Tag: hiking

Dinosaur National Monument: the Colorado Side

In this post, I discuss the Colorado side of Dinosaur National Monument.

 

In this post, I reviewed the Trekkers’ visit to the Utah side of Dinosaur National Monument.  In this post, I’ll be discussing the Colorado side (as the park spans both states).

Scenic Drives on the Colorado Side of Dinosaur National Monument 

One of the main things we enjoyed on the Colorado side of the monument was the scenic drives.  There are several found throughout this portion of the park, though all but Harper’s Corner Road are suggested for high-clearance vehicles only.

As I mentioned in Part 1, under good conditions most of these roads are great to drive (honestly several of them were less bumpy than some of the paved, county roads we drove on).  I would have felt comfortable taking any vehicle with a higher wheelbase on these (such as an Outback), and we saw several SUVs.

I cannot stress enough though, that we were there in the most ideal weather possible.  According to the park, several of the roads are completely impassable when wet.  This seemed likely as we crossed many dry stream beds that could easily fill with stormwater runoff.  It also makes sense that the powdery dirt that covers the surface of many of these routes could quickly turn into slippery ooze when wet.  Many of the roads also only have one way in or out, so, if you reach the end, and then a rainstorm comes…you may not be able to get back out again.  Several also lead through low-lying canyons which are likely to flood quickly in a heavy rain event.  So please, be wary before attempting these roads if any bad weather conditions are present or expected.

Click here for the NPS website for the park which will have up-to-date info on current road conditions.

Harper’s Corner Road

This is the main road through the Colorado section of Dinosaur National Monument.  You access it near Dinosaur, Colorado.  This is also one of the only paved roads in the park.  At the end of it is the Harper’s Corner Trail which offers INCREDIBLE views.

Hiking on Harper’s Corner Trail

This trail is beautiful! At times you are hiking on an almost knife-edge of rock, with the Green River winding along beside you on one side, and the Yampa River on the other.  Did I mention you are up to 2500 feet ABOVE these waterways throughout the hike? 😮  It got my acrophobic-heart pumping a bit! (It really wasn’t too bad.  I only felt nervous in one spot where you get a healthy view of a chute, down a cliffside. 😋)

I would rate this trail as “easy”.  It’s about three miles in total length (out and back) and it doesn’t have much elevation gain.  Just about anyone wearing tennis shoes should be able to handle it (though I should note the park is at an altitude of over 5000 feet, so “flatlanders” may want to take it slow. 😉)  At the end of the trek you are treated to an AMAZING view down the canyon, and of Steamboat Rock from above, behind which the Yampa and Green Rivers meet.

A narrow river valley in a desert landscape as seen from above. Short trees are in the foreground while a thin, green river can be seen far below.
One of the incredible lookout points from the Harper’s Corner Trail. That’s the Green River far below, you can maybe see how it got its name.
Looking out over a desert, badlands landscape from above. Short trees are in the foreground with a large, rock formation in the background.
Steamboat Rock, from above…

Echo Park Road

This route takes you from Harper’s Corner Road, east, to Echo Park and its campground.  This area is called a “park”, like several other locations in Colorado.  It is really just a flat, meadow-like area.  It was cool!  (Hint, it’s called “Echo Park” for a reason, I encourage you to experiment with this 😁.)

This route traverses the lower “benches” of land that can be seen from above when traversing the Harper’s Corner trail.  They are called this as they are wide sections of terrain.  They literally look like benches, or steps, that rim the lower, river canyons. 

The road winds through an incredible canyon where sheer rock towers over you on both sides.  From here you can see Steamboat Rock from the bottom, where it’s much more impressive.

There is a short hike along the river’s edge that is around two miles long (out-and-back).  It takes you to the confluence of the Yampa and Green Rivers.  There is also a place on this road called Whispering Cave.  It appeared fairly unassuming, at first, as it’s just a vertical slit in the rock wall of the canyon, that you can stand in.  This was until we figured out its secret (and how it got its name).  If people stand at either end of this long slit and whisper REALLY quietly…you can hear each other VERY well (thanks to the unique acoustics of the rock structure).  And it’s far more effective than if you try the same thing outside (we checked! 😉)

Click here for a short video of the drive!

A dirt road snakes through a narrow canyon, rock towers on three sides.
The canyon on Echo Park Road.

A river with a desert landscape and rock rising in the background

A dry, yellowed meadow in a desert landscape and rock rising in the background
Echo Park!
A river with a large rock that resembles a shark's fin rising behind it, all in a desert landscape.
Another view of Steamboat Rock!

Yampa Bench Road

This route takes you from Echo Park Road, east, all the way to US 40 in Elk Springs (though there are a few places you can bug out before you get that far, dependent on road conditions).  This was the most difficult route we encountered.  The drive was beautiful though, with yellow grassland and scrub brush spread before you, all the way to the rock walls that rise above you on two sides.

Even this road wasn’t bad at this time of year, though I could see it being difficult if it was wet.  It was the steepest drive we took and it had the sharpest turns.  This was also the longest route we attempted, by far.  It was fun, but we covered less than half of it (around 20 miles) and that took almost two hours.  This did appear to be the most difficult part of the trek.  According to the map, the rest of it looked flatter and easier (and some parts may have been roughly paved).  We did finally escape, through a blessed hole in the rock wall called Thanksgiving Gorge (I think I know why they give it that name!) just as daylight was waning.  We were rewarded with a herd of elk…and LOTS of cows! 😋

A dry, yellowed grass meadow with rock formations in the background. The sun angle is low and shadows are long.
Sunlight is waning on the Yampa Bench Road

Beautiful Canyons in the Colorado section of Dinosaur National Monument

Flaming Gorge Reservoir

On Sunday we took US 191 north of Vernal, Utah, to the Flaming Gorge Reservoir.  It was named for its vibrant, red cliffs that were cut by the Green River.  The gorge spans both northeastern Utah, and southeastern Wyoming, just to the north.  It is absolutely beautiful, and the dam that created the reservoir is pretty stunning, as well.

A lake sits between two rocky hillsides in a desert landscape
Flaming Gorge Reservoir
A large, concrete dam in a desert landscape
The Flaming Gorge Dam

Gates of Lodore

From the dam, we then continued north on Route 191, just across the Wyoming line, and picked up Brown’s Park Road.  This we took east, back into Colorado.  From here we followed signs to the Gates of Lodore, another INCREDIBLE canyon that was cut by the Green River.  It sits on the northern tip of the monument.  This route was a mixture of well-graded dirt and rough pavement, though any passenger car should be able to handle it, at least in good weather.

I was pronouncing this location like “Gates of Mordor”, from Lord of the Rings, but was quickly corrected by a local.  Apparently, it’s supposed to sound more like “Gates of la-DOOR”. 😂 

There’s an easy, and fairly short, hiking trail that leads to the mouth of the canyon, from the parking area.  Due to its sheer, rock walls, there is no access through this rocky cleft, except by watercraft on the river itself.

A river winds through a desert canyon. Tree-covered, steep, rocky walls line both sides of the canyon.
Gates of Ladore!

A river snakes through a desert landscape with yellow-grass meadows and scrub brush-covered hillsides

Crouse Canyon/Brown’s Park Scenic Backway

We returned back to Vernal by way of the Crouse Canyon/Brown’s Park Scenic Backway.  This is another route that cuts through a beautiful canyon, and then a meadowy area.

This road was one of the rougher routes we traveled on and was basically only one lane wide.  This was unexpected as it was listed as a scenic drive in one of the local tour brochures, and wasn’t suggested to be high-clearance.  Our truck handled it easily but had we known how rough it would be we would have aired the tires down, just for a smoother ride.  In good conditions, any SUV with a higher wheelbase should be able to handle it (we passed a CRV or two) but I wouldn’t suggest attempting it in a typical passenger car (just because there were some rocks and ruts that had to be navigated).  An Outback probably could have managed it, but we would have been extra cautious. 

The drive was BEAUTIFUL though, with the yellow and orange leaf colors set against the red rock of the canyon walls, which contrasted with the blue of the sky above.  Click here for a short video of it!

We returned home via US 40 east, through Craig, Steamboat Springs, and Rabbit Ears Pass.  This is the one portion of northern Colorado we hadn’t been to yet.

Related posts: Conquer Lengthy Trails in Small Portions; The Best Hidden Gems of Northern Colorado

From there we took Route 14 north to Walden, then headed north to Laramie, Wyoming, and back to the Black Hills.  FYI, this is a great way to avoid the traffic in the Denver area, and much of I-25, if you’re heading north from northern Colorado!  It offers some great views too!

You won’t find a better time to visit this park than Fall.  Tree colors are bright, crowds are light and temperatures are cool.  So the next time you’re looking for a good autumn vacation spot, think of the out-of-the-way Dinosaur National Monument!

Have you visited this incredible place?  Tell me about your favorite parts of it in the comments!

