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Mindfulness and the Open Road

Who wants to go on a road trip?

I love going for drives, I absolutely LOVE them. I love lengthy road trips too (as anyone that’s followed this blog for a while should know) but I also love just simple drives around the countryside. It’s hard to describe the feeling of peace and freedom that comes from the open road.

I enjoy drives by myself on winding roads (just me and my Honda, dancing through turns). I also enjoy them with Mr. Trekker, my trusty side-kick, and usually, the primary driver. He’s probably one of the only people I can stand being stuck in a car with for days on end. 😁 (This is another good sign to watch for if you’re considering marrying someone. The question isn’t just can you tolerate, but do you actually enjoy lengthy car rides with your significant other? 😁 )

Can you inherit wanderlust?

I maintain it’s not my fault that I have this crazy obsession with the open road, it’s in my genes. I seem to have inherited my maternal grandfather’s wanderlust. He used to love to “go for a drive”. Oftentimes, he’d invite us grandkids along (it didn’t hurt that this usually meant there was a Wendy’s frosty in your future if you went 😉). I can remember my grandma asking him, “why are you going this way?” His response was always, “I already went the other way!” (Duh! 😉) I firmly endorse this statement!

Mr. Trekker even knows if he’s driving us somewhere, we can’t go the same way twice. Why would we go home the way we came, we already saw that stuff today?! 😝

Can wanderlust be taught?

I don’t think this desire is all Nature though, I blame Nurture, as well. I went on numerous road trips throughout my childhood, with both my parents and grandparents. I rode along with my paternal grandparents, one year when they returned to their home in Kansas after a visit to Indiana. I also rode to Florida for family vacations several times as a child. I even helped my maternal grandparents drive there on a few occasions, as I got older and they started wintering in the warmer climate. My parents and I also took numerous trips to New England over the years, to visit family.

As it turns out, there were times Mr. Trekker and I may have been quite near each other, throughout our childhood, as he grew up near where the family we were visiting lived–we didn’t actually meet until college though. He also shares my love of road trips, probably due, in no small part, to the highway adventures he enjoyed while growing up. His parents took him throughout New England, as well as to countless Civil War battlefields up and down the Eastern Seaboard.

Songs about the Open Road

There are a few songs that well relate my love of the open road (click on the link on each title to hear the full song):

In “Take a Back Road”, by Rodney Atkins, the lyrics state:

…Gotta get outta here, get it all off my mind
And it makes me wanna take a back road
Makes me wanna take the long way home
Put a little gravel in my travel…

These lyrics speak to me because there are times when I feel like I need to escape from the stress of daily life.

…Tear down some two-lane country who knows?
Get lost and get right with my soul…

We shouldn’t be afraid to go the long way through the countryside, things seem to fall back into balance after spending a little time on the open road.

I’ve been cooped up, tied down ‘bout forgotten
What a field looks like full of corn and cotton…
…I need the curvin’, windin’, twistin’ dusty path to nowhere…

I, personally, could never forget the sight of a field. I grew up surrounded by them (and still live by the prairie). But that isn’t the case for everyone. A lot of people are constantly surrounded by a concrete jungle. I think this separation between us and our evolutionary roots with the natural world causes angst for people. Getting out on the open road helps us get back in touch with those roots.

In “Backroad”, by Granger Smith, the lyrics state:

Barbed wire fence carving out a hillside, cutting holes in the midday sun
Like a postcard framed in a windshield covered in dust
I love the rhythm of an old grey blacktop
Steer the wheel, one-handed on a two-lane, hugging that line
I got the windows down, no one else around singin’…

I used to be incredibly outgoing and extroverted. I would get re-energized just by being around other people. These days, I’m still outgoing, but more and more, I prefer quiet and solitude. Mr. Trekker and I can spend several days in the wilderness, with just each other, the pup, birds, deer, moose, and maybe a bear for company. We head into “town”–that can mean very different things in different parts of the country–to restock on supplies and get a shower, and within a day we’re both ready to get back to the solitude again. These days, I get exhausted being around people all the time.

**Working from home the last several years probably doesn’t help my newfound introverted side much. I spend more time alone (or with just the dog) now than I ever used to, which I am PERFECTLY happy about, mind you. I have actually found, now that I’m not around people as much, my patience for them (in parking lots, while driving, in stores) has actually increased. It’s like less exposure to people increases my tolerance level for them! 😂

We hope to someday get property in the Hills. Maybe we’ll live close enough to our neighbors so that we can actually see their house from ours…maybe. 😝 We currently live in town, but at least in the summer, our backyard is walled in by green trees, shrubs, and bushes. I can at least pretend I’m alone. I see pictures of other neighborhoods where the houses are closer together, or the properties aren’t separated by barriers. Or I see pictures in large cities where big buildings block out the sky unless you’re looking straight up. These images just make me cringe! They get my anxious heart pumping! I need room to breathe, ya’ll! (Again, not really my fault. I grew up as a farm girl in Indiana, it only makes sense that I love wide open spaces.) 😁

Granger Smith goes on to say:

Freedom is the miles I’m rollin’ on…
…I feel the wheel like a melody, like a radio dialing in strong
The breeze smells like a summertime hay field’s just been cut
I got the windows down, way out of town singing…

There is freedom on the open road (and the smell of fresh-cut hay is DEVINE!) Don’t just take my word for it. There have been some famous people who have shared my love of it too. John Steinbeck, for example, in his book “Travels with Charlie” (his poodle) comes to mind. In that account, he and Charley enjoy a country-spanning road trip, sleeping out of his truck camper.

Another song that reflects my love for the open road is “My Church”, by Maren Morris. The lyrics of that song state:

…I find holy redemption
When I put this car in drive
Roll the windows down and turn up the dial
Can I get a hallelujah
Can I get an amen
Feels like the Holy Ghost running through ya…
…I find my soul revival…
…Yeah, I guess that’s my church…
…When this wonderful world gets heavy
And I need to find my escape
I just keep the wheel rolling, radio scrolling
‘Til my sins wash away

I get this sentiment. I feel the same way about the open road. I feel refreshed and stimulated when I’m out there. It’s almost a spiritual experience or a spiritual renewal of sorts. I feel so much more relaxed after a good, long drive. It’s like I can breathe again, like I’ve been rejuvenated.

**This is partially why I love being out in nature so much. It’s quiet, it’s natural, it’s solitude, it’s peaceful. You gotta respect it because it can kill you, 😳 but it can also refresh you in a way nothing artificial can. Nature and wide-open vistas are my Xanax!

Oddly enough, I don’t love the Plains because they are too wide open. It’s a bit overwhelming. I love the mountains, but I couldn’t live in them, either. For one thing, the weather can be too extreme. For another, they block the view! I prefer to live in the foothills, they are an almost “Goldilocks”-type region. You get to experience the best of both worlds. The flatter land that leads up to the base of the mountains is open, so you feel like you can breathe, but it doesn’t continue on endlessly. It is reigned in by the rocks (and you can also enjoy mountain views, as well). You also benefit from the protection the monoliths provide from the worst of the weather, and lower altitudes usually also offer more mild weather.

I love taking my car on the winding back roads. It’s fun to drive and it makes you feel like you’re one with the land, it’s like you can finally relax. I LOVE the smells of the country, yes, even “those” smells. Manure is natural too kids! 😉

Below are some more pictures of our travels on the open road. Don’t they just make you feel like you can breathe?:

So, the next time you get the chance, don’t be afraid to get out there and enjoy your own back roads a little!

Do you enjoy long drives in the country? Tell me about it in the comments!

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Solo Hiking is Risky

In this post, I give a personal account that highlights why, I firmly believe, it is a bad idea to venture out into the Wilds alone.

Author’s Note: I’ve touched on this subject before, but I feel it is VERY important so I decided it deserved its own post. My opinion is a little controversial, but I don’t care. Multiple situations we’ve encountered on the trail have fortified this belief…

SOLO HIKING IS VERY RISKY!

I know some people don’t like to hear this but stick with me here. Some of us have an independent streak that is so strong it can, unfortunately, outweigh our common sense at times. 😇

I’m not trying to tell people what to do, obviously, at the end of the day, we’re all adults and we have to make the final decision for ourselves on what is best for us. Only we can determine what risks we’re willing to take regarding our own personal safety. I’m just trying to weave a cautionary tale.

Getting Stuck When Adventuring Alone

Several winters past we were snowshoeing in the Big Hill area on a warm, March day. (That portion of the Black Hills had received another foot of snow from a blizzard earlier in the week.) We were hiking a new portion of the Big Hill recreation area, where new, fat bike and snowshoe trails had been added, that we weren’t very familiar with. Unfortunately, due to its newness, the maps for these trails were a little unclear and not well signed (or if they were signed, the info was buried under several feet of snow). 😝

Accidents Can Happen FAST in the Wild…

We were maneuvering down a gulley, (which may or may not contain a creek bed in warmer months). We thought we might be on-trail, but couldn’t really tell. (You are allowed to venture off-trail in these portions of the national forest, especially in the snow, and we knew our general location, so we were just having fun and exploring). Mr. Trekker had taken the lead and was cutting trail, I was following almost exactly in his footsteps. He took two steps, I took two steps…and my right leg immediately sunk into hip-deep snow.

Normally, this isn’t too big of a deal. It can be difficult to get out, but you just have to work at it. This time, my leg was stuck fast. I could move it around, but my ankle and foot refused to budge. It was in the 40s and sunny that day, so the snow was heavy, wet, and easily packable. (This was one of those days where large ice-balls gather on the bottoms of your snowshoes as you walk. I had sunk to almost knee-depth a short time earlier, and had a little trouble getting out as my snowshoe had created almost a vacuum in the snow.)

