Hike the Norbeck Trail in Custer State Park

I review the Norbeck Trail, a low-use trail in the higher elevations of the Black Hills, near Custer State Park.

 

The Norbeck Trail is a beautiful, lesser-traveled hiking route situated within the Black Elk Wilderness.  This is found within the boundaries of Custer State Park in the Black Hills of South Dakota. 

How do you get to the Norbeck Trail in Custer State Park?

There are actually two trailheads to access the Norbeck Trail:

If you want a shorter hike and want to hit the more difficult, steeper sections sooner (while you have more energy) the Upper Norbeck trailhead comes first. It is located about .3 miles east of Sylvan Lake and about .1 miles east of the trailhead for the Cathedral Spires (all on the Needles Highway, Route 87.)

It’s kind of hard to find the trailhead because you can’t see it from the road and there isn’t any sign. Basically, once you pass the trailhead for the Cathedral Spires, start watching for a paved lane going off to the left. That’s the trailhead. (Sorry, that’s about the best description I can give. 😝)

To reach the main Norbeck trailhead, take Route 87 to Forest Road 345 (Camp Remington Road).  Then take Iron Creek Horse Camp Road (which will be on your left).  Watch for signs for the Iron Creek Horse Camp and the Iron Creek Centennial Trailhead as they’re both, also, found on this road.  You will actually park at the horse camp, or just outside of it if the gates are closed (when we were there in mid-April the campground was still closed for the winter.)

Note: the Needles Highway is closed to vehicle traffic during the winter months. You can hike, snowshoe or ski it though (which can be a lot of fun!) 

What you will see on the Norbeck Trail, in the Black Hills

The trail is comprised of picturesque, rolling terrain.  It’s well-marked and wide enough for two people to walk side-by-side in some places.  There are several water crossings that are small enough that they’re easy to cross but big enough to offer relief and respite on a hot day. 

The ecology found along the length of the trail varies greatly from moist, almost temperate rainforest near the base, to dry, alpine forest near the top. 

As you trek through these various ecosystems take note of the abundance of spruce trees in certain areas–usually on the northern slopes–that denote a wetter climate (you usually only see this variety in wetter locations in the Hills.)  

What is the difficulty level of the Norbeck Trail?

The route is steep in parts, but the elevation changes are fairly moderate until you near the terminus of the trail where it joins with the Little Devils Tower trail.  These last 2.5 miles of the trail gain 1000 feet in elevation! (To compare, we gained the same elevation amount on the Misty Moon trail in the Bighorn mountains of Wyoming over the course of five miles!) 

This more difficult area is beautiful, though, as it snakes through a canyon complete with rocky, craggy overhangs and caves.  You’ll see the backside of the Cathedral Spires towering over you to your left, and if you turn around you will be treated to beautiful views of the Southern Hills and plains to the south.

A word of advice: never let your focus on completing a trail keep you from looking around–and behind you!  You never know what incredible views you may be missing if you’re solely focusing on the trail in front of you.

Pine trees and tree-covered mountains. Spindly rock on top of a mountain are in the far background
The rear view of the Cathedral Spires.

This trail doesn’t really “go” anywhere, per se, it’s more of a connector to other notable trails.   It can be combined with different routes to form various loops depending on how long you wish to spend in the Wilderness Area.  From the trailhead to the junction with the Little Devil’s Tower Trail, the route is a little over five miles (one way)–and as mentioned above it gets steep–so plan for a full day’s hike when considering this option. 

We really enjoyed the hike and the ever-changing scenery was beautiful.  There were some gorgeous vantage points and numerous opportunities for wildlife sightings.  This trail is less well-known and, therefore, more secluded. 

A portion of the trek does run near Route 87, for a time, so the summer months may be busier.  Certain areas of the trail also traverse old burn scars so, if traveling in the summer, be prepared for lack of shade and a hot hike in some parts.

Person stands in an open space amongst deadfall of trees. A few scraggly pine trees remain standing. Rock mountains are in the far background
You can see the sparseness of the shade in some areas.

As with many other areas in the Black Hills, be watchful for deadfall as well as dead trees that remain, precipitously, standing (and their hanging, broken branches).  These are remnants of the recent pine beetle infestation, and they can fall at any time, even on not-so-windy days.    

A few scraggly pine trees standing amonst deadfall. Rock mountains are in the far background
Damage from the recent pine beetle infestation

If you’re looking for a fairly easy day hike, with nice views and few people, consider the Norbeck Trail!  

Have you ever hiked this lighter-use trail?  If so, tell me about your experience in the comments!

 

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Car Altimeter and Sun Shower Review

In this post, I review one of my favorite gear items (a car altimeter), as well as a piece of gear no long-term camping trip should be without (a sun shower!)

 

The car altimeter and sun shower are two items the Trekkers use fairly regularly when car camping/traveling.  Neither are must-haves, per se, but they make the trip more comfortable and more fun!

What is a Sun Shower?

A sun shower is simply a reusable, robust, vinyl bag and tube, with a spout and black backing, that you fill with water and leave out in the sun–it looks like a giant water bladder.  When you return to camp after a day on the trail, you have warm water and a spigot you can wash with.  The device is gravity-powered, so you’ll need to keep this in mind when you’re picking a spot to hang it.  

There are various brands and versions of this apparatus, this specific one holds four gallons of water.  We’ve found this system works well even to just rinse off, or to have hanging around camp to use to help keep hands and feet clean. (We have found this setup also works well to make sure your fire is out at the end of the evening as you can direct the water more easily than using a bucket).

What is a car altimeter?

The car altimeter indicates the elevation you’re currently residing at.  This may not be a necessary piece of gear for the average hiker, but it’s fun on a road trip to see just how high (or low) of an altitude you’ve achieved.  It’s also one of my favorite gear items, even though it isn’t, usually, essential to regular hikers (those venturing to the truly high altitudes–10,000+ feet–may find it more useful.)

The device responds to changes in barometric pressure caused by weather, as well, so you may have to recalibrate it a little, each day, to maintain the most accurate readings.  

Other versions of this instrument are digital, but I like the classic feel of the dial.  For amateur interest, this is a fun, portable, way to keep track of elevation changes.  It also mounts to the vehicle using velcro, so it can be easily removed and taken on a hike if you’re so inclined. 

Below is a close-up picture of the altimeter:

A small dial showing various elevations sits on a table

So, if you’re wanting to maintain a higher level of hygiene on your next camping trip, or you want to know exactly why you’re breathing a little harder on the mountain top you’re currently standing on 😳, check into these devices!

Have you used either of these products?  What were your experiences?  Tell me about them in the comments!

 

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Yaktrax Review

In this post, I review Yaktrax, a must-have, gear item for the slippery, winter months.

 

When the weather turns cold and the ground icy, there is one item the Trekkers can’t live without, Yaktrax!  These gadgets are a GODSEND for anyone who spends a lot of time walking outside in the winter months.  

We use them for hiking (obviously), but also for things like walking the dog, clearing snow, etc.  They are especially effective for people who live in neighborhoods like ours where there is, literally, no flat ground ANYWHERE.  

Imagine this situation…the dog–with her 4-paw-drive–takes off down the hill dragging you with her.  You can:

A) Hang on for dear life, running through the snow-covered grass to maintain a semblance of traction or skid behind her on the slippery pavement…

or…

B) Walk easily behind her, completely in control (even if she’s slipping along), thanks to the Yaktrax–I speak from personal experience. 😇

There are several variations of these nifty devices, as well as a few different versions of the traction implement on the gear.  I strongly recommend the ones with velcro straps that attach over the top of the foot (they aid greatly in holding the device to the shoe). 

If you want to use these with hiking boots, I would suggest you lean toward a larger size–so, if you wear a size 10 shoes, I recommend the Yaktrax that are intended for sizes 10.5 – 12.5, NOT the ones that can only accommodate up to size 10.  My personal experience was, that the size recommended fits shoes just fine, but is almost too small for boots (they fit but they’re difficult to put on and take off and they tear/wear out sooner).  

Some of the product options feature chains, some studs, some springs, and some spikes (depending on the severity of the conditions you intend to encounter).  We’ve always used the “spring” version with great success (on extremely smooth/slippery ice, you may want something a little more hardcore).  Prices range from under $20 to close to $200 (again, based on the intensity of the spike you are interested in).   

Options for YakTrax!

Trekker Favorites

Best for shoes

Diamond Grip

Cleats for Running

Spikes!

