being out (though the hoarfrost on the trees was beautiful!)
Previous experience has shown us how variable our local weather can be, dependent on terrain. Due to this, we knew the weather in the Black Hills could be far different than what we were currently experiencing in town (being married to a meteorologist who can look up conditions in certain areas helps too 😉). So, we decided to try out the Robber’s Roost Trail in Custer State Park. We knew, at the worst, we would be able to enjoy a pretty drive and could get some nice hiking in, while at the best the weather could be FAR different as we climbed in elevation. Boy, was it!
A Foggy Drive through Custer State Park
As we headed for the park, Mr. Trekker made the prediction that we’d emerge from the fog shortly after passing the entrance sign (where the road begins to gain in elevation)…he was right on the money! (I’m gonna channel Johnny Depp from Pirates of the Caribbean and state, “There’ll be no living with him now.” 😝)
As we headed toward our trailhead, we made several stops for photo opportunities of the gorgeous hoarfrost the freezing fog had left behind. I can’t quite explain why, but that natural occurrence utterly fascinates me. The way the frozen crystals cling to the local flora can cause a smooth piece of bark to look almost furry. It reminds me of the tiny hairs on a spider’s legs.
Isn’t this incredible?
Hiking the Robber’s Roost Trail
When we arrived at our trailhead, the sun was shining brightly, and continued to do so…for the remainder of the afternoon! We had many opportunities to view the fog bank below us, in the lower elevations, but it never reached our altitude until the very end of our trek. By then, we had returned to the car and were wandering about, seeking out prime picture opportunities. 😁
The fog is coming!
It was incredible, watching the fog slowly rise from the lower elevations.
The trail isn’t anything exciting, it’s just an old fire road that winds through prairie land, around and over hills throughout the park, but we had a great time!
The scenery used to be more picturesque, but after the large, Legion Lake Fire that swept through this area in December 2017, this portion of the park now consists, mainly, of a burn scar. For this reason, be aware, that in the warmer months, there is very little shade. You should be prepared for hot conditions.
If you’re looking for some additional fun activities to check out in Custer State Park, click here!
Where is the Robber’s Roost Trailhead?
The trailhead is located in the southern portion of Custer State Park, off of Oak Draw Road (just to the east of the Prairie Trail trailhead). You can reach that road from the southern arm of the Wildlife Loop Road (Route 16A).
The hike just follows an old, forest road, out-and-back, though it can be combined with other old roads, in the local area. These would make for a great hike, horseback, or mountain bike ride. (We’re planning to try this route on our bikes soon!)
Puppers enjoying the hike!You can see the burn scar in the distance
Below is a short video I took, at the end of the hike, of the coyotes’ haunting song that seemed to welcome the fog as it silently slipped back up the mountainside…(turn the sound up for this one!):
Below are a few more pictures of our trek. Thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker, for several of the pictures!
To me, this picture feels otherworldly, like smoke rising from a scorched landscape (it is just fog).Fogbow!Did I mention this trail can get a “bit” muddy? 😳😁
In Conclusion
Don’t be afraid to seek out the “boring” or “go-nowhere” treks, they can sometimes offer some surprises of their own. We enjoyed a great–albeit INCREDIBLY muddy–hike (basically in shirt sleeves)…in mid-January…in SOUTH DAKOTA! Whereas, if we had stayed at home, we may have felt depressed by the cold, damp, foggy day. So don’t be afraid to Get Out While the Gettin’s…Bad!
Have you had a positive experience where you ventured outdoors when the weather was less than perfect? Tell me about it in the comments!
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I review a road trip to Florida, and discuss thoughts I often have on the open road, and why I enjoy lengthy road trips so much!
On an amazing, southeastern road trip one Thanksgiving, the Trekkers experienced 9 days, 13 states, 4,433 miles, 1 snowstorm, 3 seasons and numerous ecosystems. We were invited to spend the holiday in Florida, with family. Neither Mr. Trekker, nor I, had been there in at least a decade, and we realized we’d never visited together.
We also figured out a route that allowed us, both, to check off another item on both of our “bucket lists”…after this trip, both Mr. Trekker and I have visited all 48 of the continental US states! {Note: the Trekkers are currently accepting donations to fund trips to States #49 and #50… 😉–Based on my above statement, you should be able to guess which two states these are. 😉}
Oil Refineries, Route 66 and the Ozarks!
We enjoyed some unique experiences on this trip:
–We saw oil refineries that twinkle across the bays as they hug the coast. I prefer green energy, but, there’s a certain beauty connected with these structures (at least at night).
They remind me of the old, steel factories you see in Gary, Indiana, near where I grew up. There, an eerie, orange glow emanates from them and the reflection glitters on nearby Lake Michigan. In Louisiana, the bays of the Gulf of Mexico proffer a similar effect.
Some of the refineries are HUGE!
–We drove another portion of Route 66! I had forgotten it runs through Missouri until we stumbled on it while surveying the map. We had last seen that route on a trip through New Mexico in 2017.
–I was also able to experience the beauty of the Ozarks for the first time (Mr. Trekker had been there before.) I had no idea how lovely the majority of Missouri and western Arkansas are with their rolling farmlands and forested hills. Fall also runs a little later in those states, so we got to enjoy the late, remaining foliage as well! (Note to the Missouri Department of Transportation, your snow management on your highways could use some work. 😝)
–We experienced multiple seasons on this trip. When we left South Dakota it was 15 degrees out! We enjoyed fall colors in the Ozarks and through beautiful, northern Georgia. Then, at the end of the weekend, we fast-tracked it back to South Dakota to outrun the impending, winter storm that was bearing down on the lower Midwest. 😳
THIS is why we drive rather than fly (this, the TSA and the fact that I hate those cramped machines! 😉)–I’m not afraid of flying, per se, it’s the crashing-to-a-fiery-death-in-a-cramped-metal-tube-from-30,000-feet-up that scares me. 😝
Cross-country travel in a car also allows you to truly experience the varying landscapes and cultures that are present throughout our wonderful country. In addition to the US being a “melting-pot” of various people and religious identities, it showcases a cornucopia of landscapes as well. On every road trip we take I’m always amazed at the various scenes and inhabitants we encounter.