 

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A narrow river valley in a desert landscape as seen from above. Short trees are in the foreground while a thin, green river can be seen far below. Pin reads, "Dinosaur National Monument: the Colorado Side"

 

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Old Baldy: a Great Place for Fall Colors in the Black Hills

In this post, I review Old Baldy, a trail loop near Spearfish, South Dakota that the Trekkers frequent.

 

There is a great, under-appreciated place to view fall colors in the Black Hills, Old Baldy, near Spearfish, South Dakota!  While it’s beautiful in the fall, the Trekkers enjoy it throughout the year as it’s never crowded.

Where is the Old Baldy Trailhead?

The Old Baldy trailhead is on Tinton Road, about halfway between Spearfish and Lead.  You can get there from either town.

From Spearfish, the easiest way is to take Exit 8 off of I-90, for McGuigan Road.  Take this south to the T-intersection with Tinton Road, and then turn right towards the forest.  Take Tinton Road about 10 miles to the trailhead.

If you’re coming from Lead, take US 85 west (towards Wyoming) for about 18 miles out of Lead, until you reach the turnoff for Tinton Road.  Take Tinton Road about 18 miles to the trailhead.

The road is gravel, however, it is well-graded.  As long as you don’t mind your car getting dusty, any passenger vehicle can handle it under good conditions.  In the winter, though, it is rarely plowed past the Iron Creek Lake turnoff when coming from Spearfish.  A high-clearance, 4WD vehicle is often needed to drive this road under those conditions, and even then it is often impassable unless you’re on foot, skis, or are powered by a snowmobile.

I’m not sure if this area has been getting more snow in recent years (this part of the Hills receives some of the largest amounts of snow during the winter); or if the Forest Service just isn’t maintaining Tinton Road past the Iron Creek Lake turnoff; or if they’re intending it more for snowmobile usage.  But whatever the reason, the road has been almost impassible for much of the winter, lately.  One time, we got pretty stuck attempting to reach the trailhead (we were VERY fortunate we carry recovery gear).

What you will see on the Old Baldy Trail

This loop trail is around six miles in total length, with an additional spur to the Mt. Baldy summit that adds a little over 1.5 miles to the total hike.  There is a “lake” that is signed, though I use that term VERY loosely.  We’ve never actually seen any water in it.  It should be called “Green Lake” because it looks like a meadow!  There is a small stream that runs through the “lakebed”, but mostly you only see grass and cows near here. 😋

A word of warning, beware of the cows, as well as their “leavings”. 🤥   The National Forest leases this area to local ranchers, so you can find cows anywhere and everywhere near here during the summer.

A green meadow with trees in the background with a wooden sign that reads, "Baldy Lake"
The “lake” (yes, really!)
A muddy creek runs through a green meadow with trees in the background
Hey look, we found some water!

The trail winds through pine forests with aspen glens dispersed amongst them.  It also traverses the edges of a few meadows and offers spectacular views of the surrounding landscape.  This area is especially pretty in fall when the yellow of the aspen and green of the pine complement each other beautifully, especially as contrasted against the clear blue, Black Hills sky!

Besides the main loop, there is a spur of the Rimrock Trail that can be accessed from here, as well.  This side trail will take you to the rim of Spearfish Canyon.  These are all prime places to enjoy the fall colors the Northern Hills are known for, without having to deal with the crowds you’ll find in the Canyon below.

A brown-grass meadow and fence with hills covered in pine trees and yellow, fall-colored trees in the background
The trail options here are really just one loop (other than the spur to the Rimrock Trail).  If you go right at the fork, heading counterclockwise, you’ll hit the GORGEOUS aspen glen first,  traversing the only real switchbacks found on the trail on the downhill.

If you do choose this route, the return trip is a little steeper, but I think it’s easier.  There is more open space, so there is also more breeze if you’re warm.  The open areas also provide you with INCREDIBLE views of the surrounding mountains and prairie.  However, if it’s sunny in the summer, this area could be hotter as there is less shade…

Regardless of which fork you choose, the “lake” and the turnoff to the summit of the mountain are at the bottom of the hill.  You know what this means!  No matter which fork you pick, you have to climb back up the WHOLE return trip! 😛  

If you start off on the left branch of the trail, going clockwise, you’ll hit the more open area of the loop on your descent.  Facing this direction, you’ll actually be provided with more expansive views of the surrounding countryside.

Unfortunately, this will mean you have to face the “spirit-crushing switchbacks” (I HATE switchbacks!) through the aspen glen, on the way back up the hill.  Because the trees in this area are thicker, it is also more shaded during the summer months.  HOWEVER, the denser foliage also means there is less of a breeze…phew!  Decisions, decisions!

Either way the aspen glen, especially, is INCREDIBLY beautiful in the fall months, not to mention the surrounding hillsides that are ablaze with yellow from all the aspen trees.  The aspen glen is my favorite of the whole trail in the fall.

Author’s note:  the American Indians who originally gave the Black Hills their name called them this because the pine forests made the Hills look dark from afar.  In recent years, the pine trees have been decimated by pine beetles and some wildfires. Aspen trees grow EXTREMELY WELL in their wake.  One wonders if a few hundred years from now, a more appropriate name for these hills may be the Aspen Hills, or the Yellow Hills–the color all the aspens turn in the fall…

A view across hills covered in green, pine trees and yellow, fall-colored trees in the background
This view is from one of the lookout points on the western edge of the loop

These days, if you visit this location, you will see some extensive storm damage.  Multiple tornadoes actually went through here in recent summers!  That’s a rare occurrence in the Black Hills!

One of the storms was especially nerve-racking for me, as the Trekker Parental Units (and Extended Family) were staying at a rental house near Lead at the time. They were outside the tornado’s track–thankfully–but only by about a mile. 😮  Fortunately, the baseball-sized hail that the storm dropped missed them as well!  Helplessly watching that tempest on the radar, while I was sitting in the sunshine over an hour away, was enough to give me a few gray hairs!

When is the best time of year to visit the Old Baldy trail?

The trails are perfect for both summer and winter recreation IF you can reach them in the winter.  If Tinton Road is passable as far as the trailhead when there is snow on the ground, the actual site can be hard to find as the sign is often buried by snow.  Also, there is usually very little parking as the lane to the parking lot is not plowed.

So, you must make do with parking along the side of the road.  In the past, we have come here multiple times to snowshoe or ski. Unfortunately, we haven’t been able to reach the site the last several years.

The difficulty in accessing the trailhead during the winter months is really a shame because it is GORGEOUS under the cover of snow.  The sunbeams shine through the bare branches of the aspen trees while the pristine, white snow, and dark-brown bark, contrast perfectly with the dark green pine trees and blue sky.  Make sure to wear layers, as it can get pretty windy up here since it’s near the top of the mountain.

View through a snowy forest with leafless trees
This is a fun trail for mountain biking as well, heading downhill. 😋  Going back up can be a bit of a pain, especially if you ascend via the eastern leg of the loop, through the switchbacks.  Both hikers and bikers need to be watchful for each other as there are several blind curves and collisions can happen if the bikes round them too quickly.

Horses are also allowed on this trail.  It is imperative that bikers watch for these equines, who could shy and throw a rider, or hurt themselves (or the biker) if a bike came racing around a corner and startled them.

If you’re looking for a fine place to view fall colors in the Black Hills, and you’d like to avoid the usual crowds, check out Old Baldy!  You’ll be glad you did!

Have you ever tried this trail in any season?  Tell me about your experience in the comments!

 

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4 pictures: 1) Yellow-leafed and green trees cover a hillside; 2)A brown-grass meadow with fall-colored trees dotting it, all under a clear, blue sky; 3) A view across hills covered in green, pine trees and yellow, fall-colored trees in the background; 4) A green meadow with trees in the background with a wooden sign that reads, "Baldy Lake". Pin reads, "Old Baldy: A Great Place for Fall Colors in the Black Hills"

 

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Camping in the Bighorns

We try to camp in the Bighorns, in northeastern Wyoming, at least once a year!

 

The Trekkers have a tradition of camping in the Bighorns each Labor Day Weekend!  Puppers has been a trooper on our camping trips.  She enjoys riding in the truck (she doesn’t even mind the BUMPY, jarring journeys we’ve taken her down a few 4×4 roads…too much! 😉)  She can keep up with us on the hiking trails and she even handles the tents like a champ (though she needs a little assistance getting in and out of the rooftop tent).

You do have to wonder about people who drive 3+ hours to the wilderness, where they proceed to pee in a bucket and not shower for three days…and call that fun! 🤔😉😎

A rooftop tent is open on top of a trailer, a separate small tent and truck are behind. All in a woodland scene.
One of our camp setups

We finally caved and bought a privacy shelter for this trip, and we were SO glad we did.  It made life SO MUCH easier.  In the past we’ve used the vestibule that came with the rooftop tent, this worked ok, but even I couldn’t stand up straight in it (not to mention Mr. Trekker’s 6’4 frame).  This could be because we have the tent on the trailer rather than on top of the truck, the vestibule likely works better in that situation.  But the shelter worked great for changing, for a bathroom along with our Luggable Loo†, and for a shower using the solar shower.  It was so cool to look up at night and see the Milky Way shining over you while you were changing or “taking care of business”. 😇

The Bighorn Mountains

I know I’ve said this before, and I hate to sound like a broken record, 😇 but I LOVE the Bighorns.  I always forget we aren’t in the depths of the Colorado High Country when we visit there.  I love their stony summits, some still sporting spots of white leftovers from last winter’s snowpack, just above the treeline far below.