Heavy Duty

A word of caution, be careful walking on these for long periods over hard dirt/rocks as they can become damaged.  We regularly carry them with us and then apply/remove them as conditions require (fortunately they’re small and fold up well, so this is easy to do).  

I would also caution against walking on them indoors (especially on hardwood floors or carpet) as they could tear/scratch that material (this risk will rise with the intensity of the traction material chosen). 

As long as they aren’t too tight, the Yaktrax slip on and off quite easily.  I would also recommend caution when using them in muddy conditions (though sometimes this can’t be avoided).  They can be a HUGE pain to clean if the mud dries on them (though if you can wash it off using water or rub it off with snow before it hardens, the difficulty decreases exponentially).

I would also suggest choosing the traction option that covers the most surface area of the boot/shoe (which is why the Trekkers chose the “Pro” version).  The exception to this would be if you really feel that spikes are required for the activity you intend to use the gear for. 

There are multiple brands of this product, these are the ones we use and have had great success with.  My first pair eventually tore, after several years of use, due to being slightly too small for my boots causing them to over-stretch.  Mr. Trekker got the exact, same brand/type, at the same time I did, and his are still going strong (under very similar use).

Below is a “shoe-sole” view of the Yaktrax, this is what bites into the ice:

Two springed, traction devices sit on a table

If you’re looking for a low-cost tool to help you remain upright during the slippery, winter months, I strongly recommend Yaktrax!

Have you used Yaktrax?  Tell me about your experience in the comments! 

 

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Rimrock Trail Black Hills

In this post, I review Rimrock Trail, that traverses the canyon walls, floor and crest of Spearfish Canyon.

 

Located along the crest and walls of Spearfish Canyon, in the northern Black Hills of South Dakota, is Rimrock Trail–Trail #79. (This route also now offers access to the recently organized Tinton Trail that traverses this area, as well.)  

Where is Rimrock Trail?

You can access the route via several different trailheads.  The easiest is to use Forest Road 222 from the tiny hamlet of Savoy, at the junction of Spearfish and Little Spearfish Canyons.  

From the Spearfish Canyon Byway turn at the Spearfish Canyon Lodge.  Once you drive past the final pullout for Roughlock Falls, start looking for parking areas–there are several. (If you reach the T-intersection with Tinton Road you’ve gone too far.) 

The parking areas are near the Rod & Gun and Timon Campgrounds, on the right-hand side of the road.  Be watchful as they are VERY small–they only fit about two vehicles each.  Also, some of the trailhead signs are recessed into the woods a bit, so they’re easy to miss.  

Rear view of a woman walking on a trail through a grove of yellow aspen trees and green grass.
The Tranquil Trekker traverses an “Aspen Tunnel”!

There is easy, trail access from the Rod & Gun and Timon Campgrounds, as well, though there are technically no “official” trailheads here.  If you want to avoid the crowds near Savoy, you can also take Tinton Road north from US 85 as it heads west out of Lead (towards Wyoming) and turn right onto Roughlock Falls Road, heading towards the falls (in this case the trailheads will be on your left before you reach the falls).  

There is another access point to this route from a spur trail that begins at the Old Baldy trailhead and parking area, which is found further along Tinton Road.  From here you will actually approach the canyon from the top.  This portion of the trail is relatively flat.

What is the Rimrock Trail like? 

The trail is comprised of two loops, the Upper Loop is 4.7 miles long and the Lower Loop is  3.2 miles.  We enjoyed both, and doing so means you’ll experience around a 700-foot total elevation change (the trail is fairly flat, the entire elevation change is mostly contained within an area of 1/2 mile or so, twice, throughout the hike–once descending and once ascending the canyon wall).  

This area is open for hiking, snowshoeing, horseback riding, and mountain biking.  The trails can be enjoyed year-round with proper equipment, though be aware, Route 222 is closed in the winter to all vehicles other than snowmobiles.

Tinton Road is not usually maintained in this area during the winter either, so, its accessibility varies depending on current conditions.  In addition to the weather, these include the vehicle you’re driving, the recovery gear you’ve got at your disposal, and your experience level with 4×4 driving.  We’ve traversed it successfully, but we’ve also gotten stuck, to the point where we would have had to be rescued had we not had proper recovery gear with us.   

What you will see on the Rimrock Trail

The trail offers GORGEOUS aspen groves that are especially lovely in Fall (take note, this area is one of the higher elevations in the Hills and trees usually change earlier here.)  The trek also features canyons and open meadows that are perfect for a stop for lunch. 

This area used to be fairly well-shaded.  Unfortunately, it has been hit by multiple tornadoes in recent years so now there are several bare spots where the trees once stood. 😕

We started from the eastern, Lower Loop, trailhead (the first one you come to when traveling from Savoy.)  Beginning the hike from here, the climb isn’t as steep, whereas if you start from the western trailhead the trek gets VERY steep almost immediately.  Due to the grade of that climb, that area would be very difficult and potentially risky if it was muddy.  

A dirt path winds through yellow aspen trees and green grass with pine trees in the background, all under a blue sky.

From where we began, it was amazing how quickly the ecosystems changed from a cool, damp, almost rainforest-type environment to the dryer, warmer, ponderosa pine forest and meadows common to the rest of western South Dakota.  The trail also offers expansive views of the canyon and surrounding countryside once you reach the crest. 

Going this direction, the final stretch of the route is easy and almost flat (which is nice when your energy is running low) as it traverses the floor of the canyon.  The babbling Little Spearfish Creek accompanies you the entire way.  Feel free to stop for a spell and soak your tired feet in the cool water, or watch minnows dart in and out of the sun-dappled shallows. 

You’ll pass a filming site from the movie Dances with Wolves (from the final scene in the film).  The origin of the 1997 White House Christmas Tree and the remains of an abandoned ranger station/homestead can be seen in this area, as well.

A grove of yellow, aspen trees with green grass and pine trees in the background all under a blue sky dotted with white, fluffy clouds.

This really is a great trail!  It’s one of the better options to experience the various ecosystems western South Dakota has to offer and it’s also very pretty.  The canyon portions remind me of those I’ve mentioned previously on the Deerfield Trail.  

In the fall, you can enjoy some of the best leaf viewing the Black Hills has to offer without having to negotiate all the traffic and visitors to the main portion of Spearfish Canyon.  During the autumn months, the yellow of the aspen contrasted with the dark ever-green of the pine trees; the brown bark of fallen logs; the incredible South Dakota blue sky, and the white puffy clouds (with red creekside plants speckled throughout the canyon areas) truly creates an iconic scene.  

I would rate the entirety of the trail as moderate (though several of the flatter portions are actually easy).  The climb up and down the canyon wall is relatively short but it’s steep enough for a strenuous rating, especially in less-than-superb conditions.  Because the trail can be divided into shorter sections, it is appropriate for smaller children, though they may need some assistance negotiating the steeper portions.  

A creek runs through yellow, green and red, fall foilage with pine trees in the backgound.
The view as you’re descending to the creek (creekside areas seem to be about the only place to reliably see red color in the Hills in the fall)

If you’re seeking a less well-known hike in the Hills, check out Rimrock Trail!

Have you ever hiked in this area?  What did you think?  Tell me about your experience in the comments!

 

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A creek runs through yellow, green and red, fall foilage with pine trees in the backgound. Pin reads, "Black Hills Rimrock Trail"

 

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Spokane, South Dakota (ghost town)

I discuss our discovery of the ghost town of Spokane, SD near Custer State Park.

There is a really cool, hidden site in the central Black Hills, the ghost town of Spokane, South Dakota!  I was surprised how long we lived in the Black Hills before we heard about this location! 😳 (This is likely due to it not being well-publicized, even though it’s very near a major tourist attraction in the local area…)

The site was pretty amazing (it didn’t hurt that the day we visited was GORGEOUS!)  I’d encourage you to research the town’s history as it’s pretty interesting.  Spokane was an actual town at one point (rather than just a simple mining camp) complete with a schoolhouse and a general store.

While the majority of the buildings have been destroyed by fire and Mother Nature, we think we found the foundation of the old schoolhouse.  The only structures still completely standing were a house with some outlying buildings.  There is also a root cellar in the main valley and the mine manager’s home still sits on a hill, overlooking the former town that was nestled in the meadow below (or it would overlook the town if there weren’t trees in the way, now. 😉) 

An old house in the woods, surrounded by pine trees
The mine manager’s house

Hazards in a Ghost Town

There are always numerous hazards to be VERY cautious of at these sites. Among a few other foundations, metal remnants, and ancient mining equipment, there was also an old well that had been sealed with a cement cover, but this has since been dislodged.  While you could see the bottom, a fall of 20 – 50 feet could be deadly, and either way, the rescue operation would be difficult for all involved. (This is another time it’s important to remember you can NOT rely on cell service when in the mountains).  

