In this post, I review this great, fairly easy trail that’s found not far from Rapid City.
Little Elk Creek Trail is another great, local trail that is near Rapid City.
Where is the Little Elk Creek Trail?
You can reach the trailhead from Exit 44, off of I-90, for Deerview Road. Take this road to where it crosses Sturgis Road (which runs parallel to I-90 in this area) and then head north on Sturgis Road. After about 1/2 mile take a left at Little Elk Creek Road. You will find a parking lot at the trailhead, where the road ends.
What you will see on the Little Elk Creek Trail
The trail is around five miles long, one-way, though we’ve never actually hiked the whole thing. If you follow it far enough, it eventually joins up with a Forest Service road that will take you to Dalton Lake.
At one point, the trail splits into two routes. They both go to the same place, and after about a mile they end up joining back together again. One of the trails stays “low”, and I think it is actually a bit more challenging, as it runs right along the creek bed. With this option, you will need to scramble over a few boulders along the way, and it can be made more difficult if the creek level is high, or if conditions are icy.
There are also a few scrambles up a short, steep hill or two if you choose the “high” route. However, to me, the most challenging part of this option is that it runs right along a ridge. The drop-off isn’t quite steep, or high, enough to consider it as being a “shelf”, but it has gotten my acrophobic heart pumping a time or two. (This is especially true when you’re walking with a rambunctious pup who is not apprehensive about heights in the least. 😝)
This route is pretty any time of the year, but especially in the fall, which is when we usually go. The aspen trees that edge the trail turn a vibrant orangish-gold, and contrast well with the ever-green pines that make up much of the rest of the surrounding forest. As it is much closer to Rapid City, this is one of the better places to see leaf colors without having to drive all the way to Spearfish Canyon or deal with the fall traffic that is common there.
During the summer this area can get pretty crowded. It runs right along the creek, which can be accessed many places throughout the route. It is also fairly shaded, so it makes for a cooler option when the weather is warm. During the winter months, this canyon doesn’t receive much sunlight, so be prepared for icy conditions (especially in the areas where the creek runs very near the trail). Yaktrax are highly recommended when attempting this trek during that time of year.
If you’re looking for a good, family hike, that’s easy to reach and close to Rapid City, check out Little Elk Creek Trail, near Piedmont!
Have you hiked the Little Elk Creek Trail? Tell me about your experience in the comments!
If you’d like to read about the other trails in this series, you can click the links below:
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In this post, I discuss the Flume Loop Trail, found in the central Black Hills.
The Flume Loop Trail is another in my series of trails that are found close to Rapid City.
Where is the Flume Loop Trail?
This trail is found off Boulder Hill Road west of Rapid City. You can reach that road from both US 16 (a little way south of the Rockerville area) as well as off of Sheridan Lake Road. Either direction works, though the Sheridan Lake Road entrance is closer to the trailhead.
This is a dirt road, though it is usually in very good condition and can be managed by any 2WD car. (The exceptions to this would be in snow, or occasionally, due to heavy rain.) The parking lot where the trailhead is found is the same one you use for the Boulder Hill Trail.
What is a flume?
A flume is a chute, generally built out of wood, used to transport materials (such as logs or gold) using water. This trail in the Black Hills travels along a former flume route from more than 100 years ago, during the gold rush. Today, it is mostly comprised of a wide, grassy, leveled grade along the hillside, where the original structure once stood. In a few areas, the rotting ruins of the original flume can still be spotted. (On other portions of the trail, you can actually travel through old tunnels in the rock that were created for use by the flume.)
The picture at the top of the post is an example of what a flume would have looked like, NOT specifically of the one in the Black Hills.
The entire flume trail runs for more than 15 miles throughout the Black Hills from Rockerville, south of Rapid City, to Sheridan Lake, west of town. Near Boulder Hill, the path forms a loop, and it connects to other portions of the trail.
What is the flume loop trail like?
This is a great trek! It can be completed in either direction, though we usually travel it counterclockwise. (My following description of it will follow that route.)
The Flume Loop Trail starts by traversing some lower-lying meadows through the oak and cottonwood trees that grow along the nearby creek . Watch out for cows in this area during the summer months (or more importantly, what they leave behind. 🤥 This is national forestland, and open grazing is allowed here.) Also, during hunting season, I strongly encourage people to wear bright colors when enjoying this area as you’ll be sharing it with hunters.
As you continue down the trail you’ll pass a small, dank-smelling pond that is often covered in green scum during the warmer months. 😝 There are some logs you can use to cross the small stream that feeds from it. Be aware, this area can get VERY mucky in wet times of the year.
After crossing Boulder Hill Road, you then make a short climb up a nearby hillside. You are now on the flume bed itself. From here on out, the trail is fairly level, with a few short climbs and descents, and the occasional clamber up some boulders. The remainder of the trail traverses the pine forest that is more common in the Black Hills.
Sometimes, as you leave the brighter, open spaces behind, walking into these darker, pine tunnels, can seem almost spooky. Not to worry though, the scariest sites we’ve seen here are the local mule deer and rabbits who frequent the area.
This trail is nice because much of it is shaded and in the trees, regardless of the time of day you visit. We have often used it for a quick, evening escape after work, or when it’s too hot to attempt more difficult, or more exposed routes. The early portion of the trek is great in the fall, as this is a more leaf-prone part of the forest. The dusty smells of dried leaves underfoot, mixed with the sounds from the ones still clinging to the trees, that rattle in the wind, with the gurgle of the small creek nearby, make for quite the bucolic, autumn setting.
Is the Flume Loop Trail hard?
I would rate this trail as “easy” as it encompasses very little elevation gain. It can be completed in 1 – 2 hours, depending on your speed and ability level, how many stops you make, etc. It is appropriate for children of almost any age, and dogs.
Our previous dog enjoyed it, arthritis, bad hips, and all, well into the final year of her long life. Puppers has put her stamp of approval on it as well.
So the next time you’re looking for a family-friendly trail near Rapid City, consider the Flume Loop Trail!
Have you hiked the Flume Trail? What did you think? Tell me about it in the comments!
If you’d like to read about the other trails in this series, you can click the links below:
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In this post, I review a great, moderate trail found off the Wildlife Loop Road in Custer State Park.
The Prairie Trail, in Custer State Park, is one the Trekkers really enjoy and have hiked on multiple occasions! It is a loop trail that is around three miles in total length.
This trek traverses multiple ecosystems throughout its duration. From cottonwoods and oaks that line the lower creek beds, to the higher, pine-forested hillsides and rolling prairies, this trail has it all! It’s crazy how you can experience multiple habitats in just a matter of minutes by ascending or descending just a few hundred feet.
Where is the Prairie Trail?
The trailhead is located on the south side of the Wildlife Loop Road, around six miles from the Blue Bell Campground, or 13 miles from the State Game Lodge, in Custer State Park. It consists of rolling hills, bits of pine forest, and grassland areas. The hike can get pretty steep in a few spots, while you climb or descend the next hill. Fortunately, none of these rises is overly lengthy.
What animals you will see on the Prairie Trail
You’ll see all sorts of critters on this trail, namely prairie dogs, turkeys, and buffalo.
This path actually has some of the busiest and most regular buffalo activity we’ve experienced in the Black Hills. They seem to enjoy lounging along the trail itself, so you should always be ready to turn around or alter your course if you come near them. We have hiked here on several different occasions, and rarely haven’t had to skirt a herd of bison. Dogs are allowed (and both dogs we’ve taken on it thoroughly enjoyed themselves). I would STRONGLY encourage you though, unless you have your pup under ABSOLUTE voice control, to keep them on a leash so they can’t antagonize the buffalo.
A few water crossings may be required depending on the level of the creek, and recent snowmelt or rainfall. Depending on its height, you may be able to cross it by jumping rocks or using the well-placed logs. There can also be times, during dryer spells, when the creek will almost run dry.
Hikers should also be watchful for rattlesnakes along the route. They are especially active during the summer months and tend to frequent the tall grass that flanks both sides of the trail.
What sites you will see on the Prairie Trail
Great views of the surrounding prairie and park are available from the tops of the hills. You may even be able to see the Badlands, far to the east, on a clear day.
Much of the trail crosses the open prairie, so be prepared for lack of shade when it’s warm out. This is supposed to be a prime area for spotting wildflowers in the summer (though I can’t speak to this personally. As the park tends to be pretty busy that time of year, we often avoid it, so we’ve never actually tried this trail during the summer).
We can complete the entire loop in about an hour, though this will vary on your speed, ability level, and if you choose to take any breaks or not (or if you’re required to take a detour around a buffalo herd). There are plenty of scenic spots that would be good for a picnic lunch, or just to view the surroundings and critters found nearby.