So, we weren’t too concerned. We began digging…and digging…and digging…

We finally dug far enough to reach my knee (we learned something from this event…snowshoes make good shovels! 😳) and I kept trying to loosen my foot but to no avail. This was getting a little ridiculous! Also, after several minutes half-buried in the white stuff, any part of my body that was touching the snow was starting to get cold! 🥶

We kept digging and about the time we reached my shin we hit something hard…very hard. We couldn’t tell what it was, other than we wouldn’t be able to move it and my snowshoe was lodged UNDER it. We couldn’t reach my foot–it was enclosed in my hiking boot which was firmly lashed to my snowshoe…and we couldn’t reach the bindings on the snowshoe to free the boot…

…at this point, my claustrophobia started to set in. I DO NOT like being stuck. It makes me feel like I’m suffocating. I had images of sinking into this hole and being smothered by all the *&%$# snow! 😝

I wasn’t too worried about being stuck forever because we knew what we needed to do, and I knew I wasn’t injured…but you start getting a little panicked when the adrenaline from the fight-or-flight instinct kicks in, and that can easily override rational thought. Fortunately, Mr. Trekker, with his IRRITATING AS HELL 😉😉 sense of calm was there to help keep my panic–mostly–at bay. 😝

You May Have to Wait a Long Time for an Outdoor Rescue

It was becoming clear that we’d have to tamp down the snow around where I was stuck to have any hope of getting me out, as every scoop we removed immediately filled in with more snow from other parts of the drift (it was almost like digging in sand). So, Mr. Trekker set about using his snowshoes to make a base around me.

By now I was starting to get uncomfortable. I was getting covered in snow that was blowing back on me from what we were scooping out of the hole. Also, the cold from the snow I was leaning on was conducting through my thin, hiking pants. Fortunately, we had supplies. (Another safety rule, ALWAYS bring extra supplies, even on nice days when you’re venturing onto trails and areas you’re familiar with. You NEVER KNOW when you will need them!)

I had the windbreaker/top layer of my winter coat with me (which is waterproof). I put that on to shield me from the snow blowback. We also always carry a small, 20-year-old rainfly from the first, $30 Walmart tent we ever purchased. (We usually use it as a base to sit on for lunch). Today, it provided a much-needed, extra layer between the cold snow and my tush so I could sit–fairly comfortably–while Mr. Trekker worked to free me.

A deep snow hole with gear spread around the top. A shadow of a person taking a picture covers part of the hole. — The picture doesn’t show the depth of the hole well, but it was close to six feet deep and maybe 10 feet in diameter! The dark spot at the bottom is the log my foot was stuck under. Snow had partially filled in the hole, already, by the time I got free.

FINALLY, my superhero-on-snowshoes was able to tamp down a base of snow around me to work from and then we set about digging further. At some point, we figured out my foot was lodged under a large, fallen tree, and its entirety was buried under FEET of heavy, wet snow. It wasn’t going to move, so I had to. Finally, after about 30 minutes, Mr. Trekker was able to reach the lashings on my snowshoe and unhook them, and I was then able to remove my foot. I was free!!! (We were then easily able to twist the snowshoe around and lift it out.)

To be clear, we never saw the ground. There was snow under the fallen tree, as well, which means that portion of it wasn’t sitting on the ground. (We think there was probably an air pocket around the fallen tree and that’s what I fell into.) So, we don’t know exactly how deep the drift was, but by the end, the snow piled up around me was at least shoulder-height from where I had sunk into the drift. So, it was easily six feet deep at a minimum!

Solo Hiking can be Dangerous

Stuff happens fast out in the Wilds folks. My “event” happened over the course of one step and about two seconds…and it took two, able-bodied adults more than 30 minutes to get me free. I don’t necessarily think I would have died if I had been out there alone. I wasn’t injured (fortunately) and I had full use of my arms and my other leg (as much as I could twist it around). However, it would have been CONSIDERABLY more difficult, and taken considerably more time, to dig out if I’d had to rely on my own devices. This increases the risk factor exponentially for two reasons:

1. 1. With the exception of my hiking boot and the gator covering my calf, the only protection between the entire rest of my leg and large amounts of cold snow was a thin layer of hiking pants (it was a warm day). It was also breezy, so every time we tried to throw snow out of the hole, half of it would blow back in my face and cover me (adding to my wetness). If I had been stuck out there long enough, frostbite could have become a real threat to the areas of my skin that were touching the snow.
  2. Hypothermia was the other concern. Because it was warm and sunny, if I was able to stay above the snow, I stayed reasonably warm. However, digging out meant getting covered in snow and getting wet. It also meant leaning/sitting on cold snow at least somewhat. If it had been 20 degrees–or more–colder, like it usually is when we venture out “shoeing”, the risk would have been even greater. I could have called for help, but that portion of the trail wasn’t heavily used (hence why we had to cut trail). There were also a lot of snowmobilers in the area that day and their noise may have drowned out my cries.

To conclude

So this brings us to my point. Unless you are trekking a heavily used trail at a busy time, (and remember, even popular trails can be isolated at certain times of the day, the week, or the year) solo hiking (or solo-adventuring in any manner) is risky! I know this position is strongly debated, I don’t care, I stand by my conviction. Illness, injury, equipment breakdown, animal attack, losing your way, all these things can happen VERY quickly and easily. Cell service is lost just as quickly, and GPS shouldn’t be trusted either. All it takes is one, nasty rolled ankle, or a fall, to put you in a precarious situation that you can’t get out of on your own, or to leave you stuck somewhere you can’t call for help.

Your furry friend is a great companion, but unless they can search for a cell signal, then dial 9-1-1, and THEN give a good explanation of your location—unlikely—they DON’T count as a trekking buddy. 😜 (A furry friend may have been able to help dig me out in this situation IF you could make them understand what was needed, and then IF you could get them to help correctly–maybe your dog is more well-behaved than ours). 😝

This was one of those unique situations that don’t seem that bad on the surface. I wasn’t injured, I wasn’t sick and we weren’t lost. I just had my leg and foot trapped under a log and several feet of heavy, wet snow (as it was, we ended up “shoeing” around a good bit after Mr. Trekker “recovered” me.) But in other conditions, or if I had been alone, this could have gone bad very quickly.

I’m a firm believer in learning from the mistakes of others (or at least the situations others find themselves in). So please, take my experience as a warning. In my case, we avoided disaster. But had I been alone, and had it been colder (or if I had been injured, God forbid), this could have very easily ended up as a rescue scenario and then only once I was able to raise help.

There was no cell service where I was, and I was stuck so I couldn’t crawl to where there was service. I should also point out, we were less than a mile from a regularly-used road, so we weren’t really out in the wilderness–this wouldn’t have helped my situation either, had I been alone. Likely no one on the road would have heard my cries for help (I was in a gully, they would have been driving by at 50 mph and their windows would have been closed).

Obviously, I can’t force anyone to follow my advice. There is no Adventure Police manning the trails ticketing people who venture into the wilderness alone. But I think we can all logically acknowledge that it IS riskier to solo hike.

Bad things can happen SO quickly and SO easily when we’re enjoying nature. Even on fairly easy trails and/or on good-weather days. A perfectly wonderful day can turn dangerous (or at least problematic) in an instant. I’m not trying to be a killjoy, but I feel very strongly about this. For that reason, I can never endorse someone adventuring alone, anywhere off the beaten path.

I know some people really enjoy going out alone, so you need to make the decision for yourself if it is worth the risk. Also, sometimes, people don’t really have any acquaintances that enjoy these types of activities. This problem is much easier to fix. If you don’t have a trekking buddy, this is a great opportunity to make new friends! Look for groups online or join a meetup group (or start one yourself!)

So my final word on the subject is this: I implore you, please, think twice before going on a solo hike!

And also, sometimes, superheroes wear snowshoes! 😉😘😍

What are your thoughts about the risks of solo hiking? Tell me in the comments!

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An Amazing Southeastern US Road Trip

I review a road trip to Florida, and discuss thoughts I often have on the open road, and why I enjoy lengthy road trips so much!

On an amazing, southeastern road trip one Thanksgiving, the Trekkers experienced 9 days, 13 states, 4,433 miles, 1 snowstorm, 3 seasons and numerous ecosystems. We were invited to spend the holiday in Florida, with family. Neither Mr. Trekker, nor I, had been there in at least a decade, and we realized we’d never visited together.

We also figured out a route that allowed us, both, to check off another item on both of our “bucket lists”…after this trip, both Mr. Trekker and I have visited all 48 of the continental US states! {Note: the Trekkers are currently accepting donations to fund trips to States #49 and #50… 😉–Based on my above statement, you should be able to guess which two states these are. 😉}

Oil Refineries, Route 66 and the Ozarks!

We enjoyed some unique experiences on this trip:

–We saw oil refineries that twinkle across the bays as they hug the coast. I prefer green energy, but, there’s a certain beauty connected with these structures (at least at night).

They remind me of the old, steel factories you see in Gary, Indiana, near where I grew up. There, an eerie, orange glow emanates from them and the reflection glitters on nearby Lake Michigan. In Louisiana, the bays of the Gulf of Mexico proffer a similar effect.

View from a car on a bridge: bright lights shine and are reflected across a bay of water at night — Some of the refineries are HUGE!

–We drove another portion of Route 66! I had forgotten it runs through Missouri until we stumbled on it while surveying the map. We had last seen that route on a trip through New Mexico in 2017.

–I was also able to experience the beauty of the Ozarks for the first time (Mr. Trekker had been there before.) I had no idea how lovely the majority of Missouri and western Arkansas are with their rolling farmlands and forested hills. Fall also runs a little later in those states, so we got to enjoy the late, remaining foliage as well! (Note to the Missouri Department of Transportation, your snow management on your highways could use some work. 😝)

–We experienced multiple seasons on this trip. When we left South Dakota it was 15 degrees out! We enjoyed fall colors in the Ozarks and through beautiful, northern Georgia. Then, at the end of the weekend, we fast-tracked it back to South Dakota to outrun the impending, winter storm that was bearing down on the lower Midwest. 😳

THIS is why we drive rather than fly (this, the TSA and the fact that I hate those cramped machines! 😉)–I’m not afraid of flying, per se, it’s the crashing-to-a-fiery-death-in-a-cramped-metal-tube-from-30,000-feet-up that scares me. 😝

Cross-country travel in a car also allows you to truly experience the varying landscapes and cultures that are present throughout our wonderful country. In addition to the US being a “melting-pot” of various people and religious identities, it showcases a cornucopia of landscapes as well. On every road trip we take I’m always amazed at the various scenes and inhabitants we encounter.

