Category: epic trips

4 Don’t Miss Sites in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming

In this post, I outline some great day hikes in the northern portion of the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming!

 

The Bighorn Mountains in northeastern Wyoming are a great place to hike and camp.  There you can find great campgrounds, historical sites, picturesque waterfalls, and even dinosaur footprints! 

Porcupine Campground, Bighorn Mountains

The Porcupine Campground is located off of Route 14A, in the northern portion of the national forest. (It is not far from the ancient Medicine Wheel that we visited several years ago.)  We drove in from the east, from the Sheridan and the Ranchester area.

This is a MUCH easier drive than coming in from the west, near Lovell.  That way is far steeper with much sharper turns.  When we drove the road from that direction several years ago we both agreed we wouldn’t want to have to do it pulling a 5th wheel.  We talked to someone in the campground who had accomplished this feat, and he confirmed it was quite difficult. 

Climbing the mountains from the west you do get some nice views of the Bighorn Basin, but it was a lovely drive through a canyon coming in from the east, as well.

Porcupine Campground is very nice for a national forest campground. (Far nicer than one we visited in South Dakota in the Black Hills National Forest.)  The sites were large and flat, and also well-spaced apart, some even appeared to be wheelchair-accessible.  They also gave you lantern hooks! (I’m easily impressed, what can I say? 😉) 

There was a goodly amount of shade at the campground and some of the sites offered fantastic views from the hillside.  The mosquitoes weren’t quite as bad as what we’ve experienced elsewhere, though they still gave us a few good bites.   

A stone fire pit in the foreground with pine trees and a colorful sunset in the background
Sunset from the campsite!

Waterfalls in the Bighorns!

Read on for two AMAZING waterfalls that are easy to reach in the Bighorns!

Porcupine Falls in the Bighorn Mountains

For our first hike, we visited Porcupine Falls.  It isn’t on all of the maps but it is easy to find.  It’s located off of Route 14, the same road as Bucking Mule Falls (which IS on most maps) and there is a sign at the turnoff.  The road to the trailhead is short but it does get rather rough. (We saw people in RVs and regular sedans who made it through though.)  In good conditions, most vehicles shouldn’t have too much trouble as long as you are watchful and take it slow.

The trail is short, less than a mile in each direction, but it is STEEP!  We were prepared for this but I strongly recommend GOOD walking shoes with strong tread if you’re attempting this hike.  In dry conditions, it was a little slippy heading down.  If it was muddy or snowy/icy this trail could be downright treacherous!  It’s a downhill hike the whole way to the falls, so you know what that means for your return trip! 😮  Another thing that makes the trek back so difficult is the altitude as you’ll find yourself above 5000 feet in elevation when attempting this hike.

It becomes extra fun when you meet an unleashed, less-than-friendly dog along the trail with no owner in sight, who insists on getting in your pup’s face and growling.  PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT:  Please be responsible for your pets and respectful of everyone else on the trail.  No one else knows your dog, or if the growls he emits are casual, or a prelude to something more aggressive–this is especially concerning when you have a pup who thinks EVERYBODY just wants to play with her! 🙄

Narrow waterfall amongst rock walls
Porcupine Falls!
Narrow waterfall between rock walls falling into a green, pool of water
Doesn’t that pool look inviting?
A rocky creek travels between a rock wall and a tree-covered mountain
A view down the canyon, past the waterfall and pool!

The view is definitely worth the challenge of getting to the site.  The roaring cascade plummets into a pool at your feet from over 200 feet above you. On hot days, this makes for a perfect place to take a cool dip, but be warned, the water is COLD!

Bucking Mule Falls in the Bighorns

After that adventure, we continued down the road to Bucking Mule Falls.  There were numerous horses and campers at this location and before you ask, yes, there was also a mule!  Poor Puppers didn’t know what to make of the ungodly noise that emanated from him in response to some nickers from other horses. 😂

You get extra points if you know what a mule actually is (hint, it’s a hybrid).  You get EXTRA, extra points if you know a unique characteristic that this hybridization causes…🤔 **(answers at the end)

I was in absolute heaven!  I LOVE the smell of horse (yes, really 😝).  I blame my childhood, growing up on a hobby farm, with horses, in Indiana.  But seriously, there is something cool about those animals.  They’re REALLY intelligent, for one thing, and their smell is divine!  It isn’t anything like other barnyard animals, it’s sweeter. (The only time I’ve ever known a horse to stink is when they’re super sweaty after a hard ride.)  Even their manure smells better than other animals.  That’s right, you heard me!  I like the smell of horse poop! 🤣

Related posts: Lake Helen, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming; West Tensleep Trail, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming; Bighorn Medicine Wheel in Wyoming; Camping in the Bighorns

This was a great trail!  It was about four miles round-trip, but there wasn’t much elevation gain.  The route mostly rolled over the lower-lying hills in the local area.  It traversed a beautiful, wooded forest with the pine needles cushioning your footfalls, as well as some more craggy outcrops.  The trek was fairly well-shaded, on a graded path, without a lot of roots or boulders to trip you up.

At the end, you come to a lookout point over Devil Canyon, where you look DOWN on the falls from high above (it emerges from the opposite canyon wall).  It was really cool!  The canyon was HUGE and beautiful, not what I was expecting at all.  It reminded me of the canyon that Green River formed at Dinosaur National Monument, in Colorado.  It leads to the west and opens onto the expansive, hazy plains of Bighorn Basin.

Tree-covered and rocky canyon walls. Taller mountains loom through the haze in the distance
Devil Canyon, isn’t it GORGEOUS?!
Viewed from above, a large, thin waterfall cascades down a rock wall
Bucking Mule Falls!
Shadows of two people on the rocky ground with a waterfall cascading down a rock wall in the background
Shadow Trekkers at the falls!

There is also a Paradise Falls in this area.  I didn’t see it on the map and we didn’t know it existed until someone told us about it.  Apparently it’s a bit of a secret. 🤫  It does show up on Google Maps though and looks rather easy to reach if you want to research this location on your own… 

Later, we drove a loop from 14A to Route 15, to Burgess Overlook.  Then we returned back to our campsite via 14A. This allowed us to FINALLY see a moose (she ended up being the only one we saw the entire trip! 😕)

It’s highly unusual that we see so few moose in the Bighorns.  Usually, we are there in early September so I’m not sure if our lack of moose sightings was a result of the hotter weather over the summer, keeping them at higher elevations, or the crowds encouraging them to stay more isolated.  The babies would still be smaller and younger at that time of year which may explain why the mommas may want to keep them further from people. 

Red Gulch Dinosaur Tracksite

On the third day of the trip, we took Shell Canyon to the west on Route 14.  We’ve traveled this road before but never in this direction, so we got a different perspective on it.  Later we got to view the rain shafts hammering the canyon as we looked up at it from the west.  It was a very cool sight! 

Dry, dusty prairie with dark rain clouds hovering over the landscape in the background

Then we took Red Gulch Road to the Dinosaur Tracksite.  This was very cool and something I had just happened to stumble upon on the map.  They think this location was a beach on the edge of an inland sea during dinosaur times.  The “terrible lizards” would walk in the mud next to the water and leave tracks.  These eventually hardened and were fossilized!

Narrow holes left in rock
Fossilized shrimp holes at the Dinosaur Tracksite!
Three-toed, fossilized footprint left in rock
Dino footprint!

This attraction is small and free.  It was a nice place to visit for lunch and to let the pup run a bit.  I can imagine it being quite hot on a warmer, sunnier day.  They had nice picnic facilities, though.

We then finished this backcountry byway that we had completed the other leg of on another trip.  Ya’ll know how I LOVE finishing things that I start! 😁  This portion of the road was quite rutted and rough too, so it’s not really fit for a typical sedan (though a higher clearance SUV could handle it in dry conditions–we saw some CRV’s do it!)

If you’re looking for some great day hikes in the northern Bighorn mountains, check out some of these cool options! 

Have you visited any of these sites?  Tell me about your experiences in the comments!

 

**Mules are a hybrid of a male donkey and a female horse.  You can usually spot them because they’re the size of a horse, but with GIGANTIC ears.  And the other characteristic that makes them unique?  Because they are a hybrid, rarely can they reproduce…The More You Know 🌈 😉 !

 

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Three pictures: two waterfalls and a stormy, landscape scene. Pin reads Hiking in The Bighorns

 

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Dinosaur National Monument: the Colorado Side

In this post, I discuss the Colorado side of Dinosaur National Monument.

 

In this post, I reviewed the Trekkers’ visit to the Utah side of Dinosaur National Monument.  In this post, I’ll be discussing the Colorado side (as the park spans both states).

Scenic Drives on the Colorado Side of Dinosaur National Monument 

One of the main things we enjoyed on the Colorado side of the monument was the scenic drives.  There are several found throughout this portion of the park, though all but Harper’s Corner Road are suggested for high-clearance vehicles only.

As I mentioned in Part 1, under good conditions most of these roads are great to drive (honestly several of them were less bumpy than some of the paved, county roads we drove on).  I would have felt comfortable taking any vehicle with a higher wheelbase on these (such as an Outback), and we saw several SUVs.

I cannot stress enough though, that we were there in the most ideal weather possible.  According to the park, several of the roads are completely impassable when wet.  This seemed likely as we crossed many dry stream beds that could easily fill with stormwater runoff.  It also makes sense that the powdery dirt that covers the surface of many of these routes could quickly turn into slippery ooze when wet.  Many of the roads also only have one way in or out, so, if you reach the end, and then a rainstorm comes…you may not be able to get back out again.  Several also lead through low-lying canyons which are likely to flood quickly in a heavy rain event.  So please, be wary before attempting these roads if any bad weather conditions are present or expected.

Click here for the NPS website for the park which will have up-to-date info on current road conditions.

Harper’s Corner Road

This is the main road through the Colorado section of Dinosaur National Monument.  You access it near Dinosaur, Colorado.  This is also one of the only paved roads in the park.  At the end of it is the Harper’s Corner Trail which offers INCREDIBLE views.

Hiking on Harper’s Corner Trail

This trail is beautiful! At times you are hiking on an almost knife-edge of rock, with the Green River winding along beside you on one side, and the Yampa River on the other.  Did I mention you are up to 2500 feet ABOVE these waterways throughout the hike? 😮  It got my acrophobic-heart pumping a bit! (It really wasn’t too bad.  I only felt nervous in one spot where you get a healthy view of a chute, down a cliffside. 😋)

I would rate this trail as “easy”.  It’s about three miles in total length (out and back) and it doesn’t have much elevation gain.  Just about anyone wearing tennis shoes should be able to handle it (though I should note the park is at an altitude of over 5000 feet, so “flatlanders” may want to take it slow. 😉)  At the end of the trek you are treated to an AMAZING view down the canyon, and of Steamboat Rock from above, behind which the Yampa and Green Rivers meet.

A narrow river valley in a desert landscape as seen from above. Short trees are in the foreground while a thin, green river can be seen far below.
One of the incredible lookout points from the Harper’s Corner Trail. That’s the Green River far below, you can maybe see how it got its name.
Looking out over a desert, badlands landscape from above. Short trees are in the foreground with a large, rock formation in the background.
Steamboat Rock, from above…

Echo Park Road

This route takes you from Harper’s Corner Road, east, to Echo Park and its campground.  This area is called a “park”, like several other locations in Colorado.  It is really just a flat, meadow-like area.  It was cool!  (Hint, it’s called “Echo Park” for a reason, I encourage you to experiment with this 😁.)

This route traverses the lower “benches” of land that can be seen from above when traversing the Harper’s Corner trail.  They are called this as they are wide sections of terrain.  They literally look like benches, or steps, that rim the lower, river canyons. 

The road winds through an incredible canyon where sheer rock towers over you on both sides.  From here you can see Steamboat Rock from the bottom, where it’s much more impressive.

There is a short hike along the river’s edge that is around two miles long (out-and-back).  It takes you to the confluence of the Yampa and Green Rivers.  There is also a place on this road called Whispering Cave.  It appeared fairly unassuming, at first, as it’s just a vertical slit in the rock wall of the canyon, that you can stand in.  This was until we figured out its secret (and how it got its name).  If people stand at either end of this long slit and whisper REALLY quietly…you can hear each other VERY well (thanks to the unique acoustics of the rock structure).  And it’s far more effective than if you try the same thing outside (we checked! 😉)

Click here for a short video of the drive!

A dirt road snakes through a narrow canyon, rock towers on three sides.
The canyon on Echo Park Road.

A river with a desert landscape and rock rising in the background

A dry, yellowed meadow in a desert landscape and rock rising in the background
Echo Park!
A river with a large rock that resembles a shark's fin rising behind it, all in a desert landscape.
Another view of Steamboat Rock!

Yampa Bench Road

This route takes you from Echo Park Road, east, all the way to US 40 in Elk Springs (though there are a few places you can bug out before you get that far, dependent on road conditions).  This was the most difficult route we encountered.  The drive was beautiful though, with yellow grassland and scrub brush spread before you, all the way to the rock walls that rise above you on two sides.