Things you’ll notice when you visit the “Lower 48”:
The South
This region is characterized by cotton fields, salt marshes and flat, coastal plains. Comprising a portion of the “Bible Belt”, folks here are friendly, though they’re often quick to spot that, “ya’ll ain’t from around here are ya?” 😉
The Northeast/New England
Highlighted by rolling, hilly, farmland, heavily-forested mountains and flat, coastal plain; many think of this region as sporting “city-folk” with fast-paced lifestyles. There’s plenty of “country folk” outside the urban centers who may disagree with that assessment, though.
The Midwest and Great Plains
This area is comprised mostly of flat farmland. Many think of it as boring, flyover country. It may not be as exciting as other regions, but this area has a unique beauty of its own. Being that I grew up there, its charmingly simple way of life will always hold a piece of my heart. And you can’t beat their sunsets over the “amber waves of grain” (and cornfields). 😉 The folks who live here, residing fully in the ‘Bible Belt”, are known for their friendliness (and tornadoes! It’s THE place to be, in the country, for storm chasing! 🌪)
The West
I would define the borders of this area as the country west of the Missouri River (excluding the West Coast) and north of the Desert Southwest. In my personal opinion, you can’t beat the beauty of the craggy mountains that are found here. They don’t call this area “God’s Country” for nothing.
In my experience, some of the friendliest people I’ve encountered live in the rural West. This is an interesting contrast to, what can be, a difficult life. Living in the West is a whole other ballgame. The land is rugged, the weather is harsh, and its residents have to be tough. It’s a place that, even in the 21st Century, has to be survived. Maybe this fosters kinship among those who choose to brave its challenges? Here, the weather and nature–both flora and fauna, can, quite literally, kill you. But the people who call this, immensely beautiful and often desolate place, “home”, won’t make you regret a visit.
The West Coast (ie: the western halves of the West Coast states)
It’s amazing how different the various sides of these states can be! The eastern halves of Washington, Oregon, and California are comprised of more rural, scrub and farmland, and the people trend toward a more conservative ideology.
**The two halves are split but rugged mountains!**
The western halves of these states are flatter, far wetter, coastal plains; sometimes ranging to a temperate, rainforest climate. The people who reside there are usually categorized as metropolitan. I was, pleasantly surprised, though, by the light-hearted lifestyle of the LA area.
Texas/the Desert Southwest
Texas is one area I can’t speak much to, as we haven’t spent enough time there for me to get a feel of it (a problem we’re hoping to correct). 🤞 I do know it’s hot and dry, though. 😅 The rest of the Desert Southwest shares characteristics with the West!
The statements above are just generalizations, of course. As we’ve traveled around the country, I’m always amazed how cultures vary within these local regions, as well.
As you traverse the states, rural areas are usually more conservative, and the larger cities tend to trend more liberal. The change from urban to rural can be stark and often occurs quite quickly. Many living in the rural areas of Illinois, Virginia or New York may not feel they have much in common with their counterparts living in the DC suburbs, Chicago or New York City.
“Transplants”, people who move from places like NYC to more conservative states, like North Carolina (and others), make those places a melting pot of cultures and ideologies within their own right. One place we visited several years ago was the small town of Willits, in northern California. It was one of the first places we’d visited in the state, and I was surprised how charming and “Midwestern” it felt.
Let’s embrace our similarities!
What am I trying to get at here? The bottom line is, none of that sh*t really matters. I think we often forget that we’re all in this together. We all vary, but we all share similarities as well. Often times, those similarities aren’t categorized by skin color, religion, politics, etc. Regardless of where we live, what church–or synagogue, or mosque, or temple–we attend (or don’t); who we vote for, or who our favorite sports team is, we’re all human.
We all live in the same, magnificent country. I firmly believe, we’re all, for the most part, good people (one generalization we all share). As our country remains divided on numerous issues politically, religiously, racially, culturally, I think it’s important to keep this fact in mind. THIS is what makes road trips so enjoyable! I LOVE traveling the country, and experiencing how much we all have in common!
The late chef and world-traveler, Anthony Bordain, felt food bonded us, that our connection with it could bridge divides between cultures, religions, politics, etc. I think we need to seek out other “bridges” like this, as well. Whether that be a common love (or hatred? 😳) for a specific sports team, a love of the outdoors, whatever. I don’t care who you voted for in the last election (or if you voted at all); if you cheer for the Yankees or Red Sox; if you say “pop” or “soda”.
I. DON’T. CARE.
Those things aren’t important in the long run. What is important, and what we need to focus on, are the commonalities we all share. We need to seek out the things that unite us, not those that divide us. We need to realize how blessed we ALL are to live in this incredible, messy, complicated place.
We’re all stuck on this big, beautiful, blue ball, hurtling through the dark, cold, emptiness of space. We’re all in this together, so let’s make the most of it, be kind and try to get along, yeah? 🤠
See below for some more pics from our cross-country adventure! (Thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker for some of these):
Drawbridge!Is it just me…A white bird with black feathers sweeping from its head pecks at the sand on a beach. …or does this bird look like Bernie Sanders? 😳I love the moss!State #48 for the Trekkers!The lowest altitude we reached on the trip. You can see my foot is in the Gulf of Mexico if you look in the lower left corner……contrast that with the highest altitude we reached on our road trip the previous summer, at the top of Independence Pass, in Colorado!Seashells!“I got my toes in the water…”
Florida Beaches:
Beach Trekkers!
Goodnight Florida!
What have you learned from traveling around the country (or world)? Let me know in the comments!
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In this post, I review one of my favorite gear items (a car altimeter), as well as a piece of gear no long-term camping trip should be without (a sun shower!)
The car altimeter and sun shower are two items the Trekkers use fairly regularly when car camping/traveling. Neither are must-haves, per se, but they make the trip more comfortable and more fun!
What is a Sun Shower?
A sun shower is simply a reusable, robust, vinyl bag and tube, with a spout and black backing, that you fill with water and leave out in the sun–it looks like a giant water bladder. When you return to camp after a day on the trail, you have warm water and a spigot you can wash with. The device is gravity-powered, so you’ll need to keep this in mind when you’re picking a spot to hang it.