Things you’ll notice when you visit the “Lower 48”:

The South

This region is characterized by cotton fields, salt marshes and flat, coastal plains. Comprising a portion of the “Bible Belt”, folks here are friendly, though they’re often quick to spot that, “ya’ll ain’t from around here are ya?” 😉

The Northeast/New England

Highlighted by rolling, hilly, farmland, heavily-forested mountains and flat, coastal plain; many think of this region as sporting “city-folk” with fast-paced lifestyles. There’s plenty of “country folk” outside the urban centers who may disagree with that assessment, though.

The Midwest and Great Plains

This area is comprised mostly of flat farmland. Many think of it as boring, flyover country. It may not be as exciting as other regions, but this area has a unique beauty of its own. Being that I grew up there, its charmingly simple way of life will always hold a piece of my heart. And you can’t beat their sunsets over the “amber waves of grain” (and cornfields). 😉 The folks who live here, residing fully in the ‘Bible Belt”, are known for their friendliness (and tornadoes! It’s THE place to be, in the country, for storm chasing! 🌪)

The West

I would define the borders of this area as the country west of the Missouri River (excluding the West Coast) and north of the Desert Southwest. In my personal opinion, you can’t beat the beauty of the craggy mountains that are found here. They don’t call this area “God’s Country” for nothing.

In my experience, some of the friendliest people I’ve encountered live in the rural West. This is an interesting contrast to, what can be, a difficult life. Living in the West is a whole other ballgame. The land is rugged, the weather is harsh, and its residents have to be tough. It’s a place that, even in the 21st Century, has to be survived. Maybe this fosters kinship among those who choose to brave its challenges? Here, the weather and nature–both flora and fauna, can, quite literally, kill you. But the people who call this, immensely beautiful and often desolate place, “home”, won’t make you regret a visit.

The West Coast (ie: the western halves of the West Coast states)

It’s amazing how different the various sides of these states can be! The eastern halves of Washington, Oregon, and California are comprised of more rural, scrub and farmland, and the people trend toward a more conservative ideology.

**The two halves are split but rugged mountains!**

The western halves of these states are flatter, far wetter, coastal plains; sometimes ranging to a temperate, rainforest climate. The people who reside there are usually categorized as metropolitan. I was, pleasantly surprised, though, by the light-hearted lifestyle of the LA area.

Texas/the Desert Southwest

Texas is one area I can’t speak much to, as we haven’t spent enough time there for me to get a feel of it (a problem we’re hoping to correct). 🤞 I do know it’s hot and dry, though. 😅 The rest of the Desert Southwest shares characteristics with the West!

The statements above are just generalizations, of course. As we’ve traveled around the country, I’m always amazed how cultures vary within these local regions, as well.

As you traverse the states, rural areas are usually more conservative, and the larger cities tend to trend more liberal. The change from urban to rural can be stark and often occurs quite quickly. Many living in the rural areas of Illinois, Virginia or New York may not feel they have much in common with their counterparts living in the DC suburbs, Chicago or New York City.

“Transplants”, people who move from places like NYC to more conservative states, like North Carolina (and others), make those places a melting pot of cultures and ideologies within their own right. One place we visited several years ago was the small town of Willits, in northern California. It was one of the first places we’d visited in the state, and I was surprised how charming and “Midwestern” it felt.

Let’s embrace our similarities!

What am I trying to get at here? The bottom line is, none of that sh*t really matters. I think we often forget that we’re all in this together. We all vary, but we all share similarities as well. Often times, those similarities aren’t categorized by skin color, religion, politics, etc. Regardless of where we live, what church–or synagogue, or mosque, or temple–we attend (or don’t); who we vote for, or who our favorite sports team is, we’re all human.

We all live in the same, magnificent country. I firmly believe, we’re all, for the most part, good people (one generalization we all share). As our country remains divided on numerous issues politically, religiously, racially, culturally, I think it’s important to keep this fact in mind. THIS is what makes road trips so enjoyable! I LOVE traveling the country, and experiencing how much we all have in common!

The late chef and world-traveler, Anthony Bordain, felt food bonded us, that our connection with it could bridge divides between cultures, religions, politics, etc. I think we need to seek out other “bridges” like this, as well. Whether that be a common love (or hatred? 😳) for a specific sports team, a love of the outdoors, whatever. I don’t care who you voted for in the last election (or if you voted at all); if you cheer for the Yankees or Red Sox; if you say “pop” or “soda”.

I. DON’T. CARE.

Those things aren’t important in the long run. What is important, and what we need to focus on, are the commonalities we all share. We need to seek out the things that unite us, not those that divide us. We need to realize how blessed we ALL are to live in this incredible, messy, complicated place.

We’re all stuck on this big, beautiful, blue ball, hurtling through the dark, cold, emptiness of space. We’re all in this together, so let’s make the most of it, be kind and try to get along, yeah? 🤠

See below for some more pics from our cross-country adventure! (Thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker for some of these):

A drawbridge is raised on a road bridge in the background. The blue water in a bay flows in the foreground and under the bridge. — Drawbridge!

A white bird with black feathers sweeping from its head pecks at the sand on a beach. — Is it just me…

A white bird with black feathers sweeping from its head stands on a beach. — A white bird with black feathers sweeping from its head pecks at the sand on a beach. …or does this bird look like Bernie Sanders? 😳

A large tree (with moss clinging to it) hangs over an old rest stop building — I love the moss!

A road sign is lit by lights at night and reads, "Welcome to Mississippi, birthplace of America's music" — State #48 for the Trekkers!

A radial elevation dial held in a person's hand over water--where a foot sits in the water--reads "0 feet" (sea level) — The lowest altitude we reached on the trip. You can see my foot is in the Gulf of Mexico if you look in the lower left corner…

A radial elevation dial sits on a car consul and reads, "12,100 feet" — …contrast that with the highest altitude we reached on our road trip the previous summer, at the top of Independence Pass, in Colorado!

Multi-colored (mostly white) shells sit on the sand as a wave comes into shore — Seashells!

Two peoples bare feet stand in water to their ankles — “I got my toes in the water…”

Florida Beaches:

The shadows of two people stretch across the beach. Multi-story buildings stand along the beach in the far background — Beach Trekkers!

Goodnight Florida!

What have you learned from traveling around the country (or world)? Let me know in the comments!

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Guide to Colorado Backroads and 4WD Trails: A Book Review

In this post, I review a collection of guidebooks the Trekkers have found helpful regarding 4×4 roads and trails in Colorado.

The Guide to Colorado Backroads and 4-Wheel-Drive Trails may have a long name, but these are some of the best guidebooks we’ve used for offroading, in general. (To be fair, I don’t have much experience with books that, specifically, discuss 4WD trails). In this post, I mentioned that we used these books quite a bit during our Colorado road trip this summer.

What makes the books so great?

The book series is composed of two volumes that encompass the central and southern regions, and the northern region of the state and divide the roads and trails into classifications of “easy”, “moderate” and “difficult”. They give incredibly detailed descriptions of the routes (down to the tenth of a mile) and also discuss rules regarding permits needed, unlicensed off-road vehicles, etc.

It should be noted that the books assume that a 4WD vehicle will be used when attempting these roads/trails, So, classifications of “easy” should be understood within that context. We found some (though not all) of the “easy” roads should be approached with care in a passenger vehicle (even higher-clearance vehicles such as my CRV). It should also be noted that even the easiest trail can quickly become difficult if weather conditions deteriorate.

The books tell you what you will encounter on the route

The books’ excerpts describe the types of vehicles that each route can accommodate–a full-sized truck or jeep versus an ATV with a shorter wheelbase, whether or not modifications (such as skid plates, rock sliders, winches, etc.) are advisable. These excerpts also do a good job of differentiating between paved and gravel roads (information we found to be lacking in the Gazetteer), the usual condition of the routes, as well as how surface conditions can vary based on changing weather conditions.

The books give directions on how to reach a route, bug-out options if needed (and if they’re available at all), hazards to watch out for, the best time of the year to experience the trail (as well as when they may be closed, entirely, due to weather conditions), and contact numbers to verify the most updated road conditions.

The route’s length, the highest altitude it reaches, and activities available on or near the trail (availability of camping, hiking, rock crawling, ghost towns to explore, etc.) are also discussed. Color-coded maps are provided in spiral-bound, durable pages that make for easy use in a vehicle (I can vouch for this as the navigator). 😉

Related Posts: 7 “Must-See” Colorado Ghost Towns, The Best Hidden Gems of Northern Colorado, The Backroads of Colorado, The Drive to Crystal Mill in Colorado

According to Amazon, similar books by the same authors are available for other locales as well, including, Moab, Utah, and portions of Arizona and California. I can’t speak for the quality of these volumes, though, if they’re anything like the ones described above (and I have no reason to believe they aren’t), they would be beneficial additions to any gear list if you’re visiting these areas.

So, if you’re itching to get away from the crowds and explore some Colorado backroads, consider these books for your adventure!

Have you ever used either of these books? What did you think of them? Tell me about your experience in the comments!

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Bighorn Medicine Wheel in Wyoming

In this post, I discuss an ancient medicine wheel in the Bighorns!

There is a prehistoric Medicine Wheel hidden in the northern, Bighorn mountains of eastern Wyoming. It was built by the ancient ancestors of today’s American Indian tribes. More than 80 tribes claim the wheel in their oral traditions so it can’t be attributed to any one group or culture, though it’s, obviously, a very sacred site.

What does the Bighorn Medicine Wheel look like?