I always think of them as their own tiny island of mountains that rises out of the high prairie of northeastern Wyoming, but according to Wikipedia, they’re actually a spur of the Rockies separated from the main mountain chain by the Bighorn Basin.

A creek runs through a wetland area with trees and stony mountains towering in the background.Though this area is just as beautiful as the Rockies, it is FAR less crowded, which makes it so much more pleasant to visit. 😋  There are no lines of people hiking in the Bighorns like we’ve experienced in various places around Colorado.  Also, oftentimes, the lower-elevation plains may be baking in 90-degree weather, while it’s in the 60s-70s, and breezy, in the mountains!

It doesn’t hurt that, depending on which area you are heading to, the Bighorns are a shorter, 3 – 4-hour drive from the Black Hills, rather than the 6 – 8+ hours required to reach the mountains in Colorado ( and that’s just the Front Range, in the east-central portion of the state).  You will still have to drive through rural Wyoming whether you’re going to Colorado or the Bighorns.  However, to reach the mountains in Wyoming, you drive on I-90 the whole way.  It’s a little easier if weather is bad, and you don’t have as much trouble with the Wyoming drivers who like to pass on two-lane roads leaving little room for oncoming cars…(ahem!🤬🤯) ( Of course, all that being said, no one should visit here, ever, it’s just a terrible place to be. 😮😇🙃)

The Bighorns aren’t to be trifled with though.  These mountains are rugged, with little accommodations by way of gas, food, and supplies.  Small towns, such as Buffalo, Ten Sleep, Greybull, and Sheridan dot the area.  But these are few and far between (not to mention pretty tiny, by the standards of “normal” people who aren’t used to the small settlements that are common in the West). 😉  This is a national forest area, not a national park, so even camping accommodations are rustic, rarely offering more than potable water and a pit toilet (and those are the fancy ones)! 😮  So, if you’re looking to visit this area, be prepared to be self-sufficient.  The views will make it worth the trial, though!

The night sky in the Bighorns

There isn’t a lot of light pollution in the Bighorns, so on clear nights, you are treated to an INCREDIBLE light show!  Once the sun sets, the stars and planets come out in abundance.  My whole life, I’ve never seen a night sky that is comparable to what you find in the crisp coolness of the high mountains.  The sky actually looks like it has the measles, as there is almost a rash of stars that covers it.  The cloudy ribbon of the Milky Way is often clearly visible as it stretches across the expanse of darkness.  You can almost sense it glowing from within.  It is truly an incredible sight.

Silent Night in the high mountains

An instrument shows an altitude reading of 7500 feetOur campsite was at about 7500 feet on this visit (oftentimes we stay much higher, closer to 9000-10,000 feet).  We’ve noticed something odd at these high altitudes that we have also experienced in Colorado’s High Country.  There is a distinct lack of “night sounds”.  You don’t hear the chirping of crickets or croaking of frogs in that thinner air, even on warmer nights, and I don’t know why.  Nights tend to be pretty cool in those places, so it may be due to this, or just that there is a very short season where the night air would even be warm enough for the creatures to survive.  But whatever the reason, when we’re up so high I do miss the “chirping” sounds of a summer night.

Dispersed camping in the Bighorn National Forest

Morning on a meadow ringed by trees. The sun is just coming up and is shinning on the mountains in the background.Sometimes when we head out we Disperse Camp.  This is also known as “dry camping”, where you just set up your camp somewhere in the national forest, outside of an established campground.  We tried this for the first time in Colorado, at both State Forest State Park and near Crested Butte.  On both occasions, we did stay at an actual, numbered campsite, it was just away from any campground and we weren’t able to see our neighbors.

On this trip, there were no numbered sites, but they did request that you stay at an already established campsite (designated by fire rings).  I have never experienced such a busy weekend in the Bighorns!  We stayed near Circle Park (there are a lot of “parks” in this region, they are basically just large, meadowy areas amongst the forests).  It was a lovely site with views of the surrounding mountains, but we could see three other campsites from ours (one had a large group in it).  We could hear even more campers, just on the other side of the copse of trees we were camped near.  Next time, we’ll have to try going even farther out if we hope to have more privacy! 😉

Moose in the Bighorns!

Morning in the meadow. A bull moose can be seen at a distance in the grass. The background is forest with the red, morning sun shining on the mountains in the far background.
Ladies and gentlemen, Martin the Moose!

I wasn’t sure if we’d see any moose on this trip since we were sticking mainly to the southern portion of the Bighorns and I wasn’t aware of any waterways running near our campsite (which moose favor).  We lucked out though.  It only happened one time, but at about 6:30 one morning, as the Pup and I were enjoying her “morning constitutional”, I spotted Martin the Bull Moose sauntering through the “park”, down the hill from our campsite!  SUCCESS!!!  Puppers wasn’t sure what to make of that LARGE, funny-looking thing!

Hiking Trails

Circle Park Trail:
A small lake, surrounded by forest
Sherd Lake

We did this same trail on our first trip to the Bighorns, several years ago, in October.  It’s a nice hike, fairly wide and graded, and not terribly steep (though it is quite rocky in several places).  We walked to Sherd Lake, which is absolutely GORGEOUS!  There are views of several nearby mountains, such as Bighorn and Darton Peaks, from here.  This trail is around four miles total, so it’s perfect for a day hike (especially with a not-quite-full-stamina, juvenile, canine friend). 🐶

The trail continues on to several other lakes from there.  It also connects with an 8-mile loop that snakes around the nearby mountain peaks, if you’re looking for a lengthy hike (or a good backpacking trip). 

Maybelle Lake Trail (off Forest Road 430):

A grassy meadow with large rocks sprinkled about, bordered by forestThis hike was deceptively tough.  It’s only about three miles in total length, but it’s overgrown in many spots, very rocky and there are lots of downed trees.  We actually lost the trail several times and had to root around to locate it again.  Other parts of it are PERFECT though.  They feature a flat, graded path through a moist, pine forest, that is surrounded on both sides by a green carpet of ferns, moss, and soft undergrowth.  It almost felt like hiking in the cool rainforests of the Pacific Northwest.  It was such an idyllic sight!

The other difficulty is in reaching this trail.  You have to drive about 45 minutes (one way) on a rugged, 4×4 road to get to the trailhead.  We had done this route several years ago, so we knew what to expect, but this would NOT be appropriate for a normal car, or even just a high clearance vehicle.  If you don’t have a 4×4, with gear intended for off-road purposes, you should NOT attempt this road. (As an example, after trying this route a few years ago, we decided skid plates would be an important addition to the truck.)  After completing the road on this adventure, there is some paint hanging from the skid plates in a few spots (we sure were glad they were there!) 😋

Small lake with rocky, tree-covered mountain peaks in the background
Maybelle Lake

Tensleep Canyon

I’ve mentioned this canyon before, but this is one of the most beautiful places in the Bighorns.  If you are anywhere near this national forest and you have the chance to drive the canyon, you absolutely MUST put it on your list.  It is NOT to be missed.  This is one of our favorite areas in this national forest, and we try to enjoy it whenever we’re nearby.

The canyon is surrounded by arid, rocky cliffs on both sides, and is located on the southwest side of the Bighorn mountains.  One great thing about it is that EVERYONE can experience it.  US 16 is the main road that runs through the middle of the canyon.  It’s an easy-to-drive, paved byway.

For the best views, I would travel down the canyon, from east to west, on Route 435.  This is actually a dirt road that runs parallel to US 16 on the canyon’s southern side.  It’s a very well-graded route though, so as long as you don’t mind your car getting a little dusty, any 2WD vehicle can handle it in good weather (beware, the road may be impassable during snowy or muddy conditions. The road is also closed to vehicles November – June).

It’s a two-way road, but it’s fairly narrow, so take your time and be cautious.  There is room to pass a vehicle coming the other way but both drivers need to be aware as the lane gets tight.

Related posts:  Lake Helen, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming; 4 Don’t Miss Sites in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming; West Tensleep Trail, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming;  Bighorn Medicine Wheel in Wyoming

This route provides better views down the length of the canyon into the dry expanse of Bighorn Basin, that opens up between the western slopes of the Bighorns and the eastern slopes of the Absarokas (near Yellowstone National Park).  While the Bighorns provide cooler conditions, even on the hottest days of the summer, the Basin sits on a high prairie that lies in the rain shadow of the larger mountains, to the west, and bakes under the heat waves of the summer sun.