*Let’s talk safety for a bit, shall we?  When you visit ruins of old towns, mines, natural caves, etc. safety should be your #1 priority (respect for the site should be a VERY close #2).  These buildings can be dangerous. The wood is rotting, most are in the process of falling down.  Many have basements/root cellars (that you may not even be aware of).  If you fall through the wood into these, you could be seriously injured.  

Many of these buildings are also havens for rattlesnakes and other critters who may not appreciate you barging in (a mountain lion could be using a cool, abandoned root cellar as a place to nap.)  

Old mines can collapse or cave-ins–even in natural caves–can occur at any time and with little to no warning.  I cringe whenever I see pictures of people venturing into abandoned mines. 🤦‍♀️  So, adventure at your own risk, but, the Trekkers NEVER encourage people to actually venture into any of these structures. They can be enjoyed perfectly well and safely from outside.  (You should be watchful even in the outside areas around these old sites.  You never know when old holes, sharp metal pieces, or even disgruntled snakes may be camouflaged by the tall grass that often surround the structures.)

A hole a foot or more deep sits in the ground, lined with thin, regular rocks placed on top of each other. The hole is overgrown with grass and weeds on the bottom and the sides.
This hole in the ground appeared to be constructed, not sure if it was an old well, or what.  This is what I’m talking about with safety, though.  This hole was in the middle of what used to be the yard, without a cover or barrier around it.

Unique sites in Spokane, South Dakota

One unique aspect of this ghost town (at least compared to others the Trekkers have visited) is the presence of old cars!  Most of the towns we’ve toured had heydays in the late 1800s when horse and cart were the primary source of travel.  This town hit it’s prime in the 1920s (and wasn’t abandoned until the 1940s) so the unusual site of motor vehicles and evidence of electrical wiring on the buildings felt out of place.

The cab of a rusted, old truck with no windows sits on the ground, in a meadow, surrounded by trees.
I LOVE this old truck!

A rusted, old car with no windows or tires, and the hood and trunk stuck open sits in some overgrown grass on the outskirts of the woods.

Two rusted cars with no tires or windows with graffiti on them sit in an open spot in the woods.

Where is the Spokane ghost town?

In order to help preserve the integrity of the site, I’m not going to give the exact directions to this location–other than what is already available with a simple Google search.  I will give a few hints though:

      • It’s near Custer State Park (VERY, near).  You can reach the site using Playhouse Road and/or Iron Mountain Road.
      • There are two entrances to the site.  The main entrance, described in Google, requires a half-mile (or so) walk up a steep, rocky, abandoned forest road to reach the valley.  We–somewhat accidentally–stumbled on the back entrance with an easy walk of only about 1/8th of a mile to reach the meadow.
      • The rest of the discovery is up to you (as I said, Google is your friend!)Author’s Note:  In recent years the site has become more popular. Unfortunately, that means it’s also been vandalized–it’s too bad there are a few jerks out there who insist on ruining the fun for everyone–Some barriers have been erected in recent years to help keep people away from the buildings to hopefully help mitigate the damage. If you want clearer instructions on how to reach the site, you may contact me via social media as indicated below, or by using my contact form, and I may be able to help you a little more. (I won’t give precise instructions–that ruins the fun!–but I can give a few more helpful hints. 😇) 

The mood this site created was pretty cool.  The sun-dappled trees and forest floor make shadows flit on the ruins.  You can almost smell the musky scent of horse, and hear the horses, wagons–and cars?! 😳–that trundled down the rutted, dirt road, as the wind rattles the dry leaves of the aspen trees that border the ramshackle houses.  

While visiting the ghost town, why not check out Iron Mountain Road found nearby, as well?

This location would also make for a creepy adventure during the Halloween season! 👻  The site was pretty haunting, between the dilapidated old cars and buildings, you got a sense that this is what a post-apocalyptic society would look like (I may have been watching too much Walking Dead lately.) 😜

Below are some more pics of our adventure (thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker for many of these)!

An old, two-story home that is broken-down to the frame sits amongst some trees in a meadow.
To be clear, the house is leaning, not the photographer!  😉

Inside the room of an old house. No doors or windows are left and the frame is visible on the floor/walls/ceiling
Inside the room of an old house. No doors or windows are left and the frame is visible on the floor/walls/ceiling. The floor is messy, covered in plaster and the ceiling sags.
Inside the room of an old house. No doors or windows are left and the frame is visible on the floor/walls/ceiling. The floor is messy, covered in plaster and the ceiling sags.

An old, metal container, open in the middle with an agitator sticking out of the open portion
Dishwasher or a washing machine?

Old metal barn missing windows and doors sits in a grassy meadowOld shed missing windows and doors sits in a grassy meadow

Old wood pallets lay in overgrown grass amongst the trees

Looking through the doorway from the porch, into an old house. No doors are left and the frame is visible on the floor/walls/ceiling. Stairs lead to the second floor and an old stove is in the kitchen in a room far in back
I’m loving the old stove!  (FYI, those are YEARS of pine cones, left by squirrels, layering the floor in front of it!) 😳

An old, cement foundation now filled with grass, trees and trash

 

Have you ever visited this unique place?  Tell me about it in the comments!

 

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Three pictures: 1) Looking through the doorway from the porch, into an old house. No doors are left and the frame is visible on the floor/walls/ceiling. Stairs lead to the second floor and an old stove is in the kitchen in a room far in back; 2) The cab of a rusted, old truck with no windows sits on the ground, in a meadow, surrounded by trees; 3) dirt lane traverses a meadow surrounded by trees. Pin reads "The Ghost Town of Spokane South Dakota"

 

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Bighorn Medicine Wheel in Wyoming

In this post, I discuss an ancient medicine wheel in the Bighorns!

 

There is a prehistoric Medicine Wheel hidden in the northern, Bighorn mountains of eastern Wyoming.  It was built by the ancient ancestors of today’s American Indian tribes.  More than 80 tribes claim the wheel in their oral traditions so it can’t be attributed to any one group or culture, though it’s, obviously, a very sacred site.  

What does the Bighorn Medicine Wheel look like?

This is one of the largest, stone medicine wheels in North America (there are at least 150 spread throughout the continent).  It’s constructed with a center cairn with spokes emanating from it to an outer circle that connects six, smaller cairns that appear to be strategically placed.  

Archeologists aren’t sure of the wheel’s exact age, most estimates date it back at least 800 years, but it could be far older.  Archaeological evidence shows human habitation as far back as 12,000 years in this area!  

The ranger we spoke with stated the six rock cairns that dot the outer portion of the circle are believed to have a celestial purpose, but the exact function remains a mystery–it is thought that they may have been used during vision quests.  The last time the six cairns matched up with celestial markers was at least as far back as the 1700s!

Medicine Wheels are Sacred Sites

Religious ceremonies are still held at the wheel on a regular basis as many tribal members make religious pilgrimages to the site.  Some of the ceremonies involve large groups, while others include only a few individuals–two, small, private ceremonies occurred while we were there.  Anyone with American Indian heritage can participate in a ceremony.  

It’s always enthralling for me to observe religious practices that I’m not familiar with.  I’m fascinated by the emotions you see play out on the faces of the participants, and how descriptive their movements can be.  I find their actions evoke emotions within me as well.  You can actually feel the peace and tranquility emanating from them as they dance, pray, or worship in their own way.  

A tour of the wheel may be delayed if a ceremony is occurring, though they usually don’t last longer than 30 minutes, so please be patient and respectful during this time of worship.  Numerous religious offerings are tied to the fence that rings the site (or are placed within the wheel itself).  Please do not touch or photograph these items directly as they are sacred.  It is also requested that people not take photos or videos of the ceremonies, as they are occurring, to respect the privacy of the participants.  

Where is the Bighorn Medicine Wheel?

The wheel is located on Forest Road 12, off of US 14A, in the northern part of the Bighorns.  It’s about 20 miles from Burgess Junction (where 14A branches off from US 14 to the east) and about 30 miles from Lovell, Wyoming, to the west.