This is one of the largest, stone medicine wheels in North America (there are at least 150 spread throughout the continent). It’s constructed with a center cairn with spokes emanating from it to an outer circle that connects six, smaller cairns that appear to be strategically placed.

Archeologists aren’t sure of the wheel’s exact age, most estimates date it back at least 800 years, but it could be far older. Archaeological evidence shows human habitation as far back as 12,000 years in this area!

The ranger we spoke with stated the six rock cairns that dot the outer portion of the circle are believed to have a celestial purpose, but the exact function remains a mystery–it is thought that they may have been used during vision quests. The last time the six cairns matched up with celestial markers was at least as far back as the 1700s!

Medicine Wheels are Sacred Sites

Religious ceremonies are still held at the wheel on a regular basis as many tribal members make religious pilgrimages to the site. Some of the ceremonies involve large groups, while others include only a few individuals–two, small, private ceremonies occurred while we were there. Anyone with American Indian heritage can participate in a ceremony.

It’s always enthralling for me to observe religious practices that I’m not familiar with. I’m fascinated by the emotions you see play out on the faces of the participants, and how descriptive their movements can be. I find their actions evoke emotions within me as well. You can actually feel the peace and tranquility emanating from them as they dance, pray, or worship in their own way.

A tour of the wheel may be delayed if a ceremony is occurring, though they usually don’t last longer than 30 minutes, so please be patient and respectful during this time of worship. Numerous religious offerings are tied to the fence that rings the site (or are placed within the wheel itself). Please do not touch or photograph these items directly as they are sacred. It is also requested that people not take photos or videos of the ceremonies, as they are occurring, to respect the privacy of the participants.

Where is the Bighorn Medicine Wheel?

The wheel is located on Forest Road 12, off of US 14A, in the northern part of the Bighorns. It’s about 20 miles from Burgess Junction (where 14A branches off from US 14 to the east) and about 30 miles from Lovell, Wyoming, to the west.

Related posts: Lake Helen, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming; 4 Don’t Miss Sites in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming; West Tensleep Trail, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming; Camping in the Bighorns

The parking lot is a mile-and-a-half walk from the wheel on a graded, dirt road. The hike isn’t bad, though it is uphill both ways (seriously 😝) and the altitude is over 9,000 feet, so take your time. The site is also above tree line so bring a hat, water, and sunscreen, and be prepared for the ever-present, Wyoming wind. It usually takes an hour or so to complete the entire route. The site is free to visit, though donations are appreciated. Because this is a sacred site, pets are not permitted and must be left in the parking area.

The only thing that marred the experience was the large, FAA radar placed on the adjoining peak (because none of the numerous, other peaks in the surrounding area, that were a little farther away, wouldn’t have worked? REALLY?!) Federal Government, do better! 😤

Panoramic view of a rocky mountainside. Tree-covered mountains spread in the distance under a crystal clear, blue sky — The incredible view of the Bighorns from the Medicine Wheel site (to the right is the road you hike to reach the wheel)

Small stones on the ground form the center and outer portions of a wheel with stone spokes connecting them — The Medicine Wheel (you can see one of the rock cairns in the foreground to the left)

The Backroads of Wyoming

I’ve suggested before, to always take the scenic route, when time permits. We enjoyed a good bit of that on this trip! We started by taking Route 24, west, from where it branches off near the Island Park campground. We then took Forest Road 408, to BLM Road 1117, on to Hyattville.

This route is listed in the gazetteer as being Hyattville Road, but we saw NO signs reflecting this. Similar to what we’ve found in Colorado, even though a road may be listed as a “major connector”, especially in the gazetteer, this could easily mean the road is actually dirt (sometimes wide and graded, other times little more than a narrow, two-track, high-clearance road that I wouldn’t be comfortable taking an Outback on). 😝

We used three separate maps–the gazetteer, a Bighorns map we picked up at a local, outdoor store, and a road atlas–to gather a–somewhat accurate–estimate of the roads’ actual conditions. Part of the difficulty was the roads traversed National Forest and BLM land in this area, and each department names and maintains their roads differently.

Overlooking a rocky cliff with pine trees growing up from below — A view from our backroad trip

The drive was very manageable with Mr. Trekker’s Tacoma (any high-clearance, 4WD vehicle could handle it in good conditions). There were no steep drop-offs and no, real, technical obstacles like what we’ve encountered on some of the roads in Colorado. It was also beautiful, ranging from alpine, spruce forests and aspen groves, to dun-colored high prairies dotted with tan and red clay mounds, adorned with the varying greens of the diverse foliage. Rock-rimmed canyons with their gaping mouths open onto prairie grasses far below, while rocky cliffs of various colors traverse throughout, all with the imposing Bighorns as a backdrop.

Here is a video I made that showcases the beauty that is eastern Wyoming.

After leaving the Medicine Wheel, we decided we were game to try a few more back roads. We took another scenic trip, east, on US 14A to Burgess Junction, where we picked up US 14 and took it west. We took that road to Route 17, another “major connector”, that we then took to Alkali Road/BLM Road 1111/Route 228, back to Hyattville (this is a back way to reach the Medicine Wheel from the south).

Again, these road numbers and names were listed on the gazetteer and one of the maps–some of these roads didn’t even appear on the Atlas–but were NOT shown on the actual road. We just trusted the signs that directed us back to Hyattville. You always need to be flexible when taking back roads, as you never know what kind of obstacles or conditions may cross your path. I should also note, there was NO cell coverage in this remote location (and GPS can often be inaccurate), so maps are often times your only option–time to go “old school” folks!

Another road we could have driven was labeled in the Gazetteer as the “Red Gulch, Alkali National Back Country Byway”. We didn’t actually drive it this time–though we returned at a later date to check out the fossilized dinosaur footprints it leads to! 😯

The Back Country Byway is more of a two-track, high-clearance path, at least in spots. I certainly wouldn’t call it a “main road”. Funnily enough, the roads we took back to Hyattville ended up being in better shape than the back road we brought out from the campground. They were graded, gravel roads that one could expect to travel 30 – 40 mph on (if the rancher in front of us hadn’t decided a slower speed was better. Unfortunately, on those roads, that are only about 1.5 lanes wide, passing really isn’t an option unless the person in front of you is feeling charitable and pulls over. This man didn’t. 😜) So, we enjoyed a leisurely, scenic stroll through the beautiful Wyoming countryside. 😁

After reaching Hyattville we took Route R54 (another graded, well-maintained, gravel road) to Ten Sleep and then got to enjoy the, INCREDIBLY beautiful, US 16 east through Ten Sleep Canyon, back to our campground. (Did I mention, almost all of these roads, despite their varying conditions–with the exception of the highways–had the EXACT SAME indicators on the map? 😜)

The topography of Wyoming is very unique. It’s characterized by the towering Bighorns in the northeast, to the Grand Tetons that criss-cross Yellowstone and the Rockies, in the west. A drier, large, bluff-filled basin sits between Yellowstone and the Bighorns.

Some parts of the state are prettier than others–while the dry, scrubland that surrounds the mountains can be pretty and green in spring, it usually turns rather drab in the later months. The basin area is dotted with oil fields and sketchy-looking, government sites with warning signs plastered on the fences, which can be rather intimidating. 😳

Below are some more pics of our scenic drive:

MOOSE in the Bighorn Mountains!

Earlier that summer, we spent ten days in the Colorado high country during peak season and we didn’t see one moose. Later that fall, we spent ten seconds in the Bighorn mountains of Wyoming (literally), and TWO moose were waiting to greet us when we arrived at our campsite! Bighorns for the win!

Two moose in a field as seen through the trees — Our ungulate friends (this year it was Maggie and Megan)

As I’ve mentioned previously, I’m always surprised at how much this part of Wyoming reminds me of the Colorado mountains. The scenery and critters are very similar, with the added benefit of being half as long a distance from the Black Hills and FAR less crowded than Colorado. 😉

If you’re looking for an amazing, historical site to visit in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming, check out the Bighorn Medicine Wheel!

Have you ever visited the prehistoric Medicine Wheel in the Bighorns? Tell me about it in the comments!

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7 “Must-See” Colorado Ghost Towns

I review several ghost towns we toured around the Colorado High Country as well as our drive up Independence Pass.

The Trekkers LOVE visiting ghost towns! We try to include them whenever possible on our trips. During our 2018 road trip, we got to check out several awesome ghost towns in Colorado.

Ghost towns give you a true, visual understanding of how people lived “back in the day”. I’m a very visual person so this helps me fully appreciate what the lives of the inhabitants of these towns must have been like. I prefer the towns that are restored, with at least several buildings remaining that you can view. Sometimes, however, the places that are comprised mostly of ruins allow you to use your own imagination of how they must have appeared in their heyday.

Click here for a list of ALL the ghost towns the Trekker’s have visited around the country!

Below is a list of seven ghost towns we visited in central and western Colorado…

Teller City Ghost Town:

This was the first ghost town we visited and the one that required the most effort to access. The townsite is near State Forest State Park, in far northern Colorado, around nine miles south of Gould, on Route 740 (Baker Pass Road). You reach it by driving on a, somewhat rough, 4WD shelf road. (The Guide to Colorado Backroads† book that I mentioned in a previous post, rates this road as “easy”. I would rate it as “moderate”. A high clearance, 4WD vehicle should be all you’d need to access this site in good conditions).

We didn’t actually complete the 4×4 road all the way to Baker Pass, though we spoke with a local who said it was worth the drive. Alas, daylight was waning (and the mosquitoes were starting to bite!) 😝

The way was fairly well-marked and obvious, but be watchful. The road branched off several times and the correct route was only marked with orange, snowmobile trail markers (this is a snowmachine trail in the winter months).

One plus with this site is that there’s a designated parking area and then you hike a Nature Trail loop to view the remains of the town. Not much is left, but you could almost hear the voices of the patrons visiting the busy shops, and smell the dust kicked up by the wagons as they rolled along–what used to be–a bustling Main Street.