Even this road wasn’t bad at this time of year, though I could see it being difficult if it was wet.  It was the steepest drive we took and it had the sharpest turns.  This was also the longest route we attempted, by far.  It was fun, but we covered less than half of it (around 20 miles) and that took almost two hours.  This did appear to be the most difficult part of the trek.  According to the map, the rest of it looked flatter and easier (and some parts may have been roughly paved).  We did finally escape, through a blessed hole in the rock wall called Thanksgiving Gorge (I think I know why they give it that name!) just as daylight was waning.  We were rewarded with a herd of elk…and LOTS of cows! 😋

A dry, yellowed grass meadow with rock formations in the background. The sun angle is low and shadows are long.
Sunlight is waning on the Yampa Bench Road

Beautiful Canyons in the Colorado section of Dinosaur National Monument

Flaming Gorge Reservoir

On Sunday we took US 191 north of Vernal, Utah, to the Flaming Gorge Reservoir.  It was named for its vibrant, red cliffs that were cut by the Green River.  The gorge spans both northeastern Utah, and southeastern Wyoming, just to the north.  It is absolutely beautiful, and the dam that created the reservoir is pretty stunning, as well.

A lake sits between two rocky hillsides in a desert landscape
Flaming Gorge Reservoir
A large, concrete dam in a desert landscape
The Flaming Gorge Dam

Gates of Lodore

From the dam, we then continued north on Route 191, just across the Wyoming line, and picked up Brown’s Park Road.  This we took east, back into Colorado.  From here we followed signs to the Gates of Lodore, another INCREDIBLE canyon that was cut by the Green River.  It sits on the northern tip of the monument.  This route was a mixture of well-graded dirt and rough pavement, though any passenger car should be able to handle it, at least in good weather.

I was pronouncing this location like “Gates of Mordor”, from Lord of the Rings, but was quickly corrected by a local.  Apparently, it’s supposed to sound more like “Gates of la-DOOR”. 😂 

There’s an easy, and fairly short, hiking trail that leads to the mouth of the canyon, from the parking area.  Due to its sheer, rock walls, there is no access through this rocky cleft, except by watercraft on the river itself.

A river winds through a desert canyon. Tree-covered, steep, rocky walls line both sides of the canyon.
Gates of Ladore!

A river snakes through a desert landscape with yellow-grass meadows and scrub brush-covered hillsides

Crouse Canyon/Brown’s Park Scenic Backway

We returned back to Vernal by way of the Crouse Canyon/Brown’s Park Scenic Backway.  This is another route that cuts through a beautiful canyon, and then a meadowy area.

This road was one of the rougher routes we traveled on and was basically only one lane wide.  This was unexpected as it was listed as a scenic drive in one of the local tour brochures, and wasn’t suggested to be high-clearance.  Our truck handled it easily but had we known how rough it would be we would have aired the tires down, just for a smoother ride.  In good conditions, any SUV with a higher wheelbase should be able to handle it (we passed a CRV or two) but I wouldn’t suggest attempting it in a typical passenger car (just because there were some rocks and ruts that had to be navigated).  An Outback probably could have managed it, but we would have been extra cautious. 

The drive was BEAUTIFUL though, with the yellow and orange leaf colors set against the red rock of the canyon walls, which contrasted with the blue of the sky above.  Click here for a short video of it!

We returned home via US 40 east, through Craig, Steamboat Springs, and Rabbit Ears Pass.  This is the one portion of northern Colorado we hadn’t been to yet.

Related posts: Conquer Lengthy Trails in Small Portions; The Best Hidden Gems of Northern Colorado

From there we took Route 14 north to Walden, then headed north to Laramie, Wyoming, and back to the Black Hills.  FYI, this is a great way to avoid the traffic in the Denver area, and much of I-25, if you’re heading north from northern Colorado!  It offers some great views too!

You won’t find a better time to visit this park than Fall.  Tree colors are bright, crowds are light and temperatures are cool.  So the next time you’re looking for a good autumn vacation spot, think of the out-of-the-way Dinosaur National Monument!

Have you visited this incredible place?  Tell me about your favorite parts of it in the comments!

 

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A narrow river valley in a desert landscape as seen from above. Short trees are in the foreground while a thin, green river can be seen far below. Pin reads, "Dinosaur National Monument: the Colorado Side"

 

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Dinosaur National Monument: the Utah Side

In this post, I give a review of the Utah side of Dinosaur National Monument.

 

To celebrate our 10-year anniversary, the Trekkers headed to Colorado!  We started our trip in Boulder, as Mr. Trekker had some work-related meetings for a few days.  Thanks to my flexible job I was able to work out on the balcony of our hotel room. 😋

We spent the remainder of our week at the Dinosaur National Monument, that spans the northern border between Utah and Colorado.  This is a cool place that we hadn’t heard of until recently (you can learn more about it at the NPS website here.)  It is in a very remote area.  In fact, we think we may have finally found a place in Colorado where planes don’t constantly fly over!

Boulder, Colorado

Boulder is nice, for being a larger city.  It reminds me A LOT of the place we used to live when we were in North Carolina.  I don’t like all the bike lanes, especially when driving Mr. Trekker’s truck, these give me serious anxiety!

I felt like it was just an added stimulus I had to keep track of while trying to navigate the busy traffic and figure out where in the world I was going 😛.  There were also A LOT of boulevards.  While this is certainly aesthetically pleasing, I find it makes getting around town (or just simply turning around, or getting to a business that’s on the other side of the block) difficult.

I will say this, for a larger city and busier place, I have been pleased with how friendly people are here, especially when driving.  I rarely ever get honked at and people are usually willing to let you into a lane quite regularly, even when traffic is heavy.

I hadn’t expected to miss seeing the mountains…being in a town that sits RIGHT NEXT TO the Rockies! 😛  Boulder might actually be closer to these peaks than we are to the Black Hills…and I can see those from our house!  There were just so many taller buildings and trees that blocked the view.  It seemed kind of sad to me, that people live in such a cool place and you don’t get to enjoy its natural beauty every day…

I can definitely understand why people live in Boulder.  It’s very pretty and there’s a lot of culture, nice restaurants, etc.  It seemed to cater more to those who ride bikes or walk, which is fine, I’m all about a green lifestyle that’s full of outdoor time and exercise.

It doesn’t help that Boulderites–whether on bikes or walking–don’t seem to understand the laws of physics.  They barely watch for vehicles!  Yes, I understand you may have the right of way in many situations. However, you should still navigate defensively. If someone in a half-ton vehicle hits you, your “Right Of Way” doesn’t offer any protection whatsoever! 🙄

Boulder seems to be in an odd transition phase.  Some parts of it are “old school” and charming, with Victorian-style homes (such as the one used in the tv show, Mork and Mindy, seen here!)  There is also A LOT of new construction occurring, of very modern, industrial-looking, apartment, condo, and office buildings.  While this type of architecture is cool too, I’m not sure about the mix of the two, especially when they’re squished together like sardines.  It kind of felt like a smorgasbord of building design, and I’m not sure how I felt about it…🤔

Parking was definitely a problem though.  I’m not sure if this may be due to the fact that the area has grown so quickly?  Unfortunately, there were multiple times when I couldn’t get to a business or park that I wanted to visit due to there being no parking available nearby.

As I said, if locals mostly walk or ride a bike, maybe this isn’t a big deal.  It doesn’t make a visitor feel very welcome though.  I find it INCREDIBLY frustrating when I want to go to a place and all I see are “no parking” signs. 😡  Do people just “Uber” everywhere these days?  Yeah, I’m a child of the 80s folks, this old dog likes her car and likes to drive herself, thanks! 😉😜

The only real complaint I had about the town (other than the traffic 😇) was when Target charged me 10¢ per plastic bag (and Safeway charged 20¢!)  I understand that the overuse of plastic is a problem, but don’t just start charging me for bags without any warning.  I don’t even mind using reusable bags that I bring from home, but I wasn’t at home, was I?  It just felt, unwelcoming, frankly.

As an example of why, after paying, I realized one of my bags was a little heavy and I would have preferred to double-bag it.  So then I was faced with a dilemma…do I “steal” an extra bag?  Do I go through the hassle of trying to pay an additional 20¢ for ONE MORE BAG?  Or do I just risk there being a hole in my single-layer bag and dumping my glass bottles all over the parking lot? *sigh*

I had an interesting encounter with a Tesla…we were in a tight parking lot and I was getting back in our truck.  I was being VERY careful to not bump the fancy, shiny car next to me, when all of a sudden, the computer screen on its dash “woke up” and started scrolling something about “security” (there was no one in the car, mind you).

I’m assuming the machine was “sensing” my presence?  It was a little creepy!  I felt like I was dealing with Kitt from Knight Rider! 😜 (Yes, that was a 1980s TV reference, I just dated myself again didn’t I? 😋)  I may not be cut out for this “brave new world” ya’ll! 😋

Things to do in Boulder, including the Mork and Mindy House!

A grey, Victorian-style house sits behind a white, picket fence in town

For those who don’t know, Mork and Mindy was a comedy show starring Robin Willaims as an alien that was on in the late 70s (Note: BEFORE my time folks! 😝)

The show was based in Boulder and the house Mork lived in is still standing. It is located at 1619 Pine St. (I’m telling you this because the info is LITERALLY available on Google. 😇)

And, because we apparently can’t ever go to Colorado for our anniversary without it snowing, this is the–admittedly beautiful–sight we woke up to one morning… 😋 (it was 80 the day before mind you! 😮)…

Dinosaur National Monument

On our route west, toward the monument from Boulder, we drove on I-70 through Glenwood Canyon.  That route through the Colorado Rockies has to be one of the prettiest sections of interstate I’ve ever been on.  Click here for a video of our trip through the canyon…

As long as you aren’t intending to go on a rafting trip on the river, fall is known as one of the BEST times to visit this park.  For one thing, it’s in the desert-scrubland that comprises northeast Utah/northwest Colorado, so it gets HOT in the summer (and you all know how much I “love” the heat 😜).  Also, it’s far less busy this time of year and the tree colors are lovely.  We, actually, intentionally held off visiting here, until we could go in the Fall.

We spent our first day on the west (or Utah) side of the monument.  Here you will find the larger–and in my opinion better–Visitor’s Center.  Also, if you’re there for dinosaur bones (and why else would you be visiting?! 😉) this is the side to start on!

The Quarry Exhibit Hall at Dinosaur National Monument

This place was COOL!  Just an FYI, there’s only a few established places where you can actually see dino bones at Dinosaur National Monument.  The town that holds the name “Dinosaur” is on the Colorado side of the park…but there aren’t many bones actually viewable there. 😋  You have to go to the main entrance, which is found in Jensen, Utah (just a little east of Dinosaur, on US 40).  If you’re there when its busy, there’s a free shuttle that takes you to the quarry from the Visitor’s Center.  If you’re there on slower days (which we were) you can drive yourself.

We stayed at a lovely Air B&B in Vernal, Utah, which is about a 30-minute drive west of Dinosaur, Colorado.  This is the largest town in the local area and we were glad we chose it.  It offers easy access to any of the attractions in or around the monument, and also provides the most options for food and lodging.  If you’re wanting to camp, there are several campgrounds within the monument itself, and there is said to be a nice RV park in Dinosaur (though I don’t have any personal experience with that). 

The Quarry is AMAZING!  It’s an enclosed building that was constructed over the site of a former paleontological dig, that contains massive amounts of dinosaur bones.  They were discovered in the early 1900’s.  After much excavation it was finally decided to preserve the remaining bones as-is, and allow people to view them in their natural state.  It’s thought that this was a place where large, flash floods occurred, helping to explain why so many bones ended up in such close proximity to each other.  I could have stayed there all day!

A wall of rock in a building with white, animal bones sticking out of it
At the Quarry. Those are all dinosaur bones from different species that were fossilized in the mud!

From here, you can also hike the Fossil Discovery Trail which shows some fossils that are still embedded in the rocks …

A rock wall with white arrows painted on it pointing to a specific section
If you look closely, the white arrow is pointing to the fossilized spinal column of a dinosaur!

After leaving the Visitor’s Center, we took Cub Creek Road through the park.  This is one of the only paved roads throughout the monument, and even it turns to dirt the final few miles. (This section is well-graded, though, and passable with any passenger vehicle under good conditions.)  It offers several opportunities to view petroglyphs and pictographs (these are the drawings and etchings that were left on the rock by the ancient people who first tamed this wild land).  I had seen pictures of these creations before, but had never viewed them in person.  Some were absolutely AMAZING! 

Aren’t these incredible?!

A sandstone, rock wall with etchings of animals
This is the only place in the park where you can see the lizards.

A sandstone, rock wall with etchings of animals and other figuresA sandstone, rock wall with etchings of figures

A sandstone, rock wall with an etching of a large figure

I’m sure they all had perfectly logical explanations (some of them can be found here) but some looked pretty “unique”…(I’m not saying it’s aliens but…😲😉👽🖖) 

This road eventually takes you to Josie’s Cabin, where up until the 1960’s, a woman lived, by herself, until she was well into her 80’s.  This was without electricity or running water, mind you!  We saw a lot of lovely tree colors in this area.  There were several easy hikes that ventured into box canyons that are known for being good for fall colors (they run right along rivers and streams and the cottonwoods that grow there are very pretty).

An old, wooden cabin sits amongst trees
Josie’s Cabin
A brows-grass meadow with green trees in the foreground and fall-colored trees and a rocky mountain in the background, all under a clear, blue sky
Some of the fall colors along the creekbed
Island Park Road

This was another beautiful drive that is located on the Utah side of the park.  I thought this area had the BEST petroglyphs that we saw throughout the entire monument.

Island Park Road was dirt, and, according to the park office, is said to be “impassable” when wet. (It is suggested to only take high-clearance vehicles on this route, but, when we were there, any vehicle could have handled the drive).