If you’re looking for a fun trail to hike in Custer State Park, that the whole family can enjoy, check out the Prairie Trail! In a short amount of time and space, you can experience much of the flora and fauna that is offered throughout the park!
Have you encountered buffalo on the Prairie Trail? Tell me about your experience in the comments!
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In this post, I discuss the Colorado side of Dinosaur National Monument.
In this post, I reviewed the Trekkers’ visit to the Utah side of Dinosaur National Monument. In this post, I’ll be discussing the Colorado side (as the park spans both states).
Scenic Drives on the Colorado Side of Dinosaur National Monument
One of the main things we enjoyed on the Colorado side of the monument was the scenic drives. There are several found throughout this portion of the park, though all but Harper’s Corner Road are suggested for high-clearance vehicles only.
As I mentioned in Part 1, under good conditions most of these roads are great to drive (honestly several of them were less bumpy than some of the paved, county roads we drove on). I would have felt comfortable taking any vehicle with a higher wheelbase on these (such as an Outback), and we saw several SUVs.
I cannot stress enough though, that we were there in the most ideal weather possible. According to the park, several of the roads are completely impassable when wet. This seemed likely as we crossed many dry stream beds that could easily fill with stormwater runoff. It also makes sense that the powdery dirt that covers the surface of many of these routes could quickly turn into slippery ooze when wet. Many of the roads also only have one way in or out, so, if you reach the end, and then a rainstorm comes…you may not be able to get back out again. Several also lead through low-lying canyons which are likely to flood quickly in a heavy rain event. So please, be wary before attempting these roads if any bad weather conditions are present or expected.
Click here for the NPS website for the park which will have up-to-date info on current road conditions.
Harper’s Corner Road
This is the main road through the Colorado section of Dinosaur National Monument. You access it near Dinosaur, Colorado. This is also one of the only paved roads in the park. At the end of it is the Harper’s Corner Trail which offers INCREDIBLE views.
Hiking on Harper’s Corner Trail
This trail is beautiful! At times you are hiking on an almost knife-edge of rock, with the Green River winding along beside you on one side, and the Yampa River on the other. Did I mention you are up to 2500 feet ABOVE these waterways throughout the hike? 😮 It got my acrophobic-heart pumping a bit! (It really wasn’t too bad. I only felt nervous in one spot where you get a healthy view of a chute, down a cliffside. 😋)
I would rate this trail as “easy”. It’s about three miles in total length (out and back) and it doesn’t have much elevation gain. Just about anyone wearing tennis shoes should be able to handle it (though I should note the park is at an altitude of over 5000 feet, so “flatlanders” may want to take it slow. 😉) At the end of the trek you are treated to an AMAZING view down the canyon, and of Steamboat Rock from above, behind which the Yampa and Green Rivers meet.
Echo Park Road
This route takes you from Harper’s Corner Road, east, to Echo Park and its campground. This area is called a “park”, like several other locations in Colorado. It is really just a flat, meadow-like area. It was cool! (Hint, it’s called “Echo Park” for a reason, I encourage you to experiment with this 😁.)
This route traverses the lower “benches” of land that can be seen from above when traversing the Harper’s Corner trail. They are called this as they are wide sections of terrain. They literally look like benches, or steps, that rim the lower, river canyons.
The road winds through an incredible canyon where sheer rock towers over you on both sides. From here you can see Steamboat Rock from the bottom, where it’s much more impressive.
There is a short hike along the river’s edge that is around two miles long (out-and-back). It takes you to the confluence of the Yampa and Green Rivers. There is also a place on this road called Whispering Cave. It appeared fairly unassuming, at first, as it’s just a vertical slit in the rock wall of the canyon, that you can stand in. This was until we figured out its secret (and how it got its name). If people stand at either end of this long slit and whisper REALLY quietly…you can hear each other VERY well (thanks to the unique acoustics of the rock structure). And it’s far more effective than if you try the same thing outside (we checked! 😉)
This route takes you from Echo Park Road, east, all the way to US 40 in Elk Springs (though there are a few places you can bug out before you get that far, dependent on road conditions). This was the most difficult route we encountered. The drive was beautiful though, with yellow grassland and scrub brush spread before you, all the way to the rock walls that rise above you on two sides.
Even this road wasn’t bad at this time of year, though I could see it being difficult if it was wet. It was the steepest drive we took and it had the sharpest turns. This was also the longest route we attempted, by far. It was fun, but we covered less than half of it (around 20 miles) and that took almost two hours. This did appear to be the most difficult part of the trek. According to the map, the rest of it looked flatter and easier (and some parts may have been roughly paved). We did finally escape, through a blessed hole in the rock wall called Thanksgiving Gorge (I think I know why they give it that name!) just as daylight was waning. We were rewarded with a herd of elk…and LOTS of cows! 😋
Beautiful Canyons in the Colorado section of Dinosaur National Monument
Flaming Gorge Reservoir
On Sunday we took US 191 north of Vernal, Utah, to the Flaming Gorge Reservoir. It was named for its vibrant, red cliffs that were cut by the Green River. The gorge spans both northeastern Utah, and southeastern Wyoming, just to the north. It is absolutely beautiful, and the dam that created the reservoir is pretty stunning, as well.
Gates of Lodore
From the dam, we then continued north on Route 191, just across the Wyoming line, and picked up Brown’s Park Road. This we took east, back into Colorado. From here we followed signs to the Gates of Lodore, another INCREDIBLE canyon that was cut by the Green River. It sits on the northern tip of the monument. This route was a mixture of well-graded dirt and rough pavement, though any passenger car should be able to handle it, at least in good weather.
I was pronouncing this location like “Gates of Mordor”, from Lord of the Rings, but was quickly corrected by a local. Apparently, it’s supposed to sound more like “Gates of la-DOOR”. 😂
There’s an easy, and fairly short, hiking trail that leads to the mouth of the canyon, from the parking area. Due to its sheer, rock walls, there is no access through this rocky cleft, except by watercraft on the river itself.
Crouse Canyon/Brown’s Park Scenic Backway
We returned back to Vernal by way of the Crouse Canyon/Brown’s Park Scenic Backway. This is another route that cuts through a beautiful canyon, and then a meadowy area.
This road was one of the rougher routes we traveled on and was basically only one lane wide. This was unexpected as it was listed as a scenic drive in one of the local tour brochures, and wasn’t suggested to be high-clearance. Our truck handled it easily but had we known how rough it would be we would have aired the tires down, just for a smoother ride. In good conditions, any SUV with a higher wheelbase should be able to handle it (we passed a CRV or two) but I wouldn’t suggest attempting it in a typical passenger car (just because there were some rocks and ruts that had to be navigated). An Outback probably could have managed it, but we would have been extra cautious.
The drive was BEAUTIFUL though, with the yellow and orange leaf colors set against the red rock of the canyon walls, which contrasted with the blue of the sky above. Click here for a short video of it!
We returned home via US 40 east, through Craig, Steamboat Springs, and Rabbit Ears Pass. This is the one portion of northern Colorado we hadn’t been to yet.
From there we took Route 14 north to Walden, then headed north to Laramie, Wyoming, and back to the Black Hills. FYI, this is a great way to avoid the traffic in the Denver area, and much of I-25, if you’re heading north from northern Colorado! It offers some great views too!
You won’t find a better time to visit this park than Fall. Tree colors are bright, crowds are light and temperatures are cool. So the next time you’re looking for a good autumn vacation spot, think of the out-of-the-way Dinosaur National Monument!
Have you visited this incredible place? Tell me about your favorite parts of it in the comments!
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In this post, I give a review of the Utah side of Dinosaur National Monument.
To celebrate our 10-year anniversary, the Trekkers headed to Colorado! We started our trip in Boulder, as Mr. Trekker had some work-related meetings for a few days. Thanks to my flexible job I was able to work out on the balcony of our hotel room. 😋
We spent the remainder of our week at the Dinosaur National Monument, that spans the northern border between Utah and Colorado. This is a cool place that we hadn’t heard of until recently (you can learn more about it at the NPS website here.) It is in a very remote area. In fact, we think we may have finally found a place in Colorado where planes don’t constantly fly over!
Boulder, Colorado
Boulder is nice, for being a larger city. It reminds me A LOT of the place we used to live when we were in North Carolina. I don’t like all the bike lanes, especially when driving Mr. Trekker’s truck, these give me serious anxiety!
I felt like it was just an added stimulus I had to keep track of while trying to navigate the busy traffic and figure out where in the world I was going 😛. There were also A LOT of boulevards. While this is certainly aesthetically pleasing, I find it makes getting around town (or just simply turning around, or getting to a business that’s on the other side of the block) difficult.