Related posts: Lake Helen, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming; 4 Don’t Miss Sites in the Bighorn Mountains of WyomingWest Tensleep Trail, Bighorn Mountains, WyomingCamping in the Bighorns

The parking lot is a mile-and-a-half walk from the wheel on a graded, dirt road.  The hike isn’t bad, though it is uphill both ways (seriously 😝) and the altitude is over 9,000 feet, so take your time.  The site is also above tree line so bring a hat, water, and sunscreen, and be prepared for the ever-present, Wyoming wind.  It usually takes an hour or so to complete the entire route.  The site is free to visit, though donations are appreciated.  Because this is a sacred site, pets are not permitted and must be left in the parking area.

The only thing that marred the experience was the large, FAA radar placed on the adjoining peak (because none of the numerous, other peaks in the surrounding area, that were a little farther away, wouldn’t have worked?  REALLY?!)  Federal Government, do better! 😤      

Panoramic view of a rocky mountainside. Tree-covered mountains spread in the distance under a crystal clear, blue sky
The incredible view of the Bighorns from the Medicine Wheel site (to the right is the road you hike to reach the wheel)
Small stones on the ground form the center and outer portions of a wheel with stone spokes connecting them
The Medicine Wheel (you can see one of the rock cairns in the foreground to the left)

The Backroads of Wyoming

I’ve suggested before, to always take the scenic route, when time permits.  We enjoyed a good bit of that on this trip!  We started by taking Route 24, west, from where it branches off near the Island Park campground.  We then took Forest Road 408, to BLM Road 1117, on to Hyattville.  

This route is listed in the gazetteer as being Hyattville Road, but we saw NO signs reflecting this.  Similar to what we’ve found in Colorado, even though a road may be listed as a “major connector”, especially in the gazetteer, this could easily mean the road is actually dirt (sometimes wide and graded, other times little more than a narrow, two-track, high-clearance road that I wouldn’t be comfortable taking an Outback on). 😝 

We used three separate maps–the gazetteer, a Bighorns map we picked up at a local, outdoor store, and a road atlas–to gather a–somewhat accurate–estimate of the roads’ actual conditions.  Part of the difficulty was the roads traversed National Forest and BLM land in this area, and each department names and maintains their roads differently.  

Overlooking a rocky cliff with pine trees growing up from below
A view from our backroad trip

The drive was very manageable with Mr. Trekker’s Tacoma (any high-clearance, 4WD vehicle could handle it in good conditions).  There were no steep drop-offs and no, real, technical obstacles like what we’ve encountered on some of the roads in Colorado.  It was also beautiful, ranging from alpine, spruce forests and aspen groves, to dun-colored high prairies dotted with tan and red clay mounds, adorned with the varying greens of the diverse foliage.  Rock-rimmed canyons with their gaping mouths open onto prairie grasses far below, while rocky cliffs of various colors traverse throughout, all with the imposing Bighorns as a backdrop.  

Here is a video I made that showcases the beauty that is eastern Wyoming.

After leaving the Medicine Wheel, we decided we were game to try a few more back roads.  We took another scenic trip, east, on US 14A to Burgess Junction, where we picked up US 14 and took it west.  We took that road to Route 17, another “major connector”, that we then took to Alkali Road/BLM Road 1111/Route 228, back to Hyattville (this is a back way to reach the Medicine Wheel from the south).  

Again, these road numbers and names were listed on the gazetteer and one of the maps–some of these roads didn’t even appear on the Atlas–but were NOT shown on the actual road.  We just trusted the signs that directed us back to Hyattville.  You always need to be flexible when taking back roads, as you never know what kind of obstacles or conditions may cross your path.  I should also note, there was NO cell coverage in this remote location (and GPS can often be inaccurate), so maps are often times your only option–time to go “old school” folks!  

Another road we could have driven was labeled in the Gazetteer as the “Red Gulch, Alkali National Back Country Byway”.  We didn’t actually drive it this time–though we returned at a later date to check out the fossilized dinosaur footprints it leads to! 😯  

The Back Country Byway is more of a two-track, high-clearance path, at least in spots.  I certainly wouldn’t call it a “main road”.  Funnily enough, the roads we took back to Hyattville ended up being in better shape than the back road we brought out from the campground.  They were graded, gravel roads that one could expect to travel 30 – 40 mph on (if the rancher in front of us hadn’t decided a slower speed was better.  Unfortunately, on those roads, that are only about 1.5 lanes wide, passing really isn’t an option unless the person in front of you is feeling charitable and pulls over.  This man didn’t. 😜)  So, we enjoyed a leisurely, scenic stroll through the beautiful Wyoming countryside.  😁  

After reaching Hyattville we took Route R54 (another graded, well-maintained, gravel road) to Ten Sleep and then got to enjoy the, INCREDIBLY beautiful, US 16 east through Ten Sleep Canyon, back to our campground. (Did I mention, almost all of these roads, despite their varying conditions–with the exception of the highways–had the EXACT SAME indicators on the map? 😜)

Peering through the trees across tree-covered mountains out to the dry, high prairie far in the distance

The topography of Wyoming is very unique.  It’s characterized by the towering Bighorns in the northeast, to the Grand Tetons that criss-cross Yellowstone and the Rockies, in the west.  A drier, large, bluff-filled basin sits between Yellowstone and the Bighorns.  

Some parts of the state are prettier than others–while the dry, scrubland that surrounds the mountains can be pretty and green in spring, it usually turns rather drab in the later months.  The basin area is dotted with oil fields and sketchy-looking, government sites with warning signs plastered on the fences, which can be rather intimidating. 😳

Below are some more pics of our scenic drive:

Dry, green meadow with trees and rocky mountains far in the background, under a clear, blue skyWhite, rocky cliffs rise high aboveA dry, scrubland canyon with a dry, high plain in the far distanceDry, grassy meadow with dry, high plains and bluffs in the distanceDry, grassy meadow with dry, high plains and red-rock bluffs in the distanceDry, grassy meadow with tree-covered, white cliffs and dry, high plains and mountains in the backgroundDry, grassy high plains with pine-covered mountains in the background

MOOSE in the Bighorn Mountains!

Earlier that summer, we spent ten days in the Colorado high country during peak season and we didn’t see one moose.  Later that fall, we spent ten seconds in the Bighorn mountains of Wyoming (literally), and TWO moose were waiting to greet us when we arrived at our campsite!  Bighorns for the win!   

Two moose in a field as seen through the trees
Our ungulate friends (this year it was Maggie and Megan)

As I’ve mentioned previously, I’m always surprised at how much this part of Wyoming reminds me of the Colorado mountains.  The scenery and critters are very similar, with the added benefit of being half as long a distance from the Black Hills and FAR less crowded than Colorado. 😉  

If you’re looking for an amazing, historical site to visit in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming, check out the Bighorn Medicine Wheel!

Have you ever visited the prehistoric Medicine Wheel in the Bighorns?  Tell me about it in the comments! 

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Small stones on the ground form the center and outer portions of a wheel with stone spokes connecting them. Pin reads, "A Prehistoric Medicine Wheel in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming"

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7 “Must-See” Colorado Ghost Towns

I review several ghost towns we toured around the Colorado High Country as well as our drive up Independence Pass.

 

The Trekkers LOVE visiting ghost towns! We try to include them whenever possible on our trips.  During our 2018 road trip, we got to check out several awesome ghost towns in Colorado.  

Ghost towns give you a true, visual understanding of how people lived “back in the day”.  I’m a very visual person so this helps me fully appreciate what the lives of the inhabitants of these towns must have been like.  I prefer the towns that are restored, with at least several buildings remaining that you can view.  Sometimes, however, the places that are comprised mostly of ruins allow you to use your own imagination of how they must have appeared in their heyday.

Click here for a list of ALL the ghost towns the Trekker’s have visited around the country!

Below is a list of seven ghost towns we visited in central and western Colorado…

Teller City Ghost Town: 

This was the first ghost town we visited and the one that required the most effort to access.  The townsite is near State Forest State Park, in far northern Colorado, around nine miles south of Gould, on Route 740 (Baker Pass Road).  You reach it by driving on a, somewhat rough, 4WD shelf road. (The Guide to Colorado Backroads† book that I mentioned in a previous post, rates this road as “easy”.  I would rate it as “moderate”.  A high clearance, 4WD vehicle should be all you’d need to access this site in good conditions).  

We didn’t actually complete the 4×4 road all the way to Baker Pass, though we spoke with a local who said it was worth the drive.  Alas, daylight was waning (and the mosquitoes were starting to bite!) 😝

 The way was fairly well-marked and obvious, but be watchful.  The road branched off several times and the correct route was only marked with orange, snowmobile trail markers (this is a snowmachine trail in the winter months).  