We got lucky, as conditions were absolutely perfect throughout the duration of our trip, with clear skies.  So we were visiting under the most opportune conditions.  There were several areas we drove through that appeared to be dry creek beds, and looked like they could flood easily during wet conditions.  This is also an area that only has one way in or out, so if you drive in under dry conditions, and then a summer thunderstorm pops up…you could find yourself trapped!

Below are a couple of pictures of the Green River as seen from this road…

Lake with trees and rock mountains surrounding it and in the backgroundCalm creek runs through scrubbrush-covered canyon walls on both sides

…and some of the scrubland around the monument (and thanks go out, as usual, to Mr. Trekker for most of these pics!)…

View over a desert landscape. Scrubbrush flatland with a creek in the far background leads to mountainsView over a desert landscape. Scrubbrush flatland leads to dry mountains in the background

Sunset over the monument!

Sunset over a desert landscape with the silhouette of dark mountains in the backgroundSunset over a desert landscape with the silhouette of dark mountains in the background

 

Have you visited this incredible place?  Tell me about your favorite parts of it in the comments!

 

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Camping in the Bighorns

We try to camp in the Bighorns, in northeastern Wyoming, at least once a year!

 

The Trekkers have a tradition of camping in the Bighorns each Labor Day Weekend!  Puppers has been a trooper on our camping trips.  She enjoys riding in the truck (she doesn’t even mind the BUMPY, jarring journeys we’ve taken her down a few 4×4 roads…too much! 😉)  She can keep up with us on the hiking trails and she even handles the tents like a champ (though she needs a little assistance getting in and out of the rooftop tent).

You do have to wonder about people who drive 3+ hours to the wilderness, where they proceed to pee in a bucket and not shower for three days…and call that fun! 🤔😉😎

A rooftop tent is open on top of a trailer, a separate small tent and truck are behind. All in a woodland scene.
One of our camp setups

We finally caved and bought a privacy shelter for this trip, and we were SO glad we did.  It made life SO MUCH easier.  In the past we’ve used the vestibule that came with the rooftop tent, this worked ok, but even I couldn’t stand up straight in it (not to mention Mr. Trekker’s 6’4 frame).  This could be because we have the tent on the trailer rather than on top of the truck, the vestibule likely works better in that situation.  But the shelter worked great for changing, for a bathroom along with our Luggable Loo†, and for a shower using the solar shower.  It was so cool to look up at night and see the Milky Way shining over you while you were changing or “taking care of business”. 😇

The Bighorn Mountains

I know I’ve said this before, and I hate to sound like a broken record, 😇 but I LOVE the Bighorns.  I always forget we aren’t in the depths of the Colorado High Country when we visit there.  I love their stony summits, some still sporting spots of white leftovers from last winter’s snowpack, just above the treeline far below.

I always think of them as their own tiny island of mountains that rises out of the high prairie of northeastern Wyoming, but according to Wikipedia, they’re actually a spur of the Rockies separated from the main mountain chain by the Bighorn Basin.

A creek runs through a wetland area with trees and stony mountains towering in the background.Though this area is just as beautiful as the Rockies, it is FAR less crowded, which makes it so much more pleasant to visit. 😋  There are no lines of people hiking in the Bighorns like we’ve experienced in various places around Colorado.  Also, oftentimes, the lower-elevation plains may be baking in 90-degree weather, while it’s in the 60s-70s, and breezy, in the mountains!

It doesn’t hurt that, depending on which area you are heading to, the Bighorns are a shorter, 3 – 4-hour drive from the Black Hills, rather than the 6 – 8+ hours required to reach the mountains in Colorado ( and that’s just the Front Range, in the east-central portion of the state).  You will still have to drive through rural Wyoming whether you’re going to Colorado or the Bighorns.  However, to reach the mountains in Wyoming, you drive on I-90 the whole way.  It’s a little easier if weather is bad, and you don’t have as much trouble with the Wyoming drivers who like to pass on two-lane roads leaving little room for oncoming cars…(ahem!🤬🤯) ( Of course, all that being said, no one should visit here, ever, it’s just a terrible place to be. 😮😇🙃)

The Bighorns aren’t to be trifled with though.  These mountains are rugged, with little accommodations by way of gas, food, and supplies.  Small towns, such as Buffalo, Ten Sleep, Greybull, and Sheridan dot the area.  But these are few and far between (not to mention pretty tiny, by the standards of “normal” people who aren’t used to the small settlements that are common in the West). 😉  This is a national forest area, not a national park, so even camping accommodations are rustic, rarely offering more than potable water and a pit toilet (and those are the fancy ones)! 😮  So, if you’re looking to visit this area, be prepared to be self-sufficient.  The views will make it worth the trial, though!

The night sky in the Bighorns

There isn’t a lot of light pollution in the Bighorns, so on clear nights, you are treated to an INCREDIBLE light show!  Once the sun sets, the stars and planets come out in abundance.  My whole life, I’ve never seen a night sky that is comparable to what you find in the crisp coolness of the high mountains.  The sky actually looks like it has the measles, as there is almost a rash of stars that covers it.  The cloudy ribbon of the Milky Way is often clearly visible as it stretches across the expanse of darkness.  You can almost sense it glowing from within.  It is truly an incredible sight.

Silent Night in the high mountains

An instrument shows an altitude reading of 7500 feetOur campsite was at about 7500 feet on this visit (oftentimes we stay much higher, closer to 9000-10,000 feet).  We’ve noticed something odd at these high altitudes that we have also experienced in Colorado’s High Country.  There is a distinct lack of “night sounds”.  You don’t hear the chirping of crickets or croaking of frogs in that thinner air, even on warmer nights, and I don’t know why.  Nights tend to be pretty cool in those places, so it may be due to this, or just that there is a very short season where the night air would even be warm enough for the creatures to survive.  But whatever the reason, when we’re up so high I do miss the “chirping” sounds of a summer night.

Dispersed camping in the Bighorn National Forest

Morning on a meadow ringed by trees. The sun is just coming up and is shinning on the mountains in the background.Sometimes when we head out we Disperse Camp.  This is also known as “dry camping”, where you just set up your camp somewhere in the national forest, outside of an established campground.  We tried this for the first time in Colorado, at both State Forest State Park and near Crested Butte.  On both occasions, we did stay at an actual, numbered campsite, it was just away from any campground and we weren’t able to see our neighbors.

On this trip, there were no numbered sites, but they did request that you stay at an already established campsite (designated by fire rings).  I have never experienced such a busy weekend in the Bighorns!  We stayed near Circle Park (there are a lot of “parks” in this region, they are basically just large, meadowy areas amongst the forests).  It was a lovely site with views of the surrounding mountains, but we could see three other campsites from ours (one had a large group in it).  We could hear even more campers, just on the other side of the copse of trees we were camped near.  Next time, we’ll have to try going even farther out if we hope to have more privacy! 😉

Moose in the Bighorns!

Morning in the meadow. A bull moose can be seen at a distance in the grass. The background is forest with the red, morning sun shining on the mountains in the far background.
Ladies and gentlemen, Martin the Moose!

I wasn’t sure if we’d see any moose on this trip since we were sticking mainly to the southern portion of the Bighorns and I wasn’t aware of any waterways running near our campsite (which moose favor).  We lucked out though.  It only happened one time, but at about 6:30 one morning, as the Pup and I were enjoying her “morning constitutional”, I spotted Martin the Bull Moose sauntering through the “park”, down the hill from our campsite!  SUCCESS!!!  Puppers wasn’t sure what to make of that LARGE, funny-looking thing!

Hiking Trails

Circle Park Trail:
A small lake, surrounded by forest
Sherd Lake

We did this same trail on our first trip to the Bighorns, several years ago, in October.  It’s a nice hike, fairly wide and graded, and not terribly steep (though it is quite rocky in several places).  We walked to Sherd Lake, which is absolutely GORGEOUS!  There are views of several nearby mountains, such as Bighorn and Darton Peaks, from here.  This trail is around four miles total, so it’s perfect for a day hike (especially with a not-quite-full-stamina, juvenile, canine friend). 🐶

The trail continues on to several other lakes from there.  It also connects with an 8-mile loop that snakes around the nearby mountain peaks, if you’re looking for a lengthy hike (or a good backpacking trip). 

Maybelle Lake Trail (off Forest Road 430):

A grassy meadow with large rocks sprinkled about, bordered by forestThis hike was deceptively tough.  It’s only about three miles in total length, but it’s overgrown in many spots, very rocky and there are lots of downed trees.  We actually lost the trail several times and had to root around to locate it again.  Other parts of it are PERFECT though.  They feature a flat, graded path through a moist, pine forest, that is surrounded on both sides by a green carpet of ferns, moss, and soft undergrowth.  It almost felt like hiking in the cool rainforests of the Pacific Northwest.  It was such an idyllic sight!

The other difficulty is in reaching this trail.  You have to drive about 45 minutes (one way) on a rugged, 4×4 road to get to the trailhead.  We had done this route several years ago, so we knew what to expect, but this would NOT be appropriate for a normal car, or even just a high clearance vehicle.  If you don’t have a 4×4, with gear intended for off-road purposes, you should NOT attempt this road. (As an example, after trying this route a few years ago, we decided skid plates would be an important addition to the truck.)  After completing the road on this adventure, there is some paint hanging from the skid plates in a few spots (we sure were glad they were there!) 😋

Small lake with rocky, tree-covered mountain peaks in the background
Maybelle Lake

Tensleep Canyon

I’ve mentioned this canyon before, but this is one of the most beautiful places in the Bighorns.  If you are anywhere near this national forest and you have the chance to drive the canyon, you absolutely MUST put it on your list.  It is NOT to be missed.  This is one of our favorite areas in this national forest, and we try to enjoy it whenever we’re nearby.

The canyon is surrounded by arid, rocky cliffs on both sides, and is located on the southwest side of the Bighorn mountains.  One great thing about it is that EVERYONE can experience it.  US 16 is the main road that runs through the middle of the canyon.  It’s an easy-to-drive, paved byway.

For the best views, I would travel down the canyon, from east to west, on Route 435.  This is actually a dirt road that runs parallel to US 16 on the canyon’s southern side.  It’s a very well-graded route though, so as long as you don’t mind your car getting a little dusty, any 2WD vehicle can handle it in good weather (beware, the road may be impassable during snowy or muddy conditions. The road is also closed to vehicles November – June).

It’s a two-way road, but it’s fairly narrow, so take your time and be cautious.  There is room to pass a vehicle coming the other way but both drivers need to be aware as the lane gets tight.

Related posts:  Lake Helen, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming; 4 Don’t Miss Sites in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming; West Tensleep Trail, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming;  Bighorn Medicine Wheel in Wyoming

This route provides better views down the length of the canyon into the dry expanse of Bighorn Basin, that opens up between the western slopes of the Bighorns and the eastern slopes of the Absarokas (near Yellowstone National Park).  While the Bighorns provide cooler conditions, even on the hottest days of the summer, the Basin sits on a high prairie that lies in the rain shadow of the larger mountains, to the west, and bakes under the heat waves of the summer sun.

On your return trip up the canyon, take the paved, US 16 for incredible views of the dun-colored rock and sparse, short, green trees and bushes that comprise the canyon walls.  They stand out in contrast to the deep blue of the sky above.  These views are SO beautiful!

You aren’t very likely to see moose in this area, it’s too dry and hot for the vittles they enjoy dining on.  The northern side of the Bighorns, near routes like US 14 and 14A, are prime spots for spotting these ungulates.

For the best light, it’s best to drive up the canyon, west to east, in the afternoon when the sun is at your back!  Here is a link to a video I made of our drive up the canyon.

We were glad to enjoy another successful, Labor Day, camping trip to the Bighorns.  We really enjoy returning to this area year after year.  There are so many things to see here, it can’t all be done in one weekend!

Have you hiked to Sherd or Maybelle Lakes?  What did you think of the trails?  Tell me about your experiences in the comments!

 

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Acadia National Park: Sunsets, Lighthouses, Hiking and More!

In this post, I review the second half of our New England road trip, our visit to Acadia National Park!

 

Acadia National Park in Maine is a great place to visit!

Mount Desert Island, Bar Harbor and “the Quiet Side” of Acadia National Park

Acadia is a beautiful park that takes up the majority of Mount Desert Island, on Maine’s coast.  Thanks to the waterways that are found near it, this island is a bit oddly shaped.

If you’re a visual person, like me, this map may make the directions I use throughout the rest of the post more clear. 😇 

The main island is composed of two halves. The eastern half contains Bar Harbor and the majority of the touristy sites–this side is far busier.  It definitely offers the most options in way of shops, lodging and food choices, though.  Also, many of the tours leave from here, but the amount of traffic and people can get a little crazy.

The western half of the island lives up to its nickname as “the Quiet Side of Acadia” as it is far less commercialized and therefore, FAR quieter than the other areas on the island.  This is where we rented our “tiny house” Air B&B for the week, and we enjoyed staying here (we live in one of the least populated states in the country, we’re more into wildlife than people 😛).  If you’re seeking a more relaxing stay, I recommend staying here, or the even more remote Schoodic Peninsula.

A pass is required to access basically any of the park sites.  These are available easily online, but only at a few places on-site (the park gates and the Visitor’s Center).  So if you don’t get a pass online, one of your first priorities after arriving here should be to acquire one. 

Also, parking can be quite a challenge.  The outdoor store, L.L. Bean, has been generous enough to pay for the site’s public shuttles, that run throughout the park and much of the island, making them free for visitors.  Bikes can be transported on these, as well.