I will say this, for a larger city and busier place, I have been pleased with how friendly people are here, especially when driving. I rarely ever get honked at and people are usually willing to let you into a lane quite regularly, even when traffic is heavy.
I hadn’t expected to miss seeing the mountains…being in a town that sits RIGHT NEXT TO the Rockies! 😛 Boulder might actually be closer to these peaks than we are to the Black Hills…and I can see those from our house! There were just so many taller buildings and trees that blocked the view. It seemed kind of sad to me, that people live in such a cool place and you don’t get to enjoy its natural beauty every day…
I can definitely understand why people live in Boulder. It’s very pretty and there’s a lot of culture, nice restaurants, etc. It seemed to cater more to those who ride bikes or walk, which is fine, I’m all about a green lifestyle that’s full of outdoor time and exercise.
It doesn’t help that Boulderites–whether on bikes or walking–don’t seem to understand the laws of physics. They barely watch for vehicles! Yes, I understand you may have the right of way in many situations. However, you should still navigate defensively. If someone in a half-ton vehicle hits you, your “Right Of Way” doesn’t offer any protection whatsoever! 🙄
Boulder seems to be in an odd transition phase. Some parts of it are “old school” and charming, with Victorian-style homes (such as the one used in the tv show, Mork and Mindy, seen here!) There is also A LOT of new construction occurring, of very modern, industrial-looking, apartment, condo, and office buildings. While this type of architecture is cool too, I’m not sure about the mix of the two, especially when they’re squished together like sardines. It kind of felt like a smorgasbord of building design, and I’m not sure how I felt about it…🤔
Parking was definitely a problem though. I’m not sure if this may be due to the fact that the area has grown so quickly? Unfortunately, there were multiple times when I couldn’t get to a business or park that I wanted to visit due to there being no parking available nearby.
As I said, if locals mostly walk or ride a bike, maybe this isn’t a big deal. It doesn’t make a visitor feel very welcome though. I find it INCREDIBLY frustrating when I want to go to a place and all I see are “no parking” signs. 😡Do people just “Uber” everywhere these days? Yeah, I’m a child of the 80s folks, this old dog likes her car and likes to drive herself, thanks! 😉😜
The only real complaint I had about the town (other than the traffic 😇) was when Target charged me 10¢ per plastic bag (and Safeway charged 20¢!) I understand that the overuse of plastic is a problem, but don’t just start charging me for bags without any warning. I don’t even mind using reusable bags that I bring from home, but I wasn’t at home, was I? It just felt, unwelcoming, frankly.
As an example of why, after paying, I realized one of my bags was a little heavy and I would have preferred to double-bag it. So then I was faced with a dilemma…do I “steal” an extra bag? Do I go through the hassle of trying to pay an additional 20¢ for ONE MORE BAG? Or do I just risk there being a hole in my single-layer bag and dumping my glass bottles all over the parking lot? *sigh*
I had an interesting encounter with a Tesla…we were in a tight parking lot and I was getting back in our truck. I was being VERY careful to not bump the fancy, shiny car next to me, when all of a sudden, the computer screen on its dash “woke up” and started scrolling something about “security” (there was no one in the car, mind you).
I’m assuming the machine was “sensing” my presence? It was a little creepy! I felt like I was dealing with Kitt from Knight Rider! 😜 (Yes, that was a 1980s TV reference, I just dated myself again didn’t I? 😋) I may not be cut out for this “brave new world” ya’ll! 😋
Things to do in Boulder, including the Mork and Mindy House!
For those who don’t know, Mork and Mindy was a comedy show starring Robin Willaims as an alien that was on in the late 70s (Note: BEFORE my time folks! 😝)
The show was based in Boulder and the house Mork lived in is still standing. It is located at 1619 Pine St. (I’m telling you this because the info is LITERALLY available on Google. 😇)
And, because we apparently can’t ever go to Colorado for our anniversary without it snowing, this is the–admittedly beautiful–sight we woke up to one morning… 😋 (it was 80 the day before mind you! 😮)…
Dinosaur National Monument
On our route west, toward the monument from Boulder, we drove on I-70 through Glenwood Canyon. That route through the Colorado Rockies has to be one of the prettiest sections of interstate I’ve ever been on. Click here for a video of our trip through the canyon…
As long as you aren’t intending to go on a rafting trip on the river, fall is known as one of the BEST times to visit this park. For one thing, it’s in the desert-scrubland that comprises northeast Utah/northwest Colorado, so it gets HOT in the summer (and you all know how much I “love” the heat 😜). Also, it’s far less busy this time of year and the tree colors are lovely. We, actually, intentionally held off visiting here, until we could go in the Fall.
We spent our first day on the west (or Utah) side of the monument. Here you will find the larger–and in my opinion better–Visitor’s Center. Also, if you’re there for dinosaur bones (and why else would you be visiting?! 😉) this is the side to start on!
The Quarry Exhibit Hall at Dinosaur National Monument
This place was COOL! Just an FYI, there’s only a few established places where you can actually see dino bones at Dinosaur National Monument. The town that holds the name “Dinosaur” is on the Colorado side of the park…but there aren’t many bones actually viewable there. 😋 You have to go to the main entrance, which is found in Jensen, Utah (just a little east of Dinosaur, on US 40). If you’re there when its busy, there’s a free shuttle that takes you to the quarry from the Visitor’s Center. If you’re there on slower days (which we were) you can drive yourself.
We stayed at a lovely Air B&B in Vernal, Utah, which is about a 30-minute drive west of Dinosaur, Colorado. This is the largest town in the local area and we were glad we chose it. It offers easy access to any of the attractions in or around the monument, and also provides the most options for food and lodging. If you’re wanting to camp, there are several campgrounds within the monument itself, and there is said to be a nice RV park in Dinosaur (though I don’t have any personal experience with that).
The Quarry is AMAZING! It’s an enclosed building that was constructed over the site of a former paleontological dig, that contains massive amounts of dinosaur bones. They were discovered in the early 1900’s. After much excavation it was finally decided to preserve the remaining bones as-is, and allow people to view them in their natural state. It’s thought that this was a place where large, flash floods occurred, helping to explain why so many bones ended up in such close proximity to each other. I could have stayed there all day!
From here, you can also hike the Fossil Discovery Trail which shows some fossils that are still embedded in the rocks …
After leaving the Visitor’s Center, we took Cub Creek Road through the park. This is one of the only paved roads throughout the monument, and even it turns to dirt the final few miles. (This section is well-graded, though, and passable with any passenger vehicle under good conditions.) It offers several opportunities to view petroglyphs and pictographs (these are the drawings and etchings that were left on the rock by the ancient people who first tamed this wild land). I had seen pictures of these creations before, but had never viewed them in person. Some were absolutely AMAZING!
Aren’t these incredible?!
I’m sure they all had perfectly logical explanations (some of them can be found here) but some looked pretty “unique”…(I’m not saying it’s aliens but…😲😉👽🖖)
This road eventually takes you to Josie’s Cabin, where up until the 1960’s, a woman lived, by herself, until she was well into her 80’s. This was without electricity or running water, mind you! We saw a lot of lovely tree colors in this area. There were several easy hikes that ventured into box canyons that are known for being good for fall colors (they run right along rivers and streams and the cottonwoods that grow there are very pretty).
Island Park Road
This was another beautiful drive that is located on the Utah side of the park. I thought this area had the BEST petroglyphs that we saw throughout the entire monument.
Island Park Road was dirt, and, according to the park office, is said to be “impassable” when wet. (It is suggested to only take high-clearance vehicles on this route, but, when we were there, any vehicle could have handled the drive).
We got lucky, as conditions were absolutely perfect throughout the duration of our trip, with clear skies. So we were visiting under the most opportune conditions. There were several areas we drove through that appeared to be dry creek beds, and looked like they could flood easily during wet conditions. This is also an area that only has one way in or out, so if you drive in under dry conditions, and then a summer thunderstorm pops up…you could find yourself trapped!
Below are a couple of pictures of the Green River as seen from this road…
…and some of the scrubland around the monument (and thanks go out, as usual, to Mr. Trekker for most of these pics!)…
Sunset over the monument!
Have you visited this incredible place? Tell me about your favorite parts of it in the comments!
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In this post, I review Old Baldy, a trail loop near Spearfish, South Dakota that the Trekkers frequent.
There is a great, under-appreciated place to view fall colors in the Black Hills, Old Baldy, near Spearfish, South Dakota! While it’s beautiful in the fall, the Trekkers enjoy it throughout the year as it’s never crowded.