An old cabin sits amongst small trees in a grassy, open space. Tree-covered mountains are in the background.

An old, abandoned cabin without windows or a door

One plus with this site is that there’s a designated parking area and then you hike a Nature Trail loop to view the remains of the town.  Not much is left, but you could almost hear the voices of the patrons visiting the busy shops, and smell the dust kicked up by the wagons as they rolled along–what used to be–a bustling Main Street.  

At various places along the trail, markers describe the history of that home or business.  At one of the stops, the words of a young girl who came into town one winter night, via the pass, were noted.  Her description of the twinkling town lights flickering through the evening shadows was incredible.  

Below are a few more pics of the ruins at Teller City (as usual, thanks to Mr. Trekker for several of these):

The ruins of an old cabin sits amongst small trees in an open space. Tree-covered mountains are in the background.
The ruined walls of an old cabin sit in an open space. No roof or door remains. Tree-covered mountains are in the background.
The ruined walls of an old cabin sit in an open space. No roof or door remains. Tree-covered mountains are in the background.

A large, dark hole in the ground is circled by rocks and covered by a wrought-iron cage
An old well pit

Coalmont, Colorado: 

After leaving State Forest State Park, we visited Coalmont on our way to the Flattop Wilderness area.  Only the schoolhouse remains of this dusty hamlet, but from what we could see through the grime-spattered window, it appears to have been restored inside.  It would have been neat to be able to view it in more detail! 

The townsite is located off of Route 14, southwest of Walden, Colorado and can be reached via either Route 24 or Route 26 (they form a half-moon-shaped loop here).  The site is directly off of Route 26.

Old, white-boarded schoolhouse building sits in an arid landscape. Dark mountains are seen far in the background

Remains of an old ranch at Grand Mesa National Forest:

This site is located on top of the mesa, off the Land’s End Road.  It is the remains of a ranch that operated in this area long ago. Several cabins, one of which you can walk inside, and an old livestock corral, have been restored.  They can be viewed on a Nature Trail loop (it is part of a cross-country ski trail in the snowy months).  

A two-story cabin sits amongst tall, green grasses. It is a grey, cloudy day

An old, wooden fence-surround sits in a grassy, open space just outside a deep woods surrounded by tall pine trees
The old corral

Yellow wildflowers in a tall, grassy meadow. An old cabin can be seen down the hill

Pitkin Ghost Town: 

This “living” ghost town is located about 27 miles east of Gunnison Colorado.  Take US 50, east, from Gunnison, then turn left onto Route 76 in Parlin.  

As an aside, we enjoyed several good meals in Gunnison.  We had a wonderful breakfast at the W. Café, and, I can attest that the High Alpine Brewing Company makes great pizza!

Old, freshly-painted, one-story building sits on a plot in town. A statue of a prospector sits out front. The sign over the door reads, "Pitkin Assay Office"

Letters read "Pitkin Hotel" on the glass front of the building. Modern-day trucks sit on the street out front

At about the halfway point on Route 76, you will pass the “living” ghost town of Ohio City. (I call them “living” because some hearty souls are still living in both of these locations!) 

The rain was falling fairly heavily as we passed through Ohio City, so we chose not to stop, but Pitkin should definitely be on your list of places to visit!  It was one of the more “real-feel” ghost towns we toured as it wasn’t crowded with visitors, and enough of the old buildings have been restored that you felt as though you were actually walking down the town’s Main Street.  

The Silver Plume General Store, located on the east side of town at the corner of 9th and State Streets, is a great place to stop for lunch.  We certainly enjoyed our burgers from the outdoor grille! Note: Pitkin is the last chance at civilization if you’re venturing onward to Tincup, Cottonwood Pass, the Alpine Tunnel, or St. Elmo ghost town via Tincup Pass.

We didn’t make it to Tincup on this trip, being that Cottonwood Pass was closed for paving.  We are hoping to, one day, try the Tincup Pass between Tincup and St. Elmo and hike to the Alpine Tunnel.  Another journey for another time, I don’t worry that we’ll be back in Colorado soon!  😁

A two-story building with a belfry on top sits in front of a tree-covered hill. The sign under the belfry reads, "City Hall 1900"
Two old, single-story buildings with false fronts. One reads, "Pitkin Bank". A modern car sits in an alley nearby.
Two old, very small cabins sit so close they appear to connect. One sign reads, "Road Kill Cafe", the other "Stage Stop, Pitkin 1880"
An old, white-clapboard church and steeple

Below is a short video I took of the hummingbirds near the Pitkin Hotel.  I’ve always liked hummingbirds, but I’ve never heard them make this noise outside of Colorado…

St. Elmo Ghost Town: 

Everyone we talked to (and all the guide books we read) told us we HAD to visit St. Elmo, and it was, definitely, worth the visit!

The only disappointment I had with this site is that vehicles are allowed to park in the town itself.  Its spirit seems to be somewhat ruined when there’s a modern Audi parked in front of Town Hall. 😝  Also, they were restoring several buildings while we were there—which I’m sure is necessary and will be wonderful when it’s completed—but it meant that construction equipment was parked along Main Street.  *sigh*  Guess we’ll have to visit another time! 😉 

Two old, single-story buildings that look like they were once shops. One appears weathered, the other freshly-painted. A very tall, rocky mountain can be seen in the background

Two old, small, weathered cabins sit next to the dirt road

As I mentioned previously, if you’re daring, you can reach St. Elmo via Tincup Pass.  If you’re looking for a tamer route, you can do what we did and take the long way.  For this trek take Route 50 east of Gunnison through Monarch Pass (another great view) and turn north onto US 285 at Poncha Springs.  Then take Route 162 west–an out-and-back road (for the less daring among us)–toward the Mt. Princeton Hot Springs resort and on to St. Elmo.  

Near this area, there’s also a turnoff for Hagerman Pass Road to the site of another ghost town, Hancock.  From there, you can hike to the Alpine Tunnel from the east, though it sounded as though the hike is longer and the view isn’t quite as good as hiking from the west side–we chose not to complete the hike at this time due to time constraints and the monsoon-fueled thunderheads that were threatening.  

As I stated previously, since we missed a few ghostly spots this time around, we’ll be putting this area on our “must-visit” list for the future.  It’s always a shame when you visit a location and find out you HAVE to come back to explore further (that happens to us regularly on trips, especially in Colorado…have I mentioned that I enjoy vacationing in this state? 😉)

An old, wooden cabin with two chimneys. Two very tall mountains, one rocky, the other tree-covered, can be seen in the backdrop
Two old, wooden cabins sit amongst the trees
An old, one-story shop that reads, "Miners Exchange, St. Elmo General Store"

Much to the Tranquil Trekker’s dismay (we DON’T feed wildlife) one unique feature of St. Elmo is that visitors are encouraged to feed the WAY-overly-friendly and almost-aggressive local chipmunks. You can buy food for them at the General Store. 😝

The Cascades Waterfall near Buena Vista, Colorado:

After leaving Saint Elmo, on our way east, back to US 285, we stopped at The Cascades.  This is a lovely waterfall that’s just off the side of the road.  It’s a beautiful, peaceful location where you can walk right up to the base of the river that creates a picturesque waterfall in this area as it cascades across boulders–hence the name. 😉  

A creek runs over rocks and down a hill, creating a waterfall amongst the mountains and trees
Water from the creek dribbles over large boulders
A creek runs over rocks, creating a mini waterfall amongst the boulders and trees
A creek runs over rocks and down a hill, creating a waterfall amongst the mountains and trees

Gothic Ghost Town, Crested Butte, Colorado: 

I was a bit disappointed by this town.  The Rocky Mountain Biological Laboratory bought the town and did an exceptional job of restoring many of the old buildings which the lab uses for its work.  This we knew going in… what I hadn’t realized is that the lab has taken over almost the entirety of the townsite.  As it’s now, mostly, all private property, it’s almost impossible to tour around and browse the various buildings. 😒

I’m glad the town is being used for something, and I’m thankful to the lab for helping to save its structures, I just wish the historical features were easier to access.  And a note to the general store in town:  you close by four? In the middle of summer?? On a Saturday???  REALLY?!  Afternoons are a good time for people to eat ice cream you know!  😝😳😉

Sign at the edge of town reads, "GOTHIC site of The Rocky Mountain Biological Laboratory founded 1928"

No trespassing/no pets signs on a wooden fence. Old cabins sit in an open field within the fence. Rocky mountains are in the far background
Signs regarding the lab dotted the entire town 😕

You can reach Gothic by taking Gothic Road, Route 317, north of Crested Butte and the ski village.  You can’t miss it, this is, literally, the only main road going north of town! 😉  This will also lead you to Schofield Pass that I discussed in this post.  