Acadia was a bit of a different experience for us.  The national parks out west, that we’ve become accustomed to, are frequently located in the middle of nowhere.  They are also usually surrounded by other public lands (such as BLM land, National Forests, etc.)  Also, most national park boundaries surround one big chunk of land.  I had anticipated that Acadia would fit these characteristics, as well.

Acadia National Park surprised me though.  It is comprised of individual segments of land that are surrounded by residential, privately-owned properties.  Much of the park land was donated to the National Park Service by the famous, Rockefeller family, many years ago.

While most of it is found on Mount Desert Island, some also sits on the nearby Schoodic Peninsula (on the mainland) as well as on several islands that are situated a short distance off the coast.  The park’s more residential location means it offers easier access to civilization (lodging, restaurants, and shops) but it also poses a bit of a challenge for parking and viewing some of the natural areas as you have to skirt the privately-owned land.

The Best Things to Do at Acadia National Park:

This park has been on the Trekkers’ “to-do” list for a while now.  See below for some of the highlights we most enjoyed from our visit…

The Best Sunrise and Sunset spots at Acadia:

Due to the park’s location on the east coast of the US, it is set up much better for viewing sunrises rather than sunsets.  This is mainly due to the open ocean being primarily toward the east, while to the west there are forested hills and mountains.

The flat, mirror-like water in a pond reflects the trees that surround it and the pink colors of the setting sun lighting up the gray clouds overhead.

However, if you prefer sunsets, or you want to view both (OR you are lazy, like the Trekkers, and you don’t want to get up at 4 am–or earlier–to go watch the sunrise 😉) I’ll give you some opportune places to catch a nice sunset.

Seal Cove:  We didn’t find this site till one of our last nights on the island, but it’s a fine place to watch the sunset (and its easy to reach too).  This location is on the southwest corner, of the western half, of Mount Desert Island.  This area is a quiet, peaceful place to watch the sunset, and during low tide, it provides a rocky beach to clamber around on.

The parking area for the salt marsh, near Seawall:  We saw a GORGEOUS sunset here, over the salt marsh, to the west.  The setting sun outlined thunderheads far in the distance.  This site makes for a fine place to watch the moonrise over the ocean to the east (or the sunrise, if you’re an early bird).  Based on the activities of other visitors that we saw there, this is also a prime spot for clamming during low-tide.  No matter the reason you’re stopping here to visit, be sure to bring the mosquito spray!  This site is found on the southeast corner of the western, “Quiet Side” of the island.

The flat, mirror-like water in a pond reflects the trees that surround it and the pink colors of the setting sun lighting up the gray clouds overhead.
Sunset over the salt marsh near Seawall. Check out those storm clouds backlit by the sun!
The yellow, setting sun shines through the clouds and is reflected on the ocean water. Dark, tree-covered hills are in the foreground
The full moon over the Atlantic Ocean as seen from Seawall

Cadillac Mountain:  This is the highest point on the island and in the park.  On clear days, it allows for FANTASTIC views of the nearby mountains, and, of course, the Atlantic Ocean and the islands that dot its bays.  Sunrise is the busiest time to visit this locale, though the Blue Hill Overlook, found shortly before you reach the summit, would make for a fine place to view the sunset as it faces west.  This site can be reached off the Park Loop Road on the eastern half of the island.

Bass Harbor Lighthouse:  It’s difficult to really see the sunset from here as it faces roughly south and there are hills that block your view to the west.  However, the way the setting sun makes the sky glow, and the way that frames the lighthouse against the rocky shoreline is quite lovely.  This site is found on the southern tip of the “Quiet Side” of the island, south of Southwest Harbor.

In the darkening light, a white building and lighthouse with a reddish-orange light on top. A bell sits in front of the lighthouse tower
Bass Harbor Light, at sunset

In the darkening light, a white lighthouse tower with a reddish-orange light on top is spotted through the pine trees

Acadia’s Lighthouses

With it’s unique location directly on the coast of Maine, Acadia offers many cool lighthouses to visit!

A white building and lighthouse. A bell sits in front of the lighthouse tower

Bass Harbor Lighthouse:  This is the only lighthouse in Acadia that can be easily reached and viewed by car.  It’s also a regularly photographed spot (for good reason.)  It’s manned by the Coast Guard now, so you can’t actually go up it, but you can walk to its base.  There is a short, hiking trail that leads to the rocks on the light’s opposite side, that is nice as well–this is also the viewpoint for sunrise/sunset!  

Bear Island Lighthouse:  This is one of the only other lighthouses near Acadia that can be viewed from shore/by car, and it takes work.  We ended up with a bit of a quest to find it, but we managed, eventually! 

Based on the light’s location on the map, we knew it should be visible from the shore.  So, for several evenings, we drove around trying to catch a glimpse of it.  Alas, all those pesky trees that grow on the East Coast (and some of the privately-owned, residential land) made it difficult. 😉  We DID finally find it though (without trespassing I might add 😉). 

**If you’d like to set out on your own quest to search for it yourself, be my guest.  If, however, you’d like directions on how to find it, scroll to the bottom of this post and I’ll leave them there.** 

If you visit Acadia National Park and enjoy lighthouses as we do, I highly recommend taking a lighthouse boat tour.  Almost all of the structures reside on nearby islands, and some are open for touring, at certain times of the year.  I didn’t realize just how many islands are included within the park’s boundaries (and scattered around the nearby waterways).  This means many of the lights can really only be viewed from the water.

Hiking Trails around Acadia:

There are numerous hikes available at Acadia, ranging from short to lengthy and easy to difficult.  Below are the ones we enjoyed:

The Beehive/Bowl/Gorham Mountain Trails:  The Beehive Trail is an AWESOME hike!  This was on my “must-do” list while visiting Acadia.  This trail is the little brother to the infamous “Precipice Trail”.  Now THAT ONE looks scary.  It was actually closed when we were there (and is for much of each summer) due to it being a nesting area for peregrine falcons. 

We knew this going in, and I was fine with it.  I don’t know that my fear of heights would allow me to complete this scramble up the side of a mountain. 

Wooden signpost marks the start of two hiking trails. The sign reads, "Bowl Trail--Beehive Trail 2mi/3km; The Bowl .9 mi/1.3km"

All of these trailheads can be accessed via the Park Loop Road on the eastern side of Mount Desert Island, south of Bar Harbor.

Wooden signpost reads, "Beehive Summit Elev 520 ft/160m

We also combined the Bowl and Gorham Mountain Trails into this hike, as they all connect.  We had intended to make a loop of it by including the Cadillac Cliffs Path, and then take the Ocean Path back to the parking area, but I was starting to have my usual struggles with the heat, so we cut it a bit short.

All of these trails were of moderate length.  The Bowl and Gorham Mountain Trails were moderately strenuous.  The Beehive Trail was quite strenuous (though mercifully short) as you basically scramble up the side of the mountain, free-climbing over boulders and using iron rungs that have been strategically placed throughout the route.

The picture below looks pretty terrifying, but it actually wasn’t that bad.  Trust me, I don’t like heights, but there was only one brief moment when I became uncomfortable (and it can be crossed in just a few steps).  The views from the top are INCREDIBLE though, and make the trek worth it!  If you’re hot, you can loop around and take a dip in the refreshing Bowl in the valley below!

A park climbs up a rock wall on metal rungs in the foreground. In the background, green, tree-covered hills spread far below
Mr. Trekker’s brush with death on “The Beehive” (it’s actually not NEARLY as bad as it looks, but this pic is GREAT, right?! 😉)
Green trees in the foreground with a rock wall, scattered with trees in the background, all under a blue sky. A line of tiny, multi-colored hikers is climbing the rock wall
A line of hikers ascending The Beehive
Green trees in the foreground, a green, tree-covered mountain rises in the middle, all under a blue sky
The Beehive as seen from Gorham Mountain
A small lake surround by trees and green, tree covered mountains, all under a blue sky
The Bowl

Wooden sign post on a rocky, mountain summit. Green, tree-covered mountains rise in the background. Sign post reads, "Gorham Mtn. Elev. 525'/163 m

A rocky, mountain summit in the foreground. Green, tree-covered hills stretch to the blue ocean in the background, all under a clear, blue sky
The view from the Gorham Mountain summit

Great Head Trail:  Because we chose to cut the above route short, we were able to enjoy a good portion of this trail that is found in the forest, just to the west of Sand Beach.  Sand Beach can be reached from the same parking area as the Beehive/Bowl trailheads.  This was really convenient as we were able to park the car once and hike for most of the day (just make sure to get there early!)  

Green trees in the foreground overlook a blue-water bay that leads to a narrow, sandy beach. Green, tree-covered mountains rise in the background
Sand Beach

Wonderland Trail and Ship Harbor Trail:

The Wonderland and Ship Harbor Trails are accessed via Route 102A, on the western side of the island, south of Southwest Harbor.

These hikes were short, easy and VERY enjoyable.  Due to their location on “the Quiet Side” of the island, they were much less busy than other areas of the park. 

Mr. Trekker thought the photography opportunities they offered were comparable to ones we found in many of the more well-traveled sections of the park, as well. 

These routes take you down to the shore where you can walk the rocks and view the organisms living in the tide pools (at low tide). 

Other Fun Things to do at Acadia National Park:

Thunder Hole:  So this place is pretty awesome…when the winds and tide are strong.  When the conditions are right…the wind forces the waves into a small cave on the shore, which then, in turn, forces air out of the cave creating a crashing sound that reverberates off the nearby rocks!

Click here to see its full potential! (Take note, when we visited this site we were standing on the walkway you see at the bottom of the video, and others were standing on the rocks at the top of the frame. 😮–the trail is closed during this type of bad weather.)

When conditions aren’t right…it’s still cool, but not quite the draw it could be.  Fortunately, we were blessed with pretty nice weather throughout our trip.  Unfortunately, nice weather doesn’t bode well to experience the full effect of this location.  When we were there it was more like  “gurgle hole”.  😂

Carriage Roads:  This is another activity I’d put on our “must-do” list if we return to the park in the future.  These gravel roads snake throughout the forests of the interior of the island.  Bike rentals are available, though you still need to figure out how to get the bike to the trails. (I’d recommend bringing your own.  We considered it, but decided not to drag our bikes on a 5000+ mile road trip for one day of biking. 😛)

These trails were used by the Rockefeller family for their carriages when they owned the land–hence their name.  There are also some carriage rides still available through the stables on the island, where your carriage is pulled by beautiful draft horses!

Jordan Pond/”The Bubbles”:  As I mentioned in a previous post, Jordan Pond is again a place where they use the word “pond” when “lake” would make a much better descriptor. 😂  Several carriage roads start from here.  There’s also a restaurant and store in the historic building that was the original farmhouse built on this site.

There is a decent hiking trail that circles the lake.  We only did a portion of it (the easy part that was on a boardwalk).  The other half appeared to be more rugged.  I don’t think it had much elevation gain, just a lot of rocks to clamber over.

We met a lady later in the day, who had actually slipped off some rocks on the harder section and fell in the lake 😮 (she was fine). 

A narrow, wooden boardwalk through the pine trees
The boardwalk on the trail around Jordan Pond

The boardwalk portion is basically completely flat and offers fine views of the lake, the nearby building and “The Bubbles”–I’m not sure who gave this name to these twin mountains.  They looked like something more PG-13 rated to me but…to each their own. 😱

Green grass in the foreground with a large lake in the background, leading to twin mountains covered in green trees
The “Bubbles”. What do these look like to you? I mean, come on! 😝

Cadillac Mountain:  We actually chose NOT to hike Cadillac Mountain on this trip.  This was for several reasons:

–We only had a few days at Acadia and we can hike mountains whenever we want, but we CAN’T visit the beach too often.  So, we chose to spend most of our time there. 

–Also, aspiring hikers should be aware that much of Cadillac Mountain trail has little shade, so it can be quite hot in the summer months. (This was another reason we chose to skip it, as heat and I don’t get along. 😝) 

We did make the easy drive to the summit on multiple occasions.  Sunrise is a busy time here, for obvious reasons, so if you’re choosing to go then I suggest you plan to leave early.  It’s beautiful at any time of day though, so long as the weather is clear. 

In the far background, several small, green, tree-covered, circular islands sit in a bay of the ocean. Green , tree-covered mountains run to the ocean in the foreground and are in the far background, behind the bay
The islands in the bay as seen from the summit of Cadillac Mountain

The Park Loop Road:  This road basically “loops” around the outer boundaries of the park (hence the name).  It features numerous pull offs where scenic views can be enjoyed, as well as plenty of recreational sites.  There are several picturesque bridges along its length that reminded us of the ones we saw in Virginia on the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Wildlife:  We were told there are bears and moose on the Schoodic Peninsula portion of the park, on the mainland.  Other than that, the majority of exotic wildlife that Acadia offers is sea life.  (This would have been a cool sight as we don’t usually see these types of critters at the landlocked national parks we frequent in the Western US!)

We didn’t see many sea creatures, but this is likely due to the fact that we didn’t venture out on the water.  There are whale watch tours that depart from near the park.  I’ve also heard stories of people who go on sea kayaking tours where seals and dolphins are known to come close and curiously inspect the watercraft. 

As we only had a few days here, we chose not to do these, but if we return for a future visit, they’ll definitely be on our “to-do” list.  If you visit the park, I would encourage you to seek these out as you may see some unique wildlife not always available at other parks.

LOBSTER!!!