Where is the Old Baldy Trailhead?
The Old Baldy trailhead is on Tinton Road, about halfway between Spearfish and Lead. You can get there from either town.
From Spearfish, the easiest way is to take Exit 8 off of I-90, for McGuigan Road. Take this south to the T-intersection with Tinton Road, and then turn right towards the forest. Take Tinton Road about 10 miles to the trailhead.
If you’re coming from Lead, take US 85 west (towards Wyoming) for about 18 miles out of Lead, until you reach the turnoff for Tinton Road. Take Tinton Road about 18 miles to the trailhead.
The road is gravel, however, it is well-graded. As long as you don’t mind your car getting dusty, any passenger vehicle can handle it under good conditions. In the winter, though, it is rarely plowed past the Iron Creek Lake turnoff when coming from Spearfish. A high-clearance, 4WD vehicle is often needed to drive this road under those conditions, and even then it is often impassable unless you’re on foot, skis, or are powered by a snowmobile.
I’m not sure if this area has been getting more snow in recent years (this part of the Hills receives some of the largest amounts of snow during the winter); or if the Forest Service just isn’t maintaining Tinton Road past the Iron Creek Lake turnoff; or if they’re intending it more for snowmobile usage. But whatever the reason, the road has been almost impassible for much of the winter, lately. One time, we got pretty stuck attempting to reach the trailhead (we were VERY fortunate we carry recovery gear).
What you will see on the Old Baldy Trail
This loop trail is around six miles in total length, with an additional spur to the Mt. Baldy summit that adds a little over 1.5 miles to the total hike. There is a “lake” that is signed, though I use that term VERY loosely. We’ve never actually seen any water in it. It should be called “Green Lake” because it looks like a meadow! There is a small stream that runs through the “lakebed”, but mostly you only see grass and cows near here. 😋
A word of warning, beware of the cows, as well as their “leavings”. 🤥 The National Forest leases this area to local ranchers, so you can find cows anywhere and everywhere near here during the summer.
The trail winds through pine forests with aspen glens dispersed amongst them. It also traverses the edges of a few meadows and offers spectacular views of the surrounding landscape. This area is especially pretty in fall when the yellow of the aspen and green of the pine complement each other beautifully, especially as contrasted against the clear blue, Black Hills sky!
Besides the main loop, there is a spur of the Rimrock Trailthat can be accessed from here, as well. This side trail will take you to the rim of Spearfish Canyon. These are all prime places to enjoy the fall colors the Northern Hills are known for, without having to deal with the crowds you’ll find in the Canyon below.
The trail options here are really just one loop (other than the spur to the Rimrock Trail). If you go right at the fork, heading counterclockwise, you’ll hit the GORGEOUS aspen glen first, traversing the only real switchbacks found on the trail on the downhill.
If you do choose this route, the return trip is a little steeper, but I think it’s easier. There is more open space, so there is also more breeze if you’re warm. The open areas also provide you with INCREDIBLE views of the surrounding mountains and prairie. However, if it’s sunny in the summer, this area could be hotter as there is less shade…
Regardless of which fork you choose, the “lake” and the turnoff to the summit of the mountain are at the bottom of the hill. You know what this means! No matter which fork you pick, you have to climb back up the WHOLE return trip! 😛
If you start off on the left branch of the trail, going clockwise, you’ll hit the more open area of the loop on your descent. Facing this direction, you’ll actually be provided with more expansive views of the surrounding countryside.
Unfortunately, this will mean you have to face the “spirit-crushing switchbacks” (I HATE switchbacks!) through the aspen glen, on the way back up the hill. Because the trees in this area are thicker, it is also more shaded during the summer months. HOWEVER, the denser foliage also means there is less of a breeze…phew! Decisions, decisions!
Either way the aspen glen, especially, is INCREDIBLY beautiful in the fall months, not to mention the surrounding hillsides that are ablaze with yellow from all the aspen trees. The aspen glen is my favorite of the whole trail in the fall.
Author’s note: the American Indians who originally gave the Black Hills their name called them this because the pine forests made the Hills look dark from afar. In recent years, the pine trees have been decimated by pine beetles and some wildfires. Aspen trees grow EXTREMELY WELL in their wake. One wonders if a few hundred years from now, a more appropriate name for these hills may be the Aspen Hills, or the Yellow Hills–the color all the aspens turn in the fall…
These days, if you visit this location, you will see some extensive storm damage. Multiple tornadoes actually went through here in recent summers! That’s a rare occurrence in the Black Hills!
One of the storms was especially nerve-racking for me, as the Trekker Parental Units (and Extended Family) were staying at a rental house near Lead at the time. They were outside the tornado’s track–thankfully–but only by about a mile. 😮 Fortunately, the baseball-sized hail that the storm dropped missed them as well! Helplessly watching that tempest on the radar, while I was sitting in the sunshine over an hour away, was enough to give me a few gray hairs!
When is the best time of year to visit the Old Baldy trail?
The trails are perfect for both summer and winter recreation IF you can reach them in the winter. If Tinton Road is passable as far as the trailhead when there is snow on the ground, the actual site can be hard to find as the sign is often buried by snow. Also, there is usually very little parking as the lane to the parking lot is not plowed.
So, you must make do with parking along the side of the road. In the past, we have come here multiple times to snowshoe or ski. Unfortunately, we haven’t been able to reach the site the last several years.
The difficulty in accessing the trailhead during the winter months is really a shame because it is GORGEOUS under the cover of snow. The sunbeams shine through the bare branches of the aspen trees while the pristine, white snow, and dark-brown bark, contrast perfectly with the dark green pine trees and blue sky. Make sure to wear layers, as it can get pretty windy up here since it’s near the top of the mountain.
This is a fun trail for mountain biking as well, heading downhill. 😋 Going back up can be a bit of a pain, especially if you ascend via the eastern leg of the loop, through the switchbacks. Both hikers and bikers need to be watchful for each other as there are several blind curves and collisions can happen if the bikes round them too quickly.
Horses are also allowed on this trail. It is imperative that bikers watch for these equines, who could shy and throw a rider, or hurt themselves (or the biker) if a bike came racing around a corner and startled them.
If you’re looking for a fine place to view fall colors in the Black Hills, and you’d like to avoid the usual crowds, check out Old Baldy! You’ll be glad you did!
Have you ever tried this trail in any season? Tell me about your experience in the comments!
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We try to camp in the Bighorns, in northeastern Wyoming, at least once a year!
The Trekkers have a tradition of camping in the Bighorns each Labor Day Weekend! Puppers has been a trooper on our camping trips. She enjoys riding in the truck (she doesn’t even mind the BUMPY, jarring journeys we’ve taken her down a few 4×4 roads…too much! 😉) She can keep up with us on the hiking trails and she even handles the tents like a champ (though she needs a little assistance getting in and out of the rooftop tent).
You do have to wonder about people who drive 3+ hours to the wilderness, where they proceed to pee in a bucket and not shower for three days…and call that fun! 🤔😉😎
We finally caved and bought a privacy shelter for this trip, and we were SO glad we did. It made life SO MUCH easier. In the past we’ve used the vestibule that came with the rooftop tent, this worked ok, but even I couldn’t stand up straight in it (not to mention Mr. Trekker’s 6’4 frame). This could be because we have the tent on the trailer rather than on top of the truck, the vestibule likely works better in that situation. But the shelter worked great for changing, for a bathroom along with our Luggable Loo†, and for a shower using the solar shower. It was so cool to look up at night and see the Milky Way shining over you while you were changing or “taking care of business”. 😇
The Bighorn Mountains
I know I’ve said this before, and I hate to sound like a broken record, 😇 but I LOVE the Bighorns. I always forget we aren’t in the depths of the Colorado High Country when we visit there. I love their stony summits, some still sporting spots of white leftovers from last winter’s snowpack, just above the treeline far below.
I always think of them as their own tiny island of mountains that rises out of the high prairie of northeastern Wyoming, but according to Wikipedia, they’re actually a spur of the Rockies separated from the main mountain chain by the Bighorn Basin.
Though this area is just as beautiful as the Rockies, it is FAR less crowded, which makes it so much more pleasant to visit. 😋 There are no lines of people hiking in the Bighorns like we’ve experienced in various places around Colorado. Also, oftentimes, the lower-elevation plains may be baking in 90-degree weather, while it’s in the 60s-70s, and breezy, in the mountains!