Old cabins sit in front of a rocky mountain. Modern day cars and a construction cone are parked on the dirt street
Old cabins sit in a grassy field in front of a rocky mountain

Modern cars line both sides of the dirt street. Old cabins sit in front of a rocky mountain far in the background
Main Street in Gothic

Old cabins sit in an open field within a wooden fence. Tree-covered mountains are in the background

Old, brown, two-story building. Sign on front reads, "1880 Town Hall"
The General Store with its questionable hours of operation 😝

Old cabins sit amongst short trees with the forest in the background

Independence Ghost Town and Independence Pass:

Independence ghost town is located on Independence Pass (Route 82), around 16 miles east of Aspen, and around 21 miles west of Twin Lakes.  

It’s just east of the peak of the Pass itself, and is, actually, easy to miss.  It’s below the grade of the road and the two parking pullouts are small and not well-marked.  There are, blue, “Places of Interest” signs, but you have to be watching for them.  We actually saw the ruins of the mill, on the other side of the road, first.  

The townsite is located in a valley, along the Roaring Fork River, framed by the towering Sawatch Range on both sides.  

Independence Ghost Town:

This was my favorite ghost town of the entire trip!  It’s easy to access as the site is located directly on Independence Pass.  You actually park at a pullout on the Pass road and then hike out to the site, so no vehicles marred the view. 

The walk into the town site is about one-mile in each direction, on an old, two-track, dirt road. (The hike is pretty easy as there is almost no elevation gain.  Beware though, the town site still sits at about 10,000 feet in elevation.)  You can see the town from quite a ways off, which helps you to imagine what it must have felt like riding a horse or wagon along that route during the height of the town’s life.

This would have been an incredibly beautiful place to live! (Had it not been so isolated and suffered such extreme weather.)

Related Posts:  Guide to Colorado Backroads and 4-Wheel-Drive Trails: Book ReviewThe Best Hidden Gems of Northern ColoradoThe Backroads of ColoradoThe Drive to Crystal Mill in Colorado

The wooden remains of an old structure sit on a hill with a tree-covered mountain in the background
The old mill in Independence, Colorado. (This is the first building we saw to clue us in that we were “there”.)

The wooden remains of an old structure that has no roof. Trees are in the background

A two-track dirt road leads over a small, grassy hill. Old cabins in a grassy meadow can be seen far in the distance with tree-covered and rocky mountains in the background
I don’t imagine this view was much different when the town was thriving

An old cabin sits in a grassy meadow with a tree-covered mountain in the backgroundThe wooden remains of an old structure that has no roof or doors. Trees are in the backgroundThe wooden remains of an old, in-tact structure. Trees are in the backgroundA grassy meadow leads down the hill into a valley. Tree-covered and rocky mountains are in the backgroundThe remains of two old cabins sit on a grassy hill. A tree-covered mountain is in the background.

Independence Pass:

Independence Pass was incredibly beautiful, as well.  This one has been on my Colorado Bucket List for some time and it did not disappoint! (It was also the highest altitude we reached on this trip, maxing out at, just over, 12,000 feet!)  The scenic overlook and hiking area at the top of the Pass offer, almost, 360-degree views of the Continental Divide, which the Pass spans.

Looking down into a grassy, mountain valley. Rugged, rocky peaks and tree-covered mountains stretch to the horizon where they meet a blue sky filled with white, puffy clouds

Sign reads, "Independence Pass, elevation 12,095 feet, Continental Divide"

An analog device sits on a vehicle dashboard. It's dial is pointed to just over 12,000 feet
We finally topped 12,000 feet!

You may have noticed I’ve been enjoying using a Sun Company altimeter† in many of these posts.  It responds to changes in barometric pressure caused by weather as well as air pressure at-elevation, so you may have to recalibrate it a little each day to maintain the most accurate readings.  But, for amateur interest, it’s a fun, portable, way to keep track of changes in altitude–it connects to the vehicle using velcro so it can be easily removed and taken on a hike if you’re so inclined. 

A paved road winds down and around a hill. Rocky, rugged and tree-covered mountains are in the background and line both sides of the road

I made another video of our drive up Independence Pass.  I think my videographer skills got a “little” better with this one! 🤔

If you’re looking for something fun to do this summer, definitely check out the ghost towns of the Colorado High Country! 

Have you visited any of these amazing places?  Tell me about it in the comments!

 

Did you enjoy this post?  Pin it!

Four pictures of old buildings at ghost towns and Rocky Mountain passes. Pin reads, "The Ghost Towns of Colorado's High Country"

 

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The Best Hidden Gems of Northern Colorado

This post outlines our 2018 road trip adventure around the Colorado high country.

 

We enjoyed the northern Colorado portion of our 2017 road trip so much, we thought we’d return there for our 2018 summer vacation!  This trip turned out far better.  No projectile vomiting, no rivulets of blood running down a certain blogger’s leg, almost no injuries at all actually…just many, MANY, mosquito bites.  😜

For six months, we’d planned to complete a grand loop of Colorado’s Hidden Gems; visiting ghost towns, furthering our 4×4 skills, and enjoying the awesome scenery that is, Colorado.  Unfortunately, a winter with unusually low snowfall, and a dry spring, yielded a predictable result, wildfires.  One entire National Forest was placed under a Stage 3 fire ban and closed to all visitors for a time, while many others were under Stage 2 bans (no fires of any kind with the exception of gas cooking stoves).  

Orange tent opened on top of a small trailer, all sitting in a driveway
Our home for the week!

At first, we considered changing the trip entirely as it seemed likely that the beautiful vistas we were anticipating would be marred with heavy smoke, we also didn’t want to be an additional burden to those dealing with the fires on a daily basis.  After briefly considering the Montana backcountry, and deciding we’d like to leave grizzly encounters for another trip, 😳 we decided to stick with Colorado.  Fortunately, about that time the monsoon season kicked in and the fires began to slacken.  We were SO glad we made the choice we did!

Related Posts:  Guide to Colorado Backroads and 4-Wheel-Drive Trails: Book Review, 7 “Must-See” Colorado Ghost TownsThe Backroads of ColoradoThe Drive to Crystal Mill in Colorado

In an effort to avoid the worst-hit areas, we altered our trip a bit and returned to the northern portion of the state to both State Forest State Park and Grand Mesa National Forest, two locations we had enjoyed so much last year.  We again had a great time at both locations!

We experienced dispersed camping for the first time at State Forest, and at Grand Mesa, we enjoyed a lovely campsite within sight of the–albeit low–lake.  We got to explore new places like Montgomery Pass (discussed in this post), as well as Lake Agnes, the Crags, the Flattop Wilderness area, and the Land’s End Road at Grand Mesa.

Grassy meadow surrounded by pine trees. Rocky mountains in the background, all under a clear, blue sky.
View from our first dispersed campsite, near the Never Summer Mountains

Wildflowers in the Colorado High Country!

We enjoyed COUNTLESS wildflowers throughout the trip.  We’d heard stories about the beautiful flora that carpets the Colorado mountains during summertime but had never been there late enough in the year to experience it.  Their colors consisted primarily of red, yellow, purple, and white variations.  Their beauty was worth the mosquitoes!  

This brings me to another point…if you visit these areas in the summer…buy stock in mosquito repellant first!  We’d experienced the little buggers (no pun intended 😇) a little in the past but not during prime season.  Those things can, almost, carry you away!  And they’re tenacious! They latch on until physically removed and are undeterred by vigorous hand-shaking or other, less forceful methods (which is problematic when you’re using both hands to complete other tasks).  I’m all about respecting Nature, but mosquitoes may be the one critter where I draw the line.  I just don’t see where they have ANY redeeming value.  They’re annoying, they spread–potentially deadly–disease, they do act as a food source for other animals, but aren’t there enough other creepy crawlies for those critters to live on?  I mean, COME ON!  Is it possible Mother Nature made a mistake with this one?  🤔

Public Service Announcement:  While I don’t enjoy smearing poison laden with Deet across my body, as someone who reacts STRONGLY to bug bites–to the point of being woken up by the itching in the middle of the night–I’ll defer to the poison on this one. 😝  There are more natural bug repellants available, but I’d encourage you to be VERY careful with your choices in bear country (especially grizzly country).  Anything, with any smell, should be avoided.  They claim bears can even be attracted to hand lotion or chapstick that’s been left in someone’s pocket inside a tent. 😮  One perk to the drier areas we ventured through later in the trip was the lack of mosquitoes! 🤭

Wildflowers in a grassy meadow. Trees and a grass-covered mountain are in the backgroundPale, purple flowers sit amongst the grass and dirt
A grassy, rocky meadow full of yellow wildflowers surrounded by pine trees
A grassy, rocky meadow full of multi-colored wildflowers surrounded by pine trees

Colorado Crowds

This trip did reiterate for us, again, how spoiled we are living in the Black Hills.  In South Dakota, even during high-traffic times, you can enjoy a weekend in the backcountry without encountering nary another human (unless you bring them along 😉).  