I got to enjoy my first lobster on this trip (and my first New England lobster roll!)  I liked it!

I got a “classic” roll, with the lobster already shelled for you and warmed with butter, on a buttered, toasted roll.  It was easy and delicious!  After watching many of our seat-mates struggling to crack through the shells of their dinner, I was happy to go the easy route.

We enjoyed our meal at Beal’s Lobster Pier in Southwest Harbor.  This place is NOT fancy (and I mean that in a good way).  It was the PERFECT place for us to enjoy our first lobster experience, though.

It’s basically a walk-up counter, and then your number is called and you get your food.  You enjoy it outside, or on a screened-in porch, all on picnic tables.  We absolutely LOVED it! 

If you’re looking for something more up-scale, there’s plenty of options for those as well, but the Trekkers are a casual bunch. 😛

A lobster roll with chips and a pickle on a tray
LOBSTA!

We really enjoyed this trip!  Our goal was to travel as few interstates as possible once we reached “northern New England”, and we felt like we were fairly successful at that.

I’ve mentioned before how much I enjoy taking the slower backroads (and by this, I mean anything from two-lane, US highways to dirt, county and forest roads).  We’re already planning another trip to that area in the next few years, to more fully explore the Adirondacks and Finger Lakes regions of New York, as well as more of Vermont and New Hampshire.  On that trip, we’ll map out “backroads” more before we go, with the goal being to avoid interstates as much as possible once we reach New York! 

I hope you enjoyed my review of Acadia.  It definitely has some unique characteristics as far as national parks are concerned.  We enjoyed visiting it, and would certainly consider another trip.  While we love living in the Black Hills, we both miss easier access to the ocean (especially Mr. Trekker).  Neither of us is really a “beach bum”, but exploring the rugged, rocky shores of Maine is right up our alley!

A few more pics from the trip:

Car consul display reads P (for parked); 5,088 miles
The final mileage tally. And this was about 50 miles short, as we forgot to set it until we got to Wall, SD on the way out of town. 😝
A tiny, wooden, wagon-cabin sits amongst the trees on a gravel road
Our “tiny house” Air B&B for the week
Rear view of a man standing on the rocky shore, taking a picture while looking out into the water
“A wild photographer stalks his prey!” (said in my best “Steve Irwin” voice) 😁
A boat and metal dock rest on bare rocks across a shallow bay. A short, tree-covered, rocky hill is in the background
I call this one, “low tide is weird”. 😝

 

**SPOILER ALERT!!!**

OK, if you want to know how to find the Bear Island lighthouse, you can spot it, flashing at night, from a public parking lot off of Norwood Road, east of Southwest Harbor.  Good luck on your quest!  I don’t actually know if it’s visible from there in the daylight, we didn’t get over there at that time of day.  If anyone knows of other places to view the lighthouse from public land, let me know in the comments!

 

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Four pictures: 1) Several small, green, tree-covered, circular islands sit in a bay of the ocean in the far background. Green , tree-covered mountains run to the ocean in the foreground; 2) View from a rocky cliff looking down into the water far below; 3) A creek runs through a green-grass meadow between tree-covered mountains; 4) View from a rocky cliff looking down to the water far below. Pin reads, "Acadia National Park Sunsets, lighthouses, hiking and more!"

 

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9 “Don’t Miss” Places for Your Vermont and New Hampshire Road Trip

In this post, I review the New England road trip we took through Vermont and New Hampshire during the summer of 2019.

 

3 weeks, 13 states, 5,138 miles, and 2 quarts of oil (FYI, Subarus inhale oil) gives you a grand New England Road Trip!  Because, when you live in Western South Dakota, why wouldn’t you drive all the way to the coast of Maine for summer vacation? 😮😛

In 2019 the Trekkers spent three weeks on a whirlwind tour of the Northeast. We spent the first week visiting with Mr. Trekkers’ family in Connecticut, enjoying some of the old haunts from his childhood.  Then we spent a weekend toodling around Vermont and New Hampshire, and then enjoyed several days at Acadia National Park, in Maine.  We finished with a quick visit with my family in Indiana on the way back. Read on for “Don’t Miss” places for your Vermont and New Hampshire road trip! 

Northern New England Countryside

I love northern New England!  After traveling the crazy highways that snake all around its southern section, you hit the Vermont state line and life seems to slow down a little, again.  You find yourself quickly returning to the small-town charm of country towns; earthy, damp smells radiate from the walls of green trees and ferns in the woods that surround you.  It feels different here… most of the trees are deciduous hardwoods, whereas we’re used to the evergreens more commonly found in the Black Hills (and areas of Colorado that we frequent).  It feels almost like a rainforest compared to the more arid land we’re used to.  It reminded us a bit of the Redwood forests in California (except without the Redwood trees 😛).

“Don’t Miss” sites in Vermont and New Hampshire

Below are some highlights from our whirlwind tour…

Route 100, Vermont:

We traversed much of this scenic byway that spans the majority of the state, from north to south.  Several of the locations listed below were found on or near that road.  Throughout these travels, we enjoyed one of Vermont’s prime attractions, covered bridges, as well.  

Small waterfall trickles down rocks into a rocky pool of water, surrounded by forest and boulders
Moss Glen Falls

A waterfall over rocks landing in a pool at the bottom in the middle of the woods

 

For more pictures of some great waterfalls around New England, check out my friend, Kathy’s blog here.

 

A waterfall over rocks landing in a pool at the bottom in the middle of the woods. Large rocks sit in a pile near the pool of water

Large, covered bridge spans a river
Covered bridge over the Quechee River

Large, covered bridge spans a river

Ben and Jerry’s Flagship Store, Waterbury Vermont: 

We decided we didn’t have time to actually do the factory tour where you can watch how the ice cream is made (though that would have been REALLY cool).  However, we did get ice cream from the official store, and I’ve got a tie-dyed t-shirt to prove it!  We did take the time to check out a portion of the grounds called the “flavor graveyard”.  It was a little weird 🙃 but it was interesting seeing the various flavor options that have come and gone throughout the years.  Check out the website for the factory here. 

Cold Hollow Cider Mill, Waterbury, VT: 

Just up the road from Ben and Jerry’s is a cool cider mill.  It specializes in fresh-baked, cider donuts.  I thought they tasted more like spice cake, but either way, they were good! Click here to check out the website for the mill! 

The Vermont Country Store, Weston, VT: 

This place was nice.  It kind of reminded me of Wall Drug, in Wall, SD, but was far less immense.  It was definitely a cute place to pick up some local delicacies and check out some cool, retro toys and games from the ’80s, that brought back memories of our childhoods. 😁

Quechee Gorge, Hartford, VT: 

This place was really cool!  The Ottauquechee River cuts through over 100 feet of rock in this area, the result is a GORGEOUS, scenic view.  A hiking trail nearby takes you on an easy hike of less than one mile, to the head of the gorge, where the river is dammed.  This provides a unique view down the length of the canyon. 

The trail also traverses about a mile downhill, the length of the gorge, to where the river emerges from the rock again.  This is a popular swimming area.  Be aware though, as it’s downhill from the main parking lot all the way to the swimming site, you know what that means for the return trip! 😛

Looking through a hole in the trees, a dam in the background narrows into a large waterfall over some rocks
The dam at the head of the Quechee Gorge
Looking down the length of a tree-lined gorge from above. Rocky walls lead to the river far below
This pic gives you an idea of how deep the gorge is
Looking down the length of a tree-lined gorge from above with tree-covered mountains in the background
A view of the gorge from the bridge

Looking down the length of a tree-lined gorge from eye level

Simon Pearce Glass Mill and Store, Quechee, VT: 

Ran using hydroelectric power from the same river that formed the Quechee Gorge, this place was AWESOME!  We were able to watch the artisans blow and shape the glass in the mill, in the basement, while the final product is sold in the store upstairs.  The shop also features a nice restaurant that overlooks the river. 

We decided the creations (even the seconds) were a little too rich for our blood, especially with the risk of breaking them as it was the middle of a lengthy road trip!

A glass blower crafts red-hot, liquid glass in a workshop
A glassblower craftsman at Simon Pearce

Camping at State Parks in Vermont and Maine

Because we enjoy camping, and it helps to keep costs down when on road trips, we spent a few nights at state parks in both Vermont and Maine. The mosquitoes were bad throughout the trip, but that’s to be expected in the middle of the damp woods. 😉

I’m a nature girl, I like critters, even the slithery, skittering, venomous–if we must–kind, as long as we can leave each other alone.  What I can’t abide are mosquitoes.  Seriously, why, just why?  That will be one of the many questions I have for the “Big Guy” someday. 

What purpose do they serve?  Food for other critters?  That’s fine, but why do they have to suck OUR blood, causing welts that itch to high heaven (and are bigger than the critter that left them) that last for days on end, and can even end up infected due to excessive scratching brought on by the extreme itching (I know from experience).  A bug that DOESN’T carry potentially deadly disease couldn’t fill that spot?  I’m just saying. 😛  They say God doesn’t make mistakes but the presence of mosquitoes makes me wonder a bit. 🤔  

The campsites throughout the campgrounds were largely gravel and flat.  They have large stone hearths to use for fires, we aren’t used to that in the Black Hills.  It made me think of the Flintstones. 😂  Most of the sites were large enough they could fit a small trailer/pop-up camper (we just brought the old, trusty, ground tent for this trip).  There were also flush toilets, electricity, and showers (oh my! 😱)  I can’t remember the last time we had those types of “fancy” amenities when camping! 😉 

This may be because it’s been a while since we stayed at a state park.  We’ve gotten used to national forest sites, with their vault toilets (and that’s it). 😋  Other than their more rustic accommodations though, national forests are still my favorite places to camp.

Below are some of the parks we visited:

Coolidge State Park, Plymouth, VT: 

This is a newer park, and it includes buildings from the historical homestead of the 30th President of the United States, Calvin Coolidge.  This was the first place we camped, and the quietest.  Sites were shaded and well-separated from each other.

A tent sits on a wooded campsite
Our campsite at Coolidge State Park
New Discovery State Park, Marshfield, VT: 

This place was cute.  It rained that night, but not till we were nearing the end of our fire logs, so it was a nice sound to lull us to sleep.  There was a weird bird that kept attacking its reflection in the side mirror of my car, and a garter snake got my heart racing when it crawled out of a hole in our fire hearth! 😱  Other than these visitors, though, it was a decent little campground.

Sebago Lake State Park, Naples, ME: 

Funnily enough, I actually completed a writeup about this park, just a few weeks before we visited, for an online job I had at the time!  This was the busiest park we stayed at, with sites that were placed the closest together.  They were nice, and shaded, and allowed you close contact with all your New Yorker neighbors 😋 (we definitely don’t hear the Brooklyn accent much out in Western South Dakota! 😂)  One unique aspect of this area was all the sycamore trees, with their LARGE, scalloped leaves. 

This park sits on the northern shores of the VERY large, Sebago Lake.  It was cold, but refreshing to swim in.  We enjoyed our almost-lakeside campsite.  It was cool watching the full moon rise over the flat, mirrored waters of the lake after dark.

A full moon in the dark, night sky. It is reflected in the dark water of the lake, below
The full moon over Sebago Lake
A small fire in a rocky hearth in a campground
The cool, rock, fire hearth

Camping in Vermont

I love camping!  I love the random, natural experiences you have that you don’t notice cooped up in a house…the sun that dapples through the treetops as water droplets dribble and drip from the still-wet leaves after the rainstorm from the night before…you can see blue sky and stars peeking through the crowns of the trees…the sunbeams filter through the crown of tree leaves and slice through the morning mists that rise from the damp ground…you wake up in the morning to the granddaddy-long-leg who waves at you from his perch on the outside of your tent…

Blue sky through a crown of green trees

Vermont state parks are pretty nice.  They have lean-to’s that can be rented out, which we’ve never seen at developed campgrounds before.  They don’t seem like they would provide the most privacy or protection from the weather–or any critters–as it appeared people just set their hammocks/sleeping gear up in the shelter that has a roof, but only three walls.  We did see several people putting up tarps as a fourth wall.

They’re big on their “ponds” in New England, except many of them are bigger than the “lakes”.  Many are as big as some of the largest reservoirs in the Black Hills.  They may need to work on their wording a bit. 😋

Scenic Drives in New Hampshire

As we’ve already driven several of the main scenic routes through the White Mountains in New Hampshire, this time we chose to try out the northern route (US 2 to Route 16).  As it turns out, this isn’t nearly as pretty as the scenic byways that are comprised of Route 112 and US 302, that traverse areas such as Franconia Notch.  Those areas are GORGEOUS!

We then ventured into North Conway for lunch.  This was our second time visiting this little town.  We realized we had been there almost exactly 10 years ago, shortly before we got married! 

We had attempted to hike the infamous Mount Washington on that trip, but we didn’t make it to the summit thanks to several factors (including a certain blogger leaving breakfast on the side of the mountain 🤮).  I want to come back and try it again though, Tuckerman Ravine looks SO beautiful!  Now that we hike more regularly and are FAR more used to higher altitudes, I’m hoping we’ll be able to handle it a bit better.

Green, tree-covered mountains cloaked in clouds
Mount Washington, lost in the clouds (it’s the peak you can’t see)

Both of the Trekkers visited New Hampshire several times throughout our childhoods and we always really enjoyed it.   We were surprised to note that, on this trip, we both found the woods of southern Vermont to be more welcoming than the rugged forests of northern Vermont and New Hampshire/Maine. (The northern mountains reminded us of the Black Hills so they didn’t seem as much like a vacation. 😋)  They also reminded us of other northern forests that we’ve been to, such as those in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, those in Glacier National Park/northwestern Montana, those in the Big Horns, and those in northern Colorado (such as in State Forest State Park).