It doesn’t hurt that, depending on which area you are heading to, the Bighorns are a shorter, 3 – 4-hour drive from the Black Hills, rather than the 6 – 8+ hours required to reach the mountains in Colorado ( and that’s just the Front Range, in the east-central portion of the state). You will still have to drive through rural Wyoming whether you’re going to Colorado or the Bighorns. However, to reach the mountains in Wyoming, you drive on I-90 the whole way. It’s a little easier if weather is bad, and you don’t have as much trouble with the Wyoming drivers who like to pass on two-lane roads leaving little room for oncoming cars…(ahem!🤬🤯) ( Of course, all that being said, no one should visit here, ever, it’s just a terrible place to be. 😮😇🙃)
The Bighorns aren’t to be trifled with though. These mountains are rugged, with little accommodations by way of gas, food, and supplies. Small towns, such as Buffalo, Ten Sleep, Greybull, and Sheridan dot the area. But these are few and far between (not to mention pretty tiny, by the standards of “normal” people who aren’t used to the small settlements that are common in the West). 😉 This is a national forest area, not a national park, so even camping accommodations are rustic, rarely offering more than potable water and a pit toilet (and those are the fancy ones)! 😮 So, if you’re looking to visit this area, be prepared to be self-sufficient. The views will make it worth the trial, though!
The night sky in the Bighorns
There isn’t a lot of light pollution in the Bighorns, so on clear nights, you are treated to an INCREDIBLE light show! Once the sun sets, the stars and planets come out in abundance. My whole life, I’ve never seen a night sky that is comparable to what you find in the crisp coolness of the high mountains. The sky actually looks like it has the measles, as there is almost a rash of stars that covers it. The cloudy ribbon of the Milky Way is often clearly visible as it stretches across the expanse of darkness. You can almost sense it glowing from within. It is truly an incredible sight.
Silent Night in the high mountains
Our campsite was at about 7500 feet on this visit (oftentimes we stay much higher, closer to 9000-10,000 feet). We’ve noticed something odd at these high altitudes that we have also experienced in Colorado’s High Country. There is a distinct lack of “night sounds”. You don’t hear the chirping of crickets or croaking of frogs in that thinner air, even on warmer nights, and I don’t know why. Nights tend to be pretty cool in those places, so it may be due to this, or just that there is a very short season where the night air would even be warm enough for the creatures to survive. But whatever the reason, when we’re up so high I do miss the “chirping” sounds of a summer night.
Dispersed camping in the Bighorn National Forest
Sometimes when we head out we Disperse Camp. This is also known as “dry camping”, where you just set up your camp somewhere in the national forest, outside of an established campground. We tried this for the first time in Colorado, at both State Forest State Park and near Crested Butte. On both occasions, we did stay at an actual, numbered campsite, it was just away from any campground and we weren’t able to see our neighbors.
On this trip, there were no numbered sites, but they did request that you stay at an already established campsite (designated by fire rings). I have never experienced such a busy weekend in the Bighorns! We stayed near Circle Park (there are a lot of “parks” in this region, they are basically just large, meadowy areas amongst the forests). It was a lovely site with views of the surrounding mountains, but we could see three other campsites from ours (one had a large group in it). We could hear even more campers, just on the other side of the copse of trees we were camped near. Next time, we’ll have to try going even farther out if we hope to have more privacy! 😉
Moose in the Bighorns!
I wasn’t sure if we’d see any moose on this trip since we were sticking mainly to the southern portion of the Bighorns and I wasn’t aware of any waterways running near our campsite (which moose favor). We lucked out though. It only happened one time, but at about 6:30 one morning, as the Pup and I were enjoying her “morning constitutional”, I spotted Martin the Bull Moose sauntering through the “park”, down the hill from our campsite! SUCCESS!!! Puppers wasn’t sure what to make of that LARGE, funny-looking thing!
Hiking Trails
Circle Park Trail:
We did this same trail on our first trip to the Bighorns, several years ago, in October. It’s a nice hike, fairly wide and graded, and not terribly steep (though it is quite rocky in several places). We walked to Sherd Lake, which is absolutely GORGEOUS! There are views of several nearby mountains, such as Bighorn and Darton Peaks, from here. This trail is around four miles total, so it’s perfect for a day hike (especially with a not-quite-full-stamina, juvenile, canine friend). 🐶
The trail continues on to several other lakes from there. It also connects with an 8-mile loop that snakes around the nearby mountain peaks, if you’re looking for a lengthy hike (or a good backpacking trip).
Maybelle Lake Trail (off Forest Road 430):
This hike was deceptively tough. It’s only about three miles in total length, but it’s overgrown in many spots, very rocky and there are lots of downed trees. We actually lost the trail several times and had to root around to locate it again. Other parts of it are PERFECT though. They feature a flat, graded path through a moist, pine forest, that is surrounded on both sides by a green carpet of ferns, moss, and soft undergrowth. It almost felt like hiking in the cool rainforests of the Pacific Northwest. It was such an idyllic sight!
The other difficulty is in reaching this trail. You have to drive about 45 minutes (one way) on a rugged, 4×4 road to get to the trailhead. We had done this route several years ago, so we knew what to expect, but this would NOT be appropriate for a normal car, or even just a high clearance vehicle. If you don’t have a 4×4, with gear intended for off-road purposes, you should NOT attempt this road. (As an example, after trying this route a few years ago, we decided skid plates would be an important addition to the truck.) After completing the road on this adventure, there is some paint hanging from the skid plates in a few spots (we sure were glad they were there!) 😋
Tensleep Canyon
I’ve mentioned this canyon before, but this is one of the most beautiful places in the Bighorns. If you are anywhere near this national forest and you have the chance to drive the canyon, you absolutely MUST put it on your list. It is NOT to be missed. This is one of our favorite areas in this national forest, and we try to enjoy it whenever we’re nearby.
The canyon is surrounded by arid, rocky cliffs on both sides, and is located on the southwest side of the Bighorn mountains. One great thing about it is that EVERYONE can experience it. US 16 is the main road that runs through the middle of the canyon. It’s an easy-to-drive, paved byway.
For the best views, I would travel down the canyon, from east to west, on Route 435. This is actually a dirt road that runs parallel to US 16 on the canyon’s southern side. It’s a very well-graded route though, so as long as you don’t mind your car getting a little dusty, any 2WD vehicle can handle it in good weather (beware, the road may be impassable during snowy or muddy conditions. The road is also closed to vehicles November – June).
It’s a two-way road, but it’s fairly narrow, so take your time and be cautious. There is room to pass a vehicle coming the other way but both drivers need to be aware as the lane gets tight.
This route provides better views down the length of the canyon into the dry expanse of Bighorn Basin, that opens up between the western slopes of the Bighorns and the eastern slopes of the Absarokas (near Yellowstone National Park). While the Bighorns provide cooler conditions, even on the hottest days of the summer, the Basin sits on a high prairie that lies in the rain shadow of the larger mountains, to the west, and bakes under the heat waves of the summer sun.
On your return trip up the canyon, take the paved, US 16 for incredible views of the dun-colored rock and sparse, short, green trees and bushes that comprise the canyon walls. They stand out in contrast to the deep blue of the sky above. These views are SO beautiful!
You aren’t very likely to see moose in this area, it’s too dry and hot for the vittles they enjoy dining on. The northern side of the Bighorns, near routes like US 14 and 14A, are prime spots for spotting these ungulates.
For the best light, it’s best to drive up the canyon, west to east, in the afternoon when the sun is at your back! Here is a link to a video I made of our drive up the canyon.
We were glad to enjoy another successful, Labor Day, camping trip to the Bighorns. We really enjoy returning to this area year after year. There are so many things to see here, it can’t all be done in one weekend!
Have you hiked to Sherd or Maybelle Lakes? What did you think of the trails? Tell me about your experiences in the comments!
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In this post, I review one of our favorite canoeing sites, Deerfield Lake, in the Black Hills of South Dakota.
Deerfield Lake is one of the Trekkers’ favorite spots for canoeing in the Black Hills (another is Jenney Gulch, on Pactola Lake.) This site is the terminus for the lengthy Deerfield Trail, that I’ve mentioned in another post. There are many things to enjoy about this part of the Black Hills. It’s a little more remote, so it does take a little longer to reach, but it’s also higher in elevation so it tends to be cooler. In the winter, this may not be as pleasant, but in the summer, when you are roasting in Rapid City, you can head to the Deerfield area for a less oppressively warm, far more enjoyable day.
Where in the Black Hills is Deerfield Reservoir?
This body of water is easy to reach, just take Deerfield Road west, from Hill City, for about 15 miles. You drive right past it so you can’t miss it! 🙃
What fun things can you do at Deerfield Lake?