There are various brands and versions of this apparatus, this specific one holds four gallons of water. We’ve found this system works well even to just rinse off, or to have hanging around camp to use to help keep hands and feet clean. (We have found this setup also works well to make sure your fire is out at the end of the evening as you can direct the water more easily than using a bucket).
What is a car altimeter?
Thecar altimeterindicates the elevation you’re currently residing at. This may not be a necessary piece of gear for the average hiker, but it’s fun on a road trip to see just how high (or low) of an altitude you’ve achieved. It’s also one of my favorite gear items, even though it isn’t, usually, essential to regular hikers (those venturing to the truly high altitudes–10,000+ feet–may find it more useful.)
The deviceresponds to changes in barometric pressure caused by weather, as well, so you may have to recalibrate it a little, each day, to maintain the most accurate readings.
Other versions of this instrument are digital, but I like the classic feel of the dial. For amateur interest, this is a fun, portable, way to keep track of elevation changes. It also mounts to the vehicle using velcro, so it can be easily removed and taken on a hike if you’re so inclined.
Below is a close-up picture of the altimeter:
So, if you’re wanting to maintain a higher level of hygiene on your next camping trip, or you want to know exactly why you’re breathing a little harder on the mountain top you’re currently standing on 😳, check into these devices!
Have you used either of these products? What were your experiences? Tell me about them in the comments!
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I discuss our discovery of the ghost town of Spokane, SD near Custer State Park.
There is a really cool, hidden site in the central Black Hills, the ghost town of Spokane, South Dakota! I was surprised how long we lived in the Black Hills before we heard about this location! 😳 (This is likely due to it not being well-publicized, even though it’s very near a major tourist attraction in the local area…)
The site was pretty amazing (it didn’t hurt that the day we visited was GORGEOUS!) I’d encourage you to research the town’s history as it’s pretty interesting. Spokane was an actual town at one point (rather than just a simple mining camp) complete with a schoolhouse and a general store.
While the majority of the buildings have been destroyed by fire and Mother Nature, we think we found the foundation of the old schoolhouse. The only structures still completely standing were a house with some outlying buildings. There is also a root cellar in the main valley and the mine manager’s home still sits on a hill, overlooking the former town that was nestled in the meadow below (or it would overlook the town if there weren’t trees in the way, now. 😉)
The mine manager’s house
Hazards in a Ghost Town
There are always numerous hazards to be VERY cautious of at these sites. Among a few other foundations, metal remnants, and ancient mining equipment, there was also an old well that had been sealed with a cement cover, but this has since been dislodged. While you could see the bottom, a fall of 20 – 50 feet could be deadly, and either way, the rescue operation would be difficult for all involved. (This is another time it’s important to remember you can NOT rely on cell service when in the mountains).
*Let’s talk safety for a bit, shall we? When you visit ruins of old towns, mines, natural caves, etc. safety should be your #1 priority (respect for the site should be a VERY close #2). These buildings can be dangerous. The wood is rotting, most are in the process of falling down. Many have basements/root cellars (that you may not even be aware of). If you fall through the wood into these, you could be seriously injured.
Many of these buildings are also havens for rattlesnakes and other critters who may not appreciate you barging in (a mountain lion could be using a cool, abandoned root cellar as a place to nap.)
Old mines can collapse or cave-ins–even in natural caves–can occur at any time and with little to no warning. I cringe whenever I see pictures of people venturing into abandoned mines. 🤦♀️ So, adventure at your own risk, but, the Trekkers NEVER encourage people to actually venture into any of these structures. They can be enjoyed perfectly well and safely from outside. (You should be watchful even in the outside areas around these old sites. You never know when old holes, sharp metal pieces, or even disgruntled snakes may be camouflaged by the tall grass that often surround the structures.)
This hole in the ground appeared to be constructed, not sure if it was an old well, or what. This is what I’m talking about with safety, though. This hole was in the middle of what used to be the yard, without a cover or barrier around it.
Unique sites in Spokane, South Dakota
One unique aspect of this ghost town (at least compared to others the Trekkers have visited) is the presence of old cars! Most of the towns we’ve toured had heydays in the late 1800s when horse and cart were the primary source of travel. This town hit it’s prime in the 1920s (and wasn’t abandoned until the 1940s) so the unusual site of motor vehicles and evidence of electrical wiring on the buildings felt out of place.
I LOVE this old truck!
Where is the Spokane ghost town?
In order to help preserve the integrity of the site, I’m not going to give the exact directions to this location–other than what is already available with a simple Google search. I will give a few hints though:
It’s near Custer State Park (VERY, near). You can reach the site using Playhouse Road and/or Iron Mountain Road.
There are two entrances to the site. The main entrance, described in Google, requires a half-mile (or so) walk up a steep, rocky, abandoned forest road to reach the valley. We–somewhat accidentally–stumbled on the back entrance with an easy walk of only about 1/8th of a mile to reach the meadow.
The rest of the discovery is up to you (as I said, Google is your friend!)Author’s Note: In recent years the site has become more popular. Unfortunately, that means it’s also been vandalized–it’s too bad there are a few jerks out there who insist on ruining the fun for everyone–Some barriers have been erected in recent years to help keep people away from the buildings to hopefully help mitigate the damage. If you want clearer instructions on how to reach the site, you may contact me via social media as indicated below, or by using my contact form, and I may be able to help you a little more. (I won’t give precise instructions–that ruins the fun!–but I can give a few more helpful hints. 😇)
The mood this site created was pretty cool. The sun-dappled trees and forest floor make shadows flit on the ruins. You can almost smell the musky scent of horse, and hear the horses, wagons–and cars?! 😳–that trundled down the rutted, dirt road, as the wind rattles the dry leaves of the aspen trees that border the ramshackle houses.
While visiting the ghost town, why not check out Iron Mountain Road found nearby, as well?
This location would also make for a creepy adventure during the Halloween season! 👻 The site was pretty haunting, between the dilapidated old cars and buildings, you got a sense that this is what a post-apocalyptic society would look like (I may have been watching too much Walking Dead lately.) 😜
Below are some more pics of our adventure (thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker for many of these)!
To be clear, the house is leaning, not the photographer! 😉
Dishwasher or a washing machine?