Looking for more amazing pictures of the New England mountains? Check out the Rusch to the Outdoors blog!

It got us to thinking about how much has happened in 10 years:  we got married; we moved to South Dakota; there were new jobs for both of us; we bought a house…what will the next 10 years bring?  Good things hopefully!

Next up,  Part 2 of our trip, Acadia National Park! 

Have you ever been to these parts of New Hampshire or Vermont? Tell me about your experiences in the comments! 

 

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Three pictures: 1) A waterfall over rocks landing in a pool at the bottom in the middle of the woods; 2) Large, covered bridge spans a river; 3) Looking down the length of a tree-lined gorge from above with tree-covered mountains in the background. Pin reads, "9 'Don't Miss' places for your next Vermont and New Hampshire Road Trip"

 

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Going to the Sun Road at Glacier National Park

In this post, I review Going to the Sun Road at Glacier National Park.

 

Author’s Note: Since we visited Glacier in 2016, the Park Service has implemented a complex, ticket system for visiting the park in the summer. To be honest, I can’t make much sense of it as it involves multiple tickets being required to enjoy various activities around the park. For more information on this system, visit the park website and/or contact the park office. 

While on our visit to Glacier National Park, we drove the famed Going to the Sun Road.  We also learned some tips to keep in mind when traversing rural Montana.

Montana

If you’ve never been there, Montana is a HUGE state.  It takes 8+ hours to cross it when traveling 80 mph (the posted speed limit) and that’s on the Interstate!  It’s absolutely beautiful though!  I never realized how many mountains crisscross their way through the rolling prairies of that state. 
Montana DOT could do with some better signage.  Several times we had to turn around and retrace our steps to find the correct turn–either due to a complete lack of, or unclear, signage.  Frequently there would be large signs pointing the way when coming from one direction; and little to no signage when coming from the other.

It was also, often difficult to decipher which “turn ahead” was the right one–one time it would be the turn DIRECTLY after the sign, while others it would be three turns later after passing numerous side streets. 😛 

Information on local services was also lacking.  We limped the car into Missoula the first night, as we failed to realize how far the distance would be on the interstate between reliable gas opportunities–fortunately, gravity was on our side as a steep grade downhill ushers you into town and the CRV gets good gas mileage!

At least South Dakota provides some warning in these situations with billboards containing messages such as “gas now or gas can later”. 

Montana also has a habit of closing rest stops with little or no warning which is especially problematic when each rest stop can be more than 50 miles apart!

Glacier National Park

Glacier National Park is absolutely BEAU-tiful, as is the surrounding area!  It wasn’t nearly as crowded with visitors as Yellowstone–though as we learned later, being there at the end of June put us at just the beginning of the very short, summer season.  Several hiking trails in the higher elevations were still closed due to snow hazards (and this is normal!) 

Part of the reason it isn’t nearly as crowded as other national parks is that it is, quite literally, in the middle of nowhere.  West Glacier (the western terminus) is almost 140 miles from I-90.  It took us over three hours to drive that distance on winding, mountain roads, sometimes traveling 15 mph lower than the posted speed limit while following large RVs.  Likewise, the other side of the park, St. Mary (the eastern terminus) is almost 90 miles from I-15. 

We didn’t camp on this trip.  However, if you’re looking for some great info on camping at Glacier National Park, click here!

The scenery found on all of these drives is incredible though.  I actually recommend arriving at the park from the east side (driving up through the prairie) as you’ll have a commanding view of the Rockies for a much larger portion of the drive.  If you come into the park from the west, the overall drive is prettier–complete with mountain lakes and twisting curves–but the mountain views are largely obscured by trees and other, smaller hills. 

Large tree-covered mountainsides with bits of snow on their rocky tops, all under a clear blue sky. A river runs through the valley below.
Isn’t this gorgeous?!

Limited Services in Northwest Montana

We were also surprised at the limited access to everyday services of this high-tourist area.  Both West Glacier and St. Mary’s appeared to be reasonably sized towns based on the map (and their proximity to the park)–and they are decently-sized as towns in Northwest Montana are concerned–but they lack many basic services.

I personally required some OTC medication thanks to the side effects of antibiotics, and we had to travel an hour out of our way to finally locate a pharmacy to acquire it (a feat that would have been accomplished in about five minutes in most other rural parts of the country).  So something that should have been nothing more than a temporary annoyance ended up causing a real hindrance to the enjoyment of the trip. 

Having never been to the area before, my early online research made St. Mary appear to be far more commercialized than West Glacier; the map indicated this as well…it wasn’t.  St. Mary consisted mainly of one gas station/small supermarket/restaurant/gift shop and a smattering of campgrounds and roadside cafes.

We returned to this area several years later. Below are the posts relating to that trip!:

Ghost Towns in Southwestern Montana
6 Don’t Miss Places for your Western Montana Road Trip


West Glacier at least had two separate gas stations and several restaurants/shops within walking–or a short driving–distance.  I don’t say these things to complain, you are in the wilderness after all, but more as a caution for preparedness.

Going to the Sun Road

Glacier National Park consists largely of the east and west termini, and a road connecting the two, through the mountain passes (Going to the Sun Road) that’s only open about four months of the year.  The rest of the year it’s buried under up to 30 feet of snow (near Logan Pass) and is frequently plagued by avalanches.

While the two towns are only 50 miles apart it can easily take three hours or more to cross the divide (due to other drivers, the slow speed limit forced by sharp turns and steep inclines, and frequent stops at the many lookouts along the way.) 

It’s an absolutely awe-inspiring view though, and I highly recommend taking your time to fully enjoy your surroundings…and possibly stop for a picnic lunch!

Stop at the turnouts and enjoy the roar of the water filtering up through the canyon, as well as the smell of the sweet, clear mountain breezes.  Notice the contrasts in color of the deep grey or brown/red rock and the blindingly white snowfields of the higher elevations, that all stand out against the vibrant green foliage of the lower altitudes.  To top it off the dome of the sapphire blue sky crowns it all (this area is called the Crown of the Continent!)

A green meadow with a snow field in the foreground. Large, rocky mountains in the background.
The view from Logan Pass

Large, rocky mountain looming over shorter, grass and tree-covered mountains, all under a blue sky dotted with white, puffy clouds.While not as crowded as other parks we’ve been to, there were still plenty of visitors milling about.  Be sure to be watchful for people (and wildlife) that may appear before you around a sharp turn with little or no warning.  There are also many road bikers who must be carefully passed in addition to negotiating the sharp curves.

For someone who is afraid of heights, the trip can be quite anxiety-provoking, especially if traveling west to east (on the outside lane) and if you’re the passenger.  Frequently along the route, the only thing separating you from precipitous drops of 1000 feet or more is a low stone wall! (This also reminded us of Route 550 in Colorado, the Million Dollar Highway!)

I also recommend traveling the road several times, at different times of day, as the light changes the views greatly.  The second time we drove the road was in the evening with the sun at a lower angle, and not only were the colors more vibrant, but subtler details (such as smaller waterfalls) stood out in greater contrast.  I mentioned earlier that we unintentionally arrived early in the busy season.  While this assisted us in beating the crowds, it also had the unintended effect of potentially providing more beautiful views.  We were told by locals that it had been unusually rainy as of late and this, along with late-season snow/glacier melt, contributed to some incredible waterfalls cascading down the steep mountain walls into the canyon.  As the season wanes these falls tend to dry up and become merely trickles.

Related posts:  5 Things you Don’t Want to Miss at Glacier National Park; Swiftcurrent Trail at Glacier National Park and 5 Other “Don’t Miss” Sites!; Gunsight Pass Trail, Glacier National Park; Glacier National Park: Hiking the Apgar Lookout Trail

Are the glaciers melting in Glacier National Park?

Many scientists believe the park will be completely glacier-free within the next 50 years due to warming temperatures.  I hope they are wrong about this as it will have profound effects on the various ecosystems that comprise the park.

You’ll notice as you traverse the road that these systems vary from arid, high plains on the eastern side…to alpine tundra at Logan Pass…to the temperate rainforest at the lower elevations on the western side of the park.  Many of the lakes are fed by glacial springs and/or snowmelt from the long winters.  If these glaciers dry up and/or less snow accumulates in the winter months to feed the lakes, it’s possible they may dry up (or their water levels will significantly lessen) as well.  This will hinder the survivability of the vast array of flora and fauna that make up these ecosystems.

There is already evidence that the warmer temperatures are causing an increase in foliage and subsequent treeline which impedes on the tundra.  Many alpine plants grow only in tundra regions and could become endangered/extinct if these consequences are borne out to their fullest extent.  This could have far-reaching effects that can’t even be fully calculated at this time.

Below is a picture from the Going to the Sun Road.  This was taken near Logan Pass, the highest point on the road, at around 9,000 feet.  Notice the narrow brick wall at the bottom separating the car from the dropoff!

 View from a rocky wall overlooking a vista of a mountain valley with tall tree and snow-covered mountains on both sides, all under a clear, blue sky.

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This is one of the most beautiful drives I have ever enjoyed.  Everyone should have Glacier National Park on their Bucket List!

Have you ridden on the Going to the Sun Road?  How was your experience?  Tell me about it in the comments!

 

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Large, rocky mountain looming over shorter, grass and tree-covered mountains, all under a blue sky dotted with white, puffy clouds. Pin reads, "Going to the Sun Road: Glacier National Park."

 

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5 Things you Don’t Want to Miss at Glacier National Park

In this post I describe some of the highlights of our trip to Glacier National Park, in 2016!


Author’s Note: Since we visited Glacier in 2016, the Park Service has implemented a complex, ticket system for visiting the park in the summer. To be honest, I can’t make much sense of it as it involves multiple tickets being required to enjoy various activities around the park. For more information on this system, visit the park website and/or contact the park office. 

Glacier National Park is one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. The views there are comparable to the ones I saw in the Andes Mountains of Peru when I visited there in 2001.  The Trekkers had an incredible time visiting Glacier (and hope to return someday).  Most people are aware of the park’s acclaimed, Going to the Sun Road, but there are other fun things to do, as well!  In this post, I have outlined 5 not-to-miss sights to see on your trip to the park.

Not-to-Miss Things to See at Glacier National Park

Polebridge, Montana

The tiny town of Polebridge sits about 25 miles north of the park, and only around 15 miles south of the Canadian border.  It is located on North Fork Road.

When I say “tiny”, that is not an exaggeration!   Its main draw is the Mercantile (a historic, general store that is known for its DELICIOUS homemade pastries, the Trekkers especially recommend the huckleberry bear claws!).  The tiny community also consists of a saloon where we had lunch (I highly recommend the homemade potato wedges and ranch dressing) and a few cabins available for rent…and that’s it! 😮 

This little village is the starting point for several hiking trails in the area and there are numerous lakes nearby.

An old storefront with "Polebridge Mercantile" on the front and cars sitting out front
Polebridge Mercantile

Bowman Lake

We visited Bowman Lake and hiked a portion of the Bowman Lake Trail there.

The trail was a simple walk through the woods, on a smooth trail, with little to no elevation gain.  It wasn’t crowded, though we did see several other hikers.  Be watchful for bears in this area–as well as throughout the entire park.  We did not see any but did see evidence that they had been nearby in the past.

The Bowman Lake Trail could be made into a full-day excursion to the end of the lake and back (the lake is six miles long) or enjoyed as a multi-day backpacking trip if one wished to take advantage of all the trails that connect to it.

With the gorgeous views afforded here of the mountains and their reflections on the aquamarine water, this is one of the most picturesque places I have ever seen.

Mountain vista across a flat lake with tree-covered, rocky and snow-speckled mountains towering on both sides.
Bowman Lake, the picture does not do the color of the water justice

The Canadian Border

Being that we were so close to the Canadian border we decided we HAD to drive up and say “hello” to our friendly neighbors to the north.  We knew there used to be a border crossing in this area but that it had been closed for many years.  We were expecting some sort of obvious signage indicating the divide between the two countries, a fence preventing entry, something…we were in for a bit of a surprise…

You reach the border by traveling north from Polebridge on a narrow dirt road.  Drive carefully and be watchful as there are sharp turns.  Wildlife–and the few human inhabitants of that desolate region–may be seen on the road, as well.

We encountered a very friendly couple biking with their three dogs.  They encouraged us to check out the border though we thought they were “pulling the tourists’ leg” when they described what we’d find…they weren’t. 

You will know you’ve reached the border when…the road ends…at a gate that looks like something that will close a city park for the winter! 😮  There is also a SMALL sign that reads “no admittance to Canada” and a trench about two feet wide and a foot deep–that you can walk across–that spans the border as far as the eye can see in both directions.  You see a clear line cut through the forest that stretches for miles and continues up the mountains to the east and to the west.

There is also an obelisk that marks both countries and commemorates one of the longest international borders that has been held peacefully, for one of the longest time spans in history.  There is no fence (don’t tell Trump! 😮), though there are security cameras.  We also saw border agents patrolling the area, so I would strongly encourage you to be respectful of the laws of both countries.  Pictures are allowed, but even if you have a passport, this is not an open border crossing.