There is a hiking trail, that circumvents the lake, which is also good for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing in the colder months. There are several campgrounds available around the lake, as well. You should be aware these are National Forest campgrounds, which we always love,but they usually have very sparse accommodations. Potable water and vault toilets are about all you can expect at these campsites (though they are usually quiet and some spots have WONDERFUL views). This is also one of our favorite areas for acquiring Christmas trees in the Black Hillsif you know where to look…
What makes Deerfield Reservoir so great?
One of the best things about this lake is that it is fairly large in size (comparable to Sheridan Lake farther to the east) but it has a no-wake rule. So, while people can bring motorized boats if they wish (and some do, to fish) they aren’t allowed to go very fast. This regulation makes Deerfield Reservoir an opportune site for the slower, water sports such as canoeing, kayaking, and paddle-boarding.
We are especially thankful for the peacefulness of this place as there was a measure put forth to the State Legislature to drop the no-wake rule. This would have allowed boats to travel at wake-speed which would likely have increased the frequency and amount of larger boats using the lake. Fortunately, after a STRONG public outcry from locals, it was defeated. We were SO glad! This is truly one of the best places to canoe or kayak in the Black Hills (in my opinion). There are other nice lakes around Custer State Park, but they aren’t nearly as large. They don’t offer as nice of views of the surrounding mountains either. (With all that being said, this is a horrible place to visit and everyone should stay away! 😮😉)
More pictures of our canoe day are below, courtesy of Mr. Trekker!
With all this talk of canoeing, I would be remiss not to mention the rack system that we use to safely transport our mighty vessel. 😉 We really like the Yakima KeelOver Rooftop Canoe Rack†. It installs INCREDIBLY easily–and quickly–on the luggage rack on top of your vehicle. It also both protects the canoe from damage and holds it in place very well. Basically, the way it is designed, there are four separate, cushioned feet that attach to the already-installed luggage rack. If the canoe starts to slide to the left or the right, it is held in place by the feet on the opposite side. The kit also comes with tie-down straps that are used side-to-side and front-to-back to strap the canoe to the vehicle. It should be noted that this system is specifically intended for canoes only.
The next time you’re looking to escape the heat of a summer day in Rapid City, check out Deerfield Lake. It makes for a quiet retreat from the hustle and bustle of the busier, tourist towns, and offers scenic views as well. Go out and enjoy it!
Have you canoed at Deerfield Lake? Tell me about your experience in the comments!
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Mount Desert Island, Bar Harbor and “the Quiet Side” of Acadia National Park
Acadia is a beautiful park that takes up the majority of Mount Desert Island, on Maine’s coast. Thanks to the waterways that are found near it, this island is a bit oddly shaped.
If you’re a visual person, like me, this map may make the directions I use throughout the rest of the post more clear. 😇
The main island is composed of two halves. The eastern half contains Bar Harbor and the majority of the touristy sites–this side is far busier. It definitely offers the most options in way of shops, lodging and food choices, though. Also, many of the tours leave from here, but the amount of traffic and people can get a little crazy.
The western half of the island lives up to its nickname as “the Quiet Side of Acadia” as it is far less commercialized and therefore, FAR quieter than the other areas on the island. This is where we rented our “tiny house” Air B&B for the week, and we enjoyed staying here (we live in one of the least populated states in the country, we’re more into wildlife than people 😛). If you’re seeking a more relaxing stay, I recommend staying here, or the even more remote Schoodic Peninsula.
A pass is required to access basically any of the park sites. These are available easily online, but only at a few places on-site (the park gates and the Visitor’s Center). So if you don’t get a pass online, one of your first priorities after arriving here should be to acquire one.
Also, parking can be quite a challenge. The outdoor store, L.L. Bean, has been generous enough to pay for the site’s public shuttles, that run throughout the park and much of the island, making them free for visitors. Bikes can be transported on these, as well.
Acadia was a bit of a different experience for us. The national parks out west, that we’ve become accustomed to, are frequently located in the middle of nowhere. They are also usually surrounded by other public lands (such as BLM land, National Forests, etc.) Also, most national park boundaries surround one big chunk of land. I had anticipated that Acadia would fit these characteristics, as well.
Acadia National Park surprised me though. It is comprised of individual segments of land that are surrounded by residential, privately-owned properties. Much of the park land was donated to the National Park Service by the famous, Rockefeller family, many years ago.
While most of it is found on Mount Desert Island, some also sits on the nearby Schoodic Peninsula (on the mainland) as well as on several islands that are situated a short distance off the coast. The park’s more residential location means it offers easier access to civilization (lodging, restaurants, and shops) but it also poses a bit of a challenge for parking and viewing some of the natural areas as you have to skirt the privately-owned land.
The Best Things to Do at Acadia National Park:
This park has been on the Trekkers’ “to-do” list for a while now. See below for some of the highlights we most enjoyed from our visit…
The Best Sunrise and Sunset spots at Acadia:
Due to the park’s location on the east coast of the US, it is set up much better for viewing sunrises rather than sunsets. This is mainly due to the open ocean being primarily toward the east, while to the west there are forested hills and mountains.
However, if you prefer sunsets, or you want to view both (OR you are lazy, like the Trekkers, and you don’t want to get up at 4 am–or earlier–to go watch the sunrise 😉) I’ll give you some opportune places to catch a nice sunset.
Seal Cove: We didn’t find this site till one of our last nights on the island, but it’s a fine place to watch the sunset (and its easy to reach too). This location is on the southwest corner, of the western half, of Mount Desert Island. This area is a quiet, peaceful place to watch the sunset, and during low tide, it provides a rocky beach to clamber around on.
The parking area for the salt marsh, near Seawall: We saw a GORGEOUS sunset here, over the salt marsh, to the west. The setting sun outlined thunderheads far in the distance. This site makes for a fine place to watch the moonrise over the ocean to the east (or the sunrise, if you’re an early bird). Based on the activities of other visitors that we saw there, this is also a prime spot for clamming during low-tide. No matter the reason you’re stopping here to visit, be sure to bring the mosquito spray! This site is found on the southeast corner of the western, “Quiet Side” of the island.
Cadillac Mountain: This is the highest point on the island and in the park. On clear days, it allows for FANTASTIC views of the nearby mountains, and, of course, the Atlantic Ocean and the islands that dot its bays. Sunrise is the busiest time to visit this locale, though the Blue Hill Overlook, found shortly before you reach the summit, would make for a fine place to view the sunset as it faces west. This site can be reached off the Park Loop Road on the eastern half of the island.
Bass Harbor Lighthouse: It’s difficult to really see the sunset from here as it faces roughly south and there are hills that block your view to the west. However, the way the setting sun makes the sky glow, and the way that frames the lighthouse against the rocky shoreline is quite lovely. This site is found on the southern tip of the “Quiet Side” of the island, south of Southwest Harbor.
Acadia’s Lighthouses
With it’s unique location directly on the coast of Maine, Acadia offers many cool lighthouses to visit!
Bass Harbor Lighthouse:This is the only lighthouse in Acadia that can be easily reached and viewed by car. It’s also a regularly photographed spot (for good reason.) It’s manned by the Coast Guard now, so you can’t actually go up it, but you can walk to its base. There is a short, hiking trail that leads to the rocks on the light’s opposite side, that is nice as well–this is also the viewpoint for sunrise/sunset!
Bear Island Lighthouse: This is one of the only other lighthouses near Acadia that can be viewed from shore/by car, and it takes work. We ended up with a bit of a quest to find it, but we managed, eventually!
Based on the light’s location on the map, we knew it should be visible from the shore. So, for several evenings, we drove around trying to catch a glimpse of it. Alas, all those pesky trees that grow on the East Coast (and some of the privately-owned, residential land) made it difficult. 😉 We DID finally find it though (without trespassing I might add 😉).
**If you’d like to set out on your own quest to search for it yourself, be my guest. If, however, you’d like directions on how to find it, scroll to the bottom of this post and I’ll leave them there.**
If you visit Acadia National Park and enjoy lighthouses as we do, I highly recommend taking a lighthouse boat tour. Almost all of the structures reside on nearby islands, and some are open for touring, at certain times of the year. I didn’t realize just how many islands are included within the park’s boundaries (and scattered around the nearby waterways). This means many of the lights can really only be viewed from the water.
Hiking Trails around Acadia:
There are numerous hikes available at Acadia, ranging from short to lengthy and easy to difficult. Below are the ones we enjoyed:
The Beehive/Bowl/Gorham Mountain Trails: The Beehive Trail is an AWESOME hike! This was on my “must-do” list while visiting Acadia. This trail is the little brother to the infamous “Precipice Trail”. Now THAT ONE looks scary. It was actually closed when we were there (and is for much of each summer) due to it being a nesting area for peregrine falcons.