At various places along the trail, markers describe the history of that home or business. At one of the stops, the words of a young girl who came into town one winter night, via the pass, were noted. Her description of the twinkling town lights flickering through the evening shadows was incredible.

Below are a few more pics of the ruins at Teller City (as usual, thanks to Mr. Trekker for several of these):

A large, dark hole in the ground is circled by rocks and covered by a wrought-iron cage — An old well pit

Coalmont, Colorado:

After leaving State Forest State Park, we visited Coalmont on our way to the Flattop Wilderness area. Only the schoolhouse remains of this dusty hamlet, but from what we could see through the grime-spattered window, it appears to have been restored inside. It would have been neat to be able to view it in more detail!

The townsite is located off of Route 14, southwest of Walden, Colorado and can be reached via either Route 24 or Route 26 (they form a half-moon-shaped loop here). The site is directly off of Route 26.

Remains of an old ranch at Grand Mesa National Forest:

This site is located on top of the mesa, off the Land’s End Road. It is the remains of a ranch that operated in this area long ago. Several cabins, one of which you can walk inside, and an old livestock corral, have been restored. They can be viewed on a Nature Trail loop (it is part of a cross-country ski trail in the snowy months).

An old, wooden fence-surround sits in a grassy, open space just outside a deep woods surrounded by tall pine trees — The old corral

Pitkin Ghost Town:

This “living” ghost town is located about 27 miles east of Gunnison Colorado. Take US 50, east, from Gunnison, then turn left onto Route 76 in Parlin.

As an aside, we enjoyed several good meals in Gunnison. We had a wonderful breakfast at the W. Café, and, I can attest that the High Alpine Brewing Company makes great pizza!

At about the halfway point on Route 76, you will pass the “living” ghost town of Ohio City. (I call them “living” because some hearty souls are still living in both of these locations!)

The rain was falling fairly heavily as we passed through Ohio City, so we chose not to stop, but Pitkin should definitely be on your list of places to visit! It was one of the more “real-feel” ghost towns we toured as it wasn’t crowded with visitors, and enough of the old buildings have been restored that you felt as though you were actually walking down the town’s Main Street.

The Silver Plume General Store, located on the east side of town at the corner of 9th and State Streets, is a great place to stop for lunch. We certainly enjoyed our burgers from the outdoor grille! Note: Pitkin is the last chance at civilization if you’re venturing onward to Tincup, Cottonwood Pass, the Alpine Tunnel, or St. Elmo ghost town via Tincup Pass.

We didn’t make it to Tincup on this trip, being that Cottonwood Pass was closed for paving. We are hoping to, one day, try the Tincup Pass between Tincup and St. Elmo and hike to the Alpine Tunnel. Another journey for another time, I don’t worry that we’ll be back in Colorado soon! 😁

Below is a short video I took of the hummingbirds near the Pitkin Hotel. I’ve always liked hummingbirds, but I’ve never heard them make this noise outside of Colorado…

St. Elmo Ghost Town:

Everyone we talked to (and all the guide books we read) told us we HAD to visit St. Elmo, and it was, definitely, worth the visit!

The only disappointment I had with this site is that vehicles are allowed to park in the town itself. Its spirit seems to be somewhat ruined when there’s a modern Audi parked in front of Town Hall. 😝 Also, they were restoring several buildings while we were there—which I’m sure is necessary and will be wonderful when it’s completed—but it meant that construction equipment was parked along Main Street. *sigh* Guess we’ll have to visit another time! 😉

As I mentioned previously, if you’re daring, you can reach St. Elmo via Tincup Pass. If you’re looking for a tamer route, you can do what we did and take the long way. For this trek take Route 50 east of Gunnison through Monarch Pass (another great view) and turn north onto US 285 at Poncha Springs. Then take Route 162 west–an out-and-back road (for the less daring among us)–toward the Mt. Princeton Hot Springs resort and on to St. Elmo.

Near this area, there’s also a turnoff for Hagerman Pass Road to the site of another ghost town, Hancock. From there, you can hike to the Alpine Tunnel from the east, though it sounded as though the hike is longer and the view isn’t quite as good as hiking from the west side–we chose not to complete the hike at this time due to time constraints and the monsoon-fueled thunderheads that were threatening.

As I stated previously, since we missed a few ghostly spots this time around, we’ll be putting this area on our “must-visit” list for the future. It’s always a shame when you visit a location and find out you HAVE to come back to explore further (that happens to us regularly on trips, especially in Colorado…have I mentioned that I enjoy vacationing in this state? 😉)

Much to the Tranquil Trekker’s dismay (we DON’T feed wildlife) one unique feature of St. Elmo is that visitors are encouraged to feed the WAY-overly-friendly and almost-aggressive local chipmunks. You can buy food for them at the General Store. 😝

The Cascades Waterfall near Buena Vista, Colorado:

After leaving Saint Elmo, on our way east, back to US 285, we stopped at The Cascades. This is a lovely waterfall that’s just off the side of the road. It’s a beautiful, peaceful location where you can walk right up to the base of the river that creates a picturesque waterfall in this area as it cascades across boulders–hence the name. 😉

Gothic Ghost Town, Crested Butte, Colorado:

I was a bit disappointed by this town. The Rocky Mountain Biological Laboratory bought the town and did an exceptional job of restoring many of the old buildings which the lab uses for its work. This we knew going in… what I hadn’t realized is that the lab has taken over almost the entirety of the townsite. As it’s now, mostly, all private property, it’s almost impossible to tour around and browse the various buildings. 😒

I’m glad the town is being used for something, and I’m thankful to the lab for helping to save its structures, I just wish the historical features were easier to access. And a note to the general store in town: you close by four? In the middle of summer?? On a Saturday??? REALLY?! Afternoons are a good time for people to eat ice cream you know! 😝😳😉

No trespassing/no pets signs on a wooden fence. Old cabins sit in an open field within the fence. Rocky mountains are in the far background — Signs regarding the lab dotted the entire town 😕

You can reach Gothic by taking Gothic Road, Route 317, north of Crested Butte and the ski village. You can’t miss it, this is, literally, the only main road going north of town! 😉 This will also lead you to Schofield Pass that I discussed in this post.

Modern cars line both sides of the dirt street. Old cabins sit in front of a rocky mountain far in the background — Main Street in Gothic

Old, brown, two-story building. Sign on front reads, "1880 Town Hall" — The General Store with its questionable hours of operation 😝

Independence Ghost Town and Independence Pass:

Independence ghost town is located on Independence Pass (Route 82), around 16 miles east of Aspen, and around 21 miles west of Twin Lakes.

It’s just east of the peak of the Pass itself, and is, actually, easy to miss. It’s below the grade of the road and the two parking pullouts are small and not well-marked. There are, blue, “Places of Interest” signs, but you have to be watching for them. We actually saw the ruins of the mill, on the other side of the road, first.

The townsite is located in a valley, along the Roaring Fork River, framed by the towering Sawatch Range on both sides.

Independence Ghost Town:

This was my favorite ghost town of the entire trip! It’s easy to access as the site is located directly on Independence Pass. You actually park at a pullout on the Pass road and then hike out to the site, so no vehicles marred the view.

The walk into the town site is about one-mile in each direction, on an old, two-track, dirt road. (The hike is pretty easy as there is almost no elevation gain. Beware though, the town site still sits at about 10,000 feet in elevation.) You can see the town from quite a ways off, which helps you to imagine what it must have felt like riding a horse or wagon along that route during the height of the town’s life.

This would have been an incredibly beautiful place to live! (Had it not been so isolated and suffered such extreme weather.)

Related Posts: Guide to Colorado Backroads and 4-Wheel-Drive Trails: Book Review, The Best Hidden Gems of Northern Colorado, The Backroads of Colorado, The Drive to Crystal Mill in Colorado

The wooden remains of an old structure sit on a hill with a tree-covered mountain in the background — The old mill in Independence, Colorado. (This is the first building we saw to clue us in that we were “there”.)

A two-track dirt road leads over a small, grassy hill. Old cabins in a grassy meadow can be seen far in the distance with tree-covered and rocky mountains in the background — I don’t imagine this view was much different when the town was thriving

Independence Pass:

Independence Pass was incredibly beautiful, as well. This one has been on my Colorado Bucket List for some time and it did not disappoint! (It was also the highest altitude we reached on this trip, maxing out at, just over, 12,000 feet!) The scenic overlook and hiking area at the top of the Pass offer, almost, 360-degree views of the Continental Divide, which the Pass spans.

An analog device sits on a vehicle dashboard. It's dial is pointed to just over 12,000 feet — We finally topped 12,000 feet!

You may have noticed I’ve been enjoying using a Sun Company altimeter† in many of these posts. It responds to changes in barometric pressure caused by weather as well as air pressure at-elevation, so you may have to recalibrate it a little each day to maintain the most accurate readings. But, for amateur interest, it’s a fun, portable, way to keep track of changes in altitude–it connects to the vehicle using velcro so it can be easily removed and taken on a hike if you’re so inclined.

I made another video of our drive up Independence Pass. I think my videographer skills got a “little” better with this one! 🤔

If you’re looking for something fun to do this summer, definitely check out the ghost towns of the Colorado High Country!

Have you visited any of these amazing places? Tell me about it in the comments!

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The Backroads of Colorado

This post outlines our adventures on several Colorado backroads, including some at State Forest State Park and around the Crested Butte area.

On our 2018 road trip in the Colorado High Country, we really wanted to improve our 4×4 driving (and navigation) skills. Fortunately, there are a number of backroads in Colorado that are perfect for this!

One series of books we found to be incredibly helpful is A Guide to Colorado Backroads†. It’s actually a series of books covering the northern, central, and southern regions of the state. These provide helpful information on the roads and trails including their difficulty level, equipment needed to successfully complete them, and details on each of the routes’ conditions.