I’m loving the old stove! (FYI, those are YEARS of pine cones, left by squirrels, layering the floor in front of it!) 😳
Have you ever visited this unique place? Tell me about it in the comments!
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In this post, I review a trip we took to the Corn Palace in Mitchell, South Dakota.
On a quick trip to the east side of our large state, to enjoy a Metallica concert (the pyrotechnics weren’t tranquil but they were VERY cool!*) we were able to knock another item off my South Dakota bucket list. We visited the Corn Palace in Mitchell, South Dakota! I have to say, while I was expecting something a bit campy and hickish, it was actually pretty cool. 😁
*A note on heavy metal concerts, they wouldn’t appear to be “tranquil” at first glance. However, I find them to be almost meditative…in a sense…
As long as you aren’t being jostled too much by the screaming throngs 😳, the blaring music envelops you and blocks out your other senses. If you close your eyes and let the music take you, it’s almost like being underwater. I find the sensation of sensory deprivation to be calming. It’s like you’re floating, in a sea of sound, gently drifting on the sonic waves. 🎶
Is the Corn Palace really made of corn?
The Corn Palace was originally constructed in the 1890s to help draw people to the tiny town of Mitchell, South Dakota. It was built in response to other, similar sites that were cropping up (no pun intended) around the Midwest. It has showcased stars ranging from Arlo Guthrie to Brittany Spears!
To clear up any confusion, it’s not actually constructed entirely of corn. Apparently, the original palace was fabricated with more corn but was also a haven to rats and not very warm during the–many–cold months on the northern prairie.
The Corn Palace has been rebuilt several times, but, it’s a typical steel and wood building with walls that are covered in variously-colored corn cobs and husks on the outside in designs that change each year (for 2018 the walls celebrated South Dakota weather, much to the delight of the meteorologist, Mr. Trekker!)
I thought this depiction of a tornado was so cool! (You can see that they’re in the process of transitioning the mural into the next year’s design.)
What is the Corn Palace like on the inside?
When you first enter it, it looks like the lobby of your typical high school (or small, college) gym. That then opens into a larger gymnasium/auditorium area where some local college/high school teams play.
The scene took me back to my country roots. The gymnasium reminded me of the one I spent many a Friday night in during my high school years back in Indiana (basketball is big there too, in case you were wondering. 😉)
I was impressed by the wide variety of themes that have been showcased on the walls of the palace throughout the years, relating to natural phenomena, worldwide events (such as the World Wars) as well as the culture and activities familiar to the Northern Plains.
I was also intrigued by the effort required to design and construct the various murals that cover the walls every year. (I can also recommend the YUMMY popcorn sold at the concession stand! 🤤 )
For more information on the Corn Palace, please visit the attraction’s website here. If you’re ever near Mitchell, South Dakota (it’s right off I-90), I’d encourage you to stop in and check out this relic of the past. I think you’ll be glad you did!
Have you ever visited the Corn Palace? Tell me about your experience in the comments!
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In this post, I review a collection of guidebooks the Trekkers have found helpful regarding 4×4 roads and trails in Colorado.
The Guide to Colorado Backroads and 4-Wheel-Drive Trails may have a long name, but these are some of the best guidebooks we’ve used for offroading, in general. (To be fair, I don’t have much experience with books that, specifically, discuss 4WD trails). In this post, I mentioned that we used these books quite a bit during our Colorado road trip this summer.
What makes the books so great?
The book series is composed of two volumes that encompass the central and southernregions, and the northern region of the state and divide the roads and trails into classifications of “easy”, “moderate” and “difficult”. They give incredibly detailed descriptions of the routes (down to the tenth of a mile) and also discuss rules regarding permits needed, unlicensed off-road vehicles, etc.
It should be noted that the books assume that a 4WD vehicle will be used when attempting these roads/trails, So, classifications of “easy” should be understood within that context. We found some (though not all) of the “easy” roads should be approached with care in a passenger vehicle (even higher-clearance vehicles such as my CRV). It should also be noted that even the easiest trail can quickly become difficult if weather conditions deteriorate.
The books tell you what you will encounter on the route
The books’ excerpts describe the types of vehicles that each route can accommodate–a full-sized truck or jeep versus an ATV with a shorter wheelbase, whether or not modifications (such as skid plates, rock sliders, winches, etc.) are advisable. These excerpts also do a good job of differentiating between paved and gravel roads (information we found to be lacking in the Gazetteer), the usual condition of the routes, as well as how surface conditions can vary based on changing weather conditions.
The books give directions on how to reach a route, bug-out options if needed (and if they’re available at all), hazards to watch out for, the best time of the year to experience the trail (as well as when they may be closed, entirely, due to weather conditions), and contact numbers to verify the most updated road conditions.
The route’s length, the highest altitude it reaches, and activities available on or near the trail (availability of camping, hiking, rock crawling, ghost towns to explore, etc.) are also discussed. Color-coded maps are provided in spiral-bound, durable pages that make for easy use in a vehicle (I can vouch for this as the navigator). 😉
According to Amazon, similar books by the same authors are available for other locales as well, including, Moab, Utah, and portions of Arizona and California. I can’t speak for the quality of these volumes, though, if they’re anything like the ones described above (and I have no reason to believe they aren’t), they would be beneficial additions to any gear list if you’re visiting these areas.
So, if you’re itching to get away from the crowds and explore some Colorado backroads, consider these books for your adventure!
Have you ever used either of these books? What did you think of them? Tell me about your experience in the comments!
†As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
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In this post, I review a hot air balloon launch that occurs every year at the historic Stratobowl, in the Black Hills.
The alarm wails and wakes you from a deep slumber, it’s 4:30 am…
…you stumble out of bed and feel for your clothes through sleep-blurred eyes…the dog wonders if you’re crazy for being up before the sun…
…a short drive later and you park along the roadside in an ever-growing line of vehicles, strap a headlamp to your brow, and set off for the mile-or-so-walk to the Stratobowl as, ever so slowly, the darkness perceptibly lessens…
The Stratobowl Historic Hot Air Balloon Launch
This is a really cool annual event that occurs one weekend each year in early September. It is VERY weather-dependent and can be canceled due to the frequent, South Dakota wind. On the days the flight is canceled, some of the balloons are often at least inflated and fly, tethered, several hundred feet above the ground.