We knew this going in, and I was fine with it. I don’t know that my fear of heights would allow me to complete this scramble up the side of a mountain.
All of these trailheads can be accessed via the Park Loop Road on the eastern side of Mount Desert Island, south of Bar Harbor.
We also combined the Bowl and Gorham Mountain Trails into this hike, as they all connect. We had intended to make a loop of it by including the Cadillac Cliffs Path, and then take the Ocean Path back to the parking area, but I was starting to have my usual struggles with the heat, so we cut it a bit short.
All of these trails were of moderate length. The Bowl and Gorham Mountain Trails were moderately strenuous. The Beehive Trail was quite strenuous (though mercifully short) as you basically scramble up the side of the mountain, free-climbing over boulders and using iron rungs that have been strategically placed throughout the route.
The picture below looks pretty terrifying, but it actually wasn’t that bad. Trust me, I don’t like heights, but there was only one brief moment when I became uncomfortable (and it can be crossed in just a few steps). The views from the top are INCREDIBLE though, and make the trek worth it! If you’re hot, you can loop around and take a dip in the refreshing Bowl in the valley below!
Great Head Trail: Because we chose to cut the above route short, we were able to enjoy a good portion of this trail that is found in the forest, just to the west of Sand Beach. Sand Beach can be reached from the same parking area as the Beehive/Bowl trailheads. This was really convenient as we were able to park the car once and hike for most of the day (just make sure to get there early!)
Wonderland Trail and Ship Harbor Trail:
The Wonderland and Ship Harbor Trails are accessed via Route 102A, on the western side of the island, south of Southwest Harbor.
These hikes were short, easy and VERY enjoyable. Due to their location on “the Quiet Side” of the island, they were much less busy than other areas of the park.
Mr. Trekker thought the photography opportunities they offered were comparable to ones we found in many of the more well-traveled sections of the park, as well.
These routes take you down to the shore where you can walk the rocks and view the organisms living in the tide pools (at low tide).
Other Fun Things to do at Acadia National Park:
Thunder Hole: So this place is pretty awesome…when the winds and tide are strong. When the conditions are right…the wind forces the waves into a small cave on the shore, which then, in turn, forces air out of the cave creating a crashing sound that reverberates off the nearby rocks!
Click here to see its full potential! (Take note, when we visited this site we were standing on the walkway you see at the bottom of the video, and others were standing on the rocks at the top of the frame. 😮–the trail is closed during this type of bad weather.)
When conditions aren’t right…it’s still cool, but not quite the draw it could be. Fortunately, we were blessed with pretty nice weather throughout our trip. Unfortunately, nice weather doesn’t bode well to experience the full effect of this location. When we were there it was more like “gurgle hole”. 😂
Carriage Roads: This is another activity I’d put on our “must-do” list if we return to the park in the future. These gravel roads snake throughout the forests of the interior of the island. Bike rentals are available, though you still need to figure out how to get the bike to the trails. (I’d recommend bringing your own. We considered it, but decided not to drag our bikes on a 5000+ mile road trip for one day of biking. 😛)
These trails were used by the Rockefeller family for their carriages when they owned the land–hence their name. There are also some carriage rides still available through the stables on the island, where your carriage is pulled by beautiful draft horses!
Jordan Pond/”The Bubbles”: As I mentioned in a previous post, Jordan Pond is again a place where they use the word “pond” when “lake” would make a much better descriptor. 😂 Several carriage roads start from here. There’s also a restaurant and store in the historic building that was the original farmhouse built on this site.
There is a decent hiking trail that circles the lake. We only did a portion of it (the easy part that was on a boardwalk). The other half appeared to be more rugged. I don’t think it had much elevation gain, just a lot of rocks to clamber over.
We met a lady later in the day, who had actually slipped off some rocks on the harder section and fell in the lake 😮 (she was fine).
The boardwalk portion is basically completely flat and offers fine views of the lake, the nearby building and “The Bubbles”–I’m not sure who gave this name to these twin mountains. They looked like something more PG-13 rated to me but…to each their own. 😱
Cadillac Mountain: We actually chose NOT to hike Cadillac Mountain on this trip. This was for several reasons:
–We only had a few days at Acadia and we can hike mountains whenever we want, but we CAN’T visit the beach too often. So, we chose to spend most of our time there.
–Also, aspiring hikers should be aware that much of Cadillac Mountain trail has little shade, so it can be quite hot in the summer months. (This was another reason we chose to skip it, as heat and I don’t get along. 😝)
We did make the easy drive to the summit on multiple occasions. Sunrise is a busy time here, for obvious reasons, so if you’re choosing to go then I suggest you plan to leave early. It’s beautiful at any time of day though, so long as the weather is clear.
The Park Loop Road: This road basically “loops” around the outer boundaries of the park (hence the name). It features numerous pull offs where scenic views can be enjoyed, as well as plenty of recreational sites. There are several picturesque bridges along its length that reminded us of the ones we saw in Virginia on the Blue Ridge Parkway.
Wildlife: We were told there are bears and moose on the Schoodic Peninsula portion of the park, on the mainland. Other than that, the majority of exotic wildlife that Acadia offers is sea life. (This would have been a cool sight as we don’t usually see these types of critters at the landlocked national parks we frequent in the Western US!)
We didn’t see many sea creatures, but this is likely due to the fact that we didn’t venture out on the water. There are whale watch tours that depart from near the park. I’ve also heard stories of people who go on sea kayaking tours where seals and dolphins are known to come close and curiously inspect the watercraft.
As we only had a few days here, we chose not to do these, but if we return for a future visit, they’ll definitely be on our “to-do” list. If you visit the park, I would encourage you to seek these out as you may see some unique wildlife not always available at other parks.
LOBSTER!!!
I got to enjoy my first lobster on this trip (and my first New England lobster roll!) I liked it!
I got a “classic” roll, with the lobster already shelled for you and warmed with butter, on a buttered, toasted roll. It was easy and delicious! After watching many of our seat-mates struggling to crack through the shells of their dinner, I was happy to go the easy route.
We enjoyed our meal at Beal’s Lobster Pier in Southwest Harbor. This place is NOT fancy (and I mean that in a good way). It was the PERFECT place for us to enjoy our first lobster experience, though.
It’s basically a walk-up counter, and then your number is called and you get your food. You enjoy it outside, or on a screened-in porch, all on picnic tables. We absolutely LOVED it!
If you’re looking for something more up-scale, there’s plenty of options for those as well, but the Trekkers are a casual bunch. 😛
We really enjoyed this trip! Our goal was to travel as few interstates as possible once we reached “northern New England”, and we felt like we were fairly successful at that.
I’ve mentioned beforehow much I enjoy taking the slower backroads (and by this, I mean anything from two-lane, US highways to dirt, county and forest roads). We’re already planning another trip to that area in the next few years, to more fully explore the Adirondacks and Finger Lakes regions of New York, as well as more of Vermont and New Hampshire. On that trip, we’ll map out “backroads” more before we go, with the goal being to avoid interstates as much as possible once we reach New York!
I hope you enjoyed my review of Acadia. It definitely has some unique characteristics as far as national parks are concerned. We enjoyed visiting it, and would certainly consider another trip. While we love living in the Black Hills, we both miss easier access to the ocean (especially Mr. Trekker). Neither of us is really a “beach bum”, but exploring the rugged, rocky shores of Maine is right up our alley!
A few more pics from the trip:
**SPOILER ALERT!!!**
OK, if you want to know how to find the Bear Island lighthouse, you can spot it, flashing at night, from a public parking lot off of Norwood Road, east of Southwest Harbor. Good luck on your quest! I don’t actually know if it’s visible from there in the daylight, we didn’t get over there at that time of day. If anyone knows of other places to view the lighthouse from public land, let me know in the comments!
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In this post, I review the New England road trip we took through Vermont and New Hampshire during the summer of 2019.
3 weeks, 13 states, 5,138 miles, and 2 quarts of oil (FYI, Subarus inhale oil) gives you a grand New England Road Trip! Because, when you live in Western South Dakota, why wouldn’t you drive all the way to the coast of Maine for summer vacation? 😮😛
In 2019 the Trekkers spent three weeks on a whirlwind tour of the Northeast. We spent the first week visiting with Mr. Trekkers’ family in Connecticut, enjoying some of the old haunts from his childhood. Then we spent a weekend toodling around Vermont and New Hampshire, and then enjoyed several days at Acadia National Park, in Maine. We finished with a quick visit with my family in Indiana on the way back. Read on for “Don’t Miss” places for your Vermont and New Hampshire road trip!