Below is a listing of the new roads we enjoyed:

Montgomery Pass Road, State Forest State Park

The first road we mastered, the Montgomery Pass Road at State Forest State Park, ended up being the most technical route we attempted on the entire trip. This out-and-back trek is listed as “moderate” in the guidebook. It was fun, though, definitely, challenging. A high clearance, 4WD vehicle is required and skid plates are an added benefit–we were VERY glad for them as we scraped across one particular rock. Several spots even required me to exit the vehicle and play “spotter” for Mr. Trekker to assist him in navigating the obstacles…it was fun! 😁 The road was wide, with room to pass in most spots, and mostly traversed the forest, so, it lacked the stomach-churning shelf roads we experienced on much of the rest of the trip.

The road ends before it reaches the top of Montgomery Pass, and the final half-mile or so must be completed on foot. It’s an easy hike (minus the altitude) as the trail is an abandoned forest road. It was windy at over 11,000 feet, but the incredible views of the Never Summer Mountains and the promise of the 360-degree vista at the top provide motivation despite beleaguered lungs.

Hand holding an analog dial showing a little over 11,000 feet elevation — Made it to the top of Montgomery Pass!

The wildflowers had begun to carpet the surrounding meadows while snow still blanketed portions of the nearby peaks (in early July!) Another quality of this wilderness area is that we felt like we had the entire mountain to ourselves on a Monday morning, seeing only two other groups for the duration of the excursion. You can also hike the entire way to the peak from the other side of the mountain. The trailhead is found off Route 14 on the eastern edge of the park.

A small, rock cairn in the foreground with a grassy meadow spreading out behind. A spine of grass and tree-covered mountain peaks can be seen in the distance with occasional spats of snow — The view from the summit

Bockman Road, State Forest State Park

We supplemented the adventure above with a side trip down Bockman Road which intersects the Montgomery Pass Road farther down the mountain. This road was easy, I think my CRV may have been able to handle it if you were careful on a few of the bumpy sections. It was dirt, but wide enough for two vehicles and mostly graded. It made for a fun, relaxing afternoon as a bubbling creek accompanied us for much of the trip, as well as countless more wildflowers (have I mentioned the wildflowers are beautiful in Colorado this time of year?) 😉

Gothic Road near Crested Butte

Probably the most nerve-wracking drive we completed was Gothic Road, from Gothic ghost town to Schofield Pass–I discuss Gothic in this post.

The road is in good condition–a sedan could probably negotiate it. The problem we ran into was that it is a 1 1/2-lane shelf road with a significant drop-off at one side and no barrier–a frequent condition we encountered on Colorado back roads.

When we were there it was also INCREDIBLY busy; filled with 2-way traffic in addition to hikers and mountain bikers. Part of the trouble was that we were there on a weekend in July (our fault, it was just the way the trip itinerary worked out). But the horde of visitors combined with people who are unaccustomed to driving in those white-knuckle conditions made for what felt like a genuinely unsafe situation from time to time.

From the top of the pass, a dangerous 4×4 road continues on through the acclaimed “Devil’s Punchbowl” to Crystal Mill–one of the worst 4×4 accidents in Colorado history occurred on this road. We chose NOT to take that route, 😝 but check out this post for the 4×4 adventure we had on Forest Road 314 from Marble to Crystal Mill!

Schofield Pass and Slate River Road

Once we reached Schofield Pass, we completed the loop via Slate River Road (Forest Road 734) through Paradise Divide. This section was not only FAR quieter and more relaxing, but it was also one of the most scenic drives I’ve ever been on (it made the other half of the loop worth the gray hairs). 😉

Pine trees frame the rugged slopes of green, tree-covered mountains in the background — Paradise Divide

Showcasing towering mountains donning green meadows, grass-covered avalanche chutes, and streaming rivers fueled by snowmelt, this drive is incredible! We were fortunate enough to grab one of the last remaining dispersed campsites in this area that was nestled right next to a small canyon. We fell asleep listening to the water coursing through it that night!

Short, green, tree and grass-covered canyon walls with a small stream/waterfall flowing among them — Waterfall along Paradise Divide

An orange rooftop tent sits on a trailer in front of a truck with an awning. This is in a clearing with tall pine trees surrounding it — Our campsite

Below is a video I took of the Divide. Be patient with me, my videographer experience is minimal, the road was bumpy, and this was taken on an iPhone. But…this valley was so INCREDIBLY beautiful, I had to share this with you! You can see why they gave it the name they did! 😎

The drive from Rifle to Grand Mesa Colorado

Even when not looking for a 4×4 adventure, we learned that travel on Colorado back roads can be an interesting experience. We drove the back route from Rifle to Grand Mesa National Forest, taking Dry Hollow Road from Silt. Then we continued, via Route 270, into Colbran and then took Route 121 to enter Grand Mesa the back way.

The drive was lovely! The eclectic scenery transitioned from desert-like scrubland in the Rifle area to aspen forest in the higher elevations, then to rolling farmland in the valleys (that reminded us of Pennsylvania) before ending in the spruce forests that comprise the Grand Mesa area.

Related Posts: Guide to Colorado Backroads and 4-Wheel-Drive Trails: Book Review, The Best Hidden Gems of Northern Colorado, 7 “Must-See” Colorado Ghost Towns, The Drive to Crystal Mill in Colorado

I mentioned earlier that the gazetteer didn’t always differentiate road surfaces well. We found the regular road atlas (and the 4×4 book mentioned above) gave far better indications of what to expect for the actual conditions of the roads…

…In this situation, these routes were indicated to be “major connectors” (and I’m sure they were for that, extremely rural, area). However, this indication included roads that varied from paved and painted to those that are dirt/gravel, with some being extremely rough due to a washboard surface. They were, often, also, narrow and winding (where two, full-size vehicles may struggle to pass). Many also hugged the sides of cliffs on shelf roads. They offered incredible views but may be alarming to people who aren’t accustomed to those conditions.

We had a great time, but I note this so people are aware these conditions can make travel more difficult and may require you to budget additional time to complete the drive.

Green grass and trees in the foreground spreading out to rocky, tree-covered mountains in the background. White puffy clouds on a blue sky — Viewpoint on the road to Grand Mesa from Silt

These portions of our trip were thrilling, nerve-wracking, and challenging. However you manage to do it, whether it be machine-powered by a 4×4 vehicle or using your own two feet, I’d encourage you to venture out onto these lesser-traveled routes (as you are comfortable, of course). You’ll see sites and experience adventures that the average person misses on the more well-traveled highways. It will give you a whole different appreciation for the nature that surrounds us.

Have you ever tried out any of these Colorado backroads? Tell me about your experience in the comments!

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The Best Hidden Gems of Northern Colorado

This post outlines our 2018 road trip adventure around the Colorado high country.

We enjoyed the northern Colorado portion of our 2017 road trip so much, we thought we’d return there for our 2018 summer vacation! This trip turned out far better. No projectile vomiting, no rivulets of blood running down a certain blogger’s leg, almost no injuries at all actually…just many, MANY, mosquito bites. 😜

For six months, we’d planned to complete a grand loop of Colorado’s Hidden Gems; visiting ghost towns, furthering our 4×4 skills, and enjoying the awesome scenery that is, Colorado. Unfortunately, a winter with unusually low snowfall, and a dry spring, yielded a predictable result, wildfires. One entire National Forest was placed under a Stage 3 fire ban and closed to all visitors for a time, while many others were under Stage 2 bans (no fires of any kind with the exception of gas cooking stoves).

Orange tent opened on top of a small trailer, all sitting in a driveway — Our home for the week!

At first, we considered changing the trip entirely as it seemed likely that the beautiful vistas we were anticipating would be marred with heavy smoke, we also didn’t want to be an additional burden to those dealing with the fires on a daily basis. After briefly considering the Montana backcountry, and deciding we’d like to leave grizzly encounters for another trip, 😳 we decided to stick with Colorado. Fortunately, about that time the monsoon season kicked in and the fires began to slacken. We were SO glad we made the choice we did!

Related Posts: Guide to Colorado Backroads and 4-Wheel-Drive Trails: Book Review, 7 “Must-See” Colorado Ghost Towns, The Backroads of Colorado, The Drive to Crystal Mill in Colorado

In an effort to avoid the worst-hit areas, we altered our trip a bit and returned to the northern portion of the state to both State Forest State Park and Grand Mesa National Forest, two locations we had enjoyed so much last year. We again had a great time at both locations!

We experienced dispersed camping for the first time at State Forest, and at Grand Mesa, we enjoyed a lovely campsite within sight of the–albeit low–lake. We got to explore new places like Montgomery Pass (discussed in this post), as well as Lake Agnes, the Crags, the Flattop Wilderness area, and the Land’s End Road at Grand Mesa.

Grassy meadow surrounded by pine trees. Rocky mountains in the background, all under a clear, blue sky. — View from our first dispersed campsite, near the Never Summer Mountains

Wildflowers in the Colorado High Country!

We enjoyed COUNTLESS wildflowers throughout the trip. We’d heard stories about the beautiful flora that carpets the Colorado mountains during summertime but had never been there late enough in the year to experience it. Their colors consisted primarily of red, yellow, purple, and white variations. Their beauty was worth the mosquitoes!

This brings me to another point…if you visit these areas in the summer…buy stock in mosquito repellant first! We’d experienced the little buggers (no pun intended 😇) a little in the past but not during prime season. Those things can, almost, carry you away! And they’re tenacious! They latch on until physically removed and are undeterred by vigorous hand-shaking or other, less forceful methods (which is problematic when you’re using both hands to complete other tasks). I’m all about respecting Nature, but mosquitoes may be the one critter where I draw the line. I just don’t see where they have ANY redeeming value. They’re annoying, they spread–potentially deadly–disease, they do act as a food source for other animals, but aren’t there enough other creepy crawlies for those critters to live on? I mean, COME ON! Is it possible Mother Nature made a mistake with this one? 🤔

Public Service Announcement: While I don’t enjoy smearing poison laden with Deet across my body, as someone who reacts STRONGLY to bug bites–to the point of being woken up by the itching in the middle of the night–I’ll defer to the poison on this one. 😝 There are more natural bug repellants available, but I’d encourage you to be VERY careful with your choices in bear country (especially grizzly country). Anything, with any smell, should be avoided. They claim bears can even be attracted to hand lotion or chapstick that’s been left in someone’s pocket inside a tent. 😮 One perk to the drier areas we ventured through later in the trip was the lack of mosquitoes! 🤭

Colorado Crowds

This trip did reiterate for us, again, how spoiled we are living in the Black Hills. In South Dakota, even during high-traffic times, you can enjoy a weekend in the backcountry without encountering nary another human (unless you bring them along 😉).