On your return trip up the canyon, take the paved, US 16 for incredible views of the dun-colored rock and sparse, short, green trees and bushes that comprise the canyon walls.  They stand out in contrast to the deep blue of the sky above.  These views are SO beautiful!

You aren’t very likely to see moose in this area, it’s too dry and hot for the vittles they enjoy dining on.  The northern side of the Bighorns, near routes like US 14 and 14A, are prime spots for spotting these ungulates.

For the best light, it’s best to drive up the canyon, west to east, in the afternoon when the sun is at your back!  Here is a link to a video I made of our drive up the canyon.

We were glad to enjoy another successful, Labor Day, camping trip to the Bighorns.  We really enjoy returning to this area year after year.  There are so many things to see here, it can’t all be done in one weekend!

Have you hiked to Sherd or Maybelle Lakes?  What did you think of the trails?  Tell me about your experiences in the comments!

 

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Canoeing at Deerfield Lake

In this post, I review one of our favorite canoeing sites, Deerfield Lake, in the Black Hills of South Dakota.

canoe on a lake's shoreDeerfield Lake is one of the Trekkers’ favorite spots for canoeing in the Black Hills (another is Jenney Gulch, on Pactola Lake.)  This site is the terminus for the lengthy Deerfield Trail, that I’ve mentioned in another post.  There are many things to enjoy about this part of the Black Hills.  It’s a little more remote, so it does take a little longer to reach, but it’s also higher in elevation so it tends to be cooler.  In the winter, this may not be as pleasant, but in the summer, when you are roasting in Rapid City, you can head to the Deerfield area for a less oppressively warm, far more enjoyable day.

Where in the Black Hills is Deerfield Reservoir?

This body of water is easy to reach, just take Deerfield Road west, from Hill City, for about 15 miles.  You drive right past it so you can’t miss it! 🙃

What fun things can you do at Deerfield Lake?

a lake view

a lake with mountain backdropThere is a hiking trail, that circumvents the lake, which is also good for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing in the colder months.  There are several campgrounds available around the lake, as well.  You should be aware these are National Forest campgrounds, which we always love, but they usually have very sparse accommodations.  Potable water and vault toilets are about all you can expect at these campsites (though they are usually quiet and some spots have WONDERFUL views).  This is also one of our favorite areas for acquiring Christmas trees in the Black Hills if you know where to look…

What makes Deerfield Reservoir so great?

One of the best things about this lake is that it is fairly large in size (comparable to Sheridan Lake farther to the east) but it has a no-wake rule.  So, while people can bring motorized boats if they wish (and some do, to fish) they aren’t allowed to go very fast.  This regulation makes Deerfield Reservoir an opportune site for the slower, water sports such as canoeing, kayaking, and paddle-boarding.

We are especially thankful for the peacefulness of this place as there was a measure put forth to the State Legislature to drop the no-wake rule.  This would have allowed boats to travel at wake-speed which would likely have increased the frequency and amount of larger boats using the lake.  Fortunately, after a STRONG public outcry from locals, it was defeated.  We were SO glad!  This is truly one of the best places to canoe or kayak in the Black Hills (in my opinion).  There are other nice lakes around Custer State Park, but they aren’t nearly as large.  They don’t offer as nice of views of the surrounding mountains either. (With all that being said, this is a horrible place to visit and everyone should stay away! 😮😉)

More pictures of our canoe day are below, courtesy of Mr. Trekker!

a woman canoeing on a lake

 

Two canoe paddles against a lake shoreline backdrop
Just two canoe paddles, in love! 😉

With all this talk of canoeing, I would be remiss not to mention the rack system that we use to safely transport our mighty vessel. 😉   We really like the Yakima KeelOver Rooftop Canoe Rack†.  It installs INCREDIBLY easily–and quickly–on the luggage rack on top of your vehicle.  It also both protects the canoe from damage and holds it in place very well.  Basically, the way it is designed, there are four separate, cushioned feet that attach to the already-installed luggage rack.  If the canoe starts to slide to the left or the right, it is held in place by the feet on the opposite side.  The kit also comes with tie-down straps that are used side-to-side and front-to-back to strap the canoe to the vehicle.  It should be noted that this system is specifically intended for canoes only. 

The next time you’re looking to escape the heat of a summer day in Rapid City, check out Deerfield Lake.  It makes for a quiet retreat from the hustle and bustle of the busier, tourist towns, and offers scenic views as well.  Go out and enjoy it!

Have you canoed at Deerfield Lake? Tell me about your experience in the comments!

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Looking for one of the best canoeing sites in the Black Hills? Read on for my review of Deerfield Lake, in Western South Dakota.

 

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Going to the Sun Road at Glacier National Park

In this post, I review Going to the Sun Road at Glacier National Park.

 

Author’s Note: Since we visited Glacier in 2016, the Park Service has implemented a complex, ticket system for visiting the park in the summer. To be honest, I can’t make much sense of it as it involves multiple tickets being required to enjoy various activities around the park. For more information on this system, visit the park website and/or contact the park office. 

While on our visit to Glacier National Park, we drove the famed Going to the Sun Road.  We also learned some tips to keep in mind when traversing rural Montana.

Montana

If you’ve never been there, Montana is a HUGE state.  It takes 8+ hours to cross it when traveling 80 mph (the posted speed limit) and that’s on the Interstate!  It’s absolutely beautiful though!  I never realized how many mountains crisscross their way through the rolling prairies of that state. 
Montana DOT could do with some better signage.  Several times we had to turn around and retrace our steps to find the correct turn–either due to a complete lack of, or unclear, signage.  Frequently there would be large signs pointing the way when coming from one direction; and little to no signage when coming from the other.

It was also, often difficult to decipher which “turn ahead” was the right one–one time it would be the turn DIRECTLY after the sign, while others it would be three turns later after passing numerous side streets. 😛 

Information on local services was also lacking.  We limped the car into Missoula the first night, as we failed to realize how far the distance would be on the interstate between reliable gas opportunities–fortunately, gravity was on our side as a steep grade downhill ushers you into town and the CRV gets good gas mileage!

At least South Dakota provides some warning in these situations with billboards containing messages such as “gas now or gas can later”. 

Montana also has a habit of closing rest stops with little or no warning which is especially problematic when each rest stop can be more than 50 miles apart!

Glacier National Park

Glacier National Park is absolutely BEAU-tiful, as is the surrounding area!  It wasn’t nearly as crowded with visitors as Yellowstone–though as we learned later, being there at the end of June put us at just the beginning of the very short, summer season.  Several hiking trails in the higher elevations were still closed due to snow hazards (and this is normal!) 

Part of the reason it isn’t nearly as crowded as other national parks is that it is, quite literally, in the middle of nowhere.  West Glacier (the western terminus) is almost 140 miles from I-90.  It took us over three hours to drive that distance on winding, mountain roads, sometimes traveling 15 mph lower than the posted speed limit while following large RVs.  Likewise, the other side of the park, St. Mary (the eastern terminus) is almost 90 miles from I-15. 

We didn’t camp on this trip.  However, if you’re looking for some great info on camping at Glacier National Park, click here!

The scenery found on all of these drives is incredible though.  I actually recommend arriving at the park from the east side (driving up through the prairie) as you’ll have a commanding view of the Rockies for a much larger portion of the drive.  If you come into the park from the west, the overall drive is prettier–complete with mountain lakes and twisting curves–but the mountain views are largely obscured by trees and other, smaller hills. 

Large tree-covered mountainsides with bits of snow on their rocky tops, all under a clear blue sky. A river runs through the valley below.
Isn’t this gorgeous?!

Limited Services in Northwest Montana

We were also surprised at the limited access to everyday services of this high-tourist area.  Both West Glacier and St. Mary’s appeared to be reasonably sized towns based on the map (and their proximity to the park)–and they are decently-sized as towns in Northwest Montana are concerned–but they lack many basic services.

I personally required some OTC medication thanks to the side effects of antibiotics, and we had to travel an hour out of our way to finally locate a pharmacy to acquire it (a feat that would have been accomplished in about five minutes in most other rural parts of the country).  So something that should have been nothing more than a temporary annoyance ended up causing a real hindrance to the enjoyment of the trip. 

Having never been to the area before, my early online research made St. Mary appear to be far more commercialized than West Glacier; the map indicated this as well…it wasn’t.  St. Mary consisted mainly of one gas station/small supermarket/restaurant/gift shop and a smattering of campgrounds and roadside cafes.

We returned to this area several years later. Below are the posts relating to that trip!:

Ghost Towns in Southwestern Montana
6 Don’t Miss Places for your Western Montana Road Trip


West Glacier at least had two separate gas stations and several restaurants/shops within walking–or a short driving–distance.  I don’t say these things to complain, you are in the wilderness after all, but more as a caution for preparedness.

Going to the Sun Road

Glacier National Park consists largely of the east and west termini, and a road connecting the two, through the mountain passes (Going to the Sun Road) that’s only open about four months of the year.  The rest of the year it’s buried under up to 30 feet of snow (near Logan Pass) and is frequently plagued by avalanches.