In Colorado, we were–somewhat unpleasantly–surprised by the number of human companions we encountered.  It wasn’t just busy weekends either.  While we were in a heavy-use area, I was shocked that we had trouble finding a National Forest campsite on a Monday.  I was rather disappointed by the lack of wildlife we encountered on this trip and I wondered if it was at all due to the higher percentage of people in the vicinity?  We spent 2.5 days in the “moose capital of Colorado” and didn’t see one moose (actually, we didn’t see any the entire trip!)  😫  We saw LOTS of marmots, but I was hoping, with intentionally spending time in the backcountry, we would have a higher likelihood of encountering more wildlife.  I don’t think the heat was a problem as it wasn’t that hot, and we spent the majority of our trip at-or-above 9000 feet.  There weren’t THAT many higher locations for the critters to roam!  

We DID see countless bovine–which I dubbed “Colorado Bears” by the end of the trip. 🙄  I’m all about everyone having equal access to our National Forest land; however, the cows got a little annoying.  They smell, you have to avoid getting their “remnants” on your shoes, and when you’re looking for exciting wildlife–like actual bears, or moose–and all you see are cows, you get a little discouraged.  Maybe some “city folk” find our steak-producing cohabiters interesting, but this farm girl from Indiana was not impressed. 😜

A plant with red flowers sits amongst gravel

We also learned on this trip that no matter where you go in Colorado, and no matter how remote you think your location may be, you will likely always be in the flight path of some airport.  You’d settle down in your tent at night, being lulled to sleep by the, surprisingly, deafening silence of the forest (apparently it’s too cold for crickets at 10,000 feet, even in the summer?), and your reverie is suddenly disrupted by the roar of jet engines flying overhead!* 🤫  

*I really don’t mean to complain, we honestly had a SPECTACULAR time on this trip and we’re already looking forward to and planning our next excursion to the Rocky Mountain State (I’ve mentioned before my unbounded love for vacationing there).  These are just the things you contemplate after 10 days of suffering from altitude-induced hypoxia and the venom of countless insect bites. 😳😉

A plant with small, purple flowers rises from the dirt in front of a large, brown rock

National Forest Campgrounds are the Best!

We were also, again, reminded of our love of National Forests on this trip. I’ve mentioned this before, but if you can make do with more primitive facilities at their campgrounds (which usually means no flush toilets, though potable water is often available in the summer months), National Forests are a must-see.  They are at least as scenic as National Parks, with far cheaper fees and FAR fewer people.  We’ve enjoyed campsites where we fall asleep to the sound of the nearby babbling river, and ones where the moose almost walk through your campsite multiple times per day!  

A new “device” we acquired for this trip was a Luggable Loo and Double Doodie Bags (seriously, one of the greatest inventions EVER) and **sun shower, which made the dispersed camping experience far more tolerable. 

**A sun shower is simply a reusable, robust, vinyl bag and tube with a spout, with black backing that you fill with water and leave out in the sun.  When you return to camp later in the day, you have warm water (it also works well to make sure your fire is out at the end of the evening 😁).  

A grassy, rocky meadow full of multi-colored wildflowers, with a small lake in the background, all surrounded by pine trees
I am SO PROUD of this picture.  This was an “end-of-the-day-I-was-tired-so-I-jumped-out-of-the-car-and-snapped-a-quick-pic-that-ended-up-being-awesome” picture.  😁

State Forest State Park, the Crags and Lake Agnes:  

On this visit to State Forest State Park, we were able to complete the Lake Agnes trail and enjoy the Crags.  It’s a fairly short trail, well-graded and not-overly-strenuous.  I should caution you though, through many switchbacks you are carried up a fairly decent elevation gain, at 10,000+ feet mind you. 😓 

A dirt path traverses a gassy area surrounded by tall pine trees. A rocky, craggy mountain is in the background
The Crags

A rocky, craggy mountain with one side a scree slope. Trees are in the foreground

The entire trail is only about two miles round-trip and the lovely wildflowers that accompany you on your hike, as well as the SPECTACULAR view at the trail’s midpoint, are absolutely worth the effort required to complete the trek.  

While it’s still on our list to visit, it reminded me of pictures I’ve seen of Avalanche Lake at Glacier National Park, complete with the turquoise-colored water.  This was comforting to me as I was under the impression this color of water is mostly seen near glaciers, and if glaciers continue to recede, it would be a shame if future generations are unable to enjoy this spectacular view.  

Serene, blue lake surrounded by green, pine trees and rocky mountains with a little snow left on them. All under a clear, blue sky
Lake Agnes

Serene, blue lake surrounded by green, pine trees and rocky mountains with a little snow left on them. Some slopes are covered in scree. All under a clear, blue sky

Flat Tops Wilderness:  

We also traversed the Flattop Wilderness Area.  It was gorgeous as well!  The best way to see this area is to take the Flat Tops Trail Scenic Byway which meanders through the countryside.  It Follows Routes 13, and 317, and some county roads (two of them are also called North Fork Road and East Williams Fork Road).  The Byway connects the small towns of Meeker and Yampa, in far, northern Colorado.  The road system was a little confusing out here.  There were some intermittent signs for the Byway but I’d recommend a good map before venturing out this way. (Don’t rely on your phone, it’s easy to lose signal in these rural areas.) 

People who take this route should be away, the majority of the “highway” that traverses the wilderness area was a dirt road comprised of a rutted, washboard surface.  It wasn’t a difficult drive, we saw plenty of sedans traveling it.  The surface choice is understandable as the road is completely closed throughout the winter months, so maintenance during the rest of the year is probably more easily completed on a gravel road.  I just want people to be aware if you’re expecting a typical “scenic byway” experience consisting of a two-lane, blacktop road, that isn’t exactly what you’re going to get! 

The area was spectacular though, full of sweeping vistas of far-off peaks and valley floors dotted with lakes perfect for fishing and picnicking.  

Green, tree-covered mountains spread to the horizon. The foreground is framed between two, leafy aspen treesGreen, tree-covered mountains spread to the horizon. Spots of snow can be seen on the highest peaks in the far-backgroundA green, grassy meadow with a lake barely visible behind. Green, tree-covered mountains are in the background

Green, pine-covered mountains stretch to the horizon. In the far-background is a rocky, flat-topped mountai.
You can see where the area got its name

Grand Mesa National Forest:  

At Grand Mesa, we had hoped to hike more, but the impending thunderstorms and extreme exposure on our intended trail encouraged us to seek out other recreational options.  

Those storms actually produced a small, short-lived, funnel cloud! Accidental storm chasing, on a mesa, with only two escape routes (one a potentially muddy, dirt road), what could possibly go wrong?  😳😉  Fortunately, I had a meteorologist with me who determined the risk to us was slight.  

Pine tree-covered mountainside. In the background green trees surround a blue lake with a small, green island in the middle. A craggy, mountain wall is on one side
Island Lake with the Crags Crest off to the left (note: these are different crags than those at State Forest State Park)
Green, pine trees descend the mountain in the foreground. Tree-covered, rocky mountains in the background
The San Juan mountains provide a lovely backdrop to the views at Grand Mesa

We were able to complete the Land’s End Road–also, primarily, gravel, but in much better condition than the previously mentioned Byway.  This route takes you to a, now-closed, Observatory.  It also proffered an incredible vista of the valley far below and granted a birds-eye view of the interchanging ecosystems that encompass so much of western Colorado.  Here, lush forests in the highest elevations transition into scrubland and nearly-desert as the altitude decreases.  

We saw some of the friendliest (pushiest?) chipmunks we’d ever encountered on top of the Mesa.  The Trekkers believe in keeping wildlife wild so we did NOT feed them.  But, evidenced by the mounds of sunflower shells we saw scattered about (and that we watched the critters literally take food from other peoples’ hands), they have been habituated to human contact.  The greedy little buggers come at your with cheeks full, begging for more!  