In Colorado, we were–somewhat unpleasantly–surprised by the number of human companions we encountered. It wasn’t just busy weekends either. While we were in a heavy-use area, I was shocked that we had trouble finding a National Forest campsite on a Monday. I was rather disappointed by the lack of wildlife we encountered on this trip and I wondered if it was at all due to the higher percentage of people in the vicinity? We spent 2.5 days in the “moose capital of Colorado” and didn’t see one moose (actually, we didn’t see any the entire trip!) 😫 We saw LOTS of marmots, but I was hoping, with intentionally spending time in the backcountry, we would have a higher likelihood of encountering more wildlife. I don’t think the heat was a problem as it wasn’t that hot, and we spent the majority of our trip at-or-above 9000 feet. There weren’t THAT many higher locations for the critters to roam!

We DID see countless bovine–which I dubbed “Colorado Bears” by the end of the trip. 🙄 I’m all about everyone having equal access to our National Forest land; however, the cows got a little annoying. They smell, you have to avoid getting their “remnants” on your shoes, and when you’re looking for exciting wildlife–like actual bears, or moose–and all you see are cows, you get a little discouraged. Maybe some “city folk” find our steak-producing cohabiters interesting, but this farm girl from Indiana was not impressed. 😜

We also learned on this trip that no matter where you go in Colorado, and no matter how remote you think your location may be, you will likely always be in the flight path of some airport. You’d settle down in your tent at night, being lulled to sleep by the, surprisingly, deafening silence of the forest (apparently it’s too cold for crickets at 10,000 feet, even in the summer?), and your reverie is suddenly disrupted by the roar of jet engines flying overhead!* 🤫

*I really don’t mean to complain, we honestly had a SPECTACULAR time on this trip and we’re already looking forward to and planning our next excursion to the Rocky Mountain State (I’ve mentioned before my unbounded love for vacationing there). These are just the things you contemplate after 10 days of suffering from altitude-induced hypoxia and the venom of countless insect bites. 😳😉

National Forest Campgrounds are the Best!

We were also, again, reminded of our love of National Forests on this trip. I’ve mentioned this before, but if you can make do with more primitive facilities at their campgrounds (which usually means no flush toilets, though potable water is often available in the summer months), National Forests are a must-see. They are at least as scenic as National Parks, with far cheaper fees and FAR fewer people. We’ve enjoyed campsites where we fall asleep to the sound of the nearby babbling river, and ones where the moose almost walk through your campsite multiple times per day!

A new “device” we acquired for this trip was a Luggable Loo and Double Doodie Bags (seriously, one of the greatest inventions EVER) and **sun shower, which made the dispersed camping experience far more tolerable.

**A sun shower is simply a reusable, robust, vinyl bag and tube with a spout, with black backing that you fill with water and leave out in the sun. When you return to camp later in the day, you have warm water (it also works well to make sure your fire is out at the end of the evening 😁).

A grassy, rocky meadow full of multi-colored wildflowers, with a small lake in the background, all surrounded by pine trees — I am SO PROUD of this picture. This was an “end-of-the-day-I-was-tired-so-I-jumped-out-of-the-car-and-snapped-a-quick-pic-that-ended-up-being-awesome” picture. 😁

State Forest State Park, the Crags and Lake Agnes:

On this visit to State Forest State Park, we were able to complete the Lake Agnes trail and enjoy the Crags. It’s a fairly short trail, well-graded and not-overly-strenuous. I should caution you though, through many switchbacks you are carried up a fairly decent elevation gain, at 10,000+ feet mind you. 😓

A dirt path traverses a gassy area surrounded by tall pine trees. A rocky, craggy mountain is in the background — The Crags

The entire trail is only about two miles round-trip and the lovely wildflowers that accompany you on your hike, as well as the SPECTACULAR view at the trail’s midpoint, are absolutely worth the effort required to complete the trek.

While it’s still on our list to visit, it reminded me of pictures I’ve seen of Avalanche Lake at Glacier National Park, complete with the turquoise-colored water. This was comforting to me as I was under the impression this color of water is mostly seen near glaciers, and if glaciers continue to recede, it would be a shame if future generations are unable to enjoy this spectacular view.

Serene, blue lake surrounded by green, pine trees and rocky mountains with a little snow left on them. All under a clear, blue sky — Lake Agnes

Flat Tops Wilderness:

We also traversed the Flattop Wilderness Area. It was gorgeous as well! The best way to see this area is to take the Flat Tops Trail Scenic Byway which meanders through the countryside. It Follows Routes 13, and 317, and some county roads (two of them are also called North Fork Road and East Williams Fork Road). The Byway connects the small towns of Meeker and Yampa, in far, northern Colorado. The road system was a little confusing out here. There were some intermittent signs for the Byway but I’d recommend a good map before venturing out this way. (Don’t rely on your phone, it’s easy to lose signal in these rural areas.)

People who take this route should be away, the majority of the “highway” that traverses the wilderness area was a dirt road comprised of a rutted, washboard surface. It wasn’t a difficult drive, we saw plenty of sedans traveling it. The surface choice is understandable as the road is completely closed throughout the winter months, so maintenance during the rest of the year is probably more easily completed on a gravel road. I just want people to be aware if you’re expecting a typical “scenic byway” experience consisting of a two-lane, blacktop road, that isn’t exactly what you’re going to get!

The area was spectacular though, full of sweeping vistas of far-off peaks and valley floors dotted with lakes perfect for fishing and picnicking.

Green, pine-covered mountains stretch to the horizon. In the far-background is a rocky, flat-topped mountai. — You can see where the area got its name

Grand Mesa National Forest:

At Grand Mesa, we had hoped to hike more, but the impending thunderstorms and extreme exposure on our intended trail encouraged us to seek out other recreational options.

Those storms actually produced a small, short-lived, funnel cloud! Accidental storm chasing, on a mesa, with only two escape routes (one a potentially muddy, dirt road), what could possibly go wrong? 😳😉 Fortunately, I had a meteorologist with me who determined the risk to us was slight.

Pine tree-covered mountainside. In the background green trees surround a blue lake with a small, green island in the middle. A craggy, mountain wall is on one side — Island Lake with the Crags Crest off to the left (note: these are different crags than those at State Forest State Park)

Green, pine trees descend the mountain in the foreground. Tree-covered, rocky mountains in the background — The San Juan mountains provide a lovely backdrop to the views at Grand Mesa

We were able to complete the Land’s End Road–also, primarily, gravel, but in much better condition than the previously mentioned Byway. This route takes you to a, now-closed, Observatory. It also proffered an incredible vista of the valley far below and granted a birds-eye view of the interchanging ecosystems that encompass so much of western Colorado. Here, lush forests in the highest elevations transition into scrubland and nearly-desert as the altitude decreases.

We saw some of the friendliest (pushiest?) chipmunks we’d ever encountered on top of the Mesa. The Trekkers believe in keeping wildlife wild so we did NOT feed them. But, evidenced by the mounds of sunflower shells we saw scattered about (and that we watched the critters literally take food from other peoples’ hands), they have been habituated to human contact. The greedy little buggers come at your with cheeks full, begging for more!

Green tree and grass-covered mountains. Drier scrubland covers the lower elevations in the background — The view from the top of the Mesa at the terminus of Land’s End Road

Blurry close-up of the head of a chipmunk, eyes are open — The overly-friendly (and difficult to photograph) chipmunks at the top of the Mesa

Grassy meadow covered in scrubbrush, surrounded by trees. Grey clouds with a small, funnel decending from them are overhead — Funnel cloud at 10,500 feet!

If you’re looking for some hidden gems to visit in Northern Colorado, make sure you check out State Forest State Park, Grand Mesa National Forest, and the Flattop Wilderness!

Have you enjoyed any of these hidden gems of Colorado? Tell me about your experience in the comments!

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Driving the Medano Creek Road at Great Sand Dunes National Park

In this post, I review a 4×4 driving class the Trekkers took and our adventure at Great Sand Dunes National Park.

Author’s note: In a previous post regarding one of our epic, summer road trips, I mentioned we canceled plans at this locale due to me falling ill. I had originally intended this adventure as a present for Mr. Trekker for achieving Tenure, but, since our plans got changed, it ended up being an anniversary trip instead.

The Great Sand Dunes National Park is located in south-central Colorado, near the small town of Saguache. The park is nestled among the beautiful Sangre de Cristo Mountains in the San Luis Valley.

We were able to reschedule our trip for the fall (which consequently is a much prettier time to visit that area due to leaf colors. It’s also less busy and much cooler, all pluses in the Trekker book! Ya’ll know how I LOVE the heat! 😓)

Unbeknownst to us, when we had originally planned to visit, in early June, is one of the busiest times at the park. This is when the creek runs high due to snowmelt in the mountains.

The Great Sand Dunes are situated in a GORGEOUS location!

We woke up the first morning surrounded by a 360-degree view of the rounded peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Gorgeous pictures painted the walls of the rental house, reflecting the spectacular scenery found in the surrounding area.

I’ve waxed lyrical about our love for Air B&B’s before. This choice was a simple, rustic old farmhouse that had been renovated. The kitchen was well-stocked with the cooking equipment/utensils you might need and beautiful cabinetry adorned the walls. The home offered plenty of room for a family to sleep and is centrally located in the San Luis Valley, making an ideal base camp for day treks to the Great Sand Dunes or any hiking, 4×4-ing, or winter sports you want to engage in within the surrounding area.