Northern New England Countryside
I love northern New England! After traveling the crazy highways that snake all around its southern section, you hit the Vermont state line and life seems to slow down a little, again. You find yourself quickly returning to the small-town charm of country towns; earthy, damp smells radiate from the walls of green trees and ferns in the woods that surround you. It feels different here… most of the trees are deciduous hardwoods, whereas we’re used to the evergreens more commonly found in the Black Hills (and areas of Colorado that we frequent). It feels almost like a rainforest compared to the more arid land we’re used to. It reminded us a bit of the Redwood forests in California (except without the Redwood trees 😛).
“Don’t Miss” sites in Vermont and New Hampshire
Below are some highlights from our whirlwind tour…
Route 100, Vermont:
We traversed much of this scenic byway that spans the majority of the state, from north to south. Several of the locations listed below were found on or near that road. Throughout these travels, we enjoyed one of Vermont’s prime attractions, covered bridges, as well.
For more pictures of some great waterfalls around New England, check out my friend, Kathy’s blog here.
Ben and Jerry’s Flagship Store, Waterbury Vermont:
We decided we didn’t have time to actually do the factory tour where you can watch how the ice cream is made (though that would have been REALLY cool). However, we did get ice cream from the official store, and I’ve got a tie-dyed t-shirt to prove it! We did take the time to check out a portion of the grounds called the “flavor graveyard”. It was a little weird 🙃 but it was interesting seeing the various flavor options that have come and gone throughout the years. Check out the website for the factory here.
Cold Hollow Cider Mill, Waterbury, VT:
Just up the road from Ben and Jerry’s is a cool cider mill. It specializes in fresh-baked, cider donuts. I thought they tasted more like spice cake, but either way, they were good! Click here to check out the website for the mill!
The Vermont Country Store, Weston, VT:
This place was nice. It kind of reminded me of Wall Drug, in Wall, SD, but was far less immense. It was definitely a cute place to pick up some local delicacies and check out some cool, retro toys and games from the ’80s, that brought back memories of our childhoods. 😁
Quechee Gorge, Hartford, VT:
This place was really cool! The Ottauquechee River cuts through over 100 feet of rock in this area, the result is a GORGEOUS, scenic view. A hiking trail nearby takes you on an easy hike of less than one mile, to the head of the gorge, where the river is dammed. This provides a unique view down the length of the canyon.
The trail also traverses about a mile downhill, the length of the gorge, to where the river emerges from the rock again. This is a popular swimming area. Be aware though, as it’s downhill from the main parking lot all the way to the swimming site, you know what that means for the return trip! 😛
Simon Pearce Glass Mill and Store, Quechee, VT:
Ran using hydroelectric power from the same river that formed the Quechee Gorge, this place was AWESOME! We were able to watch the artisans blow and shape the glass in the mill, in the basement, while the final product is sold in the store upstairs. The shop also features a nice restaurant that overlooks the river.
We decided the creations (even the seconds) were a little too rich for our blood, especially with the risk of breaking them as it was the middle of a lengthy road trip!
Camping at State Parks in Vermont and Maine
Because we enjoy camping, and it helps to keep costs down when on road trips, we spent a few nights at state parks in both Vermont and Maine. The mosquitoes were bad throughout the trip, but that’s to be expected in the middle of the damp woods. 😉
I’m a nature girl, I like critters, even the slithery, skittering, venomous–if we must–kind, as long as we can leave each other alone. What I can’t abide are mosquitoes. Seriously, why, just why? That will be one of the many questions I have for the “Big Guy” someday.
What purpose do they serve? Food for other critters? That’s fine, but why do they have to suck OUR blood, causing welts that itch to high heaven (and are bigger than the critter that left them) that last for days on end, and can even end up infected due to excessive scratching brought on by the extreme itching (I know from experience). A bug that DOESN’T carry potentially deadly disease couldn’t fill that spot? I’m just saying. 😛 They say God doesn’t make mistakes but the presence of mosquitoes makes me wonder a bit. 🤔
The campsites throughout the campgrounds were largely gravel and flat. They have large stone hearths to use for fires, we aren’t used to that in the Black Hills. It made me think of the Flintstones. 😂 Most of the sites were large enough they could fit a small trailer/pop-up camper (we just brought the old, trusty, ground tent for this trip). There were also flush toilets, electricity, and showers (oh my! 😱) I can’t remember the last time we had those types of “fancy” amenities when camping! 😉
This may be because it’s been a while since we stayed at a state park. We’ve gotten used to national forest sites, with their vault toilets (and that’s it). 😋 Other than their more rustic accommodations though, national forestsare still my favorite places to camp.
Below are some of the parks we visited:
Coolidge State Park, Plymouth, VT:
This is a newer park, and it includes buildings from the historical homestead of the 30th President of the United States, Calvin Coolidge. This was the first place we camped, and the quietest. Sites were shaded and well-separated from each other.
New Discovery State Park, Marshfield, VT:
This place was cute. It rained that night, but not till we were nearing the end of our fire logs, so it was a nice sound to lull us to sleep. There was a weird bird that kept attacking its reflection in the side mirror of my car, and a garter snake got my heart racing when it crawled out of a hole in our fire hearth! 😱 Other than these visitors, though, it was a decent little campground.
Sebago Lake State Park, Naples, ME:
Funnily enough, I actually completed a writeup about this park, just a few weeks before we visited, for an online job I had at the time! This was the busiest park we stayed at, with sites that were placed the closest together. They were nice, and shaded, and allowed you close contact with all your New Yorker neighbors 😋 (we definitely don’t hear the Brooklyn accent much out in Western South Dakota! 😂) One unique aspect of this area was all the sycamore trees, with their LARGE, scalloped leaves.
This park sits on the northern shores of the VERY large, Sebago Lake. It was cold, but refreshing to swim in. We enjoyed our almost-lakeside campsite. It was cool watching the full moon rise over the flat, mirrored waters of the lake after dark.
Camping in Vermont
I love camping! I love the random, natural experiences you have that you don’t notice cooped up in a house…the sun that dapples through the treetops as water droplets dribble and drip from the still-wet leaves after the rainstorm from the night before…you can see blue sky and stars peeking through the crowns of the trees…the sunbeams filter through the crown of tree leaves and slice through the morning mists that rise from the damp ground…you wake up in the morning to the granddaddy-long-leg who waves at you from his perch on the outside of your tent…
Vermont state parks are pretty nice. They have lean-to’s that can be rented out, which we’ve never seen at developed campgrounds before. They don’t seem like they would provide the most privacy or protection from the weather–or any critters–as it appeared people just set their hammocks/sleeping gear up in the shelter that has a roof, but only three walls. We did see several people putting up tarps as a fourth wall.
They’re big on their “ponds” in New England, except many of them are bigger than the “lakes”. Many are as big as some of the largest reservoirs in the Black Hills. They may need to work on their wording a bit. 😋
Scenic Drives in New Hampshire
As we’ve already driven several of the main scenic routes through the White Mountains in New Hampshire, this time we chose to try out the northern route (US 2 to Route 16). As it turns out, this isn’t nearly as pretty as the scenic byways that are comprised of Route 112 and US 302, that traverse areas such as Franconia Notch. Those areas are GORGEOUS!
We then ventured into North Conway for lunch. This was our second time visiting this little town. We realized we had been there almost exactly 10 years ago, shortly before we got married!
We had attempted to hike the infamous Mount Washington on that trip, but we didn’t make it to the summit thanks to several factors (including a certain blogger leaving breakfast on the side of the mountain 🤮). I want to come back and try it again though, Tuckerman Ravine looks SO beautiful! Now that we hike more regularly and are FAR more used to higher altitudes, I’m hoping we’ll be able to handle it a bit better.
Both of the Trekkers visited New Hampshire several times throughout our childhoods and we always really enjoyed it. We were surprised to note that, on this trip, we both found the woods of southern Vermont to be more welcoming than the rugged forests of northern Vermont and New Hampshire/Maine. (The northern mountains reminded us of the Black Hills so they didn’t seem as much like a vacation. 😋) They also reminded us of other northern forests that we’ve been to, such as those in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, those in Glacier National Park/northwestern Montana, those in the Big Horns, and those in northern Colorado (such as in State Forest State Park).
Looking for more amazing pictures of the New England mountains? Check out the Rusch to the Outdoors blog!
It got us to thinking about how much has happened in 10 years: we got married; we moved to South Dakota; there were new jobs for both of us; we bought a house…what will the next 10 years bring? Good things hopefully!
Have you ever been to these parts of New Hampshire or Vermont? Tell me about your experiences in the comments!
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