Green trees and grass-covered mountains spread to the horizon

Green tree and grass-covered mountains. Drier scrubland covers the lower elevations in the background
The view from the top of the Mesa at the terminus of Land’s End Road

Green tree and grass-covered mountains. Drier scrubland covers the lower elevations in the background. A dirt road traverses the forestland as it descends the mountain. The blue waters of a lake sit in the middle of the drier, lower altitudes in the background

Green tree, rocky and grass-covered mountains. Drier scrubland covers the lower elevations in the background

Blurry close-up of the head of a chipmunk, eyes are open
The overly-friendly (and difficult to photograph) chipmunks at the top of the Mesa

Blurry close-up of the head of a chipmunk, eyes are closed

Grassy meadow covered in scrubbrush, surrounded by trees. Grey clouds with a small, funnel decending from them are overhead
Funnel cloud at 10,500 feet!

If you’re looking for some hidden gems to visit in Northern Colorado, make sure you check out State Forest State Park, Grand Mesa National Forest, and the Flattop Wilderness!  

Have you enjoyed any of these hidden gems of Colorado?  Tell me about your experience in the comments!

 

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Four pictures: trees with green mountains in the background; a lake surrounded by rocky mountains; a dirt path traverses a gassy area surrounded by tall pine trees with a rocky, craggy mountain in the background; a tree-covered mountainside with more rocky mountains in the background. Pin reads, "Hidden Gems of Northern Colorado"

 

 

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Poet’s Table, Black Hills of South Dakota

I discuss our various attempts to discover this “secret” Black Hills landmark.

 

After only two tries, the Trekkers were finally able to locate Poet’s Table!  (As it turned out, we almost reached it the first time, and probably would have, had it not been for the mist blanketing everything and the fog hiding the site from view).  

If you’re looking for specific instructions on finding this awesome spot…keep looking.  I won’t give any details that can’t already be found on Google.  Part of the fun is in the search! (I will say this much if you think you’re close…make sure you look up!)

But if you’re looking for hints to help with your search…keep scrolling! 😁

Where is Poet’s Table

Poet’s Table is in the Black Hills, of course! 😉

Our first attempt to find Poet’s Table was in early June on a particularly foggy day–which can be a really cool time to hike in this area.  It’s eerily beautiful to see the rock outcrops and spires looming out of the mist. 

Our second attempt was a few years later, also in June, and we were actually able to help some visitors from Illinois locate the spot.  They were grateful for our assistance as they were eager to ferret out this iconic, Black Hills location.

The only major clue I’ll give you is that this “secret” spot is within Custer State Park.  There are no signs or trail markers so you’re going to have to put your sleuthing hat on to find Poet’s Table.  The trail is unmarked and is located about a half-mile from the Little Devil’s Tower trailhead, which is about half a mile from Sylvan Lake, on Route 87.  It is also not far from the scenic Cathedral Spires Trail.  

After about a 1/2 mile hike down the Little Devil’s Tower trail and crossing a footbridge, you will see a fallen log on your right.  On your left is a rather large, well-trodden path going off to your left, heading uphill, traversing a bit of a canyon.  Take this path.  

As you trek this new, unmarked trail, within a few minutes you’ll see another, smaller, also well-trodden trail heading off to the left, toward more towering granite summits.  Take this left…

…this is where my directions end, the rest is up to you!

A mountain landscape with trees and rocks in the foreground. A meadow and more mountains are in the background
The view from Poet’s Table

Poet’s Table Can be Hard to Find

Don’t get discouraged if you don’t find the site on your first attempt (or even your 3rd!)  Just enjoy the hike, the views, and the beauty of the natural world that surrounds you.  We found some pretty nifty spots in the area even when we failed to find the actual Poet’s Table.  Good luck, have fun, and happy hunting!

Note:  There are several other unmarked trails traversing gulleys and canyons in this area.  They don’t “go anywhere” per se, but I encourage you to investigate them.  This is a pretty amazing area that you’ll have largely to yourself most any time of year (though summer is the busiest time).  There are lovely canyons, picturesque granite outcroppings, and the occasional small waterfall to hunt if you’re there during a wetter period of the year.  

Trails in this area aren’t overly long but they can get rather steep so watch your footing, especially in wet, muddy, snowy, or icy conditions.  The trail is in the Harney Range, which is also one of the higher elevations in the Black Hills (over 6000 ft), so flat-landers should take heed. 😉  Another nice thing about the trails being relatively short, most are half-day hikes or less (though you can, obviously, spend as much time in this area as your heart desires.)  You won’t get bored!

Thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker for this great shot of Poet’s Table!

Green table, chairs and cabinet sitting on a rock slab backed by tall rock. Some people are taking pictures.
Poet’s Table! (and our new friends from Illinois. 😉)

**A few months after our trip, this iconic landmark was vandalized. Fortunately, it has been reset. You can read my feelings about that event here.

Have you ever been to Poet’s Table (or got lost trying to find it? Tell me about your experience in the comments!)

 

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A mountain landscape with trees and rocks in the foreground. A meadow and more mountains are in the background. Pin reads, "Poet's Table, Black Hills of South Dakota"

 

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Hike at Gay City State Park in Connecticut

In this post, I review a wonderful State Park in Connecticut.

 

I’m going to take a diversion from my typical “out West” posts to write about a park we used to enjoy in New England when the Trekker In-Laws lived there.  Gay City State Park is located in Hebron, Connecticut.  It’s easily accessible from, I-384, Route 6, or Route 2 off of Route 85, just follow the signs.

Gay City Ghost Town in Connecticut

The park actually encompasses an old ghost town, though few remnants remain other than the foundation from the old mill.  The town was originally known as Factory Hollow, though with many of its inhabitants sharing the last name of Gay it was renamed to Gay City upon its sale to the state. 

There is also an aged cemetery on-site, where you can still read the inscriptions on some of the gravestones.  Please be respectful of this historic location and the final resting place for these individuals.

What you will see at Gay City State Park

The park offers miles of hiking trails (which are easily convertible to cross-country ski and snowshoe trails in the winter months); a small, scenic lake; a beach, a campground, picnic and swimming areas, and opportunities for a host of other activities.  The trails also connect to others outside the park boundaries that venture into other local, recreation areas.  For further info, you can visit the website.

Gay City State Park is fairly ordinary compared to those we’ve visited in the Western US, but it’s a place we always enjoyed and tried to visit whenever we were in the area. 

The trails are easy in difficulty, wide, and fairly free of roots and rocks.  None are much longer than five miles–although you can combine various trails for longer treks-so they’re ideal for families. 

Your trek takes you on a stroll through an old forest comprised of mostly deciduous trees dressed in the leafy clothes of the current season.  Only the sound of the babbling brook that parallels much of the trail, the wind in the trees, and the call of the birds flying overhead accompany you.  

The area is highlighted by the fieldstone walls that are iconic in the New England countryside.  It’s an opportune place to enjoy the lovely fall colors this region is famous for.  We usually visited in early winter, enveloped in the tranquil “swish, swish, CRUNCH” of fallen leaves underfoot, from which a nutty smell wafts with each step.

The most recent time we were there was lovely!  It was cold (around 18 degrees), but it was sunny, with little wind.  As it was the first day in about five that we had seen the sun, we had just recently driven 1800 miles across the country and we had countless, delicious holiday meals weighing us down, it was nice to be able to get out and stretch our legs a bit. 

There was just enough snow to make the scenery beautiful, but, as it was powdery, nothing more than hiking boots was needed to trudge through.  I was impressed by how many hearty souls we saw out with us, including cross-country skiers and fellow hikers.

Below are a few pics from our trek.  Thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker for a few of these!

A shallow creek meanders through leafless trees, all under a clear, blue sky. A downed tree covered in light snow lies across the creek

A white, snowy expanse of a frozen lake is surrounded by leafless trees. Long shadows of trees and two people cover the lake surface.
Shadow Trekkers!

If you’re looking for a fun, outdoor activity in central Connecticut, check out Gay City State Park! 

Have you visited Gay City?  Tell me about it in the comments!

 

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3 pictures: 1) A shallow creek meanders through leafless trees, all under a clear, blue sky. A downed tree covered in light snow lies across the creek; 2) A white, snowy expanse of a frozen lake is surrounded by leafless trees. Long shadows of trees and two people cover the lake surface; 3) A shallow creek dotted with large rocks meanders through leafless trees, all under a clear, blue sky. Pin reads, "Hike Gay City State Park"

 

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