A small kitchen with charming, wooden cabinets — The adorable kitchen in the rental house

Panoramic view of a reddish sunrise with purple clouds over the dark silhouette of mountains — Sunrise over the Sangre de Cristo range

Related post: Aliens and Sandhill Cranes in the San Luis Valley!

4×4 trails at Great Sand Dunes National Park

We rented a jeep for the weekend and spent Saturday in a hands-on 4×4 driving class. We learned proper tire placement, how to navigate various routes (picking the correct line, sticking to the high ground), as well as acquiring safety tips and how to get ourselves out of sticky situations (such as fashioning a winch using a hi-lift jack to get a vehicle out of a bind).

We then spent Sunday trekking around Great Sand Dunes National Park, driving the Medano Pass Primitive Road, and getting sandblasted on the dunes (it was windy that day!)

Medano Creek, which you cross numerous times when driving the Primitive Road, runs fairly low in the fall which made for easier crossings for us novices. If you want the challenge of higher water crossings early June through summer would be a better time to visit (though there are times in spring when the road is closed due to extremely high water from snowmelt and spring rains.) Also, as the road is two-way but is only one lane wide, there were times we found it complicated to navigate while leaving room for others to pass. I can’t imagine how this challenge may be exacerbated in the crowded, summer months.

Pathfinders 4×4

We rented the jeep through Pathfinders 4×4 and its proprietor, Cam Benton, taught the class. The company offers jeeps for rent as well as jeep tours and 4×4 driving classes. You can find out more at Pathfinders 4×4.

I cannot say enough about Cam, he was incredible! He was friendly, personable, and a wonderful teacher. Not only did he allow us to cancel our original reservations inside the 5-day “no cancellations” window, but he also gave us an almost total refund (with the exception of our initial deposit which he then credited back to us when we rescheduled).

Cam also owns several Air B&B properties. We had originally reserved a room in his home for that weekend but the week before our arrival he suggested we could use the nearby rental house, which he also owned, if we preferred. It provided more privacy, more space for us, and was actually more centrally located to our planned activities for that weekend. The cost of the home was close to double the cost of the room we actually paid for but he offered it to us for no extra charge.

**To be clear, Cam has not reimbursed me in any way for giving him this glowing review, I just firmly believe in giving credit where credit is due. 😁

As is often true for mountain weather, we were able to experience multiple seasons in just a few days. The weekend was full of clear blue skies and warm temperatures in southern Colorado, and we had intended to stay through Sunday night. However, with impending Winter Storm warnings for the Denver area on Monday (Denver was between us and home) we opted to leave Sunday afternoon instead. Not all was lost though. This change in travel plans allowed us to enjoy a leisurely, beautiful fall drive on scenic US 285 through the South Park area and Trout Creek Pass back to Denver, and on Monday we were able to enjoy our first snow of the season!

Below are some more pictures from our weekend of fun. Thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker for several of these!

Sunset over a wide, very shallow creek that runs over a sandbar. Dark silhouettes of sand dunes are in the background. — Sunset over the Great Sand Dunes and Medano Creek

A flat, sandy area leads to trees decked in yellow leaves and tree-covered mountains in the distance, all under a clear, blue sky. — Fall at Great Sand Dunes National Park!

View through a hotel window speckled with water droplets of a parking lot, cars and other buildings with a dusting of snow, all under a gray, cloudy sky. — Snow in Denver!

This is a great park to visit no matter the time of year. Definitely put it on your “to-do” list!

Have you ever visited the park or driven the Medano Creek Road? Tell me about it in the comments!

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Swiftcurrent Trail at Glacier National Park and 5 Other “Don’t Miss” Sites!

In this post, I review the early portion of the Swiftcurrent Trail (before the Pass) at Glacier National Park.

Author’s Note: Since we visited Glacier in 2016, the Park Service has implemented a complex, ticket system for visiting the park in the summer. To be honest, I can’t make much sense of it as it involves multiple tickets being required to enjoy various activities around the park. For more information on this system, visit the park website and/or contact the park office.

Our trip to Glacier National Park was an incredible experience and we barely scratched the surface of the adventures available. We’re already making a list of the new things we want to try on our next visit (that’s the problem when we go on vacation, we don’t cross places off our list, we just find more stuff we want to do!) I’d encourage everyone to make it a priority to visit the park if you’ve never been there. Its beauty is awe-inspiring, and no one knows how greatly it may be changed in the next few decades.

The last few days of our trip we hiked the early portion of the Swiftcurrent Trail (before the Pass) and then headed home via the Beartooth and Chief Joseph Highways. It’s always fun to include a little adventure on your way home. It helps to make the return trip something to look forward to, as well!

Swiftcurrent Trail at Glacier National Park

The Swiftcurrent Trailhead is found off the parking lot for the Swiftcurrent Lodge near Many Glacier, on the east side of the park, north of St. Mary’s.

It’s an interesting trail and it varies in difficulty depending on how you choose to navigate it. It traverses as far as the Granite Park Chalet, which is a seven-mile hike to the top of Swiftcurrent Pass. There it meets up with the Highline Trail coming from Logan Pass to the south, and The Loop trail coming from Going to the Sun Road to the east.

Related posts: Going to the Sun Road at Glacier National Park; 5 Things you Don’t Want to Miss at Glacier National Park; Gunsight Pass Trail, Glacier National Park; Glacier National Park: Hiking the Apgar Lookout Trail

This is a beautiful trail that starts as a relatively flat, easy path. It then progresses into a strenuous hike on a narrow trail with sweeping dropoffs, if you choose to go that far. I wasn’t feeling well that day so we chose not to attempt the entire route this time, choosing only to go as far as Red Rock Falls.

The section of the trail we hiked was well-maintained, smooth, and not too overgrown; it’s also shaded in many parts, depending on the time of day. This was actually my favorite trail of all the ones we did throughout the week, even though it was the least challenging. Similar to other trails at this park, always be watchful for bears (can you guess if we saw any?)

We did have a close encounter with a bull moose! They are frequent visitors to this area as there are several lakes and numerous streams and they like the willows growing nearby. We were made aware of the moose further up the trail by other hikers so we had fair warning–a fellow hiker almost had a head-on collision with the ungulate though as neither he nor the moose was paying close attention!

As we came over a rise we saw a small cluster of people and then spotted the full-grown bull moose just a few steps off the trail. He appeared completely oblivious to the commotion he was causing as he calmly munched on nearby scrub. When he grew tired of the attention he sauntered down the trail and off into the woods.

Fortunately, he was mild-mannered as several hikers inadvertently had closer encounters than would be recommended. Moose are not predators but they are very large and can be very dangerous if they feel threatened (especially during the fall rut or if they’re protecting young). As with any wild animals always admire them from afar and remember the general rule of thumb, if the animal is reacting to you, you’re too close.

A bull moose amongst trees — Our friend, the moose

A bull moose stands right next to a hiking trail in the woods — He was CLOSE to the trail

Don’t Miss Red Rock Lake and Red Rock Falls!

Both Red Rock Lake and Red Rock Falls are stunning. After about 1 1/2 miles down the trail you reach your first view of the lake. It expands outward toward the west with Mt. Grinnell and its surrounding range as a backdrop. Then you skirt the lake for about another half a mile and will reach an unmarked side trail breaking off to the left towards the lake/waterfall. You can’t really see the waterfall at this point but you will hear it. Follow the unmarked trail a short distance and you’ll arrive at the base of the falls!

Lakewater ripples surrounded by rocky, towering mountains spotted with snow, all under a clear, blue sky — Red Rock Lake

A short waterfall surrounded by pine tree-covered mountainsides — Red Rock Falls

If you’re looking for some more challenging hikes in the St. Mary’s area, check out these: Siyeh Pass Trail; Iceberg Lake Trail

Montana’s Scenic Roads

On our return trip from Glacier, we spent several days driving across the Montana plains on two-lane, state roads. I’ve talked before about my love of back roads, and I strongly encourage people to get off the interstate and check out these state highways.

It can sometimes be a shortcut and it’s almost always a welcome change from the drudgery of the highway. Search for alternate routes to mix the journey up a bit so you aren’t crossing the same areas on the return trip as you traversed on your outbound route. Enjoy the drive that gets you to that vacation spot as part of your vacation.

This eases boredom but it also helps you to better appreciate the local culture and people in the areas you visit. You may be surprised at what you might learn–just pay attention to your fuel gauge and the availability of gas when venturing onto backroads. Also, be aware, that cell signal may be weak-to-nonexistent in many of these areas so be prepared to go old-school when searching for travel info. You may need to resurrect long-forgotten methods of acquiring information: travel books, hard copies of maps, and even phone books can be good resources in these areas.

We saw several missile sites leftover from the Cold War and learned about a sapphire mine from a Local (apparently these types of sapphires are only found in this area). I also had no idea Central and Eastern Montana had so many mountains! This was a pleasant surprise as I thought it was all rolling prairie.

Beartooth Pass and the Chief Joseph Highway

On our scenic trip home we knocked other points off our Vacation Bucket List by enjoying Beartooth Pass and the Chief Joseph Highway; two connecting Scenic Byways in southern Montana and northern Wyoming. Be warned, much of this area is tundra with few trees. This means there is little shelter to be found, so if a thunderstorm blows up (which one did while we were there–complete with small hail!) exercise extreme caution as lightning strikes are an especially dangerous risk in these highly exposed areas. This is also a very, high-altitude region. The Beartooth Highway usually does not open until Memorial Day Weekend (at the earliest).

Click here for a post I wrote on our attempt to navigate the route that time of year.

Red Lodge, Montana

I also highly recommend a visit to the town of Red Lodge, Montana. It was absolutely adorable with its friendly, small-town charm. It caters to summer and winter outdoor sports and is located off of US 212, about an hour south of Billings, at the base of the Rockies. The area is perfectly situated to be used as a “base camp” for whatever adventures you are seeking.