While the two towns are only 50 miles apart it can easily take three hours or more to cross the divide (due to other drivers, the slow speed limit forced by sharp turns and steep inclines, and frequent stops at the many lookouts along the way.) 

It’s an absolutely awe-inspiring view though, and I highly recommend taking your time to fully enjoy your surroundings…and possibly stop for a picnic lunch!

Stop at the turnouts and enjoy the roar of the water filtering up through the canyon, as well as the smell of the sweet, clear mountain breezes.  Notice the contrasts in color of the deep grey or brown/red rock and the blindingly white snowfields of the higher elevations, that all stand out against the vibrant green foliage of the lower altitudes.  To top it off the dome of the sapphire blue sky crowns it all (this area is called the Crown of the Continent!)

A green meadow with a snow field in the foreground. Large, rocky mountains in the background.
The view from Logan Pass

Large, rocky mountain looming over shorter, grass and tree-covered mountains, all under a blue sky dotted with white, puffy clouds.While not as crowded as other parks we’ve been to, there were still plenty of visitors milling about.  Be sure to be watchful for people (and wildlife) that may appear before you around a sharp turn with little or no warning.  There are also many road bikers who must be carefully passed in addition to negotiating the sharp curves.

For someone who is afraid of heights, the trip can be quite anxiety-provoking, especially if traveling west to east (on the outside lane) and if you’re the passenger.  Frequently along the route, the only thing separating you from precipitous drops of 1000 feet or more is a low stone wall! (This also reminded us of Route 550 in Colorado, the Million Dollar Highway!)

I also recommend traveling the road several times, at different times of day, as the light changes the views greatly.  The second time we drove the road was in the evening with the sun at a lower angle, and not only were the colors more vibrant, but subtler details (such as smaller waterfalls) stood out in greater contrast.  I mentioned earlier that we unintentionally arrived early in the busy season.  While this assisted us in beating the crowds, it also had the unintended effect of potentially providing more beautiful views.  We were told by locals that it had been unusually rainy as of late and this, along with late-season snow/glacier melt, contributed to some incredible waterfalls cascading down the steep mountain walls into the canyon.  As the season wanes these falls tend to dry up and become merely trickles.

Related posts:  5 Things you Don’t Want to Miss at Glacier National Park; Swiftcurrent Trail at Glacier National Park and 5 Other “Don’t Miss” Sites!; Gunsight Pass Trail, Glacier National Park; Glacier National Park: Hiking the Apgar Lookout Trail

Are the glaciers melting in Glacier National Park?

Many scientists believe the park will be completely glacier-free within the next 50 years due to warming temperatures.  I hope they are wrong about this as it will have profound effects on the various ecosystems that comprise the park.

You’ll notice as you traverse the road that these systems vary from arid, high plains on the eastern side…to alpine tundra at Logan Pass…to the temperate rainforest at the lower elevations on the western side of the park.  Many of the lakes are fed by glacial springs and/or snowmelt from the long winters.  If these glaciers dry up and/or less snow accumulates in the winter months to feed the lakes, it’s possible they may dry up (or their water levels will significantly lessen) as well.  This will hinder the survivability of the vast array of flora and fauna that make up these ecosystems.

There is already evidence that the warmer temperatures are causing an increase in foliage and subsequent treeline which impedes on the tundra.  Many alpine plants grow only in tundra regions and could become endangered/extinct if these consequences are borne out to their fullest extent.  This could have far-reaching effects that can’t even be fully calculated at this time.

Below is a picture from the Going to the Sun Road.  This was taken near Logan Pass, the highest point on the road, at around 9,000 feet.  Notice the narrow brick wall at the bottom separating the car from the dropoff!

 View from a rocky wall overlooking a vista of a mountain valley with tall tree and snow-covered mountains on both sides, all under a clear, blue sky.

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This is one of the most beautiful drives I have ever enjoyed.  Everyone should have Glacier National Park on their Bucket List!

Have you ridden on the Going to the Sun Road?  How was your experience?  Tell me about it in the comments!

 

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Large, rocky mountain looming over shorter, grass and tree-covered mountains, all under a blue sky dotted with white, puffy clouds. Pin reads, "Going to the Sun Road: Glacier National Park."

 

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5 Things you Don’t Want to Miss at Glacier National Park

In this post I describe some of the highlights of our trip to Glacier National Park, in 2016!


Author’s Note: Since we visited Glacier in 2016, the Park Service has implemented a complex, ticket system for visiting the park in the summer. To be honest, I can’t make much sense of it as it involves multiple tickets being required to enjoy various activities around the park. For more information on this system, visit the park website and/or contact the park office. 

Glacier National Park is one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. The views there are comparable to the ones I saw in the Andes Mountains of Peru when I visited there in 2001.  The Trekkers had an incredible time visiting Glacier (and hope to return someday).  Most people are aware of the park’s acclaimed, Going to the Sun Road, but there are other fun things to do, as well!  In this post, I have outlined 5 not-to-miss sights to see on your trip to the park.

Not-to-Miss Things to See at Glacier National Park

Polebridge, Montana

The tiny town of Polebridge sits about 25 miles north of the park, and only around 15 miles south of the Canadian border.  It is located on North Fork Road.

When I say “tiny”, that is not an exaggeration!   Its main draw is the Mercantile (a historic, general store that is known for its DELICIOUS homemade pastries, the Trekkers especially recommend the huckleberry bear claws!).  The tiny community also consists of a saloon where we had lunch (I highly recommend the homemade potato wedges and ranch dressing) and a few cabins available for rent…and that’s it! 😮 

This little village is the starting point for several hiking trails in the area and there are numerous lakes nearby.

An old storefront with "Polebridge Mercantile" on the front and cars sitting out front
Polebridge Mercantile

Bowman Lake

We visited Bowman Lake and hiked a portion of the Bowman Lake Trail there.

The trail was a simple walk through the woods, on a smooth trail, with little to no elevation gain.  It wasn’t crowded, though we did see several other hikers.  Be watchful for bears in this area–as well as throughout the entire park.  We did not see any but did see evidence that they had been nearby in the past.

The Bowman Lake Trail could be made into a full-day excursion to the end of the lake and back (the lake is six miles long) or enjoyed as a multi-day backpacking trip if one wished to take advantage of all the trails that connect to it.

With the gorgeous views afforded here of the mountains and their reflections on the aquamarine water, this is one of the most picturesque places I have ever seen.

Mountain vista across a flat lake with tree-covered, rocky and snow-speckled mountains towering on both sides.
Bowman Lake, the picture does not do the color of the water justice

The Canadian Border

Being that we were so close to the Canadian border we decided we HAD to drive up and say “hello” to our friendly neighbors to the north.  We knew there used to be a border crossing in this area but that it had been closed for many years.  We were expecting some sort of obvious signage indicating the divide between the two countries, a fence preventing entry, something…we were in for a bit of a surprise…

You reach the border by traveling north from Polebridge on a narrow dirt road.  Drive carefully and be watchful as there are sharp turns.  Wildlife–and the few human inhabitants of that desolate region–may be seen on the road, as well.

We encountered a very friendly couple biking with their three dogs.  They encouraged us to check out the border though we thought they were “pulling the tourists’ leg” when they described what we’d find…they weren’t. 

You will know you’ve reached the border when…the road ends…at a gate that looks like something that will close a city park for the winter! 😮  There is also a SMALL sign that reads “no admittance to Canada” and a trench about two feet wide and a foot deep–that you can walk across–that spans the border as far as the eye can see in both directions.  You see a clear line cut through the forest that stretches for miles and continues up the mountains to the east and to the west.

There is also an obelisk that marks both countries and commemorates one of the longest international borders that has been held peacefully, for one of the longest time spans in history.  There is no fence (don’t tell Trump! 😮), though there are security cameras.  We also saw border agents patrolling the area, so I would strongly encourage you to be respectful of the laws of both countries.  Pictures are allowed, but even if you have a passport, this is not an open border crossing.

*I had a bit of a philosophical epiphany while observing the border.  Humans are not allowed to cross freely, but as there is no fence, the animals cross back and forth completely unhindered.  The same forests and mountains reside on both sides of the border and were it not artificially maintained by human hands, one would not know when it had been crossed.  It gives you pause regarding man’s futile attempts to divide humanity based on imaginary lines.  If the animals and trees don’t care which side of a line drawn on a map that they (and their fellow forest inhabitants) reside…should we?

A simple, metal gate over a dirt lane in front of an old barn and trees
The Canadian Border…seriously, that was it.
A wide path through the woods runs to tall mountains on the horizon
The Canadian Border

The pillar shown below marks both countries:

Metal pillar with "United States" written on it Metal pillar with "United States" written on it

Goat Lick Overlook

This is a very neat area located directly off of US 2, on the southern edge of the park, about halfway between West Glacier and East Glacier (this is one of those areas of lousy signage I mentioned in a previous post).  There is a large sign announcing the overlook from the west, and nothing from the east, so be watchful if coming from that direction. 