*I had a bit of a philosophical epiphany while observing the border.  Humans are not allowed to cross freely, but as there is no fence, the animals cross back and forth completely unhindered.  The same forests and mountains reside on both sides of the border and were it not artificially maintained by human hands, one would not know when it had been crossed.  It gives you pause regarding man’s futile attempts to divide humanity based on imaginary lines.  If the animals and trees don’t care which side of a line drawn on a map that they (and their fellow forest inhabitants) reside…should we?

A simple, metal gate over a dirt lane in front of an old barn and trees
The Canadian Border…seriously, that was it.
A wide path through the woods runs to tall mountains on the horizon
The Canadian Border

The pillar shown below marks both countries:

Metal pillar with "United States" written on it Metal pillar with "United States" written on it

Goat Lick Overlook

This is a very neat area located directly off of US 2, on the southern edge of the park, about halfway between West Glacier and East Glacier (this is one of those areas of lousy signage I mentioned in a previous post).  There is a large sign announcing the overlook from the west, and nothing from the east, so be watchful if coming from that direction. 

The Overlook is exactly as the name suggests–it is a canyon where the wild, mountain goats come to lick minerals that seep from the rocks.  We saw a herd of close to 20 goats, complete with adults and babies, scampering with carefree vigor–you could hear them calling to each other from quite a distance. 

Most of the goats stayed on the other side of the canyon, but one mother and baby were camped out very near our location.  These animals are usually fairly harmless, but please, always remember they are wild.  They should be treated with respect and given space.  If they act in any way uncomfortable by your presence, you are too close!  MOVE BACK!  It should always be assumed that any animal (especially a parent protecting a baby) may attack with force, at any time, if they feel threatened.

Related posts: Swiftcurrent Trail at Glacier National Park and 5 Other “Don’t Miss” Sites!; Gunsight Pass Trail, Glacier National Park; Glacier National Park: Hiking the Apgar Lookout Trail

Sunset on Lake McDonald

Our hotel was only a five-minute drive outside the border of the park and only about 10 minutes from the largest lake at Glacier National Park, Lake McDonald.  Every night we enjoyed the sunset on the shores of the lake, in the tiny community of Apgar.

The view faces northeast so you won’t see the actual sun drop below the western mountains.  However, you will see the play of shadows and alpenglow on the mountains to the east and can see their reflection in the lake water (if it’s calm.)  One night we were lucky enough to be able to watch lightning from far-off storms, in the clouds towering over the mountains, in addition to the beautiful sunset.  In addition to the picturesque sunsets, I highly recommend stopping for ice cream at one of Apgar’s several shops before heading to the lake!

Another important note, none of the lodges or motels inside the park or near its entrances have TVs.  This is done intentionally to help preserve the surroundings in a rustic manner.  It was a bit like taking a step back in time and we found it incredibly enjoyable!  People left their rooms at night and gathered in parks and along the lakeside; eating ice cream, skipping rocks, and conversing with each other.  There isn’t much cell service in this area either, so you’re forced to disconnect a bit and commune with nature (or *gasp!*, actually talk to the person next to you! 😮😉)  It catered to a relaxed, communal atmosphere.

Every night a family of ducks would swim by.  They were unique in that they would dive under the water, and remain submerged for tens of seconds, before popping back to the surface quite a distance from where they went under.  The ducklings were especially entertaining to watch.  They would build up speed by quickly skimming the water with their wings–almost to the point of taking flight–before diving below the surface. 

Sunset photo of a flat-water lake with the dark silhouettes of the surrounding mountains and sunset colors in the clouds reflecting in the water
Sunset on Lake McDonald

Aqua-colored Water

The waters in the park (the rivers and lakes) are crystal clear (and COLD!) and tinged with an aqua hue.  This comes from the glaciers that feed them.  I’ve seen pictures of this phenomenon before but had never seen it in person.  It’s one of the most beautiful, difficult-to-describe colors I have ever seen!  One wonders if the glaciers melt, how it will affect this unique quality of the park?

Panoramic view of a flat-water lake reflecting the tree-covered and rocky mountains surrounding it, all under a clear, blue sky.

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Glacier National Park truly offers some of the most incredible scenery I have ever seen.  I strongly encourage you to put it on your bucket list.

If you have been to Glacier, what were your favorite parts?  Let me know in the comments!

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4 pictures: 1) Mountain vista of towering tree-covered, rocky and snow-speckled mountains; 2) An old storefront with "Polebridge Mercantile" on the front and cars sitting out front; 3) Sunset picture of a low river with a sand bar; 4) A wide path through the woods runs to tall mountains on the horizon. Pin reads, "Glacier National Park, 5 Things Not To Miss"

 

 

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Rest Areas: a Road Trip Necessity

I’ve been on a lot of road trips, in several countries. So, I’ve stopped at A LOT of rest stops. They’re a necessary evil when traveling long distances by car. In this post, I review some of the most memorable ones I’ve visited.

 

Many people (myself included) enjoy long road trips.  Those inevitably involve stopping at rest stops in all corners of the country.  Since the Trekkers enjoy these types of adventures so much, we’ve experienced our fair share of rest areas, as well.  I thought it’d be fun to look back on some of the more interesting experiences I’ve had at these little detours, in various parts of the US, and the world.  

I’ve experienced rest stops in almost every state in the country (as well as a few in Canada and South America) so I’ve seen a wide range of them.  Below are some of the more notable ones:

Not-so-nice Rest Areas

Most of the rest stops in many states (such as Wyoming, Montana, many in the Northeast and those along the Eastern Seaboard) kinda suck, unless you’re lucky enough to stumble on a newer Welcome Center.  Most are pretty old-school, they look like they date back to the 1980s.  Many have a few toilets and a sketchy-looking drinking fountain, and that’s about it.  Sometimes you’ll be lucky enough to find one with a 1980’s-era vending machine as well!

Which reminds me…does anyone else remember when you could get a 20 oz soda out of a vending machine for $1?!  Or is that just me? Am I dating myself? 😛  Anyway, I digress…

Mule-Creek Junction near Lusk, Wyoming

One of the most unique rest area experiences I’ve had was near a tiny little town called Lusk, Wyoming.  About 50 miles north of town there is a place called “Mule Creek Junction”.  Here…there isn’t much.  US 18 and US 85 meet at a T-intersection…and that’s about it.  That and the rest stop are the only things of note for miles around (the local cattle notwithstanding). 😛

To set the scene, this facility sits in the middle of the least populated county, in the least populated state, in the continental United States.  It’s a BEAUTIFUL area, but there ain’t much there folks! (Though it is a prime place for storm chasing. 😇) 

Needless to say, this is one of the few toilets in the vicinity, so by the time you get there, it is sometimes urgently needed. 😋  You can imagine my dismay when I had a compelling need for the services this locale offers on a trip to Colorado, and upon entering the building I noticed a sign that clearly stated, “water is for drinking and bathing”…I thought, “uh oh!”  Welcome to the world of “composting toilets” kids! 😝😳🙄 

Sign that reads, "Conserve water. Water for drinking and washing hands only. Please do not waste."

To be fair, they really aren’t that bad.  The building at the rest stop looks just like any of the others in the state (many of these do have real toilets).  The toilets themselves even look fairly normal, except you don’t flush, the contents of the bowl just go into a pit-like hole–it is FAR more pleasant than a pit toilet, though.  The smell is usually fine too, except on really hot days when you may catch a whiff of “something” in the air. 

This part of Wyoming is pretty arid, so I applaud the creators of this site for “going green” and using resources wisely…but yeah, now that we know what we’re getting into, we try to hold out for the “real” toilets, at the rest stop in Lusk, that’s about 50 miles down the road. 😛

Closed Rest Stops

Then there was the time we were driving up I-85 in Virginia, heading north from the southern state line.  We used to live in Raleigh, North Carolina, so when we’d trek northward to visit Mr. Trekker’s family in the Northeast, this was always a good time to stop for a break. 

One year, there were some budgetary issues occurring with that fair state, and due to this, almost EVERY SINGLE rest stop on that route was CLOSED…and they didn’t bother to post any sort of warning about this, I might add.  Yeah, there were some very “un-tranquil” words coming out of my mouth that day! 😛 (I am not responsible for what I say when I’m stuck in a car with a full bladder. 😋)

Nice Rest Stops

Turnpike Rest Areas

In contrast, some of the nicest stops I’ve seen are on the Indiana and Ohio Turnpikes (otherwise known as the 80/90 Toll Road. )  To be clear, you have to go to the new ones, on the eastern side of Indiana and throughout Ohio.  The old ones, on the western side of Indiana, belong in the category above. 😛 

The new ones are lovely though!  Bright, large, and clean they offer a variety of shops and services, including super easy access to gas. (Of course, this requires you to pay both the tolls to use the road, as well as the higher gas prices that are inevitably found at the toll plazas.  So “pick your poison” I suppose. 😛)

Skyway Rest Area

In Illinois, there are some cool, “Skyway” rest areas.  Whoever invented these was brilliant.  These are nice places that offer a variety of shops and food services that span the highway like a bridge.  This allows people traveling both directions to use the same facilities, and they use space efficiently–absolutely genius! Just be aware, you can get a little dizzy watching the traffic speed along on the highway below you…🤢

Salt-Kettle Rest Area

This rest stop is also in Illinois. It is a Welcome Center and is found on I-74 westbound as you first come into Illinois from Indiana.  It is probably one of the nicest rest areas we’ve ever been to!  There isn’t anything overly exciting about the building per se, but the outside attractions are WONDERFUL!

The green space is large, shaded, and includes picnic tables, a playground, a pond (complete with a fountain) and even a short hiking trail to a historical cemetery! There were even people fishing as we walked around the pond (can’t say I’ve ever seen this at a rest stop before!)

Squatters!

By far, the most unique rest stop I have ever experienced was a “squatter” in South America.  This should go under the “not-so-nice” heading, but it was such a memorable experience, it deserves its own category! 😋

Shortly after graduating from high school, in 2001, I and other members of my church’s youth group went on a mission trip to Peru.  We were traveling from the bustling, capital city of Lima, to a tiny town in the INCREDIBLY beautiful Andes Mountains (this was the first time I ever experienced “big” mountains folks, and I caught the bug!) 

We were quickly ascending to very high elevations, and altitude sickness was a real concern (especially for a group of American flatlanders from Indiana!)  So, our guides had us guzzling a special herbal tea in attempts to prevent the condition.

I have since learned this was likely Coca Tea, used from the same leaf they use to make cocaine…note, the leaves are prepared differently and none of us “got high”, but oh, if only our leaders–or parents–had known! 😂🙃

The good news, the tea worked for most of us.  The bad news…drinking large amounts of liquids leads to other “needs”.  So, we stopped at a nearby “rest area”.  I walked into the little shanty and couldn’t help thinking, “Toto, we aren’t in Kansas anymore!” 😮

A “squatter” is exactly what it sounds like.  It’s a tiny hut or shed, that hangs over the edge of a hill, or cliff.  There’s a hole cut in the floor that your “product” falls through onto the dirt and rocks below.  If you’re a woman or are otherwise unable to pee standing up, you “squat”, and balance over the hole. 

Other than my lack of coordination that hinders my every step 😋, that part wasn’t so bad.  The pièce de résistance of the whole shebang was that–in order to balance yourself–you have to brace against the shed walls. 

I don’t know what was on them, it was too dark to see…moss or algae perhaps?  Sure, let’s go with that! 

All I know was, whatever I was touching was SLIMY! 🤢  Needless to say, the next time we stopped, we were all happy to use the outdoor toilet that basically involved us just openly peeing off the side of a cliff. 😆

I experienced my first mountain, shelf road on that trip, as well.  Have you ever seen any of these “dangerous roads” documentaries?  It was something like that.  We were riding in a bus with LARGE windows which allowed us to fully enjoy all the beautiful scenery…including the 1000+ foot drop–and no guardrail!–that began mere inches from the tires on the bus we were riding.  Why do I ALWAYS end up in the window seat in these situations?! 😛

Roadside Tables

One rest stop activity the Trekker’s have come to enjoy is picnic lunches.  We’ve found it’s quite relaxing to pull out some lunchmeat at the many facilities rest areas often provide.  One site you regularly see in the Great Plains is “roadside tables”.  They’re exactly what they sound like, they’re picnic tables that sit along the road. 😁

I wouldn’t stop at all of them.  Some sit on unshaded blacktop and look like they would be a prime spot to melt. 😅  Others aren’t always well maintained so I’d be worried you may have some unwanted guests joining you for lunch.  I don’t need a mouse, or a SNAKE!, slithering out of the knee-high grass and onto my feet while I’m trying to eat, thank you! 😛 

But most of them are quite nice.  The facilities are often shaded and many offer scenic views of the surrounding countryside (or at least the nearby cows). 😉  This is a good way to get a break from the car, get some fresh air, and let the kids (both two and four-legged) run around a little bit. (For more tips are traveling with your furry friends, click here!) 

We’ve found this method is way more enjoyable and less chaotic than trying to find lunch somewhere, and it’s likely cheaper, quicker, and often healthier, as well.  It doesn’t hurt that we often travel in very rural areas where the nearest lunch opportunity could be an hour or more away.  These aren’t nearly as convenient in January, however…😱

Some rest areas are pretty unique! 

There is a rest stop on I-10, in Mississippi, which doubles as the Mississippi Welcome Center.  It is also at the same location as the INFINITY Space Center.  This site felt like a unique combination of the “Old South” (imagine large houses with Grecian-style columns on the front porch and moss growing on nearby trees) and the future–there’s a park, next door, with a model of the Lunar Module. 