I discussed the Stratobowlin a previous post. If, however, you’re unfamiliar with this location, the hike takes you along the Stratobowl rim with a valley that spreads far below you. (The balloons take off from the meadow in this valley.) One of the meadow’s unique aspects is that one of the residents who lives there mows a peace sign in the same field that is the site of the launch. It fits the tranquility of the site–and the Black Hills in general–well. It also compliments the kaleidoscope of bright colors that adorn the balloons.
Our view from the Stratobowl rim. If you look closely enough, you can see the “peace sign” mowed into the grass.This gives you an idea of how far below you the valley floor is
The rainbow of colors from the balloons make for a spectacular contrast against the dark green backdrop of the Black Hills National Forest, where the aspen trees are usually just beginning to take on their autumnal, yellow hue. As the sun rises, it slowly unfurls its light over the tree-covered Hills to the west. The *whoosh!* of the flame-heated air rushing in to fill the balloons then reaches your ears from the basin far below.
If you’ve never seen a hot-air balloon, a large propane tank is attached to a basket. At regular intervals (as controlled by the pilot) the tank springs to life, spurts out a flame, and rushes hot air into the balloon. (A fan also helps with the initial inflating process.)
Hot air rises, so, once it’s full enough, the balloon does as well–yay science! 😝 The pilots can control the altitude of the balloon using this device, allowing for a safe landing, but they can’t control where the wind blows the craft (Someone Else is still in charge of that department 😉). A “chase vehicle” follows the balloon to collect it from whatever field it finally lands in.
I have fond memories of hot-air balloons from my childhood in Indiana. There were several pilots around the local area where I grew up, so these craft were a regular sight in the sky. We also enjoyed several mass-launches at the county fair in the summer. I have one, specific, memory of a balloon flying over my grandparents’ pool so low to the ground that we were able to talk with the pilot (he ended up landing in the field across the road).
Embrace Life’s Simple Pleasures
This is another opportunity to enjoy the simple things in life, not to mention a micro-adventure close to home. It is a family-friendly, free activity, less than a half-hour drive from Rapid City, which requires only the small sacrifice of missing some sleep. But it allows us to enjoy the natural beauty that surrounds us in a unique and easy way.
So again, strive to seek out these simple, everyday opportunities that are present in your local neighborhood (farmer’s markets, county fairs, free events downtown or in local parks, etc.) You’ll be surprised how much fun you can have (and it’s frugal too!) 🤑
You can see the tethers on the dark blue balloon, anchoring it to the ground
Have you ever watched balloons take off from the Stratobowl? What did you think? Tell me about your experience in the comments!
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In this post, I discuss an ancient medicine wheel in the Bighorns!
There is a prehistoric Medicine Wheel hidden in the northern, Bighorn mountains of eastern Wyoming. It was built by the ancient ancestors of today’s American Indian tribes. More than 80 tribes claim the wheel in their oral traditions so it can’t be attributed to any one group or culture, though it’s, obviously, a very sacred site.
What does the Bighorn Medicine Wheel look like?
This is one of the largest, stone medicine wheels in North America (there are at least 150 spread throughout the continent). It’s constructed with a center cairn with spokes emanating from it to an outer circle that connects six, smaller cairns that appear to be strategically placed.
Archeologists aren’t sure of the wheel’s exact age, most estimates date it back at least 800 years, but it could be far older. Archaeological evidence shows human habitation as far back as 12,000 years in this area!
The ranger we spoke with stated the six rock cairns that dot the outer portion of the circle are believed to have a celestial purpose, but the exact function remains a mystery–it is thought that they may have been used during vision quests. The last time the six cairns matched up with celestial markers was at least as far back as the 1700s!
Medicine Wheels are Sacred Sites
Religious ceremonies are still held at the wheel on a regular basis as many tribal members make religious pilgrimages to the site. Some of the ceremonies involve large groups, while others include only a few individuals–two, small, private ceremonies occurred while we were there. Anyone with American Indian heritage can participate in a ceremony.
It’s always enthralling for me to observe religious practices that I’m not familiar with. I’m fascinated by the emotions you see play out on the faces of the participants, and how descriptive their movements can be. I find their actions evoke emotions within me as well. You can actually feel the peace and tranquility emanating from them as they dance, pray, or worship in their own way.
A tour of the wheel may be delayed if a ceremony is occurring, though they usually don’t last longer than 30 minutes, so please be patient and respectful during this time of worship. Numerous religious offerings are tied to the fence that rings the site (or are placed within the wheel itself). Please do not touch or photograph these items directly as they are sacred. It is also requested that people not take photos or videos of the ceremonies, as they are occurring, to respect the privacy of the participants.
Where is the Bighorn Medicine Wheel?
The wheel is located on Forest Road 12, off of US 14A, in the northern part of the Bighorns. It’s about 20 miles from Burgess Junction (where 14A branches off from US 14 to the east) and about 30 miles from Lovell, Wyoming, to the west.
The parking lot is a mile-and-a-half walk from the wheel on a graded, dirt road. The hike isn’t bad, though it is uphill both ways (seriously 😝) and the altitude is over 9,000 feet, so take your time. The site is also above tree line so bring a hat, water, and sunscreen, and be prepared for the ever-present, Wyoming wind. It usually takes an hour or so to complete the entire route. The site is free to visit, though donations are appreciated. Because this is a sacred site, pets are not permitted and must be left in the parking area.
The only thing that marred the experience was the large, FAA radar placed on the adjoining peak (because none of the numerous, other peaks in the surrounding area, that were a little farther away, wouldn’t have worked? REALLY?!) Federal Government, do better! 😤
The incredible view of the Bighorns from the Medicine Wheel site (to the right is the road you hike to reach the wheel)The Medicine Wheel (you can see one of the rock cairns in the foreground to the left)
The Backroads of Wyoming
I’ve suggested before, to always take the scenic route, when time permits. We enjoyed a good bit of that on this trip! We started by taking Route 24, west, from where it branches off near the Island Park campground. We then took Forest Road 408, to BLM Road 1117, on to Hyattville.