The Overlook is exactly as the name suggests–it is a canyon where the wild, mountain goats come to lick minerals that seep from the rocks.  We saw a herd of close to 20 goats, complete with adults and babies, scampering with carefree vigor–you could hear them calling to each other from quite a distance. 

Most of the goats stayed on the other side of the canyon, but one mother and baby were camped out very near our location.  These animals are usually fairly harmless, but please, always remember they are wild.  They should be treated with respect and given space.  If they act in any way uncomfortable by your presence, you are too close!  MOVE BACK!  It should always be assumed that any animal (especially a parent protecting a baby) may attack with force, at any time, if they feel threatened.

Related posts: Swiftcurrent Trail at Glacier National Park and 5 Other “Don’t Miss” Sites!; Gunsight Pass Trail, Glacier National Park; Glacier National Park: Hiking the Apgar Lookout Trail

Sunset on Lake McDonald

Our hotel was only a five-minute drive outside the border of the park and only about 10 minutes from the largest lake at Glacier National Park, Lake McDonald.  Every night we enjoyed the sunset on the shores of the lake, in the tiny community of Apgar.

The view faces northeast so you won’t see the actual sun drop below the western mountains.  However, you will see the play of shadows and alpenglow on the mountains to the east and can see their reflection in the lake water (if it’s calm.)  One night we were lucky enough to be able to watch lightning from far-off storms, in the clouds towering over the mountains, in addition to the beautiful sunset.  In addition to the picturesque sunsets, I highly recommend stopping for ice cream at one of Apgar’s several shops before heading to the lake!

Another important note, none of the lodges or motels inside the park or near its entrances have TVs.  This is done intentionally to help preserve the surroundings in a rustic manner.  It was a bit like taking a step back in time and we found it incredibly enjoyable!  People left their rooms at night and gathered in parks and along the lakeside; eating ice cream, skipping rocks, and conversing with each other.  There isn’t much cell service in this area either, so you’re forced to disconnect a bit and commune with nature (or *gasp!*, actually talk to the person next to you! 😮😉)  It catered to a relaxed, communal atmosphere.

Every night a family of ducks would swim by.  They were unique in that they would dive under the water, and remain submerged for tens of seconds, before popping back to the surface quite a distance from where they went under.  The ducklings were especially entertaining to watch.  They would build up speed by quickly skimming the water with their wings–almost to the point of taking flight–before diving below the surface. 

Sunset photo of a flat-water lake with the dark silhouettes of the surrounding mountains and sunset colors in the clouds reflecting in the water
Sunset on Lake McDonald

Aqua-colored Water

The waters in the park (the rivers and lakes) are crystal clear (and COLD!) and tinged with an aqua hue.  This comes from the glaciers that feed them.  I’ve seen pictures of this phenomenon before but had never seen it in person.  It’s one of the most beautiful, difficult-to-describe colors I have ever seen!  One wonders if the glaciers melt, how it will affect this unique quality of the park?

Panoramic view of a flat-water lake reflecting the tree-covered and rocky mountains surrounding it, all under a clear, blue sky.

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Glacier National Park truly offers some of the most incredible scenery I have ever seen.  I strongly encourage you to put it on your bucket list.

If you have been to Glacier, what were your favorite parts?  Let me know in the comments!

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4 pictures: 1) Mountain vista of towering tree-covered, rocky and snow-speckled mountains; 2) An old storefront with "Polebridge Mercantile" on the front and cars sitting out front; 3) Sunset picture of a low river with a sand bar; 4) A wide path through the woods runs to tall mountains on the horizon. Pin reads, "Glacier National Park, 5 Things Not To Miss"

 

 

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Hiking Devils Tower

Devils Tower, in nearby Wyoming, is worth the time it takes to visit. In this post, I review the hiking trails that help you enjoy the site, as well as its history and some unusual legends that surround this other-worldly monolith.

 

As it holds the title of the nation’s First National Monument (thank you Teddy Roosevelt!), Devils Tower should be on your bucket list!  Several different hiking trails offer beautiful views as the site rises over the surrounding valley floor.  You’ll find yourself surrounded by yellow rock layers that stand out in contrast to the red layers of the Spearfish Formation, while the gorgeous Wyoming countryside spreads out before you like a mottled quilt.

As it holds the title of the nation’s first National Monument (thank you Teddy Roosevelt!), Devil’s Tower should be on your bucket list!  You’ll find several different hiking trails throughout the park, of varying lengths and difficulties.  Beautiful views are available from all the trails as the tower rises above the surrounding valley floor.  Below you, the gorgeous Wyoming countryside spreads out before you like a mottled quilt. The yellowed rock layers that surround you stand out in contrast to the red cliffs of the Spearfish Formatio

Watch out for rattlesnakes in this area during the warmer months. You won’t usually find them on the well-traveled paths–though they will, occasionally, seek out the warmer blacktop in the mornings or evenings.  However, you may come upon them in the grass if you wander off-trail, or if you are hiking some of the more rugged, grassier routes.

If you visit the Visitor’s Center, you can see views of the top of the Tower. Interestingly enough, there is actually grass up there!  It offers a nice place for the climbers to relax and take a break before they trek back down.

Snakes have even been found on the summit, though naturalists aren’t quite sure how they got there.  It has been theorized that they may have been dropped by birds that were planning to make a meal of them.  While this meant good fortune for the snake, it also meant an empty tummy for the bird. 😳

Devils Tower Hikes:

All of the hiking trails at Devils Tower are worth checking out and can be enjoyed by those with a variety of hiking expertise.  You should be aware, there isn’t a lot of shade available on any of the routes.  While this makes for a hot trek in the warmer months, the good news is you’re in Wyoming, so there is almost ALWAYS at least a slight breeze! 😉

The Tower Trail:

This is the main trail that traverses the base of the tower.  At a little over a mile in length, it is paved or graded the entire way and offers benches for resting.  This route should be accessible for most people, just watch out for the occasional root.  Bring binoculars and watch for climbers on the monolith!

South Side and Valley View Trails:

Both of these are side trails that connect to the Red Beds Trail and add an additional half mile to that route.  They are shorter and take you into the valley that skirts the south side of the tower (imagine that!) 😝  They wind through a prairie dog town that is also accessible from the road.  The furry little critters are cute, but stay back!  DO NOT FEED THEM!  Their fleas carry Plague (yes, THAT plague). 😝

The Joyner Trail:

This trek is a 1.5-mile loop that covers mostly the grassland north of the tower.  It also includes a connector to the Red Beds Trail if you choose to use it.  Its trailhead is found in a different location on the north side of the park, which also makes a prime lunch spot as it offers one of the most dramatic shots of the monolith (see below):

A large, rock monolith rises above the trees and brown, prairie grass into the cloudy, blue sky.

Red Beds Trail:

This is our favorite hike at Devils Tower!  At almost three total miles in length, this loop is the longest and most strenuous of all the trails.  You can take it either direction, though both will start by heading downhill to about the halfway point and then will return uphill.  So, while you think it’s easy at first, remember, it’s uphill ALL the way back! 😉 

While you won’t have as good of views of the tower from this route, it tends to be far less busy and it offers more views of the surrounding landscape.  It also takes you through different ecosystems including the nearby grassland and the dry, red rock bed–hence the name–of the Spearfish Formation.

Below are some of the scenic views available from the Red Beds Trail:

View up a hill covered in brown grass and sparse, pine trees. A tall, rock monolith rises from behind the crest of the hill.

View from the bottom of a brown-grass and sparse, pine tree-covered hill. A tall, rock monolith rises from behind the crest of the hill.
This route does offer a few nice views of the tower!

A muddy river snakes through brown-grass and pine tree-covered banks.
The Cheyenne River

A red rock wall spreads to the distance. Pine and brown-grass-covered hills are in the foreground.
You can see why they call it the Red Beds Trail!

Pine tree-covered hills in the fore and far background. A brown grass valley sits in between them.
The surrounding valley
View from between two pine trees of pine tree-covered hills with two rocky mountains rising above them in the far background.

How was Devils Tower Formed?

There are several explanations for how the tower came to be:

The “boring” scientific explanation 😉:

There are various theories that explain the creation of the Tower, but the most accepted one is that, back when the Earth was young, this was once a volcanic plug that allowed lava to escape to the surface.  The rock that formed around the plug was harder and of a different type than the surrounding rock.  In later years, this softer rock eroded, leaving the plug behind.  

But enough with “provable facts”, let’s move on to the far more interesting legends. 😁

American Indian legends:

The legends vary by tribe, but most feature young children being chased by a large bear.  The children usually climb on a rock to escape the bear and pray for help.  The Great Spirit causes the rock to grow so the children are transported out of the bear’s reach.  As the bear tries to climb the rock and falls, his claws leave large gashes in the rock (this explains the igneous columns).