This site will always hold a special place in my heart.  It could be because we were suffering from sleep deprivation at the time, 😴 but I think it’s more that it was very charming.  It also represented a huge milestone for the Trekkers.  This was the place where we could officially confirm we had both been to all of the “Lower 48” US states! 😀 

A "Welcome to Mississippi" road sign is lit up in the dark


There’s also a cool rest area on I-90 in Chamberlain, South Dakota.  We pull off here a lot.  A large sculpture called “Dignity” was erected here a few years ago and is quite lovely.  It is a statue of an American Indian woman and is meant to honor the culture of the people who first came to this land.  This site also offers a Lewis and Clark interpretive exhibit that is open during the summer months.  There are also walking trails, one of which allows you fantastic views of the nearby Missouri River. 

This area is so unique.  If you’re coming from the east, you meander through the farm fields of eastern South Dakota.  Then, suddenly, the yawning chasm of the Missouri River opens up before you as the bluffs that characterize western South Dakota beckon you onward (that’s the Trekkers’ home baby!)

Picture of a large river with grass-covered bluffs in the background. Green trees and grass are in the foreground.
One of my favorite views of the Missouri as you head into “West River” (western South Dakota)
Large statue of an American Indian woman
Dignity


One rest stop we both enjoy in Wyoming is on the outskirts of Greybull.  It also features a small, airplane museum.  The tiny museum never seems to be open 😛 but you can view most of the planes through the fence that surrounds it.  

Love them or hate them, rest stops are a necessary evil on long road trips.  They can often be a blessed appearance if only to escape the chaos you’re currently experiencing in the car for a few minutes!  So go enjoy the open road, you never know, that side excursion may offer some interesting stories to bring home all on its own!

What unique rest stops have you visited?  Let me know in the comments!

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Large tree covered in moss next to vending machines. Pin reads, "Rest Areas: A Road Trip Necessity"

 

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Opening Weekend on Beartooth Pass

In this post, I review a Memorial Day road trip on Opening Weekend of the Beartooth Highway in Montana.

 

One item you should definitely have on your Road Trip Bucket List is to drive the Beartooth Highway on Opening Weekend.  This route connects Red Lodge, Montana, on the north side; Yellowstone National Park, to the west;  and Cody, Wyoming, to the south.  The route usually opens by the Saturday of Memorial Day Weekend, though this is always weather-dependent.  Also, temporary closures may occur after the opening date, also due to weather.

Click here to watch videos of snowplows clearing the route on YouTube (be warned, they are addictive! 😉)  The Montana DOT often has to clear snowdrifts that are over 20 feet deep in some areas! 

Washoe Ghost Town near Red Lodge, Montana

You can travel the road from either direction.  We started in Red Lodge, Montana.  We noted on the map that there was a ghost town not far from our hotel.  The Washoe Ghost Town and mine site is located on Route 308, between Red Lodge and the tiny town of Bearcreek, on the way to Belfry.  The actual site is situated on private land, so you can’t tour it, but it is easily visible from the side of the road. 

This location’s (unfortunate) claim to fame is that it was the site of the worst mining disaster in Montana history in the 1940s. 😐

Scrubbrush prairie dotted with dilapidated buildings
Washoe Ghost Town

Lodging along the Beartooth Highway

We’ve been learning the joy of simple motels on recent trips.  Air B&B’s have become our “lodging of choice”, though we’ve been finding, if we MUST stay in a hotel, the simpler, local options appeal to us the most. 

They have to be clean, and well-maintained, of course, but they often have so much more character than the stale, chain hotels people usually think of.  We also, frequently, stay in smaller towns, where the larger chains don’t often have a large presence.  So, being willing to expand our horizons a bit makes lodging much easier to locate.

We had incredible luck with finding places to stay on this trip.  In Red Lodge, we chose the Red Lodge Inn, which was absolutely ADORABLE. 

It was a simple motel, but it appeared that the rooms had been refurbished recently, and they were quite nice.  We were also impressed by how large they were!  The motel is owned by a young family, and the hosts were incredibly friendly and helpful when we needed information regarding local attractions.

In Cody, Wyoming, we stayed at the Cody Cowboy Village, and it was equally as cute.  This one had more of a “Western” theme, while the room in Red Lodge felt more like a mountain cabin, but both were equally enjoyable. 

At the motel in Cody, large wooden beams made up the small cabins and reminded me of the ADORABLE Grandma’s Cabin that we stayed in, with Mr. Trekker’s family, in Island Park, Idaho, during our Yellowstone trip in 2014!

Places to eat along the Beartooth Highway

We’re also learning that simplicity is our friend when it comes to finding meals out on the road.  We love little cafes and diners, and again, when you stay in small towns, it’s good to enjoy these. 😁 

When in Red Lodge we had dinner at one of our favorite places, Red Lodge Pizza.  The restaurant is housed in the old post office and features creations along that theme such as, the Cliff Claven!  We’ve never had a bad meal there! 

In Cody, we ate breakfast at Our Place, a charming little dive (to be clear, I use that term affectionately) just across the street from our hotel. 

Some of the best meals I’ve eaten at a restaurant were cooked in “dives”.  These places are usually locally-owned by regular, small-town folks.  The owners are often a joy to talk with, and any time the place is crowded with locals, you know you’re in for a treat!

We enjoyed dinner at the Occidental Saloon in Buffalo, Wyoming the final night.  We’ve visited there before and have always been happy with the meals.  This site is attached to a historic hotel in town, where the likes of Teddy Roosevelt, Butch Cassidy, and Calamity Jane once rested their weary feet.  As usual, we ate the final meal of our trip, breakfast on Memorial Day morning, at the Busy Bee Cafe, also in Buffalo.  I’ve waxed lyrical about how much we like this cute little restaurant before.

The drive on Beartooth Pass!

Although weather forecasts made it appear doubtful, we did get to drive the full extent of the road…on the Montana side.  We had to wait 1.5 hours for it to open up but got to enjoy views from one of the main lookout points while we waited.  When we heard whoops of delight from the skiers and snowboarders that were parked near us and saw the snowplows drive by, we knew we were headed to the summit!

Weather had been pretty wild in this part of the country that spring, and this area had received close to a foot of snow just a few days before the road opened. 

The Forest Service had gotten the Wyoming side of the route mostly open, save for the last few miles at the summit.  With the recent lousy weather though, this portion had drifted shut again. Fortunately, we have driven the entire route before (just not on Opening Weekend). 

The weather didn’t seem much different from when we were there in July of 2016, there was just–a little–less snow in the summer.  There were still plenty of gloomy gray clouds, and the temperature was, maybe, only 1o degrees warmer. 😛

We found it to be almost disorienting near the summit.  The way the white snowfields melded with the pale, gray sky, it was hard to tell where the land ended and the sky began!

To check current conditions on this incredible stretch of road, you can check out these sites:  Montana DOT; Beartooth Highway in Wyoming.

A view over a vista of snow-covered mountains and valleys under a cloudy sky

Because the road was closed, we had to embrace our motto from a previous road trip, and “Just Groove“, and boy, were we glad we did! 

The alternate route we chose was Route 72, south of Belfry, Montana, into Wyoming, and may I say it is absolutely GORGEOUS!  It offers incredible views of the Absaroka Mountains as you drive along their length.

Click here for a video I made of our drive. We definitely saw large piles of snow but didn’t quite get to experience the “snow tunnels” I was hoping for.  I guess we’ll just have to go back and do this route again on another Opening Weekend!

Cooke City, Montana

When we reached Route 296, in Wyoming, we took that road (the Chief Joseph Highway) back to US 212 (the Beartooth Highway) on the Wyoming side, as that portion was open.  This takes you all the way to Cooke City/Silver Gate back in Montana, and eventually on to Yellowstone National Park. 

These two, tiny towns had been on our “must visit” list since our Yellowstone Trip.  The towns were teensy but enjoyable.  They definitely felt like the type of places you’d visit in the high mountains.  For those who may be interested, I should note that there are several campgrounds in this vicinity.  HOWEVER, they only allow hard-sided campers (no tents) due to regular bear activity.  Just something to be aware of. 😳

Store sign on a building near an American flag reads, "Cook City General Store, Groceries, Gifts, Fishing, Camping, Fly Shop"

Storefront of an old, brick building on a city street, with some cars parked near it

View down the street of a small town with small shops and cars lining both sides, under a cloudy sky

Drive the Chief Joseph Highway in Wyoming

I can never get over how beautiful northeastern Wyoming is.  On our trip, everything was so uncharacteristically green!  This is an unusual sight for this normally dry area, but the early season and recent rain had the grass growing well! 

There were some gray clouds (though we enjoyed more sun than expected) and these, contrasted with the vibrant green of the new grass and the steely, dark gray mountains, with snow still capping their summits, made for quite the scenic view!  The somewhat dreary–yet picturesque–image made both of us think of Scotland (or what we imagine Scotland to look like, having never been there…YET!) 😮😉

View from above into a rocky canyon with pine trees and a river far at the bottom
There’s a story that goes with this picture. Mr. Trekker had to take it from the bridge because I was too chicken to stand near the edge!

See below for more pictures of our drive.  As you can see, there was still some snow on the upper peaks:

Brown grass and pine tree-spotted meadow leads to snow-covered mountains in the distance Brown grass and pine tree-spotted meadow leads to snow-covered mountains, with the sun shinning on parts of them, in the distance Brown grass and pine tree-spotted meadow leads to snow-covered mountains, with the sun shinning on parts of them, in the distance A paved road with rocks, grass and pine trees on both sides leads to snow-covered mountains in the distance View overlooking a vista of a flatter pine tree and rock-covered area leading to snow-covered mountains in the distance View over a mountain vista from above. Pine trees and snow cover the lower elevations, brown grass covers the higher elevations that leads to tree and snow covered mountains in the distance.

Buffalo Bill Center of the West in Cody, Wyoming

We eventually made our way back down the Beartooth Highway and stayed in Cody, Wyoming Saturday night.  We’ve stayed there several times as a stopover, and each time we thought we should take the time to visit the Buffalo Bill Center of the West (but never got the chance).  Since this was a weekend of “checking things off the list”, we decided now was as good a time as any!

The museum is actually made up of five different areas.  We both enjoyed the Natural History portion the most.  This section comprises multiple levels, as though you were traversing down a mountain, from the tundra ecosystem near the summit to the prairie/grassland found far below. 

We also enjoyed the firearms museum, that showcased items from around the globe and from a wide range of battles throughout history.  There was also a section regarding the life of Buffalo Bill Cody and his Wild West Show that was quite interesting.

Ten Sleep Canyon, Bighorn Mountains

We took one of our favorite routes home through the Big Horns, US 16 through Ten Sleep Canyon, in Wyoming.  This is, absolutely, one of the most beautiful canyons I have ever seen!

They call this the most scenic route through the Big Horns and I believe it!  Route 14 and 14a are pretty in their own right (and you’re much more likely to see moose on one of these roads) but the southern route through the canyon is one that shouldn’t be missed! 

As you’re driving into the canyon from the west, you have the Absaroka Range in your rearview mirror while the Big Horns loom ever larger in front of you.  This area is quite dry and barren, as it’s in the rain shadow of the Absarokas, adding to its rugged beauty.

I know I’ve mentioned it before, but I can’t get enough of the ruggedness that makes up the Wyoming countryside.  The drab yellow of the badlands that contrasts–this time of year–against the almost florescent, green grass of Spring in the foreground, and the imposing, dark mountains in the background (with their bright white caps).  This area is pretty all the time, but especially so this time of year before the hot summer conditions have baked it dry.

This route is also called the Cloud Peak Skyway Scenic Byway, as it is the main road that runs nearest to Cloud Peak, the tallest summit in the Big Horns (though you can’t actually see the summit from the road as it’s in the middle of a Wilderness Area). 

Click here for a video I made of a Labor Day Weekend drive through the canyon.

View up a brown rock canyon dotted with trees, all under a clear, blue sky View across a blue lake that is surrounded with pine trees with rocky mountains in the background, all under a clear, blue sky

This route is also a beautiful drive down the east side of the Big Horns into Buffalo, WY.  If you’re there at the right time, you may see yaks grazing on the steep hillside near the side of the road! 😮

I recommend everyone check out these drives if they have a chance, as they are all quite beautiful.  There are LOTS of tiny lakes that make for great pictures (not to mention plenty of marmots posing for photos in the higher elevations!)  Be prepared though, winter conditions can occur at any time in that area (we had thunder and slushy snow falling on us in July!) 😮 

Go tour these highways, you’ll be glad you did! 

Longmire Store, Buffalo, Wyoming

Finally, we were able to cap off our weekend in the best way!  Each time we visit Buffalo, I have hoped to stop at the Longmire store, named after the well-known book and Netflix series.  As we learned, it used to ONLY be open during Longmire Days each year in July, as it was just a satellite store.  Well, it is now open all season and we FINALLY got to partake of its wares!  See, persistence pays off. 😁

Have you visited the Beartooth Highway on Opening Weekend?  Tell me about it in the comments! 

 

Did you enjoy this post?  Pin it!

3 pictures: 1) View from above into a rocky canyon with pine trees and a river far at the bottom; 2) View overlooking a vista of a flatter pine tree and rock-covered area leading to snow-covered mountains in the distance; 3) A view over a vista of snow-covered mountains under a cloudy sky. Pin reads, "Opening Weekend on Beartooth Pass"

 

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