This route is listed in the gazetteer as being Hyattville Road, but we saw NO signs reflecting this. Similar to what we’ve found in Colorado, even though a road may be listed as a “major connector”, especially in the gazetteer, this could easily mean the road is actually dirt (sometimes wide and graded, other times little more than a narrow, two-track, high-clearance road that I wouldn’t be comfortable taking an Outback on). 😝
We used three separate maps–the gazetteer, a Bighorns map we picked up at a local, outdoor store, and a road atlas–to gather a–somewhat accurate–estimate of the roads’ actual conditions. Part of the difficulty was the roads traversed National Forest and BLM land in this area, and each department names and maintains their roads differently.
A view from our backroad trip
The drive was very manageable with Mr. Trekker’s Tacoma (any high-clearance, 4WD vehicle could handle it in good conditions). There were no steep drop-offs and no, real, technical obstacles like what we’ve encountered on some of the roads in Colorado. It was also beautiful, ranging from alpine, spruce forests and aspen groves, to dun-colored high prairies dotted with tan and red clay mounds, adorned with the varying greens of the diverse foliage. Rock-rimmed canyons with their gaping mouths open onto prairie grasses far below, while rocky cliffs of various colors traverse throughout, all with the imposing Bighorns as a backdrop.
Here is a video I made that showcases the beauty that is eastern Wyoming.
After leaving the Medicine Wheel, we decided we were game to try a few more back roads. We took another scenic trip, east, on US 14A to Burgess Junction, where we picked up US 14 and took it west. We took that road to Route 17, another “major connector”, that we then took to Alkali Road/BLM Road 1111/Route 228, back to Hyattville (this is a back way to reach the Medicine Wheel from the south).
Again, these road numbers and names were listed on the gazetteer and one of the maps–some of these roads didn’t even appear on the Atlas–but were NOT shown on the actual road. We just trusted the signs that directed us back to Hyattville. You always need to be flexible when taking back roads, as you never know what kind of obstacles or conditions may cross your path. I should also note, there was NO cell coverage in this remote location (and GPS can often be inaccurate), so maps are often times your only option–time to go “old school” folks!
Another road we could have driven was labeled in the Gazetteer as the “Red Gulch, Alkali National Back Country Byway”. We didn’t actually drive it this time–though we returned at a later date to check out the fossilized dinosaur footprintsit leads to! 😯
The Back Country Byway is more of a two-track, high-clearance path, at least in spots. I certainly wouldn’t call it a “main road”. Funnily enough, the roads we took back to Hyattville ended up being in better shape than the back road we brought out from the campground. They were graded, gravel roads that one could expect to travel 30 – 40 mph on (if the rancher in front of us hadn’t decided a slower speed was better. Unfortunately, on those roads, that are only about 1.5 lanes wide, passing really isn’t an option unless the person in front of you is feeling charitable and pulls over. This man didn’t. 😜) So, we enjoyed a leisurely, scenic stroll through the beautiful Wyoming countryside. 😁
After reaching Hyattville we took Route R54 (another graded, well-maintained, gravel road) to Ten Sleep and then got to enjoy the, INCREDIBLY beautiful, US 16 east through Ten Sleep Canyon, back to our campground. (Did I mention, almost all of these roads, despite their varying conditions–with the exception of the highways–had the EXACT SAME indicators on the map? 😜)
The topography of Wyoming is very unique. It’s characterized by the towering Bighorns in the northeast, to the Grand Tetons that criss-cross Yellowstone and the Rockies, in the west. A drier, large, bluff-filled basin sits between Yellowstone and the Bighorns.
Some parts of the state are prettier than others–while the dry, scrubland that surrounds the mountains can be pretty and green in spring, it usually turns rather drab in the later months. The basin area is dotted with oil fields and sketchy-looking, government sites with warning signs plastered on the fences, which can be rather intimidating. 😳
Below are some more pics of our scenic drive:
MOOSE in the Bighorn Mountains!
Earlier that summer, we spent ten days in the Colorado high country during peak season and we didn’t see one moose. Later that fall, we spent ten seconds in the Bighorn mountains of Wyoming (literally), and TWO moose were waiting to greet us when we arrived at our campsite! Bighorns for the win!
Our ungulate friends (this year it was Maggie and Megan)
As I’ve mentioned previously, I’m always surprised at how much this part of Wyoming reminds me of the Colorado mountains. The scenery and critters are very similar, with the added benefit of being half as long a distance from the Black Hills and FAR less crowded than Colorado. 😉
If you’re looking for an amazing, historical site to visit in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming, check out the Bighorn Medicine Wheel!
Have you ever visited the prehistoric Medicine Wheel in the Bighorns? Tell me about it in the comments!
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In this post, I review the Chapel in the Hills, located in Rapid City.
Unlike most of the places I write about, Chapel in the Hills is unique because it is hidden within the limits of Rapid City. This makes it easy to access, even if it is a bit difficult to locate. 😁 As you pull into the parking lot, the Chapel commands your view as it appears, positioned against the hill, dominating over the surrounding landscape.
Where in Rapid City is the Chapel in the Hills?
To reach the Chapel in the Hills, take Route 44/Jackson Boulevard west, out of Rapid City, and then take the first left, past Canyon Lake Park, for Chapel Lane. Stay on Chapel Lane until you reach the gate. There are a few jogs in the route and several roads branch off, so be watchful (there are signs, though a few are small). The chapel is located about 1.5 miles from Canyon Lake Park.
As an aside, if you’ve never visited Canyon Lake Park, I recommend it. It’s a perfect place for a picnic, to walk your dog, or take a jog, and at night, the path is illuminated with lovely, subdued lighting. Just be wary of the MANY geese and their “leavings”, especially on the island in the middle of the lake. 😝
The drive to the chapel traverses a lovely, tree-lined, residential area complete with the 1960s architectural style that is common to the west side of Rapid City. I’m regularly, pleasantly surprised by the picturesque, residential areas around town; not to mention the spectacular views of the surrounding countryside that they bestow–in this case, views of the Black Hills.
What makes the Chapel in the Hills unique?