Several of the legends state the children are girls who eventually turned into the Seven Sisters star constellation.  One Lakota Sioux legend states the bear grows tired, wanders away to the land that is now South Dakota, and eventually falls asleep.  He then turns into Bear Butte, a sister volcanic plug found in the northern Black Hills.  

Both of these sites are considered sacred by numerous American Indian tribes.  It is common to see prayer bundles at either location and sometimes, people can be observed practicing ceremonies there. These locales are occasionally closed to visitors when certain tribal events are occurring.  Please respect any religious observances you note and refrain from touching or moving them.  We are truly visitors to these sacred areas and should respect them as such. 

“I’m not saying it’s aliens…”

Then there’s the “other” explanation…when in doubt, always assume it’s the aliens! 👽  

Some people may have never heard of one of Steven Spielberg’s classics from the 1970’s–and one of Richard Dreyfuss’ first big movies–Close Encounters of the Third Kind.  This film was old when I watched it as a kid (and we don’t need to discuss how long ago THAT was! 😝).  It’s always been one of my favorites, though I may be a little biased as a large portion of the movie takes place in my home state of Indiana. 😉 

Devils Tower features heavily into the plot of the film, so you can imagine how excited I was to learn it was nearby when we moved to the Black Hills.  The movie is relatively kid-friendly, aside from one (in my opinion) unnecessarily, frightening scene.  The aliens are more akin to those found in ET than Independence Day. 😉  

I STRONGLY recommend you check out the movie after visiting the tower, especially the Director’s Cut with all the deleted scenes.  The Special Edition version is actually my favorite, as it is the only one to include the fabled “Mothership Scene” at the end.  While Spielberg later regretted bowing to the film studio’s pressure and adding this scene in, it was always one of my favorites.  Think about the special effects that were required to make this scene and how few of them would have been available to Spielberg in the ’70s.  This was well before computer effects kiddos! 😳  And yes, once you hear it, that theme music will be an earworm that will drive you INSANE! 😝

Where is Devils Tower?

 The tower is pretty easy to reach from the Black Hills.  The directions are simple: drive west on I-90; follow the signs. 😉 

Driving through beautiful Wyoming

Though it does take a couple of hours, part of the reason we enjoy this trip so much is the drive (I’ve mentioned before how much I enjoy long drives through the countryside).  There are a couple of different routes you can take…

We like to form a loop where we take I-90 out (the quick way) to Sundance, get off on US 14 North, and take that to Route 24 North.  When we leave the site, we continue on Route 24 to the north (the scenic route) and take that all the way back to Belle Fourche, SD where you can pick up I-90 again.  The drive takes around 1.5 – 2 hours or so each direction, but boy is it worth it!  

This part of the country is, truly, God’s Country.  I love South Dakota, but the Wyoming countryside brings with it a new definition of wild and wonderful.  It’s so incredibly rugged (as is the weather!) and you’ll notice the change immediately after crossing the state line.  The red rocks form a distinct backdrop as they stand out in direct contrast to the dun-colored prairie.

Take the time to visit the Wyoming Black Hills, you’ll be glad you did! 

A dirt road skirts a brown-grass meadow. A bare, rocky mountain rises from the prairie in the far background.
We even got a nice view of Bear Butte on the way home!
What is your favorite legend for the creation of this unique monolith?  Let me know in the comments! 

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Conquer Lengthy Trails in Small Portions

In this post, I discuss how to build your self-confidence by “connecting the dots” and finishing portions of trails you haven’t conquered in the past.

 

Today I’m going to discuss the incredible feeling of accomplishment that comes from completing a lengthy trail in small, manageable portions, regardless of how many tries, trips, or years it takes to achieve that goal. 😁  Below I outline several different trails we’ve done sections of in the past and have finally “connected-the-dots” on.

Willow Creek/Rushmore Trail (Trail #5)

View through the woods of pine trees and tree-covered mountains in the background

 We completed the Willow Creek/Rushmore trail (Trail #5,) all the way to where it meets up with the Harney Trail {Trail #9, the hard way up Black Elk (formerly Harney) Peak}.  

This is really just a connector trail and not that big of a deal (though it’s a nice trek with lovely views).  It’s just such an accomplishment when you complete these various routes.  

The Willow Creek/Rushmore Trail was one I’ve been wanting to do for years.  Every time we’ve hiked the difficult Harney Trail (Trail #9), we’ve always used the Willow Creek turn-off as a bit of a landmark to watch for.  So, to finally connect the two was such a delight! 

This accomplishment was especially exhilarating as it was already getting snowy up that way and some of the knee-deep snow was a challenge to hike through–we hadn’t taken snowshoes that day as the lower elevations didn’t have any snow and we didn’t know how much we’d be encountering.

Eagle Cliff Trails in the Black Hills

After numerous tries throughout multiple seasons, we finally completed several sections of various trails in the Eagle Cliff area. 

We’ve enjoyed parts of these trails in previous years–sometimes skiing, sometimes snowshoeing, sometimes mountain biking–but we’ve never fully connected them all.  In the past, we failed to complete the entire loop as we’ve always turned around due to being tired, being cold, or losing the trail.**

This time, however, we started with the Hamburger Snowshoe Route (who comes up with these names?! 😝); took that to Lily Park Trailhead; then continued on to the Holey Rock Trail.  We then looped back to the Bratwurst Ski Trail and brought that all the way back to our starting point–not to worry, we stayed off the ski trails. 😇 (Another group had, kindly, already blazed a snowshoe trail alongside the main road that we were able to follow. 😁)

**As much as we love the Eagle Cliff area, we’ve frequently lost our trail up there.  This has occurred both in the summer and the winter months and has actually been worse in the summer (the tall grasses don’t do much to suggest a trail.  At least in the winter, there are, oftentimes, other tracks to follow!)  Fortunately, we’ve never gotten lost to the point of being in trouble, we were always able to retrace our steps and find our way back.  Sometimes too, we’ve been able to spot the valley we were seeking from a ways off and reach it via off-trail routes.  

I do believe some of this was due to poor signage, the old maps were difficult to read and often sun-faded, or they were an inaccurate match with the current trails that year.  The new ones seem far more clear.  The trail blazes on the trees also seem to be closer together and better-marked now.  It could also be that we’re finally getting comfortable with the area as we’ve completed so many of the trails.  

Related posts:  Cross-Country Skiing at Big Hill, Spearfish, SD; Winter Activities at Eagle Cliff

To Conclude

The point to discussing all this is that, if there is a difficult or lengthy trail (or set of trails) you’re interested in, but they seem too challenging or long for you to accomplish in one sitting, complete them in sections!  It still counts as mastering the entire monster, even if you don’t do it all in one try!
Start from one end and try to make it halfway.  Then, on another occasion, start from the other end and make it halfway again.  You just finished the entire thing, even if you only ever did half a section at a time!  

I have a few other, personal examples of this in relation to local trails.  The Trekkers are aiming to hike the entire, 111-mile-long, Centennial Trail that traverses the length of the Black Hills.  We also want to bike the entirety of the Mikelson Trail, the 109-mile-long, graded, gravel path that spans the Hills, from north to south.  It follows an old railroad grade, leftover from the Gold Rush days of yesteryear.   It’s taken us more than a decade, but so far we’ve completed over half of the Centennial Trail and almost the same amount for the Mikelson.  

With routes that are quite lengthy, numerous trailheads often split them up into more manageable sections.  Completing one several-mile section every few months is far simpler than attempting an entire 25-mile trail all at once.  

We’ve even split up single sections before.  There is a 14-mile portion of the Mikelson trail that we’ve just never been able to finish all at once.  We HAVE completed it using the “halfway method” mentioned above, starting from each direction, though.  

This technique is also a good way to keep your spirits and enthusiasm up.  It’s much easier to stay motivated if you’re not trying to psych yourself up for a crazy excursion, but instead, a fun, shorter, one-day outing.  

With this post, I want to stress that you don’t have to be a marathon recreator.  It’s perfectly reasonable to be more of a “sprinter”, who feels a five-mile outing is a perfectly acceptable definition of a “full day”.  When you’re out on the trail you aren’t competing with anyone or anything else (with the exception of Mother Nature, of course).  Your only rival is yourself. So, don’t compare yourself to others.  The only thing that matters is that you’re improving your skills, your strength, and your health–both mental and physical–along with it.  

The other caveat is, of course, that you’re having fun!  As long as you’re getting out, connecting with the natural world, working off the steam of any built-up, negative energy, and you’re accomplishing the goals you have set for yourself, that’s the only thing that’s really important.  

You’ll find achieving goals is also quite the confidence booster, as you’re pushing yourself and meeting challenges. (If you are the marathoner-type person who can go out and accomplish 20 miles in one sitting, mad points to you too! 😉)

So, what are you waiting for?  Get out there and accomplish some goals and in the process, boost your confidence by finishing​ what you start!   

Have you conquered lengthy trails in small sections?  Tell me about it in the comments!

 

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Hiking the Robber’s Roost Trail, Custer State Park

In this post, I review two adventures where we learned the value in seeking out the “boring” locales, even on “less-than-ideal” days.

 

Author’s Note: The Trekkers originally hiked the Robber’s Roost Trail in Custer State Park on a foggy, mild, January day.  Many of the pictures below are from that trip.  We have since returned in warmer weather and found it to be equally enjoyable so I’ve added a few more pictures! 

Is it cold out, or windy, or really hot, or raining…then it’s not a good day to spend outside, right?…or is it?

The Robber’s Roost Trail, in Custer State Park, can be enjoyed in almost ANY weather!

One thing anyone who lives near mountainous terrain can tell you is the weather can change at a moment’s notice–which can be both good and bad–and it can vary greatly between nearby locations.  The Trekkers have experienced this frequently. 

One particular January day our local area was socked in with heavy, freezing fog.  It was a damp, 30ish-degrees so it wasn’t exactly ideal for being out (though the hoarfrost on the trees was beautiful!)  

Previous experience has shown us how variable our local weather can be, dependent on terrain.  Due to this, we knew the weather in the Black Hills could be far different than what we were currently experiencing in town (being married to a meteorologist who can look up conditions in certain areas helps too 😉).  So, we decided to try out the Robber’s Roost Trail in Custer State Park.  We knew, at the worst, we would be able to enjoy a pretty drive and could get some nice hiking in, while at the best the weather could be FAR different as we climbed in elevation.  Boy, was it!

A Foggy Drive through Custer State Park

As we headed for the park, Mr. Trekker made the prediction that we’d emerge from the fog shortly after passing the entrance sign (where the road begins to gain in elevation)…he was right on the money! (I’m gonna channel Johnny Depp from Pirates of the Caribbean and state, “There’ll be no living with him now.” 😝)  

As we headed toward our trailhead, we made several stops for photo opportunities of the gorgeous hoarfrost the freezing fog had left behind.  I can’t quite explain why, but that natural occurrence utterly fascinates me.  The way the frozen crystals cling to the local flora can cause a smooth piece of bark to look almost furry.  It reminds me of the tiny hairs on a spider’s legs.  

Close-up view of bare tree branches that are covered in frosty needles of ice
Isn’t this incredible?

Close-up view of a dirt path that runs through a brown-grass meadow with frost covering the individual grass stems. Pine trees appear through fog in the background.

Close-up view of tiny pine trees in a brown-grass meadow with frost covering the individual grass stems. Pine trees appear through fog in the background.

Hiking the Robber’s Roost Trail

When we arrived at our trailhead, the sun was shining brightly, and continued to do so…for the remainder of the afternoon!  We had many opportunities to view the fog bank below us, in the lower elevations, but it never reached our altitude until the very end of our trek.  By then, we had returned to the car and were wandering about, seeking out prime picture opportunities.  😁

A dirt path runs through a brown-grass meadow with pine tree-covered hillsides in the background. Fog rises over the trees and hills in the far background, all under a clear, blue sky.
The fog is coming!

A brown-grass meadow with pine tree-covered hillsides in the background. Fog rises over the trees and hills in the far background, all under a clear, blue sky.

A single, pine tree sits on a brown-grass hill with smoke rising over the pine trees in the valley behind, all under a clear, blue sky.
It was incredible, watching the fog slowly rise from the lower elevations.

A brown-grass meadow with pine tree-covered hillsides in the background. Fog rises over the trees and hills in the far background, all under a clear, blue sky with a foggy sun shining through.

The trail isn’t anything exciting, it’s just an old fire road that winds through prairie land, around and over hills throughout the park, but we had a great time!  

The scenery used to be more picturesque, but after the large, Legion Lake Fire that swept through this area in December 2017, this portion of the park now consists, mainly, of a burn scar.  For this reason, be aware, that in the warmer months, there is very little shade.  You should be prepared for hot conditions.   

If you’re looking for some additional fun activities to check out in Custer State Park, click here!

Where is the Robber’s Roost Trailhead?

The trailhead is located in the southern portion of Custer State Park, off of Oak Draw Road (just to the east of the Prairie Trail trailhead).  You can reach that road from the southern arm of the Wildlife Loop Road (Route 16A).  

The hike just follows an old, forest road, out-and-back, though it can be combined with other old roads, in the local area.  These would make for a great hike, horseback, or mountain bike ride. (We’re planning to try this route on our bikes soon!) 

A dog looks down a brown-grass hillside over an expanse of other hills in the distance, all covered by trees that appear to have been burnt.
Puppers enjoying the hike!
A dirt lane traverses a brown-grass hillside with a lone, pine tree on it's side and tree-covered hills in the background--some of the trees appear burnt.
You can see the burn scar in the distance

Below is a short video I took, at the end of the hike, of the coyotes’ haunting song that seemed to welcome the fog as it silently slipped back up the mountainside…(turn the sound up for this one!):

Below are a few more pictures of our trek.  Thanks, as usual, to Mr. Trekker, for several of the pictures!

Picture looks black & white. Leafless trees and a milky sun appear through the fog

The sun shines through whispy fog as it rises above hills
To me, this picture feels otherworldly, like smoke rising from a scorched landscape (it is just fog).
A fog bow forms over a fog-covered trees under a clear, blue sky
Fogbow!
2 hiking boots covered in mud on the ground
Did I mention this trail can get a “bit” muddy? 😳😁

In Conclusion

Don’t be afraid to seek out the “boring” or “go-nowhere” treks, they can sometimes offer some surprises of their own.  We enjoyed a great–albeit INCREDIBLY muddy–hike (basically in shirt sleeves)…in mid-January…in SOUTH DAKOTA!  Whereas, if we had stayed at home, we may have felt depressed by the cold, damp, foggy day.  So don’t be afraid to Get Out While the Gettin’s…Bad!

Have you had a positive experience where you ventured outdoors when the weather was less than perfect?  Tell me about it in the comments!

 

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Hike the Sunday Gulch Trail in Custer State Park

In this post, I review the Sunday Gulch Trail, in Custer State Park, near Sylvan Lake.

 

As part of the incredible trail system offered by Custer State Park, the Sunday Gulch Trail is a must-hike!  You will find the trailhead located behind the large rocks at the back of Sylvan Lake,  off the Sylvan Lake Shore Trail.  

Note:  this trail is closed in the winter months due to ice buildup from the nearby creek.  

Hiking the Sunday Gulch Trail

This loop trail is around three miles long and can be completed in either direction. 

I suggest taking the right fork at the trailhead.  This way, you’ll complete the most difficult portion of the hike first, and you’ll be doing it heading downhill.  You will still end your trek with an uphill climb, but it will be far less strenuous than the alternate option. 

Traveling this direction, the early portion of the trail is comprised of steps and large boulders that must be navigated—there is a handrail—as you make your way down the ravine.  Once you reach the bottom, the path is relatively easy and flat while you traverse a canyon; until the final climb back to Sylvan Lake at the top.

In the hotter months, be prepared for a hot hike!  Due to the gulch-like nature of the terrain, cool summer breezes often miss this area. Fortunately, the surrounding foliage provides significant shade opportunities (except when the sun is high, in the middle of the day).  

As you continue down the canyon, your trek will eventually begin to wind uphill when you commence the final, LONG ascent back to the lake.  The path is well-trodden and fairly smooth/free of debris, but it’s a long hill back to Sylvan Lake.  You will hear more road noise on this portion of the trail as it parallels Route 87.  

Pine trees with rock formations rising behind them
A view of the surrounding peaks from the top/end of the trail

Things you will see on the Sunday Gulch Trail

The trail is beautiful.  As you descend into the ravine, granite cliffs tower far above you on both sides, while a bubbling brook accompanies you the entire way.  

Once you reach the bottom of the gully, continue following the creek as it winds its way through the canyon.  This area is very peaceful as there is little road noise–the only main route, nearby, is Route 87, and that snakes along the edge of the ridge far above you.    

Rear view of a woman climbing down rocks while holding onto a metal railing
The Tranquil Trekker, navigating the steep, boulder section of the trail, through the ravine

Use caution when the path is wet, due to rain or snowmelt, as the creek often gushes across it when the water level is high.  Even in late spring, be prepared for the possibility of ice where the route traverses the deep ravine, as it doesn’t get sufficient sunlight throughout much of the day.

Traction devices, such as Yaktrax, are highly recommended unless you are hiking this trail at the height of summer. (Click here for more information on these awesome traction devices!)      

This trek can be managed by smaller children and pets, but they may require assistance with the really, rocky portions of the trail. 

As it combines bouldering with a relaxing jaunt through the forest, this fun hike contains a wide selection of scenery and is a must-see for those wanting a bit more adventure.  If you’re looking for a challenging and fun hiking trail on your visit to Custer State Park, check out the Sunday Gulch Trail near Sylvan Lake!  

Have you hiked this awesome trail?  Tell me about your experience in the comments!

 

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