The campus is cool! The chapel, an ELCA Lutheran church, is modeled after a Norwegian stave church (the Borgund stavkirke, of Laerdal, Norway, to be exact, that was built in the 12th Century), in honor of the Norwegian Lutherans that settled the area. There is also a small visitor’s center that dons a traditional, grass roof that was built in Norway and shipped to Rapid City. The site also sports a small museum showcasing what life would have been like for the church’s parishioners at the time it was built.
The traditional grass roof of the Visitor Center
Weddings are held here and evening vespers occur, nightly, during the summer months. You can visit the websitehere. There is no cost to tour the site, though donations are appreciated.
The architecture of this building is incredible! Intricate wood carvings adorn the walls of the church, both outside and in, and the russet-colored wood contrasts with the vibrant green of the surrounding lawns, the azure blue of the sky, and the sun-dappled trees of the forest backdrop. Flowers of various types colorfully frame the chapel and dot the beds that encircle it while butterflies flit about and bees sip the nectar from the Russian sage flowers. The musty aroma of old wood tickles your nose, while bird chatter surrounds you; the gentle breeze sighs through the boughs of the trees and dry leaves crackle as they are swept past.
The front entrance to the ChapelThe ceiling of the Chapel
A short, peaceful, meditation/prayer path, complete with small, marble statues, traverses a ravine where towering slopes frame three of its sides in the forest behind the structure. I LOVE this place! It is so beautiful and peaceful! It makes for a perfect location to meditate, pray, or just relax. For someone who is spiritual but also delights in nature, it makes for the perfect fusion between the two. It’s an incredibly tranquil, mystical experience. Here, my soul is at peace!
The prayer/meditation path
More pics of the Chapel in the Hills are below:
The Chapel’s commanding front doorIntricate carvings on one of the Chapel’s pillarsThe Chapel altarMy parents, appreciating the interior of the ChapelA bell tower
If you’re looking for a unique, family activity, close to Rapid City, check this location out, I know I’ll be returning!
Have you ever visited the Chapel in the Hills? What did you think? Tell me about it in the comments!
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I review several ghost towns we toured around the Colorado High Country as well as our drive up Independence Pass.
The Trekkers LOVE visiting ghost towns! We try to include them whenever possible on our trips. During our 2018 road trip, we got to check out several awesome ghost towns in Colorado.
Ghost towns give you a true, visual understanding of how people lived “back in the day”. I’m a very visual person so this helps me fully appreciate what the lives of the inhabitants of these towns must have been like. I prefer the towns that are restored, with at least several buildings remaining that you can view. Sometimes, however, the places that are comprised mostly of ruins allow you to use your own imagination of how they must have appeared in their heyday.
Click here for a list of ALL the ghost towns the Trekker’s have visited around the country!
Below is a list of seven ghost towns we visited in central and western Colorado…
Teller City Ghost Town:
This was the first ghost town we visited and the one that required the most effort to access. The townsite is near State Forest State Park, in far northern Colorado, around nine miles south of Gould, on Route 740 (Baker Pass Road). You reach it by driving on a, somewhat rough, 4WD shelf road. (TheGuide to Colorado Backroads† book that I mentioned in a previous post, rates this road as “easy”. I would rate it as “moderate”. A high clearance, 4WD vehicle should be all you’d need to access this site in good conditions).
We didn’t actually complete the 4×4 road all the way to Baker Pass, though we spoke with a local who said it was worth the drive. Alas, daylight was waning (and the mosquitoes were starting to bite!) 😝
The way was fairly well-marked and obvious, but be watchful. The road branched off several times and the correct route was only marked with orange, snowmobile trail markers (this is a snowmachine trail in the winter months).
One plus with this site is that there’s a designated parking area and then you hike a Nature Trail loop to view the remains of the town. Not much is left, but you could almost hear the voices of the patrons visiting the busy shops, and smell the dust kicked up by the wagons as they rolled along–what used to be–a bustling Main Street.
At various places along the trail, markers describe the history of that home or business. At one of the stops, the words of a young girl who came into town one winter night, via the pass, were noted. Her description of the twinkling town lights flickering through the evening shadows was incredible.
Below are a few more pics of the ruins at Teller City (as usual, thanks to Mr. Trekker for several of these):
An old well pit
Coalmont, Colorado:
After leaving State Forest State Park, we visited Coalmont on our way to the Flattop Wilderness area. Only the schoolhouse remains of this dusty hamlet, but from what we could see through the grime-spattered window, it appears to have been restored inside. It would have been neat to be able to view it in more detail!
The townsite is located off of Route 14, southwest of Walden, Colorado and can be reached via either Route 24 or Route 26 (they form a half-moon-shaped loop here). The site is directly off of Route 26.
Remains of an old ranch at Grand Mesa National Forest:
This site is located on top of the mesa, off the Land’s End Road. It is the remains of a ranch that operated in this area long ago. Several cabins, one of which you can walk inside, and an old livestock corral, have been restored. They can be viewed on a Nature Trail loop (it is part of a cross-country ski trail in the snowy months).
The old corral
Pitkin Ghost Town:
This “living” ghost town is located about 27 miles east of Gunnison Colorado. Take US 50, east, from Gunnison, then turn left onto Route 76 in Parlin.
As an aside, we enjoyed several good meals in Gunnison. We had a wonderful breakfast at the W. Café, and, I can attest that the High Alpine Brewing Company makes great pizza!
At about the halfway point on Route 76, you will pass the “living” ghost town of Ohio City. (I call them “living” because some hearty souls are still living in both of these locations!)
The rain was falling fairly heavily as we passed through Ohio City, so we chose not to stop, but Pitkin should definitely be on your list of places to visit! It was one of the more “real-feel” ghost towns we toured as it wasn’t crowded with visitors, and enough of the old buildings have been restored that you felt as though you were actually walking down the town’s Main Street.
The Silver Plume General Store, located on the east side of town at the corner of 9th and State Streets, is a great place to stop for lunch. We certainly enjoyed our burgers from the outdoor grille! Note: Pitkin is the last chance at civilization if you’re venturing onward to Tincup, Cottonwood Pass, the Alpine Tunnel, or St. Elmo ghost town via Tincup Pass.
We didn’t make it to Tincup on this trip, being that Cottonwood Pass was closed for paving. We are hoping to, one day, try the Tincup Pass between Tincup and St. Elmo and hike to the Alpine Tunnel. Another journey for another time, I don’t worry that we’ll be back in Colorado soon! 😁
Below is a short video I took of the hummingbirds near the Pitkin Hotel. I’ve always liked hummingbirds, but I’ve never heard them make this noise outside of Colorado…
St. Elmo Ghost Town:
Everyone we talked to (and all the guide books we read) told us we HAD to visit St. Elmo, and it was, definitely, worth the visit!
The only disappointment I had with this site is that vehicles are allowed to park in the town itself. Its spirit seems to be somewhat ruined when there’s a modern Audi parked in front of Town Hall. 😝 Also, they were restoring several buildings while we were there—which I’m sure is necessary and will be wonderful when it’s completed—but it meant that construction equipment was parked along Main Street. *sigh* Guess we’ll have to visit another time! 😉
As I mentioned previously, if you’re daring, you can reach St. Elmo via Tincup Pass. If you’re looking for a tamer route, you can do what we did and take the long way. For this trek take Route 50 east of Gunnison through Monarch Pass (another great view) and turn north onto US 285 at Poncha Springs. Then take Route 162 west–an out-and-back road (for the less daring among us)–toward the Mt. Princeton Hot Springs resort and on to St. Elmo.
Near this area, there’s also a turnoff for Hagerman Pass Road to the site of another ghost town, Hancock. From there, you can hike to the Alpine Tunnel from the east, though it sounded as though the hike is longer and the view isn’t quite as good as hiking from the west side–we chose not to complete the hike at this time due to time constraints and the monsoon-fueled thunderheads that were threatening.
As I stated previously, since we missed a few ghostly spots this time around, we’ll be putting this area on our “must-visit” list for the future. It’s always a shame when you visit a location and find out you HAVE to come back to explore further (that happens to us regularly on trips, especially in Colorado…have I mentioned that I enjoy vacationing in this state? 😉)
Much to the Tranquil Trekker’s dismay (we DON’T feed wildlife) one unique feature of St. Elmo is that visitors are encouraged to feed the WAY-overly-friendly and almost-aggressive local chipmunks. You can buy food for them at the General Store. 😝
The Cascades Waterfall near Buena Vista, Colorado:
After leaving Saint Elmo, on our way east, back to US 285, we stopped at The Cascades. This is a lovely waterfall that’s just off the side of the road. It’s a beautiful, peaceful location where you can walk right up to the base of the river that creates a picturesque waterfall in this area as it cascades across boulders–hence the name. 😉
Gothic Ghost Town, Crested Butte, Colorado:
I was a bit disappointed by this town. The Rocky Mountain Biological Laboratory bought the town and did an exceptional job of restoring many of the old buildings which the lab uses for its work. This we knew going in… what I hadn’t realized is that the lab has taken over almost the entirety of the townsite. As it’s now, mostly, all private property, it’s almost impossible to tour around and browse the various buildings. 😒
I’m glad the town is being used for something, and I’m thankful to the lab for helping to save its structures, I just wish the historical features were easier to access. And a note to the general store in town: you close by four? In the middle of summer?? On a Saturday??? REALLY?! Afternoons are a good time for people to eat ice cream you know! 😝😳😉
Signs regarding the lab dotted the entire town 😕
You can reach Gothic by taking Gothic Road, Route 317, north of Crested Butte and the ski village. You can’t miss it, this is, literally, the only main road going north of town! 😉 This will also lead you to Schofield Pass that I discussed in this post.
Main Street in Gothic
The General Store with its questionable hours of operation 😝
Independence Ghost Town and Independence Pass:
Independence ghost town is located on Independence Pass (Route 82), around 16 miles east of Aspen, and around 21 miles west of Twin Lakes.
It’s just east of the peak of the Pass itself, and is, actually, easy to miss. It’s below the grade of the road and the two parking pullouts are small and not well-marked. There are, blue, “Places of Interest” signs, but you have to be watching for them. We actually saw the ruins of the mill, on the other side of the road, first.
The townsite is located in a valley, along the Roaring Fork River, framed by the towering Sawatch Range on both sides.
Independence Ghost Town:
This was my favorite ghost town of the entire trip! It’s easy to access as the site is located directly on Independence Pass. You actually park at a pullout on the Pass road and then hike out to the site, so no vehicles marred the view.
The walk into the town site is about one-mile in each direction, on an old, two-track, dirt road. (The hike is pretty easy as there is almost no elevation gain. Beware though, the town site still sits at about 10,000 feet in elevation.) You can see the town from quite a ways off, which helps you to imagine what it must have felt like riding a horse or wagon along that route during the height of the town’s life.
This would have been an incredibly beautiful place to live! (Had it not been so isolated and suffered such extreme weather.)
The old mill in Independence, Colorado. (This is the first building we saw to clue us in that we were “there”.)
I don’t imagine this view was much different when the town was thriving
Independence Pass:
Independence Pass was incredibly beautiful, as well. This one has been on my Colorado Bucket List for some time and it did not disappoint! (It was also the highest altitude we reached on this trip, maxing out at, just over, 12,000 feet!) The scenic overlook and hiking area at the top of the Pass offer, almost, 360-degree views of the Continental Divide, which the Pass spans.
We finally topped 12,000 feet!
You may have noticed I’ve been enjoying using a Sun Company altimeter† in many of these posts. It responds to changes in barometric pressure caused by weather as well as air pressure at-elevation, so you may have to recalibrate it a little each day to maintain the most accurate readings. But, for amateur interest, it’s a fun, portable, way to keep track of changes in altitude–it connects to the vehicle using velcro so it can be easily removed and taken on a hike if you’re so inclined.
I made another videoof our drive up Independence Pass. I think my videographer skills got a “little” better with this one! 🤔
If you’re looking for something fun to do this summer, definitely check out the ghost towns of the Colorado High Country!
Have you visited any of these amazing places? Tell me about it in the comments!
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†As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
Like what you read here today? Please feel free to leave a comment, like or share this post! Add your email at the bottom of the page, or the sidebar to the right, to be notified when a new post is published. By signing up for the email list, you will also receive a free copy of the Tranquil Trekker’s Top 10 Tips of Trekking Do’s and Don’ts!
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